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Isuzu Trooper

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Comments

  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    Here is some info you might like and I suggest that you could spray something like wd 40 on the intake gasket surface edges.....changes in idle would occur and it might identify exactly if and where a problem may lie:
    2001 Isuzu Truck Trooper LS 4WD V6-3.5L
    Vehicle Level Engine, Cooling and Exhaust Engine Intake Manifold Technical Service Bulletins Engine - Intake Manifold Bolt Torque Revision

    Engine - Intake Manifold Bolt Torque Revision

    TSB SB03-01-S003

    Gasket Intake Manifold to Cylinder Head Bolt Torque Specifications (Service Manual Revision)

    ISSUE DATE: JULY, 2003

    Affected Vehicles
    1998-2003 Isuzu models equipped with a 3.2L or 3.5L engine.

    Service Information

    2001 Isuzu Truck Trooper LS 4WD V6-3.5L
    Vehicle Level Technical Service Bulletins All Technical Service Bulletins Electronic Throttle Control - Code Diagnosis


    Electronic Throttle Control - Code Diagnosis


    BULLETIN NUMBER:
    IB00-04-S006

    ISSUE DATE:
    DECEMBER 2000

    GROUP:
    ELECTRICAL

    2000 - 2001 ISUZU V-6 ELECTRONIC THROTTLE CONTROL

    AFFECTED VEHICLES

    All 2000 - 2001 Isuzu V-6 engines with Electronic Throttle Control.

    SERVICE INFORMATION

    All 2000 - 2001 Isuzu V-6 engines with Electronic Throttle Control may exhibit multiple codes for any condition identified in the Accelerator Pedal Assembly and/or the Throttle Assembly. In order to clarify the diagnostics available with the Tech 2 and the PowerLink, this bulletin will present four possible symptoms that actually help identify the root cause.

    The Isuzu Electronic Throttle Control System will usually set multiple codes no matter which driveability symptoms are present. To best diagnose the condition, the service advisor and technician should ask the customer when the MIL and Reduced Power Light sets and if any driveability symptoms were present. The most common codes associated with their respective sensor and/or throttle motor circuits are shown.

    The four most common symptoms associated with Electronic Throttle are:

    ^ The Reduced Power Light may be on with the MIL on/off with no driveability symptoms existing at the time of code detection or during diagnostics. Usually P1271, P1273 and P1275 are stored in memory. The code(s) set at key-up and are related to correlation errors. Remember, when the TP1 and the TP2 or the AP1 and the AP2 actual readings are added together, the total should be 100%. If the variation is at or exceeds 5%, a P1275 may set. In order to duplicate the condition, install the Tech 2 or the PowerLink and perform a quick-snapshot prior to the initial cold start. Look for a glitch on the AP1 reading

    ^ The second complaint will usually be related to the MIL and Reduced Power Light with codes for throttle position sensors or accelerator position sensors. The customer will also complain of lack-of-power. This condition is most likely related to loss of a five-volt reference. Therefore one AP sensor and one TP sensor are affected. A P1275 is definitely present.

    ^ The third complaint will also be related to the Reduced Power Light being on, the MIL on and the vehicle in a "Forced Idle" mode. This may be related to loss of both five-volt references, loss of both AP sensor readings, and/or loss of both TP sensor readings.

    ^ The final complaint is also related to a Reduced Power Light present. the MIL on, and a forced shut-down condition. The vehicle will crank but will not start. This condition may be related to a Throttle Motor condition and/or the loss of either or both five-volt references for the Throttle Position Sensors and the Accelerator Position Sensors.


    Use this bulletin as a guide in determining the direction and starting point of diagnostics for the Isuzu V-6 Electronic Throttle Systems.







    The following information has been revised in the Engine section of the Service Manual. Use the torque chart when installing the Intake Manifold to the Cylinder Head.

    NOTE: Information released on paper and electronic format prior to bulletin release cannot be updated. For the most current and up to date information refer to ISUZUONE. com.
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    I was not very explicit when I made my suggestion in the previous post.
    Have you checked to see if any codes were set....some may be in memory but not lighting the check engine light (CEL).
    First I would check ALL vacuum lines including emission lines for cuts, holes, burn throughs etc; before assuming it is a gasket problem. I should have told you to start the vehicle and have it idling (highest intake suction condition) when you spray the intake to gasket to head sealing areas with wd-40. Upon doing this, if you hear or feel a change in the idle (roughness or improvement or a change in idle rpm), that would indicate a gasket problem. I am very leery about some mechanics who might suggest using any other compound (gasoline or ether) instead of an inert substance like wd-40 or similar substance. Using a fuel type substance might substantially increase the detection odds for an intake leak, but such flammable materials can pose an even greater burn hazard to you and the vehicle. Please do not use any flammable material to check.
    Although it was a common problem for Isuzus in general, for your year vehicle, I could find no intake gasket Technical Service bulletins.
    There is another bulletin about the accelerator position sensor, but only applies if a code is set (The engine may occasionally experience idle fluctuation and/ or the MIL(malfunction indicator light) will illuminate because an accelerator position sensor (APS) DTC is set; P1271, P1273, P1275, P1280, or P1285. Also the Reduced Power light may be on.

    In the event it is a gasket leak, the info previously supplied might help about torque for the manifold bolts.
    good luck
  • lamprolampro Member Posts: 2
    Great idea re WD40 and vac leak test. The intermittent nature of the idle problem may be an issue but, as you indicated, a change of rpm or roughness may be revealed. I agree, no flammables. Can't imagine using gasoline!!!??? Will run through the process this weekend.

    So far, no codes have set off the CEL. I'll have to run down a place for a code check. Living in the boondocks makes things a little more interesting with diagnostic problems-can't hop down the street to the local Autozone for a code check. Should probably get a code reader for the shop.

    In any case, appreciate all the information. I'll post when I finally run this critter down.

    Tim
  • katgrekatgre Member Posts: 8
    Hey Scott, I say PASSSSSS on the trooper! I have an 2001 Trooper S w/74k I've replaced the engine at 67K and then the Tranny 3k later. This Truck has been a NIGHTMARE! I got the truck w/7k drove ok for awhile then the check engine problem started. It seems that the piece of cramp has been in the shop so many times I lost count.

    I thought I did my research before my purchase but not enough. When my engine locked ISUZU did NOTHING. My mechanic suggested I google search "ISUZU PROBLEMS/ENGINE and WOW what a surprise! I printed various complaints, called Isuzu HQ and my Rep was never in his office. What kills me is that they know of the problems

    So Far I've had:
    3-gas cap sensors
    1-Engine(DRINKS way too much OIL) I now check my oil every 500 miles and change it every 2500 miles
    Tranny
    My vacuum switch keeps going out on the TOD
    My A/C is horrible

    And yes I took care of my Trooper, regular oil changes anytime a light came on I was taking it to the dealership...Which never could find anything wrong. I had no warning about the engine it locked up on me while on the highway.

    I could keep going on but I wont I say stay away! Definitely do a google search this will help make your decision I hope.

    I want to get rid of the piece of crap so bad I struggle everyday when I drive it whether to trade or keep

    Good Luck :sick:
  • davem5davem5 Member Posts: 8
    I just passed 100k on my 2001 2wd LS. I love my Trooper - very comfortable and roomy for me and my passengers, plenty of storage in the back, yet the overall size of the truck isn't overbearing. Yes, it "lumbers" around like a, yeah you got it, truck.

    My transmission wnet bad around 60k, but Isuzu put in a new one with no hassles (I did have to pay $515 for some electronic selector sensor which was not covered). In the life of the truck I replaced the original shocks at 5K, added stabilizers around the same time, and put Michelins on at 40k.

    Last week, in celebration of the Trooper's birthday, I bought it a tank of premium (it couldn't care less), had it detailed, and had the timing belt, serpentine belt, water pump, gas filter, hoses and plugs replaced, the injectors cleaned, and the cooling system, EGK, and transmission flushed (all around $1500 at the dealer, who I return to only because of the 10/120 warranty. This will be my last visit, then I'll return to my old trusted mechanic who kept my Nissan pickup running well past it's expiration date and 300k.....).

    I love the subtle classy look of my Trooper -it's timeless in the Land Rover-old Landcruiser sort of way. Simple front end, simple back end, simple profile.

    Yes, I wish it could get better gas mileage (16 mpg, but I drive like a maniac, then hit bumper-to-bumper in my daily grind...). I wish I had more confidence in the dealer (a combo Isuzu-Lincoln/Mercury dealer - talk about picking the worst sales combo out there!) or even Isuzu USA - they've really dropped the ball these past 6 years.

    Back then, even at the tail end of the SUV craze, they had the Trooper, Axiom, and Rodeo. In years prior, they made some decent sporty cars, like the Impulse, turbo I-mark. It's a shame, really.

    Anyway, I suggest you go for it...I've found to be a great vehicle overall.
  • concoursalconcoursal Member Posts: 3
    I had my 98K '00 LS tranny flushed a while back. Soon afterwards, when I tried to accelerate moderately from a dead stop, it felt like it was slipping than would catch and slam shift. I returned it to the dealer today, and they claimed it was a quart low on fluid and was fine after a top off. They also claimed that no damage was done to the transmission. Is this true? I haven't picked it up as it is also getting a new axle seal complements of my 10/120 warranty, but the tranny problem has been on my mind all day.
  • pshewardpsheward Member Posts: 11
    :sick:
    Just got stranded for the first time ever by one of my Troopers. Dealer replaced manifold gasket flushed Transmission and said no worries. Drove car from Phila. to Maryland, 60 miles, and as I pulled into town same problem all over. 02 LS 4WD 107K. Regular Mobil One changes, other then the TOD sensor needing replacement twice. no other problems. Is this an extension fo the Manifold issue or something worse? Like my Troop way to much but am starting to worry. Any advice greatly appreciated post and answer or send me an email. thanks.
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    Hi, thought you would be interested in knowing exactly how Isuzu says a tranny should be flushed. Note that there is a flow test that you could ask the dealer if they performed. Checking the trans fluid should be first priority, as if they left any solvent in the trans from the flush it would, I think, evaporate and that could lower the trans fluid level. Worth checking!

    2002 Isuzu Truck Trooper LS 4WD V6-3.5L
    Vehicle Level Transmission and Drivetrain Technical Service Bulletins All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Flushing Procedures


    A/T - Flushing Procedures


    BULLETIN NUMBER:
    IB02-05-S004

    ISSUE DATE:
    NOVEMBER 2002

    GROUP:
    TRANSMISSION

    AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUSHING PROCEDURES

    AFFECTED VEHICLES

    All current Isuzu vehicles with automatic transmissions that requires a transmission replacement.

    SERVICE INFORMATION

    As part of the normal repair procedure for replacement of the automatic transmission, flushing the transmission cooler and associated lines/pipes must be performed.

    To avoid a second failure, the flushing procedure is required to insure that all debris and contaminants including metal, band material and burnt transmission fluid are removed prior to installation of the new transmission. The flush procedure is part of the replacement procedure and if not properly performed will often result in immediate failure of the replacement transmission.

    The flushing procedure should be completed using a Transmission Cooling System Flusher (J-35944 or equivalent) to insure that all of the pipes and cooler are reverse flushed.

    Follow the flushing procedure provided by the manufacturer of your flushing equipment. These procedures should be used as a standard practice after removing a defective transmission:

    1. After removing the defective transmission, identify the two transmission cooler lines. Identify which line is the outlet and which line is the return line to the transmission cooler.

    2. Attach the flush machine so that the flow of flush solution is the reverse of the transmission fluid flow. Be sure to use only approved Oil Cooler Flushing Fluid.

    3. After the flushing procedure is complete and the replacement transmission has been installed a flow test must be completed.


    FLOW TEST PROCEDURES

    Important :The Flow Test must he performed after the flush to ensure that all flushing solution and water is removed from the system.

    1. Connect a hose from the transmission cooler return outlet side to an empty container capable of measuring fluid level. (Figure 1)

    2. Confirm the transmission is filled with automatic transmission fluid. Refer to Fluid Capacity Specifications in the workshop manual for the correct automatic transmission fluid capacity.

    3. Start the engine with the transmission in Park range and run for 30 seconds after fluid begins to flow from the discharge hose. A minimum of 1.9L (2 quarts) must be discharged during this 30 second run time.

    4. If the fluid flow meets or exceeds 1.9L (2quarts) in 30 seconds the flow test is complete.

    5. Reconnect all hoses to the transmission.

    6. Check and adjust automatic transmission fluid level (refer to the workshop manual for proper procedure and capacity).

    Here is how to check fluid. but above all be careful, as the engine is idling and exhaust is hot, and be sure to chock wheels in both directions on level surface:

    FLUID LEVEL
    When adding or changing fluid, use only DEXRON (R) -III.

    CAUTION: DO NOT OVERFILL. Overfilling will cause foaming, loss of fluid, abnormal shifting and possible damage to the transmission.

    Park the vehicle on level ground and apply the parking brake firmly.
    Check fluid level with engine running at idle. NOTE: Be sure that transmission fluid temperature is below 30 °C (86 °F).
    Move the selector lever through all gear ranges.
    Move the selector lever to "Park".
    Let engine idle for 3 minutes and open the overfill screw (1).
    Add ( DEXRON (R) -III) transmission fluid until it flows out over the overfill screw opening.
    Let engine idle until a fluid temperature between 32 °C (90 °F) and 57 °C (135 °F) is reached, then close the overfill screw (1). Torque: 38 Nm (28 ft. lbs.) NOTE: Check transmission fluid temperature with scan tool. Minimum fluid level 57 °C (135 °F) Maximum fluid level 32 °C (90 °F) I will try to find the link showing the photo of trans openings if you need them. The same trans is used from at least 1999 on Truprs, so any view will do.

    CAUTION: Do not open overfill screw with engine stopped.

    CAUTION: DO NOT CHECK FLUID LEVEL UNDER THESE CONDITIONS:

    Immediately after driving at sustained highway speeds.
    In heavy city traffic during hot weather.
    If vehicle is towing a trailer.
    If the vehicle has been operated under these conditions, shut the engine off and allow the vehicle to "cool" for thirty (30) minutes. After the cool down period, restart the vehicle and continue from step 2 above.
  • ejr8fanejr8fan Member Posts: 6
    I recently bought a 99 Trooper. It is in excellent condition, but the transmission has become "clunky". It has 87,000 miles on it. By "clunky", I mean that there is a clunking noise when I shift it from park to drive or drive to park. It also clunks when I come up to a stop sign and it downshifts from 2nd to 1st gear. Has anyone else experienced this? I was hoping it was U-joints, but I fear it is not.
  • green11green11 Member Posts: 22
    I have a 99 trooper that does a similar thing. I bought mine 2 1/2 years ago with 74,000 miles and mine now has 96,000. I have yet to have one repair. Not so much from drive to park, but mine does clunk often from downshift 2nd to 1st. It has been doing so for about a year and a half. I was wanting it to be U-joint, but I feel it is probably transmission.

    That being said I would not do a transmission flush and just let it be. Mine does not seem to be getting worse. The transmission is the Achilles heel of these vehicles. My father has a ford explorer that had a transmission doing much worse things than this at about 100,000 miles and he has put on another 150,000 miles since then with no repairs. If it is indeed the transmission it could last a very long time or go out soon. Pray to the car gods.
  • wlbrown9wlbrown9 Member Posts: 867
    In the Trooper Prolems & Solutions discussion LOST posted the following about the Trans Mode switch...I have had a few issues with that. A couple of times I have had to pull over and completly restart the Trooper to correct this. (Indicated N or R when in Drive, plus really more a bang than a clunk when upshifting or downshifting.)

    "You need to check the Transmission Mode switch assembly to see if water has gotten inside. Have you noticed if the gear selection display on your instrument panel is dim or flickering when you shift from park to drive? The mode selection switch is located on the drivers side of the transmission ,it has a heat shield attached to it to protect it from the exhaust pipe that runs right next to it.
    I had the same problem as you are having now, I removed the switch assy from the transmission (held on by 3 small bolts) and one electrical connection. I dismantled the switch and found that all the grease inside had dried up and the switch contacts were shorting on each other. I cleaned out the switch and relubricated it with dielectric grease . Make sure to install the switch exactly as you found it as the position of the switch is adjustable and Very important as it tells the computer what gear you have selected. Hope this helps. "
  • ejr8fanejr8fan Member Posts: 6
    Thanks for the input. wlbrown9, I noticed in your bio that you are an Arkansas Razorback fan. I live in Conway, AR. and I'm a huge Hogs fan! Can't wait till Sept. 2nd! Oh, by the way, the gear selection display on my Trooper seems to be working fine, but I'll check the mode selection switch just to rule that out if nothing else.
  • skill124skill124 Member Posts: 5
    2002 Trooper, all of a sudden my tail-lights and instrument panel light do not turn on when I turn on my headlights.. Everything else works, just those 2 things. I tried checking all the fuses and bulbs, and all seem ok. Dealer said I needed a whole combo switch - to the tune of 400 bucks! There has to be an easier way of fixing or checking this?!

    Any suggestions - or a wiring diagram??

    skiller
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    hi, here is link to diagram of the wiring schematic pertaining to your vehicle. How did you check your fuses, as it is very common for a blown fuse to put out the running and illumination lights on the IP but for the headlights to continue working. I would use a voltage/ohm meter to check the fuses for this circuit before I went any further. I include the fusible link diagram as well, as you should have power at one side of fuse 8, and if you do not, then link may be cooked. I'm no expert at reading these diagrams, so feel free to troubleshoot your own way. If you need other areas just post or email me with specifics. good luck

    http://www.carspace.com/atfdmike/Albums/ISUZU%20TROOPER%20FORUM/2002truprlight1.- - JPEG/photo/v./photo.jpg

    http://www.carspace.com/atfdmike/Albums/ISUZU%20TROOPER%20FORUM/2002truprlight2.- gif/photo/v./photo.jpg
  • cracoviancracovian Member Posts: 337
    Our 6-CD changer whirls, beeps, and then spits out the Er1 message. I've got 6 disks in there right now and it had worked for 4 years since new (2002). Is there anything that can be done to troubleshoot or fix it? Should I open it somehow? I would at least like to get the CDs out... Can any other non-factory unit be installed in its place? Has anyone tried? I guess my beloved Trooper is not as bulletproof as it used to be...
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    This is not the last word on your problem, but here is what Isuzu says in their Technical Service bulletin, and I see that their bottom line is to return to them for service, and of course it is not covered by warranty. Maybe someone else knows more about how to deal with the problem, but here you go:
    2002 Isuzu Truck Trooper LTD 4WD V6-3.5L
    Vehicle Level Accessories and Optional Equipment Radio, Stereo, and Compact Disc Technical Service Bulletins Audio System - CD Player Precautions to Prevent Jamming
    Audio System - CD Player Precautions to Prevent Jamming

    BULLETIN NUMBER:
    IB02-13-S001
    ISSUE DATE:
    APRIL 2002
    GROUP:
    ACCESSORIES

    CD PLAYER PRECAUTIONS

    AFFECTED VEHICLES
    All current SUV models with CD player/changer.

    NOTE: This is not a warranty repair, any charges incurred due to CD Player misuse will be the customers responsibility.

    SERVICE INFORMATION

    Some vehicles may experience a situation where the CD player may become inoperative due to jammed CD's or incompatible CD media in the player. If this situation occurs the vehicle operator should be advised of the following conditions that may be responsible for this condition:

    1. Some CD-R's will not play in the CD player due to the thickness or quality of the CD, as well as variables in the "burning" process itself. In some cases the inside edges of the center opening may be rough or have jagged edges causing the CD to jam.

    NOTE: Current deck is not compatible with CD-RW and it will not play at all.

    2. Labels that are affixed to the CD may peel (especially in hot weather) causing the CD to jam in the player (see figure 1).

    3. CD's should not be used that have had more than one label affixed to the CD, this can cause the CD to jam in the player.

    4. In vehicles with CD magazine, caution should be taken to insure only one CD is inserted into each disc tray (see figure 2). The correct loading procedures can be found in the Owner's Manual. Failure to follow procedures, the CD player will become inoperative resulting in damage to the player/magazine.

    5. In vehicles with the in-dash CD changer caution must be taken to load CD's following the procedures in the Owner's Manual or the CD operations manual provided with the vehicle. Caution should be taken to load CD's only when the CD load Indicator Light is flashing. Not waiting for the indicator light to flash can cause the CD's to jam and may load two CD's in the same slot causing the player to become inoperative requiring service at the dealership.

    NOTE: - Fujitsu 10 (Rodeo - UE) CD player units show "WAIT" if it is not ready for loading

    - Nakamichi and Fujitsu 10 (Trooper - UX) CD player units have an amber light that flashes if it is not ready to load.

    - Clarion (Axiom - UP) CD player units display "Disc Check" if it is not ready to load.

    6. MINI-CD's or odd shaped CD's are not compatible with the CD changer and may cause damage to the player if used, or the CD.

    7. Warped CD's should not be loaded into the play as they will cause the (D to jam and may not eject the CD. (When CD's are not in use, eject the discs and place them in their cases. Store them in a cool, dry place, away from direct sunlight.)

    8. In order to maintain proper CD operation and sound quality the CD should be cleaned if they get fingerprints, oil or dust on the surfaces. They should be cleaned with a soft clean cloth from center to edge, always in a straight line.

    9. The use of scratched or dirty CD's in the player may cause the CD to skip or cause a popping/clicking noise to be heard while they are playing.

    If it is determined that a CD player needs repair refer, to Section 7 of the Service Policy and Procedures Manual for Exchange Program procedures and details.
  • pugger1pugger1 Member Posts: 42
    I spend my summers in the mountains of Colorado and for the past three years I have had a check enginge light on my 2002 Trooper. The light refers one to the gas canister that is located by the fuel tank. the canister has been replaced twice and this summer they blew it out instead of replacement. The problem only comes up in the summer time as each and every summer the same problem. The rest of the year no such problem. The dealership in north Denver was a bit mysterious about the canister and I wonder why it is such a problem in the mountains and can I replace the thing myself? What is the proper name for this canister? Also the gas milage on this vehicle has decreased over the past months and I wonder if anyone has ideas for improvements. Mileage is down 3 to 6 miles per gallon. Way bad when pulling my utility trailer, down to 9 or 10 mpg. I have cleaned the EGR valve assembly and the PCV valve is good. Thanks for the help.
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    Hi, hopefully someone will post a more specific suggestion, but meanwhile, here is what Isuzu says about your canister.
    You could post the code the check lite is warning about, as that would be much more specific than what can be supposed here. There is really little to test on the canister except to check it and hoses for leaks and cracks. The purge valve which is operated by the ecm computer also must work correctly, and a vacuum guage would be a good tool to check to see if it is functioning properly. The Isuzu manual gives a detailed check list of how to check the purge valve circuit, but you will need a vacuum guage, vacuum source, voltage/ohm meter and a fair head about how to troubleshoot an automotive problem. If you decide to try it yourself, post again and I will try to get you more information.
    As for your mileage, it definitely sounds like there is a problem, but aside from a vacuum leak or need for a tune up I would be guessing as to why it is so poor.
    Following is what book says:

    Non-Electrical Components

    Purge/Vacuum Hoses. Made of rubber compounds, these hoses route the gasoline fumes from their sources to the canister and from the canister to the intake air flow.

    EVAP Canister. Mounted on a bracket ahead of the fuel tank, the canister stores fuel vapors until the PCM determines that engine conditions are right for them to be remove and burned.

    2002 Isuzu Truck Trooper LTD 4WD V6-3.5L
    Vehicle Level Powertrain Management Emission Control Systems Evaporative Emission Control Canister Testing and Inspection
    Testing and Inspection

    Evaporative Emission Control Canister
    Inspect the hoses for cracks and leaks.
    Inspect the canister for a damaged case.


    Fuel Tank. The tank has a built-in air space designed for the collection of gasoline fumes.

    Vacuum Source. The vacuum source is split between two ports, one on either side of the throttle body.

    Fuel Cap. The fuel cap is designed to be an integral part of the EVAP system.

    Here is link to show evaporative emission can under truck in front of (I think) the fuel tank.
    http://www.carspace.com/atfdmike/Albums/ISUZU%20TROOPER%20FORUM/2002evapcan1.gif- /photo/v./photo.jpg
  • 1louie1louie Member Posts: 2
    We purchased a 1999 Trooper recently and now we are having a similar TOD problem as you.
    On the dashboard the rear wheel display lights blink and after a few moments, the check light blinks. I have had the tranny and transfer case serviced with no obvious problems.
    I am new to this forum so any direction/help would be most appreciated.
    Thanks.
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    The 2nd to 1st clunk is a well documented feature. If my memory is correct, it is supposedly the torque converter releasing the transmission from a locked to a fluid coupling. Over a certain speed the torque coverter locks the transmission to increase power tansfer and it doesn't require there to be a fluid coupling as little risk of wheels spinning at different speeds than the drivetrain...at least I think that is what the description was. If you search for clunk...you should find a lot of posts regarding.
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    I am not sure what your problem is...There are lots of parts aside from the transmission and transfer case...I had a problem with the TOD system not engaging because the 4wd actuator went bad. It is a small vacuum actuated switch that locks and unlocks the front hubs.

    Until I fixed it, I couldn't even get 4wd to engage. It is located on the front axle under the small skid plate. I was able to engage 4wd by swapping the vacuum lines. Then I ordered the part from St. Charles Isuzu and fixed it fairly easily.

    Try web searches for Trooper TOD problems, etc. I ended up finding a web article on the actuator...it was well hidden, but it ended up giving me soup to nuts instructions on how to fix it.
  • ozzspd15ozzspd15 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 3.2 v6 4x4 isuzu trooper sport, and i wanted to know where i could get longer a-arms top and bottom. I heard the newer ones are longer, providing more travel and a wider stance. will suspension components off a newer year trooper fit mine with limited modifications????
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    I used to own a 1995 Trooper, that's when they came with a slightly wider stance. I don't know if the suspension would swap into an earlier model. Go find a 1995 or newer Trooper and crawl under to see for yourself. There are probably lots of good Trooper suspensions in the junkyards. The resale value of the Trooper is low and that leads to insurance companies calling them total losses easily. That's what happenned to my 1995, I was rear ended hard enough to launch the air bags, I could drive away just fine, but the $6000 or so to replace the air bags made my perfectly running and handling but somewhat dented up Trooper a total loss. Then I bought my 2001.
  • ozzspd15ozzspd15 Member Posts: 3
    have u ever taken your trooper off road? did u ever have any problems with the auto-locking hubs?
  • mpelmpel Member Posts: 23
    Just found out my 99 Trooper had no oil in it when I had it towed to a shop. Mech put 4.5 qrts in, said it holds 5. Oil light came on briefly then off yesterday.

    Has anyone put a replacement engine in? Mech said between 3K & 4K - Value of this vehicle in 'good', private party cond is about 5,200.

    Should I move on? Is it worth anything to anybody??

    Anyone? Help?!?!?
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Check out Help! Repairs cost more than the car is worth!! while waiting for responses.
  • pshewardpsheward Member Posts: 11
    UPDATE: NEW TRANNY. COVERED UNDER WARRANTY. THE DEALERSHIP EVEN PICKED UP THE TOWING. :shades: Seems the previous dealership flushed the trans with a little to much pressure and wiped me out. Now ready to go another 150 to 200K.
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    I have had mine offroad. While offroad I had issues with 4wd disengaging. I would have to put it in neutral, reverse, drive back and forth to get it to disengage.

    Onroad, I have had 4wd issues, one issue was that the 4wd actuator stopped working and I had to replace it. It essentially locks the front hubs from what I can tell and I could not get 4wd to activate once it failed.
  • sundanzkiddsundanzkidd Member Posts: 2
    Hello I have an 89 trooper v6 manual shift with some sort of fule problems. been quoted 90 to 275 dollars for diagnosis, been told many stories, but the one that keeps comming back is talk about the censors for the fule injection, that the troopers are famous for this problem. been told the brain was bad replaced it, still no worky, been told the throttle body was bad, but doubt thats the problem. im sure one or more of the censors are bad, can anyone show me pictures of the various censors that maybe starving my trooper and making it blow black smoke? or anyone with with help I would be much greatful.
  • ozzspd15ozzspd15 Member Posts: 3
    Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

    this is what my trooper looks like today but 2 marro im putting on 3 1/2 inch 6 lug to 6lug adapters. i made the skid plate out of a stop sign i had in my back yard, i cut it, bent it, sprayed it and installed it my self in about 2 hours =] haveing the right tools really helps, i should buy my own though lol =] what do u guys think?
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    Hi, your model trooper II has the capability to store trouble codes and have them read as below, but generally, black smoke indicates a too rich or too much fuel condition so that your vehicle is getting too much fuel, not starving as you indicate. Checking the spark plug condition is a reliable way to guage proper fuel mixture.
    I hope this info helps you.

    1989 Isuzu Truck Trooper II V6-2827cc 2.8L
    Vehicle Level Powertrain Management Computers and Control Systems Testing and Inspection Displaying & Reading Trouble Codes

    Displaying & Reading Trouble Codes

    If a problem develops in a monitored system with the engine running, the "Check Engine" light will come "ON" and a trouble code will be stored in ECM memory. As long as a problem is present, the light will remain "ON" while the engine is running. If the problem is intermittent, the light will go out but a trouble code will be stored in ECM memory. As a bulb check, the "Check Engine" light will come "ON" with the ignition switched "ON" and the engine not running. If no codes are present, the light will go out upon starting the engine. If the light remains "ON," the system has detected a fault.

    If the diagnostic terminal is grounded with the engine running, the system enters Field Service mode and the "Check Engine" light will indicate whether it is in "Open Loop" or "Closed Loop." In "Open Loop," the light flashes two and one half times per second. In "Closed Loop," the light flashes once per second. If the system is running lean while in "Closed Loop," the light will stay "OFF" most of the time. Conversely, it will stay "ON" most of the time if the system is running rich. While in Field Service mode, the ECM will not store new trouble codes.

    Refer to DIAGNOSTIC CIRCUIT CHECK for information on checking the function of the on-board diagnostic system. Note that many electronic engine control tests require the use of a "Scan" tool.

    "SCAN" DATA
    "Scan" Data





    NOTE: Ensure that any "Scan" tool used is compatible with the vehicle system. Use of an incompatible tool could result in misdiagnosis and unnecessary parts replacement.

    "Scan" data listed in the table may be used for comparison after completing the Diagnostic Circuit Check and finding the on-board diagnostics functioning properly with no trouble codes displayed. The "Typical Data Values" are an average recorded from normally operating vehicles and are intended to represent what the system would typically display. Only the parameters on this table are used for diagnosis. If a "Scan" tool reads other parameters, the values are not recommended by Isuzu for diagnostic use.

    ACCESSING TROUBLE CODES
    ALDL/DLC Connector

    The "Check Engine" light displays trouble codes that are stored in ECM memory. To activate the Diagnostic mode, a special connector located in the center console is utilized. When the ALDL (assembly line diagnostic link) connector is jumpered between terminals "A" and "B" with the ignition "ON" and the engine not running, the light will flash any stored codes.

    The first code to display should be code 12. This indicates that the self-diagnostics are functioning and is not a trouble code. The code 12 display is a flash followed by a short pause, then two flashes followed by a longer pause. If other codes are present, they will display in the same manner after code 12 has flashed three times. For example, the code 23 display is two flashes followed by a short pause, then three flashes followed by a longer pause. Each stored code is displayed three times, starting with the lowest in numerical order. Code 12 will repeat when all codes have shown. If no codes are stored, code 12 will display repeatedly until Diagnostic mode is exited by removal of the ALDL jumper wire. Remove the jumper wire before attempting to start the engine.

    To allow checking circuits which may be difficult to energize without driving the vehicle and being under particular operating conditions, all ECM controlled relays and solenoids (except fuel pump relay) are energized in Diagnostic mode.

    "Scan" tools also utilize the ALDL connector to access system diagnostic information. The use of a "Scan" tool is required to perform many of the tests under TROUBLE CODE COMPONENTS.

    INTERMITTENT "CHECK ENGINE" LIGHT

    "Intermittent" means that the "Check Engine" light may come on at times but does not stay on. Since codes may or may not be stored, the use of diagnostic charts could result in replacement of good parts.

    Most intermittent problems are caused by faulty electrical wiring or connections. Carefully check these potential causes:

    Poor mating of connector halves or terminals not fully seated in connector body.
    Deformed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuit should be carefully reformed to increase contact tension.
    Poor terminal-to-wire connection. This requires removing terminal from connector body to properly check.
    Poor ground connections.
    If a visual check does not find the source of the problem, the vehicle may be driven with a voltmeter connected to a suspect circuit. An abnormal voltage reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit. If wiring and connectors check okay and a code was stored for a circuit having a sensor (except codes 44 and 45), substitute a known good sensor and recheck.
    Loss of ECM trouble code memory. To check, disconnect throttle position sensor and idle engine until "Check Engine" light comes "ON." Code 22 should be stored in memory for at least 10 seconds after ignition is turned "OFF." If not, the ECM is faulty.
    An intermittent "Check Engine" light with no stored code may be caused by:

    Arcing at ignition coil, plug wires or spark plugs.
    EST wires should be routed away from spark plug wires, ignition system components and alternator.
    Poor power supply circuit connections.
    "Check Engine" light wire to ECM shorted to ground (circuit BLU/PNK 03).
    Diagnostic test lead to ECM shorted to ground (circuit 451).
    Poor ECM ground connections.
    Electrical system interference caused by a defective relay, ECM driven solenoid or switch. These problems cause an electrical surge and normally occur when the faulty component is operated.
    Improper installation of accessories such as lights, sound systems, alarms, etc.
    ECM "QUAD-DRIVER" CHECK

    A shorted solenoid, relay coil or harness will not damage the ECM, but will cause the circuit and controlled component to be inoperative. When the circuit fault is not present or has been repaired, the "quad-driver" will again operate in a normal manner due to its fault protected design. If a fault has been repaired in a "quad-driver" controlled circuit, the original ECM should be reinstalled and the circuit checked for proper operation. ECM replacement will not be necessary if the repaired circuit or component now operates correctly.
  • sundanzkiddsundanzkidd Member Posts: 2
    thank you for the info (atfdmike) I finally figured out what the problem was and it was so so so dang simple the coolant temp censor was bad disconnected it and what a difference it made, cant understand how a mechanic wanted to chrage me $275 to diagnose a 30 buck bad part, wooo nelley.... great site thanx for the help. :)
  • spotbearsdspotbearsd Member Posts: 33
    Does anyone know the correct part number for ordering sway bar bushings from JC Whitney? Ive done a search on here to no avail (just one to a dead link).
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    http://www.performancesuspension.com/polymainpage.htm
    ..
    http://www.thomasnet.com/products/polyurethane-bushings-9252008-1.html
    ..
    Give one of these sites or liked to sites a call, ask the people who live bushings everyday. There are several options to consider: Just poly, graphite impregnated poly, hardness, grease fittings in case they start to squeak etc...
  • x90071x90071 Member Posts: 8
    Isuzu Trooper 1995 with 75,000
  • spotbearsdspotbearsd Member Posts: 33
    Thanks, but I am looking for someone who has already done the bushing install. Does anyone know what size the sway bars are on a 1995 Trooper?
  • spotbearsdspotbearsd Member Posts: 33
    Installed Bilstein HD's a few days ago and already looking for something else. My 1995 Trooper handles & corners soooo much better now, but the under 35mph around town/surface street ride is just to jarring for me. I tend to crash some over rough pavement, which in turn results in some shake transmitting into the body of the truck. I also installed 4 new Revo tires.

    Wish I researched more on this forum before I installed the Bilsteins. Looks like I'm gonna get the KYB Monomax instead. I do some light off roading, but thats about it.
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    Hi, Bilsteins are great and last forever, but they should as they are an expensive upgrade. They are definitely harsh on anything but smooth pavement. I have them on my pickup, as the ride is not that great anyway. The KYB light truck gas shock should be a big improvement over stock, and if you go with new or poly bushings in the sway bars, front and rear, you should regain some of the "feel" in cornering and handling that you will lose in swapping out the bilsteins. One guys opinion.
  • jcar1jcar1 Member Posts: 1
    I am a new owner of a 95 Isuzu Trooper optional 4 wheel drive w/ auto locking hubs. I noticed a few days ago a funny noise when I slowed to a stop at a RxR crossing. It sounded like a standard transmission winding down and switching gears. I have an automatic. It then started doing it when I would pick up speed and let off the gas. It's a whining sound like something in the front end is rubbing. Here's the kicker, when it starts making that noise if you shift into neutral, it quits. We originally thought it was the CV joints, but it can't be because it stops in neutral. Does anyone have any suggestions. I have gotten quotes from $150 to $850 to replace the CV joints. I would sure hate to waste that much money. :confuse:
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    Hi, I'm not a pro, but just letting off the gas can unload the torque and make things quieter than under normal driving load. The sound you describe sounds a bit more like gear noise than CV joint noise. CV joints may growl and grumble when going straight ahead when going bad, but they can really make noise and vibrate when making sharp, slow turns. If yours is not exhibiting these characteristics, then you may be able to rule CV joints out.
    THe auto lock hubs only unlock when the trupr is put in to 2 WD AND then it must be backed up at least 8 or 10 feet in order for the hubs to unlock. Some people have to back up even further, depending on the condition of the hubs. You could be hearing the front differential "complaining" about not being able to idle due to the hubs being engaged. If you already know this, and are sure they are unlocked, then it is not uncommon for there to be a bit of gear whine at higher speeds, but I have not heard anyone mention lately that they had anything but transmission problems when talking about "winding down and switching gears". If you can have the ECM checked for any hidden codes, you may find some stored but not illuminating the check engine or malfunction indicator lights. Try a search in this forum for similar problems, you could get some more insight. There are also posts that suggest how to check the computer yourself if you don't live near an Autozone or parts place that will do it for free. Good luck. One owners opinion.
  • geelonggeelong Member Posts: 3
    Hi all. Recently my '98 3.5 V6 manual trooper (Jackaroo) with about 100,000 miles on clock had a major "seizure" - headgasket blew, water pump failed, and ended up requiring a new cam, new head (tiny crack). The engine had to be removed completely. Since getting the vehicle back from repair, after about 15 minutes driving the clutch gets stiff (seems okay when cold and when I accelerate (all gears)there is a delay in uptake (revs almost like a false neutral initially then power seems to come on). Mechanics claim they didn't touch the clutch so perhaps something else they did is causing this? At idle it chatters almost like a diesel (engine used to be quiet as a mouse). Finally there is a definite oily smell when the engine is hot - never previously apparent. It's going back but I'd appreciate any clues people muight have. Many thanks
  • spotbearsdspotbearsd Member Posts: 33
    Installed the KYB Monomax shocks and sway bar bushings a few days ago... man, what a difference in ride from the way to stiff Bilstein. I think Bilsteins may be overated. They work great on a full size SUV, pickup.. but suck for a Trooper application!

    FYI- I found sway bar bushing from jegs.com that had zerk fittings on them and are made by Energy Suspension. Much easier to keep lubed than the JC Whitney ones.
  • juellejuelle Member Posts: 1
    hello, i just found this site today so i thought i'd check it out. i've been having problems recently with my trooper, one morning i left to go to work and my truck started fine, but wanted to stall. as i started driving on the highway it started surging and/or missing. i had it checked out and was told that the compression in two of the four cylinders is really low. the fuel pump was replaced less than 6 months ago, i was also told that it is running really lean...not sure what that means. i did notice for about a week that the truck smelt very fumey when i got out after driving it. any suggestions as to what this might be?
    thanks
  • x90071x90071 Member Posts: 8
    I just inherited this truck and love it but nothing except for oil change was done on this since 50000 miles. can someone give me a list (as comprehensive as you want) of what should be done on the truck with this mileage, anyhting and everything would be appreciated.

    Thanx
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Check out the Edmunds Maintenance Guide.
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    This table for the 96 Trooper should help a little. It did not copy well, but the idea is the mileage is next to Maintenance Items, and the item name has 5 spaces after it for the type of service or action required, so you can kind of figure out which are which. The timing belt should have been changed at 60,000 miles.
    Hope this info helps.
    Maintenance Items 82,500 90,000 97,500 105,000 112,500
    Air Filter Element Replace
    Battery Check Check Check Check Check
    Body and Frame Lubricate Lubricate Lubricate Lubricate Lubricate
    Brake Fluid Check Check Check Check Check
    Brake Hose/Line Inspect Inspect Inspect Inspect Inspect
    Brake Pedal Assy Adjust Adjust
    Clutch Fluid
    Clutch Hydraulic System Check
    Clutch Linkage Lubricate Lubricate
    Clutch Pedal Assembly Check Check
    Coolant Check Replace Check Check Check
    Cooling System Inspect Inspect
    Cruise Control Vacuum Hose Check Check
    Disc Brake System Check Check
    Drive Belt Inspect/Adjust
    Drive/Propeller Shaft Lubricate Lubricate Lubricate
    Engine Oil Replace Replace Replace Replace Replace
    Exhaust System Check Check Check Check Check
    Fluid - A/T Check Check Check Check Check
    Fluid - Differential Replace
    Fluid - M/T Replace
    Fluid - Transfer Case Replace
    Fluids Check Check Check Check Check
    Fuel Supply Line
    Locks Lubricate Lubricate
    Neutral Safety Switch Check Check Check Check Check
    Oil Filter, Engine Replace Replace Replace Replace Replace
    Parking Brake System Check Check
    Power Steering Fluid Check Replace Check Check Check
    Radiator Clean
    Spark Plug
    Steering Check Check Check Check Check
    Steering and Suspension Inspect Inspect Inspect Inspect Inspect
    Throttle Cable/Linkage Lubricate Lubricate Lubricate Lubricate Lubricate
    Timing Belt
    Tires Rotate Rotate Rotate Rotate Rotate
    Transfer Case Check
    Wheel Bearing Clean/Repack
  • cki_primercki_primer Member Posts: 1
    I drive a 1999 Isuzu Trooper and I have been told by EVERY mechanic that i encounter that knows a thing or two about Isuzu engines knows 3 things. 1. color coded parts makes rebuilds hard, 2. Isuzu engines will last a long time if your timing belt is changed religiously every 75,000 miles and 3. Isuzu engines burn oil like mad.
    just check it every 500 and ull be fine
    but always have at least a quart on u if u drive alot
    and u do!
  • bhaverbhaver Member Posts: 2
    Hello, I am moving my beloved 98 Trooper S (automatic tranny, 4X4, 55,000 miles) from Hawaii to Northern New Mexico in a month. It has spent it's entire life in Hawaii. What should I do to prepare it for the cold.

    thanks
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    cki primer, Maybe it is time for you to find a less opinionated mechanic that will help you feel better about your Trooper. What other vehicle is your mechanic trying to sell you on?
    ..
    Timing belt changes are at different mileages based on Trooper models. Mine is a 2001 and timing belt change is at 100K (coming up real soon for me), and my engine is a non-interference design, so if the timing belt fails, the engine will not be damaged.
    ..
    My 2001 uses a little oil, but small enough amount that if I change my oil every 3000 miles I don't have to worry about adding any. If you hear a slight lifter ticking at startup, that is a clue to check the oil level. My 1995 Trooper never consumed oil at all in the 140K miles I owned it, at least not enough to tell by the dipstick measurement.
    ..
    Isuzu engines do last a very long time, just like any well made equipment you must keep up the maintenance to get it to last. I have driven over 400K miles in three Isuzu Troopers and I am very pleased with their reliability.
    ..
    All that said, do I recommend everyone drive an Isuzu? No, I don't because there are few dealers around and fewer mechanics that like to specialize in Isuzu. I will stay with my Trooper as long as I can keep it running like new. I am also hoping that Isuzu begins selling diesel cars and SUVs and pickup trucks in the USA because I think there is a big untapped market in the USA for fuel efficient diesels and Isusu is one of the best diesel engine makers when it comes to fuel efficiency.
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