Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Isuzu Trooper

1…206207209211212…233

Comments

  • themthem Member Posts: 3
    What do you mean "glider" will your lightweight Trooper project go airborne?
    -----
    LOL - No, but God willing it (or perhaps an older, lighter Trooper like yours if I can find one in good shape) may be the subject of an EV conversion!

    We're still doing the research and math for feasibility, but an EV should really work for us - and we love our Trooper, so we're trying to find a way to combine the two.

    An "E-suzu" (paired with a regular Trooper for those long rides) would be great.. ;)
  • sick95troopsick95troop Member Posts: 7
    Dear CHADE,
    According to table in Chiltons manual.....code 32 is EGR system failure
    code 44 is Oxygen sensor circuit (lean exhaust indicated)

    By the way....these are the same codes I'm getting on my '95. So far, I've removed the EGR valve and cleaned it and removed the crusted area where in passes into the intake manifold. So far, no improvement, but I didn't clean the tube going from the EGR down to the exhaust manifold yet.....tomorrow!
  • sick95troopsick95troop Member Posts: 7
    I've been reading a lot of posts on this forum! Great info!

    I seem to have a common problem...the engine is "missing" at just about all RPMS, hesitates and chokes while driving. Error codes are 32 and 44 (EGR failure and O2 reading lean). So far, I have a new O2 sensor and have removed and cleaned the EGR valve and passage into the intake (but did not clean the tube going down to the exhaust). I have new plugs to install, and likely will buy new wires too.

    Question: how do you check the 3 coil packs to verify they are providing sufficient spark?
    matt
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Member Posts: 377
    I'd say if the plug is not completely dead, the coil pack is OK. The coil pack isn't likely to fail intermittenly. It either works or it doesn't. It can short out, or open up. Its a transformer which is rugged by design. Just iron and copper wire windings. No semi-conductors there to fail. I had a similar problem after installing NEW plugs. The engine would miss fairly consistently. I tried several things to correct the problem, but ended up changing the plugs out with NGK plugs and the problem went away! For some reason it didn't like the Autolite plugs. I suspected a coil pack at 1st or a bad wire or boot, but nope it was the plugs.
  • chadechade Member Posts: 14
    sick95troop,

    I picked up my truck tonight and to my surprise it is running pretty good. The lean running is gone, and when I step on it there is no black smoke and no bogging. The mechanic simply disconnected the O2 sensor. Im not sure if thats bad for the truck but it solved my problem. I did replace my original sensor with an aftermarket and thats what could have caused my problem. A new O2 is $600 CDN and i simply do not have the extra cash. I hope this helps you and keep in touch and let me know whats going on,

    Chade
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    If I remember correctly a long time ago I was told of a problem with tripple ignition coils in the Chevy Lumina car 3.1L engine (Trooper 3.2L tripple coils are a GM part nearly identical) that the coild would get some sort of crack and develope a partial short that reduced the spark energy for a while causing poor performance then eventually would go completely shorted.
  • beer4799beer4799 Member Posts: 23
    Greetings all, after 5 years and 146k on my 2000 Trooper, she is going up for sale locally. I have picked up a '05 Honda Pilot w/Nav at a good price and hopefully it will be as dependable as my Trooper has been. A/T replace at 111K under warranty, starter at 136K and replaced some wiring in the rear that had corroded. The only other things replaced were 2 HL bulbs and 2 TL bulbs. Truly remarkable service from a very rugged & dependable vehicle. I never went off road with it like some so perhaps I didn't need the Trooper in the first place, but, I really enjoyed the vehicle day in and day out. They are not worth much (with high mileage) as a trade so I will sell it myself. Some lucky person is going to get a really well built and well maintained Trooper! Cheers to all!!
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Shoot me an e-mail if you get a chance on your truck.

    -mike
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Make sure all the doors are closed, and the hood. It will beep like that if one or more of the doors are adjar (or if the plunger for it is malfunctioning and it thinks a door is open)

    -mike
  • chadechade Member Posts: 14
    sicktroop!

    your aftermarket O2 sensor is your problem! MY mechanic plugged my aftermarket O2 and my truck is running better than ever! The 32 and 44 codes are gone! I have a 13 until I decide to spend the money to get the proper part! This is the best day ever! Thank you to everyone who has helped me out!

    P.S. Has anyone replaced the O2 and what company should I purchase from?
  • sick95troopsick95troop Member Posts: 7
    Chade,

    I'd like to try it, I've got nothing to lose......I wonder if he just disconnected it or if he jumped the wire. Does anyone know if this would cause any other problems????

    After cleaning my EGR thoroughly, I haven't seen the check engine light come on. However, it isn't running any better yet. New plugs and wires are next.
  • chadechade Member Posts: 14
    sicktroop.

    if you take a look at the sensor you will notice that there is a connector about 3 inches from the sensor itself, all you do is disconnect that connector but leave the sensor plugged into the exhaust pipe. cover the connector with a small plastic bag or covering and put a plastic tie strap around the bag and connector and it will stay clean and dry. New plugs and wires should help but im almost 90% positive that your problem is the aftermarket O2 sensor.

    You will notice that once you disconnect the sensor you will most likely get a code 13 which means an O2 sensor cirsuit problem bacuse you have disconnected it. The other codes should disappear and your trooper will be back to normal. I wouldnt keep driving it the way it is because my mechanic told me that the leaking fuel injectors which cost me 2300$ were a result of the faulty O2 sensor. Good Luck.
  • lmoff40lmoff40 Member Posts: 1
    My 99 Trooper with 49K miles has been idling fast when first starting then it will idle low and almost stall after sitting in park for a few seconds. It also stalls every once in a while after the engine warms up. The CEL is on and I took it to the dealer and he replaced the air intake gasket ($321), the PCM (under warranty, dealer said it was not I called Isuzu), the fuel pump ($651) and I am still getting the same codes. 171 too lean bank 1; 174 too lean bank 2; and 507 idle control system RPM high. I do not know what to do next and the dealer seems to just be guessing at the solution. Please let me know what you think. Thank you.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Sounds like the Intake Manifold Gasket.

    -mike
  • isuzugirl1isuzugirl1 Member Posts: 2
    My 1996 trooper also has the key stuck in the ignition. No amount of shifting in and out of park will fix it. A dealer mechanic told me that the cylinder going out is a common problem with these cars. There is also an inhibitor switch which senses when your car is in park to allow the key to turn and be removed.
    What happened with your car? Did replacing the cylinder do the trick?
  • isuzugirl1isuzugirl1 Member Posts: 2
    Has anyone else out there had problems getting the key out of the ignition of a trooper? The key won't turn into the position that it needs to be in to get it out. A mechanic wants to replace the ignition cylinder, but couldn't it be the sensor that tells the car it's in park?
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    I had a slight problem getting the key out on my 1984 Trooper but never on my 1995 or 2001 Troopers. The cause of the problem was parking with a load on the steering. Somehow there is a force on the key if there is a load on the steering. To cause this problem on purpose, if I can remember correctly from 20 Trooper years ago, park with the steering wheel pulled hard all the way to one side then turn off the engine and the key will be hard to remove. To get out of this situation, turn the steering wheel against the same stop and while pulling on the steering wheel remove the key. To prevent the situation, take care to have no load on the steering when you park.
  • beer4799beer4799 Member Posts: 23
    I once heard from a South American fellow that Troopers were well respected in South America as vehicles that can go where the Fords and Chevies can't. He said they were known as the "King of the Hill" for being tough and dependable. As I made the rounds to trade in my Trooper and found out (as I suspected) that it was not worth a great deal to a dealer, I told myself, I need someone from SA to look at this thing. I parked it on my street with a sign and a few days later I get a call from a gentleman who originally hailed from SA. He looked at the truck (mint condition), we agreed on a price and he bought it the next day. It looks my 2000 "S" will be bound for SA for one of the gentleman's relatives. Sometimes the right seller meets up with the right buyer and everybody wins. The moral is don't try and trade your troopers. Run them to the end or sell to someone who can appreciate it for the fine truck it is.
    Cheers to All !!
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    That's a good angle; there's a craigslist.org for Capetown now so people in NA may be able to sell them online and get them shipped and come out ahead.

    Steve, Host
  • laerylaery Member Posts: 2
    I just purchased a 1990 isuzu trooper. 4 cyl. when I try to start it the engine will rev up then die. If I hold the throttle wide open and try to start it, it will rev past 4000 rpm then stay running. sometimes it takes a few tries to get it to start. any help would be great. thank you
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    Folks,

    Give me your feedback on what is a fair price for my 1998 Trooper. This beloved vehicle has served our family very well. 114k miles, some typical door dings. Very solid mechanically, except for the disconcertingly high oil consumption - currently a quart every 800 miles or so. Interior looks very solid, with some scuffs and scrapes in the cargo area. Everything works.

    It's a Performance Package model, which in 1998 model year meant 6 disc in-dash CD changer and Torque on Demand system.

    The Michelin LTX tires have a good 30-50k miles left on them.

    I've already delivered the truck to my parents but have not decided on a value. Based on the above, what would you recommend as a fair price? I was thinking between $4000 and $5000.

    The driver's power window is broken (glass has fallen out of the regulator?) and there's a small dent above the left rear brakelight. I'm going to pay a shop to fix the window because my own fix attempts didn't hold. The dent, my parents don't care about.

    Looking forward to your feedback.

    I'm sad to see my Trooper go, but at least I can still drive it when we visit my parents.
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    Fair - I think $4000-4500 is fair.

    However your parents? I don't know, I would unload it to my dad for free or maybe like $2k (if he felt obligated to pay me something). There could be a big repair in the near future for your 98, and then it is $4k + big repair = more like $6k.

    I recognize everyone isn't in the same financial position, but I owe them a lot more for college.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    I know what you are saying. My Dad has always liked our Trooper. We were going to sell it and he said they would buy it. They don't expect us to sell it to them for a $1000+ less than we could get on the market. We aren't poor but I have no desire to take $3000 for the truck if I can get $4500 for it-- just using some example numbers.

    Also, I got a full tuition scholarship so my parents spent only about $2000 a year on my schooling for room & board-- so I helped them out quite a bit since they were prepared to pay for 4 years of my college!
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I just sold my 2000 to my dad for $5K Like you I get to drive it every so often too.

    -mike
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    Thanks paisan. I haven't been keeping up on these boards -- what are you driving nowadays? Still got the old SVX?
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Traded in the SVX on an 04 Armada. Sold the Trooper to my dad.

    So now I'm basically down to my '94 Legacy Turbo, '04 Armada, and the '96 Impreza Race Car.

    -mike
  • thirstytrooperthirstytrooper Member Posts: 1
    Did you ever figure out why the great oil consumption?
    I have the same story, '99 3.5L Performance that is DRINKING oil...I had the engine light come on twice and from what I am reading in different places, I am very lucky it hasn't locked up! The first time I put 4 qts. in before it was even close to full. It now has 84K miles, started drinking it around 76K.
    Now I check it about every other day. I drive about 80 miles a day with it.
    Same story, no smoke, not a drop on the ground...very baffling!

    Anyone have any answers? :confuse:
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    90k on mine and it takes about 1Q every 2000 miles or so since day 1. No drops on the ground, no excessive burning in the tailpipe. Not sure where it goes, I'm guessing it may get stuck in the Cats?

    -mike
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    My oil consumption on my 2001 3.5L 5-speed has reduced from 1qt / 4000 miles to less than 1/2qt / 4000 miles. Don't know why. But oil use can imrove.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    If you had to add 4 quarts, then you weren't checking the oil level nearly often enough. I don't know much about the mechanicals of automoble engines, but it seems you could have done some damage by driving your Trooper while it had only 1 quart in there when it normally should have 5.
  • sharktroopersharktrooper Member Posts: 7
    I've heard it's an oil return ring design problem (4 drain holes later changed to 10). When the 4 holes get plugged, more oil is forced into the combustion chamber where it is burned instead of draining back. I do have a sooty tailpipe but no noticeable smoke and no leaks. But other than that, I love this Trooper--it runs well and have had no lights (call me crazy). I have changed to Mobil Syn 5-30, checking oil carefully and often, and have been adding SeaFoam additive to break up likely carbon. Over the last 3 wks, my oil consumption has gone from 1 qt/500 miles to 1 qt/800 miles. Next week, I'm going to have my mechanic check the EGR, PCV, and maybe do a compression test. And that is about all I know to do at this point, short of having a rebuild put in for several Gs.

    All Trooper experts--what's the recent advice on how to resolve or live with this problem? I've seen stuff posted a few years back and that's what I'm trying now (this forum is GREAT!).
  • troop00troop00 Member Posts: 3
    We have a 2000 Trooper LS with 4WD and have had the same issue. After probably 8 trips to the dealer they tightend and lubricated the shift linkage which resolved the issue. You are correct it is not the cylinder it is the shift linkage not disengaging the key cylinder. Until they fix it if it gets stuck you can push the gear selector in with your thumb and let it quickly release which sometimes does the trick.
  • troop00troop00 Member Posts: 3
    Had an oil comsumption issue with my 2000. It was a rear main seal...may want to have that checked. Mine was replaced under warranty.
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    I don't burn any oil in my 1999. However I have all sorts of other issues.
  • costello1costello1 Member Posts: 60
    I have to part with my 2002 because I have 2 SUVS and gas prices are killing me. I have a 2002 s 4wd aut with TOD ,green in great shape with 86500 miles on it.I had a dealer tell me he would give me $7500 in trade on a mazda 6. I have looked up the value in both KBB and NADA .KBB says private value to be around $8500-9500 and NADA says 13,500 !! Any ideas on a fair price if I try to sell it on my own?? The truck is in great shape no problems and I hate to get rid of it !! Thanks!!!
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Try our appraisal tool under the Used Cars link on the Edmunds.com side. And then ask over in Real-World Trade-In Values too.

    Steve, Host
  • flyeflye Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 trooper, everything is OK except that I use for long h-way driving and its needs oil engine all every 380-500m. Do you know if Isuzu has recalls on this? If not what's your best recom. to make it even better.
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Member Posts: 377
    when did ISUZU change the engine design so that there are 10 oil drain holes instead of just 4? That is a good explanation for why newer models may not consume as much oil, and why the SeaFoam seems to be making a difference for sharktrooper. Where do you get the SeaFoam additive? My 99' Trooper seems to be consuming about 1 qt. every 2000 miles also. I just got back from a 3000+ mile trip and it used about a qt. and a half. Got reasonable mileage, about 18 mpg average at 70 mph on interstate. The mountains of N.C. were beautiful, and the Blue Ridge Parkway is quite a beautiful drive on the southern end. Great drive between Boone and Ashville. Trooper performed very well and I remembered why I bought it in the first place, great seating position and reasonable ride comfort.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I miss it. Even though the Armada has a way better ride and handling and is huge compared, there is something about the trooper that gives it a solid feel. I think I'll buy it back from my dad in about 50k miles and make it an offroader! :)

    -mike
  • df2000df2000 Member Posts: 60
    I think J. Lemmond posted...you should know there...He is old isuzu tech. You have to look at your PCV valve. If you have screw in type but not push in, you have new design piston/oil ring(10 hole).
  • sharktroopersharktrooper Member Posts: 7
    Auto zone sells Sea Foam, as well as lots of other stuff. Is there an oil additive expert who can advise per this oil consumption problem?

    I'm not totally sold on Sea Foam, but it comes strongly recommended for clearing engine oil carbon. Thought I'd try it for a while, measure results, and then do the next thing on the list. I'd like to understand what the problem is through working solutions in steps. Sea Foam seems to have helped some, but 800 mi/qt is still unsatisfactory, and it's worse with highway (hi rpm) driving--no real surprise here. I know there's more folks with this problem, I see sooty tail pipes in lots of newer Troopers. So come on, let's see some chatter...
  • jpwalsh1277jpwalsh1277 Member Posts: 6
    Have an 02 4wd "S" with about 27000. up to 2000 miles I used about 1 qt. 1000 miles. after that, I use 1 qt. every 6000 miles with Mobil one oil. I am also running a Alpine Supercharger.... Great power addition.. Many drivers have told me about 3.5 engine oil problems... I guess I got lucky and don't have any oil problems? Trooper has been the best buy for me.. Only vehicle I have owned that, I consider better, is Toyota. Resale value seems to be on the low side but, I don;t plan to sell! Replaced OVM tires with Dueler REVO A/T 265-70-16, what a great tire... improved ride and reduced rear tire-smoking (when supercharger is working) and slipping in the rain.
  • superskeetsuperskeet Member Posts: 14
    Both of my '99 Troopers were using about 1 quart every 500 miles. I've tried Sea Foam and a few other additives in both the oil and gas and checked the PVC system with no improvement. Then I tried CD2 Oil detergent and my oil consumption improved to 1 quart per 1500 miles within 3000 miles from the time I added it and is still improving. I found it at WalMart and it was less than $3 a bottle. This stuff really works and I highly recommend anyone with oil consumption problems in their Trooper try this first.
  • anthonylanthonyl Member Posts: 9
    I have about 54K miles on my 99 Trooper. I use Mobil One and use about 1 quart every 5K miles. When I first got it, it used about 1 quart every 3K miles.
  • cin88cin88 Member Posts: 1
    Did you ever find the problem with this. My trooper (2000) is also doing this. But sometimes I can hit a bump in the road and it will come on. Thanks,
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Member Posts: 377
    How long do you leave the CD2 product in the engine? Do you just put it in there for a few minutes prior to engine oil replacement and use it as a flush? Or is it an additive that stays in for the life of the new oil change?

    Are you currently using Mobil 1 or a standard dino oil?

    I like the sound of the oil consumption reduction you seem to have gotten with it. i think I'll give it a try as well. I'm running Mobil 1 and have in my 99' since I got it. It now has 79000+ miles on it, and runs very well; very dependable transportation. Very solid feel and no rattles or squeeks except for the rear door jiggling some times.
  • superskeetsuperskeet Member Posts: 14
    It's an oil additive that's added every 2000 miles according to the directions. I ran it for 2000 miles and changed the oil. I'm about 1500 miles into the second bottle now and plan on doing another oil change at 2000 miles, then just run my regular oil thereafter and use the CD2 every 4th or 5th oil change to keep it cleaned out. Major improvement by the end of the first bottle and still getting better on the second bottle. Right now after 3500 miles of CD2 I'm using 1 qt per 1500 miles. Here's a product description:

    "CD-2 Oil Detergent frees sticky lifters, valves, and rings to quiet noisy engines. Dissolves sludge, carbon, and gum to extend engine life. Cleans all internal engine parts for more pep and power. Protects critical engine parts during high speed or stop and go driving."

    Like I said in my previous post, I tried everything and CD2 is the only one that loosened up the sludge to free up the oil holes that are clogging.
  • superskeetsuperskeet Member Posts: 14
    Oh yeah, I use standard oil, usually Havoline.
  • misstroopermisstrooper Member Posts: 1
    :sick: My 1988 Trooper was idling low and stalling at intersections before yesterday. On my way to work, exiting the off-ramp, my trooper died. It didn't want to start and when it did it was knocking. Sounded like it was missing or exhaust leak, puttered. (I didn't drive it.) Hours later, after it cooled down, I tried to start it again and it was the same. I had a major tune-up a couple of months ago and easily passed smog test. It also has oil and coolant. Is this going to be a major problem $$$? :confuse: :cry:
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    What engine is that? Is it an Isuzu 4cyl. or GM 3.1L V6?
    ..
    How many miles since your last timing belt change? Do you have good spark on all cylinders? Is your catalytic converter failed and clogging the exhaust pipe? These are items where a single part failure could cause the engine to act up the way you describe.
    ..
    I cannot guess the cost of repair without more information, could be very low cost to swap a part yourself or quite high cost.
Sign In or Register to comment.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles