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Isuzu Trooper

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Comments

  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    I ran a set of HL and replaced them with Revo. The HL is a touring tire. HL is OK in dirt and snow and not so good in mud. HL is very good on the road, quiet grippy great for quick stops and fast take offs without sliding or spinning the tires. HL has great handling.
    ..
    Revo looks more agressive, is not quite ans quiet as the HL, but much quieter than any AT tire I have experienced. Revo has great handling, but slightly more squishy in hard turns due to more tread flex I think. I have not tried to get stuck but the Revo were excellent in snow up North, way way better than my brother in law's Suburban with his original tires.
  • dmuzykadmuzyka Member Posts: 31
    In the newest issue of Car & Driver one featured writer predicted Isuzu will be down to only a heavy truck and diesel engine US presence within 5 years. Gulp. C&D is about the only trustworthy car rag besides Edmunds.

    Anyway, I have two questions: Is it normal for my 39k 2001 LS to have some light ticking for a few minutes each morning on warm-up? And secondly, has anyone actually seen their oil light work independently of start up? A post at car connection about a blown '01 engine with no low oil warning spooked me, as did my own experience of a forgetful mechanic leaving my filler cap off and me not realizing it until it needed 4 qts of oil. My light never came on. By the way, the slight ticking I referred to up front was there before the oil incident.

    Thanks.
  • bstone3bstone3 Member Posts: 97
    Don't know about the oil light but will check - my 01 has 37k Miles and I have always used Mobil 1 - except two oil changes ago where I thought I'd use regular Dino oil - after 3K miles I started hearing that much talked about ticking sound at idle - back in goes the Mobile 1 and end of ticking sound. I had a similar experience where Wal Mart left off my fill cap too - noticed it when I got home - Mobil 1 all over the place - luckily the cap was still sitting on the block - back to Wally World (2 miles from home) were they cleaned the engine compartment and replaced the missing oil - I now do it myself.
  • breakorbreakor Member Posts: 398
    I do not have any ticking in my 99. Nor am I aware of this being a problem with the 3.5 engines. AFAIK that is strictly a problem with the 3.2 engine. I have read several posts about low oil (so low the engines siezed) and they all reported not seeing a low oil pressure light.

    Are you using Fram oil filters? If so this quote about them may be of interest - "If you have a noisy valve train at startup, this filter is likely the cause." This post is from here - http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/oil_filter_study/
  • pinoy99pinoy99 Member Posts: 79
    Consider Yokohama Geolander A/T as a replacement -IMO they are the best truck tires.
  • dnestrdnestr Member Posts: 188
    I really doubt that the sound you hear is valve ticking. It's early for 37k, I think. My Trooper does light ticking during warm-up for a few minutes only. The sound comes from the upper part of engine. I guess, some electric device does it.

    My dealer says that I need to check the oil level very carefully because the lamp doesn't luminous if the oil is not enough even.
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    Of course it is at the dealership and they can't recreate the surge. Ugh. I asked them if they drove it? I specifically told them how to recreate it...i.e. drive it until it is warm and then come to a stop in park. The service manager said...oh, let me try that later today.

    I need to find a new dealer. Not that I am too concerned about the idle problem, since it is probably a easy fix, but the repeat trips for everything is starting to get annoying.

    On a related note...They inspected my steering and couldn't find anything wrong...other than "normal wear". I guess as long as they certify it as OK, what else can I do. I found related posts on 4x4wire regarding the very same "click" or "clunk" you can feel on center steering, all with about the same dealership results.
  • pinoy99pinoy99 Member Posts: 79
    Did the dealer ran diagnostics? Can they pull the code without the CEL being on? Since my CEL is on
    I'm gonna have Autozone pull my code before my trip to the stealer tomorrow.

    IIRC, planetisuzu have an article on how to tighten the steering system;might not be the answer but worth checking it out.
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    I have read the planet isuzu article and even had my gear tightened. I figure it is either wear in the ball bearings in the worm gear causing slop or the knuckle right above the gear with wear?

    I assume it is inside the worm gear because they say they cannot find anything.

    The code was cleared by another mechanic, however "440" is usually a loose gas cap so it doesn't tell them much. My service guy took it to lunch today, so maybe he will get stranded and need a tow :-)
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    They found it, finally...they said it looked like a clogged IAC valve. I am not exactly sure what it stands for...I assume Idle "something" control valve?

    They don't think there was anything else wrong because the computer didn't register any other problems? So they cleaned it and told me that if it happens again they will replace it. I am not happy about the prospects of going back, however it sounds reasonable.
  • pinoy99pinoy99 Member Posts: 79
    Ok, AutoZone pulled the codes on mine:
    P0171 - Fuel Trim System Lean Bank 1
    P0174 - " " " " " 2
    AZ interpreted them as oxygen sensors but I know it's the IMGs.
    P0402 - EGR Excessive Flow Detected
    P1401 - EGR Valve Stuck Closed
    So it seems that I have a defective EGR valve, and the shop I'm going to tomorrow have it on stock($125). Part of the procedure when replacing the valve is to clean carbon/soot out of the egr tube.

    I originaly thought that the CEL is only giving the codes for the leak but the EGR system came to play when trying to diagnose oil consumption concern.

    Did your dealer found a code that lead them to the IAC valve? There are 4 codes that has IAC.
  • breakorbreakor Member Posts: 398
    Even the manual only calls for it to be cleaned unless something is mechanically damaged. AFAIK such damage is very unusual.

    Make sure the shop checks your PCV as a fouled one can make your EGR more likely to foul. Also, to further try and start with as clean a slate as possible, I suggest you run a bottle or two of Techron after the EGR is cleaned (or replaced if necessary). You might also then change your oil, again to try and flush any remaining junk out of the engine.
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    No the engine was reporting no codes. Just once stopped when warm the idle would bounce several times and then normalize.
  • pinoy99pinoy99 Member Posts: 79
    Someone at the wire posted a problem with clogged egr valve, tho he was able to clean it, the unit still sticks. With the amount of mileage I have in the truck, I will just replace it. I'll get the old one to see how much gummed up it is.

    The oem pcv valve was replaced(tho it seems to be working fine) not too long ago but I am going to have it checked and replaced as necessary.

    I had run Auto-Rx(engine cleaner) treatments on the engine and continuing with the maintenance doze until the third and last bottle is spent. I had recently run an oil anlysis and the oil/wear seems good. I am thinking of running another cleaner(Neutra) 300-500 miles prior to oil change to flush any additional sludge/dirt. I might use Techron on the fuel as suggested or just use Neutra as well.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I had mine replaced early on on my truck. On my buddy's truck he recently had a CE and had his cleaned. So far it's been about 2-3K miles w/o a problem for him after cleaning it.

    -mike
  • pinoy99pinoy99 Member Posts: 79
    Ok, the shop checked the valve - functions as per specs but the egr tube is partially clogged with carbon/soot and was cleaned. IMG was indeed leaking on both sides and were replaced as well.
    So total damage was $170, all labor since I supplied the gaskets.
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    So I raced over to the dealership to meet the service manager by 6 PM to discuss my problems. I got there at 6 on the noise...after some eye rolling he stuck around and talked to me about the problems I had...he assured me the steering clunk was not a problem and that actually my steering was tighter than most 1999's...I didn't realize this was such a weak point in the truck, but apparently the recirculating ball steering while strong, has issues?

    Back to idle surge...I got on the road to drive back home and about 10 minutes into the trip the truck stalled and I go a CEL. By this point both my kids were screaming...one with me and one with my wife...they love the trip back and forth to this place.

    I have to go through all this hassle again...I either need better service or I am going to go buy a toyota truck. Now they said they inspected the steering...they also said they fixed the idle problem...how am I to believe they did anything.

    Well I am venting now...I will post any technical follow-ups as they come in...at least my truck "looks" nice.
  • pinoy99pinoy99 Member Posts: 79
    Yup, dealing with any service station is a crap shoot. I would have rather my friend's garage perform the service(I can watch while the tech do the work) but that was not possible for me this time so I went to the dealer. The manager and the service writer seems to know their stuff and my problem(bouncing idle) is definitely gone so it seems that they did the work properly. I just need to watch the oil usage to see if will drop since the EGR system is cleaner now.
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Member Posts: 377
    Anyone got a reasonably priced source for seat covers. I would like to have ISUZU cover that exactly match the gray cloth ones in my 1988 LS Trooper.
  • serranoserrano Member Posts: 107
    Not sure how the EGR valve can alter oil consumption. In my mind, those systems function independently. Can someone fill me in?

    Tom
  • breakorbreakor Member Posts: 398
    When the EGR plugs off the engine heats up. I think this has two effects. More oil is vaporized and burned off. The kicker is more carbon is formed. Depending on how much, the oil rings can stick and oil blowby can occur causing significant oil loss.

    I think preventing carbon formation is the key to low oil usage in the 3.5 engine. If so, I would also be careful about using over 87 octane (and because the owner's manual says 87 is fine and costs less). The potential for overly high octane gas to form carbon just isn't worth the risk, at least in my way of thinking.

    This is just my take so use the appropriate dosage of salt.
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    I would have expected the lower octane fuel to allow more deposits on the rings because there will be pre-ignition more often. Pre-ignition is a normal thing as the engine computer adjusts timing, but it means more blow by and I would expect that to contribute to messy rings and worn piston skirts etc... I use the higher octane because I want clean oil and I relate pre-ignition with blow-by and unwanted stuff getting into the oil.
    ..
    That's my 2 cents, salt it well.
  • breakorbreakor Member Posts: 398
    I think carbon formation is another one of those counterintuitive things. Kind of like the EGR adding hot combustion gas to cool the engine. The higher the octane for cars not designed to burn it, the more the carbon.

    Here is a good post from some newspaper "expert" explaining it -
    "The primary characteristic of higher-octane fuels is longer hydrocarbon molecules. These are stabler and more difficult to ignite, but when they do ignite they burn slower, producing higher cylinder pressures. To capitalize on higher-octane fuel, the engine must be set up with more compression and in many cases, more ignition timing.

    Flipping the coin, what happens when higher-octane fuel is used in a lower-compression engine? No great harm here, but there is the potential for this fuel to leave carbon deposits in the engine." For the complete post look here -http://www.startribune.com/stories/435/1622112.html

    While I am at it here is a post about oil usage from another webboard. Maybe the guy knows what he is talking about, maybe not. "A very likely cause of oil consumption these days in cars that don't have really high mileage is the oil rings stuck in the ring groove from baked on carbon. Engine makers have been designing engines with shorter piston skirts for several reasons, and one result is that the oil rings are closer to the hot piston crown. The oil gets cooked in the ring groove oil drain holes and ring grooves, the oil rings can't do their job, and the engine burns oil." This is from here - http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;- - f=1;t=001553
  • galant56galant56 Member Posts: 4
    This 91 Trooper has the 2.8 V6, I assume that is the longtime Chevy engine from the S-10 compact truck. Correct?
    This unloved 91 Trooper can be probably had for about $2000. I drive about 15K miles a year. The 5 speed manual should help with the relative lack of power. Any one familiar with the V6/ 5 speed combo? Has 97K miles, badly faded paint. Any and all help greatly appreciated.
  • cracoviancracovian Member Posts: 337
    My 2002 Trooper has been burning oil (half a quart here and there) since day one (17 miles) on regular gas. Therefore, I don't think it's carbon deposits I could blame it on :-(

    I also drive like an old man and I doubt the truck knows what its power hides over 2700 RPMs... It's kind of irritating, if you ask me, to have such a new car and remember to check oil level at least three or four times between regular oil changes.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Check oil every other fillup, you should be checking under your hood that often anyway. Besides I rather have to add a little oil than have my AT Blow up like Fords...

    -mike
  • cdanschwartzcdanschwartz Member Posts: 23
    I am driving from NY to MO in early July in my wife's 2001 Trooper. Hopefully, it will be reliable. If I should have to call Isuzu Roadside assistance, what can I expect?
  • bawbcatbawbcat Member Posts: 118
    There was some discussion in the past about whether TOD works in reverse or not, so I just thought I'd add a quick note confirming that TOD does work in reverse. I had the opportunity to drive on soft sand last weekend, and with TOD active I saw it light up the dash lights in reverse.

    Having said that, I would also add that 4-Low felt better than TOD on sand (in my brief testing). My gut feeling (not based on experience or fact) is that if you know you need the traction, than you will be better off having the center diff locked rather than in TOD. Anyone else agree/disagree with that based on real experience?
  • serranoserrano Member Posts: 107
    Bawbcat - Back in Feb when we had the 2 foot deep snow here in DC, I found that 4-Lo was much better than the pulsing of TOD. I would just lose a little momentum every time the front axle lost power. So I kept it in Low most of the time.

    Tom
  • cracoviancracovian Member Posts: 337
    I would never compare our Trooper to any domestic SUV (though Explorers are geting there slowly) but any other Japanese SUV should serve as the benchmark and the truck is not any better than those.

    Obviously, I did take all that into consideration when I was paying for it in the 20s, I wasn't expecting much, and I'm relatively happy with my choice. I still think that looking under the hood of a NEW, relatively modern, vehicle and adding oil between the changes is sort of ridiculous. As far as it being "bulletproof", didn't you have your share of problems and TOD warranty fixes already???
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    Oil consumption, maybe your rings have not seated all the way yet, so the engine burns oil from new. Can anyone suggest a way to make sure the rings are seated or check for it?
    ..
    On Isuzu industrial engines it is suggested to run them at 80% to 100% max load to break in the rings. Would pulling a trailer over a mountain 4000 to 5500 RPM break in the rings?
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Mostly due to my own fault, not any of the vehicle itself. I push mine to the limit daily.

    If you wanted Toyota quality, you would have paid 15K more for your vehicle. For the 25K I paid for mine I could not find any vehicle in the same class that will run for over 200K miles heck a smaller 4-runner at the time was way way more money.

    -mike
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    In snow I find it to be way way better. The only place I have found TOD not to exceed 4-low is in soft sand, and in situations where there simply wasn't enough torque and needed the extra torque.

    Last time some guys and I were debating TOD @ Uwharrie, so as an act of faith in TOD I Swore I'd do the whole weekend in TOD. Sure enough I did every trail, including some moderately difficult ones in TOD.

    I like the pulsing when I'm stuck in snow, cause I would just spin my wheels in 4-low, in TOD it applies the power, similar to rocking the car back and forth but you just gas it and it automatically pulses it in and out.

    Just my preference though.

    -mike
  • uniconunicon Member Posts: 18
    I was getting ready to leave for a x-country trip from my old house in Virginia and decided to rotate my 99 Trooper's tires. I didn't realize right-off that the hub housings were different sizes between the front and rear tires (have to have a small socket to remove them),
    so I called roadside assistance. They sent some local guy out there and he pointed it out and then rotated all 4 tires. I tipped him cause it was really hot. No charge. Only time I used it before warranty ran out.
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    Well on my second trip to the dealer, they found that it was the intake manifold gasket. I expressed my displeasure that I specifically asked them to check that before and that they probably caused it when they replaced my thermostat in January. it hasn't idled quite right since that repair.

    After some negotiating, I managed to get a free rental for the weekend. I am not happy at the quality of the work at this place. At least they came through on the loaner...which I think is fair since they stranded me 49 mintues from home. It is a Ford Taurus with 35K on it. It rattles, shimmies and wobbles pretty bad. Makes me appreciate my Trooper (when it runs) so much more.
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    I do a lot of sand driving in the summer. TOD does really well in the light stuff, and will get you through the deep stuff too. When it gets deep I put it in 4 low.

    A few things I have noticed. TOD doesn't dig as much, and the front stays more on top of the sand, allowing you to keep going. TOD though slips/clunks in the deep sand. There is a cyclicle clunking when you are chugging through deep sand and it is 100% activated. I think it is the clutch slipping since it doesn't do this in snow. It doesn't clunk in normal sand, just when there is a lot of resistance...a little more gas usually fixes it.

    4 low digs more, so there is a little more tire spin to keep moving. Though I usually pick 4 low for most situations because it is that much more powerful.
  • breakorbreakor Member Posts: 398
    "My 2002 Trooper has been burning oil (half a quart here and there) since day one (17 miles) on regular gas. Therefore, I don't think it's carbon deposits I could blame it on :-("

    Of course the flaw in the logic of your quote above is that octane is only ONE factor in carbon formation. In addition to the ones already noted (e.g. the condition of your oil, pcv and egr) your slow speeds, especially if done for short trips, can be another.

    As to checking the rings, I assume a wet compression check compared to a dry one would be the way to go.
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Member Posts: 377
    If your vehicle is still new and less than 750 miles on it, you can help yourself on beating that oil usage issue.

    Check out 'break-in' on a word search. The advice there is...in the first 500 or so miles, rev the enginer hard and let it come to a low RPM quickly afterward. Do this on a continuing basis while the engine is still new. It allows the rings to swirl around and provide more even hardening of the cylinder walls as the engine wears in. Worked GREAT for my 2001 Trooper! Now I'm doing the same on a rebuilt engine on my 1988 Trooper.

    Yep, we breathed new life into the 88'. I thought several weeks ago that I'd let it go and replace it, but after searching for a replacement, I decided to spend about $1700 to get this baby back on the road. It is running like a top so far, but I do have an oil leak that has to be resolved. It's in the shop now being investigated. Maybe we can squeeze another 15 years of service out of her.
  • pinoy99pinoy99 Member Posts: 79
    is on again, 3 days after the service. No bouncing idle so the IMG is not the problem. I really wonder if they cleaned the valve and/or the egr tube. I'll bet that the code will point to the EGR system.
  • sdc2sdc2 Member Posts: 780
    My CEL is on too. Last week I cleared codes by disconnecting the battery and the CEL came on again...drivability is fine, so I haven't gotten to the dealer yet to have it checked out.
  • bstone3bstone3 Member Posts: 97
    On my 2001 LS it had 430 miles on it when delivered as new - the salesman mentioned that a group of salesmen went to a training seminar in Atlanta and they took my LS before I bought it - now I figured a bunch of salesman going this roundtrip distance on the interstate probably didn't drive 55 mph - so the engine got broke in booking down the freeway - I change out the Mobil 1 every 5k miles and it may be 1/4 quart low at that point. But I agree - there seems to be an issue as to why some use oil and others don't.

    On another point I checked with my tire guys at NTB about repacking the front wheel bearings - the mechanic said don't sweat it until you do the brakes and they include repacking in their front break service price when the time comes ($169). I may not wait that long since most of the mileage on my Trooper is highway and the breaks could go a long time before needing service. He said they would repack for $69 - the repack is very basic work on the Trooper - when I mentioned that the local Isuzu service department wanted $250 he shook is head.

    At 39K miles I have been to the dealer once to replace the fly by wire throttle sensor - check engine light came on even though there was no indication of a problem. The Trooper is a fine vehicle even though I'd kill for a tranmission dip stick.
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    I got a CEL a month ago with a rough idle. I drove it for 3 weeks before the idle bounce occurred. Then they still didn't think it was the IMG until the gasket really blew out. They said it was the upper IMG not the lower IMG? I guess there is one near the fuel distribution and one near the cylinders?

    Is there anyway to fix this on the road? Could you spread gasket sealer around the effected area to temporarily seal it? I want to know how to fix this while on a vacation or something?
  • tkevinblanctkevinblanc Member Posts: 356
    Is there an Accura dealer near you? They sold a rebadged Trooper for a couple of years. They might have the wherewithal to service your Trooper. I know my Buddy with his AccuTrooper is very happy with the Accura dealer.
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    Well my trooper should be fixed now. Service isn't a problem, I have a shop near me that can do the work...it is the warranty work that has been problematic for me. If I want to pay out of pocket I am pretty sure I can get things fixed just about anywhere.
  • notbrockyatesnotbrockyates Member Posts: 19
    On the 2WD version is front bearing repacking necessary as in these discussions I'm seeing? I presume most have the 4WD version. Not sure if the discussions are 4WD related or all vehicles.

    Also FWIW oil consumption on my '02 with 9,000 miles is NIL, fortunately. Wonder why all the different experiences - I gave it an easy break-in period, but other than that ...

    Thanks.
  • cracoviancracovian Member Posts: 337
    "The flaw in my logic" could have resulted from your flawed assumptions. I usually drive on highways (25 miles each way), my cruising speed is about 75MPH (2700 RPM), and following my recent 700-mile trip I almost lost a quart. Maybe my long trips are now to blame? Maybe we could just admit that Holy Isuzu could have produced an engine or two that just burns oil right out of the factory and for no reason that is beyond its owner's control? I think I'd go with the latter since my other cars (all Japanese including one that is 12 years old w/ 150K miles on the clock) don't burn oil or have any other problems and are all driven in similar conditions.

    Like I said before, any oil burning in a new car (excluding towing) is very irritating but I'll have to live with it. As you can imagine it is difficult to explain to my petite, pregnant wife that she has to lift the hood of the Trooper (btw. she can't) and check oil on every occasion she gets, so, I don’t share that information with her and drive the truck myself.
     

    "Of course the flaw in the logic of your quote above is that octane is only ONE factor in carbon formation. In addition to the ones already noted (e.g. the condition of your oil, pcv and egr) your slow speeds, especially if done for short trips, can be another."
  • tkevinblanctkevinblanc Member Posts: 356
    On this one, I'm with you. It's not fun to think about, and it's easy to justify away, but modern engines shouldn't use oil to any significant degree.

    I like my Trooper a lot, enough to call me an enthusiast. But reports of engines that burn oil are disheartening.

    On the other hand, my neighbor's Toyota Sienna (a few months older than my wife's Sienna) just gave it up with less than 40K on the clock. Oil sludging. No, he doesn't change his oil frequently enough: I do mine every 5K with synth. Even a company like Toyota can make an engine that is less than exemplary.
  • jrr2kjrr2k Member Posts: 35
    I lose 1/2 quart between 4000 mile oil changes on my new 02 Troop. Big deal, total cost $.44!
    It could be worse....
    My Volkswagon needs oil between changes. It travels from the container, thru the crankcase, to the cardboard on my garage floor.:(

    Kevin's right no engine is flawless, so far Isuzu's is pretty solid.

    Cracovian - Don't worry about a thing, you can check the oil for your wife in the evenings. Driving with a quart low on short trips won't do any damage. (Disclaimer...)
  • tkevinblanctkevinblanc Member Posts: 356
    1/2 a quart every 5K wouldn't worry me either. But some folks talk about a quart every 1K during highway driving.

    That's a lot of oil.
  • cracoviancracovian Member Posts: 337
    As far as Volkswagens go I keep seeing reports that new New Beetles consume a lot more oil than any Isuzu would.

    I think about getting the beetle for my wife (since it's the only car that she ever wanted) but that outdated gas engine is just scary - diesels are not any better either... and for what price (!) Troopers cost less...
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