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Comments
Next time you're near a GM pickup or truck-based SUV (for example), take a listen. The pump is so loud you can hear it with the engine running.
I don't know if yours is the same. I always assumed what I heard in a quiet garage was a normal sound. I'm curious if it's what you're describing.
Then there's the mechanical sound of four clacks from the disc brakes after backing and pulling forward to brake the first time. But in any case, those noises do not sound abnormal.
And the mechanical squeal of the way, way-too-aggressive audible wear sensors on the stock brake pads is what I find really annoying (and not my idea of Lexus-like). They give a nasty scritchy-scratchy-scraping sound way, way too early. Like after only about 10,000 miles (or so) out of 60-70,000 miles of life easily, just to get you so annoyed that you have the brakes replaced long before the lining is worn (just so the car runs quiet again). Then it happens all over again after too little wear. But it's not a buzz, either.
Thanks
However, my fuel-injected Suzuki motorcycle calls for waiting for the check to complete (the dials move up and down and the display clears) and you hear the fuel pump pressurize and the fuel pump stops before you start the engine. Otherwise the engine will stumble. But that's never an issue when I start the RX from cold.
But my RX sits in the garage instead of everyday use. So when I turn the key, I purposely don't want it to start on the first crank anyway, just to get some oil pumping before it kicks to life. The '99's start with a fast idle which was eliminated in the later model years. Even with synthetic oil, fast idle when the engine's cold (and before good oil pressure) can't be good for it.
Haven't had time to look into it yet with a mechanic. Just wondering if anyone else had this happen around the same mileage. Car drives fine. Doubt that it is a service soon light, but don't know.
Ken
Most common cause for a CEL is a loose gas cap or the cap having been removed but without adding fuel.
I will check that. Just no time now to get into it.
Ken
My RX300 2002 suddenly isn't starting this morning.All the initial lights comes up which means there is nothing wrong with the battery (hopefully) but it just gives a kind of choking noise after that. It has been pretty cold out here for past few days (you guys would have heard about the ice storm/freezing rain). One option is to tow the vehicle to a lexus dealer. Any other suggestions? Fast reply is appreciated.
Thanks :sick:
It is not unusual that the connections are good enough for low current flow but not enough for the high level of flow required by the starter motor.
The power required to run the lights, etc is much, much lower than what is required to turn a starter motor. It is entirely likely there is enough battery voltage to allow instrumentation and lights to work, but not enough amperage to crank a motor. You might be describing a battery failure. I'm not sure about the choking noise.
Does the starter turn the motor freely at a normal speed?
I would try jumping it with a known good battery, preferably an idling motor. Connect the cables carefully. The tow truck should be able to do this. If it starts from a jump, you may want to consider replacing the battery.
Let us know how it goes.
Be careful not to get the corrosion (or anything from the battery) on yourself or other parts of the car. When it's not freezing out, you can use products to thoroughly clean and protect the terminals. The cleaning products require thorough rinsing with a hose, so skip those for now.
For now, just remove the cable clamps by loosening the bolt, then use a screwdriver to widen the clamp to loosen it's grip (and a little wiggling) and use a rough wire brush (battery brush) to clean off corrosion, then re-seat the cables tightly. Be careful around the connections and cables. Don't drop any tools where they can touch both terminals (that would be really bad) and don't get any stuff on you or other parts of the car. It's no surprise battery corrosion is corrosive and will burn through paint and/or cause stains.
My dad also switched on the A/C with fan in full blast and everything was ok it seems (if this piece of info will help).
My only concern is will the lights (all the lights) stay on if there is something wrong with the battery?
I guess I will have to leave early from work to check the battery connections.
With the motor running or does the motor start and the warning lights stay on? If so, that's a different story.
If the starter motor won't start the engine, then I'd check the battery cables and/or if it starts from a jump.
P.S. The blower, headlights, horn, etc. all draw much less power than the starter. Blower working doesn't indicate a battery or connection that will carry the amperage needed to run the starter.
No the motor doesn't start. Just the whirring/clanking noise (according to my dad) when the key is turned all the way.
Yes, the only option is to check the battery and jump start if required before calling in the towing company.
Thanks once again. Will keep you all updated.
Hopefully you got it jumped and running and only a new battery needed. I change my batteries every 4 years no matter what. Hate to get stuck.
Ken
"Whirring" would generally mean the starter motor bendix gear is not engaging the flywheel gear teeth.
"Clanking"...or Clicking/"ticking"...??
No explanation for clanking but clicking would mean poor battery connections of low battery.
Whenever you change a sensor or servomotor/sensor you should always disconnect the battery for 10-15 minutes to force the engine/transaxle ECU to more quickly "re-learn" the new sensor tolerances.
Ken
Pete
.
The HL with 3rd row seat capability outweighs the RX.
The latest HL is now available with a 187HP I4 but not with F/awd.
On the other hand the Venza (same weight as the HL) can be purchased with the new I4 AND F/awd.
Strange.
If you're not in a great hurry I suspect the new I4 will soon be available with DFI.
2011..??
All Toyota and Lexus FWD and F/awd vehicles still have the 1-2 second "re-acceleration" downshift delay/hesitation. But now being partially overcome by some predictive firmware added to the transaxle upshift logic. The fallacy is that this feature cannot work unless the driver is aware, upon a lift-throttle event, of their next motion on the gas pedal.
The Mazda CX-7 might be a good alternative to the Venza if you mill the engine head to get the 12:1 compression ration common for a DFI engine and "wire" the turbo wastegate fully open.
If that helps, it does indicate that the belts are the cause.
Not the best advice I would offer someone, that is unless I own a towing service and want to build up a customer base who are stranded on the side of the highway.
Change the belts if visually they have cracks and look dried up.
Pete
Don't replace the timing belt, it should go to 120k or beyond. My 2002 is at 120k now and I will probably do it just to be safe. Forget the dealer, find a good local mechanic thru referrals, if necessary, and cut those bills in half. When you do the the timing belt do the water pump also.
I would say it is the belt, mine did the same thing. If I remember correctly, the spray didn't help. But I would at least try it first, nothing to lose.
FYI: I do a lot of highway miles , but this vehicle has been superb thru the 120k. Also, anyone looking for new tires, try the Michelin LTX/MS. I just put my second set on after 80k with at least 5k left. The ride is superb on them. Pricey even thru Tire Rack. But, at 80k+ longevity, well worth it.
Ken
Ken
I am grateful for whatever response I get.
Thank you.
Regards,
Toddio
Mine doesn't have RWD or LSD, so I haven't changed mine. But I can't imagine it's very hard to do, and would probably do it myself.
Are you changing the tranny fluid and PS fluid, too? Vehicles like the RX, and the RX 300 in particular, run fluids "hot" and the fluids break down and no longer efficiently work, and lots of wear results.
The RX300's and (maybe) the RX350's have a VC, Viscous Clutch or Coupling, supposedly to distribute engine torque to the rear with semi-continous front wheelspin/slip.
For '01 and after TC, Traction Control, is used to make the VC pretty much totally non-functional so it was dropped entirely for the RX330 product run. As to the RX350 Lexus marketing materials state that it has a VC again but the factory service/shop manuals do not bare this out.
In any case the VC fluid is hermetically sealed within the clutch case and cannot be serviced. If you're asking about the PTO lubricating fluid in which the VC runs then there is NEVER a need for changing that fluid, as indicated in your owners manual, since there is no stress within the PTO that would warrant same.
I now have ~75,000 miles on my '01 F/awd RX300 and nothing has been done under the factory recommended scheduled maintenance requirments other than oil and filter, air and oil, changes.
In order to test the functionality of the VC in my '01 on a 4 wheel dyno I had to disable TC and even with than no more than 25% of the engine torque was routed to the rear driveline.
Which is probably why the 2010 RX350 has now adopted the more functional F/awd system the Ford Escape/Marinerand the Mazda Tribute/CX-7.
I want to do the timing belt and water pump.
It runs great, so is there anything I should have them do while things are apart. For example: starter, alternator.
What is the mileage most of you are getting on those two items?
I am not worried about plugs and tune up yet since it runs fine.
Ken
Ken
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
How did you resolve your issue? :confuse:
I got better response after the resolved post than the original one. lol
Not really a solution, rather a decision to go ahead and do the belt and pump now. And wait on the starter and alternator.
Should have just said what I was going to do rather than resolved, sorry.
Ken
Laura
My 2002 is still running as brand new.
127k and I just did timing belt and water pump. $450 at a good local mechanic.
Pay close attn to the xmission changes. See if they have records. I do mine every 25k and it needs it that often.
Ken
Thanks,
Laura
$3200 seems to be the "bottom" for a rebuilt transaxle other than Ebay.
Yes! On my first check of my transmission around 25k, my mechanic said it looked burnt. They run at high temps and I firmly believe in changing (not necessarily flushing) it every 25k. I run castrol synthetic oil and change it every 5k. The oil is still light and clean after 25k. I don't know if they have maintenance records to verify these intervals on the car you like. But, would recommend asking. These are great vehicles and I plan on seeing 300k on mine. other than routine maintenance and cleaning out the IAC at 100k (I believe that is right term) it has been perfect thru now 128k. I have also found the higher end Michelin tires run great on this car and I got 85k out of my last set.
Good Luck,
Ken