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Comments
Chad
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Please post again if the squeel is not a rubber sound, if metallic squeeling then it could be bearings in an accessory such as the alternator etc..
Thank you very much
Alex
I had probably 25% life left on the stock pads, and zero dust, so the OEM's are the way to go. Cost about $20 more total than aftermarket for the full set of 4. Big deal.
I did have a lower caliper pin on the rear that was stuck, likely due to heat. The caliper hadn't been floating, so the wear on the pad was tapered. Had to sand out the hole and grease it well. They use a different gold looking grease on the rear now instead of the black. Probably a heat issue found over time, I'm guessing. All is well now and I'm good for another 75k.
Also put Monroe Reflex shocks all around. Wow. It still rides like a truck over bumps, but zero floating and nose diving. Way more solid in the curves. Rides at 80 on the highway like it's standing still. The stock Tokico's were completely dead.
I got my seafoam at CarQuest, I think Napa carries it too. Dunno if it's worked thus far - truck's been down in Vegas with the wife for 2 weeks.
SYJ
I have a 1996 Trooper with 112k miles. When driving at highway speeds, say 40+ mph, there is a distinct buzz that comes from within the dash near where it meets the windshield (at least to my ears while driving). Most of the time it will stop if I let off the throttle, but sometimes it will carry on even after I do this.
It is a very odd medium-frequency, plastic-metallic sound if that makes any sense. The frequency stays constant once it starts, that is, it doesn't get faster/louder as RPMs increase or decrease. It just carries on until I get down to street speeds or ease off the throttle.
Has anyone else experienced this? Could it be something loose at the firewall? Maybe the throttle cable isn't all the way secure and is vibrating against something? Overall driveability and performance don't seem to be affected and the truck runs like a top otherwise.
Thanks,
-Mark
One obvious but important note when checking your oil--make sure your Trooper is consistently on level ground. It makes a big difference in dipstick level.
The last 2 guys both said this is common, there is a service bulletin for it (none that I have seen) and it should be easy to fix...without much time looking. My Isuzu dealer spend 4 trips...did nothing and then said your tires are too big.
I wish there was some recourse because either the dealer has morons working for it or they are lying outright. These independent mechanics were all over it instantly, didn't bill me for diagnosis or necessary repairs and seem to be taking steps to fix it.
My dealer took several trips, $300 parts/labor and only to be turned away and told not to bring my truck back because they cannot find anything wrong.
When I put the truck into Reverse --> No reverse lights.
Going thru the gears, when I get to 3rd --> Reverse lights come on.
3rd to Neutral --> Reverse lights off.
Neutral to 4th --> Reverse lights back on.
4th to 5th --> No reverse lights.
I assume something is wrong at the Reverse Light Switch on the tranny housing. Anyone know the fix? (Has anyone seen or heard of this prob?)
(rear passenger) got tangled up. I removed the motor and to my surprise you cannot just roll the cable back up. do I need a new regulator? anyone, anyone?
thanx a million.
chad
what I was able to do was to shift back and forward a few time and make sure the appropriate lite on the dash turned on matches with the actual mechanical gear selection, and the transmission will shift properly, you may want to give it a try to confirm. Hope this helps. Please indicate your EM address next time.
My mechanic called me today and said he has indeed fixed it. He said that while the dealer was correct in saying the front drivetrain speed sensor wasn't working properly (which they charged me $400 to replace)...however it wasn't the sensor, it was the external electrical connectors into the housing. He cleaned those with a wire brush and blew out my vacuum hoses.
He reports it works like a champ now...all for the whopping price of...$180. Not counting $400+ at the dealer, serveral trips there too. I went independent...first place diagnosis - electrical problem, no charge and recommendation, second place, could not find it, no charge and recommendation, 3rd place done.
Now I need to find a place to go offroading this weekend and really make sure the transfer case still deliver real power after driving it for almost a year improperly engaged.
On a positive note, I've got to say I'm impressed with the off-road ability of the TOD Trooper. I got into a 4WD road--one I couldn't back out of--and just had to grimmace hard as we crawled to the bottom of a rocky, steep 200 yard stretch, then thinking, yeah now I've got to get back out the same way! Just a touch on the 4WD button engaged the TOD, which pulled us up the road without so much as a slip. Though I don't go looking for such terrain, it's very satisfying to know the Trooper has this capability.
'Vader Sound' is normal for the 98' engine, don't worry about it. I think it's someway related to the EGR or PCV valve, but who cares. My 99' does the same thing and has for several years now, ever since I got it. My 01' on the other hand does NOT make this sound, but there are slight differences in the 2 engine designs. Relax and enjoy the ride in your TOD equipped Trooper. It still amazes me the amount of technology built into these machines, and the crazy low prices they are at now.
It looks like the ring job is going to be your best bet. I've put some CD-2 in my 99' to see if it change my oil consumption any or not. I typically use a quart about every 1500-2000 miles depending on the type of driving I'm doing.
I have no idea what direction to start in at all. Dealer? Independant mechanic? It's a normal operation? Maybe some kind of self-testing b/c I don't want to pay someone over a $100 to tell me everything is going normal.
I am going to change my oil myself today and drop in some of that sludge stuff to help clean out the engine before I put in oil. But which oil and what kind of filter are you guys buying for your trucks? Have any of you found a good oil additive to put in with your oil?
Thanks for any help you guys can give.
The K&N filter is a good idea, but you probably won't see mileage improvement from it alone. It should allow the engine to 'breathe' better and you might notice a small improvment in pep. The reason I went with the K&N was it is a one time replacement. It's cleanable and renewable and it can go 40000 miles between renewal kits, under normal driving conditions. If you keep the vehicle long term it could cost you LESS than replacement paper filters every 15000 miles.
As far as oil consumption, how much is your Trooper burning between oil changes? If its about a quart, thats quite normal. I wouldn't do anything about it other than the cleaning you eluded to. If you are the original owner your warranty is good for another year or so and 50000 more miles.
Does your 01' make the 'vader sound' mentioned earlier? What kind of mileage are you getting? Is your Trooper 2WD or 4WD with TOD?
I use 5W-30 Mobil 1 in my Trooper, always have since 1st oil change. I don't know that its that big a deal, but several comments on this forum indicate it should burn off less that standard motor oil. I don't know about that.......I use it because of its proven reputation of protecting engines and it can be left in for longer with concern of 'break down'. I typically change it out at about 5500 or 6000 miles.
Nice mileage. I never got above 18 in my trooper and am happy to break 14 these days.
I totaled a 1996 Toyota T-100, and haven't had any experience w/ an Isuzu product.
Any info anyone could provide would be greatly appreciated.
Also, what kind of gas mileage can I expect to get around town/highway?
I believe that the original window sticker said 16/20...
edit: Added gas mileage question.
Unfortunately, I suspect you're going to find no consistency in the answers you receive....I have a 2001 LTD 4x4 with now over 97,000 miles....it has never burned even a quart of oil off between oil changes (which I regularly do every 3k) but it has never gotten the 16/20 gas mileage it was stickered for. I do a blend of city & highway driving on each tank, I'm not the first off the line & the gas mileage has declined over the course of time from a steady 15mpg at the start, to 14mpg around 60k and now I seem to be averaging about 13.5mpg.
I've often read people on here getting 18+mpg, but I've never seen that in my Troop - but then again, I've never had to add extra oil either....
I recently had my serpentine belt replaced, I maybe put 5K miles on it last year, so perhaps the belt has been worn and I have been losing efficiency? That is all I can hope for at this point.
I have added 265/70R16 tires, which could drop my mileage by 1, I have a bull bar, which maybe takes away another 1 mpg. Roof rack, perhaps 1? then I am up to 17.5 mpg.
I am happy to get 11 around town. I have honestly been thinking about getting a Ford F250 since I would rather get 10 mpg in a truck like that. Right now we have no car payment on it, I commute to work on my bicycle, so if I can get this 4wd problem resolved I will be happy.
As long as the oil consumption does not reduce the life of the engine, which it does NOT seem to do in the 1998-2002 3.5L Troopers, I would much rather get 2-4mpg better and need to add a $1-2 quart of oil every 1,000 miles or so. From a cost-of-ownership perspective, it's a no-brainer.
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It does use a little oil, about 1 qt. in 5000 miles. I add a little more than the 5 quarts initially to top off just above the mark on the dip stick this lets me worry less about running low on oil. I don't need to top off between 3000 mile oil changes because the oil level stays in range on the dip stick. I do add oil or at least make sure to check it if I let my oil change interval go above 4000 miles.
I did change to 265 70R16 tires several months back, but it didn't seem to impact fuel mileage any... that surprised me. :confuse:
So far, I really love it!!! Comfortable, quiet, smooth.
46250 on the odometer (typo in the 1st post)... gonna have to get windshield wipers though
1st fillup was $45 for 20.37 gal. I always keep my mileage, so I'll let y'all know when its time for more gas.
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I'm also working a deal (trading work) for a 91 Trooper (2.8 V6) the shop is presently 'plating the frame' Top, sides & bottom... from the 1st cab mount all the way to the rear end on both sides. Wanting to get it for a work vehicle. The '01 Limited is WAY to nice to work out of...
the 91 had 58K on the odometer. My question... (and if you can't tell - I don't know jack about vehicles ) is a frame repair like this a safe alternative to trashing the vehicle? and before someone asks, no, the whole frame isn't gone... some holes... but not broken anywhere (I saw the frame sans body - and it does look strange - the body on the lift beside the frame) The body is in GREAT shape (save a hole in the drivers front fender)
I appreciate your guys input.
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The experiment that I would like you to tray and report back here to the discussion:
1.) get a "once a year" bottle of fuel injector cleaner, use as directed on the label.
2.) unhook your battery for 30 minutes or more to reset learned parameters
3.) reconnect your battery to start learning to use the higher octane
4.) use only the highest octane gasoline for several tank fulls
note: try and drive at least 20 minutes each time to make sure its fully warmed up.
5.) monitor oil use and fuel economy during these changes.
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I expect that the Trooper will have a little more pep and less hesitation because the engine computer will be able to advance the timing without experiencing knocking. The knocking if it is happenning, can also make oil burning worse, so less knocking will cause less oil burning.
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This is a cheap (highest octane is only 10% more expensive than lowest) test that is healthy for your Trooper.
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Enjoy your Trooper.
Thank You
BoxTrooper
Been very humid here last week, so A/C was constantly on. Living in the mountains of WV probably doesn't help much either. (Plus my 01 has the towing package and auto tranny)
I'm gonna try to not use A/C at all for the present tank and see if it makes any difference. I'll change the oil this week and switch to Mobile1. 5W-30 I believe I've seen posted.
I'll try the fuel injection cleaner also. Would a bottle of octane boost be close to the same as filling up w/ 93?
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I would be affraid to use more than one kind of additive at a time, so I'd just do the Fuel Injector Cleaner and not the octane boost. I don't trust additives very well, I read the entire label very carefully and use infrequently.
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I think octane booster is the same as higher octane fuel, but my preference to stay away from additives would make me buy the high octane fuel instead.
Mind telling what you paid for it??
It is a 2001 Trooper Limited. Every option that come on it, plus a few more the original owner just had to have 46250 miles. Only thing I've added it a rack for the top - and the dealership paid for 1/2 of that.
Still have the original window sticker in the glove box. Sticker was just shy of $36k.
My Trooper is a 2001 LS (the real LS, not the rental fleet type) 2WD Automatic. I still luvvit, btw.
I routinely get 19-20 hwy mpg with 87 octane fuel, dino 10W30, 34# psi in cold tires, AC blasting, and running 75mph on 300 mile jaunts. I change oil every 3,000, and have never burned the first drop.
I will NEVER again use ANY bottled F/I cleaner. Last time I did, I baked the cat converters in an Audi (to the tune of $1200!!).
I"m a firm believer in re-setting the ECM periodically, and have found that doing so improves performance significantly. I've learned from experience that periodic EGR tube cleaning is a very worthwhile investment of time and money, from performance and fuel efficiency perspectives.
I, too, experimented with 91 octane fuel. I "thought" that it helped performance a smidgen, but no more so than re-setting the ECM. With that in mind, and with premium fuel at $2.45 or so, 87 oct. does me just fine.
dave
Just a speculation...
:surprise: