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Comments
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Revo looks more agressive, is not quite ans quiet as the HL, but much quieter than any AT tire I have experienced. Revo has great handling, but slightly more squishy in hard turns due to more tread flex I think. I have not tried to get stuck but the Revo were excellent in snow up North, way way better than my brother in law's Suburban with his original tires.
Anyway, I have two questions: Is it normal for my 39k 2001 LS to have some light ticking for a few minutes each morning on warm-up? And secondly, has anyone actually seen their oil light work independently of start up? A post at car connection about a blown '01 engine with no low oil warning spooked me, as did my own experience of a forgetful mechanic leaving my filler cap off and me not realizing it until it needed 4 qts of oil. My light never came on. By the way, the slight ticking I referred to up front was there before the oil incident.
Thanks.
Are you using Fram oil filters? If so this quote about them may be of interest - "If you have a noisy valve train at startup, this filter is likely the cause." This post is from here - http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/oil_filter_study/
My dealer says that I need to check the oil level very carefully because the lamp doesn't luminous if the oil is not enough even.
I need to find a new dealer. Not that I am too concerned about the idle problem, since it is probably a easy fix, but the repeat trips for everything is starting to get annoying.
On a related note...They inspected my steering and couldn't find anything wrong...other than "normal wear". I guess as long as they certify it as OK, what else can I do. I found related posts on 4x4wire regarding the very same "click" or "clunk" you can feel on center steering, all with about the same dealership results.
I'm gonna have Autozone pull my code before my trip to the stealer tomorrow.
IIRC, planetisuzu have an article on how to tighten the steering system;might not be the answer but worth checking it out.
I assume it is inside the worm gear because they say they cannot find anything.
The code was cleared by another mechanic, however "440" is usually a loose gas cap so it doesn't tell them much. My service guy took it to lunch today, so maybe he will get stranded and need a tow :-)
They don't think there was anything else wrong because the computer didn't register any other problems? So they cleaned it and told me that if it happens again they will replace it. I am not happy about the prospects of going back, however it sounds reasonable.
P0171 - Fuel Trim System Lean Bank 1
P0174 - " " " " " 2
AZ interpreted them as oxygen sensors but I know it's the IMGs.
P0402 - EGR Excessive Flow Detected
P1401 - EGR Valve Stuck Closed
So it seems that I have a defective EGR valve, and the shop I'm going to tomorrow have it on stock($125). Part of the procedure when replacing the valve is to clean carbon/soot out of the egr tube.
I originaly thought that the CEL is only giving the codes for the leak but the EGR system came to play when trying to diagnose oil consumption concern.
Did your dealer found a code that lead them to the IAC valve? There are 4 codes that has IAC.
Make sure the shop checks your PCV as a fouled one can make your EGR more likely to foul. Also, to further try and start with as clean a slate as possible, I suggest you run a bottle or two of Techron after the EGR is cleaned (or replaced if necessary). You might also then change your oil, again to try and flush any remaining junk out of the engine.
The oem pcv valve was replaced(tho it seems to be working fine) not too long ago but I am going to have it checked and replaced as necessary.
I had run Auto-Rx(engine cleaner) treatments on the engine and continuing with the maintenance doze until the third and last bottle is spent. I had recently run an oil anlysis and the oil/wear seems good. I am thinking of running another cleaner(Neutra) 300-500 miles prior to oil change to flush any additional sludge/dirt. I might use Techron on the fuel as suggested or just use Neutra as well.
-mike
So total damage was $170, all labor since I supplied the gaskets.
Back to idle surge...I got on the road to drive back home and about 10 minutes into the trip the truck stalled and I go a CEL. By this point both my kids were screaming...one with me and one with my wife...they love the trip back and forth to this place.
I have to go through all this hassle again...I either need better service or I am going to go buy a toyota truck. Now they said they inspected the steering...they also said they fixed the idle problem...how am I to believe they did anything.
Well I am venting now...I will post any technical follow-ups as they come in...at least my truck "looks" nice.
Tom
I think preventing carbon formation is the key to low oil usage in the 3.5 engine. If so, I would also be careful about using over 87 octane (and because the owner's manual says 87 is fine and costs less). The potential for overly high octane gas to form carbon just isn't worth the risk, at least in my way of thinking.
This is just my take so use the appropriate dosage of salt.
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That's my 2 cents, salt it well.
Here is a good post from some newspaper "expert" explaining it -
"The primary characteristic of higher-octane fuels is longer hydrocarbon molecules. These are stabler and more difficult to ignite, but when they do ignite they burn slower, producing higher cylinder pressures. To capitalize on higher-octane fuel, the engine must be set up with more compression and in many cases, more ignition timing.
Flipping the coin, what happens when higher-octane fuel is used in a lower-compression engine? No great harm here, but there is the potential for this fuel to leave carbon deposits in the engine." For the complete post look here -http://www.startribune.com/stories/435/1622112.html
While I am at it here is a post about oil usage from another webboard. Maybe the guy knows what he is talking about, maybe not. "A very likely cause of oil consumption these days in cars that don't have really high mileage is the oil rings stuck in the ring groove from baked on carbon. Engine makers have been designing engines with shorter piston skirts for several reasons, and one result is that the oil rings are closer to the hot piston crown. The oil gets cooked in the ring groove oil drain holes and ring grooves, the oil rings can't do their job, and the engine burns oil." This is from here - http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;- - f=1;t=001553
This unloved 91 Trooper can be probably had for about $2000. I drive about 15K miles a year. The 5 speed manual should help with the relative lack of power. Any one familiar with the V6/ 5 speed combo? Has 97K miles, badly faded paint. Any and all help greatly appreciated.
I also drive like an old man and I doubt the truck knows what its power hides over 2700 RPMs... It's kind of irritating, if you ask me, to have such a new car and remember to check oil level at least three or four times between regular oil changes.
-mike
Having said that, I would also add that 4-Low felt better than TOD on sand (in my brief testing). My gut feeling (not based on experience or fact) is that if you know you need the traction, than you will be better off having the center diff locked rather than in TOD. Anyone else agree/disagree with that based on real experience?
Tom
Obviously, I did take all that into consideration when I was paying for it in the 20s, I wasn't expecting much, and I'm relatively happy with my choice. I still think that looking under the hood of a NEW, relatively modern, vehicle and adding oil between the changes is sort of ridiculous. As far as it being "bulletproof", didn't you have your share of problems and TOD warranty fixes already???
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On Isuzu industrial engines it is suggested to run them at 80% to 100% max load to break in the rings. Would pulling a trailer over a mountain 4000 to 5500 RPM break in the rings?
If you wanted Toyota quality, you would have paid 15K more for your vehicle. For the 25K I paid for mine I could not find any vehicle in the same class that will run for over 200K miles heck a smaller 4-runner at the time was way way more money.
-mike
Last time some guys and I were debating TOD @ Uwharrie, so as an act of faith in TOD I Swore I'd do the whole weekend in TOD. Sure enough I did every trail, including some moderately difficult ones in TOD.
I like the pulsing when I'm stuck in snow, cause I would just spin my wheels in 4-low, in TOD it applies the power, similar to rocking the car back and forth but you just gas it and it automatically pulses it in and out.
Just my preference though.
-mike
so I called roadside assistance. They sent some local guy out there and he pointed it out and then rotated all 4 tires. I tipped him cause it was really hot. No charge. Only time I used it before warranty ran out.
After some negotiating, I managed to get a free rental for the weekend. I am not happy at the quality of the work at this place. At least they came through on the loaner...which I think is fair since they stranded me 49 mintues from home. It is a Ford Taurus with 35K on it. It rattles, shimmies and wobbles pretty bad. Makes me appreciate my Trooper (when it runs) so much more.
A few things I have noticed. TOD doesn't dig as much, and the front stays more on top of the sand, allowing you to keep going. TOD though slips/clunks in the deep sand. There is a cyclicle clunking when you are chugging through deep sand and it is 100% activated. I think it is the clutch slipping since it doesn't do this in snow. It doesn't clunk in normal sand, just when there is a lot of resistance...a little more gas usually fixes it.
4 low digs more, so there is a little more tire spin to keep moving. Though I usually pick 4 low for most situations because it is that much more powerful.
Of course the flaw in the logic of your quote above is that octane is only ONE factor in carbon formation. In addition to the ones already noted (e.g. the condition of your oil, pcv and egr) your slow speeds, especially if done for short trips, can be another.
As to checking the rings, I assume a wet compression check compared to a dry one would be the way to go.
Check out 'break-in' on a word search. The advice there is...in the first 500 or so miles, rev the enginer hard and let it come to a low RPM quickly afterward. Do this on a continuing basis while the engine is still new. It allows the rings to swirl around and provide more even hardening of the cylinder walls as the engine wears in. Worked GREAT for my 2001 Trooper! Now I'm doing the same on a rebuilt engine on my 1988 Trooper.
Yep, we breathed new life into the 88'. I thought several weeks ago that I'd let it go and replace it, but after searching for a replacement, I decided to spend about $1700 to get this baby back on the road. It is running like a top so far, but I do have an oil leak that has to be resolved. It's in the shop now being investigated. Maybe we can squeeze another 15 years of service out of her.
On another point I checked with my tire guys at NTB about repacking the front wheel bearings - the mechanic said don't sweat it until you do the brakes and they include repacking in their front break service price when the time comes ($169). I may not wait that long since most of the mileage on my Trooper is highway and the breaks could go a long time before needing service. He said they would repack for $69 - the repack is very basic work on the Trooper - when I mentioned that the local Isuzu service department wanted $250 he shook is head.
At 39K miles I have been to the dealer once to replace the fly by wire throttle sensor - check engine light came on even though there was no indication of a problem. The Trooper is a fine vehicle even though I'd kill for a tranmission dip stick.
Is there anyway to fix this on the road? Could you spread gasket sealer around the effected area to temporarily seal it? I want to know how to fix this while on a vacation or something?
Also FWIW oil consumption on my '02 with 9,000 miles is NIL, fortunately. Wonder why all the different experiences - I gave it an easy break-in period, but other than that ...
Thanks.
Like I said before, any oil burning in a new car (excluding towing) is very irritating but I'll have to live with it. As you can imagine it is difficult to explain to my petite, pregnant wife that she has to lift the hood of the Trooper (btw. she can't) and check oil on every occasion she gets, so, I don’t share that information with her and drive the truck myself.
"Of course the flaw in the logic of your quote above is that octane is only ONE factor in carbon formation. In addition to the ones already noted (e.g. the condition of your oil, pcv and egr) your slow speeds, especially if done for short trips, can be another."
I like my Trooper a lot, enough to call me an enthusiast. But reports of engines that burn oil are disheartening.
On the other hand, my neighbor's Toyota Sienna (a few months older than my wife's Sienna) just gave it up with less than 40K on the clock. Oil sludging. No, he doesn't change his oil frequently enough: I do mine every 5K with synth. Even a company like Toyota can make an engine that is less than exemplary.
It could be worse....
My Volkswagon needs oil between changes. It travels from the container, thru the crankcase, to the cardboard on my garage floor.:(
Kevin's right no engine is flawless, so far Isuzu's is pretty solid.
Cracovian - Don't worry about a thing, you can check the oil for your wife in the evenings. Driving with a quart low on short trips won't do any damage. (Disclaimer...)
That's a lot of oil.
I think about getting the beetle for my wife (since it's the only car that she ever wanted) but that outdated gas engine is just scary - diesels are not any better either... and for what price (!) Troopers cost less...