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Lexus RX 300

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Comments

  • gitmogitmo Member Posts: 23
    Thanks a lot for the tips, I'll take care of it right away. I checked the trans fluid and it seems to be fine, also engine oil looks very good.
    As far as I can tell, there's no rear differential. Did you mean "G" would be third character in VIN of two wheel drive?
    Thanks again for the help.
  • gitmogitmo Member Posts: 23
    Hello,
    I was wondering if anyone has had to replace a master key. y car came with only one key (master) I'm thinking I should probably get another one in case of loss, breakage, etc..
    I know the dealer charges big$$, also where are the key code #s? like I said, I only have the one key.
    Thanks a lot for the help.
  • pschiffepschiffe Member Posts: 373
    If you have one original master key, a locksmith who specializes in high security vehicles can add additional keys for considerably less than most dealers charge. If the one key you have is not an original master key, it is necessary to replace or reflash the ECM to add additional keys.

    Pete :)
  • gitmogitmo Member Posts: 23
    Thanks for that! I have the original and will tap from that.
    Thanks
  • gitmogitmo Member Posts: 23
    Hello, I have two of the little side marker lights out. How the h*** do you get the things apart. Thanks, the owner's manual says: take it to the dealer. No way!
    Thanks for the help.
  • kmh2468kmh2468 Member Posts: 62
    I ran into the same problem with changing out these bulbs...

    I found this site that was very helpful:

    http://rx300how2.home.comcast.net/side_markers.htm

    hope this helps!
  • la4meadla4mead Member Posts: 347
    Thanks kmh for passing this on. He has some very useful tips for do-it-yourselfers. I was a member on Club Lexus, and this guy is, too. You can also link to them from his site.

    It seems he's been compiling his DIY notes and took the time to post them on his website for others to see and benefit from. I added the link to my CarSpace favorites.
  • gitmogitmo Member Posts: 23
    Hello,
    I'm going to need front brakes soon. Does anyone know of a good online car parts store?
    Thanks for the heads-up.
  • mikey00mikey00 Member Posts: 462
    Irontoad.com is a good source for discount oem Lexus parts. Then there is always Rock Auto if you want aftermarket.
  • gitmogitmo Member Posts: 23
    Thanks Mikey00,
    I've ordered brakes. Also CEL just came on, the car gets inspected tomorrow so I'll ask the guys to pull some code. I cleaned the MAF although it didn't seem too bad,but I figured I'd wait before I re-set the CEL.
    Thanks again for the help.
  • mikey00mikey00 Member Posts: 462
    Something to know. If you ordered oem Lexus pads, the front pads come without a wear indicator on them. This is a small metal clip that contacts the rotor and squeels when pads are almost gone. Just use the wear indicator from the old pads. The rear ones have the wear indicator.
    Also regarding your CEL. Most common cause is the gas cap not on good. Second most common seems to be when someone opens the top on the air box to check the engine air filter they disconnect the hose located directly behind the air box and below the brake fluid resovoir. Other than those 2 and the MAF, you will need codes.
  • gitmogitmo Member Posts: 23
    Thanks for the brake tip mikey. I checked the fuel cap and it was tight and the tube from the air cleaner box is also connected. I'll see what the guys find in the way of code today. The car runs great though, oil is clear, atf is pink and clean. According to average MPG on the display I'm getting 11.5 around town. That's about the only difference but that thing doesn't seem to be accurate all the time.
    I'll let everyone know what turns up.
  • gitmogitmo Member Posts: 23
    Hello,
    When I got my car, it came with only one master key. I've read about how flimsy these keys are (and expensive) I came across a great site: sparekeys.com you can have a shell key made for $60.00. When your cheap original breaks, just slide out the "brain" from the broken key and drop it into the new shell key, now you have a new master key that they promised me is much stronger than the original. Also, I did not have my key-code available so I called them, nice people, and really helpful. All I had to do was give them my VIN#, address, credit card# and the key goes out today.
    Still waiting to hear about my CEL codes. I'll spill my guts when I find out.
    cheers
  • gitmogitmo Member Posts: 23
    Sorry I'm an idiot,
    The site is: sparecarkeys.com makes more sense now. Sorry for the goose chase boys and girls. :blush:
  • gitmogitmo Member Posts: 23
    Hello,
    I picked up my car from the mechanic today. (2000 FWD rx-300 81,000 mls.) Code shows: p1130
    p1150 two front Oxygen sensors: bank 1, sensor #1 bank 2, sensor #2
    He re-set the CEL and said everything is fine on the car. He will install sensors if I want them...do I? Is it a real need? I had a BMW and the mechanic used to just re-set all the time and I was fine.
    Also, I was wondering about the oil jelling complaints. If a lot of owners are taking their cars to the quick change places for oil changes, tranny, etc... I know the oil filter on this car is a B**** to get to. So, that said, I would bet a lot of these places are skipping the filter change and just replacing the oil...IMHO maybe I'm wrong but how many of us check to make sure? Hmmmmmmm :confuse:
  • pschiffepschiffe Member Posts: 373
    I've heard too many horror stories about the quick oil change places, always took my RX300 to Toyota dealers for oil changes; about $22.95 or so with genuine Toy parts. Will probably do the same with the RX350.

    Pete :)
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Fyi, you may edit your post for 30 minutes after posting. And then few of us will ever know about the bad link. :-)
  • gitmogitmo Member Posts: 23
    Thanks Steve for the heads-up.
    Graham
  • jiaminjiamin Member Posts: 556
    I just had my 00 RX300 45K service done. I thought about skipping it however I had it done. Bdfore the service, when the car was cold or for the first 10 minutes or so, I always heard a very high pitch sound like metal pieces rubbing. It was not loud but I could heear it with windows open or closed. It does not change whether in "D" or in "N". After car completely warms up, it disappears.

    Forgot to mention this to the service dept, but after the service, it is completely gone. I paid $458 for this service.

    My RX300 has very low mileage, 43500 mile now. So far two failures. (1) the "D" bulb went out a few weeks ago and I replaced it; (2) the door lock/key fob control failure which costed my about $600 for the module replacement.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    That's a nice piece of change in the dealer's pocket for little or no services rendered. 45k service, by the book, is simply an oil and filter change, $50 at most.
  • mikey00mikey00 Member Posts: 462
    The high pitch sound when cold was most likely a belt which they either adjusted or replaced as part of the service.
  • jiaminjiamin Member Posts: 556
    Yes, you reminded me of some old cars that had the same sound. I used to spray belt dressing for a quick fix.

    Also yes, I paid too much for the 45K service. That dealer just moved to a brand new place, much larger and nicer looking. They need to collect money from customers like me to pay it off, and the ES350 free loaner is not actually free...
  • gitmogitmo Member Posts: 23
    Hello,
    My car will need oxygen sensors soon. I've found aftermarket sensors but how difficult are they to install yourself? Code shows: p1130
    p1150 two front Oxygen sensors: bank 1, sensor #1 bank 2, sensor #2. Does this mean they are ahead of the cat converter ?
    Thanks for the help.
    Graham :confuse:
  • iggiemamaiggiemama Member Posts: 1
    Hi Guys!
    I'm at my wits end and hoping with all the knowledge on this site I can get a straight answer. I bought my husband a Skifi2 for Christmas. He originally set it up using the cassette adaptor, but the cassette was constantly popping out on him. Called Lexus to see if it was a problem with the cassette player or the XM and they said they knew of no problems with the cassette player and to try cleaning it. So off we went to buy a cassette player cleaner. Cleaned, cassette still popped out. So we tried the FM route. Here in the Dallas/Ft. Worth area there are just too many stations. The interferance is horrible. Cuts out all the time. Went to Best Buy and got a FM Direct Adaptor. The installer says that it only works on the Lexus vehicles 50% of the time. He said they spoke with Lexus and that there's a problem with the FM stations interferance and that's why Lexus stopped putting XM radios in their vehicles. Huh? Don't know what to do now. Get the adaptor installed and see if it works? Forget about the whole darn thing and stick to CD's. Hubby does love the XM, just wish we could get the darn thing to work consistently. I've got an appointment to get the adapter installed on Friday. Help!
    Thanks in advance. Sherry.
  • gitmogitmo Member Posts: 23
    Hello,
    I'm putting Sirius satellite in my car. I had it in my Infiniti and it worked great, I've never heard of your problem before. I do think the "cassette" type installation is not the best way to go, even with a frequency available it's sketchy at best.
    The adapter should be ok, and you should be able to find an open frequency with ease. Now, as far as XM tech, that may be a grey area, Sirius recievers do a better job I've found because I've owned XM as well. Maybe the coming merger will address the problem if it does exist. Sorry I couldn't be more help but you're moving in the right direction.
    Good luck.
  • gitmogitmo Member Posts: 23
    Does anyone know how to replace the two front oxygen sensors? Is it difficult? My CEL has been going on and off, and the code has been read as two bad sensors.
    Thanks for the help.
  • jiaminjiamin Member Posts: 556
    my 00 RX300 CEL came on two days ago. I haven't felt anything different when driving. Checked the easy things like gas cap and the air filter hose. Also took the MAF sensor (the device on top of the air hose right behind the air filter box?) and "cleaned" it which looks very clean to me. No help. Since I don't feel anything different, I assume it's a minor glitch and reset the electronics by removing the "-" battery terminal. Now CEL disappears. I think if there IS something wrong, CEL will come back soon and I'll have someone check it out.
  • gitmogitmo Member Posts: 23
    hey Jiamin,
    Chances are your CEL will come back on soon. How many miles does your car have on it? It will probably show codes you should have your mechanic or your local Autozone (they will read code for free) It may be your co2 sensors which won't really cause performance issues aside from loss of fuel economy by 2-4 mpg.
    Good luck.
  • jiaminjiamin Member Posts: 556
    Hi gitmo, thanks for reading and replying my message.

    I got only 44K miles. I will certainly check it once I see the CEL again. Actually I should have checked it before I reset it. Now I have to wait...

    By the way, I was just told that on some cars/makes when CEL is flashing, it indicates a more serious problem than just on.
  • jiaminjiamin Member Posts: 556
    It's been nearly a week since I reset it. I haven't seen the CEL turned on yet. I am crossing my finger now.

    By the way, ealrier I posted the back gate support getting weak. When I open the gate half way up, it should go all the way to fully open position. It does not. However, if I push it up and pull it down a couple of times, it seems to work better but still not like when it was new. It's kind of like the lubrication issue. I just leave it as is and hope it won't suddenly drop on my head...
  • jiaminjiamin Member Posts: 556
    Hello gitmo,
    You are a good predictor.
    My CEL came on yesterday. I bought a cheapest scanner and it reports P0171, a pretty commom code I have read online.

    Last time I "cleaned" the MAF sensor. After I read more closely how to clean it, I found that I didn't clean anything at all! I didn't even know what is inside the sensor! Therefore, there is still a chance that after I clean it, it will work.

    I will report my result in a few days.
  • novanova Member Posts: 135
    I have a 2001 silver sport edition. Every few days I will go out to go some were and the 300 will turn over but will not run. I will wait an hour go out and it will start right up. This has happened 10 times.I called the dealer they say they can only check it when it is not starting. Last week I called the wrecker towed it to the dealer. They were busy and could not put a meter on the 300 right then. The next day of coarse the 300 started. ANY ONE HAVE THIS PROBLEM PLEASE HELP
  • mnfmnf Member Posts: 405
    Just a couple of questions when cleaning your MAF did you take the fuse out to reset it also you may want to change air filter at same time. My wifes did the same thing at around 50,000 miles did the above all is good now.

    Good Luck... MNF
  • jiaminjiamin Member Posts: 556
    I haven't done anything else after the MAF was cleaned. The air filter was replaced a few weeks ago at 45K mile service. Yes, I will either take the fuse out or use scanner to reset the error message.

    Question: if I don't reset it, the error message will always stay, after the problem is fix, correct? If yes, I think the circuit should be designed so the error message will be eraised automatically by the new cpu signal.
  • mnfmnf Member Posts: 405
    I belive that is correct i do know that when we had it at a Toyota dealer they wanted over $200 to fix it. I had someone on this form give me the information to do the trick. It should be that way with the error message I agree not sure why they make it difficult for the owners.

    MNF
  • jiaminjiamin Member Posts: 556
    Before I cleaned the sensor, I saw those two wires were covered with something like epoxy. I bought an electronics cleaner from Fry's and sprayed several times on them until it was very clean.

    Some of my friend said that every time after the dealer service, there is always issues like this. Is dealer trying to make more money by doing this?
  • pschiffepschiffe Member Posts: 373
    I disconnected the battery positive cable for a few seconds to reset the CEL after cleaning the MAF sensor.

    Pete :)
  • jiaminjiamin Member Posts: 556
    Now it's been a few days, and I haven't seen CEL light come back.

    I saw there is another round connector with a lid, next to this OBD connector. I don't know what that is but my best guess is it is for technician to program the "CBEST".
  • jiaminjiamin Member Posts: 556
    It might be an old question: Is the pollen-removal filter washable? Looks to me it is. This thing is also expensive. I think we can wash it gently in some mild detergent.
  • mikey00mikey00 Member Posts: 462
    Yes. I have 112k on my original filter and it has been washed about 3 times. I first vacuum it off with the brush attachment on the vacuum and then wash it in the sink with Tide.
    Also good to know, a replacement is not so expensive anymore. Most of the aftermarket companies are making them now. Bosh, Wix, NPN, Denso to name a few. AutoZone has the Bosh for about $15. AutoBarn also has it online. Also here is a link to the NPN for less than $15:
    http://catalog.drivewire.com/drivewire/baseline/wizard-newest.jsp?partner=drivew- ire&year=2001&make=LX&model=RX-300-002&category=All&part=ACC+Cabin+Filter
  • jiaminjiamin Member Posts: 556
    Thanks mikey00.
    I'll wash it today.
  • pschiffepschiffe Member Posts: 373
    AKA Cabin Air Filter.

    Pete :)
  • jiaminjiamin Member Posts: 556
    My CEL has not come back on so far, and I don't think it'll be back.
  • willy13willy13 Member Posts: 1
    My 2000 RX300 briefly hesitates when accelerating. Any idea why?

    Thanks
  • jiaminjiamin Member Posts: 556
    I wonder if anyone has replaced the turn signal bulbs with the LED type, and how they work regarding brightness and flashing rate.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    I have replaced ALL turn/stop/tail/street/side parking bulbs with LEDs from Velocity LEDs on Ebay.

    The solid state controller for the turn signal flasher relay has a current flow sensor that will cause the controller to FAST flash if the current flow indicates a bulb failure. You have to change out this nichrome resistive link so the low current of the LEDS does not trigger a bulb failure flash rate.

    Same thing with the stop/tail/high mount bulb failure sensor module in the driver's side rear quarter panel, except there are three sensor resistive links that must be changed out.

    Or you can simply ignore the rear bulb failure indication on the instrument panel or tape it over with black electrical tape.
  • jiaminjiamin Member Posts: 556
    Thanks wwest.

    Sounds like the turn signal replacement is a bit too much work for me. I'll probablly start with the stop light. Also the interior reading and dome light, so that I can leave them on for long time without lots of heating.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Oh sorry, over-looked that.

    I replaced the mid-dome light, just behind the front seats. with a Ford map/dome overhead (see Ebay auction #220103570956) that has left and right map lights w/individual switches and center dome light.

    Wired it with a transistor and diodes so the map lights come on and off (slowly) with the dome bulb. Rewired the front dome/map switch so it turns on the passenger map light on the Ford unit.

    Used 3 Luxeon 3 watt leds with limiting resistor to limit current to 1 amp. You will need good heat sinks for those 3 watt Luxeons though.

    Lots of LED bulb/lamp/fixture stuff available will fail within 24 hours due to insufficient heat sinking. LEDs overheat and reduce in brightness without proper heat sinking.

    Basically didn't care for the Lexus front map light that helped blind me when on at night. Much better with the passenger, DW, map light from behind.
  • jiaminjiamin Member Posts: 556
    Hi wwest,

    The mid dome light has a fading feature. Does your new LED light still have that? It is not a big deal to me, but nice to still have it.

    Thanks,
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    I used a 5 amp darlington transistor connected as an emitter follower and two isolation diodes to get the two "map" lamps to turn on with and extinguish slowly along with the dome light.

    Darling base driven directly from the existing 12 volt dome power, collector to 12 volts and emitter to the anode of the two diodes, diode cathodes connected to each "map" light.
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