Isuzu Trooper

savvas_e · June 2003

kmcgirl.... In Australia the dealers are able to disable the security system for you. I imagine Isuzu dealers in the US should be able to do the same.

However, it is all or nothing. I don't think they can tailor what works and what doesn't.

bstone3 · June 2003

Thanks - what size did you get and let us know what you think when you have them installed. I think I will go the same path if your report is positive. Also my 2001 does the same thing at startup with the air conditioner on - surges some but after 20 seconds or so it smooths out - but it is kind of irritating - sometimes I shut off the airconditioner until I back out of the garage.

tkevinblanc · June 2003

If you disable the stuff you're talking about, you pretty much don't have any conditions left that an alarm system would protect against.

Why don't you just press the lock button on the driver door before you get out, then not press the lock button on the fob? You could still unlock with the fob, but I don't think the alarm would be set.

ryanendres · June 2003

There is an Isuzu tech (+20yrs) who has been posting answers to questions on another board for the past few weeks:

. . . and here is his answer to oil useage on +98 . . .

quote:
------------------------------------------------------------------ ---------------
Most of the complaints of oil usage is on 98 up and I see alot of them. It's in the piston design they changed them in the 98 3.2 run. They only have 4 drain back holes on the oil ring. The new ones will have 10 or 11. Oil is building up and sticking in oil rings. Best way to keep from this doins this is keeping the EGR port clean and the pcv valve replaced. On the 95 3.2 I would say it couldn't hurt to have the egr port cleaned, injectors cleaned and the upper intake decarboned.
------------------------------------------------------------------ ---------------

-Ryan

tkevinblanc · June 2003

Wow. A straight answer. In context with the kinds of solutions folks on this board have come up with, it actually makes some sense.

bsmart1 · June 2003

on my 88' LS Trooper. Anyone got any leads on places to purchase OEM seat covers at a reasonable price? I checked with St. Charles and you would think the things were made of GOLD. Checked on Ebay and nothing posted for several months. Any other possible sources for items like this?

raydahs · June 2003

This is the company that did the ARB project Trooper seats.
http://www.classicsofttrim.com/oem.html

sbcooke · June 2003

I don't know if I completely follow the reasons and description.

In 98 they were using a 3.5L I believe? Second, I have a '99 which has never burned oil except for the first 1000 miles (I did have a new short block put in 15K ago...long story) which says the design does work in some cases. Third, that description would seem like a limited quantity would be used up and then no more like during the break in period...people report 1/2 quart per 1000 miles? That seems like oil is blowing past the rings and getting burned in combustion, not stuck in the rings.

The description may be accurate, but it doesn't quite make sense to me the way is it worded. Can someone who understands this put it differently to prove/dispove the theory?

paisan · June 2003

Same engine essentially.

-mike

breakor · June 2003

The theory makes sense to me.

Namely, some of the oil that makes it to the side of the cylinder and is wiped down, cannot drain out the fouled oil ring drainback holes. When the piston lowers, that undrained oil is now in the combustion chamber. Some of this combusts and leaves. Some partially combusts and makes gunk that further fouls the oil ring and makes matters worse. The gunk that is wiped down and drains fouls the oil. Again, this makes things worse. Some of the gunk in the exhaust also likely heads towards the EGR plugging it, also making matters worse. I don't know if this could ever get so bad that the top (compression) rings would be effected and you get blowby.

Then again I ain't no mechanic. Maybe my rationale is all wrong. If it is correct; in addition to the EGR, PCV etc. pointers noted in the original post you should change your oil sooner rather than later. This will prevent accumulation of junk that could also start the oil ring plugging process.

Again just my $.02.

dmuzyka · June 2003

My local trailer hitch folks put on a class II hitch, welded a removable extension, and sold me a 4 bike rack that swings down if I need access to the rear door. It all came to around $350, and I've had no problems with carrying 4 bikes on trips. You may want to check with your local experts to see what they offer.

paisan · June 2003

Well I knew it would happen eventually...

Trooper = 1
Lexus LS450 = 0

Coming to work today a lady in a brand new lexus on the phone is behind me goes to drive around me and clips my right rear bumper. She smacked right into the bumper protector. Pulls up next to me and say "I think I bumped you" I said "It's ok I'm sure it's ok" The front of her car was a tweaked, she'll need a new $700 bumper, once I got to work I checked it out, paint wasn't even taken off the trooper's bumper protector

Yippie!

-mike

sbcooke · June 2003

Impressive story. Your bumper bar is a great thing for city driving.

I had a very similar experience with a honda a few weeks back...except she hit the tow hook. No damage to me, new hood and grill for her.

paisan · June 2003

Trooper $25K
Bumper Bar $200
Hole in Lexus LS430 Pricelss

-mike

dmigel · June 2003

1. Just in stalled a Hidden Hitch. Had to take off the tow hook. Has anyone considered using some longer bolds and putting the tow hook back on under the hitch (in the same location)?

2. Paisan, you will most certainly lead to the sale of a few bumper bars. I looked at independant4x.com, but couldn't find yours. Where exactly is it, or did you customize.

paisan · June 2003

My bar was a custom one that Matt made for me with 2x4 steel tubing v. 2x2 tubing used on the std. one.

Drop an e-mail to matt and tell him that you are interested in a bar like mine, and I'm sure he'll hook you up on it.

On the hidden hitch, I'm definitely contemplating putting a towhook back in the rear with a longer bolt. I just have been too lazy to do it. It's a PITA to put a towhook through the pin of the reciever sometimes.

-mike

kmcgirl · June 2003

Thanks for the ideas. I will approach a dealer to see if they can de-activate the security, but still allow the lock / unlock feature to remain.

Tkevinblanc - My problems arise when 2 year gets in the truck to play, I roll windows down, but once you reach inside the window to unlock the door, alarm!! Not a big a deal just inconvenient if I have to go inside and find the FOB.

-Kevin

tkevinblanc · June 2003

Been there... but I believe if you lock it from the driver door, the alarm doesn't get set, which is the same as not having an alarm, right? I mean if you disable that feature, you just don't have an alarm, because that's how a thief will get in: break a window, lift the door lock... open door and climb inside.

The FOB will still unlock the doors.

Well, anyway. It's just a thought.

amigo_john · June 2003

That makes sense. One would think that synthetic wouldn't disappear like dino because it is thinner, goes back thru the rings easier and doesn't break down into goo.

On a 96 Mazda 626 I owned I always put in a pint bottle of lifter cleaner right before an oil change. It isn't is harsh as motor flush and took care of lifter ticking. Maybe a product like that would help out the ring situation if it wasn't too bad.

Maybe the solution is to use a real synthetic like Mobil-1. I have used it in both of my Isuzus since the first oil change.

My Rodeo 3.2 uses about 1/2 quart every 3000 miles.
My Amigo 2.2 could go 10000 miles on Mobil-1 and not use a drop.

bsmart1 · June 2003

I think there are problems with the EGR port idea. For instance, a NEW engine isn't going to have fouling of the EGR port. This would take time to occur. The drain ports might be a real issue. He oughta know, if hes been in the biz that long. Still think the idea of breaking the engine 'hard', will help avoid the issue altogether. Anyone able to give testimony about the success of Mobile 1 not getting consumed like dino oil??

bsmart1 · June 2003

for the lead on seat covers. I'll check that out!

beer47 · June 2003

I have been using MB1 since day one. I now have over 94K on my 2000 S. I get it changed about every 10K with original Isuzu filter. I use one qt or so during that 10K interval. I don't think that is too bad considering what I read here at times. I go a little longer than most folks between changes due to the fact that I do alot of interstate miles and I think that MB1 "can take it". It might only take me 3-4 months to rack up 10K miles so I might be changing more often than some people who only go 10-12K a year. If I did dino every 3K I'd never get out of garage! It all comes down to the miles though. If you don't drive much I think it is still important to get even low mileage oil out of there due to possible condensation or other suspension factors. Cheers to all!

breakor · June 2003

I have never used a drop. I do relatively few miles and broke it in very easy. I use dino oil. I change it every 3mos or 3k miles whichever comes first.

My buddy has driven his hard since day 1 and also has never used a drop. He does lots of miles with 3k changes on dino.

boxtrooper · June 2003

The trailer hitch and rear frame of my Isuzu Trooper-S 1995 took a blow from a big Volvo so hard that the Volvo roof bent like a tree fell on it. The rear of my Trooper looks a little scuffed and the plastic bumper cover will need replaced. If that was all that happenned I would be very happy. But the impact also launched my airbags. And put a slight bow in the driver's side rear quarter panel above the tire that I noticed the next morning. Then there's the front right of my Trooper which after accelerating from a dead stop to 30 mph in 0.1 sec hit the rear left of a pickup truck and ruined the pickup's bumper, tailgate and rear quarter panel. It also took out my right front head light, bumper, grill and the A/C condenser. There were no injuries, except a bunch of kids with seat bent shoulder strap marks on their necks.
..
My faithful 1995 Trooper still runs great and drives straight and true, if you don't mind the stink of the air bag smoke.
..
So I drove it home, it is awaiting the insurance inspector, who said over the phone that he thought it is almost certainly totalled, even though it still runs and drives great.
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5 Speed Troopers are rare and in demand. My kids want me to get a new Trooper to replace it because they love to ride in it.
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Should I just let it be totalled and towed away?
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Should I buy it back after totalling pay for the excessive repair bill?
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Do any of you have a 5 Speed 1995 to 2002 Trooper that you could sell to me?
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How about making a deal that it not be totalled and just not have them replace either the front or rear bumpers and then get a set of ARBs? I wonder if anyone has made a deal like that with an insurance company?
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Please send your suggestions.
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Has anyone got a Trooper with a great body that is in need of a new 1995 chassis with OME suspension? Can the body be swapped as a unit? If my Trooper ends up in the junk yard still running and driving great maybe someone will buy it and make an awsome dune buggy.
..
Thank You
Robert Driving Troopers for nearly 20 years.

ostaz · June 2003

Fellow Troopers:
The owners manual specifies single weight (40) motor oil for the transfer case. Lat week I went to an oil change chain, and they said their book calls for Dextron. I insisted they verify, so they called they support line and an Isuzu dealer who confirmed the Dex.

I am driving with Dex now, but I would like a confirmation. Please help.

Thanks
Sam

troop2shos · June 2003

Just wanted to say thanks for the recent tire advice on B-stone A/T Revo 694's. The out the door price for a set of 4 255/70's was $500 & change (with tax) including the dealer throwing in the Road Hazard & lifetime balance. The alignment was on spec so no adjustment was needed. The new tires solved the strong pull to the right & the vibration - left front 684 was bad (originally thought the toe was off due to the wear pattern). Except for the LF, the original 684's still had some life left at 37k but they were getting hard & slick so having the LF go bad early was a good excuse to justify the new shoes to my AWA. Since she drives the Troop most of the time I would have heard complaints on the ride height if I went w/ the 265's - she did notice the 1/2" height difference w/ the 255's. Also, I did notice a very minor but slower off the line difference in acceleration w/ the gear ratio change by installing the larger tires - but she won't.
Now I'm just waiting for Sam's Offroad to deliver my new Rancho RS9000x's this week (buy 3 & the 4th is free

.

raydahs · June 2003

Sorry to hear about your situation. I don't know what state your in, but here's a link to the National Trader Magazine publication for research purposes.
http://traderpub.com/usaindex.html

Also try Isuzudealers.com, probably not as good as Trader, but here ya go anyway..........good luck.
http://www.isuzudealers.com/

breakor · June 2003

If you have TOD that unit is your transfer case and it takes ATF.

breakor · June 2003

Most important thing - make sure everybody is truly ok. Many, many times it takes a while for whiplash type injuries to show up.

If you have to have a perfect LOOKING Trooper I suggest you take the insurance money and run. Otherwise I suspect you will spend too much money bringing your baby completely back to life. You will just keep finding things that cost more than you think. This is afterall why insurance companies total vehicles - becuase it costs too much to bring them back.

On the other hand if you can stand a few dings here and there then you I suggest you consider buying your Trooper back. Ask the insurance company how much they will give you and how much it will cost to buy it back. The difference is how much money you have to work with. If has to be enough to buy an ARB front bumper, a new rear bumper, an AC condenser, and fix all other functional problems. You also have to have enough left over to pay yourself and your family for the hassle of driving around a "cosmetically challenged" vehicle. If you will not be happy driving such a beater then this option will not work for you.

boxtrooper · June 2003

I think I might be able to tolerate an automatic transmission if it does not have that "feeling of falling" as it coasts to excessive speed down hills requiring me to ride the brake down every hill. I also recognize that TOD would be better than a manual transmission on highways with patchy ice.
..
But the 5 speed makes the Trooper a lot of fun to drive. And I remember test driving the 1995 automatic transmission and I am certainly don't want one of those, too sloppy around shift points causing uneeded engine reving etc...
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Were there any 5 speed 2002 Troopers actually made and imported into the USA?
..
Thank you
Robert

boxtrooper · June 2003

I could get by with the rear end not being repaired at all, all the doors work fine. Amazingly the spare tire was not touched! The front will need to be repaired as I cannot even open the hood as it is. The air bags will also need replaced to make my wife happy about safety. Between the front end and the airbags alone might be enough to total it for the insurance people.
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Has any of you got suggestions on how to get more money in an insurance settlement when they total your car?
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Anyone want my dear old Trooper as is for the amount the insurance company lets me buy it back?
..
1995 Trooper-S with power package
OME suspension, still drives straight
tick free engine running smooth and strong
http://www.directhits.com added for better towing power.
One owner etc...

cracovian · June 2003

boxtrooper - so sorry to hear about what happened... I'm glad that everyone is fine SO FAR but please take breakor's advice seriously and go with the rest of your family to a doctor for a checkup ASAP! 0-30MPH impact is no child's play - it must have been horrible :-(

It will truly suck not having you around these forums but I think you should look at other vehicles as there are many more safer (and just as dependable) choices out there.

Honestly (completely honestly), money should not be an object in this case. I would make the Volvo b@st@rd and his/her insurance company pay for assaulting me and my kids - no mercy. It would be enough for getting a new something and buying the dune buggy back for sure...

cracovian · June 2003

...
Has any of you got suggestions on how to get more money in an insurance settlement when they total your car?
...

In these types of situations, your car value is irrelevant. Having kids in the car that gets totaled will usually get you the maximum medical coverage amount of the person at fault (medical bills, pain and suffering, lost work and productivity time, etc.) You also have an option of going after personal assets of that person if they were under/uninsured.

Consider getting a lawyer if the co. is not cooperating. Quite often, the "threat" of doing so will make them quite receptive to your needs. Don't rush, don't sign anything, and most importantly, make sure that everyone is or will be OK.

stever · June 2003

If you do decide to sell it, try elsewhere. No buying and selling on Town Hall please.

And I like Breakor & Cracovian's advice, especially the part about making sure everyone is "healthy" and not just "sore."

Steve, Host

schulhof · June 2003

My '96 Trooper with 127k miles has been parted with in favor of an '03 Honda Pilot.

To the Troopers credit it had no signs of impending problems, was in excellent overall shape and had not one rattle.

But the wife was ready and so it went. The Pilot is quieter, softer, more comfortable, seats 8, gets 18 MPG, has a DVD player, 230 HP, yadda-yadda-yadda...

I will consider myself lucky if in 7 years and 127k miles the Honda fairs as well as the Trooper did. FWIW, we never approached using the 4WD abilities of the Troop' so that was not really an issue on the Pilot.

The resale/depreciated value of a Trooper is poor, so I think Boxtroopers '95 5 Speed is totaled. The cost of Isuzu parts/repairs is not low...

Troop' on all. Best of luck with your Troopers - you won't need it.

Oh, now for the question you all were waiting for....Trade in value:

'96 Trooper S PEP
127k miles
New(er) brakes
Old(er) tires
A few door dings and scratches
Generally outstanding condition:

.....................$4900.

That was with Pilot at MSRP!

paisan · June 2003

Mine dropped from 1Q every 1K to about 1Q ever 1500-2500miles with Mobile 1, it helps.

-mike

paisan · June 2003

2000+ Troopers got Grade Logic on the ATs.

-mike

trooper_dude · June 2003

While I was looking for my Trooper in Jan 2003, saw a brand new 2002 Trooper S with 5 Speed on a dealer's lot in Denver - it was already sold. Had around 15 miles on speedo.

So, a few were imported... but it was the only 2002 5 speed that I saw during my seach over the course of a couple of months.

sdc2 · June 2003

As Mike mentioned, the TOD transfer case uses ATF. The regular transfer case that comes with manual transmission models uses motor oil.

The way the owners manual is written, it is easy to confuse which transfer case they are talking about.

boxtrooper · June 2003

Hey, another opinion please: How hard would it be, and how well would it work,
..
A.) to buy a relatively inexpensive 2wd Trooper and install my 1995 front drive and transfer case?
..
B.) to buy a relatively inexpensive 4wd non-TOD Trooper and install my 1995 manual 5 speed transmission?
..
What feedback does the engine get from the transmission?
Thank You

peterisme · June 2003

I got the same size as the original Bridgestone (245 70 16?) I think they are good. I have had 10 k miles on them, they are very reliable and never had any trouble. I never had never performance/premier tires, so I cannot compare Yokohama to them. But if you consider the cost vs. utilization, they are pretty good deals.

sbcooke · June 2003

I would buy a 4wd vehicle off the shelf, if you can't find a trooper how about a 96/97 Land Cruiser. Doesn't seem worth the effort.

chymer · June 2003

I'm hoping someone can help my father out with a transmission problem on his 1998 Trooper. He took it to an Isuzu dealership for the 80K maintenance, which, according to the manual, included draining and flushing the transmission fluid and replacing the filter. The dealership claimed they didn't do the usual "dropping of the pan", draining the fluid or replacing the filter. They would do a "power flush" which would do the same thing for less money. My dad agreed to this service since they refused to do the recommended way. Now, a couple thousand miles later, his transmission was starting to slip in the higher gears. Prior to this service, he was having no problems at all. He took the Trooper to the dealership that did the flushing to have them check the transmission fluid level. They claimed the fluid was fine. The service tech took a ride with my father to check out the problem. He claimed he couldn't pin-point the problem or even guess at what could be wrong without tearing the transmission apart. My father agreed, unfortunately. It took them two days to even look at it, never returning my father's calls. Finally, they called and said it would be $3000 to fix it. He almost had a heart attack. He questioned the whole deal and they did come down about $400. My father felt they had him by the...teeth, so he agreed to let them do the work. He has talked to people about this and has learned that this flushing process actually destroys your transmission. We feel that this dealership is purposely using this method knowing that they will be replacing the transmission shortly after. Does anyone know about Power Flushing the Transmission and/or has anyone had to replace their transmission at 84K miles? I really want to help my dad, so any info will be greatly appreciated. Thank you!!

tkevinblanc · June 2003

You can find controversy about any technique, but power flushing a transmission is a well accepted technique to more completely replace the tranny fluid. I had mine done.

There is no filter on the transmission.

I'm sorry about your trouble. It is a shocking amount of money.

paisan · June 2003

Is about right for the AT.

I had mine power flushed at 50K miles, now at 55K no problems yet. My milage went up about 3mpg after that.

-mike

troop2shos · June 2003

Technically, a tranny flush is not a power flush nor is it a back flush - the torque converter does all the work. The procedure should really be called a full fluid exchange. This has been a long-standing practice accepted & recommended by Ford, GM, & others. I've had this flush done for many years every 30k without any problems.
I also flush my power steering fluid as well - especially to help save the ZF rack in my V8 SHO.

paisan · June 2003

The place I used actually had a pump, it didn't use the TC.

-mike

breakor · June 2003

2wd to 4wd conversions sound good. However in practice they are never that simple. You will likely have to replace just about every front end suspension component and maybe some rear end parts. For example oftentimes the shocks are different length (even on the rear), the rear driveshaft is different, even the brake lines can be longer on a higher riding more flexible 4 wd. Even the gear ratios are oftentimes different on 2wd vs. 4wd models.

As to adding your 5spd to a non-TOD equipped Trooper, are you sure the transfer case is the same? If not you will have to move that and the computer. Other stuff could also be different here too. For example, IIRC on the 2000 Troopers the exhaust pipes are different in manual vs. AT equipped Troopers. I think it would be much easier and cheaper to move the damaged sheet metal from 1 Trooper to another. There should be no real suprises here and you would have a vehicle with known mechanicals.

Do yourself a favor and drive a newer AT Trooper. This was my first AT vehicle ever. I have no desire to go back to manual shifting. So maybe you too can be converted.

Bottom line, you sound like you may love your damaged Trooper more than you pocketbook. Be careful.

boxtrooper · June 2003

That's what the appraiser from the insurance company told me. When any airbag goes off in a Trooper, all the sensors and electronics are to be changed together, there are 3 sensors at $600 each and then two airbags at $600 each and then the pasenger side aibag ripped the dash for another $1000+ and add $1000 labor to install the entire new airbag system... so just for airbags $5000!!!
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Then the front end was new radiator and A/C condensor and all the support stuff plus hood and left fender and bumper etc.. for $3500.
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Last there's the rear end where the big Volvo died, that bow in the left rear quarter and a new bumper and some minor body work the the bottom hing edge of the big door was only $2000 or so.
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I have a initial offer of $5300 for my Trooper as a total loss payment. I have submitted copies of 1995 5 speed Troopers selling for $7100 and $7990 for comparison to ask for a bigger payment. I will also ask to hold my old Trooper until the new one is purchased and I take delivery just in case I want to swap tires (nearly new Dueler Revo's) or seats or floor mats etc...
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My runs great drives straght 1995 Trooper is done for, maybe it will become a high power dune buggy for someone. Or maybe it will become a junk yard mule.

paisan · June 2003

How much could you purchase the vehicle back for?

-mike

Isuzu Trooper

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