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Isuzu Trooper

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  • moddedbya1automoddedbya1auto Member Posts: 2
    I will try that! thanks I owe you one!
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    I only have 45k on my 1999 trooper...hard miles though. The 4wd system has been unable to drive on dry pavement for a year or so now (due to well complained about TOD clutch issues on this forum) and it gets about 9 mpg due to the front drivetrain spinning all the time.

    I can't decide if I want to live with it, fix it or get new? I went to a toyota dealer and sat in a new FJ. They are nice, but after reading about it...I pretty much have an awesome 4 wheeler now.

    The problem is that in its given state, it is just a station car. I don't trust if for long highway rides, half expecting that the front drivetrain will drop out with prolonged use. Also with 9 mpg I have to fill it up all the time.

    It is definitely cheaper to keep it or fix it, but something new sounds nice too. I am guessing at least $1500 to fix at an independent shop and $4000-4500 in trade?

    If it is fixed...how sure can I be that they did a good job? I am itching to go wheelin' again and want to trust my rig.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I hear yah, I may buy my Trooper back from my dad to go wheeling soon. Why not keep it for wheeling and get something to drive to the station?

    Not much out there for offroading these days, nothing really grabs me other than an old cherokee perhaps.

    -mike
  • 95redtrooper95redtrooper Member Posts: 3
    i recently broke my passenger side mirror. it is heated and power folding. ive heard that they dont make them after market and am having trouble finding them elsewhere. Does anybody have a good place to look...or maybe one off a parts trooper? thanks :(
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  • bsmart1bsmart1 Member Posts: 377
    Has anyone tried the White Lightening 'chip' on their Trooper yet? It claims great mpg improvement, and lots more power.
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Member Posts: 377
    This may be a completely different problem. I had a similar problem with my 01' Trooper. I would get a 'clunk' when releasing the brake and taking off from a dead stop. Turned out to be a transmission mounting bolt was loose, and the transmission would bump the undercarriage when it torqued up for take-off. The dealer tightened the mounting bolts and the problem was resolved!!
  • tkevinblanctkevinblanc Member Posts: 356
    Good morning.

    The other morning I ran my Trooper, which sits a lot of the time now. The heater blower motor wouldn't come turn on. The fuses under the hood all appear fine. Could there be an in-line fuse? Or, is there another fuse box inside the truck?

    If not, does anyone know how I would get started replacing the blower motor?

    Thanks in advance.
  • tkevinblanctkevinblanc Member Posts: 356
    It seems like a fitting on the passenger side has rusted away, and my rear bumper trim where it wraps around the side of the truck is hanging loose. I think I can blame by 12 year old for standing on it, but only so much: a lot of rusted metal fell out when I fussed with it.

    Has anyone ever replaced this fitting?
  • tkevinblanctkevinblanc Member Posts: 356
    Finally, after all these years, I have the surging idle problem that most folks chalk up to a bad intake manifold gasket. Anyone care to take a guess at the repair cost? Could a non-dealer shop that I trust perform the repair, or does it take a dealer?

    My last three posts are good arguments for not letting a truck sit for too long. All those things that can go wrong, do go wrong!
  • tkevinblanctkevinblanc Member Posts: 356
    I've been living with a sporadic ABS light for a while now. I'm guessing its a sensor. Has anyone dealt with one of these before?

    Okay, four posts in a day is my limit. Thanks for listening.
  • tkevinblanctkevinblanc Member Posts: 356
    bsmart1, I can't find any reference on the web to such a chip. Where did you find it?
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    Hi, given the number of glitches, and the erratic electrical system of the trooper, I would suggest a voltage check of the alternator before replacing anything other than a fuse. If you are getting a constant 13.6 Volt reading (or 14 V) then your alternator is probably OK. While the voltmeter is hooked up, check the load capacity of the system by watching the voltmeter as you turn on any of the electrical systems (lights,etc;) to see if the alt can maintain output.
    You can also check the fuses with a continuity or ohm meter while you are at it to see if they are OK. Then check voltage at the blower motor or relay at least, to see if it is getting current but still not working. Good luck, one owners opinion.
  • tkevinblanctkevinblanc Member Posts: 356
    I would do this at the battery terminals with the engine running a little better than idle?

    It's a good idea, I'll give it a try. I did have to replace the battery in January, but I figured that was mostly because I left a light on inside the vehicle and ran it to nothing. It wouldn't take a charge from an external charger. It had very little voltage.
  • tkevinblanctkevinblanc Member Posts: 356
    OK, so I found the blower fuse in the inside fuse box (when all else fails, look at the owner's manual - Doh!). The fuse is fine.

    So, I think I need to take the blower assembly apart. I'm hoping it's not something to be got at from the inside of the truck, but rather that the sheet metal beneath the windshield wipers is the access point... I'm going to give it a shot, anyway.

    If you know something different, put me on the right track, please. Thanks.
  • laparka55laparka55 Member Posts: 8
    I'll have to climb under and take a look. I hope it's as simple as that.
  • tkevinblanctkevinblanc Member Posts: 356
    After looking around for awhile, I found that the blower motor bolts in to the bottom of an air box right over the passenger's feet. I took the glove box side of the dash apart to figure out where it was, but I didn't have to. You can get to it without disassembling anything.

    A mouse or chipmunk or something had build a nest in it. I have to try to figure out where it got all the insulation - maybe from underneath the hood...
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    So I went and test drove a FJ and a used TLC. The FJ is very fun to drive, sounds/feels like a jeep and doesn't sway as much as the trooper.

    However while everything I have read says this is equipped as a serious offroader...the visibility is terrible. One of the great features of the trooper offroad is that I feel like I can place any of the tires where they need to go and I have good over-hood sight lines. The FJ is seriously lacking in that department. It is also much smaller inside the cabin.

    The TLC was great...a used one is a worthwhile option...most of the ones I have seen have about 50-60K on them...which means that the fuel pump, timing belt/chain or some mid-life major repair is around the corner.

    I am going to take it to a local shop and scope out the TOD clutch repair before I make any other moves.

    It is still a snowcat, I went out today and was driving around stuck people all over the place...8-10 inches of ice and slush.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I may actually be selling/trading in my 2004 Armada. Not sure if you had any interest in it. May need to go with a Chevy/GMC 2500HD w/Isuzu Diesel engine to tow the Cigarette Boat. Keep in touch as things might work out if you are interested in the Ramada.

    -mike
  • tkevinblanctkevinblanc Member Posts: 356
    I'm betting you could repair it and buy a new Corolla for less than the price of an FJ.

    I wonder if they could put a non-TOD transfer case in it? Probably not, but then you could have a serious off roader and a high MPG road car.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I don't think it would be a problem, grab the transfer case and/or trans from a pre-99 Trooper, the trucks were essentially the same from 92->02

    -mike
  • steelpicksteelpick Member Posts: 12
    Hello,

    I have a question. A few months back my check engine light came on and my repair guy said it was for the EGR Valve. Yesterday, I replaced the valve myself, but the check engine light stayed on. I went to AutoZone and they cleared the code and it stayed off for the rest of the day. This morning however, it was back on again. Any ideas?
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    did you clean the passageway that the EGR goes into? That is usually jammed with carbon deposits.

    -mike
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    No interest in the Armada, Thanks though. Cigarette boat, rally racing, offroading...you are living the high life up there. Sounds like fun.

    The older transfer case is an interesting idea...I am not sure all the electronics would work out.

    At this point, I am going to get an estimate on fixing it first and take it from there.

    I have no room for a 3rd car...if I did...I would probably park the trooper there, drop the case and try to fix it myself...while I drive a used honda/toyota econobox around. I have to think with the right time and tools I could take it apart or even just replace it myself. Ebay had a transfer case for sale for $199 a while back.

    Anyway, I will keep you posted. If I do sell, I will have a bullbar and lights to sell (I assume it will sell easier if I take them off and put the stock bumper back on?)
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Member Posts: 377
    It was in the ISUZU section on Ebay.
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Member Posts: 377
    Anyone had to replace or re-cover the seat bottom on your Trooper seats? I'm thinking of switching the Drivers side seat bottom with the Passenger side. The leather on the Driver seat is starting to break down. How big a job is this going to be?
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Member Posts: 377
    Where did you get your OME shocks, and what model numbers are required for the Front and Back? If you don't mind saying, what did they cost per shock?
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    Do a web search on "OME suspension" and there will be many places to find them. This is the place to read technical details about OME suspensions:
    http://www.arb.com.au/old-man-emu-4x4-suspension.php
    ..
    I purchased the soft version for my 1995 Trooper, used them on that for 100K of its 140K miles before it was rear ended and insurance total loss.
    ..
    I purchased the medium stiff version for my 2001 Trooper also at about 40K miles, now over 100K miles. Since the suspension is "progessive" the medium stiff version is still soft enough on road for me. The comparison between my soft OME equipt 1995 and my medium OME equipt 2001 is that the 2001 has a lighter more responsive or nimble feel, but it is not a huge difference. I have not noticed my OME suspension wearing out on either Trooper. If I had the ordering to do over, I would get the medium again. I hope that helps.
    ..
    I don't remember where I purchased the OME suspension, both times I bought four shocks and the two rear coil springs. They were around $60 an item times 6 items so somewhere close to $360. In my opinion the OME suspension makes the Trooper safer to drive because of the improved control.
    ..
    OME are awesome. They make tuned suspension kits for the older pre- 1992 Troopers also, and the upgrade would make a huge difference in the fun to drive factor.
    ..
    By the way, you will get around 1 to 1.5 inches of additional lift in the rear and should compensate by having the torsion bars up front cranked up a bit to get the Trooper level again for best MPG. I did not want the lift but nothing I can do about it. The 1996 and later Troopers are 1 inch lower on their frames than the 1992 to 1995 so that offsets the lift effect a little. The extra lift should give a little more wheel travel in the rear and the OME shocks can allow the extra travel safely. And with the extra lift your Trooper will look better with larger tires 265/70/16 or 265/75/16 or 275/70/16 will do the trick and not cost too much loss of fuel economy if you buy the lighter weight version of the tire. I have been told that 285/75/16 will fit with the OME suspension but those are going to cost you a lot of MPG because of the energy it will take to spin them up, so unless you are going off road the really big tires are not worthwhile for the looks.
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Member Posts: 377
    Box... did you install the rear springs yourself, or have a shop do it? If you did them yourself, how did you go about it?
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    I have a really good Trooper shop. I let them do it.
    ..
    I think that if the rear frame is lifted until the wheels are not supporting weight, but still touching the ground it should unload the springs. Then unbolt and replace.
    ..
    Here's my mechanic send them an email:
    http://www.creechimport.com/contact.html
  • tkevinblanctkevinblanc Member Posts: 356
    Okay, I bought a new heater blower motor off E-Bay - it's a brand new original part, so I doubt it doesn't work.

    When I plug it in, it doesn't work. I've tried to check the voltage at the leads, but I get very strange results. I can get 14 volts if I put the positive post on one of the leads and the ground elsewhere. I'm thinking that one of the leads is voltage, and the other is something to control motor speed?

    Anyway, if anyone with a manual or wiring diagram could give me some tips on what to look for (is there a relay or something, and where, could there be an inline fuse, etc.), I'd be appreciative.

    Thanks.
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    Last I see is that you thought a squirrel had build a nest, so why did you buy a new motor? Also, what year and model are we looking at....I don't find it in your past posts.
  • tkevinblanctkevinblanc Member Posts: 356
    When I removed the motor, there was a large amount of insulation/etc. that had been packed into the "squirrel cage" (no pun intended) fan. When I removed it, there was a brownish red, greasy fluid that I thought might have come from the motor. And, of course, the motor didn't run. So I figured hey, it's the motor.

    It's a 98 Isuzu Trooper with the Luxury package.

    Thanks in advance for your help.
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    Try these, hope they help:
    http://www.carspace.com/atfdmike/Albums/trooper/98wiring1.gif/page/photo.html#pi- c

    http://www.carspace.com/atfdmike/Albums/trooper/98wiring2.gif/page/photo.html#pi- c

    With the starter switch in START and the transmission control lever in PARK or NEUTRAL (automatic transmission), or with the clutch pedal depressed (manual transmission), voltage is applied to the starter relay and the relay energizes. When the starter switch is turned to ON with the engine running, the relay de-energizes and voltage is applied from the generator to the heater and A/C relay through the normally closed contacts of the starter relay. The heater and A/C relay energizes allowing voltage to be applied from FL-1 (MAIN) fusible link to the blower motor through fuse C-19.The blower switch then applies ground to the blower resistors for the desired blower motor speed. As the blower switch moves from OFF to position 4, resistors are bypassed. As the resistance to ground is decreased, blower speed increases. When the blower switch is in position 4, all of the resistors are bypassed and the blower motor runs at the highest speed
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Member Posts: 377
    I just finished a 350 mile trip to Memphis, TN and i was pleasantly surpried with my mileage. Average was 20 mpg doing 70 mph average speed, mostly flat terrain, dry conditions. Its a 2001 Trooper, 2 wheel drive version, with automatic transmission. She's got about 62K miles on her, and she's still 'tight' and solid. I'm looking to upgrade the suspension with EMU shocks if I can find them in the USA.
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Member Posts: 377
    Well I just had my first failure on my 99' Trooper! The starter gave out at about 97K miles. There was NO warning, it just quit. I had just replaced the battery, and the 3rd crank after that the starter was done! I thought I'd replace it myself, but THINK AGAIN. That thing is buried up in there. Several things had to be removed to get it out according to my mechanic. Remove a crossmember, drop the exhaust, something else too. Bummer this isn't a DIY job.

    Starter cost about $125, and the labor matched that, so all in all it wasn't too bad.
  • tkevinblanctkevinblanc Member Posts: 356
    Mike, thanks for your time and trouble. I'm sure it will help a lot.
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Member Posts: 377
    Well, this is no 10 minute job! On my 99' with power seats, this is an all day project. There are 4 panels to remove just to get to the bolts to remove the seat bottom. The center console had to be removed to get to some of the screws, and this was NO fun. If you plan to re-cover a seat bottom, be prepared to spend a day doing it.

    One note; I believe you could leave the seat back attached to the bottom and still do the re-cover job. It might be a bit cumbersome, but it could be done this way.
  • serranotserranot Member Posts: 113
    Wy didn't you just take the seat out of the truck? Four bolts and a couple of connectors and it lifts out. Would have saved you a lot of trouble.

    Regards,
    Tom
  • backintoitbackintoit Member Posts: 2
    Just had this problem develop yesterday. Local mechanic's computer cannot access ABS system, so I'll have to take it to a dealer. 1999 Trooper 95,XXX miles. Are there any inexpensive programs out there that will access this info?
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Member Posts: 377
    Anyone had to replace their seat covers, in leather? Where did you find ISUZU replacements? I called St. Charles ISUZU, but they don't carry them.
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Member Posts: 377
    In retrospect, that might have been the best approach. I'll look at that a little closer next time, for sure.

    Thanks....
  • tkevinblanctkevinblanc Member Posts: 356
    A trusted mechanic read the codes that turned my CEL on: he says bad mass air flow sensor. I believe him, but I brought the truck home to think about it. A $400+ estimate (plus another $450 plus for a serp belt and two pulleys) was just a little more than I could do this week.

    In some vehicles, the MAF sensor is a simple replacement. How bad is it in the Trooper?

    He does charge for diagnosis, so I don't feel bad about doing this.
  • phyl2phyl2 Member Posts: 2
    just bought my trooper yesterday, 80K miles, and now I see all of this stuff about problems. I had done some research and didn't see any "problems" mentioned. I do not have a users manual..so what are the things I need to be aware of and make sure I do, so that I get some use out of my vehicle. I am a single lady so I can do "zero" by myself..I am just sick about making a bad decision on this vehicle. I am 63 and I don't drive very much ( about 500/600 miles a month) HELP...PLEASE PUT MY MIND AT EASE
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Don't worry most of the "problems" on here are not vehicle-ending type problems. Get the fluids changed and you should be in good shape.

    -mike
  • phyl2phyl2 Member Posts: 2
    thanks for the reply..I read something about 1999 burning a lot of oil and needing to check it often..how often? also, something about the timeing belt(???) needing to be replaced on or about 80K miles...is this serious?..also someone mentioned this year/model the engine blows up???
    How can all of these things be happening and yet this yr/model got such high ratings? I am not very concerned about only getting 15-17 mpg since I don't do much driving but I don't want to have to worry about breaking down and having my engine go out on me...have you had this vehicle?
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    How did you go from blinking ABS light to MAF? ABS is a brake code, not engine. Anyway, MAF sensor is in air duct between cleaner and intake. Just uplug and unclamp, install and reverse. Pretty easy, but pricey. Is your Trupr running bad or what? did he clear the code and did it come back?
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Never heard of a trooper engine blowing up.

    Oil it will burn 1 quart per 1000 miles.

    Timing belt is either at 90k or 105k, about a $500 job give or take.

    -mike
  • tkevinblanctkevinblanc Member Posts: 356
    Everybody is always sick when they buy a used car for the next few weeks after... it's called buyer's remorse.

    Remember that you are reading from a small sample of all the Trooper owners out there. And folks with problems tend to write about them. Folks who are generally satisfied rarely go to a forum to write about that.

    I would check the oil once a week. When it gets low, add some. I think the range from the lower dot on the dipstick to the upper dot is one quart. If you go 500 miles without getting down halfway, your engine is pretty normal. If it's a TOD equipped 4WD, shift it into 4WD every week or so for a few miles.

    You might want to bring the vehicle to a trusted mechanic and make sure that the transmission is full of fluid. A change of fluid couldn't hurt - just be sure that they use the appropriate fluid and fill the tranny all the way - there's no dipstick for you to read.

    Otherwise, the problems you are reading about here are just about exactly the same problems you would read about anywhere about any vehicle. The Trooper is a pretty well build vehicle.
  • tkevinblanctkevinblanc Member Posts: 356
    The intermittent CEL just popped up. The ABS light is a different matter.

    This thing has been parked for a while, and lots of things cropped up while it was parked. Bad idea to park it, I think.

    MAFs are pricey, aren't they. He did clear the code. He said they were "stored" codes, and there were no current readings. It is not back on yet. I'm thinking about cleaning the MAF with MAF cleaner (there are sprays made just for this), making sure the plug contacts are good, then just seeing what happens. One of my other vehicle is a TDI, and there are long threads on club discussion boards about how often the problem with a MAF is really a problem with the electrical contacts...
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