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Isuzu Trooper

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Comments

  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    Just make sure you have proper antifreeze in the radiator and in the wincshield washers for both front and back windows. If you are using a heavy viscosity engine oil you might want to change to 5W30 or whatever your user manual tells you for cooler weather.
    ..
    Hawaii and New Mexico are both rust free places so your Trooper will look new for a very long time.
  • bhaverbhaver Member Posts: 2
    thanks boxtrooper
  • shawgbshawgb Member Posts: 1
    I've searched the forum to see if anyone else has reported this issue and I can't find it.

    I have a '98 Trooper with about 81K miles. Love, love the vehicle - have owned it for about 2 years.

    The great majority of driving I do is in the city, so I rarely use the cruise control. However, when I DO use it - at speeds of 60 and above, it frequently will kick the transmission out of 4th gear (I think that's the final gear...) at the SLIGHTEST incline. I'm talking about an incline that if I was NOT using the cruise, no WAY would the transmission need to downshift in order to negotiate.

    I've tested it. I can maintain constant highway speeds with no problem whatsoever and NO TRANSMISSION DOWNSHIFTING without cruise control.

    If I let the cruise handle that same stretch of road - it will most likely, at some point, kick the tranny out of final gear at a slight incline...and it doesn't exactly go RIGHT back to final gear after it does so, either. It takes a few moments of completely flat road.

    It's unpredictable, yet consistent - as it happens every time I use the cruise for ANY substantial time period...like maybe more than 20 minutes.

    So, it's weird - separately, the transmission shifts beautifully...no issues - and in theory, the cruise works well as it holds the speed quite accurately. Somehow - the 2 of them don't get along!

    Would really appreciate some feedback. By the way, I have done all required maintenance on the vehicle...I want it to last!

    Thank you.
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    Hi, I have not run across any post describing the conditions you do for your trooper, but I thought you might be interested in what the manual says about the cruise control. I don't see any thing in the description that might lead to the behavior you describe, unless it is the powertrain control module or the cruise module that has a glitch that might cause this. I really do not see where the action you describe would create any real problem for most driving conditions, and since the trans locks back up when the temporary acceleration is done, then mileage would not seem to be an issue. Here is what the manual says:

    1998 Isuzu Truck Trooper LTD V6-3.5L
    Vehicle Level Cruise Control Description and Operation


    Description and Operation


    The cruise control system uses mechanical, electrical and vacuum-operated devices to maintain vehicle speed at a setting selected by the driver.

    System Description
    The cruise control unit receives command signals from the cruise control switch. It receives information about operating conditions from the brake switch, the speedometer, the clutch switch (manual transmission) and the automatic transmission mode switch and Powertrain control module (PCM) (automatic transmission).

    The cruise control unit sends operational signals to the devices that regulate the throttle position. The throttle position maintains the selected vehicle speed. The control unit compares the actual speed of the vehicle to the selected speed. The control unit then uses the result of that comparison to open or close the throttle.

    The brake light switch releases the system's control of the throttle at the instant the driver depresses the brake pedal. The switch sends a signal to the cruise control unit when the brake pedal is depressed; the cruise control unit responds by allowing the throttle to close. The clutch interrupt switch or the automatic transmission mode switch sends a disengage signal input to the cruise control unit that also allows the throttle to close.

    System Operation
    The cruise control system will set and automatically maintain any speed above 25 m.p.h. (40 Kph) . To set, press the cruise control main switch so that the "CRUISE MAIN" indicator is ON . After reaching the desired speed, press the set switch. The cruise control unit will receive a set signal input and will activate the cruise control actuator.

    Pushing the cruise control switch cancels the cruise control system. This removes power to the cruise control unit and erases the set speed from memory. The cruise control system also disengages when cruising speed is lower than the preset speed by 12 m.p.h. (19 Kph) or more. If the system is disengaged temporarily by the brake switch, clutch switch or the automatic transmission mode switch and vehicle speed is still above 25 m.p.h. (40 Kph) , turn and release the Resume/accel switch turned and released, the set memory is retained, the vehicle automatically returns to the previous set speed.

    For gradual acceleration without depressing the accelerator pedal, turn the resume/accel switch and hold it there until the desired speed is reached. This will send an acceleration signal input to the cruise control unit. When the switch is released, the system will be reprogrammed for the new speed. Quickly turning and releasing the resume/accel switch allows you to tap up the preset cruising speed. Each turn increases the preset speed by 1 m.p.h. (1.6 Kph) . The Preset speed can be increased by up to 10 m.p.h. (16 Kph) in this manner.

    To slow the vehicle down, depress and hold the set/coast switch. This will send a deceleration signal input to the cruise control unit, causing the vehicle to coast until the desired speed is reached. When the desired speed is reached, release the set/coast switch. This will reprogram the system for the new speed. Quickly depressing and releasing the set/coast switch allows you to tap down the preset cruising speed. Each depress decreases the preset speed by 1 m.p.h. (1.6 Kph) . The preset speed can be decreased to a minimum of 25 m.p.h. (40 Kph) in this manner.
  • uniconunicon Member Posts: 18
    I'd have to second this. I've owned my Trooper since I purchased it new in 1999 and it uses a quart of oil every 800 miles. I've always used Mobil 1 synthetic. I'm selling it soon because I'm tired of adding oil to it and the mileage sux. It's at 85,000 miles and needs a timing belt.
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Hi, everyone. As you've probably noticed, we have been trying to refine the discussions into more narrowly focussed topics. Our objective is twofold. We want to make it easier for people seeking specific information about their vehicles to find it easily and without having to wade through hundreds or thousands of postings.

    To those ends, we will be shutting down the general make/model discussions and work exclusively with specific issues. This requires us to populate the make/model subsections with relevant, interesting and timely topics. Rather than having the hosts simply create boilerplate topics for each make/model, we feel that you, the owner, the make/model enthusiast and the prospective buyer can best judge what those topics should be.

    You can help by adding a discussion (it's easy!) or suggesting one here.

    To add a discussion, click on the last link in the "You are here" line at the top of this page. That will take you to the topic page for this make/model. Review the list of topics and click on the "Add discussion" link when you've decided what topic you'd like to add. Follow the directions and you're done! Feel free to add more than one. Just avoid duplicating existing topics and try not to make it TOO specific!

    Your help and continued participation in the Forums is greatly appreciated! Thanks.
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Please go to the group top level and create a discussion that fits your comments/questions or post in an existing discussion.

    Isuzu Trooper
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Enjoy!

    tidester, host
  • stillwatersstillwaters Member Posts: 33
    In 1990 I purchased a brand new Trooper with the V6 and automatic. I took it out 4-wheeling all the time (logging tralis, mud holes). I LOVED that truck for it was truly a "Mountain Goat!" There was just no getting it stuck (I tried). Unfortunately I owned it for just a few years before trading it for a 2wd minivan (moment of extreme stupidity)..:(

    The joke is a few days after trading the Trooper, we received the largest snow storm in the history of the state When I was finally able to navigate out of my sub division (a week later), there, across the street from the entrance of my subdivision, on the front line of the dealer's lot, sat my recently traded Trooper.

    I think it was laughing at me.

    It took until 2006 for me to finally purchase another 4X4. I bought a new Land Rover LR3 mostly because it reminded me of my old Trooper I never should have traded. The basic configuration, driving position, and off road behavior of these two serious off roaders are so very close.

    I still miss the Trooper (although the "butt warmers" in the LR3 sure are nice on a cold winter morning...

    Keith
  • trooper98trooper98 Member Posts: 2
    My wife's 98 Limited has @ 170K miles on it and is just now starting to nickle and dime (CV and engine computer). I would caution against getting an SUV for a minor, but my wife's friend has smashed her Trooper a couple of times in traffic pulling a horse trailer and came out OK. You might consider an advanced driving school to familiarize him on risk management and skills to bring an SUV down to speed with. Some of the most preventable SUV accidents involve speed and unbuckled rear passengers becoming projectiles.

    He won't get great mileage (18 mpg average), and the 6 CD player will eventually eat 6 CDs. The heated seats are very nice.
  • trooper98trooper98 Member Posts: 2
    My wife has a 98 Trooper. The vehicle's engine surges or dies at stoplights. Isuzu says that the computer has to be replaced ($2K) and that we won't know if the new computer will work until it is installed($2K gamble). This seems to be extremely outrageous method of determining if something will work. The vehicle has 170K miles on it, but is otherwise in decent shape.

    Any ideas or experiences on this type of problem?
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    hi, I Don't know about whether or not the ECU is really the problem. There are specific codes that inform whether it is bad or not, but unless you know what codes, if any, were found then there is no way to get their description.
    As far as the ECU, rebuilt ECU's are available, and some rebuilders can be found on ebay. They will also rebuild your original ECU if that is what you would prefer. I sent what I thought was a bad ECU to one of them, not for an Isuzu, and they called me and told me that the ECU was not bad and would only rebuild it if I directed them to do so. I thought that was pretty professional of them. I think the price was around $200 dollars. You might want to check around on that. Good luck
  • chanceintxchanceintx Member Posts: 3
    I'm doing a front brake job on my '99 Trooper and I need to get the rotors turned, so I need to remove the hub and rotor. The problem is, that I can't find a repair manual for it, so I don't have any of the torque specs for re-assembly. If you know the specs or a source for a repair manual I would really appreciate it. I haven't finished the disassembly yet, but I think these are the only specs I'll need.

    I'm looking for the torque specs for the following:
    - hex bolts that connect the axle and hub
    - spindle nut
    - three screws that hold the spindle nut retainer
    - bolts for the brake caliper mounting bracket
    - bolts for the brake caliper

    Thanks in advance.
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    Hope this helps

    1999 Isuzu Truck Trooper V6-3.5L
    Vehicle Level Brakes and Traction Control Disc Brake System Brake Caliper Specifications


    Specifications

    Adjusting Method Self-Adjusting
    Piston Diameter: Front 2.38 in
    Rear 1.63 in
    Support Bracket Bolts: Front 115 ft.lb
    Rear 76 ft.lb
    Caliper Attaching Bolts: Front 54 ft.lb
    Rear 32 ft.lb
    Bleed Screw 69 in.lb
    Hose to Caliper Bolt 26 ft.lb

    1999 Isuzu Truck Trooper V6-3.5L
    Vehicle Level Brakes and Traction Control Disc Brake System Brake Rotor/Disc Specifications


    Specifications

    Brake Disc/Rotor Front Standard Thickness 26.0 mm
    Minimum Thickness (Wear) 24.60 mm
    Minimum Thickness (Refinish) 24.97 mm
    Effective Disc Diameter 222.0 mm
    Maximum Runout 0.13 mm
    Rear Standard Thickness 18.0 mm
    Minimum Thickness (Wear) 16.6 mm
    Minimum Thickness (Refinish) 16.97 mm
    Maximum Runout 0.13 mm
    Effective Disc Diameter 269.2 mm

    Install hub nut. Turn to the place where there is a chamfer in the tapped hole to the outer side, then attach the nut by using front hub nut wrench J-36827.

    PRELOAD ADJUSTMENT
    Tighten the hub nut to 29 Nm (22 ft. lbs.) , then fully loosen the nut.
    Tighten the hub nut to the value given below, using a spring scale on the wheel pin. New bearing and New oil seal Bearing Preload: 20 N - 25 N (4.4 lbs. - 5.5 lbs.) Used bearing and New oil seal Bearing Preload: 12 N - 18 N (2.6 lbs. - 4.0 lbs.)
    If the measured bearing preload is outside the specifications, adjust it by loosening or tightening the bearing nut.

    Link to hub part specifications:
    http://www.carspace.com/atfdmike/Albums/trooper/99hubtorque1.gif/page/photo.html- #pic
  • chanceintxchanceintx Member Posts: 3
    Thanks atfdmike! That was just what we needed!!!!
  • jspence2jspence2 Member Posts: 2
    spdracr4, I have exactly the same vehicle and EXACTLY the same symptoms you've described. Please tell me you've found an answer to these problems. I've been struggling to find the solution for weeks and it's driving me nuts! Were you able to resolve the issue???
  • jspence2jspence2 Member Posts: 2
    hey cobbo, did you ever get the reduced power light issue fixed? I'm having the exact same issue with my 2001 trooper limited black with gold package and TOD.
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    Did you look at reply to his post? I think it is 11321.
  • renet10renet10 Member Posts: 13
    the radio in my 94 trooper was replaced with a 91 radio w/o cd input. I wanted to get the cd player going again a grabbed a 95 radio off ebay. Will it work in my 94 with a separate factory single cd or did I waste my money? :confuse:
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    Hi, well, you reversed the usual progression by purchasing before checking whether it will work, but the factory used the same radio both years for the premium sound system. If the radio you purchased was for the premium system, which is what you had originally, then it should work. The radio you bought should say premium sound system, or similar, on the face somewhere. The harness should work as long as it was not modified to put in the 91 radio. As far as I could tell looking at the electrical diagrams, no wiring changes should have been necessary, but you won't know until you open it up and look. Hope this helps.
  • renet10renet10 Member Posts: 13
    Thanks, I appreciate the info. It should work based on your info. I had to act quickly because it was on ebay. You're a great advice giver! Happy Holidays!!!! ;)
  • khfckhfc Member Posts: 1
    Hi everyone, i have a 1997 trooper, may i know how to chang the Transmission AT Filter, is it easy for DIY?
    Thanks a lot!!!
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Member Posts: 377
    Nothing to change really. You're xmission has a screen in it, not a filter per sey. You may want to get a xmission fluid exchange done. Its a booger doing a drain and refill. There is NO dipsitck, not fill port on the top side...the fill port is on the side of the transmission, hard to access.
  • df2000df2000 Member Posts: 60
    You are wrong. '97 Trooper has 4l30E GM built trans with changeable felt AT filter. Buy kit in Advance Auto for $20, it come with new Fel-Pro pan gasket. You may need to remove crossmember to get access to some pan bolts. Also get yourself hand pump for $6 to fill it after. The job is very DIY. Actually, the worst part was to remove peaces of old gasket from valve body.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I've done this on my Trooper as I've done a lot of stuff. and I'd NEVER do it again. It's a royal PITA.

    -mike
  • mpelmpel Member Posts: 23
    Somewhere along the line, the cover to the fuse "Box/Tray" thingy was lost. It rests midway back on the left side under the hood. Of course I can't find one and the dealer wants $40 bucks for one.

    Anyone know a sourse for obscure parts?

    Thanks
  • spotbearsdspotbearsd Member Posts: 33
    Just wanted to do an update 5K miles later... The KYB Monomax are a joke. After just a couple of months and two offroad trips, my truck wallowed and swayed like it was drunk on the highway. I thought maybe the front shocks were leaking after I had bottomed out twice off road. They are terrible off road and should never be labled as an off highway shock.

    I just installed Old Man Emu's all around and its like a different vehicle. No more side to side motion and much better cornering. I have not taken them off road yet, but Im sure they will be better since OME is a designated off road shock company.

    Save your money/time, do it right and get the OME.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    That's what I put on my trooper after 25k miles, it's now at 100k and many offroad trips later and they are still good. OME rear springs too.

    -mike
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    OK, I don't have a clue....is OME the brand like KYB or an acronym for something? I don't recognise it but am interested because of your results. Thanks.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Old Man Emu

    They are a brand from Australia. Great stuff for the Holden Jackaroo aka Isuzu Trooper.

    -mike
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    The OME suspension upgrade is the best was to keep your Trooper fun to drive. The OME suspension improvement is worth far more than they cost. I have used the soft version on my 1995 Trooper and the Medium stiffness version on my 2001 Trooper. Both are excellent on road, the shocks seem to be progressive just like the OME rear springs. Off road has been limited for me, but the OME shocks do very well over washboard road conditions and make judderbars (Australian for speed bumps) a lot more comfortable to cross.
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    I have the shocks too and they are fantastic. They take a pounding off-road and never fade. Stock shocks over the sand-dunes of Nantucket would be toast after 15 minutes, these kept going and going.

    Been real busy at work the last year so I haven't posted much lately...but if you are considering shocks, I don't think you can do better for the Trooper.
  • gator4evergator4ever Member Posts: 4
    My 2001 Trooper has always used alot of oil. About 1 qt per 1000miles...I dont think that it is leaking, because it is kept in a garage and I see no stains on the floor.
    I have used Mobil 1 10w30 for the past 135,000 miles, it now has 215,000 miles.
    ???s should I swicth to a heavier oil? 20w50 or 10w40?
    One more, I also used K&N Oil filters.
    Thanks to all.....
  • bitsy3bitsy3 Member Posts: 4
    #480 of 497 2001 Isuzu Trooper by bitsy3 Jan 16, 2007 (11:35 am)
    Reply | E-mail Msg
    Replaced TPS, EGR, Throttle Body, Motor on Throttle body total after second trip to dealer. $1600.00 and still have problems. Engine ran fine for 65 miles and I stopped and got back in it. Problem with smoothering not idling, then running 0-1500rpms, dying and acting up. Drove another 200 miles and would die when stopping. The next morning it cranks and seems to run okay. It seems to temperature and distance/time related. Does anyone have any ideas? All help appreciated. Started to Fluctuate RPM and Smothering and dying again
  • serranotserranot Member Posts: 113
    It's your intake manifold gasket. Whoever you're bringing it to should try this first. It's common and a cheap fix.

    Regards,
    Tom
  • bitsy3bitsy3 Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for the information.
  • travisc1travisc1 Member Posts: 1
    I bought my 99 Trooper about two weeks ago. The third day I had it the check engine light came on, but went off later that day. It has been coming on and off ever since. The car is inspected till Aug 07, has a clean title, 82,400 miles and looks to be in great condition (no rust, interior in great shape, etc.). The problem is that I get about 4-5 miles per gallon in the city, which I know is not typical. Any ideas? I am not what you would call a car person, so I want to be armed with a little knowledge before to mechanic tries to rape me. Thanks to all responders.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    If the CEL is coming on, then you are probably running in a open-loop IIRC mode which dumps fuel at the highest rate.

    -mike
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    Is your Trooper in 4wd all the time?

    For a new owner of a Trooper: check that all the tires are the same size and close in the amount of wear so that the limited slip does not get hot.
  • renet10renet10 Member Posts: 13
    Had problem w/94 trooper -changed wires&plugs(were original)-same problem then changed ignition module with one laying around mechanics garage (trying to eliminate problem before buying new). Symptoms went away so purchased new module to replace when used one acts up. I know that not changing the plugs& wires would foul module but would old O2 sensor foul it too? I bet its original. Mechanic says no since CEL would come on constant not just just sometimes. Right now car runs rough then CEL come on and it takes off like a rocket. I don't want to replace the module to just have it fouled out again by a bad O2. :confuse:
  • kobokokoboko Member Posts: 34
    I too have had the 2nd to 1st clunk for sometime now on my 2001 Trooper, somehow I dont remember it being there when the car was new... but one thing I did notice is that it gets much better after lubing the propeller shaft. I have a feeling the clunk sound is coming form the universal joint or somewhere in the shaft-- but probably triggered by something else (such as the torque converter releasing). It definitely sounds quieter & more muffled after the lube, also if I brake suddenly & it downshifts fast, then i dont hear the clunk at all-- only hear it at slow downshifts. just my 2 cents. thanks!
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Member Posts: 377
    Yep, its a trait of the 99' I think. I've had the same 'issue' with my 99' for as long as I can remember. There is 'slack' somewhere in the system. I've had the propeller shaft replaced by the dealer and that didn't fix the problem, or deminish it at all. It also seems to be ambient temperature sensitive. Oh well, I've become accustomed to it, and will live with it another 100K miles.

    I have NOT experienced it with my 01' Trooper though. She now has 65K miles on her and she runs just like she did when new. Really tight body, suspension, and plenty of Gooo.
    :)
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Member Posts: 377
    I thought I'd pass this along: I had my drivers window hang up on me the other day. Wouldn't go up or down without a helping hand. I had noticed that when it was going down just previous to this failure, that it was getting really SLOW, and was pulling the rubber gasket downward out of the front part of the door frame.

    Turns out the plastic clips that retain the glass to the regulator mechanism, one of them had broken. I was told it would take a complete window replacement by the dealer. NO WAY !! I went to my local auto glass shop, he happened to have some 'universal' clips and the special adhesive, so he fixed me up for about $19. The important thing was to spray the window guides down thoroughly with Silicone Spray. That window never worked so good !! :) It hardly slows down now as it disappears into the door.

    And, these windows do NOT have the wire cable drive system. They have a sissor frame driven by a large rotating gear mechanism.
  • laparka55laparka55 Member Posts: 8
    I/ve got a 2001 trooper that does the exact same thing -- 2nd to 1st downshift clunks. After I come to a complete stop -- if I let off the brake I feel the clunk from the downshift. Considering my wife has only had the car 2 mo. I was stressed I had a serious tranny issue.

    This is normal??
  • kobokokoboko Member Posts: 34
    My 2001 Trooper does the same, ie after coming to a complete stop & letting off on the brake I feel a clunk. However, it only does that like 50% of the time, but has been there ever since i bought the truck new. i would relax & not worry, these are great trucks overall, so enjoy your new buy!
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    My dad is telling me that after having his fluid topped off in the trans, the clunk was significantly reduced. It could be related to that.

    -mike
  • davem5davem5 Member Posts: 8
    Paisan?? Is that YOU???

    Anyway, my 2001 2WD blew it's tranny around 60k, but Isuzu put a new one in under the warranty. I'm nearing 120k with a little trepidation, since the next $4k tranny WON'T be covered by them.....

    That said, I love my Trooper - classy styling, overall very reliable, and a lot of room.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    That's me!

    -mike
  • moddedbya1automoddedbya1auto Member Posts: 2
    I have a 92 trooper and i have all kinds of problems. Whenever I would be driving normal and then hit heavy traffic conditions and my engine would turn off. I would try restarting it, It would turn over, rev up, and turn back off again. after a dozen tries i can get it going again. any ideas? also, the other day it just wouldn't start at all. its still cranking, but it wont turn over. also my a/c and heater dont work but I think I have figured those ones out. can anyone help me?
  • 95redtrooper95redtrooper Member Posts: 3
    i recently had the same problem. i own a 95' trooper and when i would ever go over about 3000 rpms it would almost shut of while coming to a stop. when i came to the bottom of hills i wouldnt even notice until i started to drive again but the car would also be off. i had the same problems when trying to start it and my engine light also came on if i stayed at a high speed for just a mile. i brought it to my mechanic and he found it to be the speed sensor. runs awesome now. it cost me about 150 for the sensor plus labor. hope that helps.
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