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Comments
You have a 6yr/70K powertrain warranty which covers engine/transmission components. I would think a check engine light would be related to engine or engine electronics.
Do you have Autozone in your area? There well may be a second code that the dealer did not give you. Autozone will scan it for free.
Mark
BTW I am aware of the TSB re: squealing brakes. My front rotor(s) are warped and Lexus tells me that has nothing to do with the (defective?) pads.
I got about 90k from my original pads. I replaced them with ceramic and now have 45 k on them. I cannot see any difference. With regard to removing the rotors. Remove the the pads. Remove the calipers. (usually 2 bolts) Suspend the caliper via a wire attached to any point under the car near the wheel. You don't want to put any stress on the brake hose. The rotor has 2 screws which keep the rotor in place on the hub. Remove these screws and pull the rotor off the studs. If the rotor does not move, tap it lightly with a mallot to break the rust. There is not bearing to deal with when doing this job.
Bob W
Thanks
Synco Chemical Corp.
Pete
Thanks
ShipStore.com
Pete
Otherwise that's where your first antenna failure will occur, the "geared" nylon "tail".
Insofar as the telescoping antenna elements themselves it is more than sufficient to wipe them clean occassionally. Adding lube to those simply increases the rate of dirt accumulation.
I have recently noticed a strange problem(?) in my '01 RX300. It is easy to notice in the garage with the windows down. When I insert the ignition key (just insert, not turning it), I hear a noise coming out from around radiator/A/C area. The noise is similar to a noise from a whining water pipes (usually caused by uneven pressure in the pipes.) Is this normal? If not, what could it be?
Thanks a lot,
brs1.
I got my first CEL around 84k miles (2000 RX300). Apparently an "ignition coil" failed causing cylinder 2 to misfire (car ran rough, wouldnt shift). "Cylinder coil" replaced. Covered under my Platinum warranty btw.
I also had my antenna fail and replaced under warranty. I noticed that 2001+ models have antennae's that stay up while the car is on to alleviate all the up n down's I suppose. I did not examine my failed antenna, but like the previous poster, I believe the problem is internal where the gears are, so lubricating the outside wont help.
You can get Teflon lubricant from Radio Shack. Its a clear liquid tube with a pen like clip.
I had my oem brakes done around 80k. Replaced with oem Toyota pads, no problems.
PDS
Otherwise simply wipe them clean of any dirt, dust and debris each time you wash the car.
on my 96 Camry, I have been wiping the antenna and put silicone on it for year, and that has saved that antenna.
Thanks for your suggetsions.
Note:
*D light is out - I don't care
*Antenna grinds during the retraction of the last few inches - must have been poor enginnering since many experience this - still working ok so I'll jsut let this go now
*loud squeal first startup in the morning - thinking it is just a loose belt since I don't ever hear it again even after car sits for 8 hours - I'm going to ask them to check belts
Mark
(WB2EQE)
Does anyone here have any experience with these tires?
Also I need to only replace two tires at this point. The Geolandars come with outlined white letters. Am I going to look really dumb driving around like that?
I got a new blank key from eBay. I am first trying to program the remote. I insert/pull out the master key. Then lock/unlock doors 5 times. Then shut/open the door. Then lock/unlock the doors 5 times again. Then put the key into on position then into off position and pull it out. My RX responds to all that by locking/unlocking all doors once. So far so good. But then when I press and hold the lock and unlock buttons on the remote for a few seconds, nothing happens (the remote's battery is OK as I see a little red light working)
1. Open vehicle's driver side door (leave open).
2. Using the electronic lock/unlock button found on the door's armrest, cycle through lock/unlock five times (lock-unlock,lock-unlock,lock-unlock,lock-unlock,lock-unlock).
3. Close door.
4. Open door.
5. Repeat step 2 - cycle through lock/unlock using electronic lock button on the door's armrest five times (do not manually lift/depress the lock button).
6. Insert the new key into the ignition and turn to the ON position.
7. Turn key to the OFF position and remove.
8. Simultaneously depress and hold the remote's PANIC and UNLOCK buttons. During this time the vehicle's security module is performing the program function. The security mode LED will flash during this process.
9. A beep or chime signals the end of the program function. Release the PANIC and UNLOCK buttons. The door lock and panic functions can now be controlled via the new remote key.
Pete
Now I need to find a locksmith that could duplicate the funky grooves on the key.
If you wish, contact me via eMail and I can give you the name of a locksmith in Penza, Russia who may be able to help "duplicate the funky grooves".
Pete
Pete
It would be nice if Lexus would be informed about this and perhaps change their axle to one where this sensor ring can be replaced easily. Do you know who and how to contact Lexus?
Bob W (ke2fe)
Go to Lexus Owner Anchor from the link. You need to register using your VIN if you haven't already. Click on "Quick Links", then "Contact Lexus".
Lexus
Pete
You'll end up with a three channel system, but most early ABS only had three channels anyway.
Can you describe the details for performing this bridge? (after I replace the circuit breakers)
Thank you,
Bob W (ke2fe)
Wayne
But, it seems to me that any garage with halfway decent servicemen would do this on their own when replacing a battery. But, then some of these garages use the equivalent of burger flippers to do some of their service.
Good luck.
Pete
I have already had my dealer disable the A/C system using C-best options (two) in "normal", automatic mode, and in defrost/defog/demist mode. Below 65F OAT A/C is a total waste of fuel as it only serves to dehumidify the incoming airflow and during the summer that capability is useless.
I am also in the process of installed an electrically, 12 volt, operated water flow control valve so that NO hot water flows to the climate control heat exchanger during cooling mode. Eliminating even the radiant heating effects within the A/C plenum area.
The way our systems work once the cabin has reached the temperature setpoint is that the incoming airflow is first chilled to as low as 34F and then via the reheat/remix servomotor and vane airflow routing system some of the airflow is reheated and then both portions are remixed such that the airflow reaching your body surfaces is not so cool as to be discomforting.
If you avoid the reheat/remix cycle then the A/C system becomes dramatically more efficient. Here is the way that can be done.
Turn the system to max cold, put the system in recirculate mode, and now use the blower speed manually to regulate your comfort level. You can also alleviate some of the dash outlet airflow by selecting combined floor and dash outlets. I would not recommend floor only in that the intake airflow for recirulate mode is too near the floor/footwell outlets.
Sometimes when the OAT is below 65F but the interior has been warmed by the sun I use the A/C to first cool the car down and then switch it off.
I NEVER use the A/C in defrost/defog/demist mode, especially in the wintertime as that will always lead to follow-on windshield fogging due to the design flaw of the Lexus climate control system. Besides which, although Lexus relies totally and completely on the dehumidification capabilities of the A/C for defogging and/or preventing fogging o the windshield/windows, the A/C will be automatically shut down if/when the outside temperature declines below 35F.
If your windshield begins to fog over then apply HEAT and then maintain the windshield surface temperature at an elevated level to prevent further instances of fogging.
doesn't just pressing the ac button so it is no longer lighted when in "auto" mode effectively do the same thing? I have been doing this since purchasing my Rx300 in Feb. With the way you have your c-best options set now, do you have to manually turn on your ac when in "auto" or does it still come on if OAT > 65?
Peggy
If I want to use the OEM factory shipped mode all I have to do is turn the A/C on one time. Turning it off one time is the same, it stays off, PERIOD, unless I trun it back on.
Absent the 2nd C-best option change the A/C will always run in defrost/defog/demist mode but with no indication.
My 92 LS400 with 94k miles is the same story except I had to replace the driver's side rear oxygen sensor a few years ago and the factory anti-freeze was just drained and replaced within teh last year.
Of course replacing brake pads and batteries is SOP.