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Isuzu Trooper

18586889091233

Comments

  • mkayemkaye Member Posts: 184
    Hummmph. The alarm is not functional, likely related to the 'answer back' feature of the fob. The alarm indicator light flashes repeatedly when the door is opened (all unlocked). Even with the alarm fuse pulled, flashing is the same. Locking doors with window rolled down and opening door causes the indicator light to flash repeatedly for 30 seconds, but no alarm sound.

    Well, off to the dealer on Monday!
  • mkayemkaye Member Posts: 184
    Got it figured out. No trip to the dealer.
    The passenger doors were locking and unlocking fine, but the tailgate door lock was 'stuck' 1/2 way between fully locked and unlocked. It didn't open with the outside handle, so it was locked. Once I cycled the tailgate door lock with the key, everything works fine again. Answer-back works and alarm is fine. I think I need to take the rear panel off and lube up the mechanism.

    So, it seems that the answer-back IS related to alarm activation. The alarm light, again, did not blink normally, indicating the alarm didn't arm.

    Sbcooke and Paisan, thanks for the feed back to my question. Appreciate the help.

    By the way, this is what I found on the net for changing the answer back setting for a 98 Rodeo. I didn't try it. Wasn't sure if this was a key fob reprogram or a possible rain dance:
    ------------------
    Ok Ok, I will translate the manual here (page 5-25 rodeo 98 manual). I just tried this on my 98 rodeo and it worked. I engaged the horn and disengaged it twice.

    1. Open driver door (leave open)
    2. Insert key in open driver door turn to lock and unlock 3 times within 10 seconds (lock unlock, lock unlock, lock unlock) during lock all locks should engage during unlock just turn enough to lock driver door.
    3. Close the door twice within 10 seconds (With key in lock), close open, close open Turn key to lock and unlock 3 times within 10 seconds (lock unlock, lock unlock, lock unlock) same way as in step 2
    4. Close door & open the door (doors will lock as you open door)
    Now you do one of two things:
    5a. Lock and unlock once to engage to horn
    5b. Lock and unlock three times (within 10 seconds) to disengage the horn

    Now let me transcribe that last step from the manual, the manual reads:
    "5. Close the door and open the door Response of Door Lock Motor (Lock,Unlock once, if the fail, Lock and unlock 3 times)."

    I think the fact that Door Lock Motor is capitalized like God, says
    something about this process.
    -------------------------
    Here is how you silence the answerback horn. The owner's manual actually has it correct. You need to perform the actions slowly, about one action every second. If you do it to fast, then nothing will happen. With the door open, Lock-Unlock-Lock-Unlock-Lock-Unlock-Close the door-Open the door-Close the door-Open the door-Lock-Unlock-Lock-Unlock-Lock-Unlock-Close the door-Open the door. If you do it successfully, once you open the door for the last
    time, the locking mechanism in the door should lock and unlock by itself. Remember, do it slowly.
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    Glad to hear it was a simple fix. Strange about how it behaved, but good to know what to check for if it ever happens to me.
  • savvas_esavvas_e Member Posts: 347
    That piece of advice about the roof panel not enduring more than 100lb came from Jackaroo World in Melbourne.

    The roofrackcity.com.au website has a little bit more detail for each type of rack and some can take a lot more load. But wouldn't you know it, the load rating on Thule kits are TBA!!!
  • savvas_esavvas_e Member Posts: 347
    I did some fast dirt in September last year, between Wombeyan Caves and Taralga in NSW. Lots of fun and lots of billowing dust (serviceable air filter needed). There was no hint that the car's real colour is Foxfire Red as it was absolutely hidden by white dust.

    Then I got stuck behind a Suzuki Sierra and couldn't get passed it due to lack of visibility.

    The TOD indicator showed one bar all the time, at between 80 and 100 km/h. Thinking back though, I really should have gone a little slower as things could have come undone very easily at those speeds. Maybe stay at about 80km/h. However, the TOD was absolutely no problem.
  • savvas_esavvas_e Member Posts: 347
    Congratulations. I'm sure you'll fall in love with your Trooper as just about everyone here does their's!
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    A guy down in Uwharrie had a cool ARB rack. Tad from Planet Isuzoo climbed up ontop of it and it held a lot of weight. I know through ECB I can get tents for the their baskets for the top of the trooper.

    The problem is that everyone wants to make sure they don't get sued for accidents. So they rate them at 100 or 150lbs so that people don't load up a refridge on the roof and then roll over their car and turn around and sue the manufacturer. All aftermarket rack makers usually state whatever # is given for the manufacturer's rack to cover their own butt.

    -mike
  • savvas_esavvas_e Member Posts: 347
    Mike...

    The guy from Planet Isuzoo on top of the ARB rack is a static load. The fractures won't result until some vibration is generated while loaded.

    I did spot one Jackaroo about 6 months ago that had cracks around the roof rack mounts, radiating to the centre of the vehicle. It was a '92 XS and probably was overloaded a number of times.

    The vehicle overall looked like it had much better days, had 350,000km on the clock (220,000 miles?). Generally very shabby in appearance but sounded ok mechanically. It had been across the Gunbarrel highway twice, which would have exposed it to a lot of corrugated roadway. The vibration from the corrugated road and heavy loading would certainly induce fracturing of the roof.

    Today's tendency to build cars with slide-in roof panels does result in lower roof load capacities. The roof of a current Trooper (or Montero, or Land Cruiser) doesn't have the same load capacity as an 80 series Land Cruiser or something else with a fully welded roof.

    On top of all that, driving around with a higher centre of gravity would be the bit that puts me off anyway.

    I think I would invest in a dual position cargo barrier before I got the roof rack. We went camping in January this year for 10 days. After removing the third row seats, the back of the Monterey swallowed all gear for two adults and two kids. It was all held in place by six load straps and a cargo net. However the barrier would make things a lot safer.
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    I have had about 100lbs on my thule without any problems. It actually felt like it could carry a lot more. For safety sake, I haven't put much more than that up there.

    I am not sure if the mounting and base feet design lend that kind of rack to supporting more weight? That might be an advantage to the thule/yakima style over mounting to the rain gutters.
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    sawas_e
    Thank you for finding all the roof rack cracking information. I put a canoe or two up there and sometimes bikes, I don't do washboard roads with heavy roof rack loads, so I don't expect cracking.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Savvas, you are correct about the vibrations for sure. I hadn't even thought about going on such rough roads with the load. Over here most people would be using it to carry a big load on say the highway or paved streets. I usually use a utility trailer if it can't fit inside.

    -mike
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    how about those cargo boxes that mount to the trailer hitch and sit right behind the vehicle? I will probably pursue that route if we ever need more storage space in the Trooper.
  • inform_meinform_me Member Posts: 18
    I posted thsi question on Rodeo board. But I find activity only in Trooper section, that I am posting it here too..

    I have a 1998 Isuzu Rodeo V6 (S model with around 44000 miles now). I have noted for the last 1 year that when I apply brakes on hitting a pothole or suddenly, the SUV doesnot stop abruptly (like my other car with out anti-lock brakes). It will still go about 10 feet before it stops. Is it a feature of the anti-lock brakes or is it a problem with ISUZU Rodeo? I read some problem with Rodeo's brakes a long time ago in one of these forums. The problem is you cannot rely on the SUV in bumber-to-bumber traffic, any more because it needs more distsnce to stop than my car.

    Can anyone help me with an answer. I donot want to visit the dealer and pay 300$ just to hear that there is no problem. Do you think, it is time to get brake readjusted or brake pads replaced? ( I apologize for being dump on the questions, but I am one of those souls who know only to fill gas and check air pressure)

    Please reply ..(Rodeo 98 owners or any one..)
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    The problem is very common on ABS equipped vehicles, especially those with long-travel suspensions. The problem is that the wheels are loosing grip due to the tires and or suspension. The best bet is to put in gas-shocks and new tires. I noticed this cut down that situation on my trooper to only in the very bumpiest/fastest situation.

    I know some guys with subarus who have the same problem. They hit some potholes/washboards @ speed and hit the brakes, and the ABS engages unlocking the wheels that have locked up as they bounce out of the holes. Tires and suspension upgrades fixed that for them as well.

    -mike
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Member Posts: 377
    what a HIT! Let me tell you, it is surprising how rugged these Trooper's are. We took a broadside hit this weekend by a Tarus, which ruined the passenger side of my Trooper, but ripped the nose right off the Tarus. Fortunately, no one was hurt or injured. I was able to drive away, but the Tarus had to be towed. The interior showed no signs of the impact except the rear passenger door which buckled out at the top. Amazingly, no glass shattered. I'm very upset about the whole thing, but happy no one was hurt.
  • jimmyp1jimmyp1 Member Posts: 640
    Sorry about the wreck, bsmart. So glad everybody was ok.

    Jim
  • bawbcatbawbcat Member Posts: 118
    Was that combination available in 1999? I thought TOD was only available with the automatic tranny. However, there is a '99 Trooper on Ebay has a manual tranny and TOD. Is it for real?


    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1829925815

  • tetonmantetonman Member Posts: 73
    Justifies every penny you've spent on the Trooper. Good truck. Hope the flashbacks of accident end soon...

    Tetonman
  • mkayemkaye Member Posts: 184
    If it is a 5-speed, it has to be the part time system. I think that is the only way the manual tranny came period.

    Bsmart1, glad you are OK too. No doubt the Trooper overall is a stout vehicle.
  • savvas_esavvas_e Member Posts: 347
    Absolutely good to hear that everyone was ok.

    50mph is one hell of a hit! To drive away from it is amazing. Definitely an advantage of having a separate chassis. I doubt a monocoque like Montero could do the same.
  • savvas_esavvas_e Member Posts: 347
    What you describe, is a "feature" of ABS. It can be disconcerting and the sensation is exaggerated in an SUV.

    The golden rule with ABS is to hit the brake pedal hard in emergency situations, and keep the pressure on until you come to a stop. Don't try and modulate the pedal as you would in a non-ABS vehicle.

    If it is still worrying you, there are other options you can try later on when things come up for replacement or machining. Items like slotted disc rotors can help reduce your braking distance. You can check out an example of these on www.dba.com.au.

    However, you mention that it has started occuring in the last year or so. It maybe related to your shocks wearing out and hence the tyres aren't in contact with road as much as they should be. Bounce each corner of your car by hand, and if it doesn't come to rest within one rebound they may need replacing. You also point out that it tends to occur on potholes, etc. For me, that all points to shock absorber wear.

    Hope that helps.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    After a hit like that! Definitely a good sign for the Trooper. And the US gov wants to get rid of the Trooper and Land Cruiser because it doesn't have enough crumple zones. Sheesh talk about an idiotic idea.

    -mike
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    No MT Isuzu can have TOD.
    TOD is only available for AT equipped cars.

    -mike
  • jammingjamming Member Posts: 5
    Thanks to Paisan, sawas_e, boxtrooper etc for the excellent info regarding roof racks. I like the idea of mounting to the screw holes vs. using the clips. I'll post when its done.

    Gao16- More congrats...This site & Town Hall were the reasons I bought my '01 LS in March of '01. I too was leaning towards domestics until I saw the service horror stories posted.

    20K miles later, & couldn't be happier. Happy Troopin'!
  • savvas_esavvas_e Member Posts: 347
    I read an article today in a 4WD new buyers guide about the Jackaroo. It states that Holden has yet to decide on a replacement for it and that the current model is about to undergo another revamp that will see it through to the end of its life at the end of 2003.

    Apparently Holden doesn't want to turn the triplets into quadruplets. Or it can't because there is no RHD variant yet. I hope it's the former!
  • inform_meinform_me Member Posts: 18
    My sincere thanks to all of you who gave me tips on use of ABS and clarify my concerns about 98 Rodeo.

    Thanks

    inform_me
  • gtroopgtroop Member Posts: 85
    Hope that you don't get the extended Trailblazer clone. I saw one yesterday, I can't figure out which it looks like more: a minivan or a Trailblazer stretched by an aftermarket company. Either way it looks like it could snap in the middle.
  • bawbcatbawbcat Member Posts: 118
    Curiously, if you look at the pictures in the Ebay listing that I referenced earlier, it clearly has a manual transmission. The rear glass also appears to have the "Torque On Demand" label, and it looks like ther is a "4WD" button on the dash in the usual location. Does the part-time system use a switch to engage, or do you have to pull the lever? In any case, it looks like this vehicle may have had some parts swapped.
  • leedavidyoungleedavidyoung Member Posts: 102
    I have followed this message board for some time and I am very impressed with the passion shown for our beloved troopers. My first trooper was an '86. I bought it new and put 190K high school and college (i. e. extremely hard) miles on it. To this day I cannot drive past an '86 for sale without the sudden urge to whip out the check book.

    Currently I drive a '99 S with a 5-speed. This trooper is a daily commuter and a weekend trail-rider. I would appreciate any input or advice on the following:

    Would I be better off doing a complete 2" lift kit vs. rear spring replacement and cranked torsion bars?
    What is a good tire size to combine with this lift?
    Should I stick with the current factory 5 spoke wheels or consider upgrading them as well.
    Keeping in mind that this is a daily driver, how much will a 2" lift effect on-road manners.
    I would love to hear examples of tire size & lift heights that members feel offer the best of both worlds.
  • pschnalzpschnalz Member Posts: 1
    After an unsuccessful try at Helm Inc, I contacted Isuzu USA concerning shop manuals for
    94 troopers. Apparently, they have stoppped 'mass publishing' these manuals, but for $150 they'd print a special order manual. Although, Helm Inc does stock a manual for 95 troopers.
    My question: What are all changes between 94-95 on the Trooper LS 3.2L.
    Advanced thanks...........pschnalz
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    95.5 brought in OBD or OBDII so that would have some differences. Also depends on the DOHC v. SOHC engines.

    -mike
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I'm not sure there is a front lift kit out there for the trooper? I did the rear 2" OME springs and cranked my T-bars. I'm going to be replaceing them with sway-away t-bars soon which should lessen body roll. I noticed a slight hit in handling with stock tires from before lift to after lift. Now that I have the 275-70-16s on there it's pretty much back to stock handling with the lift, poly bushings on the sway bars and the wider tires.

    -mike
  • mkayemkaye Member Posts: 184
    Yes, in 96 and after the part-time system went with a push button on the dash to actuate. The lever is def. a part-time, shifts from 4hi to 4lo. Also, the dash pic, there is no TOD display to the left, there are normal gauges, so again, part-time system. I'm curious if the TOD could even operate with the manual. Every time you put in the clutch, the torque needs would suddenly vary.

    The pics look to be in a body-shop. If it was rear-ended, likely the doors were replaced and the TOD sticker is from the donor vehicle with TOD. The seller may not be aware of that or can be trying to slip something by. One might email the seller for more info.


    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1829925815


    The pedigree looks off. Sounds like a case of buyer beware. Don't forget, 5 speeds have far lower resale values vs. automatics in any given vehicle. There may be a $1,000+ difference even in resale values.

    Carfax.com reveals some info, what I don't know:
    VIN: JACDJ58X1X7910673
    Year/Make/Model: 1999 ISUZU TROOPER S
    Body Style: 4 Dr. Wagon/Sport Utility
    Engine Type: 3.5L V6 DFI DOHC
    Manufactured In: JAPAN
    Search Results: 5 records found in our database


    IMPORTANT! The 5 records on this 1999 ISUZU TROOPER S will confirm a clean history or uncover potential problems. Find out by ordering the complete CARFAX Vehicle History Report.

  • jimmyp1jimmyp1 Member Posts: 640
    that place is just minutes from my house. I could go look for signs of repairs, etc., and really put the heat on him for why the TOD stickers are there. It could be innocent enough, I have WRX wheels on my Subaru Legacy (but I wouldn't try to sell it as a WRX! :) )

    Jim
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Turbo + WRX wheels is close to a WRX :)

    -mike
  • jimmyp1jimmyp1 Member Posts: 640
    my profile on iClub calls my car "WRX's daddy"

    :)

    Jim
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Actually it could be the grandmother of the WRX. I'd guess that the SVX and Legacy turbo are the parents of the 2.5RS, and both those are the children of the RX and XT6 :)

    -mike
  • jimmyp1jimmyp1 Member Posts: 640
    I didn't want to get over the average WRX owner's head.....:)

    Jim
  • texasappraisertexasappraiser Member Posts: 16
    I am in the market for a 98-99 Trooper. I have owned many cars and plenty of both kinds of transmissions. Is there anything I should know about the Trooper transmissions. I suppose if I find a good candidate, I may find my choice made for me. But is there anything I should know as far as problems with reliability with either tranny? Thanks, Lance.
  • bawbcatbawbcat Member Posts: 118
    Jimmyp1,
    Thanks much for the kind offer to check out that Trooper from Ebay, but I'm going to pass on that one.

    Changing the subject, I'd like to expand on texasappraiser's question about auto vs manual transmission. I'd be interested to hear general opinions on which transmission you would prefer in a 98+ trooper and why?

    Thanks!
  • dielectric7bbdielectric7bb Member Posts: 324
    Reading off of the UK website, the manual tranny has a 0-100kmh (62mph) of 11.8s and the auto does it in 9.6. http://www.isuzu.co.uk/models/specs/perf.htm


    So the manual isn't faster. I doubt if a mileage difference would be noticeable on these rigs. The only area that a manual has left to excel in is engine brake, which not many people use/need in the first place. A manual is probably better for descending steep hills, but an auto is better for ascending steep hills. The automatic's reverse gear is a little too high for my taste. I wish it were lower, but if I really need it to be lower, I just throw it into low range. The auto is pretty much bullet proof, and I presume the manual is the same.


    The thing about the newer automatic trannys is there is no dip stick. Even when they did have dip sticks, you had to drive the Trooper around in order to check it as per the manual. I say go for the auto.

  • savvas_esavvas_e Member Posts: 347
    I really think that it is personal preference and whether or not TOD is important to you. Mine is auto, and I really don't ever feel that I need a manual. I have driven the 3.5V6 with a manual. There is somewhat better response than the auto, but not that much.

    For me, TOD is an important factor and that would probably cement the choice for me.

    Longer term, I don't want to have clutch replacement hassles. Especially if transfer case needs removing. Generally speaking, when properly maintained, an auto should last just as well as a manual tranny.
  • savvas_esavvas_e Member Posts: 347
    I didn't think the manual would get to 100km/h any slower than the auto. The gear shifts aren't that long as to slow progress by that much.

    Either they get a different manual tranny or ratios (unlikely), or the acceleration figures were taken during a pleasant sunday afternoon drive!
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Well for towing and off-road the AT is much better. My guess is that 80% of the Troopers sold since 92 when they got the GM 4L30(iirc that is the #) automatic tranny. I haven't seen any major complaints of the tranny in about 10 years of sales so that has to be worth something for reliability. The MT gives you PT 4wd so for that reason alone I'd go with the AT to get TOD. Also since there are so few MTs out there, my guess is that replacement parts would be scarce.

    -mike
  • seanreidseanreid Member Posts: 152
    Any thoughts welcome on the following:

    I went to look at a 2001 Trooper S which is being sold by a private owner with about 25,000 miles on it. It's an auto/TOD. The vehicle is nearly immaculate but he had advertised it as an LS which is what he was apparently told it was when he bought it last fall from a dealer. I believe it was an honest mistake and that this guy, who seems honest and straightforward, isn't very familiar with Troopers. His other vehicles are a Dodge Grand Caravan and a 7-series BMW. The front alignment is off slightly (which he's having fixed this week) and the TOD system indicator would only flash when it was "engaged" (and the front wheels didn't engage). (Any guesses as to why?) He's having that repaired this week also. So, the car has about 25,000 miles basic warranty left and is in excellent shape other than the TOD malfunction and the slight front end misalignment. Tires look good but do I recall correctly that a slight difference in the tire diameters can interfere with TOD? These tires are all same model and same size and seemed to have about the same wear. Maybe not... He was asking $15,800 and I offered $15,000 which I think he's going to accept. What do you think? Having a sunroof put in is going to cost me an additional $1000 or so but it is a 2001...Has anyone on the list put an aftermarket sunroof on a Trooper? Any tips? To my knowledge, Webasto-Hollandia is better made than ASC? Is there any roof interference from a structural beam? Is the stock (LS, etc.) roof reinforced when the OEM sunroof is put in?

    Sean
  • jimmyp1jimmyp1 Member Posts: 640
    MT/AT - my basic rule of thumb, over 200 hp = auto, under = manual. Classic examples are Suburbans and Trooper, I would only get A/T. Pathfinder and Forerunner (especially one or two generations ago), I would only get M/T.

    Seanreid - You may indeed have found a great deal, BUT a few red flags go up in my head. Weird dash lights and alignment issue at only 25k COULD mean front end damage that's (almost) been repaired. The LS/S mixup, I don't buy it, unless he's just going by what a son or daughter told him the specs were. A guy who owns a 7 series BMW usually knows these things. He also has a strange mix of cars, IMHO. Could he be a guy who repairs damaged cars himself? I guess paperwork could answer a lot of these questions, but don't give in to charisma. Those Carfax accounts seem to be valuable. Try a limited search on that.

    Jim
  • seanreidseanreid Member Posts: 152
    Jim,

    Thanks for the reply. The alignment issue is minor, I noticed it because of a slightly uneven wear pattern on the front tires but 25,000 miles of New England roads can throw off the alignment on anything. It just barely pulls to the right. I'm planning to run a CarFax but I'll bet it comes up clean.

    The seller isn't so much charismatic as meticulous, it would seem. The interior is perfect and the exterior is almost perfect. I viewed the car at his fairly luxurious home and I think he's just a Yuppy, nothing worse. I would be shocked if he had the mechanical skills necessary to rebuild cars. As far as the mix of cars, the minivan is apparently his wife's daily driver, the bimmer is his pride and joy and the Trooper was bought as a winter car. That all makes sense to me. The TOD problem is wierd though. As for his honesty regarding mixing up S and LS - hard to say. But the price is fair for an S in good shape. Thanks again for replying. Given that the truck checks out, does the price sound good to you?

    Sean
  • jimmyp1jimmyp1 Member Posts: 640
    does seem good, very good ($15k, that is). I bought my 1998 S in April of 1999, and I paid 19k. Mine had 17k miles on it. Sounds like you're doing all the right things. The one thing that still doesn't jive in my mind is, if he's that meticulous, why the LS/S mixup? But, being face to face is much better than me typing down here in Texas, so, go with your gut in the end. Good luck.

    Jim
  • seanreidseanreid Member Posts: 152
    When I first told him it was an "S" he seemed genuinely surprised and then went to the glovebox to look through the various dealership papers to see where they had told him "LS". Nothing said LS, not surprisingly. He bought it from a Ford dealer I think who may have mislead him or just been ignorant. He, the seller, had thought that the S was a base model and the LS had TOD plus other goodies. But, this is an enthusiast list we're posting on and I think he saw the Trooper mostly as a reliable appliance and so the nuances of model levels may have escaped him. Either way, he's pricing at "S" level so...What I liked is that when I got home tonight, he'd left two messages. The first said that he'd tried to get the truck into his usual dealer Thursday to address the issues with it but couldn't get in 'till next Tues. In the next message, he had tried a different dealer and got an appointment for this week. (I'm going a bit overboard on detail aren't I?) As much as we like these Troopers, they're slow sellers and I think he's glad to have a buyer. I can sympathize as I'm having no luck selling a 1998 RAV4 in excellent condition even at below book. 1:22...I better get some sleep. Thanks for the posts.
    S
  • savvas_esavvas_e Member Posts: 347
    Sean,

    Try shifting the H-4L lever into 4L and back to H again, while in Park or Neutral of course. It may not be sitting in H properly.

    I've seen that once with mine, and was surprised that the car was able to move in this state. The indicators flashed and the word AUTO wouldn't illuminate, however I still had 2WD and was able to move normally.

    As for alignment ... it doesn't seem to be an unusual story. Should be easily fixed.
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