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The factory dome bulb draws ~1 amp and I didn't want to possibly compromise the "fade" device by drawing ~3 amps directly from it.
2. will it be better to have two LEDs in series and reduce the 9.1 Ohm value. to have less heat and more light? Maybe your Darlinton base juction has dropped enough voltage and won't allow the 2nd LED in?
Yesterday I went to Pep Boys. They only have color LED bulbs (red and blue) for direct replacement. I want the same yellowish color, or white. Yours are custom designed.
Thanks again for all your answers.
In my case both Luxeon LEDs would need a good size heat sink and there is very little room for the first one, let alone a second.
I do have applications where I use three Luxeons in series with a 3 ohm resistor. RV dometec refrigerator, RV door light (two strings of three), and RV step lights.
The dealer said it was tire pressure. This fixed the problem for about a year. Guess what, same problem, same curve!!
Any ideas!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Sand or fine gravel on the curving roadbed left over from winter...?
The VSC/Trac system is already handicapped in that in a turn/curve the outside wheel will be rotating faster than the other making it seem as if that outside wheel is slipping.
Thanks.
Pete
Maybe you can convert the pdf to a jpg or gif file and put it in your Album (or make a Guide)? Who knows when we'll get the archives uncovered.
How do I access his CarSpace account? Would I just send an eMail to Ddkimura@carspace.com using my own eMail client?
Pete
Pete
Thanks!
Dave
dstarosta@hotmail.com
My mechanics said it's due to a bad idle control module which is a known issue for Lexus. He quoted me $350 to fix it. I am wondering if idle control module is the same thing as throttle control module? Is $350 reasonable?
MAF sensor was cleaned well a few months ago, and my scanner showed no error code. I was told to look for some hanging loose vacuum hose, etc. I need you experts' suggestion what the most common areas are to look for.
Thanks.
Four years ago we purchased a used 27" Four Winds MH on a Ford E350 V10 powered chasis. Our primary criteria insofar as MH vs TT was for my wife to be able to get up and move about while traveling as I am the primary (only?) driver. I can drive about 500 miles a day if it's in daylight. But at 60+ I knew I Needed food, coke, or whatnot after that first 300 miles to avoid getting drowsy enough that I yawned almost continuously.
Part of the problem, equation, was that all of our other vehicles, at least the viable ones, are AWD, so if towed they had to be on a trailer, all wheels "up".
So for that 4 years we have vacilated between buying a trailer for wheels up, and/or a TOAD, a new vehicle that could be towed all wheels down. Meantime we have settled for renting a vehicle at our destination. More recently we have considered the RAV4 initially but then the '08 came out without a stick shift. Have had my eye on the Suzuki SX4 stick shift of late.
But on our last return trip, central MT and back, the discussion came up about the safety of my DW, VERY DW, being up and around while underway.
Bottom line is we are now seriously considering selling the MH and buying a small, ~16', Travel trailer. The "usefull" portion of our MH is only 16' long.
And now this is where our 2001 AWD RX300 comes into the discussion. There are a myriad of used (it is NEVER cost effective to purchase a new RV!) TT's out there in the maretplace wherein I can stay below the 3500 pound (supposed) towing capacity of the RX.
The tow hitch from my RX was removed the first week of purchase and it has never endured anything close to rough service. Yet at 40,000 miles the ATF smelled and looked burned. I flushed it twice within 5,000 miles and am watching it carefully at each oil change. I strongly suspect the burned ATF is due to the same shift pattern change that was made for the initial RX production and it is that change that resulted in premature transaxle failures of many '99 RXes.
So I am fully prepared, expect, for a DIY transaxle rebuild at 80-100,000 miles. At the same time I will be locking the transaxle's center diff'l in a way that the drive to the rear will be a solid mechanical connection and the VC will become the only drive to the front wheels.
Should I go forward with this TT purchase plan the first thing I will do after mounting the tow hitch is add cooling fans for the auxillary ATF cooling heat exchanger.
Now, the QUESTION.
Does anyone out there have a substantial enough level of experience towing with any RX. 300, 330, 350, to be able to say if I am on the right track or not?
We have put ~10,000 miles on the MH in those 4 years.
65,000 miles on the RX, daily driver, since purchasing it new in '01.
Any other options, modifications, to the RX that I should consider to make it more robust for towing a 3500lb TT?
Pete
Because of the limited space, I wanted to add a couple high-flow 12 volt computer fans to the ATF coolers in the fender(like the ones I use to cool the back of the refrigerator on the motorhome) and you reminded me of the project last time we discussed towing with the RX. I have two RX's to do. Mine and a friend's 2000 AWD.
My question to you (or anyone else in the know) is about the engine fan relay. If I try to piggyback the power to run the
computer(sorry, ATF Cooler Fan) from the engine fan relay, isn't the engine fan of "variable speed" design? Where do I go to get 12 volt output when the engine temp starts getting warm to power the ATF Cooler (computer) fans?Otherwise, I guess I need to make a trip to Pep Boys and buy a Hayden fan relay kit, one with a temp probe I can insert into the ATF cooler. One problem with that is there may be a minimum power draw requirement that the very efficient computer fans may not pull enough juice to engage the Hayden relay. I'll just have to hook up a big, bright TRANS TEMP light to it, if that's the case. So that's $100 bucks worth I'd rather not spend, if I can just piggyback from the engine fan relay without somewhere before the "variable speed" controller (or whatever the controller is called, if I can.
P.S. Sorry to hear that you're still having troubles with your '02 showing burned fluid. And no amount of pleading with the dealer has helped with them accommodating with an updated transmission... I suppose you've already tried multiple dealers? You still barely have some powertrain warrantee, don't you?
My RX shop/repair manuals are at the office and I will check to see if the RX uses this method on Monday.
In the alternative the RX has a thermistor within the transaxle for sensing/triggering the ATF overheat dash WARNING Icon. So you could always tap into that signal wire to sense linear ATF temperature and design your own circuit to run two fans in series if the ATF temperature is at some medium/intermediate level and in parallel if it starts to rise above that and/or begins to approach the overheat level.
Mine is an '01 and assuming I'm correct on the overheat cause thre is as yet no viable solution offered by Lexus, even in later Rx models.
The transaxle's internal thermistor (term THO) output signal, used to sense ATF temperature is on pin #1 of the connector into the transaxle, Green wire w/yellow stripe.
*** Under the sludge recall letter I recieved there was no indication that the sludge problem was related to owner maintenance. On the other hand I seem to remember that an engine design change was made to alleviate the problem prior to the 2002 RX300 MY.
If so the dealer request is quite valid.
"...oil changes at different garages..."
Were I a dealer I would much rather have a DIY'er come in with this problem/explanation. I always buy my oil filters from Lexus and keep those reciepts.
"test only center"..??
As opposed to what, a test and/or repair center??
I would think the opposite would be true...
"Cars that pollute more should go to a test/repair center."
And it seems to me that a test only center would be the ones to charge more since they don't have the opportunity to gouge the customer by charging for un-needed "repairs".
I would assume most test and repair centers are run by either GoodYear or FireStone...seeing as how they seem to be the best at up-selling and thereby doing un-necessary repairs.
The second letter back peddled away from totaly blaming the owner but still stressed proper maintenance. This letter offered the 8 year unlimited mileage warranty and stated "all we ask is that you show a reasonable effort to regulary maintain your vehicle". No actual mention of what you need to "show".
The third mailing was the legal notice of the results of the class action action suit.It stated "If this vehicle is covered by the program and has an oil gell problem, and it has been resonably maintained , it will be repaired" No mention of what proof is needed. It did go on to mention "normal" and "severe" maintenance schedules.
So when we got home I checked the coolant level in the expansion tank/reservoir. It was a tad above the "hot" full mark but the interesting thing was that there was moisture visible around the reservoir fill cap, just a little, but enough to be a bit worrisome. Additionally there was a "crusty" surround on the top of the reservoir all the way around the fill cap but at a distance of 1" or so.
IMMHO the "crust" buildup is obviously an indication of a (recent?) "history" of coolant overflow
Just went out this morning to check after the engine has cooled all night and the coolant level in the reservoir is still above the "hot" fill mark...
Took the radiator cap off and the coolant level is right at the top in there too.
In 65k miles I have NEVER had/seen any indication of the engine overheating and insofar as I know the coolant system, other than just now, has not been "opened" for even refilling since leaving the factory in ~2000.
What gives...?
Anyone...?
If you think there might be an easy way I can piggy back from the engine fan relay to get 12 volts when the first step (6 volts?) comes on, such as just to trigger another relay that will turn on a full 12 volts to the (computer) tranny cooler fan, I'd like to try that and save $100 bucks otherwise I'd have to buy a Hayden fan relay kit.
I guess my question is... Do you know what wire I can use to tap into for such a trigger? Where might I find it?
Thanks a bunch if you can help. You are a great help, even if you don't know, but I appreciate your input, and I'm doing this for a friend as well. This might help others who want to cool their RX's, too. :shades:
Then I finally went to a different Lexus dealer who recognized the problem, but this wasn't until the transmission was worn out just before the warrantee expired near 70,000 miles due hard shifting, and they replaced the whole thing with an up-to-date brand-new factory unit with no problems at all. Some had the whole transmissions rebuilt or replaced new with Lexus Kyushu supplied units. If any of the above was the case with Auntie's car, and the fluid is a nice red color, and the car drives well, I'd say it's great. The more history Auntie supplies the better.
If Auntie just drove it, let Lexus service it "by the book" which means likely the transmission pan has never been dropped for service (maybe only the transmission fluid changed, if at all) and never had the original '99 transmission updated by LEXUS, I'd expect you will just need to expect a transmission exchange with a FACTORY UPDATED rebuilt replacement when it goes, about $4000. I wouldn't go with an aftermarket or a used unit, which would have the same problems you are trying to avoid, and likely only buy a small amount of mileage and time.
If there is no tranny trouble now, you may be able to keep the RX300's transmission going well for many miles by dropping the transmission pan and having the filter (screen in early models) inspected for wear debris, replacing the fluid often, and ONLY with TYPE IV fluid, NOT what they use at a corner lube or transmission shop, which is Dextron and an additive, to simulate type IV fluid.
Also, as we discussed in this forum, you can add another compact transmission fluid cooler in-line with your factory auxilery ATF cooler in your RF fender, and with an exacto, widen up the exit holes to allow more airflow. And you can add a computer fan under the washer bottle/bumper in front of the ATF coolers. The RX's tranny cooling from the factory is OK as long as the vehicle is moving, however it's poor when the car is used in slow traffic, and should not be used for extended idling with the air conditioning on. Unfortunately, that's how it's used a lot with the A/C on "AUTO" sitting with the engine idling, and there is no recommended service interval for the transmission, so even if the car was serviced "by the book" likely the transmission filter has never even been inspected. :sick:
TheCarOpeners
Pete
I'm a new member...looking for the best bug shield/rock shield for the front end of my 02 RX 300...don't know where or how to post the message.
Thanks,
JW
Pete
"Suggesting a new CV boot..."
Does that by any chance mean the right front CV boot is visually defective, leaking lubricant, maybe?
If the CV joint isn't fully enclosed, protected, by the boot it will not take long for the CV itself to fail.
CV joint failure during a tight or accelerating turn might sound very much like ABS activation.
Additionally a failing right front CV joint might very well result in the right front wheel, especially so in a tight or accelerating turn, slowing faster during braking as opposed to the opposite wheel.
Remember that in a right turn the right wheel is already turning slower than the left so during braking the ABS may already be on the "cusp" of seeing wheel skid.
Interesting observation though that a failing R front CV joint might activate the ABS. Thank you.
The CV joint is packed with grease and if the boot is compromised that grease will be compromised with roadway water and dirt. Most common indication of failure is the grease will get "slung" out and show on surfaces around the leak point.
A failing, failed, CV joint will sound "krunching" in a really tight turn even at a fairly low speed.
FWD and F/AWD transaxles have had various trouble symptoms indicating a serious design problem/flaw beginning with the introduction of the RX series and continuing to this day across the board.
Is your car an all wheel drive (awd) or front wheel drive only?
Thanks
That's what was wrong with mine, AWD 2001 RX300, at only 40,000 miles.