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Isuzu Trooper

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Comments

  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    That's why as soon as I can afford a used Duramax Diesel, I will be getting one and giving my Trooper to my dad.

    -mike
  • dnestrdnestr Member Posts: 188
    If I'm converting from metric system correct, then I get 17,8 MPG around town (we have a hard traffic here in Moscow City, just the average speed is about 5 m/h) and 23,2 MPG on a highway (80 m/h). I consider it to be tolerable for a middle sized diesel truck. BTW, mine has 245/70/16.
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    I have P265/70...I figure that in about 10-15K they should be close to brand new stock tires given the tread wear. I am at 10K now. I think 11 vs. 16 around town isn't the tires. Just could be a combination of things. I wish Isuzu put a small V8 in with more HP. I think the weight vs. power change would result in a little better performance and possibly slightly better MPG. The V6 has a lot of go to it, but it probably has to work harder to move the 5000 lbs than a V8 would?

    Shocks...www.rocky-road.com
  • doublesharpdoublesharp Member Posts: 32
    Help. My 2000 Limited 2wd came in about 9 pm last night. Looks great, runs great but the first time I opened the moonroof all the way it stuck and won't close. Wish I'd stopped at the first position but I opened it all the way. Glad I've got a garage because it's raining here today. It moves forward about 3 inches and then stops. It will then move back but when you try to close it it stops after about a 3" travel. Anybody been through this before? This is one of the downsides of ebay. I haven't talked to the seller yet but I imagine I'm on my own although I haven't left feedback yet. Any advice appreciated.
  • raydahsraydahs Member Posts: 449
    Hopefully you got a owners manual, it will explain how to shut it manually. If not, on the headliner behind the sunroof you'll see a plastic plug, pull it off and you should have a key supplied with the vehicle to turn it manually. Being a Ebay car it could be missing, I keep mine under the back seat storage compartment. You could probably find something in the mean time to close it if the tool is missing.
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Member Posts: 377
    I decided to pull the EGR valve on my 01' Troop and see how dirty it was, to make a comparison to the EGR removed from my 99' Trooper. After taking it off, I noticed there was a little carbon buildup, but not what I saw on the 99' EGR. I also noted that the mandral would move freely in and out if pressed inward with a small screwdriver. It appears to have a spring return to closed position. The spring action pushed the mandrel back out against the seat. I also noted that the mandrel can be turned like a screw with a torx driver, and that it should rotate freely. I tried that on the EGR from my 99' but it was not free to move. It wouldn't return to seat by itself either. The carbon buildup on it was so thick, it made the mandrel 'sticky'. That explains the CEL and why the dealer just replaced the EGR valve.

    I got my carb cleaner out and squirted the EGR from the 01' down real good and let the chamber 'soak' a bit. Then I took a brass wire brush and cleaned the valve seat area 'hole' and the mandrel real good so the metal was visible again. As it turns out, there was quite a bit of carbon buildup on these. After a thorough cleaning I decided to check the chamber on the engine. I squirted it down good and noticed the backwash of brown/black liquid coming out to the outside. I then took an airline and blew the chamber out to dry it and reinstalled the EGR valve. Started up the engine, and everything was fine!

    After that I decided to see if I could get the same results on the EGR valve from the 99' Trooper. I filled its chamber full of carb cleaner and let it soak a bit. After rotating the mandrel several turns and pressing in and out on it, it came free! Another soak or two, and its working as freely as the one I had cleaned from the 01'. I would have no reservations putting this valve back into either of the Troopers in the future, which I plan to do if necessary. There was a significant amount of carbon buildup in this older valve. It had about 60K miles of service on it, whereas the 01' had about 32K miles of service. I would recommend the valve get a cleaning about every 30K miles from what I saw on these two. Its really a quick easy service to perform, just be careful not to damage that grafoil material gasket on the intake housing.
  • seanreidseanreid Member Posts: 152
    I'd really appreciate it if anyone can help me answer the three maintenance questions below (1999 Trooper with TOD), either on list or directly at [email protected]

    1. Does the front differential have a drain? I've heard both that it doesn't and that it does (disguised as a cover bolt at about 5:00 on the differential)

    2. Is the fill opening for the transmission the 19mm bolt in the right rear corner of the pan? If not, where exactly is that fill? The drain must be the 19mm bolt in the center rear of the pan, right?

    3. The Trooper manual discusses maintenance for the SOTF oil. Is this the little transfer case on the left front driveshaft? If so, where/how does that drain? Does it use GL5?

    Many thanks,

    Sean
  • doublesharpdoublesharp Member Posts: 32
    Look in the book as a last resort. I found the tool and was able to get about a halfturn counter clockwise and then the motor worked ok. Didn't malfunction again but I didn't take it to the limit either, really no reason to open it all the way unless you're hauling a sofa or something, haha. Thanks for the tip. By the way I'd called the ebay seller and he said get it fixed and fax him the bill. Guess that's how he gets such good feedback and is a power seller. Dreamfinders is ebay handle and Kenny Wright is the man.
  • raydahsraydahs Member Posts: 449
    Wow, that's great the guy stands behind his deals. This could have put a damper on a real good buy. I open mine all the way at least 3 times a week. The fun part is when your stuck in traffic and the smaller car occupants look up through it, the look on thier faces are laughable:)
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Yup it's one of the cover bolts.

    ATF, I let the dealer do it, due to no dip-stick/filler, royal PITA.

    SOTF, when you find out post up cause I want to do it too.

    -mike
  • seanreidseanreid Member Posts: 152
    Thanks for the reply Paisan.

    I spoke to some very helpful folks at St. Charles Isuzu and learned the following.

    1. SOTF oil change - this does seem to apply specifically to the transfer case on a non-TOD Trooper. It apparently does not apply to TOD Troopers.

    Sidenote: The unit on the front left driveshaft seems to be fed oil from the front differential. It apparently has just one access hole which supposedly can be used with a syphoning device to remove GL5 oil during an front diff. oil change. In other words, draining the front differential (more below) doesn't remove the residual oil which is retained in this unit. For a very thorough differential oil change, one can both drain the front diff and syphon this other unit.

    2. There apparently *is* a drain on the front differential and it's a 12mm (head) bolt (with two washers) located at about 5:00 on the rear of the front differential. It's apparently shorter than the other bolts (which have single washers) on that cover. I'm told that the factory may seal this opening with a little silicon so it may need to be physically opened up after the bolt is removed.

    3. The tranny fill bolt location is surprising because its on the pan itself and seems like it could be a drain bolt. The actual drain bolt is in the rear center of the tranny pan. The fill bolt is in the right rear corner of pan (where it angles up). Both drain and fill use 19mm hex bolt.

    I can't vouch for any of the above yet because the truck has not been back up on a lift since I did this research. Tomorrow AM I can check some of this out.

    Today I had many things done on the Trooper including new rear rotors and pads, oil change with Mobil One 10W-30 and Wix filter, TOD ATF changed, Valvoline 75-90 synthetic (plus antislip additive) in rear diff. and a transmission flush.

    About that last item...I discussed the tranny flush several times with my mechanic and he believes it was OK to do because the test fluid he drained from the tranny wasn't especially dirty or smelly. He has sometimes discouraged people with high mileage vehicles from doing the flush. I know there are many debates on doing a first tranny flush at 63K but I decided to trust my mechanic who has taken good care of our vehicles for several years. Hopefully it wasn't a mistake to do it. The machine basically just connects to the tranny lines and feeds fresh ATF into the tranny while removing the old ATF. It uses the truck's own ATF pump to make this transfer and so (as I understand it) shouldn't put any more pressure stress on the seals than normal idling would. Supposedly, it removes exactly as much fluid as it puts in. The concerns I've read about this procedure is that the process can force gunk into small openings in the tranny, clogging them and ruining the transmission. Supposedly, if your fluid is pretty clean that shouldn't be a problem. I think he cycled about 18 quarts of fluid through the system and the change went pretty slowly so obviously the Trooper doesn't have a real high pressure ATF pump. I'll be happy to know the exact tranny fluid level when he checks it tomorrow, however.

    Cheers,

    Sean
  • seanreidseanreid Member Posts: 152
    I do wonder one thing about the tranny flush procedure. Supposedly, it cleans the screen as part of the process. But if there are particles large enough to be trapped against the screen, how would they leave the transmission during a flush. The flow of fluid is being created by the pump and so is moving in the same direction as usual (ie: towards the filter screen) so how could the screen be cleaned. Anyone know?

    Cheers,

    Sean
  • seanreidseanreid Member Posts: 152
    Call me crazy, but I made an appointment with a local private transmission shop to have the tranny fluid changed the old fashioned way (pulling the pan and changing the filter). Does the 4L30E have a metal screen or a paper filter? I thought the first but now I'm not sure.

    It's another $100 but I imagine that between the flush and the traditional fluid/filter change, my transmission should hold up for a long time. The flush should have cleaned the torque converter and the other should deal with the filter. $200 all together for both but that's less than a $2000 tranny.

    Any thoughts?

    Thanks,

    Sean
  • kjmcgirlkjmcgirl Member Posts: 12
    Sean,

    Let me know how it goes. My trooper as 35K on it and I was thinking of having the pan dropped vs. the flush others have discussed. I called 2 Isuzu dealers in DC metro area, and they want $375 for this. Quite pricey indeed.

    -Kevin
  • buranburan Member Posts: 15
    I did my Tranny flush about 1.5 mons & 3k miles ago, so far no problems. it was just a flush no pan drop or screen change. This was done on 2002 Troop 4wd/TOD/Auto at 30k, cost $160 (minus 15 % discount) at the dealer (clarksville,md). when i was shopping around for tranny flush i came accross AAMCO shop, i belive they quote me ~$250 for the flush with filter change or $150 just a flush.
  • troop2shostroop2shos Member Posts: 235
    The term flush to me is a misnomer - I equate the process as a fluid exchange. There is debatable concern of new AT fluid dislodging varnish in a neglected tranny. The use of solvent type additives to "clean" the tranny would pose more of a risk than just using ATF. Many vehicle manufacturers recommend regular fluid exchange intervals. Heat, breaking down the fluid properties, is my concern rather than particulate issues from wear in a closed lube system.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    This I believe is used as a term because it completely removes all the old fluid (including the 5 quarts in the torque converter) versus drain/fill which will not get that stuff out.

    I had to have a $400 drop-pan/filter dealio done at my dealer when I was having tranny issues, however it was worth it cause it runs like new now. I'm going to make sure to get it drained/filled every 20K from now on.

    -mike
  • seanreidseanreid Member Posts: 152
    I think its true that there may be a real difference between a "power flush" (with fluid being forced into the tranny under pressure from an external pump)and a flush (fluid being moved through the tranny using its own pump). The flush cost me $109.00 (with fluids) and the traditional pan and filter service will cost me $100.00. So I figure for $209.00 I will have had a very thorough service done on a $3000 transmission.

    It's the screen/filter issue that nags at me with just the flush. I'm still not sure if the filter in the tranny is a metal screen or a paper element but either way it has trapped various gunk in it/against it, etc. A flush could certainly stir that stuff up but it can't physically force it past the filter. I asked my mechanic this and he didn't have an explanation. He said the rep who sold them the machine said that it cleans the filter as well but I don't buy that and I'm not even sure my mechanic buys it. I don't see how its physically possible. I talked with two tranny shops yesterday afternoon and they both said that while the flush is useful for cleaning the torque converter it can't replace the traditional service. One of them said a flush is like doing an oil change without changing the filter which matches my gut sense.

    So, aside from the extra cost, I would think a flush followed by a pan and filter service would do a very thorough job. It's a bit of a hassle but less so than a tranny replacement.

    Thanks for the replies.

    Cheers,

    Sean
  • tkevinblanctkevinblanc Member Posts: 356
    I would love it if you could describe where the EGR valve is, looking, say, from the front of the engine with the hood open... left or right? What do I have to remove to get to it?
  • doublesharpdoublesharp Member Posts: 32
    I need touch up paint for the beige trim on fender flares and bottom of 2000 trooper. Anybody know the paint code and have any recommendations on where to get the best color match? Thanks
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    dnstr,
    Can you tell me what mpg your diesel Trooper gets at 65 to 70 mph? That is the speed I usually get to drive out on the highways. I suspect that with the Trooper not being very aerodynamic, the mpg difference from 70 mph to 80 mph might be significant.
    ..
    My 5 Spped 2001 Trooper 3.5L gasoline engine gets 21 mpg at 65 to 70 mph, but only 19 mpg when averaging 70 to 75 mph.
    ..
    Thank You
    BoxTrooper
  • tkevinblanctkevinblanc Member Posts: 356
    Can you blame them? If I were buying a vehicle now, I'd be buying differently than I did two years ago.

    I'm fortunate in that I only have a 10 mile per day commute. But, already, I'm opting to take my wife's car on short errands so I don't suffer from 11 MPG performance...

    I hope the prices drop, but I'm not expecting it.

    I wonder how much a Prius can tow... just joking.
  • dnestrdnestr Member Posts: 188
    Boxtrooper, I suppose it would be around 25,7 MPG. Just have never driven so slowly :-). Next month my 5 speed '01 diesel Trooper will do a long trip to Great Lakes. Wait for a while and I'll be able to give you fuller info. Cheers.
  • cwmcwm Member Posts: 42
    dnestr, I note the Russian flag by your handle. I was wondering how a Russian version Trooper differed from American Troopers. I was in St Peterburg, Russia about 13 years ago and noted that you guys drive on the right side of the road like we do. Are the controls labeled in Crylic? Any thing special that Isuzu puts on the Trooper for the Russian market? Got any pictures of your diesel Trooper you can post?
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    Fun Math!
    ..
    200,000 miles at 11mpg at $2/gallon = $36,364.00
    200,000 miles at 13mpg at $2/gallon = $30,769.00
    200,000 miles at 15mpg at $2/gallon = $26,666.00
    200,000 miles at 17mpg at $2/gallon = $23,528.00
    200,000 miles at 19mpg at $2/gallon = $21,052.00
    200,000 miles at 21mpg at $2/gallon = $19,047.00
    200,000 miles at 25mpg at $2/gallon = $18,000.00
    200,000 miles at 29mpg at $2/gallon = $13,793.00
    200,000 miles at 33mpg at $2/gallon = $12,121.00
    200,000 miles at 40mpg at $2/gallon = $10,000.00
    200,000 miles at 50mpg at $2/gallon = $8,000.00
    200,000 miles at 100mpg at $2/gallon = $4,000.00
  • df2000df2000 Member Posts: 60
    This is a trans filter from 4L30E
     http://www.wixfilters.com/filterlookup/PartDetail.asp?Part=58876>

    It is not a screen but metal shell with some porous fitering media(felt) inside.
    I believe if you do some fluid change like flush every 30k mi or drain/fill every 15-20k mi you can probably streach filter change to 100k mi.
    k*girl,at 35k you don't have to change filter.
    I personally do drain/fill once a year, cost me muuuch less than flush, just once $6.00 hand pump from Advance Auto(work actually very well) and 1g of fluid for each change.
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Member Posts: 377
    The EGR valve is located at the very rear of the engine right up on top just to the left side. Its close to the firewall but easy to get to. It has 2 bolts that hold it in place and a multi-pin connector right on top. It is about the diameter of a coke can but about half as tall.

    All this talk about ATF flush or fill seems excessive. I've done the 'fluid exchange' a couple of times, with no negative effects. Once did it at 55000 miles on my 97' Troop and at 32000 miles on my 01' Trooper. It was much cheaper than a drain and fill quote here, $60 vs. $250 for a drain and fill. The drain and fill did not require or provide a replacement of the 'filter'.

    If you're looking for better mpg check out the HP mod talked about in this forum. A simple resistor replacement in place of the IAT has helped me both in performance and in mileage. I'm serious, it sounds too simple, but it does work!

    That 11 mpg city would have me searching for a honda civic or something. With today's gas prices I couldn't stand to do much driving around town.
  • seanreidseanreid Member Posts: 152
    d2000 - thanks for the filter info.

    bsmart1 - the discussion of power flushing, fluid exchange, etc. may seem excessive but there are a few cases on this list of people having had transmissions fail or develop problems after a flush. I err on the conservative side with maintenance, figuring its much cheaper than repairs. If nothing else, its probably useful to see what has worked or not worked for various people. It may be a little nuts for me to have the tranny flushed and then the filter changed but for $210 (total for both) I'll gamble.

    By the way, I get about 16mpg in local driving but then again we don't get much traffic here.
    Does anyone have a link for the HP mod discussion?

    Sean
  • cwmcwm Member Posts: 42
    How do you check the tranny fluid level?

    Is it an opening under neath the Trooper?
  • serranotserranot Member Posts: 113
    '99 Trooper, 55k, first time change of the plugs. Took me about 45 minutes to do all of them. The plug gaps were still right on, pretty impressive. As some have noted, the threads on the plugs were starting to get rusty, so I coated the new ones with anti-seize grease before I put them in.

    The two biggest concerns--getting the coils off of the plugs and doing the plug nearest the brake booster. To get the coils off, I twisted them back and forth a couple of times, but that really does not do much. I used both hands and applied steady pressure and waited for a bit to let the seal between the rubber and the plug loosen a bit. All of them came off without damage. Put some dielectric grease in them before reassembly so that they come off easier next time.

    Here is how I did the last plug. I used one long extension (used for all of the other plugs), two short extensions, and a universal joint extension. To remove the plug, I dropped the plug socket into the hole, then attached the long extension to it, then the ratchet, and then loosened the plug. I then removed the ratchet and extension and replaced the long extension with the two short extensions, connected in the middle with the universal joint. Using this method, you can extract the plug and socket without having the brake booster interfere. Just reverse the process to get the new plug in. The only additional step after removing the long extension after tightening the plug is that you have to use the short extensions to get the plug socket out. Worked fine.

    Overall, not bad. Doing the rear plugs on a transverse GM engine is much worse. Be very careful with the coils--that's the worst part.

    Regards,
    Tom
  • cwmcwm Member Posts: 42
    Serranot, I have never replaced spark plugs in my Trooper. I assume the spark plug is under each coil? Do you have to unbolt anything to remove the coil or are they designed to plug over the top of each spark plug? Be nice to see this in a picture. When I do mine, I'll use my digital camera.
  • seanreidseanreid Member Posts: 152
    cwm,

    As I'm sure you've read, there's no dipstick on this tranny. You check the fluid level just as you would for a differential (ideally with the Trooper up on a lift). The drain bolt is in the center rear of the transmission pan. The fill bolt is also on the tranny pan on the right rear (where there's a bit of a slope). The fluid should be just up to the edge of the filler hole threads when the truck is level. It self corrects if you fill it, of course, because if you add too much it will run back out before you replace the bolt.

    Cheers,

    Sean
  • tkevinblanctkevinblanc Member Posts: 356
    Thanks for the thoughtful explanation. It'll make the job much easier.

    I guess knowledge really is power, huh? :0)
  • crqfliercrqflier Member Posts: 5
    After having a "major service" (30K mile items) performed on my '95 Trooper at the local dealer, I saw my gas mileage drop from about 16-17mpg to around 12mpg. I asked the service manager about this and was told he couldn't imagine what might have happened. Does anyone have any ideas? Also, does anyone know a good place in the San Diego area for Trooper service (i.e. they know Troopers and do a good job)?
  • costello1costello1 Member Posts: 60
    My TOD light came on and started blinking while in 2wd and the check light came on later. When I put it in 4 wd it stops . Is it ok to drive in 2wd with the light on and blinking or should I leave it in 4 wd ??Any info will help , I really don't want to make a trip to the dealer over this unless I have too!!
  • dnestrdnestr Member Posts: 188
    Owing to the fact that my previous 3,5 gasoline '99 Trooper LTD was purchased in Chicago, I could see and compare precisely both Trooper´s gasoline versions: North American and European (=Russian). There are just a few visual differences on exterior.

    1. The rear bumper. The plate sign is located on it, because the small rear door is not enough for long European plates.
    2. The bumper/body plastic black protector is around the body. It´s located on the tan colored part.

    That´s all. No any differences inside. My Diesel has a hood scoop also.

    BTW, we still drive on the right side of the road like you do :-). Other things have changed a bit since. You`re welcome to Russia to see them. Cheers.
  • serranotserranot Member Posts: 113
    To remove the coils, you must remove the wiring harness and then two bolts that hold it in place. To remove the harness, you have to press down on a plastic tab, then slide the connector off the coil. Then you remove the bolts. The only thing here that gave me trouble was the farthest bolt behind the brake booster. Still got it out with a 1/4 inch ratchet and 8mm socket. After that is done, the coil is removed. A long rubber piece with a hole on the end for the spark plug is attached to the bottom of the coil, and it all comes out in one piece. If you pull too hard without giving it a chance to break free of the plug, you run the risk of tearing it. Even if you are careful, it may rip. Just ask Paisan.

    Regards,
    Tom
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Yes be very careful. I'm pretty good with cars but managed to wreck 2 of those coils/plugs.

    -mike
  • cwmcwm Member Posts: 42
    Need a couple of speakers for 1998 Isuzu Trooper. Are there any generic inexpensive speakers that will work as good as the factory ones?
  • seanreidseanreid Member Posts: 152
    The stock speakers are nothing special (at least not in my 99 Ltd). I had them out yesterday while I was measuring for an install and can confirm that they're just the usual mediocre speakers that come OEM from virtually all manufacturers (despite much hype to the contrary in some cases). This has been true in every vehicle I've owned. Any reputable aftermarket 4 ohm 6.5" speakers (assuming these are for the front)will sound as good or better. Keep in mind though that you only have about 2" depth to work with from the speaker flange to the rear basket so your replacement speakers will need to be shallow.

    I'll post details to the list if it turns out that anyone here is interested in audio but I will shortly be pulling out all of the stock components and installing my own audio system. My Trooper has a separate set of stock tweeters mounted in the sail panels but they're just wired in parallel with the stock mid drivers so there's no factory crossover to deal with.

    Cheers,

    Sean
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Member Posts: 377
    After 3 busted knuckles and a bruise or two, I got the spark plugs changed in my 01' Trooper this weekend. Busted knuckle against the firewall on the plug by the brake booster. That bad boy didn't want to come out! The 1st 2 plugs and coil assemblies came out just fine. The threads were not seized in any way, and the boots didn't adhere tot the ceramic on the plug. The 3rd plug by the brake booster was really ugly. 1st the coil pack separated from the boot extension! That brought a sweat. Then I had to use needle nose pliers to get enough 'bite' on the boot to be able to pull it. After twisting and pulling a while, I gave up and moved to another plug to make some progress. That one went fine, so I moved back to the bad boy. More pulling and grunting and sweat and FINALLY it breaks loose, while my knuckles smash into the break booster! The rubber boot stretched about 1" before it gave up. I was worried it would be damaged beyond use, but after inspecting it real close, it looks fine. Turns out 4 of the rubber boots separate from the coil during removal. After looking at them, I realize they are made differently than the ones on my 99' Trooper. These are a 2 piece unit, whereas the older ones are a single piece. Seems the rubber really loves to adhere to the ceramic for some strange reason. Each ringlet on the plug has rubber remains on it. I used a lube on the boots and anti-seize on the plug threads on reassembly to prevent recurrence in the future. The plugs were Champions by the way, not Nippendenso as I would have expected. Got all plugs replaced, fired the engine up and it purred like a kitten! Took off on a test drive, and it ran like a 5 cylinder, terrible performance. Must be a bad plug in the batch, right?? I'll find out later tonight as I have time to troubleshoot and investigate. Will report on my findings.
  • df2000df2000 Member Posts: 60
    A little detail. When open fill plug ENGINE SHOULD
    BE RUNNING or you get shower from 2q of ATF.
    And the book said ATF should be warm(90-140F).
  • wildbucwildbuc Member Posts: 88
    I once had an older Trooper that I had the dealer do a tune-up. After getting it home the Trooper felt sluggish and the gas mileage droppped like a rock. I readjusted the points and that Trooper was fine from then on.
  • wildbucwildbuc Member Posts: 88
    Can anyone here give me link to step by step instructions on changing transmission fluid for a 99 Trooper? I will be adding a transmission cooler soon and need to know how to top it off after installation.
  • seanreidseanreid Member Posts: 152
    df2000 - That's a great tip. It seems that if you drain and fill the trans when its cold, you'll be underfilling. Is that correct?

    If that is right than the correct procedure would be to fill the trans to the fill thread, insert the bolt, start the engine to after its been running for a few minutes, remove the bolt and top off again to the filler thread. Yes?

    Sean

    Cheers,

    Sean
  • seanreidseanreid Member Posts: 152
    I wish I could remember the details about this from doing the install in my first 1999 but I can't recall. I've searched the archives and come up with the following:

    1. My truck has dual diversity antennas in the right and left rear windows. An electrical device (outside the headunit?) determines which of the two has the better signal and chooses the stronger one.

    2. These antennas use a signal amplifier which must be fed power from the "power antenna" blue lead of my Eclipse head unit.

    3. The larger antenna plug goes into the jack on my Eclipse.

    Now the question - does the blue power lead from the Eclipse go to the wire with the smaller plug or to a wire in the vehicle harness (maybe a brown/red stripe wire). If the blue switched power lead goes to the latter (a wire in the vehicle harness), what happens to the smaller plug?

    Thanks,

    Sean
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Member Posts: 377
    I did some research in the Helms factory repair manual on this subject over the weekend. In the troubleshooting charts there is NEVER a correlation drawn between the EGR valve and excessive oil consumption. There IS however a connection drawn between the PCV valve and excess oil consumption. They state that a clogged PCV valve can lead to excessive oil use. Soooo if you're looking at oil consumption problems with your vehicle, look to the PCV instead of the EGR and look for obvious leaks to the outside via gaskets or seals.
  • cwmcwm Member Posts: 42
    Sean, both our Troopers have the diversity antenna. Where is this electical device?
  • cwmcwm Member Posts: 42
    bsmart1, that is interesting about the correlation between the PCV valve and excessive oil consumption. Where is the PCV valve on the Trooper? What does it look like? I am only familar with the old GM cars where the PCV valve plugged into the valve cover with a hose back to the air cleaner.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Gets spliced into the power-antenna lead from your head unit. That's what I did on my trooper.

    -mike
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