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Comments
You can also swap the battery with a known good one from your other car or at least try a jump start.
You can't get it out of park without applying the brakes. Applying the brakes actuates a tiny 12 volt solenoid that releases the lock which will allow you to shift out of park. Keep in mind that when you step on the brakes the brake lights come on and it is entirely possible that the ABS pumpmotor will also start to run. Thats lots of load current through your corroded battery terminals.
There is a little plastic cover near the shifter that can be removed so you can release/unlock the shifter manually.
With "no juice", corroded battery terminals, the solenoid will not release.
The fact that the engine started initially indicates, most likely, that the battery terminals are corroded.
But.
Happy motoring.
and anyway to get it done cheap? Thanks
Pete
Steve, Host
Your highway fuel economy will decrease from ~22MPG to ~20MPG, unless you figure a way to only have the additional resistance in place during WOT operations or in the alternative when the throttle is above idle and the torque converter lockup clutch is not engaged.
I Don't have any idea what level of HP improvement that indicates.
The viscous clutch was dropped from the design of the RX330 and remained that way for the entire RX330 production run.
Now I see that the new RX350 again has the VC incorporated within the PTO.
When the VC was dropped for the RX330 series the F/R final drive ratios were also revised, giving more engine torque bias toward the front. Now with the RX350 the RX300 final drive ratios are back in use again.
Some of you have noted, I'm sure, that the PTO has numerous heat disapating vanes/fins incorporated externally on the case. The way the VC operates is that differing front and rear driveline rotational rates result in "churning" the viscous fluid which heats it fairly rapidly. The fluid is formulated such that its volume would expand dramatically with temperature. But since it is hermetically sealed within the VC canister instead of expanding the fluid pressure increases dramatically. That results in an increased coupling coefficient between the two sets of clutch plates causing more of the engine torque to be routed toward the rear. With the rear driveline "overdriven" (versus) the front, the increased coupling coefficient has a more dramatic affect on torque distribution to the rear than it would otherwise.
But what if the heat generated by the VC could not be wicked away by the cooling fins as rapidly as necessary to keep the PTO's 90 weight from over-heating and then passing that heat on to the ATF in the adjacent diff'l case?
Somewhere after about 1999 Toyota adopted the transaxle shift procedures proposed by Sierra Research to improve fleet average fuel economy by 9.8%. I have no doubt whatsoever that the adoption of those technique lead directly to the later adoption of DBW to protect the "drive train".
What if, between the two, the heat contribution from the VC, and the additional clutch use/wear due to the additional shifts required to get the 9.8%, the result was "inadvertent", unforeseeable, premature transaxle failures in our AWD RX300s?
Has anyone yet seen, looked over, the PTO case in the new RX350?
Additional cooling vanes, maybe?
Or did the adoption of DBW in the RX330 solve the ATF "problem" and leaving out the VC turned out to be needless?
The ATF in the diff'l case has a separate drain plug, must be drained separately from the transaxle itself.....
Could that possibly mean that the ATF within the diff'l cannot very freely circulate with/into the main transaxle case? If so then it becomes even more probable that the fluid "trapped" in the diff'l is being overheated via the nearby/adjacent PTO case and then slowly over a long period remixes with the bulk of the ATF.
The ATF in the "main" transaxle case is being continuously circulated through the external ATF cooler in my AWD RX300.
Sometimes you can find one that has at least a small amount of the balance of the factory warrantee left, just in case all is not as it seems. That may help give a little piece of mind. If not, rest assured, you are choosing one of the more reliable units.
Some tips... Mechanically thoroughly check the car including the transmission fluid condition. Also, this model's engine can be subject to a "sludge" problem, only from extended idling and if not maintained properly, so look for proof of engine and transmission oil changes at early intervals (5000 or less for engine, nice pink to red trans fluid) and signs the car was not used for lots of stop-and-go use (lots of brake pedal and back seat wear, etc.) regardless of how low the mileage on the odometer is, and your experience is far more likely to be worthwhile than most other models!
Thanks,
Chintan Talati
Corporate Communications
Edmunds.com
http://www.lextasy.com/rx300_parts_31_ctg.htm
about halfway down, they have HID conversion kits including bulbs, ballasts, wiring, and instructions. They claim it's really easy for the owner to install. The price is marked down, too. Let us know what you think! Aftermarket parts for RX's are so hard to come by... :shades:
P.S. I've mever ordered from them yet, I was just hunting for an old site I used to get parts from, but didn't find it.
Steve, Host
I've not found I had any expensive problems after my '99 (first year) went out of warrantee, and I didn't buy one when I bought the car new.
You can also check the cost with a Credit Union if you are a member. I'm a member at a few CU's and each work with companies that offer coverage. Make sure you compare the policy's coverage.
Thanks,
Chintan Talati
Corporate Communications
Edmunds.com
So the VC is NOT, indirectly or otherwise, the source of the burned and contaminated ATF in the nearby diff'l case.
Is there a noticeable mechanical malfunction or does it just burn fluid?
The votes seem to be in favor of the premature failures being predominantly on the AWD version...
My friend has 2000 AWD with over 100,000 miles, no problems.
I've been changing mine more often since Lexus replaced the (FWD) trans under warrantee due to a TSB made worse by three incidents of dealer neglect, the unit still worked just not smoothly.
Now each time I change the fluid, it's more worn (just slightly burned looking) than I think it should be for it's age, and that's after I added additional cooling.
After hearing from you, I'm going to be changing mine at least annually, just to be safe.
Thanks
Any other impressions/suggestions?
Thanks,
Terry
Thanks,
Cookie
Edmunds Maintenance Guide
Pete
Pete
Thanks for your advice with these questions.
timing belt replacement
water pump replacement
drive belt replacement
oil and filter change
replace coolant
replace brake fluid
replace transmission fluid
inspect AC system, ball joints, chassis and body
check differential fluid
road test
loaner
car wash
I was told the regular a la carte price for these service items would have been $1,488.95! I was also advised that it is cheaper to replace the water pump when doing the timing belt since the pump runs off the belt.
Pete
It looks like the 5,000 mile services run around $110 each.
Steve, Host
Changed out the timing belt in my 92 LS at ~150,000 miles and it looked as if it would be good for that again. I don't plan on addressing the one in my 2001 RX300 until about that mileage.