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Isuzu Trooper

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Comments

  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    Today I broke my windshield when loading 10 foot lumber inside. The wood fit from left rear corner to front right corner. I was worried about scuffing, so I had a blanket under the lumber up front. At the rear door, at the last minute I left my gloves on the end of the top piece of lumber, that extra length was enough to pop the wood against the windshield when I closed the door. Interestingly, the inner glass is not harmed, but the outer glass is cracked like a 8 inch diameter spider. If I just didn't put those gloves there...
    ..
    Can anyone offer advice to help me when I look for a replacement windshield? I have only replaced a windshield myself once before. It was a junkyard windshield for a 1964 Eight Door Greenbriar Deluxe Corvair Van. I took it from a van that had a very huge hornets nest hanging from its drivers side windshield visor, did not get stung. That was a quarter century ago, so I don't remember the installation details other than having to get a new gasket to make sure it did not leak into my van.
  • makayemakaye Member Posts: 81
    Boxtrooper;
    First, 64 Greenbrier van. Now that brings back some good memories. Feel like saying "groovy" and "boss." Where is that Iron Butterfly album...

    Windshields are key parts aiding body rigidity. If I recall, the one you did in a 1964 was basically held in with a rubber gasket and you did the string/wire thing where the string or wire went around the gasket, the windshield/gasket assembly was placed over the opening and the string was used to pull the gasket edge back over the body sheet metal lip.
    Now windshields are glued in using a urethane adhesive. That urethane adhesive is STRONG. You have to cut the glass away from the adhesive using a piano wire "saw" or special windshield knife. You will need new support brackets, I believe, that are also glued into place. There are spacers between the body shell and windshield that have to be used. You need just rhe right amount of adhesive. There are a bunch of plastic tabs that hold the decorative molding in place that will likely break when removed so you'll need new ones there. I'm the shadetree backyard mechanic type, but, if it was me, I'd leave it to the "pros." It's a pretty competitive group, you may not save much on your own...plus you will probably get a lifetime warranty on leaks and squeaks with a professional instal.
    http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/autos_boats/article/0,2021,DIY_13708_2272109,00.html
    Ask for a "brand name" windshield, so-called OEM auto glass, like PPG or LOF/Pilkington and Carlite.

    Just my opinion.
  • silverghostsilverghost Member Posts: 154
    Just bite the bullet and pay someone to do it. It would be a very difficult job without the proper tools, parts and materials, and an extra pair of hands. Plus, it's virtually impossible to remove a salvageable windsheild without breaking it.

    The gasket will have to be replaced, along with the windshield. The plastic trim pieces attached to the A-pillars can be re-used if the installer removes them carefully. BTW, you will need to specify which tint band your original WS has - bronze, green or none.

    I had the WS in my '01 replaced about six months ago - cost $200 and took about 20 minutes. I used a mobile outfit recommended by my insurance company. They came to me and did a very good job. Unfortunately, I didn't specify name- brand glass, and my no-name WS has a ripple all the way across about six inches from the bottom. I can live with it, though, particularly for the price.
  • lostlost Member Posts: 64
    It could be the timing belt tensioner. These make a sound just like this when they need replacing.
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    Thank You for the help. I'll get the pros to do it. A quick search showed several glass repair compnies nearby.
  • makayemakaye Member Posts: 81
    2001 Trooper, on my third windshield...lot's of rocks and other debris, with a rather poor aerodynamic profile...

    Now when I see a semi about to pass me, I get off the freeway if I can ;-)

    Gravel haulers give me apoplexy.
  • bawbcatbawbcat Member Posts: 118
    Thanks for the tip, I wouldn't have thought of that. I suppose at 7 years and 70k it might be time to change the belt and tensioner.
  • sick95troopsick95troop Member Posts: 7
    Hey Boxtrooper....
    Have you ever heard of anyone swapping a diesel drivetrain into a trooper? With as many industrial and fleet diesel engines that Isuzu builds, you would think someone might have tried it. I'm actually considering finding an early to mid 80's diesel drivetrain to swap into my '92 P'up (2.3 carbureted piece of you know what). Couple your desires of a diesel Troop with some biodiesel enginuity and you might have the greatest vehicle on earth!
    matt
    P.S. oh, yeah, my 95 Troop is nearly dead...won't run...hoping to tear motor apart soon to find out why.
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    Total installed price for new windshield by Safelite is $266.32 including new moulding, I expected it to cost more.
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    I think the total fuel and exhaust system change over would make swapping to diesel too expensive. I wish you luck on the 1995 rebuild. I'd like to be there with you to see the insides. I have heard that the parts are hard to get and very expensive. How man miles on the 1995? I will be watching to see the why part.
    Thank You
  • uniconunicon Member Posts: 18
    Boxtroooper,

    That's a very good price IMHO
  • uniconunicon Member Posts: 18
    It was very easy; unbolt the caliper bolts. There were not any set screws holding the rotors on either like a lot of other cars.

    I opted for the Brembo discs, not stock. Stock rusted in like 6 months so I figure the much lower cost Brembo's would do. I got Pads from St. Charles.

    Brembos are available from

    http://www.stopshopanddrive.com/

    I've ordered al kinds of stuff from them. Very good luck. No, I don't work for them :)
  • mohawkmohawk Member Posts: 7
    We currently own a 2002 LS Trooper (43K miles). We bought it new and have had zero problems with it. I've been trying to stay on top of all necessary service items. Just took it in to an Isuzu dealer to have the tranny flushed and refilled. They also lubed the telescoping drive saft (grease fittings -- didn't know they were there??). It's been a couple of weeks now....and I've notice something that I've haven't noticed before. When the Trooper shifts into OD, the vehicle shudders (i.e., small vibrations). It doesn't happen every time, just when the RPMs are low. For example, if I take away quickly from a stop and keep up the revs, the vehicle shifts smoothly, as expected. However, if I take away easy and keep the RPMs lower (I would consider this "normal" driving), the vehicle will occassionally shudder once it goes into overdrive. It doesn't do it all the time, but it does it enough to cause concern. I took it back to the dealer and they test drove it and checked all the codes. Everything came back normal. One of the main reasons I bought the Trooper was for the outstanding warranty. However, I would rather not have to use it to replace the tranny, etc. Has anyone else noticed their Trooper shudders when going into OD. If so, what did you do to fix the problem?
  • silverghostsilverghost Member Posts: 154
    Yep. I had the identical problem with my '01 LS.

    Did you actually get the tranny flushed, or just drained and re-filled? I ask, because I had begun to notice a slight shudder prior to my drain and fill at 32k. Afterwards, the shudder gradually became worse. At 47k, I went to the dealer and was told that the fluid was burned and the tranny was probably bad. However, they wanted to do a power flush before replacing it, just to be sure. I'm now at 56k, and the shudder has not returned. Keepin' my fingers crossed that it's okay, but since I have a lot of miles left on the warranty, I'm not too concerned.
  • mohawkmohawk Member Posts: 7
    Just looked at the receipt..."Automatic Transmission Flush and Fill".

    I just think it's a little strange that you think it (Tranny Service) would only improve the performance of the transmission. So far it's only made it worse.

    Should I take it back and have it flushed again?

    Is this a sign of transmission problems to come?
  • silverghostsilverghost Member Posts: 154
    I'd definitely take it back, just to go on record as continuing to experience the shudder after their flush and fill. And, yes, it will cause some real problems over the long run if they don't fix it.

    These 4L30E transmissions seem to be pretty bullet-proof, with the possible exception of their external mode sensor assemblies. I understand that GM has used them across many of their vehicle lines. I suppose it's possible that there are issues with fluid type or service inadequacy. That said, however, my tranny has been problem-free for 9000 miles.
  • bradespbradesp Member Posts: 21
    Was curious if any Acura SLX owners can comment on the "upgrades" that came with buying the Acura version of the Tropper? I'm in search of a 2000-2002 model year. Was curious if Acura had Isuzu beef up Soundproofing and any other items that may have given a more upscale impression to the vehicle?

    Thanks!

    bradesp
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    The SafeLite windshield installation mechanic was very professional. He put primer where removing the old window glue scratched the sealing area, he used a solvent to clean the new glass where the glue touches it. He handled the glass with rubber gloves after cleaning that edge. He used new genuine spacers and top of glass moulding. The glue gun was a power unit that regulates the exact amount. I am very confident that this window is properly installed and will not leak.
    ..
    BTW: They did not have the plain green windshield in stock so the put in the "upgrade one" with the tint shade at the top. I don't know if I will like the shade at the top but I let him use it. The invoice says that they sold me the window less than list - for the price of the plain window. Total installed price $266.32.
  • acowboyfanacowboyfan Member Posts: 27
    So - has anyone actually gotten any resolution on this issue? I have a 99 Trooper w/Perf package, 99K miles, and just had the same/similar thing happen to me. I was on a fairly long road trip this weekend (400 miles round trip) when the TOD Check light came on and started flashing when I was about 5 miles from my destination. I was in 2WD at the time, and didn't notice/feel/hear anything different while driving. Once I got to my destination, I pulled out the manual and after searching for a bit, found the brief mention of "indicates a problem with the TOD system. Check with your Isuzu dealer". Great. Thanks for the detail.

    I drove the Trooper a few miles the next day, and the Check light was still flashing (note that the back wheel indicator for 2WD mode has remained solid the entire time), but again, no difference was noted while driving. I even enaged TOD for awhile, and moved the manual shifter into 4-Low and then back into 4-High, and no problems were noted (other than the Check light still flashing).

    As I was 200 miles away from home and had noticed no problems, I drove home yesterday (about 200 miles). The Check light flashed the entire time, but the Trooper drove fine, and I actually got somewhat better mileage than normal. This morning I took the Trooper in to my local crooked Isuzu dealer (see post #2609 in this thread) - the one who told me nearly 2 years and 30K miles ago that I needed a new tranny right away - to see if they could at least pull the code for me. They wanted $95 to do that, so I said "Thanks, but no".

    So, anyone have any ideas? I'm going to take it in to my in-laws' mechanic in a couple of days (hopefully he can pull the code at least), but I was wondering if bluedevils or anyone else had ever gotten any resolution on this one. Thanks...
  • makayemakaye Member Posts: 81
    Boxtrooper;
    Looks like you did great. Sounds like exactly the right procedure.
    I go without the upper tint. I will probably go with the tint next time (well, I hope there is no next time). I'm tall and the visor flips down too low for me, so the tint band may be better.
  • rachelhcrachelhc Member Posts: 1
    My situation is very similar. I took my Trooper on a 500 mile trip, and about 10 miles from returning home, the TOD CHECK light started flashing. The back wheel indicator is also flashing with the Check light. I took it to my Isuzu dealer when this happened, two months ago, and they said a retainer clip was missing, replaced it for $36.00, parts and labor. It didn't give me any problems for a few weeks, then I took my car to Sears to have the tires rotated and balanced, and two days after that the TOD lights started flashing again. I'm hoping that the retainer clip slipped during the tire work, but I'm not sure how to check this out on my own. Anyone know where they are so I can do it myself? Anyone know what else it might be? Thanks.
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Member Posts: 377
    If you do a search on this thread, you'll find more abou this. I think this has been discussed before and it usually comes down to a electrical connector issue. The main solenoid valve assembly on the front axle has a couple of multi-pin connectors on it and they have a retainer wire that keeps them in place. If that wire clip is loose it could allow the connector to work loose.

    Look under the front of your Trooper on the front side of the axle. There is a small shield protecting it which can be easily removed. Then you will be able to see the S.V. assembly and the connectors. Check em' out and see if there is a problem there or not.
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    The shaded area at the top of the windshield seems to make the inside of the Trooper a little less bright. I think it will be a good thing for on road driving, but off road the shade will be make it seem like I'm more inside a car than out in the wild. A slightly more indoor closed in feel. Imagine touring through an area looking at the mountains and ducking down below the shade to see what color the mountain is. I'm tall too and if I use the visor I use it only half way down, after the shade, I might not use the visor. I'll get used to it soon enough and forget that its there.
  • yngveyngve Member Posts: 12
    There have been a number of posts on this list warning of a first time flush (power flush) if the tranny is over xx,xxx miles (usually somewhere around 75k). The fear is that this type of service will dislodge some varnish which will then gum the check valves, or otherwise clog the works. I had mine done for the first time at 110k miles, and all has been well.

    I've found that shuddering similar to what you're describing can occur if the fluid level is low- I had a leak on the piston assembly O-ring on the side of the tranny which led to running low on fluid several times. In my case, the shudder appeared on the 1-2 upshift, eventually manifesting itself as full fledged slipping, and was worse under full power. Aamco told me I was looking at $1-2k for a rebuild, but the local dealer fixed me up for ~$150. He also told me that they had seen trannys with almost no fluid (and what was left was burnt all to hell), slipping in every gear, generally in bad shape get filled back up and run perfectly for another 100k miles +

    SYJ
  • jaronsonjaronson Member Posts: 1
    ipurchased my 98 slx with 28k miles at 30 k i replaced the tranny. at 60 k i replaced it again. no abuse or towing. after much fighting with my extended warranty company they paid for the second one --first was under acura warranty. ever since the second repair however ( iam now at 80k and dreading what may happen at 90k) there has been a noise like paper shuffling coming from the transfer case. the noise varies from barely audible to audible when the radio is on. any ideas what it could be
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    "any ideas what it could be" Yes, lets start with what the problem is not, you have proved that the transmission is not the problem. Because changing it only temporarily stopped the symptom.
    ..
    Examine what else is going on.
    ..
    Are you very certain that the proper transmissionfluid is in there? Call customer service at your favorite lubricants manufacturer to talk technical about fluids. ( RedLineOil is friendly and knowledgeable phone number at bottom).
    ..
    Are you certian that the cooling for the transmission that runs through your engine radiator is working properly? I think a blockage in the cooling lines would cause the transmission to run hot and wear out way earlier than normal, essentially performing an excellerated life high temperature torture test. Is the engine also running hotter than other Troopers? My Trooper's temperature always stays the same no matter how hard I drive it or tow with it, so I am sure that the cooling is up to the needs of the engine. I have a manual transmission though, so maybe my radiator is different because the manual transmission oil does not run through the radiator.
    ..
    When they replaced the transmission what did they re-use? Is that re-used part(s) possibly the problem since they remained in your system? Example they may have re-used the torque converter which is the oil pump that drives everything else in the automatic transmission.
    ..
    If you can show that they did not correct the problem before, they ought to pay to correct it right this time.
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Member Posts: 377
    If this was the case you should get a temperature lite on the lower part of the tachometer. That's assuming the sensor is OK and it is actually connected. The temperature of the transmission fluid is monitored if everything is working correctly electrically.
  • 99trooper99trooper Member Posts: 87
    hi all this may be a dumb question but i ordered the poly bushings from JC whitney and had my trooper at the dealer for service and asked them to install them. They called and told me there is no rear sway bar? I have a hitch, could that be why or is something else going on..this is a 1999 LTD trooper by the way..
  • silverghostsilverghost Member Posts: 154
    What? No, the hitch is irrelevant. Tell them to have it up on a hoist when you get there, then show them where it is. Unless someone removed it for some weird reason, it should be there.
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    If your sway bar is missing you can add it back. A previous owner may have removed sway bars to get more articulation for serious off road. I am puting a few links below that show the rear sway bar. I do not think a lift is a good idea for a Trooper that can already fit 285/75R16 tires with no lift or better with just the OME rear springs and shocks kit.

    http://www.isuzu-suvs.com/howto/trooppolybushings.html
    http://www.4x4wire.com/isuzu/projects/roundtrooper/
    http://www.sidewlk.homestead.com/Page3.html

    The sway bar bushings are an easy DIY project.
  • 99trooper99trooper Member Posts: 87
    silverghost and boxtrooper..thanks for the info. The Isuzu dealer said there is no rear sway bar...figure that out! I bought the car new so I don't see how it could be missing? When I get back over there I'll take a look myself.

    Thanks again..
  • mohawkmohawk Member Posts: 7
    Needing new shocks for the Trooper. I've read several positive posts regarding the Monroe Reflex products.

    However, I can't seem to find a part number for the Trooper.

    Does anyone have the number?
  • silverghostsilverghost Member Posts: 154
    '92 - '02 use the same KYB part numbers. That's most likely the case with Monroes, too. Look up '99 part numbers on their web site.
  • jeffd2jeffd2 Member Posts: 1
    My sister recently got 1999 Trooper. It needs oil all the time. There is no visible leakage and the tailpipe appears okay. Does anyone know where the oil is going?

    Thanks,

    Jeff
  • silverghostsilverghost Member Posts: 154
    Run a search here on "oil usage," "oil consumption." etc. Tons of info on that topic. Short answer - it's a very common complaint, although I have NEVER had to add oil to my '01 LS 2WD. :)
  • superskeetsuperskeet Member Posts: 14
    Go to WalMart and get a bottle of CD2 Oil Detergent. Run it for 2000 miles, change oil and add another bottle of CD2.. It should take care of it.
  • gackayounggackayoung Member Posts: 5
    I have had this rig since last November - I love it so much but have just had a little bad luck !

    1 - 60,000 miles on her
    2 - starter just went
    3 - driving home from the mountains lost a clutch - took it in (wasn't clutch just cylinder) while in had the timing belt replaced - go to pick it up and is knocking like crazy which I knew was the tensioner - I was stranded at the mechanics so I took the car home - while driving home noticed the revs were off and that the vehicle was reacting like redline at about 4.5 rpms - there was also no torque whatsover - get to my house - pop the hood and the coolant is full of oil and the smell of an overheated engine was apparant. Man - this has all happened in like 2 1/2 weeks - the tow truck is coming tomorrow.

    Questions - 1. Coolant - think it is head gasket - 3rd major problem - is this common
    2. did the timing belt need to be replaced or was it the tensioner all along - it was like 250 to have the timing done etc! - what are the estimated costs for this solution - and the gasket if anyone knows !
    3. Clutch - feels loose since it went - there was fluid in it but with the milage where it is am not sure it could be worne ? Any thoughts.
    4. What the hell else can go wrong on it and why is it happening at 100,000 kms!!!!
    3.2 Litre SOHC 5 speed - black - was soon to be reaised with 31 and calmini 2 inch lift but am hesitating ? Although once done will just be a winter veh. For the first time in our relationship I am mad at my trooper - and the mechanic I took it to for being such an idiot (when the starter went I had a tune up done and none of this was noticed !!! ) -

    Thanks
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    Does your mechanic have malpractice insurance? I think the mechanic put the timing belt on wrong. If I am correct, the mechanic should have noticed as soon as it started up. You should not have driven it home that way.
    ..
    I had a 95 3.2L 5speed. I put 140K miles with just scheduled maintenance. It was running and looking like new inside and out. I did have to do battle with the lifter tick issue, but really clean oil corrected that. I would still be driving it except that it was rear ended so hard the air bags went off, air bags are a $6000 repair, so it was totalled. Before the 1995 I had a 1984 1.9L 4speed manual transmission Trooper 200K miles no problems, and I now have a 2001 3.5L 5 speed 75K miles and no troubles. So I think the clutch should last 200K miles easy, unless it is driven by a high school kid that likes to pop the clutch.
    ..
    I never had a starter issue either. I think continuing to use a battery that is marginal makes the started pull more amps and get hotter, so don't let the battery hang around after it starts to crank slow change it, and keep the terminals clean. The Trooper's battery box will hold a very large 27 size battery perfectly in case you want extra capacity to run an inverter or something.
    Battery Glossary http://www.rtpnet.org/~teaa/battery.html
    More Battery Info http://www.lifelinebatteries.com/marinegraphs.php
    ..
    Ultimate High Capacity Battery that will fit perfectly in the Trooper
    http://www.lifelinebatteries.com/rvflyer.php?id=11
    ..
    All that said, if you cannot at least get your machanic to help (free parts and take it to a more competant mechanic, or free labor and you buy the parts and hope he/she gets it right this time) toward your engine rebuild, I think it might be too expensive ($2500 to $4000 half parts and half labor) to repair. If you get free labor, it will take a long long time to get the work done since the machanic has to eat, so go buy a 50mpg diesel jetta as your high mpg commuter while the Trooper is being fixed. But if you do repair or replace the engine it will be like new. Please keep us posted. Is the rest of your Trooper in good enough shape to justify the expensive engine work? After all this you will still have the commuter so that frees up the Trooper to be more of an offraod truck.
    ..
    Go find my 1995 Trooper in a truck junk yard somewhere, its engine is in wonderful shape evn with the high miles, then just swap, might be cheaper than the overhaul.
  • gackayounggackayoung Member Posts: 5
    @ -

    That said - I hope the damage isn't that bad - that engine prior to this was solid! (burned oil but am now changing it every 3500 km or so which I think actually works out cheaper!!!

    Thanks for the info on the battery and all - it is appreciated - I will keep posted on the progress of the fix - am thinking if negotiations go bad with this mechanic (who is also a client of mine) then I will ship it over to the isuzu dealer nearby - which is what I probably should have done in the first place.

    Good to know about the air bags - thats pretty crazy. As for the clutch - I am 2nd owner - first was a housewife who used it to run around the kids etc! So an adjustment is probably all she needs!

    I am in Calgary Alberta - is the junkyard nearby :-)

    Wish me luck - this truck is in magnificent shape - no rust - just waxed her up before all this - but as is always said - it is not about what is on the outside .... it is the inside right now that counts!!!!
  • costello1costello1 Member Posts: 60
    My lights are blinking again . I looked at the sensors and they look to be connected . Are the the sensors under a shield held by 2 bolts??

    Here is my question, I really don't care all that much for the TOD system. I care more for the 4wd low . I only use 4wd when I drive on the beach so the AWD TOD system I can live without.

    Is the 4 low set up seperate from the TOD , in other words can I use it without using the TOD system. I just noticed that when I put it in 4low the wheels on the dash are all blinking. Am I in 4wd when this happens?? This takes place when I have it not in the "auto phase".In the past when I drove on the beach I was always in the auto mode . I just to make sure that I am in 4wd before I get on the beach,so any help would be great.

    Another question , what is causing all the problems with the TOD system?? I checked the connections and the hoses and they all seemed OK. I really don't want to put a lot of money into this if i don't have to !!
  • serranotserranot Member Posts: 113
    This is probably the speed sensors that are in the transfer case. Give me some time and I'll walk you through how to pull the codes using a jumper wire.

    Regards,
    Tom
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    The junk yard was going to auction with my 1995 Trooper, so it is probably not there anymore. It, or its parts are likely still in the South East USA..
    ..
    BTW, what does gasoline cost up there in Calgary? Its $2.80 to $3.00 per gallon around here.
    ..
    Is the diesel Trooper available in Canada? The latest diesel Troopers get 31 mpg on UK imperial gallons, which is around 28 mpg on USA gallons. Sorry I don't know the km/L of it.
  • de3de3 Member Posts: 1
    I hope someone can help me this annoying problem. My main cruise control light comes on but when I try to set a cruise speed nothing happens. I check my fuses and replced the cruise control main relay, but still nothing. Any suggestions?

    -de
  • serranotserranot Member Posts: 113
    In order to pull the codes, take the OBDII access cover off the lower dash to the left of the steering wheel. It's kind of a square panel with rounded corners. You will see an electrical connector in there that is shaped like a trapezoid, with the top part of the connector shorter than the bottom.

    The manual says to ground pin 8 and then turn the ignition to the "on" position and count the flashes of the light. One flash, a pause, and two flashes would equate to "12."

    I learned the hard way that the connector is inverted from the way it shows up in the manual. So, if yours is like mine, pin 8 is the little hole in the lower left corner. If your connector is the other way, i.e., the long side of the trapezoid is on the top of the connector, then pin 8 is the upper right hole. To ground it, you need to get a tiny piece of metal, like a small piece of copper wire, that will fit into the hole. Run the wire from the hole to an exposed piece of metal under the dash to ground it.

    Once you get codes, tell me what they are and I'll look them up.

    Regards,
    Tom
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    I am working through issues with my 4wd system. I think the solenoids on the front axle simply control the front hubs engaging. I think the round plug like thing next to them is the speed sensor Mine solenoids went bad, I could not get 4wd tod or low to engage at all, however I was able to get the transmission doubled when the lever was switched to low.

    Theory
    I *think* 4wd is on all the time. The hubs get engaged via those solenoids that control vaccuum. If they are bad, they short out the 4wd system altogether.

    I think the button and lever control the transfer case locking mechanism and transmission gearing. When either one is selected it also locks the hubs. If 4wd is actually on all the time, when not engaged the center must be like an open differential and the hubs are not locked.

    With the button pressed, you get engaged center with clutching and front hubs locked. With the lever in low the transfer case is locked and low gears.

    The flashing could be from a short anywhere in the system. I replaced my solenoids and have 4wd back, but no TOD because the clutch isn't working in the center differential. Not quite 4wd high, since the censors still decide when to route power, but the driveshaft is still turning and jams up around corners.
  • gackayounggackayoung Member Posts: 5
    No need for the junk yard trooper - she is back.

    1. Got the tensionr adjusted and sounds a hell of a lot better - no ticks period coming from the engine and is sounding as solid as ever
    2. My clutch still feels funny but am now thinking most likely because my other car and the feel of it (have been driving it now for almost a damn month!) so we will see
    3. Took it out for a rip - maybe I am brave or just stupid but when ever I have repairs conducted I go out and run the vehicle high - this is how I discovered this rev issue - which is still there so I will have to see

    When hammering the throttle and shifting within 1-2000 of redline it is this - 1st gear solid all the way through - second solid all the way through - third gear feels like I hit redline 1500 rpm short of redline - 4th gear solid until the 1500 mark prior to redline and 5th I never got there cause I ran out of runway. Third gear was the most notable. I really don't know if this feel was there prior as I so rarely run the vehicle that close - with the gas miliage this truck has I am always very conservative on the throttle - and cause it is slow as hell anyway so whats the point!

    3. I flushed the coolant and it seems to be ok now - am still confused as to what happend as my head gasket was solid. whatever - if the engine blows into the junk yard !

    4. Am now going to lift this thing and add some mud's - Any suggestions on lift (hight / brand) and tire's (31-32's - general and off road - a canadian winter vehicle! and a little fun!) also - also any suggestions on well guards or whatever the plastic majiggys that protect your wheel wells...

    whats with this number system - oh well am happy to have my Trooper back - BTW - free of charge on the 2nd trip - escaped the whole ordeal with a free timing belt and a coolant flush! Saves me doing it this winter!

    As for Gas - how dare you bring up such a sensative subject *&&*^#^% :-)

    1.02 just down the road which has come down from 1.23 last week which is $4.65 canadian per US Gallon,,,,,,, which is $3.98 in USD - Enjoy the cheap gas :cry:

    and no diesel trooper which pisses me off cause I am a huge fan - I have seen one for sale a while back - a trooper 1 84is if I remember but it was imported from europe with right hand drive... other then that notta !

    Thanks
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    No lift needed for 32" tires, 33" fit with OME. I Have the OME suspension upgrade firm ride version. There are also sway away stiffer torsion bars for the front available separately.
    http://www.arbusa.com/old_man_emu_suspension.htm
    The OME springs give 1.5 inches lift and OME shocks allow more travel. I believe that the tire of my choice the Bridgestone Dueler AT REVO 285/75R16 would fit and look great without any body lift. Go with the Revos, but make sure and keep them ballanced and rotated, they are initially very very quiet, but with tread issues they become much louder, but no louder than the BFGoodrich AT-TK0 is new.

    I cannot imagine driving with MT tires on the road for the noise of it, and poor MPG.

    Found this picture of you out puting your trooper through its paces:
    http://www.isuzu-suvs.com/gallery/flyintrooper.html
    ..
    Go to www.TireRack.com to compare tires. Keep in mind that the larger the lugs the lower the MPG, and the greater the noise. The MT tires will be twice as loud as the AT tires, the relative noise rating is within the AT or MT group.
    ..
    I actually am running the Yokohama G051 265/70R16, they are big enough to look nice, and the tread is quiet, good in sand and rain, and I think I may be getting a little better MPG than I would if I had the Revos. I had the Revos before, in a 255/70R16, and they will go anywhere. I needed my wife to want to ride and my MPG has to be as good as her minivan in town, so I went with the G051's this time. I will probably go back to the Revos later, when I have more time for offroad. I would like to have two sets of tires, one the Revos 285/75R16 the other G051 265/70R16 but I don't want to store them.
    ..
    For the top of the revs try these things: Air Filter, Fuel filter, Fuel Injector Cleaner, DirectHits.
    ..
    Fuel Injector Cleaners I like once or twice a year:
    http://www.redlineoil.com/products_fueladditives.asp
    http://www.valvoline.com/pages/products/product_detail.asp?product=92
    ..
    DirectHit are awesome for the top end high torque uses such as towing. I went from 9.9MPG to 11.2MPG on a route I tested many times pulling a 4000 lb. boat. I also was getting 16.7mpg around town and 19mpg highway with directhits, but those are only maybe 1mpg better. The directhits provide a much quicker engine response, that alone justifies their use. They have a kit with low resistance wires, resistorless plugs and the directhits units that really works well, less than 1 hour to install. Money back gauranteed. http://www.directhits.com/
    ..
    Stock replacement air filter from K&N: http://www.knfilters.com/
  • bawbcatbawbcat Member Posts: 118
    On the 98+ Troopers, the front hubs are permanently engaged. I believe the solenoid on the front axle merely connects/disconnects a junction in the axle. To be honest, I'm not sure what purpose that serves. You are correct that either the button or lever should cause the solenoid on the front axle to engage. It should be engaged for any 4WD mode, and disengaged for 2WD.

    Selection of transmission low/high range is purely mechanical, and is controlled by the lever.

    The function of the center differential varies, depending on the positions of the button and switch. If you are in low, the center diff is locked regardless of the button position. If you are in high and the button is not pressed, the center diff is completely open (i.e. no power to front drivetrain). If you are in high and the button is pressed, then TOD determines the state of the center diff, anywhere from fully locked to fully open.
  • wlbrown9wlbrown9 Member Posts: 867
    Check and see if your brake lights work. My 2000 Trooper LS was exactly the same about a year ago, Main cruise light on, but nothing if I tried to set it. Noticed the brake lights not working a few weeks later. Once I replaced the fuse that controlled the brake lights, the cruise started working again... I tried checking fuses, but it seemed that the ones the manual showed was not the one that actually controlled both.
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    Did you buy the trooper and did a new alternator fix the problem? I have a 1994 trooper that is showing the same problems and I replaced the alternator and it is still not working. Any help and a reply would be much appreciated. Thanks
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