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Isuzu Trooper

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Comments

  • 4whldave4whldave Member Posts: 3
    I am having idling and drivability problems with my 1984 Trooper. It acts like a miss but it runs rough and has great power loss. At an idle it will die. any ideas? I have replaced the following..........Plugs, wires, rotor, cap, coil, fuel filter many different vacuum lines.
  • bsmart2bsmart2 Member Posts: 15
    The universal clip worked perfectly!! Its still working today. There is a special glue that the clip supplier provided along with the clip. No problems since i put in on a couple of years ago. You will be glad you spent the money to fix it!!
  • rberry7682rberry7682 Member Posts: 1
    90,000 miles engine light stays on and blinks when I accelerate. When I let off say at a red light it stalls/idles really rough. sometimes it runs good but usually after 5 minutes or so this starts happening. had all four o2 sensors replaced and everything from spark plugs and wires to the coil checked and nothing was found. Took it another place for a pin-out test which had no findings and the mechanic thinks the camshaft gear is loose and said that there are similar issues with these trucks? Could this be the issue?
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    Well, I am no expert, and I am assuming you have a 3.5L trooper, which is the same basic design as the troopers from 93 up, with some minor changes along the way. Any mechanic that tells you "camshaft gear" has no idea what he is telling you. There are several "gears" in the cam timing mechanism and your problem sounds electrical to me. That said, I think there is a "camshaft sensor" on your truck that is electrical, but I can't say that it is at fault. A true Pin out test using the isuzu factory manual would allow a good mechanic to check sensors to make sure they are in "range". I would absolutely get the codes read in your ecm, and write them down and go to a mechanic that has some familiarity with Isuzus and electrical troubleshooting. HTH One guys opinion.
  • budermbuderm Member Posts: 9
    I had this problem too when I bought my 2000 Trooper from someone.

    I think it is one of two things (just dont know which one)

    I gave it a tune-up.. my problem were the spark plugs - i ordered some fancy ones, and realized that I had to get the special ones for the trooper since of the ION-sensoring item. no clue, but that helped it. Make sure you have the right spark plugs, and not the ones that should be ok... NGK something were the ones I got.

    Also, Check the intake manifold for leaks. I had one, and it caused some issues too..

    One of those two above cases is a problem that seems like you could be having.. i just really dont know which one it is.. checking for leaks is easy..
  • 4whldave4whldave Member Posts: 3
    Ok here is an update. Truck is running perfect in the mornings now. It had many different vacuum leaks. Problem now is in the afternoon temps rising and sun out more it will miss in the afternoon only! totally confused with this one though. I have tried a few tuning things (timing, fuel mixture, idle) none of which have helped this afternoon problem. It does sound as if the lifters/valves are ticking more then usual if that makes sense? I heard these motors need constant valve gap checks and adjustments. Could this be the problem?

    Thanks in advance
  • badisuzubadisuzu Member Posts: 4
    I found this link. Just FYI I figured what the heck and filled out the form. Please pass this along to anyone you know who had an engine failure

    http://www.sfmslaw.com/pages/cases.php?id=681
  • moxconmoxcon Member Posts: 2
    hey Sean, if you're still around i have ???'s are you sure there is no factory crossover. i hate to tear my doors apart .i replaced both 6.5's and pillar tweeters with polk components now at higher volume the speakers cut in and out .any suggestions?
    thanks
    mox
  • wuchiwuchi Member Posts: 1
    Hi,

    I have a 1999 Isuzu Trooper at around 113,000 miles. The car is starting to sway (rock back and forth) more when I go over bumps. It's not 'catching' as much/rocks side-to-side. It's not really dramatic, but just enough to make you a little car sick.

    Recent car goings-on:
    -- Replaced shocks (original equipment) yesterday to see if this would help it. Didn't seem to help much. Put on the Mountain Ryder Gas http://www.lesschwab.com/shocks/mountainryder_gas.asp shocks at Les Schwab.
    -- Have newer tires (about 2 years old), all-weather -- wear pattern seems ok.
    -- Recently had starter replaced twice, 1st one didn't work out. About a month after this I noticed the sway more. Don't know if something got banged-up in the front end when the dealer was working on it.
    -- Left rear axil seal leak last fall (hub bearing and seal)

    Any suggestions on what to look at/replace?

    Also, if you know of any suggestions for a car this age to get the road/air-flow noise down some. Should I replace the rubber lining on the doors?

    Thanks ahead for any suggestions.
  • bsmart2bsmart2 Member Posts: 15
    It has to be an issue with the suspension. The new shocks must have a problem. Are the mounted properly, with the right amount of torque? Were they properly sized for the Trooper?

    To replace that starter requires a undercarriage cross-member to be removed and the exhaust pipe to be dropped. Did the repairman put everything back together properly? Is the cross-member loose?
  • wlbrown9wlbrown9 Member Posts: 867
    I replaced my starter last year. I had to drop that cross member but not the exhaust pipe, '00 Trooper. Of course the exhaust would not affect the stability while the cross member might.

    One other thought, how about the sway bars? If the end of one is loose or broken (had that happen on a Quest van years ago) that could cause the problem.
  • matausmataus Member Posts: 43
    I hope someone can help. I am looking to replace my 2.8 liter engine with another that has more power. The high end on the 2.8 liter really sucks. On the other hand, the low end is awesome! Especially in 4 wheel! I'll take my Trooper up against any Jeep! At any time!

    I've heard from a few people that there is a Chevy engine that will line up with my tranny. Something in the area of a Chevy 3.1 liter v6. I don't know the specific engine or the year, but if there is something out there that would have more power. it would be great! My 90 Trooper is in excellent condition! I just need a more powerful engine.

    Any help would be greatly appreciated...

    Maddy :confuse:
  • matausmataus Member Posts: 43
    Just wondering if anyone out there would know of a more powerful engine that could replace my 1990 ISUZU TROOPER 4X4 MANUAL 5 SPEED WITH A 2.8 LITER V6.

    Any help would be greatly appreciated...

    Maddy :confuse:
  • mpelmpel Member Posts: 23
    Should I be concerned that my '99 Trooper's engine gets warm - temp gauge needle right in the middle - in under a mile, literally in a few minutes??!! It never goes PAST the middle on the gauge - but sometimes it just "smells hot" if you know what I mean - not a burning oil smell or anything alarming...just "hot".

    Had a mech say, "if its not going past middle of gauge not to worry about it...if anything, its god that the engine warms up alot quicker than other cars."
  • egyptgerryegyptgerry Member Posts: 22
    Hi there,I have 2 3.1turbo diesel Troopers and yes they do run Hot,Dont worry as the mechanic said as long as the gauge is in the middle then everything is ok,Also you say that it smells hot,Strange you should say that but 1 of my troopers was the same but then i realise that it was the tyres as i have on that 1 a set of goodrich semi on/off road tyres and the get hot and do smell a little,the track is 100% it is just they smell when i park up,Regards Gerry in the Uk
  • armytrooperarmytrooper Member Posts: 2
    I think my car is stuck in 4 wheel drive. I got in the car today and the Torque on demand rear wheels are lit up green, I have no idea how this happened or how to fix it.
  • green11green11 Member Posts: 22
    Just sent my 1999 loaded trooper to the grave yard. It was in great condition but I got 4500 cash for clunkers towards my wifes new car. Only 113k miles and well maintained. Fairly new expensive tires, new brakes and all options worked.

    I was planning to keep it as a third vehicle before the rebate program.

    I can not belive it is going to "die" with so much life left, and I can not believe I was so attached to it. I have imagined the government keeping the best "clunkers" for government use so it can live on.

    I have owned many cars. None more relaible than the trooper that I owned for about 6 years.
  • cracoviancracovian Member Posts: 337
    They'll take everything out of it except for the thirsty drivetrain (which in itself is a ticking bomb - no pun intended) - It will live on as a donor car :)

    I'm keeping my 2002 - I can't believe it's worth ~$4500 on paper though... Even 2000 Rodeos have a higher trade-in value for some reason.
  • green11green11 Member Posts: 22
    Thanks for the kind words.

    I never believe in trade in values anyways on older cars not in demand. You will get more from an individual but I hate the hassle of selling, that is why I was prepared to just drive out the car before the clunker program. You may even get offered shockingly less than you think that if you actually trade in at a dealer.

    I now have a crossover SUV and a car. Thought I was ready for the change, but I miss the "truck". I am sure I will adjust or get something more truck like next, whenever that is.
  • bsmart2bsmart2 Member Posts: 15
    Rear wheels lit up green on TOD display is NORMAL. It should have been on anytime the ignition is on.
  • bsmart2bsmart2 Member Posts: 15
    ON 'paper' a Trooper is worthless, and we all know how bogus that is. They run well, they are well made, tough as a cobb, and very comfortable to drive. They provide utility interior space like few other SUV's, and the have long lives, for the most part. Anyone who has owned a Trooper for more than 4 year has become attached to it, b/c its been a reliable friend to them. Sure some Troopers haven't been properly maintained and have let folks down, but most likely b/c they didn't know about the oil consumption issues, and let it run dry.
    I've had 4 Troopers now, starting with a 1988 went to a 1997, a 1999 and a 2001. None of them let me down. Worthless??? No way........if they are paid for, they are worth about $10000 b/c that's what it would cost to replace them with a used reliable SUV of any size. A new comparable sized SUV will cost around $25000 maybe more, and the mileage isn't that much better than what I'm getting. I figure I can spend about $300 a month on gas and more than break even when I don't have a car payment each month.
    I bet you'll regret letting your 99' Troop go before its over. It would have run another 150K miles if taken care of. I'd like to know where it's located and go get it!!
  • green11green11 Member Posts: 22
    Good points and true. I did grow attached. My daughter cried when I dropped it off and told me I was making a bad decision. If I had a larger driveway or a true need for a truck bases SUV I would have kept if. Life is often about timing. The cash for clunkers and my wife needing a new vehicle tempted me. I knew the transmission could have went out the next day or it very well may have been a reliable extra vehicle for another decade. I was driving it more than my other car even when it was the extra vehicle. All options except cd changer worked prefectly and it had every single option. I mainly do city driving so the mpg was not a bid deal. It did burn oil and had EGR that went bad like everyone else. My mpg was only about 12 in the city, but I had larger tires. Other than that brakes, tires, and battery. That was it.

    Why I miss it:

    It was dependable and I got it cheap. I think it actually cost me less than a thousand dollars a year to run with car payment and repairs not includidng gas when all calculated. never had another vehicle that came anywhere close to that. It was a poor man's land rover, and almost as plushwhen loaded but with lower maintenance costs.

    It was like having a large SUV in midsize skin.

    It was loaded

    I liked sitting high with the airy cabin.

    I liked knowing I could go anywhere or tow even though it mainly saw pavement. It was not so new or expensive like a land rover that I was afraid to get a dent or scratch, but it still looked nice. Paint was just starting to flake off around tires a little.

    I got a used convertible pontiac G6 at a great deal. Thought I could have both my rugged and girly man vehicle, but it did not work out like I planned.
  • mau4mau4 Member Posts: 2
    I have tried several tools to take that one far driver's side rear screw......I cannot take it out! can you please let me know exactly what tool you used so I can go get it?
    Thanks a lot!
  • davem5davem5 Member Posts: 8
    That's ok green11 you did what you needed to. I was tempted with my '01 LS (150k miles), I truly was. But I can put up with the 16 mpg because its been paid for forever, and I love the comfort of the truck and ability to carry anything. My only major repair was the transmission went out at 60k (fully covered); otherwise my Trooper has been a great car and still looks good. Trade-in value is only $2-3k, so the $4500 was very tempting.

    But my last car (a Nissan truck) went 260k+, and I sold it for $2500 cash when I got my Trooper. And the aspect that they'd assassinate it really bothered me. I can try to wait 2-3 more years.
  • cracoviancracovian Member Posts: 337
    My 2002 Troop "only" has 58K on it, so the tranny is covered (at least theoretically) until August 2012 :) I will not get rid of it at least until then plus with the world ending in December of that year, who knows, it may even get me and my family as far as Tibet (I doubt Sienna will cut though the mileage is insane and it could do it on one tank alone)

    My map light's switch is busted and the cruise control works when it wants to. Other than that it looks and rides like new. The brakes on the Trooper are massive but should I start looking into replacing them soon? I don't trust any of the places out there; can I replace the pads myself, what about the rotors, and how would you check how much life you have left?
  • wlbrown9wlbrown9 Member Posts: 867
    It has been a couple of years, but IIRC I changed my pads, front and rear, at around 75K miles ('00 Trooper LS 2/wd.) I probably could have waited another 25K miles. Not too much problem if you have done it before. There were the second I had done, first was a '00 Grand Cherokee.

    You could probably check the rotors for thickness and runout against the specs in a repair manual, but if the surfaces looks okay and they have not warped, I would just change the pads and go on. I'm up to 148,000 on original rotors. (The Grand Cherokee rotors were warped at less than 10K and were problems until I replaced with budget rotors from Autozone.

    One other suggestion would be to try and find the OEM pads at an Isuzu dealer or order from St Charles Isuzu if they are still around. These pads do not dust like other brands. Even after I changed to ceramic on the Jeep there was dust.

    My Trooper is in semi-retirement...will probably be doing 5K or less a year since a Saturn Outlook is my need daily driver.
  • matausmataus Member Posts: 43
    Hi All...!

    I ran into a problem with my Trooper just recently. 5 thousand miles back, I replaced my clutch. I.e.: bearings, pressure plate, clutch pad, etc.. Now I notice that my clutch is slipping once again. I have always been easy on the clutch, and have taken great care of my vehicles.

    So, the question is obvious..."Why is this happening"? Am I missing something? The clutch worked like a charm after replacing. I'm not sure or not if this particular clutch can be tightened. And if so, how is this possible?

    If there is anyone out there who can help, It would be greatly appreciated... :confuse:

    Oh, just one more thing......"TROOPERS ROCK! ;)

    Maddy
  • kegriffinjrkegriffinjr Member Posts: 1
    I replaced the starter and before replacing the exhaust pipe I turned the starter over. I got what sounded like a small backfire but the starter sounded fine.Ireplaced the pipe and now it won't start. I ran a hot-wire to the fuel pump and it ran fine and checked all the fuses and relays. If I pour fuel into the intake it will run until the fuel runs out. If I let it set for a while it will start and then die. Any help would be great
  • bsmart2bsmart2 Member Posts: 15
    You will need a u-joint socket attachment for your socket wrench. You will need a 3 inch extension and a 6 inch socket extension. Assuming you have a deep well socket, attach the 6 inch extension to it and put down in the spark plug well. Before it goes all the way in, add the 3 inch extension to it and then insert it all the way into the well, over the plug. Attach your u-joint 'swivel' and your socket wrench and carefully remove the plug.
    The socket should have a rubber insert in it so it will hold the plug as you pull the wrench and attachments out of the well. Reverse the wrench assembly as you remove the plug.
  • ggongolaggongola Member Posts: 2
    Have an '00 Trooper 4wd w/125k miles. A couple years ago, when trying to engage the TOD, the light would just flash on the dash and 4WD would not engage. Our service center said we need a new solenoid, to the tune of about $400. We never had it fixed because we live in a warm climate and don't do offroading, but we'll be driving in the midwest over the upcoming holidays and would like this fixed.

    Likewise, but more recently, our ABS light came on and the ABS doesn't work at all now. The service center said we need a new EHCU, which is around $1500-2000. Ouch!! Doesn't seem right.

    Anyone have suggestions to keep the cost down on these repairs? I'm not very good mechanically, but could probably clean out a couple sensors or something if that's worth a try. I don't mind spending $$ to get these things fixed, but certainly not $1,500+. Part of me would just like to find a good mechanic who could better diagnose whether it's just dirty sensors or whatever because replacing with rare and expensive parts, but I'm not sure what to look for there. Do I just find a mechanic and buy him a Helm's/Chilton's book for the Trooper? Please help me not make an expensive mistake, as I try to get my Trooper to 200k.

    Thanks!

    P.S., I tried searching this forum on these topics, but frankly, but I find this discussion board really hard to search / read / navigate, so I apologize if a lot of this has been discussed before. It seems like there's just one big discussion of everything related to Troopers, and as people reply to each question/post, the replies just become new messages under "Trooper" -- there is no simple way to view a threaded set of replies to someone's specific question about their Trooper.
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    You may want to try Isuzu Trooper TOD and 4WD Issues.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • chris263chris263 Member Posts: 2
    I can't help you with the TOD because my 2000 Trooper is 2wd but my ABS light came on about 2 years ago and I have never had an issue. I just replaced my front rotors and pads at 154K miles(1st time at 100K) and they work great.

    I'm not going to tell you not to get it fixed but I'm not about to spend 2k on a car with 156k on it when the brakes appear to work fine.

    Good luck :)
  • jezatanjezatan Member Posts: 1
    I have a 93 Trooper LS and I can't find the petcock on the radiator. Do I need to remove the skid plate?
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    It is tough to reach....I don't think removing the skid plate will help since it will let in more light and a little more room, but the radiator sits on the radiator shell and you still have to be behind it to see it. I have used a socket and extension to reach in...the petcock is a flat blade for your fingers, but it is so tight to get to it that a socket and extension will reach it if you get the socket that allows the blade to slip in but still bites when you turn it. HTH One guys opinion.
  • cracoviancracovian Member Posts: 337
    I suspect fixing TOD will cost you more than $400 - it's probably the rather common issue with the sensors (I believe there are at least two) that cost over $500 each for parts alone... Yikes!

    It's probably cheaper to get a winter tire setup that should get you through the snow and ice relatively well.
  • dmitrycdmitryc Member Posts: 6
    Every once in a while my Trooper, when turning on the ignition, will startup very strong, but when putting into drive will bogg down for a second or two until I push the gas pedal.
    Any ideas why this would happen?
  • bsmart2bsmart2 Member Posts: 15
    could be a IMG leak. What other symptoms have you noticed? Does the problem presist after the engine warms up?
  • dmitrycdmitryc Member Posts: 6
    Hmmm, what is an IMG? If the car warms up, sometimes, I may turn it off and then in a few minutes turn it on and it won't start up right away but again have to apply gas.
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    IMG = Intake Manifold Gasket
  • niulniul Member Posts: 1
    Hello,
    I live on the south side of Denver Colorado in Jeffco and am looking for an independent shop or a good dealer who has a guy who knows '86 - '91 Troopers?
    I've got a '91 with a 4EZ1 and 310,000 and a '91 with 150,000 and a 2.8.
    Some days I'm just too tired. Would like to find someone to pay to do the work.
    Thanks,
    John
  • junkyardedjunkyarded Member Posts: 1
    I posted another message and still have a problem after trying someones quick - fix which was using Sea-Foam Tranny cleaner. What's happening is my 1995 V6 automatic 4 WD Trooper doesn't like to move in reverse - Forward gears are all pretty good but in reverse it won't climb a steep incline - not great but not too bad on level ground - The motor will not rev over 2000 rpm in reverse so I'm guessing the may be some valve or sensor keeping it ( the motor ) from producing enough power or RPM's to get it up the hill - HELP !!!! :cry:
  • dougi8dougi8 Member Posts: 1
    can anyone tell me how to fix my heater on my trooper it does'nt seem to work,now and again it will come on but most of the time it won't. :(
  • bsmart2bsmart2 Member Posts: 15
    Need a little more information to help answer this question. Describe the symptoms as detailed as possible. No fan, no heat, neither.........?? Any odd noises??
  • bsmart2bsmart2 Member Posts: 15
    Well it looks like i finally got a resolution to this problem. I took it to a master mechanic who test drove it and put a analyzer on it while driving. He called me the next day and said, ' well it's not your transmission, and it's not engine mis-fire trouble'.

    OK.........what is it ???

    You're starving your engine..........your fuel filter is plugged up, almost completely and fuel wasn't getting to the engine. I've replaced the fuel filter and put Chevron with Techron in the gas tank to clean out the piping and injectors. It seems to be running smoother, but it could take some time to see final results. May require a injector replacement if it doesn't smooth completely and run like its supposed to.

    Are you kidding me.........so I'm driving it now to see what happens. I'll have the final story here when I know it. But, for now it looks promising. Should know in a week or so.
  • steveinconcordsteveinconcord Member Posts: 1
    I want to pull the CD Changer out of my 2001 Trooper LS. It sits below the radio and right above the console. Anyone know where I can find the plastic box liner that fills that hole?
  • bsmart2bsmart2 Member Posts: 15
    I believe I still have the one I removed when I installed my CD player several years ago. I'd have to take a look to make sure though.
  • bsmart2bsmart2 Member Posts: 15
    I'm on my 2nd tank of Techron treated fuel, and it seems to be cleaning the system up. The shudder symptoms are getting much less frequent. The last few trips out around town, no incidents.
  • serranotserranot Member Posts: 113
    If you want to really clean it out, use some Berrymans B12 Chemtool. I'm convinced that there is no more toxic brew. The stuff just dissolves plastic and rubber when it is concentrated. However, added in reasonable quantities to the fuel system, it eats gas varnish for breakfast.

    FWIW, I had to replace the fuel pump and strainer in my '99 Trooper. It got to the point I had to keep a full tank of gas to get it to run. Pretty soon I had to be gentle with the throttle when giving it gas. Strainer that was attached to the fuel pump was plugged.

    Tom
  • budermbuderm Member Posts: 9
    I bought a trooper a couple years ago, and never needed to use the seat heaters, but I decided to try it - and of course it didnt work.

    The drivers side switch does nothing when i press heat or keep, and doesnt warm the seat either. The passenger side switch illuminates when either is pressed, but the seat doesnt heat up.

    Any suggestions? I looked at all the fuses, but really havent found anything. Is there something in the seats or under them? I have not looked yet

    Thanks for any help
  • suncloud00suncloud00 Member Posts: 4
    I am in the process of re-installing a 2.6 4 cylinder back into an '89 Trooper. I am having problems getting the engine to align with the mounting plates. When I set the clutch assembly, it seems to have pulled the motor back from the mounting bolts. Any ideas?
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