Isuzu Trooper

bsmart1 · October 2003

OK, I went on Ebay and bought the Mod. I'll test it out and report my findings here later. Stand by.

teacherjim · October 2003

Well I got my 44,000 mile 2001 Trooper back Sat morning. They put in a new transfer case, new TOD speed sensors, new actuator axle(thats what is listed on work sheet)and a valve unit-ax(once ogain on the repair sheet. I don't know how much this would have cost with out my warranty, but the parts guy said the transfer case was $2600 it's self. It was 4 hours labor as well as the other parts. I am guessing it was about $3500 all together. I don't know what the actuator axles are, are they an item that usually goes out?. For only taking the truck in cause the TOD light was flashing when I engaged it, sure had to fix a lot of stuff. This was my first problem and hope it is the last. Note: I tried out the TOD several times today and after I push in the button and the 4wd lights come on, about 2-3 seconds later I hear a light clunk. I guess thats the unit engaging, I never heard that clunk before now. I hope thats not something bad, hope its just the transfer case breaking in.

dnestr · October 2003

Thanks a lot, Breakor! I did as you wrote. So gonna back to the local police office tomorrow.

bstone3 · October 2003

Been on vacation but here is the latest on the cold starting surge problem I was having on 01 LS TOD. They kept the vehicle a couple of days to duplicate the problem - only first start in the morning - it did it. The mechanic however was not so sure of the problem so he disconnected a black short hose from the fuel pressure regulator and connected a 10" coiled up piece of clear tubing - he wanted to see if fuel was collecting in the clear tube - I think this is a bypass line suggesting the regulator was bypassing fuel - has been a problem in some Troopers. He didn't see any fuel but I mean to tell you the starting surge is gone - I think the long coil tube stops any fuel from bypassing the regulator and going to the fuel intake. They left the long coil line in to see if I have the problem anymore - and I don't. The Trooper starts better than it ever has. He also told me that he was surprised to see the Champion plugs installed that he replaced with NGT's - he thought that was a 2000 or earlier issue. Anyway the problem seems to be the pressure regulator and I will see if I can get them to replace it.

paisan · October 2003

Not all of them had the roof. I'd guess about 90-95% of them did though.

-mike

breakor · October 2003

Based on readings here and elsewhere (I assume it is verboten to mention the elsewhere) I am guessing the line they disconnected is the vacuum actuator line. If there is a hole in the FPR diaphram, that can allow fuel to drip into the vacuum intake and cause idle/starting problems. It could be like you noted that the line is a bypass line. In any event the cure of course is a new FPR.

In your case you could now have gasoline dripping past the diaphram (or trying to flow around the FPR like you noted) into a clear plastic line. How heat and chemical resistant is that plastic? Many hardware store varieties for example aren't very. How well is it capped? How long do you have to drive around with such a jury rigged system? The point being this setup may help the car run better but at what added risk of fire? I personally would make the dealer get that tubing out of there ASAP.

bstone3 · October 2003

Thanks for the advice - it is jury rigged and the tube probably is not a good long term option - so I will opt for the new FPR. I remember the mechanic mentioning the diaphram but he never saw any visible gasoline show up in the new clear tube, he got it from his toolbox - the reason he left it like that to see if the problem re-occured then I could check the line - my belief is that the leakage is minimal but enough to cause idle problems at start-up with the original 1" tube in place. But for information purposes the Trooper has always, since new, surged somewhat at startup and had gotten worse over 44K miles. Thanks again

sdc2 · October 2003

Mastercraft Courser C/T

http://www.mastercrafttires.com/us/en/ProductDetails.asp?ProdType- - =LtTruck&id=209

Made by Cooper

paisan · October 2003

Still haven't bought mine yet, thinking of going with another set of Scorpions in 265-75-16 or the ones I have now which are 275-70-16

-mike

sdc2 · October 2003

Yeah, I'm wavering about whether to get new tires now...I have almost 45K on my Scorpions, but there is some tread left, just not as much as I would like for a Minnesota winter.

But my hand may be forced now - in the last few days I have noticed one of my tires has a slow leak, was down to 15 psi yesterday.

The Scorpions are at least $40 more expensive (per tire) than they were last time I bought, so I am looking at other options. I like the design of the Nitto Terra Grapplers, but they aren't any cheaper than the Scorpions. Yokohama Geolanders are cheaper, and with pretty good reviews...who knows.

paisan · October 2003

Hmm weird. The Scorpions I'm looking at are the same price or less than they were when I bought mine.

-mike

sdc2 · October 2003

I bought my LT265/75C Scorpions for $93.99 ea. at Sears, now they are $141 at Discount Tire (Sears doesn't have them anymore). I guess DT includes mounting/balancing, so the actual difference is less than $40, but still...

sdc2 · October 2003

Well, I bit the bullet and bought 265/75 Nitto Terra Grapplers at Discount Tire this afternoon. I just really liked the tread design, particularly of the shoulder area. Should work great for rock crawling, and be decent in the mud.

paisan · October 2003

I'm gonna stick out mine for a bit longer and see how they do. I have close to 45K miles on them and they are wearing a bit thin for my liking.

-mike

sdc2 · October 2003

I was gonna do the same, at least for a couple more months, but then the one started leaking, and at this point I would rather put the money into new rather than fix the old ones.

I was looking at the Yokohama Geolanders, but they are rated at 360 for treadwear, and the Nittos are rated 500, along with Traction A, and Temp B ratings. That's better than most tires in this category.

paisan · October 2003

Might be an option for me.

-mike

slowfoot2 · October 2003

Took my 01 Limited to the dealer and described the steering wheel bump when turning wheel and also the noise coming from the front right wheel area. Service recommended I get an alignment but after I informed them they had checked my alignment 1000K ago at the 30K service said they would take a look.

Nine miles were put on the Trooper in a test drive as the odometer so indicated. Service asked me if anyone else had done an alignment on the truck and I pointed to a perfect maint record with them except for one oil change. I could tell my answer was not what was expected.

Informed "one bolt was backing out" and another bolt on the control arm was very loose. Said problem was fixed, no charge and as computer was down no paperwork. I have since called for the paperwork to be mailed to me.

I have no clue what they did to my Trooper at the 30K $468.00 service plus an additional 98.00 for a PVC valve but clearly they had caused the problem. Seems like everytime I go in for service I need more service to fix the service. Lesson learned at last.

Thanks for all the input.

paisan · October 2003

On the Isuzus for me, Less is more.

I do the fluids and that's about it, IMHO.

-mike

wlbrown9 · October 2003

It took a little looking, but I confirmed what I thought I remembered...looking through the "Editor's Reviews" of the '00, '01 & '02 Trooper, found the note that for '02 the Moonroof is now standard. In the '00 & '01 reviews it noted that the Moonroof was standard on the Limited. I have an '00 LS 2/wd with a moonroof, but could not remember if it was extra or standard... It has to be an option.

I would agree with Mike that most of the '00 & '01 LSs had it included as an option.

Bill

sdc2 · October 2003

Well I'm glad it wasn't standard in 99, if it was I wouldn't be driving a Trooper now. I'm headroom-challenged, and the moonroof takes too much of the headroom directly over the drivers seat. I had to find a Performance Package (mid-level, with 8-way adjustable seat) Trooper without moonroof to even consider getting one.

schweikb · October 2003

Toward the end of August I posted a problem I was having with the SOTF light flickering on my 98 Trroper S auto with PT 4WD (not TOD). Thanks to reviewing some of the posts on this board I ordered the front axle switch unit (Denso dual switch part with 6 vacuum hoses)from St. Charles and installed it myself. The light still flickered, but I knew it was going into and out of 4WD (even before the new part) based on obsrevations of wheelspin, noises, etc.
After 3 subsequent trips to the Isuzu dealer it is fixed. They said that all along it was going into and out of 4WD, but a bad control unit was not reporting this to the relay that controls the SOTF light.Total cost: St. Charles $135; Isuzu dealer $235 parts and $145 labor = $515 plus tax.
I also had the dealer look into (again) a noise I've had at the right wheel since shortly after they re-did the front brakes a year and a half ago. This time they actually heard the noise (hooray!!) and took the front right hub apart, saw nothing wrong, re-assembled it and said the noise had somehow gone away. By time I drove home it was making the clicking, scraping noises again as I pulled into the garage. I will bring it back, but a question: I have a feeling they cut the rotors too much when they did the brakes and the clips that hold the pads are not holding them firmly, so when you put the brakes on the pads move too much and rattle around until they contact the disc. I had a problem like this with my 95 Protege and the dealer eventually replaced the discs (at my expense @ 45K miles). The noise went away. I feel if the dealer cut the pads too much they are responsible.
Anyway I wonder if this may also relate to the discussion recently of "C" rings in the front axle hub? The dealer says they took everything apart and it was A-Ok - but who knows.
Help!!

Thanks folks

johnny_ringo · October 2003

I'm having a similar issue with my TOD system. When I hit the switch the indicator lights keep blinking and the system does not respond. If I allow it stay that way for a short period of time the "Check Engine" light appears. Is that similar to your previous situation? I've tried all the battery unplug and reset tips offered up to no avail. I've also cleaned the TOD electrical connection at the unit w/o success.

Other than that, I have been thrilled with the truck. '00 LS with 52k miles.

bsmart1 · October 2003

whats the culprit back there? Happens most when theres a side to side motion.

cwmoser · October 2003

I keep detailed records on fuel usage in my 1999 Isuzu Trooper and have noted that MPG has started to slightly drift lower as the vehicle ages. Plugs have never been replaced so that could be the issue or perhaps my driving style has changed.

If anyone is interested, here is my Excel spreadsheet of usage over 57,000 files:
http://www.isuzu.8k.com/First-57k-miles.htm

boxtrooper · October 2003

I tracked my 1984 Trooper's MPG like that for 201K+ miles. High was 24 mpg and low was 16 I think with the little 1.9L engine that could.
..
I think spark plugs and wires (if yours has wires) would help out the MPG. A clean air filter or K&N drop in replacement would help too. Then some small amount of valve timimg error may be beginning to add the the performance issue.
..
Or it could just be that you are tracking the changes in your local fuel recipe which might be dictated to local suppliers by government regulations.
..
I stopped recording the MPG every time with my 1995 Trooper at about 60K and have not started that with my 2001. I decided it is not worth the stress it was giving me to worry about it, and that a big change in economy would be noticeable without the day by day recording so I am laid back about MPG now.

sdc2 · October 2003

Yes change the plugs, it's easy on the Trooper. Also change your fuel filter, believe it or not that can affect mileage too.

chaser1 · October 2003

Aren't they unidirectional tires? (believe they used to be when they were first introduced) If they are still - does this concern anyone about having to carrying two spares?

Any feedback on Isuzu dealers for repair/maintenance in DC/Metro area? Am only a couple of miles from Gaithersburg Isuzu but don't know anything about them. Who have you had either good or bad experiences with?

Thanks!

tkevinblanc · October 2003

I've used Gaithersburg Isuzu. For the limited things I've had done, they seem okay. But I really don't have that much experience.

Their service writer has been there forever and has been helpful when I've talked to her.

tkevinblanc · October 2003

Okay, they aren't shiny, but they are new. Bought the Michelin XLTs. $126 including lifetime balancing, puncture repair, etc, minus a four-tire $60 rebate ($15 per tire).

I've only driven them a few miles, but they are extremely quiet, and handle nicely.

teacherjim · October 2003

Johnny, My trooper was doing just what yours is now. First the dealer replaced the speed sensors, but that did not fix the problem, and the tod lights kept flashing and never engaged. I never heard the noise the tech said he heard in the transfer case. I don't know if it was the new transfer casethat really fixed it or if it was the new axles, etc they also replaced. My trooper is working fine now. I have used the TOD several times since we have had a lot of rain the last few days. The slight clunk I heard the first few times I engaged TOD has gone away. I hope it just had to get broken in. Good luck in finding your problem.

sbcooke · October 2003

I have a clunk when I engage TOD after driving in 2wd for an extended period. I think it is due to the front axles/hubs not being at the same operating temperature/RPM as the rear when fully warmed up.

I never have an issue in the first 20 minutes of driving, it shifts super smoothly into TOD. However after 30-45 minutes of driving I wait until I can slow to under 10 MPH or stop to engage it.

Perhaps some systems are getting damaged by engaging TOD at higher speeds after warm-up?

bawbcat · October 2003

The front driveline is always spinning in the TOD system since the front hubs are permanently engaged. The front should therefore be about the same temp/RPM as the rear at all times.

sbcooke · October 2003

OK...however I do experience a clunk in that scenario. Others have reported the same results in warmed up situations.

jrr2k · October 2003

250 hp Rodeo!
Looks like a test drive is in my future.
http://www.isuzu.com/index.jsp

ostaz · October 2003

I repalced the blower motor because it only worked on the highest speed. This didn't fix the problem. I am told that the problem is the resistor pack.

I bought the resistor from St. Charles. Does any one know the location of this resistor?

Thanks
Sam

breakor · October 2003

I believe it is in the area behind the glove box. They typically are slightly inset into the heater/ac duct to help cool them off.

boxtrooper · October 2003

Did you notice the torque is all there even at very low RPMs? Torque Curves:
http://www.isuzu.com/direct_injection_engine.jsp
I guess the low end torque might be due to not having to use the air moving in the intake manifold to carry to fuel air mixture. The low end torque would be awsome off road or towing. It would also be a lot of fun with a stick shift anytime.

bluedevils · October 2003

98 Trooper with TOD, almost 95k miles. We've replaced the spark plugs (at 75k miles) and fuel filter (don't remember exactly when - maybe we're due for a 2nd replacement), but still our Trooper's fuel economy is gradually decreasing. I'm not sure if this has anything to do with the fact that our Trooper's oil consumption has been gradually increasing - I still have not nailed down the cause, but it's time to do something because the truck is using a quart of oil every 800 miles.

ryanendres · October 2003

There seems be an oil useage issue on the 98 and 99's (3.2 and 3.5). Why? Well I guess the holes in the rings (that drain the oil), tend to get plugged up easily (I guess sometime in 2000 they started to use new rings). I would post a bunch of links with more ifo, but that is frowned upon here since they would go to "other" forums.

A possible solution is to use sea foam in the oil, in your gas, and into your intake. Follow the directions or take it to a qualified mechanic.

Good Luck!

boxtrooper · October 2003

Are you due for a timing belt change at 100K and could that effect both MPG and Oil use?
..
Do you have other symptoms? Pinging etc..
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If you are burning all that oil in one cylinder there might be 1 fouled plug and the other 5 cylinders working harder to make up for it gives lower MPG?
..
If all the plugs look oily, you may be able to swap to a hotter plug to burn them clean.
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Are your spark plug wires (if you don't have coil over plug) original?
..
Air filter clean?

bsmart1 · October 2003

It turned out to be the rear stabilizer bushings causing a rub on the stabilizer bar. Pulled the bushings down and cleaned them real good. Cleaned the bar surfaces real good and lubicrated them a bit with Supergrease. Reinstalled the bushings and the squeeking is GONE!

bsmart1 · October 2003

I don't know if it's 20HP or not, but it's definitely something more than I had BEFORE the modification.

Did you ever notice how well your Trooper runs on a real cool morning compared to a hot summer day? Well, thats what you'll experience when you install this simple little modification. You'll get that little extra peppy feeling ALL the time.

More details later....

jrr2k · October 2003

Boxtroop - The DI V6 is bound to make the Rodeo an even better off road vehicle. The torque graph looks very cool. I can't wait to take one for a ride.
Now if they would only start importing the DMax deisel!
http://www.isuzu.co.jp/world/product/dmax/powertrain.html

bawbcat · October 2003

I have a 98 Trooper with TOD and about 55k miles. I can hear a fair amount of noise from the xfer case. Nothing really bad, I can just hear the gears turning as I drive, even with TOD off. I'm pretty sure it's the xfer case and not the tranny since the sound doesn't change if I'm accelerating or decelerating and doesn't depend on what gear the tranny is in, even neutral. At any speed above 10 MPH or so, I feel like I can hear the xfer case spinning. I've only owned this truck for about 10k miles and the sound hasn't changed much if at all over that period. I just want to know if this noise is normal, or if I have a problem brewing.

What is the experience of others here? Can you hear your xfer cases spinning, or are they quiet?

breakor · October 2003

if it is the one that claims to fool the computer into thinking that the incoming air is cooler, can it? The theory is that computer is therefore supposed to add more fuel to go with the cooler/denser air. The physics remain that air is not cooler let alone denser. Therefore the computer cannot add more fuel without the O2 sensors noting the rich condition. In milliseconds this information would be fed back to the computer and it would immediately reduce the fuel flow.

Just my $.02. If you feel a benefit then I would really like to know how it is acheived.

breakor · October 2003

FWIW, I agree with Ryanendres take. Namely the rings likely have too few and/or too small drainback holes from what I have read. This in turn allows the engine to burn oil that isn't properly wiped down and drained from the cylinder walls. This oil burning forms carbon some of which tends to plug up the EGR and its tubing. The reduction in EGR flow in turn causes the engine to run hotter. This in turn causes even more carbon formation which plugs the ring drains even more. Thus the vicious cycle of oil burning/engine plugging with carbon accelerates.

In addition to the gas and oil treatment noted by Ryandres you should make sure your EGR and PCV are carbon free. If you don't take this step you will be right back to where you started. Namely if the EGR is plugged the engine will therefore run hotter. This will form carbon that will easily plug up the undersized drain holes on the rings. Conversely if you only attack the EGR and PCV pieces of the puzzle, you will very quickly plug them back up if you don't clean the rings/oil with a fuel and oil treatment. Again, you must try to clean the rings, oil, EGR and PCV. If you miss just one item (well maybe with the possible exception of the PCV, but it is easy to clean so I am throwing it in there to cover all bases) you will have done little if any longterm good. Also changing your oil at no more than 3k miles should help prevent the problem from recurring.

Again, just my hopefully helpful $.02.

breakor · October 2003

I don't notice the any noise from my 99. Then again maybe I am just used to it.

Do you hear the noise with the engine running but the vehicle stopped? If so that would tend to rule out the transfer case.

In any event a check of AT and TOD unit fluid levels and condition sounds like a good idea to me.

bsmart1 · October 2003

If you've ever owned a little older model vehicle, you know you could adjust the spark timing with a slight twist of the distributor. This used to be a common practice for folks that lived in areas where the temperature varied greatly from season to season, or where the altitude made a difference in the operation of the vehicle. The timing could be adjusted to the point of 'pre-ignition' or just up to that point to prevent valve clatter. As the timing was advanced, the vehicle would perform differently to provide proper fuel burn and better effeciency.

Now all of this is done with the (IAT) intake air temperature sensor. The computer senses the intake air temperature and adjusts the timing of the spark to optimize efficiency and performance.

This sensor is a thermistor with a negative temperature coefficient. As the temperature rises, its resistance goes down. As the temperature decreases the resistance goes up. The thermistor is part of a RC time constant that affects spark timing and pulse width or duration.

On my sensor the resistance measured 2500 ohms at about 75 degrees, and 5000 ohms at about 40 degrees.

The mod inserts a fixed resistance in place of the thermister, to simulate at cooler temperature and this affects the timing of the spark, which puts the engine timing at a different point on the power curve.

bawbcat · October 2003

I only hear noise when the vehicle is rolling, and it doesn't seem to depend on the engine speed or tranny gear. The noise is coming from the center console area. That is what leads me to think the xfer case is the source. There is no clunking, grinding, or other nasty sounds. It just sounds like gears/bearings turning but at a louder volume than I would expect. A check of the fluids is probably a good idea. A dealer replaced a leaking front driveline seal on the xfer case under warranty in the last year, maybe they didn't refill properly or maybe damage was already done due to low fluid. It's out of warranty now.

breakor · October 2003

is all well and good. But like I noted before your air is not cooler therefore unless the computer was programmed wrong in the first place (i.e. it had the wrong fuel/air temperature curves) AND some guy on Ebay corrected this, with a static device no less, your are kidding yourself. Also even if this was true all newer vehicles operate with computer FEEDBACK control. Thus no matter what initial reading your mod tells the computer to do, the computer will in milliseconds use feedback data such as exhaust oxygen content to overrule that initial setting. But since none of my money is involved, if you want to think otherwise go ahead.

Isuzu Trooper

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