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Lexus RX 300

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Comments

  • jiaminjiamin Member Posts: 556
    I don't understand why darlington transistor is used here, especially the emitter follower configuration, as LED draws much less current. Will a resistor in series with LED work?
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    For "repeating" the fade function. The 3 watt Luxeon LEDs (lumileds.com) need 1 amp at ~4 volts to produce ~80 lumens of light, 9.1 ohm 10 watt series resistor.

    The factory dome bulb draws ~1 amp and I didn't want to possibly compromise the "fade" device by drawing ~3 amps directly from it.
  • jiaminjiamin Member Posts: 556
    1. so an LED with a proper value resistor in series connected to the "fading" signal/terminal will not work well?
    2. will it be better to have two LEDs in series and reduce the 9.1 Ohm value. to have less heat and more light? Maybe your Darlinton base juction has dropped enough voltage and won't allow the 2nd LED in?

    Yesterday I went to Pep Boys. They only have color LED bulbs (red and blue) for direct replacement. I want the same yellowish color, or white. Yours are custom designed.

    Thanks again for all your answers.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    I don't know what the "rating" is for whatever device Lexus uses for driving the dome light and the fade-out effect. So the best thing to do was provide an emitter follower "repeater".

    In my case both Luxeon LEDs would need a good size heat sink and there is very little room for the first one, let alone a second.

    I do have applications where I use three Luxeons in series with a 3 ohm resistor. RV dometec refrigerator, RV door light (two strings of three), and RV step lights.
  • phil35phil35 Member Posts: 1
    My VSC alarm has gone off about five times always at the same curve on a local road. Scares the #$??# out of me!!!
    The dealer said it was tire pressure. This fixed the problem for about a year. Guess what, same problem, same curve!!
    Any ideas!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Do you always "push", accelerate, through that curve...?

    Sand or fine gravel on the curving roadbed left over from winter...?

    The VSC/Trac system is already handicapped in that in a turn/curve the outside wheel will be rotating faster than the other making it seem as if that outside wheel is slipping.
  • hadyourphilhadyourphil Member Posts: 1
    I'm new here, so maybe I just missed this in my search, but how does one remove the radio? I'd like to thoroughly clean the cassette player and modify the AM section for better fidelity.
    Thanks.
  • ddkimuraddkimura Member Posts: 1
    If you still have the instructions in pdf format it would be much appreciated. I cannot find it in the archives. Thank you.
  • pschiffepschiffe Member Posts: 373
    Give me your eMail address and I'll send you a pdf.

    Pete
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Ddkimura has a CarSpace account so that email should work, and there's a place to attach files.

    Maybe you can convert the pdf to a jpg or gif file and put it in your Album (or make a Guide)? Who knows when we'll get the archives uncovered.
  • pschiffepschiffe Member Posts: 373
    Steve,
    How do I access his CarSpace account? Would I just send an eMail to Ddkimura@carspace.com using my own eMail client?

    Pete
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Yep, that will do it. Most people forward their CarSpace accounts I think, so hopefully it'll get there easily enough, unless the Allowed Correspondents option makes it bounce. In which case you'll find out soon enough and can try Plan B.
  • pschiffepschiffe Member Posts: 373
    David eMailed me directly and I sent him a copy of the pdf. Apparently my email addy is in here someplace.

    Pete :)
  • dstardstar Member Posts: 2
    Hi - I saw your post about the fogging of the head lights. I have read were people had gotten new lenses per the warranty. When I spoke with my dealorship I am getting the run arround. What did you end up doing to correct this?

    Thanks!

    Dave
    dstarosta@hotmail.com
  • jjpcatjjpcat Member Posts: 124
    Recently, I have problems in starting my 2000 RX300. After parking over-night, I have to keep my foot on the gas for about 2 minutes (engine at 1500-2000 rpm) before driving it. Otherwise the engine would shut down immediately.

    My mechanics said it's due to a bad idle control module which is a known issue for Lexus. He quoted me $350 to fix it. I am wondering if idle control module is the same thing as throttle control module? Is $350 reasonable?
  • mikey00mikey00 Member Posts: 462
    Very common problem. It's your Idle Air Control Valve (IACV). Cleaning almost always fixes the problem. Do a search in this forum for "idle air control valve" for info and procedure for cleaning. There is also a procedure on the net complete with pictures.
  • jiaminjiamin Member Posts: 556
    Today, I have got a worse symptom: Engine cranks but dies right after. I had my foot on the gas pedal a little, engine kept runing, until I released it.

    MAF sensor was cleaned well a few months ago, and my scanner showed no error code. I was told to look for some hanging loose vacuum hose, etc. I need you experts' suggestion what the most common areas are to look for.

    Thanks.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Not really OT, read on...

    Four years ago we purchased a used 27" Four Winds MH on a Ford E350 V10 powered chasis. Our primary criteria insofar as MH vs TT was for my wife to be able to get up and move about while traveling as I am the primary (only?) driver. I can drive about 500 miles a day if it's in daylight. But at 60+ I knew I Needed food, coke, or whatnot after that first 300 miles to avoid getting drowsy enough that I yawned almost continuously.

    Part of the problem, equation, was that all of our other vehicles, at least the viable ones, are AWD, so if towed they had to be on a trailer, all wheels "up".

    So for that 4 years we have vacilated between buying a trailer for wheels up, and/or a TOAD, a new vehicle that could be towed all wheels down. Meantime we have settled for renting a vehicle at our destination. More recently we have considered the RAV4 initially but then the '08 came out without a stick shift. Have had my eye on the Suzuki SX4 stick shift of late.

    But on our last return trip, central MT and back, the discussion came up about the safety of my DW, VERY DW, being up and around while underway.

    Bottom line is we are now seriously considering selling the MH and buying a small, ~16', Travel trailer. The "usefull" portion of our MH is only 16' long.

    And now this is where our 2001 AWD RX300 comes into the discussion. There are a myriad of used (it is NEVER cost effective to purchase a new RV!) TT's out there in the maretplace wherein I can stay below the 3500 pound (supposed) towing capacity of the RX.

    The tow hitch from my RX was removed the first week of purchase and it has never endured anything close to rough service. Yet at 40,000 miles the ATF smelled and looked burned. I flushed it twice within 5,000 miles and am watching it carefully at each oil change. I strongly suspect the burned ATF is due to the same shift pattern change that was made for the initial RX production and it is that change that resulted in premature transaxle failures of many '99 RXes.

    So I am fully prepared, expect, for a DIY transaxle rebuild at 80-100,000 miles. At the same time I will be locking the transaxle's center diff'l in a way that the drive to the rear will be a solid mechanical connection and the VC will become the only drive to the front wheels.

    Should I go forward with this TT purchase plan the first thing I will do after mounting the tow hitch is add cooling fans for the auxillary ATF cooling heat exchanger.

    Now, the QUESTION.

    Does anyone out there have a substantial enough level of experience towing with any RX. 300, 330, 350, to be able to say if I am on the right track or not?

    We have put ~10,000 miles on the MH in those 4 years.

    65,000 miles on the RX, daily driver, since purchasing it new in '01.

    Any other options, modifications, to the RX that I should consider to make it more robust for towing a 3500lb TT?
  • pschiffepschiffe Member Posts: 373
    Make sure that your hitch is Class III - 3,500 lbs. GTW 2" Square. Some were Class I or Class II - 2,000 lbs. GTW 1-1/4" Square.

    Pete :)
  • la4meadla4mead Member Posts: 347
    We need to talk about the cooling fans on the tranny coolers again. I've been all ready to do this (remember mine is an early '99 with a late '04 Kyushu factory-updated tranny, and I added an additional cooler behind the aux cooler that came with the "tow package").

    Because of the limited space, I wanted to add a couple high-flow 12 volt computer fans to the ATF coolers in the fender(like the ones I use to cool the back of the refrigerator on the motorhome) and you reminded me of the project last time we discussed towing with the RX. I have two RX's to do. Mine and a friend's 2000 AWD.

    My question to you (or anyone else in the know) is about the engine fan relay. If I try to piggyback the power to run the computer (sorry, ATF Cooler Fan) from the engine fan relay, isn't the engine fan of "variable speed" design? Where do I go to get 12 volt output when the engine temp starts getting warm to power the ATF Cooler (computer) fans?

    Otherwise, I guess I need to make a trip to Pep Boys and buy a Hayden fan relay kit, one with a temp probe I can insert into the ATF cooler. One problem with that is there may be a minimum power draw requirement that the very efficient computer fans may not pull enough juice to engage the Hayden relay. I'll just have to hook up a big, bright TRANS TEMP light to it, if that's the case. So that's $100 bucks worth I'd rather not spend, if I can just piggyback from the engine fan relay without somewhere before the "variable speed" controller (or whatever the controller is called, if I can.

    P.S. Sorry to hear that you're still having troubles with your '02 showing burned fluid. And no amount of pleading with the dealer has helped with them accommodating with an updated transmission... I suppose you've already tried multiple dealers? You still barely have some powertrain warrantee, don't you?
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    As a rule the radiator cooling fans are run at low speed by connecting them in series so each only gets 6 volts. In high speed they are connected in parallel.

    My RX shop/repair manuals are at the office and I will check to see if the RX uses this method on Monday.

    In the alternative the RX has a thermistor within the transaxle for sensing/triggering the ATF overheat dash WARNING Icon. So you could always tap into that signal wire to sense linear ATF temperature and design your own circuit to run two fans in series if the ATF temperature is at some medium/intermediate level and in parallel if it starts to rise above that and/or begins to approach the overheat level.

    Mine is an '01 and assuming I'm correct on the overheat cause thre is as yet no viable solution offered by Lexus, even in later Rx models.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    The MY2000 RX300 runs the two fans in series for low speed and both across the 12 VDC supply for high speed.

    The transaxle's internal thermistor (term THO) output signal, used to sense ATF temperature is on pin #1 of the connector into the transaxle, Green wire w/yellow stripe.
  • lefty7lefty7 Member Posts: 1
    I am new to this board. I just discovered that I have a sludge problem with my 2002 rx300. (60000miles). The dealer is asking me for my service records for the last year. I do not live near a lexus dealer and have been getting oil changes at different garages. Do not have all the receipts, Is this going to cause me a problem with getting my engine replaced.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    I don't think the dealer has "grounds"(***) to make this request but better to avoid a confrontation so do your best, best efforts, to provide the documentation requested.

    *** Under the sludge recall letter I recieved there was no indication that the sludge problem was related to owner maintenance. On the other hand I seem to remember that an engine design change was made to alleviate the problem prior to the 2002 RX300 MY.

    If so the dealer request is quite valid.

    "...oil changes at different garages..."

    Were I a dealer I would much rather have a DIY'er come in with this problem/explanation. I always buy my oil filters from Lexus and keep those reciepts.
  • avery1avery1 Member Posts: 373
    I have a 99RX and live in CA. My last couple of registration renewals have said that I needed to take my car to a test only center. There is an extra $10 charge if it has this requirement. I finally asked the guy at the test center why the extra charge and he said it is because cars that pollute more are referred to these test only centers. My RX has always passed with flying colors and my recollection is that the RX was sold as an ultra low polluter to begin with. Anyone know anything about this? $10 every two years isn't that big of a deal but my curiosity is aroused now.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    "....take my car to a test only center..."

    "test only center"..??

    As opposed to what, a test and/or repair center??

    I would think the opposite would be true...

    "Cars that pollute more should go to a test/repair center."

    And it seems to me that a test only center would be the ones to charge more since they don't have the opportunity to gouge the customer by charging for un-needed "repairs".

    I would assume most test and repair centers are run by either GoodYear or FireStone...seeing as how they seem to be the best at up-selling and thereby doing un-necessary repairs.
  • mikey00mikey00 Member Posts: 462
    I received 3 seperate mailings about the "oil gelling" issue. The first one but the blame on lack of owner maintenance. It stated "Oil gelling is solely a maintenance issue, and we are not aware of any situation in which a properly maintained vehicle has experienced mechanical problems associated with this issue". They offered a 12 month good will program and went on to say "you must be able to prove proper maintenance through copies of your work orders, receipts, or other appropiate service records".
    The second letter back peddled away from totaly blaming the owner but still stressed proper maintenance. This letter offered the 8 year unlimited mileage warranty and stated "all we ask is that you show a reasonable effort to regulary maintain your vehicle". No actual mention of what you need to "show".
    The third mailing was the legal notice of the results of the class action action suit.It stated "If this vehicle is covered by the program and has an oil gell problem, and it has been resonably maintained , it will be repaired" No mention of what proof is needed. It did go on to mention "normal" and "severe" maintenance schedules.
  • avery1avery1 Member Posts: 373
    It's just an idiosyncrasy of California law which I'm sure was written by lobbyists for the test machines. But wasn't the 99 RX supposed to be a very low emission car? I don't know if it was an ULEV but I thought I remembered something like that when I bought it. Now that I'm thinking about it I guess I will just have to spend a couple of hours trying to reach someone who might have a clue at the DMV.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    My wife complained yesterday that she thought she could smell anti-freeze in our 2001 AWD RX300.

    So when we got home I checked the coolant level in the expansion tank/reservoir. It was a tad above the "hot" full mark but the interesting thing was that there was moisture visible around the reservoir fill cap, just a little, but enough to be a bit worrisome. Additionally there was a "crusty" surround on the top of the reservoir all the way around the fill cap but at a distance of 1" or so.

    IMMHO the "crust" buildup is obviously an indication of a (recent?) "history" of coolant overflow

    Just went out this morning to check after the engine has cooled all night and the coolant level in the reservoir is still above the "hot" fill mark...

    Took the radiator cap off and the coolant level is right at the top in there too.

    In 65k miles I have NEVER had/seen any indication of the engine overheating and insofar as I know the coolant system, other than just now, has not been "opened" for even refilling since leaving the factory in ~2000.

    What gives...?

    Anyone...?
  • la4meadla4mead Member Posts: 347
    I'm probably going to try this this week. However mine is a 2WD, and doesn't have a dash warning light. I doubt if mine ever gets hot enough to trigger a warning, even if the thermistor was there. Even in traffic. I have extra coolers on mine, and shift it manually if need be. Since the 2004 transmission upgrade, I haven't noticed any fluid burning, either.

    If you think there might be an easy way I can piggy back from the engine fan relay to get 12 volts when the first step (6 volts?) comes on, such as just to trigger another relay that will turn on a full 12 volts to the (computer) tranny cooler fan, I'd like to try that and save $100 bucks otherwise I'd have to buy a Hayden fan relay kit.

    I guess my question is... Do you know what wire I can use to tap into for such a trigger? Where might I find it?

    Thanks a bunch if you can help. You are a great help, even if you don't know, but I appreciate your input, and I'm doing this for a friend as well. This might help others who want to cool their RX's, too. :shades:
  • rx301rx301 Member Posts: 1
    Question from a novice. I'm considering purchasing a '99 RX300 from my aunt. It's in great condition, has been babied, and only has 40,000 miles on it. I'm paying her $11,000. My question is about the rumors I'm hearing about transmission troubles. Can anyone ellaborate? Any opinions on if this is a good purchase? Thank you.
  • la4meadla4mead Member Posts: 347
    I have one of the early '99 2WD RX300's, original owner. The early models had some quirks, which only some better dealers were really good about. One of them was the transmission. There was a TSB to update the transmission both hardware and software, I believe. Mine came with an awkward 2-1,1-2 shift in cold weather that became troublesome only rarely. My neighborhood Lexus dealer jerked me around on the issue.

    Then I finally went to a different Lexus dealer who recognized the problem, but this wasn't until the transmission was worn out just before the warrantee expired near 70,000 miles due hard shifting, and they replaced the whole thing with an up-to-date brand-new factory unit with no problems at all. Some had the whole transmissions rebuilt or replaced new with Lexus Kyushu supplied units. If any of the above was the case with Auntie's car, and the fluid is a nice red color, and the car drives well, I'd say it's great. The more history Auntie supplies the better.

    If Auntie just drove it, let Lexus service it "by the book" which means likely the transmission pan has never been dropped for service (maybe only the transmission fluid changed, if at all) and never had the original '99 transmission updated by LEXUS, I'd expect you will just need to expect a transmission exchange with a FACTORY UPDATED rebuilt replacement when it goes, about $4000. I wouldn't go with an aftermarket or a used unit, which would have the same problems you are trying to avoid, and likely only buy a small amount of mileage and time.

    If there is no tranny trouble now, you may be able to keep the RX300's transmission going well for many miles by dropping the transmission pan and having the filter (screen in early models) inspected for wear debris, replacing the fluid often, and ONLY :D with TYPE IV fluid, NOT what they use at a corner lube or transmission shop, which is Dextron and an additive, to simulate type IV fluid.

    Also, as we discussed in this forum, you can add another compact transmission fluid cooler in-line with your factory auxilery ATF cooler in your RF fender, and with an exacto, widen up the exit holes to allow more airflow. And you can add a computer fan under the washer bottle/bumper in front of the ATF coolers. The RX's tranny cooling from the factory is OK as long as the vehicle is moving, however it's poor when the car is used in slow traffic, and should not be used for extended idling with the air conditioning on. Unfortunately, that's how it's used a lot with the A/C on "AUTO" sitting with the engine idling, and there is no recommended service interval for the transmission, so even if the car was serviced "by the book" likely the transmission filter has never even been inspected. :sick:
  • avery1avery1 Member Posts: 373
    I have one of the first '99s and wish I had only 40,000 miles on mine. I have 160,000. No problems at all, transmission or otherwise. No update done, to my knowledge, on the transmission via software or otherwise.
  • traylortraylor Member Posts: 8
    I was at my local Lexus dealer last week and mentioned the "foggy" head and taillight problem and the service guy practically jumped out of his seat to show me a product they sell. Believe it or not, it is a very fine-grain polish designed specifically for plastic lens covers --cost $8 bucks. Took it home and it worked great. I also use it on the hard black plastic frames around the doors.
  • mngtconmngtcon Member Posts: 7
    Can anyone recommend a locksmith in the LA area (ideally, San Gabriel Valley) that can cut a Lexus RX300 replacement master key? Thx
  • pschiffepschiffe Member Posts: 373
    Here is a website that can furnish replacement Lexus keys if you are interested, note that one original master key is needed to program additional keys. I would avoid the "refurbished" keys:
    TheCarOpeners

    Pete :)
  • mngtconmngtcon Member Posts: 7
    Thanks Pete. According to their website, they can cut a blank key for $20. I'll contact them.
  • jswolffjswolff Member Posts: 3
    Hi:

    I'm a new member...looking for the best bug shield/rock shield for the front end of my 02 RX 300...don't know where or how to post the message.

    Thanks,

    JW
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Hey JW, while waiting for owners to reply in here, check out the Bug guards, protective bras & film discussion.
  • phillip6phillip6 Member Posts: 3
    Question from a novice: The ABS on the R front tire of my AWD 1999 RX300 engages only when I am turning R and braking at 25 - 20 mph. It has 106,000 miles. I took it to my local mechanic and he replaced the ABS unit on the R front, no help. He is suggesting a new CV boot and if this doesn't help, then a new "ring", which is around $800 - 900 I believe because it comes only as part of the axle. Message 8187 looks like a similar problem. Suggestions here? Thanks!
  • pschiffepschiffe Member Posts: 373
    Phillip, I suggest you get a second opinion from a Lexus or Toyota dealer who may be more familiar with this ABS system.

    Pete :)
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Are your really feeling the ABS "throbbing" of the brake pedal, is ABS really activating, or are you hearing the failure of the right front CV joint?

    "Suggesting a new CV boot..."

    Does that by any chance mean the right front CV boot is visually defective, leaking lubricant, maybe?

    If the CV joint isn't fully enclosed, protected, by the boot it will not take long for the CV itself to fail.

    CV joint failure during a tight or accelerating turn might sound very much like ABS activation.

    Additionally a failing right front CV joint might very well result in the right front wheel, especially so in a tight or accelerating turn, slowing faster during braking as opposed to the opposite wheel.

    Remember that in a right turn the right wheel is already turning slower than the left so during braking the ABS may already be on the "cusp" of seeing wheel skid.
  • phillip6phillip6 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the suggestions. The mechanic did not mention visual problems with the CV boot. The mechanic has driven the vehicle and also states that it is the ABS really activating during turning R and braking at about 20 - 25 mph.

    Interesting observation though that a failing R front CV joint might activate the ABS. Thank you.
  • phillip6phillip6 Member Posts: 3
    By the way, if the CV joint is failing or fails, what should I notice? Thank you.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    I can think of NO reason why a mechanic would suggest changing a CV boot absent a visual indication of failure.

    The CV joint is packed with grease and if the boot is compromised that grease will be compromised with roadway water and dirt. Most common indication of failure is the grease will get "slung" out and show on surfaces around the leak point.

    A failing, failed, CV joint will sound "krunching" in a really tight turn even at a fairly low speed.
  • kurt10kurt10 Member Posts: 2
    My 2000 RX300 has a problem at 69,000 miles. I just took a trip from Albuquerque to Denver and everything went fine. The day after the trip my transmission failed 1 mile from my home. It would shift into all gears but there was no movement in any direction. The dealer wanted $4000 to fix because of a "blown transmission". I had the car towed to my car mechanic who pulled the transmission pan, cleaned the screen and now it is running fine($200). Shouldn't Lexus be fixing this problem?
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Lexus, and Toyota, has its collective head buried in the sand.

    FWD and F/AWD transaxles have had various trouble symptoms indicating a serious design problem/flaw beginning with the introduction of the RX series and continuing to this day across the board.
  • gitmogitmo Member Posts: 23
    Hello.
    Is your car an all wheel drive (awd) or front wheel drive only?
    Thanks
  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Posts: 0
    I have a 2002 RX300. Checked the xmission fluid at 30K. Very, very dirty. Now change every 25K. Highly recommend that interval. Don't know why it gets dirty so fast. Maybe due to high RPM at highway speeds. Change synthetic oil every 4k. Now have 95k, no problems. Oil is still nice yellow color at the 4k intervals.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    I'm willing to bet that your ATF wasn't dirty so much as BURNED due to being overheated again and again.

    That's what was wrong with mine, AWD 2001 RX300, at only 40,000 miles.
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