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Lexus RX 300

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  • TJS2222TJS2222 Member Posts: 1
    I know this has been a topic of pasts posts, but I have not seen anything recently. There is a buzzing sound that starts when the ignition key is inserted when cold. It will continue until the car is started and will not repeat when restarted or the engine is warm. I've worked with my local dealer and the relay that seemed to eliminate the noise when pulled was replaced. New relay, same problem! Any ideas out there? My dealer, although very cooperative, cannot seem to solve my problem. Thanks!
  • la4meadla4mead Member Posts: 347
    My '99 has always made a similar noise. When the key is inserted but not turned and the engine not started, there is a faint, hushed sound of what I assume is the security system accepting the digital code and allowing an EFI pump to run. It sounds like a very faint, muted click and whirr, but could easily be interpreted as a buzz because it's so faint. It does this every time, but I rarely leave the key in ignition without starting the car, so I thought it was the normal operation of a dampened, very quiet, smooth fuel pump used for the EFI.

    Next time you're near a GM pickup or truck-based SUV (for example), take a listen. The pump is so loud you can hear it with the engine running.

    I don't know if yours is the same. I always assumed what I heard in a quiet garage was a normal sound. I'm curious if it's what you're describing.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    What you're most likely hearing is the ABS pumpmotor starting up to bring the "reserve" brake pressure up to the correct level. If the vehicle has not been run for a few hours the pressure will almost always have leaked down.
  • la4meadla4mead Member Posts: 347
    There's that, too. I thought the ABS pump was the muted "squish" sound after you start pulling forward. It sounds like hydraulics re-pressurizing, I couldn't describe that as a buzz.

    Then there's the mechanical sound of four clacks from the disc brakes after backing and pulling forward to brake the first time. But in any case, those noises do not sound abnormal.

    And the mechanical squeal of the way, way-too-aggressive audible wear sensors on the stock brake pads is what I find really annoying (and not my idea of Lexus-like). They give a nasty scritchy-scratchy-scraping sound way, way too early. Like after only about 10,000 miles (or so) out of 60-70,000 miles of life easily, just to get you so annoyed that you have the brakes replaced long before the lining is worn (just so the car runs quiet again). Then it happens all over again after too little wear. But it's not a buzz, either.
  • theozzfactortheozzfactor Member Posts: 23
    Am aware this is a wrong place to post this question, but am inquisitive. Is it required to wait till the check engine light goes off until we start the vehicle? Am talking about two stages in ignition. First stage, the check engine light comes on; and second, start the engine. Am just wondering whether is it really necessary to wait until the first stage gets done (check engine goes off) before starting the car?
    Thanks
  • la4meadla4mead Member Posts: 347
    I never thought about waiting until the fuel pressure is ready (after the check) on the RX. That's a good question. And I don't recall it from the manual. Just don't touch the accelerator when starting.

    However, my fuel-injected Suzuki motorcycle calls for waiting for the check to complete (the dials move up and down and the display clears) and you hear the fuel pump pressurize and the fuel pump stops before you start the engine. Otherwise the engine will stumble. But that's never an issue when I start the RX from cold.

    But my RX sits in the garage instead of everyday use. So when I turn the key, I purposely don't want it to start on the first crank anyway, just to get some oil pumping before it kicks to life. The '99's start with a fast idle which was eliminated in the later model years. Even with synthetic oil, fast idle when the engine's cold (and before good oil pressure) can't be good for it.
  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Posts: 0
    Both of the above lights came simultaneously. 2002 RX300 with 118k.

    Haven't had time to look into it yet with a mechanic. Just wondering if anyone else had this happen around the same mileage. Car drives fine. Doubt that it is a service soon light, but don't know.

    Ken
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    VSC is simply a default condition with a CEL. Fix the CEL problem and the VSC fault light will extinguish.

    Most common cause for a CEL is a loose gas cap or the cap having been removed but without adding fuel.
  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Posts: 0
    Thanks wwest,

    I will check that. Just no time now to get into it.

    Ken
  • theozzfactortheozzfactor Member Posts: 23
    Hi all (la4mead or wwest)

    My RX300 2002 suddenly isn't starting this morning.All the initial lights comes up which means there is nothing wrong with the battery (hopefully) but it just gives a kind of choking noise after that. It has been pretty cold out here for past few days (you guys would have heard about the ice storm/freezing rain). One option is to tow the vehicle to a lexus dealer. Any other suggestions? Fast reply is appreciated.
    Thanks :sick:
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Remove the battery connections and clean and burnish the battery posts and connectors.

    It is not unusual that the connections are good enough for low current flow but not enough for the high level of flow required by the starter motor.
  • la4meadla4mead Member Posts: 347
    "All the initial lights comes up which means there is nothing wrong with the battery (hopefully) but it just gives a kind of choking noise after that."

    The power required to run the lights, etc is much, much lower than what is required to turn a starter motor. It is entirely likely there is enough battery voltage to allow instrumentation and lights to work, but not enough amperage to crank a motor. You might be describing a battery failure. I'm not sure about the choking noise.

    Does the starter turn the motor freely at a normal speed?

    I would try jumping it with a known good battery, preferably an idling motor. Connect the cables carefully. The tow truck should be able to do this. If it starts from a jump, you may want to consider replacing the battery.

    Let us know how it goes.
  • la4meadla4mead Member Posts: 347
    Actually, WWest is right to check the corrosion on the terminals first. Any auto parts store (or Walmart) sells tools to do this yourself if you want, and it needs to be done on a regular basis.

    Be careful not to get the corrosion (or anything from the battery) on yourself or other parts of the car. When it's not freezing out, you can use products to thoroughly clean and protect the terminals. The cleaning products require thorough rinsing with a hose, so skip those for now.

    For now, just remove the cable clamps by loosening the bolt, then use a screwdriver to widen the clamp to loosen it's grip (and a little wiggling) and use a rough wire brush (battery brush) to clean off corrosion, then re-seat the cables tightly. Be careful around the connections and cables. Don't drop any tools where they can touch both terminals (that would be really bad) and don't get any stuff on you or other parts of the car. It's no surprise battery corrosion is corrosive and will burn through paint and/or cause stains.
  • theozzfactortheozzfactor Member Posts: 23
    Thanks wwest and la4mead for the prompt reply. What exactly is happening is the lights comes on as soon as I turn the key, but the lights stays on instead of going off (the vehicle is not with me but with my father who is reporting over phone :D )

    My dad also switched on the A/C with fan in full blast and everything was ok it seems (if this piece of info will help).

    My only concern is will the lights (all the lights) stay on if there is something wrong with the battery?

    I guess I will have to leave early from work to check the battery connections.
  • la4meadla4mead Member Posts: 347
    ..."My only concern is will the lights (all the lights) stay on if there is something wrong with the battery?..."

    With the motor running or does the motor start and the warning lights stay on? If so, that's a different story.

    If the starter motor won't start the engine, then I'd check the battery cables and/or if it starts from a jump.

    P.S. The blower, headlights, horn, etc. all draw much less power than the starter. Blower working doesn't indicate a battery or connection that will carry the amperage needed to run the starter.
  • theozzfactortheozzfactor Member Posts: 23
    ..?With the motor running or does the motor start and the warning lights stay on? If so, that's a different story. ?

    No the motor doesn't start. Just the whirring/clanking noise (according to my dad) when the key is turned all the way.

    Yes, the only option is to check the battery and jump start if required before calling in the towing company.

    Thanks once again. Will keep you all updated.
  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Posts: 0
    How old is the battery. Around four or more it is probably low. If it starts briefly but shuts off right away (your choking sound) spray some wd40 on the throttle linkage and rev the engine a little if it starts. I had that problem on mine last winter from road salt. Although, I had to eventually clean the throttle body. My mechanic did that.

    Hopefully you got it jumped and running and only a new battery needed. I change my batteries every 4 years no matter what. Hate to get stuck.

    Ken
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    "..just the whiffing/clanking noise.."

    "Whirring" would generally mean the starter motor bendix gear is not engaging the flywheel gear teeth.

    "Clanking"...or Clicking/"ticking"...??

    No explanation for clanking but clicking would mean poor battery connections of low battery.
  • txgal1txgal1 Member Posts: 14
    I too have the RX300, 2001 model and am at 118K miles. My check engine light and VSC light came on. I went to Auto Zone where they do free diagnostics. Got the PO174 code for bank 2. I changed the bank 2 sensor and got 30 miles and the same lights came on again. I checked hoses for leaks and don't see any. I think I should have changed the Mass Air Flow sensor instead. Now a couple hundred dollars later with the same problem, wonder if anyone else has a suggestion before I try changing out the MAF sensor.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Which bank 2 sensor did you change..??

    Whenever you change a sensor or servomotor/sensor you should always disconnect the battery for 10-15 minutes to force the engine/transaxle ECU to more quickly "re-learn" the new sensor tolerances.
  • txgal1txgal1 Member Posts: 14
    I changed the air, fuel sensor for bank 2. There is a bank 1 on one side and bank 2 on the other. I had a mechanic install it and when we picked up the car, the check engine lights were off for about 30 miles. I don't know whether he disconnected the battery or how he reset the computer. I only know the lights were off for 30 miles after we left the shop. Should I try disconnecting the battery??? I also visually looked at the mass air fuel sensor and one side of the thin filament is clean and the other side appears to have carbon build up. Do you know if there is any way to try to clean the MAF to see if that is the problem?? Should I try disconnecting the battery? Thanks for any help I can get.
  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Posts: 0
    I looked for loose hoses, but hard to do with the low temps we have been having and my work schedule lately. Did have time to run by my mechanic on way home one day and the computer said low coolant temp. Didn't ask about hoses, forgot. May be a thermostat. My heat gauge does seem lower than normal lately. I'll have to take it in maybe Thursday if I can't find anything loose. No sensor codes came up. I think there is a way to reset CE lights without disconnecting battery. There is an EFI fuse under hood it may be #13. Not sure. Remember reading something about that. That would be easier and may not require radio and clock resets.

    Ken
  • pschiffepschiffe Member Posts: 373
    I've cleaned my MAF with an aerosol product called Kwik-Kleen contact & circuit board cleaner. Worked well, I'm told dealer will only replace the MAF, not clean it. I believe I've heard carburetor cleaner could also be used.

    Pete :)

    .
  • RathaRatha Member Posts: 4
    Hi all, s.o told me that highlander is better than RX300 interm of gas saving, transmission problem, driving stability.... is that true? :confuse: thanks b4 hand for your reply. Ratha
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Not true up until "today".

    The HL with 3rd row seat capability outweighs the RX.

    The latest HL is now available with a 187HP I4 but not with F/awd.

    On the other hand the Venza (same weight as the HL) can be purchased with the new I4 AND F/awd.

    Strange.

    If you're not in a great hurry I suspect the new I4 will soon be available with DFI.

    2011..??

    All Toyota and Lexus FWD and F/awd vehicles still have the 1-2 second "re-acceleration" downshift delay/hesitation. But now being partially overcome by some predictive firmware added to the transaxle upshift logic. The fallacy is that this feature cannot work unless the driver is aware, upon a lift-throttle event, of their next motion on the gas pedal.

    The Mazda CX-7 might be a good alternative to the Venza if you mill the engine head to get the 12:1 compression ration common for a DFI engine and "wire" the turbo wastegate fully open.
  • dlsmith1dlsmith1 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 rx300 with 57,000 miles ( original owner) noticed a whinning noise on cold days. Took it to Lexus dealership today. They say I should replace accessories belts ($250) and timing belt also for a total of $650.00. Visual inspection he says the belts are tight but they are probably hard from age which is causing the noise. Didn't show cracks on the surface. Should I replace and also should I go ahead and replace timing belt? Is this a good price? Additional could it be anything else ie powersteering low or dirty fluid causing the noise. Notice no difference in driving so far. Thanks
  • chikoochikoo Member Posts: 3,008
    try the belt conditioner spray from Autozone. Cost 2 bucks.
    If that helps, it does indicate that the belts are the cause.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    My '01 RX300 now has ~75,000 miles and none of the belts have been replaced and I don't expect to do so until one breaks.
  • chikoochikoo Member Posts: 3,008
    >and I don't expect to do so until one breaks.

    Not the best advice I would offer someone, that is unless I own a towing service and want to build up a customer base who are stranded on the side of the highway.
    Change the belts if visually they have cracks and look dried up.
  • pschiffepschiffe Member Posts: 373
    I agree, try the aerosol belt dressing, works wonders for squealing belts. Lexus recommends replacement of the timing belt at 90K miles, I don't see any reason to do it sooner!

    Pete :)
  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Posts: 0
    dlsmith1,

    Don't replace the timing belt, it should go to 120k or beyond. My 2002 is at 120k now and I will probably do it just to be safe. Forget the dealer, find a good local mechanic thru referrals, if necessary, and cut those bills in half. When you do the the timing belt do the water pump also.

    I would say it is the belt, mine did the same thing. If I remember correctly, the spray didn't help. But I would at least try it first, nothing to lose.

    FYI: I do a lot of highway miles , but this vehicle has been superb thru the 120k. Also, anyone looking for new tires, try the Michelin LTX/MS. I just put my second set on after 80k with at least 5k left. The ride is superb on them. Pricey even thru Tire Rack. But, at 80k+ longevity, well worth it.

    Ken
  • dlsmith1dlsmith1 Member Posts: 2
    Thank you both so much. I did replace the drive belts yesterday. Prior to getting your message. I found a guy in Rockville MD LXT automative. Former (16years) diagiontics manger for a Lexus dealership. Paid half the price. Found him on a lexus web chat. Thanks again for the advice. Just bought tires hope not to have to do it again soon (smile). But will also keep the water pump advice in mind.
  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Posts: 0
    Enjoy your RX

    Ken
  • toddio2toddio2 Member Posts: 2
    I just purchased the above. The previous owner drove it through an automatic car wash listening to the radio. Ripped it right off. I could get some radio but not much. I purchased a new OEM power antenna mast, disassembled the broken pieces (not much left but a bushing) and re inserted the power cable into the motor successfully. There is no antenna cable female end to connect to the male connector on the power antenna assembly. There is a power clip to the assembly and grounding machine screws, but no antenna cable back to the dash. Am I missing something?
    I am grateful for whatever response I get.
    Thank you.
    Regards,
    Toddio
  • rogerconcertinrogerconcertin Member Posts: 1
    Does this really need to be changed at 60,000 miles and can you use standard aftermarket LSD oil?
  • la4meadla4mead Member Posts: 347
    Well, do you really want to take any chances with the LSD? Clean fluid is cheap insurance. In my experience, the RX does beat up on all it's lubricants and fluids, and it's a good idea to change to fresh stuff by 60K. Use the recommended fluid, regardless of where you buy it and where you have it done. It doesn't have to be Toyota brand, but must be the same type (see owners manual?). Napa might have it or get it, but make sure it's the right type and not for generic applications. Places like AutoZone may only carry generic types.

    Mine doesn't have RWD or LSD, so I haven't changed mine. But I can't imagine it's very hard to do, and would probably do it myself.

    Are you changing the tranny fluid and PS fluid, too? Vehicles like the RX, and the RX 300 in particular, run fluids "hot" and the fluids break down and no longer efficiently work, and lots of wear results.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Only the '99 and '01 had an option for a rear LSD and if you only have 60,000 miles on one of those...

    The RX300's and (maybe) the RX350's have a VC, Viscous Clutch or Coupling, supposedly to distribute engine torque to the rear with semi-continous front wheelspin/slip.

    For '01 and after TC, Traction Control, is used to make the VC pretty much totally non-functional so it was dropped entirely for the RX330 product run. As to the RX350 Lexus marketing materials state that it has a VC again but the factory service/shop manuals do not bare this out.

    In any case the VC fluid is hermetically sealed within the clutch case and cannot be serviced. If you're asking about the PTO lubricating fluid in which the VC runs then there is NEVER a need for changing that fluid, as indicated in your owners manual, since there is no stress within the PTO that would warrant same.

    I now have ~75,000 miles on my '01 F/awd RX300 and nothing has been done under the factory recommended scheduled maintenance requirments other than oil and filter, air and oil, changes.

    In order to test the functionality of the VC in my '01 on a 4 wheel dyno I had to disable TC and even with than no more than 25% of the engine torque was routed to the rear driveline.

    Which is probably why the 2010 RX350 has now adopted the more functional F/awd system the Ford Escape/Marinerand the Mazda Tribute/CX-7.
  • txgal1txgal1 Member Posts: 14
    I bought an "01 RX300. It has 120,000 miles now. Don't know what has been changed except a few sensors. Should I be changing the fluids you are talking about and what are they? Appreciate your reply
  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Posts: 0
    I have a 2002 RX300 with 126k

    I want to do the timing belt and water pump.

    It runs great, so is there anything I should have them do while things are apart. For example: starter, alternator.

    What is the mileage most of you are getting on those two items?

    I am not worried about plugs and tune up yet since it runs fine.

    Ken
  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Posts: 0
    This issue is resolved!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    Ken
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Which issue was that and how did you resolve it?

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • la4meadla4mead Member Posts: 347
    I was wondering the same thing...

    How did you resolve your issue? :confuse:
  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Posts: 0
    It was post 9321.

    I got better response after the resolved post than the original one. lol

    Not really a solution, rather a decision to go ahead and do the belt and pump now. And wait on the starter and alternator.

    Should have just said what I was going to do rather than resolved, sorry.

    Ken
  • sailsouthsailsouth Member Posts: 1
    does anyone know where i can find a diagram for the rx300 dash-i want to remove the radio so i may attach a fm connector for my sirius radio
  • tsabtsab Member Posts: 2
    Im looking for my 1st car and have enjoyed test driving the 1999 - 2000 rx 300's. Most Ive looked at are around 120-130k miles. What do I need to be aware of besides potential transmission failure? Is this a good first car? How long did the 99-00 last you? And for thoose of you who had to replace the transmission, how much was the shop bill?
  • txgal1txgal1 Member Posts: 14
    I bought a 2001 RX300 in May of 08. The only problem I have had was with a sensor which I replaced. I haven't heard or had any transmission problems. I know the timing belt is due to be changed and that is about a $700 job which usually also replaces the water pump while they have it off. I would find out before you buy if it is original parts as in timing belt, sensors, ect., because anything you have done on a Lexus is very expensive esp. if it is done at a dealer. Most people sell them at 120 or 130,000 miles as that is when you need to start replacing the original facory parts. I may be incorrect but I believe you can tell if they are the original factory parts as they are color coded. Hope this helps!
    Laura
  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Posts: 0
    Ditto on Laura's comments.

    My 2002 is still running as brand new.

    127k and I just did timing belt and water pump. $450 at a good local mechanic.

    Pay close attn to the xmission changes. See if they have records. I do mine every 25k and it needs it that often.

    Ken
  • txgal1txgal1 Member Posts: 14
    Ken what do you mean "pay close attn to the xmission changes?? Are you talking about changing the fluid regularly?
    Thanks,
    Laura
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    As of the RX330 series DBW is used to somewhat alleviate the potential for transaxle failures.

    $3200 seems to be the "bottom" for a rebuilt transaxle other than Ebay.
  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Posts: 0
    Laura,

    Yes! On my first check of my transmission around 25k, my mechanic said it looked burnt. They run at high temps and I firmly believe in changing (not necessarily flushing) it every 25k. I run castrol synthetic oil and change it every 5k. The oil is still light and clean after 25k. I don't know if they have maintenance records to verify these intervals on the car you like. But, would recommend asking. These are great vehicles and I plan on seeing 300k on mine. other than routine maintenance and cleaning out the IAC at 100k (I believe that is right term) it has been perfect thru now 128k. I have also found the higher end Michelin tires run great on this car and I got 85k out of my last set.

    Good Luck,

    Ken
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