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Isuzu Trooper

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Comments

  • bsmart1bsmart1 Member Posts: 377
    Sounds like the engines TOAST! I had a 1988 and the rebuild was $2500. Turned out it wasn't worth it, it lasted about a year or so and I had to more money in before I finally gave up and ditched it. Mine had the 4 cylinder, if you have the 6 cylinder GM version, you might get lucky.
  • chadechade Member Posts: 14
    93 LS major squeeling for 30 seconds when I start her. anyone have and idea?

    Chad
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    squeeling usually means a rubber sound, so look at your belts. Something may have accelerated their wear like if the battery leaked onto the belts etc..
    ..
    Please post again if the squeel is not a rubber sound, if metallic squeeling then it could be bearings in an accessory such as the alternator etc..
  • vbonnetvbonnet Member Posts: 1
    Can you sent me via EM the picture of the range sensor because I couldnot find it
    Thank you very much
    Alex
  • rspeicherrspeicher Member Posts: 2
    I'll update and second this. Merlin at St. Charles is fantastic. I did a full set of pads on my '99 Trooper with 68.5k mi this weekend. Very easy. I did not change or turn the rotors as they were nearly perfect. I even called Merlin to ask about the 2 grease types, and he was happy to help.

    I had probably 25% life left on the stock pads, and zero dust, so the OEM's are the way to go. Cost about $20 more total than aftermarket for the full set of 4. Big deal.

    I did have a lower caliper pin on the rear that was stuck, likely due to heat. The caliper hadn't been floating, so the wear on the pad was tapered. Had to sand out the hole and grease it well. They use a different gold looking grease on the rear now instead of the black. Probably a heat issue found over time, I'm guessing. All is well now and I'm good for another 75k.

    Also put Monroe Reflex shocks all around. Wow. It still rides like a truck over bumps, but zero floating and nose diving. Way more solid in the curves. Rides at 80 on the highway like it's standing still. The stock Tokico's were completely dead.
  • yngveyngve Member Posts: 12
    Yet another related question, if the problem is the oil control rings, wouldn't a ring job fix it? It seems like long term this would be a safer (and if you use Synthetic, cheaper) alternative to just living with the burning. Has anyone tried this?

    I got my seafoam at CarQuest, I think Napa carries it too. Dunno if it's worked thus far - truck's been down in Vegas with the wife for 2 weeks.

    SYJ
  • lateritelaterite Member Posts: 2
    Greetings,

    I have a 1996 Trooper with 112k miles. When driving at highway speeds, say 40+ mph, there is a distinct buzz that comes from within the dash near where it meets the windshield (at least to my ears while driving). Most of the time it will stop if I let off the throttle, but sometimes it will carry on even after I do this.

    It is a very odd medium-frequency, plastic-metallic sound if that makes any sense. The frequency stays constant once it starts, that is, it doesn't get faster/louder as RPMs increase or decrease. It just carries on until I get down to street speeds or ease off the throttle.

    Has anyone else experienced this? Could it be something loose at the firewall? Maybe the throttle cable isn't all the way secure and is vibrating against something? Overall driveability and performance don't seem to be affected and the truck runs like a top otherwise.

    Thanks,
    -Mark
  • sharktroopersharktrooper Member Posts: 7
    Substantially more expensive than the oil additive options, but still there as a last resort. If I don't see improvement with the CD2, then a ring job is the next card to play--it certainly gets at the root cause. I can't verify if the CD2 works yet--have gone 500 miles with no change in oil consumption. I'll try it a while longer, because I get sweaty when I think of plunking down 2 Gs for a ring job.

    One obvious but important note when checking your oil--make sure your Trooper is consistently on level ground. It makes a big difference in dipstick level.
  • superskeetsuperskeet Member Posts: 14
    Go at least 2000 miles with the CD2 before you judge it. I saw my consumption go to 1000 miles per quart after the first 2000 miles, then to 1500 miles per quart after 3000 miles. I changed my oil after he initial 2000 miles and added another bottle of CD2 at that time. Keep us posted on your results.
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    Well my problem still isn't fixed...however the transmission guy I took it to immediately said you have an electrical problem and recommended someone else, the next guy said everything looks good from the outside, but I cannot tell without the right equipment...he recommended another guy...who in about an hour said the problem looks like it is in this solenoid above the front axle (which I have seen as a common problem in Rodeo Forums).

    The last 2 guys both said this is common, there is a service bulletin for it (none that I have seen) and it should be easy to fix...without much time looking. My Isuzu dealer spend 4 trips...did nothing and then said your tires are too big.

    I wish there was some recourse because either the dealer has morons working for it or they are lying outright. These independent mechanics were all over it instantly, didn't bill me for diagnosis or necessary repairs and seem to be taking steps to fix it.

    My dealer took several trips, $300 parts/labor and only to be turned away and told not to bring my truck back because they cannot find anything wrong.
  • grayarea1grayarea1 Member Posts: 1
    1997 Trooper S, 5-SPEED M/T.
    When I put the truck into Reverse --> No reverse lights.
    Going thru the gears, when I get to 3rd --> Reverse lights come on.
    3rd to Neutral --> Reverse lights off.
    Neutral to 4th --> Reverse lights back on.
    4th to 5th --> No reverse lights.

    I assume something is wrong at the Reverse Light Switch on the tranny housing. Anyone know the fix? (Has anyone seen or heard of this prob?)
  • tbentleytbentley Member Posts: 3
    My 1999 Trooper started this same thing yesterday. Are you sure it is the Manifold Gasket?
  • chadechade Member Posts: 14
    I now have a new issue with my 93 trooper LS. the cable on my window regulator
    (rear passenger) got tangled up. I removed the motor and to my surprise you cannot just roll the cable back up. do I need a new regulator? anyone, anyone?

    thanx a million.

    chad
  • yngveyngve Member Posts: 12
    I guess my question was whether, even as a last resort, it would fix the problem. I know that Isuzu was replacing shortblocks as the warranty fix for the problem - doesn't this seem like overkill if re-ringing would work? Has anyone tried a ring job, and if so, did it stop the oil consumption?
  • calf1calf1 Member Posts: 14
    The range sensor is under the car behind a metal shield located approximately below the floor shifter, you have to get under the car to see it, the dealer replaced it for me, so I don't really know exactly what it looks like. After the dealer found the real problem and before the actual replacement part arrives,
    what I was able to do was to shift back and forward a few time and make sure the appropriate lite on the dash turned on matches with the actual mechanical gear selection, and the transmission will shift properly, you may want to give it a try to confirm. Hope this helps. Please indicate your EM address next time.
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    After a year...a failed attempt to get the problem fixed under warranty and the dealer telling me to go jump in a lake...I think it is resolved.

    My mechanic called me today and said he has indeed fixed it. He said that while the dealer was correct in saying the front drivetrain speed sensor wasn't working properly (which they charged me $400 to replace)...however it wasn't the sensor, it was the external electrical connectors into the housing. He cleaned those with a wire brush and blew out my vacuum hoses.

    He reports it works like a champ now...all for the whopping price of...$180. Not counting $400+ at the dealer, serveral trips there too. I went independent...first place diagnosis - electrical problem, no charge and recommendation, second place, could not find it, no charge and recommendation, 3rd place done.

    Now I need to find a place to go offroading this weekend and really make sure the transfer case still deliver real power after driving it for almost a year improperly engaged.
  • sharktroopersharktrooper Member Posts: 7
    On recent trips in my 98 Trooper, I've noticed a loud sound like breathing or weezing coming from the left front, most often on cold startup. It seems to go away as the engine gets warm and does not affect the performance of the engine or transmission. Can anybody guide me here on what to look for?

    On a positive note, I've got to say I'm impressed with the off-road ability of the TOD Trooper. I got into a 4WD road--one I couldn't back out of--and just had to grimmace hard as we crawled to the bottom of a rocky, steep 200 yard stretch, then thinking, yeah now I've got to get back out the same way! Just a touch on the 4WD button engaged the TOD, which pulled us up the road without so much as a slip. Though I don't go looking for such terrain, it's very satisfying to know the Trooper has this capability.
  • sharktroopersharktrooper Member Posts: 7
    My mechanic thinks the ring job should correct the problem. I agree that the short block fix seems like overkill, unless the oil problem went too long and fried other engine components, or maybe one did not know if other damage occurred. I'm going to run these additives for another few thousand and see if they can improve things, then make a decision on a ringer. I did not see drastic improvement after running SeaFoam for about 1000 miles (500 to maybe 700 miles/qt), so I switched to the CD2. Will watch closely for about 2000. Maybe it's too far gone.
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Member Posts: 377
    Congrats sbcook on getting that TOD fixed, that was a looong time in coming! Hope it works great when you get in the outback with it. :)

    'Vader Sound' is normal for the 98' engine, don't worry about it. I think it's someway related to the EGR or PCV valve, but who cares. My 99' does the same thing and has for several years now, ever since I got it. My 01' on the other hand does NOT make this sound, but there are slight differences in the 2 engine designs. Relax and enjoy the ride in your TOD equipped Trooper. It still amazes me the amount of technology built into these machines, and the crazy low prices they are at now. :D

    It looks like the ring job is going to be your best bet. I've put some CD-2 in my 99' to see if it change my oil consumption any or not. I typically use a quart about every 1500-2000 miles depending on the type of driving I'm doing. ;)
  • coastie007coastie007 Member Posts: 33
    I have a 01 Trooper with 49,000 miles on it. I think I am going to be changing the spark plugs b/c from what I hear it had better be done. I'll also probably throw in a K&N filter today too and I hope that this will perhaps help a little with gas consumption and my main problem . . . oil consumption too, but I am not sure as this isn't really isn't my area. I am a little concerned with how much oil my truck seems to burn off in just 3000 - 3500 miles. I find myself having to change it at 3000 or else I could be causing problems. Is there any suggestions as to what I could do? I have read on "rings" and "blocks" and "EGR" but don't understand it all. I don't know what I would go into the dealer saying or asking for under warranty either.
    I have no idea what direction to start in at all. Dealer? Independant mechanic? It's a normal operation? Maybe some kind of self-testing b/c I don't want to pay someone over a $100 to tell me everything is going normal.
    I am going to change my oil myself today and drop in some of that sludge stuff to help clean out the engine before I put in oil. But which oil and what kind of filter are you guys buying for your trucks? Have any of you found a good oil additive to put in with your oil?
    Thanks for any help you guys can give.
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Member Posts: 377
    I don't think you need to CHANGE your plugs at that mileage, but you DO need to remove them and put never-sieze on the threads. I changed my 01' plugs at about 45000 miles and they looked fine when I took them out. I put new plugs in (Autolite) and the vehicle didn't want to run right. I ended up putting NEW NGK plugs in, but didn't see any performance or mileage improvements from it. The thing you don't want to do is leave the original plugs in untouched for 100,000 miles. The threads will likely seize and you'll have a MAJOR problem on your hands. :mad:

    The K&N filter is a good idea, but you probably won't see mileage improvement from it alone. It should allow the engine to 'breathe' better and you might notice a small improvment in pep. The reason I went with the K&N was it is a one time replacement. It's cleanable and renewable and it can go 40000 miles between renewal kits, under normal driving conditions. If you keep the vehicle long term it could cost you LESS than replacement paper filters every 15000 miles.

    As far as oil consumption, how much is your Trooper burning between oil changes? If its about a quart, thats quite normal. I wouldn't do anything about it other than the cleaning you eluded to. If you are the original owner your warranty is good for another year or so and 50000 more miles. :)

    Does your 01' make the 'vader sound' mentioned earlier? What kind of mileage are you getting? Is your Trooper 2WD or 4WD with TOD? :blush:
  • coastie007coastie007 Member Posts: 33
    By the time it's 3000 miles left I have about half of my oil left give or take a little more or less. What kind of oil and filter is recommended? I am not quite sure about the "vader sound" I would say no b/c it sounds like I would have noticed that. I have a 4wd with the TOD, and on a straight highway drive i get about 310 to 330 miles before I am on empty. Is that good mileage compared to others?
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Member Posts: 377
    Sounds like your losing 1 qt. about every 1200 miles or so. That's not terrible I suppose; my 01' seems to do better than that, losing about 1 qt every 2000 miles. Your mileage is very consistent with other Troopers with the 3.5L engine, i'd say.

    I use 5W-30 Mobil 1 in my Trooper, always have since 1st oil change. I don't know that its that big a deal, but several comments on this forum indicate it should burn off less that standard motor oil. I don't know about that.......I use it because of its proven reputation of protecting engines and it can be left in for longer with concern of 'break down'. I typically change it out at about 5500 or 6000 miles. :D
  • jay21jay21 Member Posts: 2
    i know it been awhile since you have had this problem and im hoping that you solved it but i just wanted to know basically the same thing you did. Where is it possible to order those clips for the window regulator? just recently i too found out that the clips are not a part of the regulator. Could you help me :cry:
  • jay21jay21 Member Posts: 2
    I just wanted to know where the clips could be purchased to the window regulator because i too just recently found out that they are not apart of the regulator. Could you help me out?
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    My MPG on a long trip where I ran two full tanks back to back with my 2001 3.5L 5 speed manual shift Trooper was 349 miles on 18 gallons followed by 367 miles on 19 gallons. These average to 19.35 MPG. The terrain was over the Appallacian Mountains. I had a bunch of stuff (bulky but probably only 400 lbs. or so) in back and all the seats folded forward. No passengers today. Total travel time was 11 hr. 10 min. (I was stopped for 25 minutes between tankfuls, there were some slow construction areas too) so my average trip speed was 66.6 MPH.
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    St. Charles is great, if they are still selling Isuzu's. I cannot remember the site, but do an internet search. I don't know about the clips you are discussing, but you should call them up and mention you got their site from the internet.

    Nice mileage. I never got above 18 in my trooper and am happy to break 14 these days.
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Member Posts: 377
    SB are you saying 14 mpg on the highway?? If so, there is something WRONG. That should be looked into........I forget are you driving a 99'?
  • yngveyngve Member Posts: 12
    I just switched from SeaFoam to CD2 as well. Prior to the SeaFoam, I was burning about 1.5q per 1000 miles. After the SeaFoam, I was down to about 1q per 1000. After switching to CD2 (and Castrol Syn/Dyno blend 5w30), I'm down to about .5q after 1000 miles. I'm planning on running this for another 1000 miles, then changing oil/filter, switching to Mobil1, and another pint of CD2. As long as I can keep my consumption this low, I'm happy - it's the sudden spikes that I was experiencing before (3q in 1700 miles at one point) that had me thinking about dropping the cash on new rings.
  • superskeetsuperskeet Member Posts: 14
    I'm sure changing to a better oil doesn't hurt, but I'm still seeing improvement in my oil consumption with the CD2 alone. I'm using Havoline 10w30. I have 2 '99 Troopers, one with 108k miles and the other with 90k miles. Nothing else I tried made a dent in my consumption except for the CD2. I know this is not my first post about this stuff, but with so many people having this problem I feel I have to spread the word. It's a helluva lot cheaper than a ring job!
  • wvpianomanwvpianoman Member Posts: 8
    I'm looking at a 2001 Limited currently. VERY nice vehicle. I can't believe all the options. It's got 46450 miles. Had a mechanic friend tell me that it would start using oil by 60k miles - and use a quart a month. Looking online here I'm seeing that several others are using oil. Is that standard for a Trooper? :confuse:

    I totaled a 1996 Toyota T-100, and haven't had any experience w/ an Isuzu product.

    Any info anyone could provide would be greatly appreciated.

    Also, what kind of gas mileage can I expect to get around town/highway?

    I believe that the original window sticker said 16/20...

    edit: Added gas mileage question.
  • cobbocobbo Member Posts: 34
    wvpianoman:

    Unfortunately, I suspect you're going to find no consistency in the answers you receive....I have a 2001 LTD 4x4 with now over 97,000 miles....it has never burned even a quart of oil off between oil changes (which I regularly do every 3k) but it has never gotten the 16/20 gas mileage it was stickered for. I do a blend of city & highway driving on each tank, I'm not the first off the line & the gas mileage has declined over the course of time from a steady 15mpg at the start, to 14mpg around 60k and now I seem to be averaging about 13.5mpg.

    I've often read people on here getting 18+mpg, but I've never seen that in my Troop - but then again, I've never had to add extra oil either....
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    14.5 too. It is a 1999. I burn little to no oil. I have been having it looked into for 2 years. I don't use the truck for much other than a short commute and 4 wheeling so I don't worry about it too much. Since my 4wd has been on the fritz for the last year, I don't have much use for it anymore.

    I recently had my serpentine belt replaced, I maybe put 5K miles on it last year, so perhaps the belt has been worn and I have been losing efficiency? That is all I can hope for at this point.

    I have added 265/70R16 tires, which could drop my mileage by 1, I have a bull bar, which maybe takes away another 1 mpg. Roof rack, perhaps 1? then I am up to 17.5 mpg.

    I am happy to get 11 around town. I have honestly been thinking about getting a Ford F250 since I would rather get 10 mpg in a truck like that. Right now we have no car payment on it, I commute to work on my bicycle, so if I can get this 4wd problem resolved I will be happy.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    interesting. I wonder if there is any correlation between the two. Our 98 Troop has always burned oil, but we have gotten fairly decent fuel economy-- easily 18mpg on straight highway driving at 75mph, more like mid 16s to 17 in mixed driving.

    As long as the oil consumption does not reduce the life of the engine, which it does NOT seem to do in the 1998-2002 3.5L Troopers, I would much rather get 2-4mpg better and need to add a $1-2 quart of oil every 1,000 miles or so. From a cost-of-ownership perspective, it's a no-brainer.
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    I forgot to mention, the 19.35 MPG is with Yokahama G051 275/70R16 tires and the OME firm suspension coil spings and all four OME shocks. My Trooper rides an inch and a half higher from the OME suspension parts and another inch higher than that from the larger tires. Both the larger tires and the higher distance off the ground make MPG worse. When I purchased this Trooper fully stock it got 21 MPG on the 5 hours drive home at 65 MPH with fewer mountains in the way than the 19.35 MPG trip.
    ..
    It does use a little oil, about 1 qt. in 5000 miles. I add a little more than the 5 quarts initially to top off just above the mark on the dip stick this lets me worry less about running low on oil. I don't need to top off between 3000 mile oil changes because the oil level stays in range on the dip stick. I do add oil or at least make sure to check it if I let my oil change interval go above 4000 miles.
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Member Posts: 377
    I just completed a tank of fuel, doing strictly in town driving over the past week or so. Came in at 14 mpg. :mad:

    I did change to 265 70R16 tires several months back, but it didn't seem to impact fuel mileage any... that surprised me. :confuse:
  • wvpianomanwvpianoman Member Posts: 8
    :D Went ahead and purchased the vehicle. :D

    So far, I really love it!!! Comfortable, quiet, smooth.

    46250 on the odometer (typo in the 1st post)... gonna have to get windshield wipers though

    1st fillup was $45 for 20.37 gal. I always keep my mileage, so I'll let y'all know when its time for more gas.

    --------------------------

    I'm also working a deal (trading work) for a 91 Trooper (2.8 V6) the shop is presently 'plating the frame' Top, sides & bottom... from the 1st cab mount all the way to the rear end on both sides. Wanting to get it for a work vehicle. The '01 Limited is WAY to nice to work out of...

    the 91 had 58K on the odometer. My question... (and if you can't tell - I don't know jack about vehicles :blush: ) is a frame repair like this a safe alternative to trashing the vehicle? and before someone asks, no, the whole frame isn't gone... some holes... but not broken anywhere (I saw the frame sans body - and it does look strange - the body on the lift beside the frame) The body is in GREAT shape (save a hole in the drivers front fender)

    I appreciate your guys input.
  • hrichterhrichter Member Posts: 1
    My trooper started using oil at 50,000 miles. Then at 58,000 miles, after adding oil two days earlier, loud tapping noises twenty miles from home. Called dealer. Said to add oil and it would be ok. Wasn't. Engine replaced by Isuzu with a caution to monitor oil changes at 3000 miles religiously. I really like this vehicle!! but now I have another 60,000 on my new engine. All ok so far.
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    I have been wondering what is different between me at 19+ MPG and those of you that have posted less than 15 MPG. I use the high octane fuel and fuel injector cleaner once a year. When I have occationally used low octane (87 octane) I notice hesitation and less power than when using higher octane.
    ..
    The experiment that I would like you to tray and report back here to the discussion:
    1.) get a "once a year" bottle of fuel injector cleaner, use as directed on the label.
    2.) unhook your battery for 30 minutes or more to reset learned parameters
    3.) reconnect your battery to start learning to use the higher octane
    4.) use only the highest octane gasoline for several tank fulls
    note: try and drive at least 20 minutes each time to make sure its fully warmed up.
    5.) monitor oil use and fuel economy during these changes.
    ..
    I expect that the Trooper will have a little more pep and less hesitation because the engine computer will be able to advance the timing without experiencing knocking. The knocking if it is happenning, can also make oil burning worse, so less knocking will cause less oil burning.
    ..
    This is a cheap (highest octane is only 10% more expensive than lowest) test that is healthy for your Trooper.
    ..
    Enjoy your Trooper.
    Thank You
    BoxTrooper
  • anthonylanthonyl Member Posts: 9
    I routinely get 18 to 19 mpg on trips, with about 19.2 mpg tops with 2 passengers, luggage, and using the AC. I use fuel injector cleaner about twice a year, and keep tires fully inflated. When towing a 3000 lb camper through flat country, I have averaged 14.5 to 15 mpg driving 60 mph. I use Mobil One in the rear end and engine and grease the driveshaft about every 3K miles. I have yet to change the spark plugs at 54K miles. I never gun the engine or engage in quick starts or stops.
  • wvpianomanwvpianoman Member Posts: 8
    Averaged 14.2 for the first tank, around town. :(

    Been very humid here last week, so A/C was constantly on. Living in the mountains of WV probably doesn't help much either. (Plus my 01 has the towing package and auto tranny)

    I'm gonna try to not use A/C at all for the present tank and see if it makes any difference. I'll change the oil this week and switch to Mobile1. 5W-30 I believe I've seen posted.

    I'll try the fuel injection cleaner also. Would a bottle of octane boost be close to the same as filling up w/ 93?
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    I think the Fuel Injector Cleaner boosts octane already.
    ..
    I would be affraid to use more than one kind of additive at a time, so I'd just do the Fuel Injector Cleaner and not the octane boost. I don't trust additives very well, I read the entire label very carefully and use infrequently.
    ..
    I think octane booster is the same as higher octane fuel, but my preference to stay away from additives would make me buy the high octane fuel instead.
  • makayemakaye Member Posts: 81
    http://www.dailypress.com/features/lifestyle/cyberlife/dp-04075sy0jul18,1,6036420.story?co- ll=dp-features-cyberlife
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Member Posts: 377
    Sounds like you got a GOOD Trooper if you're getting the mileage in just city driving, or short trips driving. I've seen worse and heard a lot worse on this board. I bet you won't see any difference when you turn the A/C OFF. I bet you get about 18 mpg on the highway when you make your first trip. Look forward to hearing more about your 'new' Trooper performance. It truly is a bargin these days for the amount of vehicle you get for the money.
    Mind telling what you paid for it??
  • wvpianomanwvpianoman Member Posts: 8
    Not at all. I got it for $16k.

    It is a 2001 Trooper Limited. Every option that come on it, plus a few more the original owner just had to have :) 46250 miles. Only thing I've added it a rack for the top - and the dealership paid for 1/2 of that.

    Still have the original window sticker in the glove box. Sticker was just shy of $36k.
  • yngveyngve Member Posts: 12
    With the patented "flying brick" aerodynamics, the MPG of the trooper seems to be extremely speed dependent. I've managed 20+ MPG driving back roads from Jackson Hole to Salt Lake where my speed was limited to about 60-65. On the other hand, I'm lucky to get 15 MPG going from Vegas to Salt Lake (lots of uphill) on I-15 doing 83 mph. And for the record, my troop's an oil burner (with an auto trans and the towing package).
  • silverghostsilverghost Member Posts: 154
    Let's compare notes -

    My Trooper is a 2001 LS (the real LS, not the rental fleet type) 2WD Automatic. I still luvvit, btw.

    I routinely get 19-20 hwy mpg with 87 octane fuel, dino 10W30, 34# psi in cold tires, AC blasting, and running 75mph on 300 mile jaunts. I change oil every 3,000, and have never burned the first drop.

    I will NEVER again use ANY bottled F/I cleaner. Last time I did, I baked the cat converters in an Audi (to the tune of $1200!!).

    I"m a firm believer in re-setting the ECM periodically, and have found that doing so improves performance significantly. I've learned from experience that periodic EGR tube cleaning is a very worthwhile investment of time and money, from performance and fuel efficiency perspectives.

    I, too, experimented with 91 octane fuel. I "thought" that it helped performance a smidgen, but no more so than re-setting the ECM. With that in mind, and with premium fuel at $2.45 or so, 87 oct. does me just fine.

    dave
  • wvpianomanwvpianoman Member Posts: 8
    I might be wrong - but I'd be willing to bet that the mileage difference is 2WD vs. 4WD.

    Just a speculation...

    :surprise:
  • 95trooper95trooper Member Posts: 4
    I recently had my spark plugs, wires, and one coil pack on my 95 replaced because of poor performance and misfiring in 2 of the cylinders. Its running great again, but, all of a sudden, almost immediately after this repair, my starter has started to do some weird things. It will crank and then grind like I was trying to start it when its already running. I should say this is not happening every time. Could the starter be bad or am I just not used to it firing up right away? Lets see, details are its a 95 with 136k miles on it, 3.2L, auto, 4wd, tow pack. It also seems to chew up the Bridgestone Duelers pretty fast but its done that as long as I've had it which is 7 years.
  • silverghostsilverghost Member Posts: 154
    2wd does get better mileage than 4wd, but BoxTrooper didn't say in his post (the one I replied to) which setup he had. I believe he has a 5-speed. If so, and if he also has 4wd, the tranny probably explains why his mileage and mine are roughly the same.
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