Lexus RX 300

avery1 · March 2004

I received a "valet" key with my '99. But not sure how they duplicate the chip in the key.

For the '99 changer I got the Pioneer JD-T612. I think it was around $24 but that was a couple of years ago.

shoes4industry · March 2004

Thanks, I'll look for the cartridge. Does anyone know how much the dealers charge for an extra key (valet or otherwise)?

mchen70 · March 2004

I believe that Avery is right about the model number for the CD cartrige. When I was looking for a cartidge, I found the model on Etronics.com and it was about $19 or so. The system says Lexus inside the car, but if you were to open the dash and look at the unit itself, it would say Pioneer. I ended up going to irontoad.com and found the original Lexus cartridge for $24, so you may want to check and weigh both sites. I found an extra $5 to have 'LEXUS' on the cartridge was worth it, but I'm just goofy when it comes to things like that.

An extra key (not valet), runs about $40, I heard. They have to order the key because of the chip inside.

pschiffe · March 2004

I believe dealers charge around $300 + programming for additional genuine Lexus keys. Some locksmiths can duplicate and program aftermarket keys which include the transponder chip to start the vehicle. These won't have the lock, un-lock or panic buttons however. Street price should be around $50.00.

Pete

mnf · March 2004

Site to order parts try irontoad.com great site and you should be able to find what you are looking for...

jrdowney · March 2004

e-bay is also a decent place to find RX items. I've seen 4 Al wheels go for just a couple of hundred dollars. I bought an extra set of floor mats there and have seen the CD cartridges frequently for very little money.

chile96 · March 2004

To start with, I'm helping my clueless(they admit they are helpless when it comes to cars and pricing - usually pay sticker!) neighbors who want a 2003 RX300 with 10K or less on the clock. Since I am a car nut and buy regularly, they turned to me for help & guidance. They wanted to go out and buy the first one they could see on Saturday but I had to calm them down and told them I needed to research first.
So here I am. I looked but there is not a "What did you pay?" topic for this vehicle so I was wondering if anybody can direct me on where I can begin my research for this car, err I mean SUV?

Thanks for any help
fo

hcu87 · March 2004

OK, I've been trying to find out where the air filter is in my 01 RX300 with no luck. Someone indicated that it was something that could be changed fairly easily and didn't require the dealer do it. Could someone please tell me exactly where it is and how I remove it? Also, is it better/cheaper to buy a new one or gently wash the existing one? Lastly, what's a good recommendation for cleaning/replacing them?

Thanks.

jiamin · March 2004

I assume you mean the in-cabin ACC filter. Open the glove box, a piece that is part of the glove box inner wall can be taken off. Kind of flex so it won't break easily. Then look in horizontally there is a cover/lid to be taken off horizontally towards you. Then the filer is exposed and take it horizontally out for replacement.

I washed it but I could only get the big particles out. The whole filter is still diry and gray colored. I ordered filter from greatauto parts.com (maybe not exactly the link). Under $20.

wwest · March 2004

Secondary issue when buying a used vehicle.

dingo69 · March 2004

We have a 2002 Lexus that we bought as a CPO. When my wife put the key in the ignition today WITHOUT turning it, there was a buzzing/hissing noise coming from the front of the vehicle. Any idea what this might be?

hcu87 · March 2004

Welcome to RX ownership! Most of us get that same sound but it has not been found to affect performance or be a bad thing.

Check out the postings from the Jan. 31/Feb. 1st timeframe and you'll see what I'm talking about.

jrdowney · March 2004

For a vehicle as you describe I would think high 20's to low 30's depending on equipment. A fully loaded AWD, NAV, etc. should be in the low 30's. I would buy from a good private party if possible. That is what I did. A dealer will certainly charge you a good bit more.

wwest · March 2004

When buying a new vehicle you get to pick and chose from a "catalog", you can buy the exact vehicle you want.

When you buy a used vehicle you must first shop around in order to locate the vehicle YOU WANT to buy.

Personally I would find the vehicle I want to buy, color, AWD, etc, and then go to KBB to check if pricing is reasonable.

02electronblue · March 2004

Cost for a new key is $185 plus tax plus $25 programming. I know this from experience -- the plastic between the screw and the metal key broke, and my key finally fell apart. I was out of warranty by 10K, but I pleaded with Lexus and they funded one key and asked that I replace the other broken one. I taped the broken one and now have a new one.

I'm wondering if I should have used my Lexus out of warranty credit to get my newest problem fixed -- the "D"rive lightbulb on the dash has burned out. Is that more than $200 to fix?

pschiffe · March 2004

Mine has burned out for the third time. Hope Lexus has addressed the problem, they should probably utilize LEDs rather than incandescent indicator lamps. Meanwhile I'm giving up on trying to keep it lit! They did replace it under warranty twice, but the bulbs just don't seem to last.

Pete

mchen70 · March 2004

I had my 'D' light blow out around 55K miles and when I went for my 60K maintenance, I asked how much it would be to fix it and they said approx. $200. I'm not going to open up the dash to fix one light at $200. You might as well wait until one of the larger display lights blow out. I believe sooner or later, the larger lights will blow out so replace everything then because it will just be one charge for opening the dash. Also, if only your 'D' light is out, you know you're in 'D' when no lights are on. Your P, N, and R all work so you'll know which gear you're in.

mchen70 · March 2004

I do my own minor repairs and maintenance on my '99 RX and I've been able to make out where all the plugs are for fluids except the rear differential. Does anyone know where the plug is for the drain and filler (if separate) ?
Chilton doesn't make a manual for the RX, probably figuring that a typical RX owner wouldn't do their own maintenance. Lexus sells the manual, but at like $200+.

shoes4industry · March 2004

Is the $185 for the master/keyless entry one? The dealer I bought my 2000 RX from is paying for a new key, but I want to buy a spare, probably just a master without the buttons.

slandy · March 2004

It takes about 30 minutes to replace the bulb. It is very straight forward. You basically remove the cluster with teo screws, then pull it out, unplug the wires. Remove back of cluster and bingo! There are all the bulbs.

pschiffe · March 2004

It takes a contortionist to gain access to the dash light cluster in my opion. Not a DIY project, shop manual lists these steps for disassembly:

1. Remove combination meter cover
(a) Remove the 9 screws.
(b) Remove the combination meter cover.
2. Remove A/C and combination meter integrated ECU
(a) Remove the 4 screws.
(b) Remove the A/C and combination meter integrated ECU and 2 combination meter wire.
3. Remove combination meter circuit plate
(a) Remove the 5 screws and 6 connectors.
(b) Remove the combination meter circuit plate from the meter case.
4. Remove meter hood
5. Remove combination meter glass
6. Remove combination meter plate
Remove the screw and meter plate.
7. Remove speedometer assembly
(a) Remove the 2 screws and speedometer assembly.
(b) Remove the No. 4 combination meter plate.

Pete

stever · March 2004

Please, no links to other car forums (see Rules of the Road above).

thanks,

Steve, Host

mchen70 · March 2004

Thanks Slandy for your post on how to fix the drive lights. I just did it and it took about 30 min. from start to finish because I lost some retaining clips and had to fuss around to find them. I went to your other external posting before it got booted out of here and the directions were great. What I would like to note is that the two small panels (ignition key and power mirror/seat memory) must be removed before removing the black bezel or you'll end up breaking some clips on the bezel. I did just that and am not sure how it's going to affect the dash as in driving noise or squeeks. Anyway, will find out tomorrow. Also, the two small panels have metal retainer clips that pop right out when you remove the cover, so be careful and have a magnet ready to retrieve them. Thanks alot.

quazi · March 2004

I have the same problem. It burnt out around 45k, and I did not get it in during warranty. I now have 101k, and it is a small but irritating problem. Still, I would expect more of Lexus.

pschiffe · March 2004

Would member slandy or mchen70 please post on this forum, or eMail me, the detailed instructions for replacing the lamp that are on that "banned" external post? TIA

Pete

mikey00 · March 2004

Sorry for the confusion. I was the one who posted the link to the D light fix which in hindsight, I should not have done. It was removed and I was reminded it is against Edmunds membership agreement to post links to other automotive sites. Here are the directions:

"Follow these instructions and it should take you no longer than 15 minutes.

1. Remove 2 screws at the top of the black bezel around the cluster.
2. Pull trim piece straight out on the left of the steering wheel, the trim that houses the seat memory switch.
3. Pull trim piece straight out that is around the key.
4. Tilt steering wheel all the way down.
5. Remove black bezel around cluster, start from the bottom and pull out.
6. Remove 2 screws holding cluster in. They are on the side of the cluster.
7. Pull cluster out enough to get your hand behind and unplug the 3 connectors.
8. Remove cluster from car, you will kinda have to move it around a little bit to get it out, be careful not to scratch the lens.
9. Lay cluster face down on a soft towel.
10. You will see a white plastic cover on the back, remove the 8 gold colored screws holding this cover on.
11. Pull cover off, turn the cluster over and look where the gear selector letters are, on the oppisite side you will see 3 black and 2 green little cap looking things. These are the bulbs. Simply unscrew to remove. you may swap the park light bulb for the drive bulb. Or you can order one in advance.
12. Put all together in reverse order.
13. It sounds like alot of steps, but it is all very easy and understandable once you start."

I hope this provides the info you need without violating any rules.
Mike

jrdowney · March 2004

Could you provide the part number/name for this light?

Thanks

stever · March 2004

Thank you Mike!

Steve, Host

mchen70 · March 2004

Wow, this is a long subject. The instructions posted by Mikey are excellent. It's exactly what I did except that initially I couldn't get the two small panels off, so I tried pulling the black bezel/trim from the top and sliding it down, DON'T DO THAT, because you'll end up probably breaking some bottom clips on the trim. I did, but so far it hasn't had an bad affects like dash noise or anything. I can only speak for the '99 RX because that's what I have, those two trims (ignition and power mirror) do pull straight out, but they're held in by metal retaining clips that'll probably pop out, so get ready to have a telescoping magnetic pen ready. To remove the instrument panel, you have to remove THREE screws. Two on the bottom and one on top, dead center. They're the three black screws that are on white frames. As for removing the gold screws once you remove the panel, you won't have to if you're replacing the 'D' light. The D 2 1 bulbs are accessible once you turn the panel over. Just turn off and turn back on.
Now that I know what to do, it definitely would only take 15 min. or less. It took me 30 min. yesterday because I was fishing for the metal retainers.
Good luck.

pschiffe · March 2004

Many thanks to mikey00 and mchen70 for the clarification. Is D 2 1 as mentioned in the above post the part number for these bulbs? If so, is this a Lexus or lamp manufacturer's number? TIA

Pete

mikey00 · March 2004

D 2 1 is not a part number. It is the gear position you are in. I don't know of a source or part#, other than going to the dealer and asking for the bulb. Anyone else?
Mike

pschiffe · March 2004

Thanks again to mikey00 and mchen70. I did the procedure today, took me about 45 minutes. mchen70 is correct, there are three screws to remove the cluster, two on the bottom and one on the top. Another minor clarification, there are nine screws which must be taken out to remove the white plastic cover. Anyone attempting this might find a Phillips screw starter convenient for reassembly. What I found interesting, when I disassembled everything; was that the D lamp was missing! I later located it in the speedometer cavity of the dash. The bulb has sort of a mini-bayonet base and the Lexus tech must have failed to rotate it sufficiently when they last replaced it, and thus apparently just popped out. It looks much like a grain-of-wheat or MiniMaglite® bulb with a tiny plastic twist-lock base. The Toyota/Lexus P/N is 83119-24670, list is a usurious $5.36, and it appears to be a proprietary item. I rescind all my comments in post 8119 above, the shop manual made the procedure seem needlessly complex, Edmunds is the greatest.

Pete

mnf · March 2004

Ok On my wifes Lexus RX 300 2000 the antenna is stuck or something. When starting or stopping you can hear the motor running but it not. If i go back there and gently wiggle it it go down or up. Any thoughts before having the dealer look at it on next service... Thanks for the information you are about to please me with

avery1 · March 2004

Several months ago I had to have my antenna replaced on my '99. It was doing the same thing. I think it was $192. Unfortunately, I hear some grinding noise coming from the antenna again and I haven't had a chance to have it looked at. It is still working but I am concerned it may be going bad again.

mchen70 · March 2004

Just when you thought the dealers knew what they were doing... can't even install a light bulb right. Yes, there are several screws to remove to get the white cover off the instrument panel, but it isn't necessary if the light you're replacing is not P, N, or R.
As for antennas, I think most people when they wash their cars forget to clean their power antennas. The grit and dirt that builds up on the antenna while you're driving ends up getting lodged within the sections during constant use and probably ends up breaking the whole mechanism. I've always extend and cleaned off the antenna during a wash and with three cars going close to a combined 500K miles, I've never had an antenna problem.

pschiffe · March 2004

Car washes in this locale, and I presume elsewhere as well, request that you lower the power antenna. Any crud present on the dirty antenna will then make its way into the mechanism. With the antenna extended, apply a light coating of Teflon grease with your hand to all the sections and raise and lower it a couple times. I use Super Lube®, makes it work considerably smoother and quieter.

Pete

02electronblue · April 2004

Soon after complaining about my key, being the one responsible for all of the "D" light posts, and reading about mnf and avery1's antennas, my antenna has now quit. The motor kept going and made noise for a couple of tries. Now, no more noise, and the antenna is fixed in the up position. It's so ghettoish!

Maybe reading these posts gives my RX bad karma?

hpyu · April 2004

I have got my RX300 2002 for almost two years, and never tried to use PANIC button on my car key.
Yesterday, out of curiosity, tried and it did not sound anything. But the lock/unlock buttons working just fine.

When I have one door opened and press PANIC button,
it sound an alarming sound. So is this normal or not? I thought it should work even I am far away to my car, cuz that is exactly when I need the sound to sacre off people stalking me to my car.

Am I right?

mchen70 · April 2004

That's very interesting. The PANIC works with doors open or not. It's either a defective wire, or the CBEST was set that way.

I've never had to use mine in five years, so don't really know when you would use it exactly.

jodar96 · April 2004

Steve, I think I found the right person....... How do you tighten the P/S belt after you replace it? The Alt has a nice bolt that does the tightening. When I took the RF wheel off, and looked at the P/S pump, I see only one bolt in a sloted bracket, but how do I tighten the belt before tightening that bolt.

I don't understand why Toyota still uses yestertech for belts. Why don't they use belt tensioner? My 92 325i had two belt tensioners; one for of two belts, any more: one belt-one tensioner.

Thanks,
Joe

pschiffe · April 2004

How about an Instant Fan Belt Tightner from J.C. Whitney to tighten that power steering (or any other) belt:

JCWhitney.com

Pete

pkoj · April 2004

I have a Lexus 1999 RX300 74,00 miles with what seems to be an engine booming problem, while the car is idling and is in drive or reverse the car makes a horrible humming noise and excessive vibrating occurs. I have been trying to research this problem and haven't been able to find out if anything has been done about the problem. I haven't seen any recent messages on this subject. My car is now out of warranty and Lexus is saying this is a common defect with no fix. If anyone has any information on this subject I would truly appreciate any feedback. Thanks!

thickcommish · April 2004

I also have some engine noise on my 99'. Only 66k miles the dealer suggested changing spark plugs and the whole shabang 60k service. And its done. I only take my RX to the dealer for oil changes etc... but obviously they dont hear it. Its primarily when going uphill and when there is a little better than normal acceleration. Very disturbing, any advise anyone?? Also, does anyone know where you can get a replacement key housing?? Dealer quote: $179 for plastic.

wwest · April 2004

At those mileages it is not at all unusual for the honeycomb structure inside the catalytic convertic to start coming apart and then "chunks" will begin to partially block the exhaust outlet.

Sometimes resulting in a severe power loss but almost always resulting in a cherry red glowing converter after a long climb needing a little extra throttle.

slandy · April 2004

Lexus had a TSB out on 99 models for the a/c line rubbing against the body. The dealer replaced my a/c compressor 3 times thinking that was the problem. The Lexus came out with the fix about 6 monthes later. It kinda gives a booming, vibrating wierd sound. Call your dealer na dgive them yopur VIN and have them pull it up. I doubt it will cost much at all to fix.

pschiffe · April 2004

thickcommish can you be more explicit about what you mean by replacement key housing. Are you looking for a duplicate ignition key?

Pete

bis · April 2004

I have a 99 RX 300 Lexus that has run like a charm. It has 64,000 miles and is no longer on warranty. Recently the check engine light came on and I took it to my local foreign car repair shop. The diagnostic trouble code that came up was: PO171 System too lean. My mechanics could not find any problems so they reset the code and sent it home. Two months later now, the exact same thing happened and they once again reset the code. They suggested that I either ask other RX 300 owners for possible problem areas to be narrowed down and they can repair the problem in a more inexpensive way or that I take it to the Lexus dealer. They are trustworthy, so I am asking for your help. I have read all the emails to date here and see that some have needed a new front oxygen sensor. Does anyone have other suggestions or ideas on how I might be able to narrow this down further or know for sure what is needed? This is a V-6 engine automatic. Someone else mentioned a check engine light problem without that specific diagnostic code that needed a new charcoal cannister. Can anyone give me help on the PO171 System too lean on bank one diagnostic trouble code for my 99 RX 300? Thanks a lot! Bis

pschiffe · April 2004

Here are the trouble areas for Diagostic Trouble Code No. PO171 "System Too Lean":

• Air intake (hose loose)
• Fuel line pressure
• Injector blockage
• Heated oxygen sensor malfunction
• Mass air flow meter
• Engine coolant temp. sensor
• Gas leakage on exhaust system

The Repair Manual goes on to detail an inspection procedure (beginning on page DI-54) to isolate the problem. Sounds like a job for a Lexus or Toyota dealer who has access to the hand held tester or OBD II scan tool.

Pete

kwh · April 2004

I was one of the people who posted about the front oxygen sensor. The car has run perfect since I had the sensor replaced. Do you hear what I call "spark plug knock" that would happen when I climbed a hill in low gear? If so I think it may be the sensor. That was my clue sonething was wrong right before the CEL came on. There are some real expert people on this board that helped me save a lot of $$ on this repair. Good luck.

PS do not reset the CEL before going to the Toyota or Lexus dealer. I had to wait for it to come back on before they could tell what the problem was. The toyota dealer printout said the front oxygen sensor needed replacing. They reset the light & said to go to the Lexus dealer to see if they would fix it under warrenty.. Lexus said I would have to wait until the light cane back on so they could check it themselves. When the light came back on they got the same report as the Toyota dealer. Toyota dealer will charge you less if you trust them - they have done all work on my car except warrenty work.

02electronblue · April 2004

If thickcommish is having the same problem with his "key housing" that I had with my key, it's the black plastic cover. Mine broke on the back between the screw and the actual metal. All I needed was a new back. No can do -- they only sell a new key. The Lexus dealer wanted $185 plus tax plus $25 programming fee. They said this happens regularly. A few calls and pleading to 1-800-Lexus finally got me a new key. (I was just out of warranty).

Lexus RX 300

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