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Isuzu Trooper

1185186188190191233

Comments

  • jnggngjnggng Member Posts: 2
    I need somebody help me for the TOD transmission & transfer case oil change. Any good service center I can go in S.I. or B'lyn, Please!
  • doublesharpdoublesharp Member Posts: 32
    Wish me luck. I just bought a 2000 Trooper 2wd limited on ebay. Looks great, white over beige leather. 68k and carfax shows 1 owner Texas truck. Got it for 10,900, not a steal I know but it's just what I wanted and appears to be showroom condition. Ebay adds that risk element though so until I actually see and drive it I'm a little nervous. No questions, just waiting impatiently because I can't get away to pick it up until May 21.
  • cwmcwm Member Posts: 42
    Sounds like a great deal to me. The "Limited" equipted Troopers are very nice but kinda rare - our family has two - 1999 Trooper and a 1998 Trooper. Regarding 2wd, 99.9% of my driving is in 2wd and just occassionally I use 4wd to 'play in the snow'.

    $10.9K sounds like a steal to me.
  • doublesharpdoublesharp Member Posts: 32
    I snagged a 96 Acura SLX 4x4 cheap last summer. High miles but good shape. My wife loves it and I do too so when the chance to upgrade came along I took it and will keep them both. My 96 w 128k runs great. I had water pump and timing belt done and put 265/75/16's on it. I'm in Louisville Ky area and Troopers are pretty rare. This 2wd is in Houston. I was planning on flying down and driving it back, about 1000 miles but the dealer I bought from says he can ship it for $500 so I think I'm going to do that. Will get it a little quicker and by the time you figure plane fare, gas, motel, depreciation it's about the same as picking it up in person. Seller has feedback of over 500 and is an Ebay power seller plus we've talked several times and my gut says he's trustworthy but until it's in hand there's some doubt. I'll keep the board posted how deal comes out.
  • silverghostsilverghost Member Posts: 154
    Where in KY are you? I'm in Houston, and I have family in the Knoxville, TN area that I visit occasionally. If you'd like to save a couple of bucks by having me drive the '00 up there, you would only have to come to K'ville to pick it up. BTW, my Troop is an '01 LS 2WD.

    Just a thought.
    Dave
  • cwmcwm Member Posts: 42
    A friend of mine purchased 2 vehicles off Ebay and had them shipped to him instead of going out and picking them up. He was extremely satisfied with both vehicles when the truck drove up and dropped them off. Still, I understand the 'doubt' about whether your purchase will meet your expectations. Good luck - most likely you have examined the pictures and description in detail and it will be as you expect.

    Let us know how well the transaction met your expectation. I've bidded on a couple of vehicles on Ebay but did not win the auction - well I did win one auction for a 1999 Trooper but not the reserve.

    BTW, what tires were those 265/75/16's that you put on the SLX? My sons 1998 Trooper we purchased 2 weeks ago has 2 'Trail Mark' tires on the front and a Dunlop and a Goodyear on the rear - all 245's. The two 'Trail Mark' tires are in very good shape and I either need to get 2 more 'Trail Mark' tires or a whole new set. Do you know who sells 'Trail Mark' tires?
  • doublesharpdoublesharp Member Posts: 32
    I put on Firestone Destination LE. My local dealer had them on sale 4 for $320 mounted, balanced with tax included. I like em fine and they really fill the wheel well and make the truck stand tall. The 2wd has nearly new 255/70/16 Michelins. I'm not familiar with Trail Mark tires.

    You want to see what I bought go to Ebay motors and do a search by item number. I'm # 2476061730. I've bought 5 vehicles on ebay counting this one. I went with the $500 delivery. Should be here middle of next week. Tomorrow I'm going to West Palm Beach Fl to pick up a Lexus GS 400 ebay # 2474469947. got my fingers crossed there too.
  • cwmcwm Member Posts: 42
    Looks great. They made some nice changes for 2000 over 1999. I note that they have some wood trim on the steering wheel now and that the cup holders have been moved on the center console. The white color with silver trim was my #1 choice but I could not find that color combo in the Luxury version and decided on my Red Trooper.
  • seanreidseanreid Member Posts: 152
    Hi,

    I'm looking at a 98 SLX which I'm told is in very good shape overall. (It's in VA so I can't look at it right away). The rear seatback angle adjustment knobs seem to have been chewed up by a dog somewhat. Does anyone have a moment to take a quick look at their trooper to tell me if those knobs seem easily replaceable (is there a screw in center of each, or...) Thanks,

    Sean
  • seanreidseanreid Member Posts: 152
    Please comment/advise:

    It looks like tomorrow I'll close a deal on a 1999 Trooper (Luxury Package)with about 62K miles. I'm planning to buy it from a Lexus dealer in MA and it's currently in my driveway so that I can have it checked out by my mechanics tomorrow ASAP. Then its got to go back to the dealer to wrap up paperwork, etc. My mechanics are good guys but they don't have a lot of Trooper experience so please help me out with the following if you can: The only problem I've found with the vehicle is that it tends (50% of the time) to *slam* into TOD mode with a shudder (worse at 50-60 mph but present even at 30MPH, sometimes a loud "clunk"). The tires are almost new all around and I'll measure them tomorrow but it seems they are the same size. TOD does engage, TOD lights seem correct, but there's a distinct whine from the drivetrain in TOD.

    My first two suspects are the condition/level of the SOTF fluid or TOD fluid. Please help me with the basics.
    1. Where does the TOD fluid fill and drain (or is this obvious?) Does it use Dextron III ATF? Is the level correct when the fluid is at the upper threads of the fill hole?
    2. Where does the SOTF fluid fill and drain (or is this obvious?) Does it use hyphoid oil? If so, what grade? How does one check for correct level?
    3. Propeller shaft needs relube?

    There's free beer down the road to anyone who helps me figure this out! This is not a typo.

    The truck had just one owner who did most of the maintenance himself. I spoke with him by phone this evening and he seemed very straightforward. He traded the truck in last fall so I figure he was free to be honest with me about it as the sale has nothing to do with him now. Bearings were supposedly repacked at 30K and 60K. Brakes were done (front rotors and pads, rear pads only) at about 60K (receipts in truck). Tires seem almost new. Oil was reportedly changed every three-thousand miles. The timing belt has not yet been done (what does this usually cost to do...$300 ish?) and the valves haven't been checked (although they aren't noisy). Tranny has not yet been power flushed (OK to do this for the first time at 62K?) The truck has not yet been through the Lexus shop but I think I'd rather cut a deal with them where the sales department pays my mechanics for any needed work (instead of their own service people). It might save them money and I'd know who was working on my truck. Intake manifold gasket was done in January of 2003.

    Running down the maintenance items from the book:

    1. Front and rear axle oil change: I beleive this was done at 30K, will check condition, smell, etc.
    2. air filter: will check
    3. spark plugs: haven't been done, thought perhaps I'd do them now lest they be seized in at 100K
    4. change coolant: may have been done, probably should be done now
    5. Timing belt: not yet done, likely OK until 75,000?
    6. Valve clearances: not yet checked, don't seem noisy
    7. Tire rotation: nearly new tires
    8. repack front bearings: apparently done at 30K and 60K
    8. clean radiator core and A/C condenser: Do they mean the fins? What's needed here?
    9. Battery fluid level: will check, seems to have newish battery
    10. Coolant level: will check
    11. brake and clutch fluid level: will check
    12. Check for fluid leaks: will check
    13. change oil and filter: will do
    14. check hoses: will do
    15. check exhaust: will do
    16. check fuel line, cap, tank: will do
    17. check drive belt: will do, when do folks normally replace these - just by visual inspection?
    18. check tires and wheels: A-OK
    19. check steering: slight pull to right, may need alignment, Lexus dealer will pay
    20. check brake lines and hoses: will do
    21. check brakes: should be like new, will check
    22. check brake pedal free play: seems fine
    23. change power steering fluid: ??
    24. check parking brake: will do
    25. lube accel. linkage: where? at pedal pivot?
    26. check suspension and steering: new shocks and poly bushings coming sometime this spring
    27. lube body and chassis: will do
    28. lube rear propeller shaft: will do (could this be related to TOD clunking?)
    29. check prop shaft flange torque: what's the proper torque setting?
    30. check TOD fluid: maybe change it?
    31. check SOTF gear oil: maybe change it, where is the unit? Do I recall correctly that it's part of the drivetrain to the left front wheel?
    32. check cruise control linkage and hose
    33. check starter safety switch: OK
    34. check accel. linkage: will do
    35: lube key lock cylinder: will do

    Any advise/ideas? I'm all ears and especially interested in knowing what might cause a TOD engagement clunk.

    Thanks!

    Sean

    The truck seems tight and solid overall, interior is in excellent shape and exterior has just some scratches here and there. The dealership includes a 4500 mile warranty that seems to cover most of the major components. At $10,000 it seems like a good deal.
  • myhuns2myhuns2 Member Posts: 2
    I own a 1999 Acura SLX ( a re-packeged trooper). Same car with a Acura emblem on it. I wouldn't buy another Acura or Isuzu product in this lifetime. I have been trying to get Acura to stand behind their warranty for over a year with no progress. Mine had less than 50,000 miles on it ....was still in warranty.... but they claim my oil consumption of 1 qt per thousand miles is normal for my vehicle.
    Read the town hall oil consumption problems for Isuzu.
  • seanreidseanreid Member Posts: 152
    myhuns, thanks for the warning. Actually, I owned another 1999 (totalled when an elderly man turned left in front of it while it was being driven by a friend) and liked it very much. Have you tried a replacement PCV? I know about the oil consumption but like the vehicle anyway.

    I do really need some help on this TOD clunk though, anyone?

    Sean
  • tkevinblanctkevinblanc Member Posts: 356
    I'd be worried about the clunking/slamming into TOD. It can't be good. My 1998 is silent upon engaging TOD (although there is a very slight driveline noise once it's in TOD). On the other hand, I can't say that I've ever engaged TOD at a speed higher than 30 MPH.

    I have a friend with a 98 SLX. He had to have the trasmission rebuilt at about 55K. It's the only thing that worries me about my Trooper.
  • bawbcatbawbcat Member Posts: 118
    I have a 98 Troop with 4x4, AT, TOD and 59k miles. I've recently noticed a clicking sound coming from the front end when turning the wheels to the right. It is NOT a CV joint, because I have manual hubs installed and the sound is the same regardless of whether the hubs are locked or unlocked. It is not just a rock or nail in the tire. I hear it when TOD is off and hubs unlocked, so I really don't think it has anything to do with the front driveline. The only other thing I can think of is a wheel bearing. I don't know if they have ever been repacked. Any other thoughts on what it might be? Thanks!
  • cwmcwm Member Posts: 42
    I have a 1999 Trooper (Luxury) and a 1998 Trooper (Luxury). Neither of them "slam" or "thunk" when I press the TOD button. But, there is a roar in TOD with the 1998. I think that is because there are 3 different manufacturers tires on it. Tommorrow, that will be verified when I get the tire issue worked out.

    I like Isuzu Troopers and think they are great vehicles. Some of them do burn oil between oil changes but to me that issue is not a show stopper.

    Was that list of 35 items the 60K service? If so, I also need to do it as my 1999 has 65k on it. Too bad we don't live closer together as we can get these Troopers side by side and do the maintenance assembly line style.
  • serranotserranot Member Posts: 113
    Sean - my '99 might or might not clunk when TOD engages. Sometimes it does and sometime it doesn't. Things that help mitigate the clunk:

    1. Check the transmission and transfer case mount bolts. Mine were loose when I bought the thing brand new. Having those tightened up helped a lot.

    2. Do not engage TOD unless you are driving in a straight line. If the front axle shafts are turning at different rates when TOD is engaged, you are guaranteed a clunk. This, however, will not always prevent a clunk.

    Regarding the transfer case whine, they all whine a little bit if you listen carefully. It shouldn't be a roar in your ears, but keep in mind you are sitting on top of a transmission that probably contains a multirow chain or some large gears swirling in Dexron II, not gear lube. They will make some noise.

    I don't think you will ever achieve a seamless transition. If you do consistently, I would worry that TOD is not engaging properly.

    Regards,
    Tom
  • seanreidseanreid Member Posts: 152
    I had the truck checked out by my mechanic today and then drove it back to MA and bought it for $10K. It seems like a good vehicle for the money, has a 2500 mile powertrain (plus various items) warranty and the dealership gave me an excellent trade allowance for my 2002 Avalanche. (Yes, I traded "down" financially. We have been making payments on four vehicles (business and personal), one less vehicle with payments is a good thing). If this one holds up and is reliable, it will be a bargain - all the luxury bells and whistles for 10K.

    I was unable to duplicate the TOD clunk today and wonder if, without realizing it, I was engaging TOD with the wheels turned a bit (sometimes) last night. I was tired, it was a long drive, etc. Maybe I wasn't being careful enough. Or, maybe it hadn't been used much in months of sitting at the dealership (very possible) and needed some exercise. I also think I'm going to make a practice of engaging TOD only at very slow speeds (or when stopped). It certainly can't hurt to lessen the load on the drivetrain that way. My mechanic, who's worked on all of our vehicles, thinks "shift on the fly", in any form, is hard on the drivetrain even though the manufacturers may say its OK.

    This "new" Trooper has new tires all around as well as new front rotors and pads. The rear pads are also new but my mechanic thinks the rear rotors are no good. So, after some negotiating with the Lexus dealership, they agreed to give me a check for $400 to be used with my mechanic for a rear brake job (about $300) and towards a full fluids change. My inclination is to change all fluids. ie: power flush the tranny, change to Mobil 1 engine oil and filter, put fresh ATF in TOD unit, fresh synthetic hyphoid oil in front SOTF, fresh synthetic in both diffs. Does that make sense? That way I'll be starting out with new tires, new brakes and fresh fluids. I'll have them look at the coolant and see if that's worth flushing too (anyone have advice on that?) Naturally, we'll grease the driveshaft fittings and all the other grease points. I'll also do the serpentine belt because the truck is on its first belt still (I was told).

    Does anyone have a source for good rotor prices? Are stock rotors best or are there better aftermarket options? NAPA rotors OK?

    Isuzu specs timing belt replacement as 75,000 - 100,000 miles (depending on driving conditions). Is there any need to do it earlier?

    cwm - My list is sort of a 60K service but it's a homebrew list I put together based on looking at the manual and thinking about my specific truck. A trooper wrenching party would be great.

    Where the heck is the ATF fill bolt on the tranny? Same question for TOD unit. My mechanic and I were both under the truck today (on a lift) and couldn't find either one. We ignorant folks need some enlightening.

    Does Haynes or Clymer make a repair manual that covers a 99 trooper? I'll check Amazon.

    Thanks for the replies so far, I'm all ears (well, not quite like Ross Perot but my ears are wide open)

    Cheers,

    Sean
  • seanreidseanreid Member Posts: 152
    they seemed tight

    thanks,

    Sean
  • seanreidseanreid Member Posts: 152
    My first tank of gas (midgrade) with the "new" Trooper gave me 19.4 mpg in a mix of highway (mostly) and back road driving.

    Sean
  • serranotserranot Member Posts: 113
    Agreed that the slower you are going, the less stress you will put on the drivetrain. You will rarely, if ever, get a clunk when you are going slowly.

    If I recall, the TOD drain and fill bolts are on the back side of the transfer case. Again, if memory serves, they are both similar to gas or pipe bolts, in that they have a square opening (for use with a 3/8 ratchet or extension) and are tapered so they get tighter as you thread them in. The drain is obviously toward the bottom of the transfer case, the fill bolt about 1/2 way up. The TOD takes Dexron II ATF. There is no separate transfer case lube--it's all one housing.

    I believe the ATF fill bolt is somewhere on the pan, but I have never cracked it open so that's a shot in the dark.

    Regards,
    Tom
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    My '99S clunks in specific circumstances at anything above 20 MPH. Basically if I have been driving for a while (more than 20 minutes) in 2wd and then engage TOD it clunks and does not sound good.

    Normally it goes in fine, like if I pull out and it is raining hard and then decide to engage right away, even up to 50 MPH. What my theory is, and I found some "web-facts" confirming this a long, long time ago was that the heat and speed at which the front end (axle, hubs, etc.) will be less than the rear after an extended period of driving in 2wd. So the system is out of sync when you engage.

    I have confirmed this by having it clunk when engaging and then continuing driving for a longer while, once everything seemingly is the same temp I can engage and disengage quietly. So my solution is to be aware of the "feature" and when hot, or coming off a highway trip I wait for a stoplight to engage.

    I have have my fluids changed/flushed/checked often, so I don't think it is a fluid problem. Axle and differential at 15 and 30K as well as trans and TOD. I do a lot of offroading so I try to keep the drivetrain happy.
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    A friend on mine just picked up a 2000 with just under 50K on it. The 1999 warranty says it transfers to all original and subsuquent owners. I am pretty sure the 2000 warranty transfers, but I think it drops to 5 yr/60K on the subsequent owners? Can anyone with a 2000 confirm or deny?
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Picked up a set of rear rotors at autozone for like $40/each so far 50K miles and they are good. For pads I like OEM from St. Charles, 50K+ on this set of pads.

    -mike
  • cwmcwm Member Posts: 42
    Follow up: I replaced 2 tires so that now all 4 are matching and the TOD roaring noise has disappeared.
  • cwmcwm Member Posts: 42
    I note a number of Isuzu Shop repair manuals on EBAY. The manuals are on CDROM and the price is right. Has anyone purchased one of these and was it as you expected?
  • bawbcatbawbcat Member Posts: 118
    Beware, I think a lot of the CD manuals for sale on Ebay are illegal copies burned on CD-R.
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Member Posts: 377
    All this discussion got my curiosity up, so I decided to try shifting my TOD at speed this morning for the 1st time in a long time.

    Driving a straight line at 40 mph transfer was seamless, just a little whine in the driveline after it engaged. Later engaged TOD again at 60 mph and same response, no clunk or noise at all, just a increase in hum from the driveline. Very pleased with this performance. This a a solid machine ISUZU makes.

    Seanreid, you got a great deal on your 99'. Just about 2 years ago I had to give $18000 for the same truck you gave $10000 for. They are a real value in todays car market. Anyone wanting one and NOT getting it now is just plain stupid!! I'm really impressed with your MPG on the 99' model. I've tried hard to get numbers like that, but its really rare. I can achieve that at reasonable speeds on the Interstate during long road trips, but NEVER in combined city/hwy driving. Congratulations on your purchase!
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    I always wonder if those CD manuals on the auction sites are generic with some vehicle specific info - like those manuals from the auto parts store vs a factory manual.

    Still around Ryanendres?

    Steve, Host
  • seanreidseanreid Member Posts: 152
    It was great to check into the list this morning and read these responses. Point by point, and not in order:

    Warranty Question: It's my understanding that the 100/120K powertrain warranty can only transfer to immediate family members. I looked into it when I was shopping.

    Clunking: It didn't clunk at all yesterday but I am certainly going to try to switch into TOD only at lower speeds whenever possible.

    Gas Mileage: There are no cities of any reasonable size where I live so I rarely drive in any kind of traffic. My 19.4 mpg reflected about 60% highway miles and 40% backroads. I was very pleased though because I had only expected 18 mpg.

    Rotors: Paisan/Mike, that's half the price I expected to pay. Do you recall anything about the manufacturer of those rotors? If they've been good for 50K, I'm in.

    Fill and drain holes: After I posted, I discovered that these locations are shown in the manual so we should be able to find them next week.

    I think this is a lot of vehicle for $10,000. I figured 62K wasn't *that* high a mileage. I always try to buy used vehicles with as low mileage as possible specifically to reduce the amount of miles the vehicle might have been driven without maintenance. The prior owner of this 99 said he was very careful about maintenance but I think he and I must have a different idea of what careful maintenance is. The fluids seemed OK (nothing black, only slight smells) but the S-belt, for example, was in horrible shape. I swapped it last night for a Goodyear belt (a straightforward process). There's a lot of surface rust on components under the vehicle but that happens eventually to all New England vehicles. Knock wood, but in the past I've seen that kind of surface rust get real ugly but never cause a functional problem. I hope that's the case here. I always try to rinse the underbody of my cars and trucks during the winter if possible.

    Next week I had planned to do (or have my mechanic do) the following: replace rear rotors and pads, grease the various fittings, change air filter, change TOD ATF fluid, change to Mobil One and NAPA gold (Wix) oil filter and replace both differential and SOTF oils with synthetic. The big question in my mind is whether or not I should have the tranny flushed. Based on posts from this list as well as others, it does seem clear that some trannies (which are flushed for the first time above 50-60K) fail - supposedly because of the various gunk that can get forced into (and clog) small openings. I can try to call the owner but for now I'll assume the tranny fluid has not yet been changed or flushed. If this really is the first tranny fluid service, I'm tempted to just drain the pan and torque converter (if possible) and physically clean the filter screen. Any and all advice on this is most welcome. (The truck now has 63K)

    Spark Plugs: I thought I might pull these now, check them and coat the threads with a little antiseize. Does that makes sense? Has anyone figured out how to remove those plug boots/etc. without damaging them? Is it just a matter of undoing those two screws and then pulling/twisting gently while praying?

    Timing Belt: Is there any reason to swap it before 75K? This vehicle has no trailer hitch (yet) and may have never done any towing.

    Coolant: Is it worth having this flushed or do I run the same risks as flushing the tranny? What about a simple drain and fill of the radiator?

    Lube rear propeller shaft: this mention in the manual just refers to greasing, right?

    Check prop shaft flange torque: anyone know the torque setting for this?

    Clean radiator core and A/C condenser: Do they mean the fins? What's needed here?

    Thanks for all the help. I'll try to return the favor over time.

    Cheers,

    Sean
  • seanreidseanreid Member Posts: 152
    Thanks to Paisan's advice (in 2002) I bought a Hidden Hitch for my first 1999. When I came up to look at the vehicle in Quebec (after the accident) I removed the accessory items that the insurance quote wouldn't reflect, ie: Hidden Hitch, tubular side steps, rear cargo matt, etc.
    Those have just been in storage since 2002 but the cargo matt is a perfect match for the "new" 99's interior and I'll mount the Hidden Hitch soon. The vehicle came with factory running boards so I won't need the tubular side steps. Maybe sell on E-Bay or is there a Trooper accessory classifieds site somewhere?

    Cheers,

    Sean Reid
    [email protected]
  • seanreidseanreid Member Posts: 152
    I don't know if anyone else on the list is in to music/audio but I did a high end audio custom install with the Avalanche. When I delivered the truck Thursday night, I spent two hours pulling out all the gear and putting the stock pieces back in. When I have time, I'm going to install the system in the Trooper. If anyone's interested, I'll do a how-to web page with pics. The install will involve:

    1. lining both surfaces of the doors with "Brown Bread" acoustic matting

    2. Running a fused power wire for the amp directly to the battery

    3. Installing higher gauge speaker wire to the front doors.

    4. Venting the hidden compartment under the rear seats and then mounting a McIntosh power amp in it.

    5. Pulling the stock head unit and changer and replacing with my DIN Eclipse CD/Tuner head unit

    6. Replacing the front drivers with my CDT components and crossovers(see http://www.cdtaudio.com)

    7. Replacing the rear speakers with CDT drivers

    Anyone else on the list into car audio? I hadn't done a custom installation in years when I did the AV in 2002 but it was so much fun I want to do it again.

    The stock speaker locations in the Trooper are exceptionally good, especially the those rear speakers high up in the C pillars which orient the speakers much better than rear door mounting ever could.

    I'm not into Rap, etc. but I do like to hear the low notes on a piano or a bass and so was really pleased to find out (with the AV) that the CDT drivers were pulling beautifully down to about 35hz once the doors were damped. In other words, there was no need for a subwoofer. I think the same may be true in the Trooper.

    Cheers,

    Sean
  • cwmcwm Member Posts: 42
    I've got a rattle, more like a scraping noise, in our just purchased 1998 Trooper. We found a loose heat shield on the exhaust pipe and removed it thinking that was the problem. But now the rattle is still there. It seems to come and go by cycling the AC on and off. But, its not consistent and sometimes it will cause the rattle to go away and other tmies cause it to reoccur. We first thought that the AC being on or off changed the vibration of the engine rattling a loose part.

    Anyone have a problem like this?
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Member Posts: 377
    I just did mine a few weeks ago at about the same mileage as your 99' and I wish I hadn't waited so long. There was quite a bit of torque required to get them out. There was some metal shaving visible when I removed them and they came out 'hard' most of the way. Obviously there was some seizing taking place. The plug gaps had widened to about .080" but you would never know it by the performance of the vehicle. I replaced the plugs with Platinum Lazer NGK's. That plug over by the brake vacuum booster is a 'bad boy'. You'll need several various length extensions to get that plug out.

    As far as the rubber boots go, there is NO guarantee you won't have a problem. I had one that did NOT want to come out no matter how I tried. It did finally give up but it took some serious twisting and looked deformed by the time I got it out. It did work fine after it was reinstalled. PRAY real hard when you start taking them off. Hope you don't break one as Pasain can attest to.

    Never sieze is a MUST for plug re-installation. You might want to put a dab of it on the rubber boot to prevent future sticking as well.
  • dmitrydmitry Member Posts: 3
    Just bought a 2000 Isuzu Trooper with 43,000 miles on it. Drives excellent. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&cate- gory=6269&item=2476619312&rd=1
    Saw it on Ebay, just so happend that this truck was on my way home. Clean as can be! Can't wait to take it off road. I came out of a lease; 2000 Mitsubishi Montero XLS. Didn't like it too much though... Absolutely zero power! The Trooper has been maintained exceptionaly well. The horse power is definitely a plus. Handles great and no pulling to any side.
    PS: Sean, when are we going off-roading? How about 3 weeks from now?
  • cwmcwm Member Posts: 42
    In the Trooper, are the spark plugs under the black square coils? Is it simply a matter to unscrew the coils and find the spark plugs underneath?
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I ruined at least 1 of the $75 wires when I tried to pull them off, then decided I'd just let the dealer do it, worth every penny.

    -mike
  • cwmcwm Member Posts: 42
    How did you ruin the wires?
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I ruined one wire @ $75 because it wouldn't come off the plug and when I twisted it it tore the boot. Decided that the $150 to have the dealer do it was worth it cause at my luck I'd ruin more than 2 boots costing $150 and still not have the plugs done!

    -mike
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    any luck with improved mileage. I am getting 11 MPG around town on a good day. (that is using the larger tire calculation also).
  • linux_geeklinux_geek Member Posts: 1
    I purchased a new keyless remote and the dealer closed before I could get my remote programmed.

    I am not having any luck finding any instructions for the 1995 trooper.

    Thanks in advance.

    OT
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    IMHO there is something terribly wrong to cause that. Are you sitting at lights more than moving? Are you a real lead foot (brakes go bad quickly also)? Is the town all steap hills and you carry a heavy load all the time? Have you got a trailer on it?
    ..
    Is there a poor alignment causing much more than normal friction? Is the tire pressure too low? Try parking on level ground, put it in neutral and push it by yourself, do this also with another higher mpg Trooper. If there is no problem pushing it manually maybe the problem is in the engine or transmission. Is your air filter stopped up? Or air flow sensor giving a signal like there's lots more air than you have so the computer adds more fuel? Are your exhausts freely moving?
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    That's about what I get around town.

    -mike
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I had some exhaust flutter on saturday when towing up to Pocono for the HPDE. So I figure I'll check it when I get a chance. Well yesterday the exahust pipe on the left side became disconnected from the manifold! It was sitting on the cross member.

    Not bad timing though, I dropped it off at a local shop to get it taken care of and at the same time I'll get my shocks and springs put in :)

    Anyone know if the tight coils go on the top or bottom of the coil springs?

    -mike
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    Larger tires, ARB BullBar, and roof rack is the only thing I can guess. I adjust the mileage calculation for the larger tires, but if they have extra weight it could drop the mileage by 1, maybe the 80 lbs. bullbar takes another 1 mpg away? and the roof rack? I have a very short commute, so startup, 5 miles and shutoff. I have been very careful during the last tank regarding stopping and starting because it is easy to be a lead foot with all the torque off the line.

    Once my garage is cleaned out I will take the roof rack off and see if that makes a difference? It certainly does on the highway, but around town I don't go over 40.

    I wonder about the plugs because of the oil burn, even though I burn less than others on this board, it is possible the plugs are not firing as good as they can due to buildup?
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    assuming $2/gallon for fuel
    1000 miles @ 11mpg cost $181.82
    1000 miles @ 16mpg cost $125.00
    ..
    The difference is $56.82
    Assume half of that is the extra weight and therefore extra energy to spin up the biger tires.
    Big tire weight cost $28.41 per 1000 miles.
    ..
    Now what if the steel belts in those big tires were bullet proof kevlar instead, IMHO the reduced weight where it counts at the tread would remove 2/3 of the cost of heavier tires or $19 / 1000 miles.
    ..
    If you use a set of tires for 40000 miles that's a savings of 40*19 = $760. That's $190 per tire in savings.
    ..
    How many of you would consider buying kevlar tires that cost twice as much as steel belted ones in order to save money over time?
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I don't think i've ever seen that even stock when it was new around town.

    My 275-70-16 tires are significantly heavier than the stock ones. I'm thinking that is a big portion along with my ARB, and 1-2" lift and my lead foot.

    My friend drove it for a week and didn't complain about the milage at all. He is significantly gentler on the gas and brakes than I am.

    -mike
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Picked up the Trooper after having the OME Expedition Springs and the HD Shocks put in. OMG! Rides like when it was new again. So far very happy with the new setup, well worth the $.

    More details as I use it some more.

    -mike
  • cwmcwm Member Posts: 42
    I need HD Shocks for both our 1999 and 1998 Troopers. About how much is it going to set me back?
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I believe the OMEs cost me ~$70/each from rockyroad outfitters. I bought the package of springs and shocks for around $450ish. I'll see if I can find the link for yah.

    -mike
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    and as the tire diameter gets bigger the effect of the tire weight on the energy needed to spin them up (and more energy to slow them down maybe giving longer stopping distance) is magnified since a big part of that weight is at the tread.
    ..
    stock P245/70/16 tires are around 30 to 33 lbs.
    larger LT245/75/16C are around 40 lbs.
    larger LT245/75/16E are around 48 lbs.
    larger LT265/75/16C must be 50++ lbs.
    IMHO P275/70/16 would be similar to lt265/75/16C
    ..
    For some reason, tire weights are not easy to find on the internet. I got the weights for some sizes of ATRevos 30K miles ago from the store, they have a book to figure out shipping charges.
    ..
    I would really like a larger set of tires, but I fear the cost in mpg not just the $$$ of the fuel, but the hard time my wife will give me about the mpg. Now with 255/70/16 I am getting about the same 16.7 MPG around town as she gets with the minivan, if that were 11mpg she would be all upset and I would never hear the end of how nice it would be to get a higher mpg vehicle, like a 4cyl. Saturn sedan she would rather have. We test drove that Saturn 4cyl. large size sedan once last year after my 1995 Trooper was totalled, it was totally gutless, worse than my 1984 1.9L Trooper, lacking the torque that I have become accustomed to with my Troopers. Flipside: if the Diesel Troopers finally get available after 2006 in the USA I can use her mpg sensitivity to help me get a diesel.
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