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Isuzu Trooper

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Comments

  • gprodickgprodick Member Posts: 36
    This is my 14,000 mile report on the Bridgestone Revos. A big thumbs up! Far superior to the Pirelli Scorpions that preceded them.

    I, too, was never able to get the Scorpions to run smooth. They just didn't seem round. They were also fairly loud after they got some miles on them. Traction was okay, but, in my opinion, poor in the snow. Wear was not that great. They were pretty much gone at 35K.

    The Revos are soooo smooth and quiet. I mean they are silent, even after the miles. No problem whatsoever getting them balanced. I'm waiting for ski season to see how they handle the snow. In all other traction conditions they seem to work great.

    I highly recommend them over the Scorpions.

    I am running 265/75-16's. This is the same size I ran in the Scorpions. The Scorpions were a "C" load rating. On the Revos I am using a "standard" load rating. The standard load rating tire is a wee bit narrower than their "C" rated tire and a little less stiff. I figured I didn't really need the C rated tire on the Trooper. I think that it turned out to be a good choice.

    Anyway, that's my two cents worth.
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    gprodick, what tread depth did you get on your 265/75 "standard" load Revos? Does that mean they are the P265/75?
    ..
    How often do you do tire rotation on them? My FireStone dealer recommended every 3500 miles for maintaining the quietest tire. I now have the free tire rotation deal at Discount tire because they are the ones I trusted to swap the Revos from my airbag-totaled 1995 to my 2001 Trooper.
    ..
    My 255/70 Revos were wonderful in the snow up North last winter. They now have around 15K miles on them. I hope to get through this winter and maybe next winter before changing to a 265/75 in 2005. The family minivan will be due for tires in 2004, so I want a little more time out of the Revos.
  • tkevinblanctkevinblanc Member Posts: 356
    Okay, sounds good... is there a chain where I can buy them and have them mounted?
  • troop2shostroop2shos Member Posts: 235
    I only have a few thousand miles on my 255/70 Revo tires but I am very impressed with their grip, balance & quiet ride.

    I bought mine from a local Firestone dealer (shop several for the best deal) who quoted me less than the popular mail order stores. Also, no alignment was needed - was spec-on at almost 40k.
  • tetonmantetonman Member Posts: 73
    Just a quick note...

    My family was travelling on I-80 through Indiana and passed the Tirerack offices in South Bend. I was impressed that they had about 4 cars out on their test track doing hard braking in wet conditions (supplied by their sprinklers). All along I thought they were just another discounter...

    So I'll definitely use their ratings as they are pushing the rubber themselves rather than just regurgitating others' research.

    Our 99 S will need new tires before winter. As it doesn't go off-road except for a very occassional gravel road, we're looking at Michelins...

    Love that Trooper!

    Tetonman
  • tkevinblanctkevinblanc Member Posts: 356
    I'm starting to think this is the way to go - buy them from Tire Rack. I guess it's common enough now that lots of places would mount and balance them for me...
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    That's what I did with the Dueler H/Ls. When it was time for the Revos, the local FireStone dealer was able to beat the TireRack price and there were no shipping charges plus discounts on installation and free lifetime balance.
    ..
    On the other hand, the one guy I worked with at that FireStone is no longer there, he's manager now at a farther away FireStone and I don't like the rest of them, so my best local tire store is Discount Tire, they add the lifetime balance free when installing tires even if you do not buy them there.
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    When I did mine, I was able to negotiate the price down to what it would have cost me if I had bought from Tirerack and then had them mounted balanced at the local shop. I was also able to negotiate a trade on my spare towards a replacement, I got $71 on my unused spare towards the negotiated price of approx $105 per tire.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Since I'm a tirerack reseller I can actually go down to DE and pick them up :) Then I usually bring them to costco where they mount em/balance em for $10/tire :)

    -mike
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I'm starting to lean toward the Revos. So far I've heard nothing but good things about them.

    -mike
  • tkevinblanctkevinblanc Member Posts: 356
    I'm thinking about them, too. Either them or the Michelins. Gonna depend on what I have to spend for them...
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Member Posts: 377
    all over Ebay. Anybody tried this gimic? What did it do for you? Does it really work? How did it affect your MPG? Does it put the ECM at risk? What say ye?

    Happy Trooping!!!
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Member Posts: 377
    Rumor is ISUZU is going to re-design and re-tool to bring back the Japanese built Trooper in 2006. Anyone got any details on this?
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    They will probably never be built in Japan again, they outsource just like we do from the USA to lower cost countries.
    ..
    I think the 2006 will be a 7 seater with less hood in proportion to overall length, so it will maybe look more van-ish. But I hope it will retain the ruggedness that we all have come to expect from a Genuine Isuzu.
    ..
    Someone posted recently about this including a link to Isuzu in Thailand where they have a vehicle that the 2006 Trooper will be based on.
    ..
    I hope Isuzu exploits its position as maker of the most fuel efficiennt diesels to sell a lot of clean quiet diesel or even diesel hybrids in the USA. The 2006 diesel fuel regulations in the USA will reduce the amount of sulfur allowed in diesel fuel which will allow the Isuzu diesels to get very clean emissions.
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    I recommend using the spell checker at the bottom of the page.

    tidester, host
  • jrr2kjrr2k Member Posts: 35
    (From post 8225)
    I took a recent trip to the local Isuzu dealership and talked with them about the companys future. They were upbeat about the next few years of Isuzu USA models.
    They are anxiouxly awaiting the arrival of the GDI (direct injection) Axiom. (Me too!)
    Here's some info:
    http://www.mitsubishi-motors.co.jp/inter/technology/GDI/page2.htm- - l
    This lower-MPG, higher-horsepower engine technology will also be an option on the 2004 Rodeo.
    The Isuzu dealer also mentioned the proposed 7 passenger, 3rd row seating SUV due out in 2006. It will also have the GDI V6 and I was told it will essentialy be an import of Thailand's "Panther". Whatever they call it, it will fill the gap left by the Trooper.
    Panther info:
    http://www.isuzu.co.jp/world/product/suv/panther.html
    Other encouraging Isuzu gossip is this article which shows that Isuzu USA won't go away without a fight.
    http://waw.wardsauto.com/ar/auto_isuzus_turnaround/index.htm
    Cool stuff!
  • cwmosercwmoser Member Posts: 227
    I few weeks ago I reported that my pristine 1999 Isuzu Trooper (www.Isuzu.8k.com) got dinged up in a hail storm. My insurance company paid me approximately $3,000 and I decided to just keep the money. Welp, now my insurance company is obviously disappointed that I did not get my Trooper repaired and dropped my collision and comprehensive on the Trooper. They said it will remain that way until I get it fixed. This does not sound fair to me but maybe I am looking at it wrong. Anyone of you have a similar experience?
  • pe1227pe1227 Member Posts: 15
    Hi there,
    I work for an insurance company (Nationwide). Unfortunately, that is a common practice to drop the comp/coll coverage. Their rationale is that if you get further damage on it from another accident, it will be hard to repair just that damage without touching on the original damage. Most insurance companies don't want to have physical damage coverage on damaged vehicles. Hope this helps!!
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    How much is it worth? My '99 minivan is getting down there in value (~$9k) and it's not going to take much more depreciation for me to drop my collision coverage. Three grand in my pocket would be enough to convince me to take my chances right now :-).

    Is there a rule of thumb in the industry for this question, Pe1227?

    Steve, Host
  • pe1227pe1227 Member Posts: 15
    My rule of thumb is to drop the comp/coll when the vehicle is older or is worth 5k or less. If the vehicle is a total loss, then 2-5k as a hit is much easier to swallow than 10k. Another option would be to have higher deductables like 500 or even a 1000 dollars. That would reduce your premium and you would still keep the coverage for the big losses. On my 98 Trooper which is worth about 8k, I have the deductables at 500. Of course if you have a lienholder, you have to have the comp/coll coverage.
  • breakorbreakor Member Posts: 398
    Last I checked there was a device that claimed to somehow fool the computer into thinking colder more dense air was coming into the engine. This was supposed to trick the computer into adding more fuel and therefore allow the engine to get 20 more Hp.

    Even if the computer could be fooled the laws of physics can't be - i.e. the air coming in doesn't get colder and therefore denser just because the computer thinks it does. The air actually has to cool down for that to happen.

    As they say "If it sounds to good to be true . . . ". Well you know the rest.
  • raydahsraydahs Member Posts: 449
    pe1227 - how does the insurance company determine a total loss? I've heard they use KBB value and Auto Trader used car values, most people shoot for high book, which would help out the person with the claim.

    My truck is worth (kbb) $8500.00 to $10.500.00 however, I've recently got trade in quotes of $6800.00 to $7200.00. What does the average consumer use to come up with a true value to determine dropping the comp & collision? The timing of this topic is perfect, just got my 6 month renewal yesterday:)
  • pe1227pe1227 Member Posts: 15
    It is a combination of factors that determines the value for a total loss. KBB is dealer funded and it is my experience that they are inflated as far as their prices are concerned. Carbook is what my company uses to determine vehicle values, which has been pretty accurate,but it could vary with each company on what they want to use. I use the local paper, Carbook, and Edmunds to come up with values and then I average the 3 to come up with a true market value, but that is my own preference.

    If you are arguing with an insurance company about a value of a car, the more documentation you have, showing your values, the better. That is why I use the 3 sources. Hope this helps!
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    From a consumer standpoint, sometimes it helps to bring in current classified ads of similar cars for sale if the agent doesn't do like Pe1227 does, and sometimes showing evidence of recent repairs can help bump up the value of your wrecked car a little (i.e., engine overhaul or 4 new tires).

    Maybe taking donuts to the adjuster would help too? Any rule of thumb for that, Pe1227? LOL.

    Steve, Host
  • cwmosercwmoser Member Posts: 227
    Thanks pe1227, it was Nationwide that cancelled my collision and comprehensive insurance. If I sold my Trooper to another individual I bet he could get coverage as I have never had an agent inspect my newly purchased vehicle. I can partially understand the comprehensive discontinuance, but the collision seems more like retribution. If I had an accident, it should be obvious what was prior hail damage and what was impact damage. I am toddling between going along with Nationwide or going to another company for coverage. My Trooper, 1999, probably had a pre-hail value of $12K - $15K, so spending that $3K on some cosmetics that I question whether would result in me being satisfied was in question. Few vehicles I have seen repainted are as pristine as before. I am also thinking about buying one of those "dent wizards" and just fixing it myself.

    My Trooper is worth far more to me than to anyone else if I sold it. I know how it was maintained and it has all the options. So, I think I will keep it no matter what. In any case, I am not all that sure that Nationwide has been fair with this. I could understand them say inserting special language even disallowing hail damage but to just drop all coverage seems quite severe.
  • pe1227pe1227 Member Posts: 15
    There is another option you could do. You could file a complaint with the DOI (department of insurance). Once you filed the complaint, it would halt the cancelaton of coverage action until it was reviewed by the DOI. They would probably side with Nationwide in all honesty though. It is a standard practice to drop physical damage coverage if a vehicle has not been repaired after a claim has been settled.

    1 thing to keep in mind however, If you drop Nationwide and go with another company, they will find out about the damage. All insurance companies particpate in a claims information exchange called CLUE. When the other company ran the records, they would find out about the loss and how much was paid out. That would usually prompt an inspection by the agent. I don't mean to be the bad guy here, just wanted you to know about their policies and actions. Good luck.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Here in NY I bought a used car and it's covered for about $8-10K, never was inspected when I bought it, registered or insured.

    On my trooper I had a guy smack into the side of me, paid out $2500 worth of damage to me, and I never had it repaired, my current insurance company never knew about it, and hasn't dropped my coverage, etc.

    So it could vary from company to company or state to state.

    -mike
  • cwmosercwmoser Member Posts: 227
    The reason why I did not have my Trooper repaired is 1) inconvience, 2) that in the past I have had vehicles repaired that were less than satisfactory, 3) that I could live with the damage until I decide what I really want to do, and 3) that it made more economic sense to pocket the money at least for now. The value of my vehicle is definitely less with the hail damage than before and I figured the $3k was fair.

    I guess when Nationwide gave me the check for the damage, I thought it was my option where to get it repair and even if I wanted to repair my vehicle. If I went to a body shop for repair today, would the body shop contact the insurance company and report the repair? How about if I purchased a "dent wizzard" tool and repaired it myself - could I then get full insurance coverage? If I get in an accident now and it was my fault, I would feel pretty bad having to take the financial hit all because of politics. In some ways I can understand the insurance companies stance but in other ways I don't - the issue is muddy.
  • serranoserrano Member Posts: 107
    My wife is an agent for State Farm Insurance in Virginia. She says that their policy is the same--if you have physical damage, you lose physical damage coverage until the damage is repaired. This is to prevent the company from having to figure out the value of any subsequent physical damage to the vehicle.

    If the damage was repaired satisfactorily, the "dent wizard" would be fine. How it's repaired is irrelevant; that it is repaired is the point.

    I don't think it's politics. Insurance is not supposed to be a windfall; it's a contract to put you (generally) back into the same position you were in before the damage.

    I have learned that just because you make payments, even if you have been with the company for a long time, it doesn't owe you anything. It only owes you when the policy says it owes you. Nothing more. That often leads to frustration, but insurance is risk-sharing to prevent catastrophic loss; it's not an annuity.

    Tom
  • cwmosercwmoser Member Posts: 227
    Not to belabor the issue, but what if someone purchases a vehicle with existing damage - say a dented front fender. If he informs his insurance agent of the purchase, do insurance companies inspect or even ask about the condition of the vehicle? Or, do insurance track damage and subsequent repairs by VIN numbers?

    Still a further possibility, one that I have personally had happen, is when a vehicle is repaired that it was not done properly. Now a pre-existing flaw exists with the vehicle even though it was supposedly repaired.

    I think the reason insurance companies are so 'paranoid' about this is that they have been defrauded by some in the past, and to halt the abuses, honest policy holders have to suffer, as they say in the military, as 'collateral damage'.
  • schweikbschweikb Member Posts: 111
    A few weeks ago I posted that my sotf indicator (P/T 4wd '98 Trooper S auto)was stuck in flickering mode - as when it transitions either into or out of 4wd. A search of earlier posts site and comments of folks on this Trooper forum encouraged me to try fixing it myself. I ordered the front axle switch unit (Denso dual switch part with 6 vacuum hoses)from St. Charles and installed it yesterday. Light still flickers.
    When I am under the front end and a friend presses the sotf button to engage 4wd I can hear a clinking movement. When the button is on the engaged position the sotf light (symbol) stays ON. Also, I've tested the vehicle on gravel roads with a friend looking from the outside. When I have the sotf light on and 4wd engaged, I floor the Trooper and no wheels spin, it just accelerates, all 4 wheels getting traction. However, when I disengage and the sotf flickers and I tromp on the loud pedal, the rears and only the rears break loose and throw gravel all over behind me. Also, when in 4wd mode and the sotf indicator staying lit, I can go from 4wd hi to 4wd lo and back, and feel the difference in engine sound and speed. It really feels like I am getting 2wd and 4wd, even though the sotf indicator flickers when in 2wd.
    Any chance this is something like a bad sensor that is telling the light (maybe even the ECU) that I am still trying to disengage from 4wd, when in fact I have?
    Maybe I am just trying not to have to go back to Sholz Isuzu again since they screwed up my brakes, and never seem to find anything wrong with anything, just replace parts at high labor rates.
    Speaking of labor rates and getting the Troop fixed, anyone have a recommendation for a good, reasonably priced dealer repair shop or private shop that knows Troopers, somewhere between NYC (I live in Yonkers)and Margaretville, NY where I go on weekends?
    Thanks
    Bob
  • serranoserrano Member Posts: 107
    cwmoser - My wife inspects all vehicles that she insures when the vehicle is first insured. I'm not sure about how the process works from there. I suspect that the systems vary, and that there are people who get over.

    You are correct that insurance fraud is a huge problem, making it more expensive for the rest of us. Believe me, I have to listen to the stories. Like I said earlier, many people think their insurance is an annuity, and that they "deserve" a payout from time to time because they have paid in for X number of years. Also, many do not understand the concept of a deductible, or at least pretend that they don't understand when they have to cover it.

    Like most professions, being in insurance (my wife, not me) is not always pleasant. In the eyes of the public, you are screwing them because an individual policyholder pays in but generally gets no tangible benefit. Selling "peace of mind" is, in my opinion, a lot harder than selling something tangible.

    Tom
  • darcolinodarcolino Member Posts: 2
    I've read in a few messages that the 1999 model years have an intake manifold gasket issue.

    Has that been confirmed anywhere?

    I have some stalling problems when my A/C is running and the dealer can't find the problem. I want to be able to point them in the right directions.

    Thanks in advance!
  • teacherjimteacherjim Member Posts: 52
    I went to the Isuzu dealer today to find out about my blinking TOD light when I engage it. I was told that it is a bad clutch sensing part, the TOD can't sense the torque to go into TOD. They will order it and it will be here next week and will take 2 hours to fix. This is the first problem I have had in 44,000 miles. While I was at the service dept I heard a girl who had a Rodeo ask about it. They said it had a bad fuel pump and to replace it was going to be $683! She asked why so much and they said that they would also have to replace the sending unit. Boy, almost $700 to get a fuel pump replaced. What kind of bills am I looking at in the future?.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    If you are DIY type person, the fuel pump is a cake walk. Probably about $150 in parts, and it sits right in front of the fuel tank under the vehicle.

    I had my TOD sensors replaced as well, pretty simple job and apparently common.

    -mike
  • raydahsraydahs Member Posts: 449
    Some have the problem some don't, check out line item #18 http://www.alldata.com/TSB/29/99291539.html
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Member Posts: 377
    On the 2000 or higher year models that have the drive by wire system, as the Trooper either speeds up or slows down there is a singing sound, like a spring being stretches and relaxed. It seems to unrelated to throttle position, but definitely related to what the engine is doing. Oh, you gotta turn your radio off to be able to hear it. What the heck is that noise and can it be silenced?
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    The servo activating the butterflies in the throttlebody? I've never heard anything inside the cab of my trooper, it's pretty darn quiet in there!

    -mike
  • breakorbreakor Member Posts: 398
    If I understood you correctly you are in 2wd until you push the 4wd button. Then you get 4wd. Therefore your only problem is a flickering light.

    Sounds to me like some sensor is not working properly. I don't know what triggers the light. I am guessing though that it could be as simple as something in the 4wd switch?, or a limit switch on the 4wd low lever?, or maybe a sensor on the transfer case? Your next step is probably to get a wiring diagram and start checking for bad switches, sensors, and connectors.
  • ostazostaz Member Posts: 80
    The blower motor in my 99 Trooper only works in the highest speed. I had the opportunity to pickup a blower motor from a junk yard, after installing it, I got the same result.

    What should look at next? switch?

    Thanks
    Sam
  • beer47beer47 Member Posts: 185
    I took me 3 years and 2&1/2 months to put 100K miles on my 2K "S". A few thoughts for the "team": Brake pads all around @ 87K (could have went longer but I thought I might be risking the rotors to do so). I had fuel filter done at 75K. Original fan belt, plugs and PVC valve @ 93K. I could have waited to 100k but somehow it just didn't feel right to wait that long. Propeller shaft lube @ 75K & 98K. I know I waited too long to have it done the first time but the truck seems none the worse for it. Complete flush/fill of AT @ 45K and 98K. I also did diffys and TOD/Transfer case fluids @45K but have yet to do them again. New coolant @75K and new shocks. Had the 2 fuel line recalls done. Spray nozzle on hood was clogged and I let them blow it out under warranty. One time a fender trim piece seemed to have a gap and they replaced a couple plastic clips to hold it on. Psngr side door speaker blew (courtesy of Roy Acuff's "Great Speckled Bird" and "Blood on the Highway") replaced under warranty. NO repairs of of any kind in the first 100K. I am truly impressed at this point. This Trooper has been A-OK in my book. I am still on 2nd set of tires; originals were replaced @50K. I think I can get 10K before the real winter arrives in NJ and I will probably replace them before Xmas. I have not followed any schedule in the owners manual or the dealer recommended sheet. I did what I thought was necessary through my own judgment and by what I have learned from the more mechanically adept people on this board. Needless to say I have learned a great deal. My current quandry is when to do the timing belt. I think the book says 105K. If I let it go to 118K and she breaks, would it covered under warranty? I am not sure. I guess I will do the water pump at the same time, Murphy's Law being what it is. Top and bottom radiator hoses will also be done to be on the safe side. MB1 has been the oil of choice for each 10K change. Oil, air filters and brake pads I have bought from the dealer in Missouri (St Charles) that others have bought from as well. I regret that the Trooper is not being imported any more, I would probably get another when the time comes. I must admit however that the new 4Runner is pretty neat, but , it is pricey. Oh well, maybe with the investment in tires, timing belt, water pump and hoses, I will go for 200K! I think the junkman pays the same for all cars @ 250K plus anyway, so maybe that is the way to go! Resale be damned! Now, if I only had power seats!!!!!! Cheers to all
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    I did not changes the hoses ever on my 1995 which was totaled at 140K. I asked about it at my trusted Isuzu mechanic (a specialty shop, not the dealer) and they said that there are a bunch of water hoses all around the engine and changing all of them is a big deal. He also said there have been very few problems with hoses on Troopers so he recommended not to change a hose unless it leaked and many go 200K to 350K without changing hoses. Your mileage may vary.
    ..
    I did have a slow leak in a power steering hose and that was replaced.
    ..
    To stay in warrantee I would change the timing belt according to the book. Also change the water pump and timing belt tensioner because these are easy if you are doing the timing belt.
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Member Posts: 377
    sounds like its in the vicinity of the gas pedal. It can only be heard if everything is OFF. But its definitely inside the cab of the vehicle. Hard to look under there while the vehicle is moving. Can't complain about 21 mpg on the highway though. VERY happy about that part of this Trooper.
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Member Posts: 377
    the 99' model Trooper? Where did they put it? I'm thinking of trading it out with the 01' and see what happens to the mpg on the 99'.
  • beer47beer47 Member Posts: 185
    I understand that the back of the engine hoses would be a real pain to change, but you didn't do radiator hoses that are fairly easy to get to? I figure they might be ready for a change considering all the hot/cold cycles they endure in 100,000 miles.
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    because I trust my independant Isuzu mechanic who has always steered me right. For example at front bearing repack time I told them to put on new brake pads, they called me at work and said the old pads still hade quite a lot of pad left so I should not change them yet.
  • beer47beer47 Member Posts: 185
    If you have a good steady Eddie Isuzu mechanic, I would follow his advice too. I wish I had one; but I have to rely on dealer so far. Maybe I can find one in Central NJ if I am lucky. It would be nice to save a few bucks on the hourly labor rate. I am hoping my second 100K is almost as trouble-free as my first.
  • champapugchampapug Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 Trooper S with aftermarket leather. My wife is very uncomfortable in the front passenger seat (the bottom seems to have no tilt to it) and she feels as if she is sliding toward the front of the seat all the time. I need a fix in order to keep my Trooper! Help!
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    I have no ideas for a adjustable seat tilt, but the seat it self should be bolted to the seat rail that allows it to go forward and back. Look it over and see how it is bolted on. Figure out what height of spacers and length of bolts you will need. Goto the local harware store (Lowes has stuff like this) and look for spacing materials a block of wood or metal or maybe a large rubber stopper. Make sure to use a mthod to prevent the bolts from coming loose like nylon lock nuts etc...
    ..
    Seat the wife in the adjusted seat to test out the new height, if not happy yet, repeat.
    ..
    What is aftermaket leather? Is that replacement seats or re covered seats?
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    Leather upholstery installed by a shop after the vehicle has already been manufactured (and had cloth upholstery originally). I'm not a big fan of it - would rather have the stuff installed at the factory or not at all.
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