Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Isuzu Trooper

19798100102103233

Comments

  • breakorbreakor Member Posts: 398
    This is my first high-tech engine so the valve shim approach is still new to me. In my limited research however it sure seems like this is a needed service that cannot be put off to anywhere near 200k. For example this quote from a Taurus SHO site - "I cannot stress this enough. The valves must be adjusted at 60K, not for clearance, but for the life of the shims and the cams. Too many times, I have found worn shims and worn cam lobes that could have been avoided by doing the maintenance at the right time." Here is the link - http://www.shotimes.com/SHO3valvelash.html


    Since you obviously have much more knowledge about this topic, what makes the Isuzu design so much more durable than the SHO's Yamaha engine? Or, am I just being paranoid/falling for internet based shop propoganda?

  • troop2shostroop2shos Member Posts: 235
    I posted a long response but to your question but it might not have come through - will try to respond later if it doesn't make it - have to go.
    L8tr,
  • marty2marty2 Member Posts: 11
    Hi,Everybody

    Back awhile I left a message about my daughters 00 trooper, 59,000 k using oil 1/2 qt. 100 mi. No leaks, dealer is installing a new motor. This week.
    Marty
  • troop2shostroop2shos Member Posts: 235
    I'll try to be more brief on this second post - not that you saw the 1st. :)

    I own a '93 3.2L V-6 Gen II SHO ATX w/ 138k miles & a '98 3.4L V-8 Gen III SHO ATX at 60k. Both twin-cam engines require a valve shim check / adjustment at 100k. To my knowledge, my Gen II has never had the shims checked & I'm not planning to look at them anytime soon. The V-8's are prone to cam failure w/ its bad swaged sprocket design prior to the required valve adjustment. I'll let my Ford ESP handle the $8k - $20k for the repair / replacement when valves meet pistons (the V-6 Yamaha is a non-interference design :).

    The full Yamaha V-6 in the SHO is one fine engine & one of the best I've driven hard - near redline often. The link you refer to on the SHOtimes site applies to all Gen I & Gen II 3.0L Yamaha engines equipped w/ a MTX (manual transaxle) & requires a timing belt change at 60k, also - the ATX's have a hydraulic tensioner which lengthens the belt change-out to 100k. Doug is SHO guru mechanic, who has his own shop near Atlanta, made that observation / comment w/ some merit on performing the 60k maintenance on schedule w/ the MTX vehicles. However, many MTX's have gone 75k+ before the checks were made & found no issues. But again, an ATX usually doesn't see the frequent & sustained high RPM's as w/ a manual tranny - there is less wear. 3k oil & filter changes are known to extend the life of the shims, cams, etc. as opposed to 5k - 7.5k+ change-outs on dino juice.

    Many reports have come in on ATX equipped SHO's that their shims did not need any adjustment or replacement, nor had any wear after 150k+ w/ proper maintenance...& they're driven hard. Similar reports have come from our local SHO club, as well, just to see. Some owners have gone ahead & either flipped the shims over if there was any signs of minor wear or replaced shims to meet the middle of the tolerance spec while they had the intake & valve covers off. A SHO shim kit w/ tools runs about $200 for the DIY. Dealer's want $900+ to check & replace shims. Some SHO specialty shops only charge around $600 w/ additional services performed. The shim checks on a Trooper would appear to be much easier to perform than on a SHO.

    I'm not saying that it's not wise to check the adjustment - there could be warranty problems if the maintenance schedule is not followed. I am just saying that the 60k could be overkill in a Trooper w/ an automatic tranny & in an engine that is well maintained. 60k probably covers the bases for those who greatly extend maintenance intervals or maybe the shims are too soft. Anyone on the list had their's checked to advise?

    DOHC's from the 50's & 60's usually required a much shorter timeframe for shim replacement.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    SHO = sports car engine
    Isuzu = TRUCK engine

    Big difference in intended usage. :)

    -mike
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Just got finished towing 5500lb car trailer 300+ miles. Have to say that the trooper handled it like a dream. More later.

    -mike
  • troop2shostroop2shos Member Posts: 235
    True, but my old TR-3A & TR-4A sure made good use of its tractor based engine - never failed me once... :)
  • breakorbreakor Member Posts: 398
    I appreciated your knowledgable and informative posts as like I said shims and valves is a new one on me.
  • scott165scott165 Member Posts: 1
    FYI - There is an Isuzu Trooper car cover on www.ebay.com bought from www.calcarcover.com for $200, for bid right now about $50! Ebay.com, search for "Isuzu Trooper Car Cover"
  • blaha1blaha1 Member Posts: 1
    Hi Group, I'm new to this board but have been reading it since I bought my 99 Trooper. I have made all the upgrades that this board has sugested as far as tires, shocks, and springs. My question is on gas milage and towing. First gas milage is 12 to 13 MPG on trips or in the city. Is this normal. Second I pull a center console boat which seem to catch a lot of wind. Should I pull it in drive with the power switch on or off, or should I pull it in 3rd gear. Please advise before I destroy the transmision. (Auto)
    Thanks for your response.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I did some extensive towing over the weekend. Here is my suggestions.

    Hills: Tow in 3rd or in D with the power button engaged. If you see it switching between 3-4 often then drop it to 3 so that it isn't hunting for gears

    Interstate: Tow in D without the Power button. Make sure to get a good running start for hills. Yesterday I kept the 5500lb trailer going with med load in the vehicle at about 70-80mph with it dropping to 60mph on upslopes.

    The key to towing is to make sure that the AT isn't shifting often. If it is you need to drop to a lower gear. The constant shifting heats up the AT and eventually burns it out. If you can cruise on the highway with it in D w/o it downshifting a lot, then you are golden.

    I found that the Rancho 9000s set to 5+ in the rear and the OME springs helped out with towing 1000x better than my stock setup. I noticed that when I had the shocks set to 3 in the rear that the 5500lb load didn't like that at all. The other key is to make sure your trailer is properly loaded. I've found that towing a subaru on a Uhaul car-transporter that backing the car on produced a much better handling package than nose-in. My cousin's boat that I towed while on vacation was set perfectly for the trailer and that package weighted about 3000lbs.

    -mike
  • savvas_esavvas_e Member Posts: 347
    I don't know if this question is relevant to you guys, but here I go anyway.

    In Australia, the Jackaroo has H4 headlight bulbs, but the same crappy reflector setup as the Trooper. Has anyone tried Narva +30 bulbs in a Trooper? They are supposed to output 30% more light than standard on low bean and 20% more on high beam, with the same power consumption.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    But I run 80/100w bulbs in mine. They barely help but the price is the same so I got em. I run Hella 80/100w bulbs and H3 100w fogs. The lenses and reflectors just suck IMHO.

    -mike
  • savvas_esavvas_e Member Posts: 347
    Mike... Have you seen the optional projector style headlights the Japanese can get on the Bighorn? I wonder if they're any good.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I've only seen em in the pics on my website. Haven't seen em in real life but my guess is that they'd be muchbetter. For the $ though, I opted just to get the Hella 4000s, no more light problems :)

    -mike
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    I upgraded to the sylvania 9004 "XV" bulbs. Supposedly 10% brighter? They are better than stock, much whiter, and seem to be a little brighter. Someone looking for a quick upgrade this is easy and only $10 a bulb. After doing research, I didn't think the gain from $60 bulbs would be enough to warrant the purchase.

    I augment my stock lights with 130W IPF 800 lights. Great offroad...too powerful for anything other than remote country roads.
  • tkevinblanctkevinblanc Member Posts: 356
    A local shop, who I trust, has five Michelin LTX M/S for sale for $300. They were on a customer's car for a week, then the customer decided he wanted gnarlier looking tires, so the shop struck a deal with him. But they are 255/16s (not 245/16, standard). Does anyone see a problem with using these different profile tires?
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    What is the aspect ratio on them? They might be too small for our trucks actually.

    I run 275-70-16s.

    -mike
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Yep I ran $10 cheezy blue bulbs til one blew up this week, then I stuck in my old set of PIAA 9004s which are not much better. I have the Hella 4000s wired up to go on with the High beams.

    -mike
  • leedavidyoungleedavidyoung Member Posts: 102
    I currently run 255-70-R16's with no problem. I feel like the ride improved with the size change from stock. Radius increase is only .2 inches, speedometer is off by less than 2%. I agree with Paison on aspect ratio. Most members on this site have 70's or 75's.
  • tkevinblanctkevinblanc Member Posts: 356
    They are 255/70/R16s. Sorry. Forgot to put that in.

    What do those two numbers (255, 70) mean? I guess I should know this...
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    255 = width

    70 = aspect ratio

    16 = rim size


    so to get the sidewall size you take 255mm x .70, that gives you how big the sidewall is in mm.


    A great calculator for figuring out how "off" your tires will be can be found at http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html


    -mike

  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    I did a speedometer calibration with a measured distance of a mile and a measured time on a stopwatch when the tires were new. My Trooper's speedometer is correct with the 255/70/16s. Maybe that is unusual maybe not.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    it's supposed to be 1.9% slower on the reading than you are actually going. That isn't a big enough difference for a stopwatch to really pickup. At 50mph that would be less than 1mph. Also most speedos read on the higher side to begin with so putting bigger tires would bring it more into alignment with actual speed.

    -mike
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    I want to figure out the total cost of swapping out my 1995.5 Trooper for a 2002 now compared to doing it 3 to 5 years from now.

    So, my 1995 has 127K miles or so. Timing belt was done at 60K and 85K due to bad tensioner, so nexttiming belt is due at 150K or so. Along with that will be new water pump and tensioner. Maybe $400 to do this.

    Other maintenance is taken care of already oils greases etc...

    What about exhaust systems? My 1st Trooper a 1984 was on its second catalytic converter and third muffler at 200K miles. My 1995 exhaust looks pretty good considering the miles and years, but when is the exhaust normally expected to wear out on a 1995 Trooper? Has anyone replaced an exhaust system because of the original wearing out?

    I can't think of any other expensive items to need repair between now and 200K miles on my 1995. Can you?

    Buying a 2002 might save me $1000 over the next 4 years in timing belt, exhaust, and misc items like extra oil changes for ticking elimination.

    Edmunds says my 1995.5 Trooper should sell for $6500.

    New Trooper-S will be around $22000. So cost of going to the new one will be 22000 - 6500 - 1000 = $14500.

    Or average price on AutoTrader is $8000, so the cost of getting a new 2002 might be as low as $13000.

    Any other ideas to make this sound more attractive to my wife?

    If I get a new 2002 Trooper I will have to drive it at least as long as I have driven my 1995. What are the chances of a "better than a Trooper" vehicle comming out in the next 7 years?
  • savvas_esavvas_e Member Posts: 347
    Is the exhaust system stainless steel in the 95.5? If so, I'd imagine that it should be trouble free for a very long time. Upto 20 years maybe? Not sure about the cat, though. I'd be interested in hearing from others if that's not the case.

    My second last car was a 84 Holden Commodore and it went through two exhausts in the 9 years I had it. My 95 Holden Commodore, which is now my in-laws car, has a stainless steel system and is still on its original exhaust with no sign of it giving up.

    Will there be a "better than Trooper" SUV in the next 7 years? I should hope so! I'd hate to get to 2006, which is my planned change over year, and have to DOWNGRADE to a new vehicle.
  • breakorbreakor Member Posts: 398
    If you do not make the swap now you will have spent about $1000 more (vs. a new Trooper) in 7 years per your numbers. I kind of doubt that as the new one will cost more to insure. But using your numbers, in 7 years the Trooper might be worth what a couple of thousand? So in that case it costs you $1 + (6.5-2) = $5.5K for the next 7 years. You could lose close to that in the first year or two owning a new Trooper.

    My advice is if isn't broke, don't trade it in.
  • keepontroopinkeepontroopin Member Posts: 297
    Check it out:


    http://home.islandia.is/lr/images/Ólafsfjarðartrooper.jpg

  • tkevinblanctkevinblanc Member Posts: 356
    I mean, if she won't let you trade the Trooper...
  • savvas_esavvas_e Member Posts: 347
    Love the big flares and wheels!
  • savvas_esavvas_e Member Posts: 347
    I had a think about what I really want to do with my car. Here's the list -

    * Rancho RS/9000 shocks
    * Ultimate Suspensions torsion bars and long travel coils
    * 4WD Systems 133litre fuel tank
    * Pirelli Scorpion Zero 285/60R17 tyres on 17" rims for onroad use
    * Michelin LTX A/T 265/75R16 tyres on standard rims for offroad use
    * ECB Series 2 Flash Bar with integrated fog lamps (the lamps will need to be custom fitted)
    * ECB Series 3 Tube side rails
    * IPF 800 driving lights
    * ARB front air locker & chassis mounted compressor
    * Garland exhaust/intake upgrade

    Total $9000AUS. I don't think I can get this past the domestic accountant.

    Oh well, start cutting back the list!
  • kevtomkevtom Member Posts: 11
    Been quoted a walkout price (inc. tax, tag, title) of 27000 for a white LS 4x4. Kinda concerned about the brightness of this color like when we're camping and I look at this big white glowing beast in the woods. Is it a calling beacon for others who see it?

    Got pre-purchase jitters and wanted to know if others had a white one? I was also quoted a walkout price of 24500 for a grey S 4x4 that I'm considering. This is in the Atlanta area...do these prices sound fair?

    Thanks.
  • radman6radman6 Member Posts: 81
    Our 2000S Trooper is white and I've found white has a few advantages over other colors. Surprisingly it hides dirt and waterspots fairly well. It's pretty visible when driving at dawn and dusk. It's easy to find in the moonlight when you're camping and need to get something out of it in the middle of the night. And, when you come back from a long hike in the woods - you can spot it. Can't tell you how many times I've misplaced vehicles in the woods and had a hard time finding them when I got back. White is also one of the easiest colors to match after a repair and it hides small imperfections well. White is easy to match when buying accessories. Black bumpers, brushguards, and trailer hitches all look great with white. White paint also seems to hold up better in the sun than other colors - especially dark metallics.

    The only disadvantage of white in this area (Pacific Northwest) is that it's hard to see in snow storm. I make sure my lights are on when the visibility is bad.
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    One good reason is because you won't be able to in a year. Pretty soon the stock of new Trooper's will be gone. Then that will be that. If you wait much longer, you will be paying someone like me top dollar for my used 1999! (since it will be a classic)
  • trooperriptrooperrip Member Posts: 1
    We currently have a '99 LS Trooper in excellent condition. Its our second one, and we are big fans. Don't care about bigger engines or 16 more inches of sheet metal. We're considering taking advantage of the 0% financing and upgrading to an '02 Trooper.
    Need opinions: Is is a mistake to buy the last model year of a car? Are we better-off looking at Toyos or Mitsus?
    If we do go for a new Trooper, should we expect to be able to get a great deal? The dealers should be looking to liquidate them at this point, right?
    Any help/suggestions/opinions appreciated.
    TrooperRIP
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    The 02s are low in quantity so don't expect any deals better than the $4K of the other years. The last year of the Trooper should be fine, heck they've had 10 years to tweak everything :)

    -mike
  • cracoviancracovian Member Posts: 337
    I just went to http://www.isuzudealers.com/ and I looked at the prices they have listed on Troopers in Illinois. I was shocked to see such a huge supply of 4x4 "S" models selling for $20,495 - that's less than any 2x4 "S" in Georgia! All other states have ridiculously high prices and very few of the trucks in stock.
  • tkevinblanctkevinblanc Member Posts: 356
    Does anyone have any suggestions for a hitch mounted bike rack?


    My buddy has an Acura Trooper with a factory hitch, He uses this Reese rack.


    http://www.reesehitch.com/bike_4_carrier.html


    It works well on his Acura Trooper, but I have to remove the spare tire cover for it to clear, and if I shake the rack around, it hits the spare wheel.


    Has anyone else used a different hitch mounted bike rack?


    I'm considering this Nashbar one:


    http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?category=71&subcategory=1019&brand=&sku=6416&storetype=&estoreid=


    But I'd need a receiver extension so the hitch will clear the spare tire, like this one:


    http://www.hitchesonline.com/drawbars/special_mount_main.htm#EXTENSION


    Any other ideas? Thanks.

  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    I would also look into thule and yakima. They offer quality stuff that is available all over and replacement parts are readily available.
  • tkevinblanctkevinblanc Member Posts: 356
    Yes, they do have nice quality stuff. At about three or four times the price (hard to justify when you're going to use it four times a year), and you still run into the "won't fit with that big spare tire" issue. They are nice, though. I like that $350 Thule one that has the gas charged shock to aid you in lowering and raising the rack with the bikes on it so you can get to your trunk. Well, you still couldn't open the Trooper door, but that's another story. :0)

    Thanks for the input.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    If it's a "real" truck it should have "real" raingutters so you can put 2x4's up there bolted onto your Quik-n-Easy racks. Cheap and bombproof. I had one set that lasted 25 years, before I ran out of cars with rain gutters.

    /sigh

    Steve
    Host
    SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
  • kevtomkevtom Member Posts: 11
    Going to negotiate with the dealer tomorrow on the white 4x4 LS. Been looking today at aftermarket parts instead of getting the dealer to install them (roof rack, hitch, bike mount) and the choices seem limited for the 02 model. Will parts for 01 or earlier fit the 02?

    Thanks.
  • kevtomkevtom Member Posts: 11
    Following up on my search for 02 Trooper accessories, I could not help but notice offerings for the Xterra. What are the fundamental/mechanical differences between the two? Other than the hype surrounding the Xterra, is it competitive to the Trooper?

    Questions I'd rather have answered here before laying down my cold cash at a dealer.

    Thanks again.

    kev
  • savvas_esavvas_e Member Posts: 347
    I have seen different type of bike carriers that bolt to the spare tyre mount, over the spare tyre. It means you would have to lose the tyre cover while it's mounted, but then again you can open the back doors while the bikes are mounted on the carrier.

    Thule makes one called the "Thule Raider Bike 992" that can carry two bikes.

    I think they are more expensive than hitch-mounted types. Though, to my way of thinking they are more practical.
  • kevtomkevtom Member Posts: 11
    I found the Thule spare tire mount that you mentioned sawas_e. Also found the vendor link on paisan's web page that I totally overlooked earlier. The latest year listed for some parts at vendor's sites are 01 so I assume they will fit a 02 model. Thanks for that resource paisan.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Anything 98-02 fits in fact most of the 92-02 fits.

    For a hitch get the hidden hitch from JC Whitney, $125 shipped IIRC and it's about 1/2 hr install.

    -mike
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Xterra is in a totally different class. It's much much smaller. Has a much weaker engine. Has rear leaf springs. isn't as good on or offroad. Almost no luxury items on the Xterra. The X is much more expensive for what you get. Not that the X is bad, just it's totally different. The Toyota Land Cruiser is closer to a Trooper than the X.

    -mike
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    The Xterra is about style, not function. The Trooper is totally opposite. As paisan said, a much smaller vehicle. The engine is a joke, unless you spring for the supercharged version. Even then, it's old technology. And the prices are way too high for what you get.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    It stays cooler than the darker-colored vehicles on sunny days.
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    I loaded up my thule roof rack last night. 2 bikes and a cargo box. I can fit a good amount up there...however, it is a huge pain loading everything up. I use a ladder to mount the rack gear.

    I have thought about a carrier off the back, either spare tire or hitch mounted? I like the roof because it puts more weight over all the wheels, putting some of it on the front suspension as well. I think a rear mounted rack will cause more drag on the rear when fully loaded (I realize the roof raises the center of gravity even more).

    One of my major issues with the trooper is that it is rated at just under 1000lbs cargo capacity. 2 bikes, gear, clothing and 4 adults you are way over that. I have slated to upgrade to the OME springs at some point to address this issue. Hopefully the progressive rate will allow for more cargo weight capacity.
Sign In or Register to comment.