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Comments
Trooper Steve
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So, If you find a suitable alternative that does not return to the rattle, please post about it. I will then fix mine.
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Meanwhile, the rattle is only during certain types of acceleration and then only for several seconds, not really all that bothersome to me.
THANKS A BUNCH...
MADDY :confuse:
The transmission on the other hand is a different issue. A replacement Automatic will cost about $5K and repair quotes typically run about $2K. I hope your's isn't in serious trouble.
Actually there are two sounds I get - one is the engine itself which has been there pretty well for some time. The other seems to be associated with the timing chain. I've come to notice that the timing chain tends to rattle more when the oil is low (pressure still OK though).
Were you able to fix your problem? If so could you detail how you fixed it for us?
Thanks a lot.
CP
I determined that the problem with my heater blower was the resistor controller (don't know what this piece is called). By examining it, I figured out which were the "bypass the resistors connectors" were in the plug, and I jumpered it with a piece of solid 14 guage wire. When I turn the fan switch to high, it blows like stink.
The resistor controller unit is held into the air duct with two screws, just "downwind" of the fan, right behind the glovebox. Take out the glovebox (four screws) and you on it.
Now, to find an Isuzu dealer that actually has the part...
Thanks for your help with the wiring diagrams and the concepts.
I am not sure what the "xs" you refer to is about. Hope this helps.
Now, automate your algorithm and create a web page, with ads for all sorts of stuff to buy.
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Next, offer the technology as a service for market research
Don't you need one or more independent variables on the right side?
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Thanks again.
I found an *aftermarket* MAF for $155... any chance it will actually work?
Anyone else interested, send me an e-mail and I'll send you the link.
http://isuzufaq.ibctech.ca/#faq1
If that link doesn't come through (CarSpace might not like it), e-mail me.
Thanks
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I would clean out the vents below the wipers on the hood and make sure nothing is blocking the areas around under the hood near the firewall.
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I enjoyed a 1995 Trooper for 140K+ miles before it was rear ended so hard the air bags went off and that $6000 air bag repair totaled it.
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I have had 1984 Trooper 201K miles, 1995 Trooper 140K miles, then rear ended, totaled even though it was still drive able. Now I have a 2001, very nice one previous owner who took great care. I have no troubles with it except that I should keep it cleaner than I do.
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While the fuel gauge was stuck, I used an assumption for MPG and the odometer to guess when I needed to fill up. And while the speedometer and odometer did not work I used the gas gauge to guess how far I'd driven, along with mile markers and a map. I sometimes followed another car at a resonable distance to get the speed about right.
For example if you are looking at a LS model, it might come with cloth vs. leather, or black outside mirrors vs. color matched to exterior paint color. The A/C controls may be from a late 90's version vs. the 00' forward version. You might get manual operated seats vs. electric, or other interior trim differences. Most of these things are just cosmetic, but if you're picky it matters. I don't know that they did anything unusual with the driveline on the 2002 model.
I was wondering if there is anyone out there that can tell me how to tweek my air/fuel mixture on my carborator. I can't seem to figure it out. I can't even seem to find it in the Chilltons manual. I am having a problem with ecceleration on my truck. I did do a complete tune-up on my truck. Ie: plugs/wires/cap/roter/o2 sensor/fuel filter/fuel system flush. All the above. When I hit the gas on my truck, it bogs down. This usually happens if I press on the gas to much. My truck will jerk on and off when I hit the gas. Almost like its getting and then not getting fuel. If there is anyone out there who can help, it would be greatly appreciated...
Maddy :confuse:
-mike
One guys opinion.
I would try jumpering the fuel pump at the relay first thing in the morning and pressurizing the fuel system before trying to start it to see if that cures the problem. If it does, then you can choose which components to check next. I am curious, though, about whether this condition just started or has been going on a while?
Hope this helps, one guys opinion.