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Lexus RX 300

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Comments

  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    That's one of the HVAC servomotors, probably the reheat/remix "blend" door.
  • txgal1txgal1 Posts: 14
    My Lexus has been doing the same noise since I bought it. At first I thought an animal was stuck somewhere in the dash!! I too thought it was the CD changer as it was missing the tray so I bought one and it is still making that noise. Is that expensive to have fixed??
  • dashworthdashworth Posts: 6
    Wow, same thing here! Is there a way this can be confirmed before going to the shop? How much $$$ should I take with me :-)
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    If the noise stops temporarily when you make a large change in the cabin temperature setpoint then it is the blend door servomotor.
  • lizzylinlizzylin Posts: 1
    edited August 2011
    I have the same problem and my mechanic says it is the mode selector for the a/c - heater. It's around $500-600 to repair here in the DC area. I'm going to turn up the radio so I can't hear it and live with it until it quits working. :)
  • jimnphxjimnphx Posts: 1
    edited August 2011
    Hello,

    Title says it all. Not sure if it is happening while I am driving. The beep is not as loud as the beep when I engage the alarm but it is a similar sound.
    The only thing I can notice that is an "alert" is my rear light out warning is lit. I checked all my lights and they appear to be on.
    Is this even related?

    Thx

    Jim
  • I have a 2001 Lexus RX300. I have been fighting it for a couple of weeks. OBd2 codes show lean on banks etc. Car will start jerking, gas mileage will drop to 4-6mpg...I understand that the fuel pressure regulator is mainly the cause. Car has 106,000 miles on it. Problem is I need a picture showing me where the regulator is located AND where the pressure relief valve is (schrader?) Can someone please help. Cleaned the Mass Air Flow Sensor,
    Codes indicate replaciing all fuel sensors...Can someone please help??
    Thanks,
    Denny
  • dabang2dabang2 Posts: 1
    Hi I have the same noise from so long. I noticed that the noise only comes in Summer months. In the cooler temperatures it is fine. Just last week during the long drive for about 300 miles the noise changed to a noise like a radio noise by the power lines. It comes for little bit and stops and starts anytime even while starting the car.

    Does anyone know the solution to this problem?
  • I know it's been many years for you but was there ever a resolution to this situation. The engine in my 2001 RX300 just seized also (150,000 miles). Checked the oil a week ago, it was 1 qt low, added the quart thought all was fine. Took the car on a 2.5 hr trip, ran great all the way, all of a sudden heard a clicking noise under the hood and then everything died, pulled over, wouldn't restart, though maybe battery or alternator, put new battery in and it started but was very rough, had the car towed and mechanic just called and told me the engine seized due to no oil, told him that it was checked last week but I think he thinks I don't know how to read a dipstick (I am female afterall). I don't think they opened up the whole engine just checked oil level and oil pan which had metal shards in it. But no lights or warning came on at all, no noise from the engine other than the clicking just before it went. Could this be a related problem? I bought the car 2nd hand at 97K and have all previous maintenance records, I do my own oil changes so no "official" records for that, only other issue with the car was the P330 light for the knock sensor in bank 2 that needed to be replaced, which was scheduled for this week. Any ideas would be GREATLY appreciated!!!!
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Another case of "kill the messenger"...

    The knock sensor wasn't bad.
  • I JUST had this problem and my friend is the service manager of my local Lexus Dealer. I have NO brake fluid leak, low fluid, or parking brake up. Mine is the sensor in the cap on the brake fluid that is bad. If you disconnect it from the Lex and see if it stops. You will need to replace this soon. It wont affect the performance but will not alert you to any problems with the fluid. I was quoted around $115 for the OEM cap. Just a toyota part. :) Hope this helps.
  • Is it possible to break down the antenna motor to remove a broken piece of the nylon gear tail?
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Yes, but not a simple task.
  • Considering to buy 2002 RX 300 with 52Kmiles from local Lexus dealer.Please advice what problem areas to look for on test drive and which service records to ask for. Thank you.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Don't.

    RX300 2001 or later expect a transaxle failure sub-100,000 miles even if the ATF is drained/flushed every 15,000 miles.

    RX330 model or better, DBW to "protect the drive train", alleviate the issue of premature transaxle failures.

    With DBW expect to randomly encounter, at the worse of all possible times, a 1-2 second re-acceleration "downshift" delay/hesitation.

    2010 RX or later if you have true need for AWD functionality. Previous RX AWD was only "pretend", for marketing purposes ONLY. '99-'00 AWD was a bit more functional than '01 to '09 but many suspect that was the causative factor for those years having a more extreme level of premature transaxle failures.
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,171
    edited November 2011
    I'd be more concerned about regular maintenance and engine oil gelling. The transmission reliability from Identifix looks good, as do the other systems in the car.

    Moderator
    Need help navigating? stever@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Eliminating the RX300 series entirely resolves the oil gelling issue. The engine design was revised by '02('01?) to alleviate that failure issue.
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,171
    That's not what I'm seeing on my link.

    Moderator
    Need help navigating? stever@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • I Have a Lexus RX300 2002 MODEL AWD that I purchased new in 2002. I had to change 2 times the rear axles due to antilock brake ring cracks (ABS sensor problem). Once I changed the rear left axle when the car was 5 years old and now the right rear axle with the same problem, I was told by Lexus that they found the problem and it is again cracked ring. This ring is sealed and I am just wondering what design is that that it always cracks.This must be some kind of a reject design by Lexus, be aware the repair is 1000$ for changing it, now I paid 2000$ for 2 rear shafts.
  • vvjainvvjain Posts: 1
    Hi
    My RX300 (2001 model) has around 110K miles. it has auto transmission (which I believe is std). While I was driving back from a long distance trip, it suddenly started having this problem. Sometimes while speeding up from low speed (30mph or less to 50+) I feel that the transmission doesn't shift from lower gears in to Drive. I see the RPM going really high and staying high as well as I can hear the engine revving in low gear. Pls suggest what could be done to fix this.

    Thanks!
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Replace/rebuild the transaxle and consider yourself lucky you got that much mileage from the first one.

    1999, 2000, 2001 RX premature, 80-100,000 miles, transaxle failure is SOP.
  • jbl85jbl85 Posts: 49
    You are so negative. On this and other boards.

    Premature Trans failures are NOT STANDARD OPERATING PROCEDURE for these first generation cars, period. Yes some folks have had their transaxles fail prematurely, but the overwhelming majority of these vehicles run well into 200, 300k, but if you listen to this guy, you'd be lead to believe every one of these cars is a complete failure.

    It's just not true. It is true however that some people aren't happy unless they're complaining about something.
  • love23love23 Posts: 1
    2001 rx300 purchased in 2005 I have had the same issue. I would bang on the dash until the noise stopped. Well the problem was a senso motor that became loose and cracked. Long story short I had the motor replaced at the dealership @ a cost of $575. I had 2 hv it replaced since I had no heat.
  • la4meadla4mead Posts: 347
    edited March 2012
    You're so right JBL, most post on this forum are only for problems or complaints, rather than "everything's OK". Some are just a bit more insistent than others. These cars certainly aren't new, so they have a track record. Many have clocked loads of miles effortlessly, and some not so much. I'm glad someone else is posting both sides.
    Thanks for your contribution.
  • jiaminjiamin Posts: 556
    My 2000 RX300 2WD has only got 67K miles. I am kind of concerned about the transmission failure. So far, the only failure is the door locks. I had dealer replace the driver side main control unit, and fixed rest myself. A few time I really abused the transmission by accelerating it like a sports car. Absolutely smooth and quiet.

    I though about trading it in for a new car, just in case it would fail soon. Now I want to keep it until it dies.

    Do you experts recommend synthetic oil for this engine (possibly less likely oil gel)?
  • la4meadla4mead Posts: 347
    edited March 2012
    Jiamin,

    If you change your oil often and maintain your cooling system properly, you are not likely to have an oil gel issue. Have you noticed an issue with yours?

    I do use full synthetic (Rotella-T 5w-50 non "Energy Saving" compliant meaning it has the old-school additive package, about $21/gallon at Walmart with OEM filter from the Toyota dealer) in mine, but you don't have to use synthetic if you change your oil before the oil condition has deteriorated. Just change it often, especially since you put such low mileage on the car.

    Oh, and don't forget transmission fluid service (don't rely on the Lexus or Toyota dealer for this), especially because you put such low mileage on your car. Every year (not longer than two). Transmission pan, front differential (shared fluid with the transmission), and if you have AWD (separate fluids), the transfer case and the rear differential, too. Smell the fluid and rub it between your fingers if you want to have an easy way to guage wear. Burned smell, metallic look are signs of wear. Change tranny fluid often in any heavy FWD platform vehicle.

    There are extensive threads on the Club Lexus owners forums on this subject, as well as transmission maintenance and DIY door lock solenoid replacements.

    Good cars are worth keeping, even as they age. Mine's 14 years, biggest complaints: handles too lazy, wish it got lots better gas mileage.

    Good luck with yours.
  • jiaminjiamin Posts: 556
    Thank you for the detailed reply.

    No, I haven't noticed anything abnormal. Compared to my 02 QX4 AWD, RX is very soft meanwhile quieter, accelerates quicker. Workmanship is noticeably better, paint is better.

    I skipped a few scheduled services, just keep doing regular oil change. Now I need to have some serious sevices to get long life out of it.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    edited March 2012
    I am of the belief that it is the RX300 F/awd system that results, primarily, in the premature transaxle failures. At least the failures seem to be more prevalent with the F/awd system.

    For the '99, '00 models a fairly robust VC, Viscous Clutch, was used, plus a mechanical LSD was available as an option. As of the '01 model year the VC was made more flaccid, mostly non-functional IMMHO, and the LSD option was dropped.

    So the '01 and later F/awd RX models became primarily simple ONE-WHEEL drive systems, with TC braking as the ONLY way to reapportion engine TORQUE to the rear drive. As of 2010 the RX got the new Venza type F/awd, a significant improvement but still no cigar.

    The cigar goes to the Honda/Acura SH-AWD system.

    So your FWD "only" RX300, especially a '00 model, may not be nearly as prone to the failure of the transaxle as would be a '99 F/awd model.
  • la4meadla4mead Posts: 347
    Funny about the mention of aging RX 300's, door lock solenoids, transmissions, and Hondas. I was talking about my RX, transmission service, and a lazy lock solenoid, and a good gearhead buddy of mine who's worked for Honda service for years and he joked with me: He said if it weren't for replacing door lock solenoids and auto transmission rebuilds on Hondas (some models aren't so "durable" either), their service department probably wouldn't be able to stay in business.

    So the early RX's had some that experienced early failures... Mine (didn't fail but) was replaced under warrantee, and had at least one door lock solenoid replaced under warrantee and one since (and needs one more, I'll do a "piggyback" universal) but that doesn't prove statistically across the board failures or worse than other models. And the new "updated" transmission (2004) is as durable and well-designed as it can be expected from ECT4OD. And no, it doesn't have any of those "lazy" up or down shifts. Just the right rear door lock that's lazy. Go figure.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    "...(some models aren't so "durable" either),..."

    There was a rather substantive design change, probable mostly in favor of FE, made in/for the transaxles to be used in the new '99 RX300. The problem was/is that there was an unforeseen flaw in the design. But it wasn't long before this new improved FE design found its way across the Toyota/Lexus product line ('01 Camry) and then onto the rest of the asian and US fleet.

    The final fix, 90% anyway, was arrived at via the adoption and use of DBW, e-throttle, to delay for 1-2 seconds the onset of rising engine torque in response to the accelerator until the transaxle could complete an upcoming downshift command.

    There was a followup firmware change made in about '08 to help reduce the instances of encountering the 1-2 second downshift delay but that still leaves us with the few instances not predictable by the firmware.
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