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Lexus RX 300

1154155157159160183

Comments

  • avery1avery1 Member Posts: 373
    I know that I had the check engine light come on when I didn't tighten the gas cap enough. I never got an error code readout but it did last for a few days before it reset. Maybe there is a problem with the gas cap. I was also the one who had the charcoal cannister replaced. They never told me what the code was that time.
  • maxhonda99maxhonda99 Member Posts: 1,289
    bis,

    You have a 6yr/70K powertrain warranty which covers engine/transmission components. I would think a check engine light would be related to engine or engine electronics.
  • thickcommishthickcommish Member Posts: 15
    Yes, I was meaning the black plastic housing and screw. The metal key itself is in ok condition but the plastic is very "cheap". Thanks for the input!!
  • kwhkwh Member Posts: 68
    Thnaks for the reminder about the 6yr/70K, max. Always good to know there is still some warranty left after the bumper to bumper runs out. Lexus repairs can be really expensive so I hope everything holds up as I am at the 60,000 point (2000 RX). The service manager replaced the front oxygen sensor at 52,000 miles under the emissions warranty, I paid nothing for the repair. Actually, I might not have asked for the repair under warranty unless mikey & some others on this board stated that repair should be covered under the emissions system warranty and the service dept. agreed.
  • freebirdfreebird Member Posts: 77
    My bet would be a cracked hose or clogged/dirty MAF (mass air flow) sensor. You can pull the MAF sensor and clean it with some carb cleaner. It could be as simple as a oil dipstick that is not sealing well. Somehow more air is getting into the intake system to lean the fuel mixture too low - low enough that the computer can't compensate for it.

    Do you have Autozone in your area? There well may be a second code that the dealer did not give you. Autozone will scan it for free.
  • markmark Member Posts: 16
    I wonder if anyone has replaced their RX300 brake pads with the newer ceramic based pads and, if so, how they compare to OEM's. Also If anyone has done their own brakes on an RX, would you let me know how the front rotors are removed. Are there just 2 screwws holding them on or are there wheel bearings that need removal.

    Mark

    BTW I am aware of the TSB re: squealing brakes. My front rotor(s) are warped and Lexus tells me that has nothing to do with the (defective?) pads.
  • ke2feke2fe Member Posts: 37
    Hi Mark,

    I got about 90k from my original pads. I replaced them with ceramic and now have 45 k on them. I cannot see any difference. With regard to removing the rotors. Remove the the pads. Remove the calipers. (usually 2 bolts) Suspend the caliper via a wire attached to any point under the car near the wheel. You don't want to put any stress on the brake hose. The rotor has 2 screws which keep the rotor in place on the hub. Remove these screws and pull the rotor off the studs. If the rotor does not move, tap it lightly with a mallot to break the rust. There is not bearing to deal with when doing this job.

    Bob W
  • gambiamangambiaman Member Posts: 131
    The power antenna was replaced in my RX about a year ago. It is now starting to make noises again. I felt it when it was up and it was very dry. Does anyone have any suggestions for a lubricant? I asked the Toyota dealer when I was there a week ago and they suggested "Teflon Lubricant" but when I checked at Auto Zone they had none so I don't even really know if such a thing exists.
    Thanks
  • pschiffepschiffe Member Posts: 373
    I use Super Lube® multi-purpose grease with Teflon®. Part No. 21030 85g (3 oz.) tube, retails for about $3.99.

    Synco Chemical Corp.

    Pete
  • rlui1rlui1 Member Posts: 93
    I was curious...is it bad to use WD-40?
  • gambiamangambiaman Member Posts: 131
    Suggestions on where to buy this. I tried Auto Zone and they had no teflon lube.
    Thanks
  • pschiffepschiffe Member Posts: 373
    Here's one I found on Google™:

    ShipStore.com

    Pete
  • galogvigalogvi Member Posts: 41
    Not sure if it's recommended, but Liquid Wrench Super Lubricant with Teflon is sold at The Home Depot for $2.99.
  • jiaminjiamin Member Posts: 556
    Although not often, I've been lubricating all my car antennae with WD-40. No problem so far.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    If you really want to go to this kind of trouble then do it correctly. Remove the antenna entirely and lube the nylon gear "tail" and the drive motor nylon gears in the gearbox.

    Otherwise that's where your first antenna failure will occur, the "geared" nylon "tail".

    Insofar as the telescoping antenna elements themselves it is more than sufficient to wipe them clean occassionally. Adding lube to those simply increases the rate of dirt accumulation.
  • brs1brs1 Member Posts: 17
    Hi,
    I have recently noticed a strange problem(?) in my '01 RX300. It is easy to notice in the garage with the windows down. When I insert the ignition key (just insert, not turning it), I hear a noise coming out from around radiator/A/C area. The noise is similar to a noise from a whining water pipes (usually caused by uneven pressure in the pipes.) Is this normal? If not, what could it be?
    Thanks a lot,
    brs1.
  • jiaminjiamin Member Posts: 556
    I am not sure what that noise mean, but am sure it is very normal. It'll last like one minute or so then dispear. If the key is pulled out and inserted in again, it'll do the same again. To me it's like something is initiating...
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    starts up as key is slid into lock.
  • pdswaypdsway Member Posts: 14
    Hi...

      I got my first CEL around 84k miles (2000 RX300). Apparently an "ignition coil" failed causing cylinder 2 to misfire (car ran rough, wouldnt shift). "Cylinder coil" replaced. Covered under my Platinum warranty btw.

      I also had my antenna fail and replaced under warranty. I noticed that 2001+ models have antennae's that stay up while the car is on to alleviate all the up n down's I suppose. I did not examine my failed antenna, but like the previous poster, I believe the problem is internal where the gears are, so lubricating the outside wont help.

      You can get Teflon lubricant from Radio Shack. Its a clear liquid tube with a pen like clip.

      I had my oem brakes done around 80k. Replaced with oem Toyota pads, no problems.

    PDS
  • bentwrenchbentwrench Member Posts: 27
    It has been my experience on antennas which retract automatically that although the visible failure is in the plastic gear, the root cause of the failure is over stress of this gear due to friction in the antenna rubbing parts which can be minimized with lubrication. Therefore, continue lubricating.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    If you can find a lubricant that doesn't attract dirt, dust, and other small particles of debris, then yes, lubricate the hell out of those telescoping antenna elements.

    Otherwise simply wipe them clean of any dirt, dust and debris each time you wash the car.
  • gambiamangambiaman Member Posts: 131
    Guess I should have asked this question earlier. When I turned the RX off today the antenna stuck up about 6". I raised it again and wiped it with a WD40 type product but one with Teflon in it. It then retracted, although very noisily. Sounds like something inside it was failing, gears maybe? Lexus replaced the thing last May so maybe it is under a one-year warranty. The first one lasted 2 1/2 years. I would think that the nylon gears in the gearbox are not accessible for lubricant unless the gearbox is disassembled which may or may not be possible. Sometimes things like that are not made for servicing.
  • jodar96jodar96 Member Posts: 400
    Our 2001 RX Antenna has started making the same noise. When everyone started putting the antenna in rear glass, I don't understand why in 99, Lexus made the electric Antenna. A lot of car companies gave up on that great idea long time ago.

    on my 96 Camry, I have been wiping the antenna and put silicone on it for year, and that has saved that antenna.
  • jiaminjiamin Member Posts: 556
    Even my 94 Altima's retractable antenna never had any problem. Once in a long time I just wipe it clean and apply WD-40 on it. I never did anything special to it. Don't know why quite a few people have problems.
  • kwhkwh Member Posts: 68
    Any suggestions anyone would like to make about the 60,000 mile check that I am having done at a Toyota dealer at the end of May? I will have the recommended stuff in the manual done, but wondered if any of you knew of some preventive things that you would have done, or some things you would make sure were checked at this point.
    Thanks for your suggetsions.

    Note:
    *D light is out - I don't care
    *Antenna grinds during the retraction of the last few inches - must have been poor enginnering since many experience this - still working ok so I'll jsut let this go now
    *loud squeal first startup in the morning - thinking it is just a loose belt since I don't ever hear it again even after car sits for 8 hours - I'm going to ask them to check belts
  • markmark Member Posts: 16
    Thanks for the info Bob, that's exactly what I needed.

    Mark
    (WB2EQE)
  • ruskiruski Member Posts: 1,566
    Tirerack shows pretty good reviews for these Yokohama tires and they are a bit less expensive than OEM Duelers, expecially if ordered from Discount Tire Direct with free shipping.

    Does anyone here have any experience with these tires?

    Also I need to only replace two tires at this point. The Geolandars come with outlined white letters. Am I going to look really dumb driving around like that?
  • ruskiruski Member Posts: 1,566
    has anyone successfully been able to program a new remote?

    I got a new blank key from eBay. I am first trying to program the remote. I insert/pull out the master key. Then lock/unlock doors 5 times. Then shut/open the door. Then lock/unlock the doors 5 times again. Then put the key into on position then into off position and pull it out. My RX responds to all that by locking/unlocking all doors once. So far so good. But then when I press and hold the lock and unlock buttons on the remote for a few seconds, nothing happens (the remote's battery is OK as I see a little red light working)
  • pschiffepschiffe Member Posts: 373
    I believe you missed steps 8 and 9.

    1. Open vehicle's driver side door (leave open).
    2. Using the electronic lock/unlock button found on the door's armrest, cycle through lock/unlock five times (lock-unlock,lock-unlock,lock-unlock,lock-unlock,lock-unlock).
    3. Close door.
    4. Open door.
    5. Repeat step 2 - cycle through lock/unlock using electronic lock button on the door's armrest five times (do not manually lift/depress the lock button).
    6. Insert the new key into the ignition and turn to the ON position.
    7. Turn key to the OFF position and remove.
    8. Simultaneously depress and hold the remote's PANIC and UNLOCK buttons. During this time the vehicle's security module is performing the program function. The security mode LED will flash during this process.
    9. A beep or chime signals the end of the program function. Release the PANIC and UNLOCK buttons. The door lock and panic functions can now be controlled via the new remote key.

    Pete
  • ruskiruski Member Posts: 1,566
    programming has finally worked.

    Now I need to find a locksmith that could duplicate the funky grooves on the key.
  • pschiffepschiffe Member Posts: 373
    ruski,
    If you wish, contact me via eMail and I can give you the name of a locksmith in Penza, Russia who may be able to help "duplicate the funky grooves".

    Pete
  • ruskiruski Member Posts: 1,566
    Penza is a few thousand miles away from Fort Lauderdale. I am not sure I will want to send that key all the way to Penza and then wait for it to be shipped back, and it could get lost in mail. Plus I don't have any vodka left to pay the guy. :)
  • pschiffepschiffe Member Posts: 373
    Sorry, I mistakenly presumed you are located in Russia. I could give you a couple names in Ft. Lauderdale, but you could find them faster in the Yellow Pages.

    Pete
  • ke2feke2fe Member Posts: 37
    My 2000 rx300 with 130k miles began acting strange. The abs would activate every time I stopped. The car's velocity did not matter and the wheels were neither locked or the tires skidding. I was "forced" to bring it to my local dealer. They suggested a complete brake job. (rotors and brake pads). Had no effect on the problem. After a day of them trying to find the cause of the abs activating, they did find it. It seems that the sensor ring which is part of the axle had lost some of its "teeth" This ring is an integral part of the axle and cannot be replaced as a part. This sensor ring goes past an electronic sensor that determines the turning velocity of the wheel. The entire axle has to be replaced at a cost of $850 for the part and $450 for the labor. Other cars have this sensor ring pressed on the axle similar to a bearing, but not Lexus. I told them to forget it! When I got the car back, I pulled the two circuit breakers that control the abs out of the engine mounted fuse box. That solved the problem of the abs activating at the wrong times. Now I have this expensive car that does not have abs. What the heck, the abs would kick in legitimately maybe once or twice during the icy roads found in winter.

    It would be nice if Lexus would be informed about this and perhaps change their axle to one where this sensor ring can be replaced easily. Do you know who and how to contact Lexus?

    Bob W (ke2fe)
  • pschiffepschiffe Member Posts: 373
    Bob,
    Go to Lexus Owner Anchor from the link. You need to register using your VIN if you haven't already. Click on "Quick Links", then "Contact Lexus".

    Lexus

    Pete
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Why not bridge the opposite working sensor into the circuit for the "non-functional" sensor? The ABS will never engage if ONLY the wheel with the non-working sensor tends to lockup but it will still work for the other three wheels.

    You'll end up with a three channel system, but most early ABS only had three channels anyway.
  • ke2feke2fe Member Posts: 37
    Dear Wwest,

    Can you describe the details for performing this bridge? (after I replace the circuit breakers)

    Thank you,

    Bob W (ke2fe)
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Disconnect the non-functional sensor and "dead-head" it, connect in its place a shielded pair and run it over to the opposite sensor and connect it in parallel.
  • wayne1wayne1 Member Posts: 6
    Has anyone replaced a battery on a 99 or 00 Lexus? If so,did you loose the function of the radio,and did you have the radio code to get it to work? I am concerned about this because my wife's 99 may need a battery this coming winter and would like to know if the battery replacement is like any other car or is there a procedure to it. I am also going to buy one of those battery backup devices,a 9 volt battery and cigar lighter insert that goes to the cigar lighter socket. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
    Wayne
  • johngreisjohngreis Member Posts: 70
    My understanding of that "backup battery" device is to prevent exactly what your afraid of. Loosing all your settings. If you have one, I'd take it with me and plug her in when you leave it for the battery replacement.

    But, it seems to me that any garage with halfway decent servicemen would do this on their own when replacing a battery. But, then some of these garages use the equivalent of burger flippers to do some of their service.

    Good luck.
  • pschiffepschiffe Member Posts: 373
    If I recall correctly, you will loose the radio presets and digital clock if the battery is disconnected. These are easily re-programmed using the procedure found in the owner's manual.

    Pete
  • avery1avery1 Member Posts: 373
    I just replaced my battery in a '99. Lost the time but radio presets stayed programmed. Battery was disconnected 10 minutes or so.
  • bobfloydbobfloyd Member Posts: 32
    What can you tell us about the brand, size and other specs of your new battery. Does it fit properly in the rack?
  • avery1avery1 Member Posts: 373
    I bought it at Costco. It is a little smaller around and a little taller than the Toyota battery but everything worked out ok witht he Lexus bracket holding it tight.
  • erik_herik_h Member Posts: 77
    I got the high-end die-hard for my '99 and it fits fine. I knew it was time for a new battery when I started the vehicle and the time was reset. It didn't have enough juice to turn the engine and keep time.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    This procedure is something of a nuisance but with fuel prices rising.....

    I have already had my dealer disable the A/C system using C-best options (two) in "normal", automatic mode, and in defrost/defog/demist mode. Below 65F OAT A/C is a total waste of fuel as it only serves to dehumidify the incoming airflow and during the summer that capability is useless.

    I am also in the process of installed an electrically, 12 volt, operated water flow control valve so that NO hot water flows to the climate control heat exchanger during cooling mode. Eliminating even the radiant heating effects within the A/C plenum area.

    The way our systems work once the cabin has reached the temperature setpoint is that the incoming airflow is first chilled to as low as 34F and then via the reheat/remix servomotor and vane airflow routing system some of the airflow is reheated and then both portions are remixed such that the airflow reaching your body surfaces is not so cool as to be discomforting.

    If you avoid the reheat/remix cycle then the A/C system becomes dramatically more efficient. Here is the way that can be done.

    Turn the system to max cold, put the system in recirculate mode, and now use the blower speed manually to regulate your comfort level. You can also alleviate some of the dash outlet airflow by selecting combined floor and dash outlets. I would not recommend floor only in that the intake airflow for recirulate mode is too near the floor/footwell outlets.

    Sometimes when the OAT is below 65F but the interior has been warmed by the sun I use the A/C to first cool the car down and then switch it off.

    I NEVER use the A/C in defrost/defog/demist mode, especially in the wintertime as that will always lead to follow-on windshield fogging due to the design flaw of the Lexus climate control system. Besides which, although Lexus relies totally and completely on the dehumidification capabilities of the A/C for defogging and/or preventing fogging o the windshield/windows, the A/C will be automatically shut down if/when the outside temperature declines below 35F.

    If your windshield begins to fog over then apply HEAT and then maintain the windshield surface temperature at an elevated level to prevent further instances of fogging.
  • peggyloupeggylou Member Posts: 40
    wwest
    doesn't just pressing the ac button so it is no longer lighted when in "auto" mode effectively do the same thing? I have been doing this since purchasing my Rx300 in Feb. With the way you have your c-best options set now, do you have to manually turn on your ac when in "auto" or does it still come on if OAT > 65?
    Peggy
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Now I don't have to remember each time I activate the auto function to reach over and turn the A/C off AGAIN!

    If I want to use the OEM factory shipped mode all I have to do is turn the A/C on one time. Turning it off one time is the same, it stays off, PERIOD, unless I trun it back on.

    Absent the 2nd C-best option change the A/C will always run in defrost/defog/demist mode but with no indication.
  • mmm1mmm1 Member Posts: 54
    Would appreciate comments from a few of you experts (Willard? et.al.). It's time for 60K mile check on my RX 300 which I will have local Toyota dealer perform. Other than changing oil and filter and air filter I question whether it is really necessary to replace brake fluid, coolant, differential oil and retorque drive shaft bolts. Not a $$ issue--just don't want to do it if it really isn't necessary. Any thoughts on this. Thanks.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    My 01 AWD RX300 now has 38k miles and has only had oil and oil/air/air/filters changed and has never been back to the shop, except for the above which was DIY.

    My 92 LS400 with 94k miles is the same story except I had to replace the driver's side rear oxygen sensor a few years ago and the factory anti-freeze was just drained and replaced within teh last year.

    Of course replacing brake pads and batteries is SOP.
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