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Isuzu Trooper

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Comments

  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    These give a very bouncy ride one after another all three within 100 yards (100m).
    ..
    I wonder how does your OME / Swayaway suspension handle such a set of bumps? Would I be best to get the same that you have or softer to limit the bouncing?
    ..
    Would the setup you have be to stiff when the wife rides along?
    Thank You

    I would go with the HD setup, it's better suited for the Sway Away bars than the softer OME shocks. As for the rear OME 929s and HD shocks, it's near-stock feel on regular roads, my 80 year old grandmother climbs in and doesn't mind the ride now that I switched over from the Rancho 9000s.

    -mike
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    Thanks Paison!
    ..
    I have found that towing with a Trooper is very stable for its size. I have done a lot of camparisons with different tow vehicles and the same boat 4200# trailer and boat. With a lot of emphasis on making things equal and proper weight distribution, people with "luxery" SUVs and "conversion" vans nearly all have complaints about sway and control when being passed or passing a tractor trailer etc... Many of them spend a lot of money in the wrong place by adding second axles and fancy hitch add-ons etc, when they should get good tires with 40+ psi and stiffer springs and shocks and a stiffer frame if possible on the tow vehicle.
    ..
    I think the differences are simple:
    1.) Troopers are trucks, not cars made to look like trucks. True trucks have sturdy load distributing frames and stout suspensions.
    2.) Troopers have decent tires, even the stock ones offer decent control compared to mushy conversion vans with overloaded small 15" car tires.
    2.) Troopers will out tow (better control) larger more powerful tow vehicles with longer wheelbases if those other tow vehicles are built for luxery or converted from light panel vans into heavy conversion vans.
    ..
    To tow as well as a Trooper with an American vehicle the easiest thing is to get a full size pickup - built to truck duty standards.
    ..
    In the UK the Trooper "Duty" is commonly used to tow trailers full of sheep.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    Check Engine light came on today, 5 min into morning drive to work. Solid CEL, not blinking. 98 Troop, TOD, 105k miles. Truck still ran fine today after CEL. No recent issues except uneven/surging idle for past several months when engine fully warm (eg after 30+ min driving). Going to AutoZone today to get codes pulled for free. I'm assuming/hoping this is simply the intake manifold gasket (IMG) needing replacement. Had one done around 50-60k miles, under warranty. Which codes are associated with the IMG problem? How many IMGs are on the 3.5L Trooper engine - 1, or more than 1?

    If the codes sound like IMG problem, I will probably take it to an Isuzu dealer and pay them to fix it. No other options for me - not qualified to do this myself, and I know of no good independent shops around here that could do the work.

    Any other thoughts/suggestions?
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Member Posts: 377
    needed for the wife. What non-adjustable shocks do you guys recommend? If I can't get Paison's used Rancho's.
  • bstone3bstone3 Member Posts: 97
    We installed Rancho 5000's shortly after buying the Trooper - love em - These are gas shocks where the 9000's are adjustable hydraulic. I have also had Bilstein gas shocks on other 4X4's and I was pleased with them. The 5000's have 44K miles on our 01 LS. They definately firm up the ride but are not harsh. I also installed the sway bar bushings from JC Whitney - shocking how much those little devils help the ride/cornering and after the 245-70's wore out we installed some 265-70's - big improvement on cornering - plus they beef up the look of the Trooper too. I wish I could spring for the OME springs - would make a great final addition.
    FYI - just changed the oil the other day - used about 3/4 quart in 5000 miles. I had been using Mobil 1 5-30 but I bought the Wallmart "Protech"?5-30 all synthetic this time - at $12 for a 5 quart jug felt it was worth a try - changed the filter and poured in the jug - right up to the fill mark. Also the "PDM" module the dealer replaced has finally cured the surging problem at cold start. For all the dealers efforts in trying to solve this problem I also got a new FPR and EGR valves
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    The OME regular shocks I added to my 1995 Trooper were very soft on smooth roads, even softer than the relatively new aftermarket Tokico gas shocks they replaced, but they also handled the bigger bumps very well. OME uses low pressure gas shocks, I think that makes them act like progressive springs, very soft, until needed. Compared to high pressure gas shocks which have a stiff pre-load so they are always on the stiff side, even when the road is smooth.
    http://www.arbusa.com/Nitrocharger.htm
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Well the adjusters were shot, one of the reasons I ditched em. Also they were pretty much gone as well. I had em on for 2 years and 50K miles which were HARD 50K miles. I just had the shop ditch em. I should have kept them and tried to get em replaced for new ones but didn't think of it.

    -mike
  • schweikbschweikb Member Posts: 111
    Sorry I do not know the code for IMG.
    I had the same problem on my 1998 S automatic 4WD at 100,300 miles after having it replaced at 60K miles under warranty. I had the optional 7 year 100K extended warranty and they would not pay for the 2nd job since the vehicle was over by 300 miles. Lousy!
    It cost me $294.16 out of pocket ($56.66 parts and $237.50 labor - 2.5 hours).
    Good luck.

    Bob
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    They reported "major evap leak" when mine went...however it took 4 trips to the dealer for the right codes to come up. They putzed around with the IAC and PCV valve and the problem kept occurring, they said it wasn't severe enough to notice the first trips...stalling every stoplight isn't severe.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    schweikb and sbcooke, thanks for the replies. schweikb, was your $294.16 replacement done at an Isuzu dealer? This is a good figure for me to be armed with when I contact my local dealer.

    I'm pretty confident it's the IMG - confident enough to authorize the repair if they get in there and it looks like there is a problem with it. This vehicle is out of warranty and is a daily driver, so going back to the shop multiple times while they try to identify the real problem is not an option.
  • schweikbschweikb Member Posts: 111
    The work was done at Sholz Isuzu in White Plains, NY. Their labor rate is $95/hour, so they charged 2.5 hours or a total of $237.50 labor plus sales tax in addition to the parts. Maybe where you are the labor rate is lower and it will not cost you as much.
    The parts they listed on my invoice:
    Quantity: 2
    Part #: 8-97237-538-0
    Description: Gasket;IN

    FYI - I checked my paperwork for the IMG work done under warranty at 59,960 miles and the same part and quantity was listed. However, the labor was shown as 1.7 hours versus the 2.5 hours shown when I paid for the same work. Interesting! Maybe some ammunition to cut the dealer's price down a little!
       
    Where my weekend house is upstate NY the labor rates are generally $70-$80/hour, so in the future I might wait and do things up there, although Sholz has a long history with Isuzu and it might be worth their knowledge and experience.

    Bob
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Where upstate? I have a place in the adirondacks!

    -mike
  • schweikbschweikb Member Posts: 111
    Town of Roxbury, the extreme west part of the Catskills, about 9 miles from Belleayre ski center and 7 miles north of Rte. 28 at an elevation of just about 3,000 ft - great views. Unfortunately (I guess) I now have the place up for sale and if I get the right price will take it and re-consolidate to my cooperative apartment in Westchester. Lost my job after 7 years with the company (this happened in 1995 after 20+ years with that company) and being 62 I am trying to retire and live more modestly. I am tired of what's going on in corporate America in terms of constant downsizing and squeezing workers to work 60 hours a week and pay them for 35 hours. The other part (a tendency to hire younger folks fresh out of college) I can't really disagree with - I would probably be looking for young bucks and buck-ettes too if I were hiring for my company.
    Where in the Adirondacks? I used to vacation as a kid at Loon Lake near Chestertown and still love that area. When I got the weekend house in 1997 I felt the 146 miles to Roxbury was enough of a haul since I go almost every week.
    I am also in the process of consolidating vehicles once I move back down away from the snow. Looking to get rid of the Trooper and my 2002 Altima and get one vehicle that serves all my needs (probably an Element or a 2wd Highlander - they're offering great deals on the 2wd 4-cylinder Highlanders and they are Toyota-reliable. The base 2wd/fwd Highlander comes with traction control, stability control and 4 wheel disc ABS standard. I am hoping that will get me through NYC metro area winters and since I don't work anymore I can stay home on really bad days.
    Take care,
    Bob
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Sorry to see you leave the mountains though. My place is in the Southern Adirondacks, probably about an hour or so north of where you are. It's in Caroga Lake, 50 miles west of Albany.

    -mike
  • sdavitosdavito Member Posts: 71
    any new squeaks when you changed to polyurethane sway bar bushings?

    Also, what part # do I use to order from JC Whitney? There are quite a few to choose from.

    David
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    Can somebody tell me what code P1441 means?

    Auto Zone pulled the codes from my Trooper (the Powertrain Control Module?) yesterday. It had 1 code, which the guy said was 'in there twice' - P1441. I don't have the text in front of me, but the code was a 'manufacturer controlled' which I believe means Isuzu does not allow 'standard' or 'generic' scan tools to know exactly what the problem is. There was a little more detail, but not much and I don't remember the wording.

    I think this Sunday it's finally time to replace the PCV valve, clean out the EGR, and run some Neutra cleaner through the oil and gas. I figured the Check Engine light meant the intake manifold gasket (IMG) needed replacement, but the code seems to indicate something different. At 105k miles, I'm confident our Trooper needs PCV/EGR replacement/cleaning.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    Found an old thread on another discussion board explaining that the P1441 code is "EVAP System Flow During Non-Purge" and that's often caused by a too-loose gas cap. The text I saw yesterday was different than that - something about auxiliary something-or-other.

    I guess I'll tighten up the gas cap and possibly disconnect battery for a while and see if that resolves the CEL.
  • schweikbschweikb Member Posts: 111
    I had the CEL come on a few months ago about 20 minutes after buying gas. I knew that a loose cap could cause this since it happened the first week I owned my then-new 98 Trooper. I made sure the cap was tight (it seemed it was but who knows), waited and after about 8 engine turn-offs, re-starts and normal driving (about a day and a half) the CEL light failed to appear one time when I started it - it has never come back on since. Save yourself grief and money and try normal operation for a day or two or three and see what happens - I suggest.
    This also happened about two years ago when I was starting the vehicle and released the key before it actually started and all the panel lights came on. Shortly after I re-started the engine, the CEL came on. At that time I did see the dealer and he told me the code was the same as for a loose cap since the "flooding" that occurs when you half- or almost-start the car produces the same condition and the diagnostic system can mis-interpret as a loose cap.
    For what it's worth.
    Bob
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    http://Isuzu-suvs.com has it in the FAQ or How-to section all the parts etc. I think mine squeeks but it doesn't bother me, if you grease em up nicely you won't get squeeks.

    -mike
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Member Posts: 377
    over the weekend. At 62500 miles the fluid coming out looked like day old coffee. It was definitely due replacement. No noticable driveability difference since the new fluid was put in. Also got the front wheel bearings repacked. The shop said some Troopers come with sealed wheel bearings, thus no need for repacking. Mine didn't fall in that category. Anyone know what year models do???
  • crqfliercrqflier Member Posts: 5
    We put Bilstein shocks on our '95 Trooper a couple years ago - they are very stiff (almost too stiff when compared to the OE shocks). They do a great job on keeping the car stable though - far better than the OE. The trade-off is worth it to us, but might not be for others.
  • dmuzykadmuzyka Member Posts: 31
    My wife has the Highlander set-up you're looking for - base 4 cyl. I'm very impressed with it as far as pep and handling - it's a very tight little rocket to dart around in, with impeccable build quality. Plenty of room for storage, too. Just don't expect to find many 4 cyl. available with side airbags...we were going to have to wait 4-6 months for one from the factory...and by all means fork over the extra $$ for the power seats!! We didn't and regret it often as I can't find a decent seating position (although she can), and I am greatly spoiled by my Trooper's seats. Also, my 2WD LS seems a more substantial vehicle than the Toyota, but that just might be perceptive prejudice!!
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Member Posts: 377
    Your Trooper IS substantially more vehicle than the Highlander. I believe the Highlander is a unibody construction, built on the Camary platform, therefore it's not a rigid truck frame giving that STRONG feeling of a truck. They are a fine looking and riding rig for what they are though, just as you have mentioned.

    I have to agree with you on the power seats thing. I have NEVER been able to get the seating position I prefer on my 01' Trooper that does not have power seating. It just sits differently than my 99' even though it has those manual knob adjusters. I'm not sure what the difference is exactly, but it's noticeable.
  • tkevinblanctkevinblanc Member Posts: 356
    I don't believe the Highlander is built on the Camry platform - I think it's built on the Avalon platform which is wider and longer. But it is definitely a car (unibody), not a truck.

    I have no problem with Sport Utility Cars (SUCs), despite my acronym. The only reason I have a Trooper/truck is because I need to pull a fairly heavy trailer. Otherwise, it'd be a all-wheel drive car for me.
  • cracoviancracovian Member Posts: 337
    Actually, the Avalon is based on the pre-2002 generation Camry platform which has been extended. Highlander is built on the current Camry platform with very few modifications. I find it interesting that Rav4 is also built on the same platform, just more heavily modified - I always thought it was a Corolla.

    My sister's loaded up Highlander Limited is one smooth riding rocket compared to the Trooper. I'd still pick my Isuzu because it looks cool, fits more stuff and I paid $15,000 less for it (Yes, she spent $40K OTD for her Toyota when they came out - it's got everything, extra warranty and some lifetime services too.)
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Bought a loaded highlander this year too. Close to $40k...

    -mike
  • schrochemschrochem Member Posts: 5
    I was hoping someone might help me. I have a 1999 Trooper and have an intermittent fan problem. It is starting to get hot here in Texas so I need to resolve this problem soon. The A/C itself seems to be working fine but the fan may or may not come on. I have felt the fan and when it is working it does cycle through the speeds. If it comes on, it will stay on until I turn the truck off. The fan speed doesn’t seem up to par as I have to put the speed all the way up to get any kind of cooling going. The times it doesn’t start, it may never start up. However, I have seen it magically come on when my speed increased (entering a highway).
    The only other symptoms I can offer is the amount of water being discharged seems to be excessive and immediate. I thought that had something to do only with the A/C but if I turn the A/C off it keeps on dripping. Even if I turn the heater on it keeps on dripping and a fast rate. The only way to stop the dripping is to turn the fan off.
    Is it my fan? Is it possibly a fuse (I don’t know how to check if the two fuses in the box are still good)? Lastly, do you think my A/C is still fine and it is just a fan problem?
    Thanks for any help
    Scott
  • tkevinblanctkevinblanc Member Posts: 356
    I had heard the RAV4 was based on the Celica...

    Well, whatever Toyota is doing, their doing it pretty darn well.

    I still love my Trooper, though.
  • tkevinblanctkevinblanc Member Posts: 356
    Condensation drips form the cooling coils when hot, moist air is cooled by the coil and can no longer hold the moisture. It drips into a pan and that pan has a hose leading out below the car. If that hose is clogged, it might drip more slowly, and for a longer time, than it otherwise would. A lot of garages/dealers will blow the line out with compressed air to clear the clog.

    The fan moves the air across the coils, so if the fan isn't running, there won't be much condensation. But, when if you turn the fan off, the water that's already in the pan will continue to drip until it's gone.

    As for your fan, it sounds like the fan motor could be faulty. Maybe it requires a lot of electricity to get it to spin? That would explain why the engine revs need to be up to get it to run. Could it be affected by a pool of condensate water? I don't think so, but I've never dis-assembled the unit...

    I'd get that condensation line cleared as a start.

    You realize that if the fan isn't in the on position, the AC compressor will not come on, even though you have the AC button depressed, right?

    There's a lot of hot air in a Trooper, and the AC is not as powerful as some might hope. I always start by opening my windows to get the super-heated air out before I turn the AC on.

    Also, make sure the air source lever is slid to recycle. Otherwise, you're just air conditioning outside air and forcing it into the truck.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    The only toyota that does anything to move me is the Landcruiser. The rest are all really really Blah. They remind me of a Toaster Oven or Refrigerator, they are for non-car enthusiasts who wouldn't know the difference if they were driving a Hondah or Toyota or what not. Very reliable, but no soul, no heart, no character.

    -mike
  • schrochemschrochem Member Posts: 5
    Thanks for your response. Well I don't think the line is clogged b/c it seems to flow at a pretty quick rate. It seems to be more than I have ever noticed.
    I guess if it was a fuse problem it would either work or it wouldn't. Could it be some other electrical problem? I am not sure how a fan motor starts to go out, but I want to make sure it isn't something upstream before replacing it. I noticed on the fan motor under the part number it said 12V. Do you suppose, it might be borderline to the 12V mark? If so how do I resolve that problem. I don't know much about trucks as you can tell but like to tinker nonetheless.
    scott
  • tkevinblanctkevinblanc Member Posts: 356
    Agreed, Toyotas are appliances. But they are unbelievably good if you don't care about personality. Personally, my next car will probably be a 'ru.
  • tkevinblanctkevinblanc Member Posts: 356
    There are probably ways to test the draw of the fan motor, but often when a mechanism with a motor begins to die, it requires more power to start and run.

    As to what's coming out of the condensate line, it only drips when the AC is running, or has just run, right? In a hot humid environment, it can produce quite a bit of water.

    Moving humid air slowly over the coils will extract the most water. So, maybe your fan really is running poorly/slowly.

    I'm hoping others will that have more experience will chime in. Fan motors have been discussed in the past...
  • cwmcwm Member Posts: 42
    P1441 EVAP System Flow During Non-Purge
     
    Isuzu OBD2 codes:
    http://www.troublecodes.net/isuzu/iszuobd2.shtml

    Here is something titled "EVAP System Operation":
    http://service.gm.com/gmtechlink/images/issues/nov02/TL_Nov02.pdf

    and Isuzu Technical Service Bulletins:

    SB00-02-S002 MAR 00 DTC P1441 EVAP/Fuel Sender Calibration Revised

    SB98-03-L006 JUL 98 DTC P1441 (EVAP) Diagnostic Procedures Revised

    at http://www.alldata.com/TSB/29/98292538.html
  • ilitilit Member Posts: 71
    A new "fuel sending unit" replaced on mine cured the problem I had with my 99 T.
  • schrochemschrochem Member Posts: 5
    yes, after the a/c has run, but if I turn off the a/c it keeps on dripping (with fan still on). If I turn the fan off it stops immediately.
    I did search the archives and found a similar post at #9201. However, noone seemed to answer that post, but I do think mine does the same thing with switching the intake back and forth. Not sure if it is related but I do notice quite a buildup on my battery terminals in a short amount of time. I have often wondered if something is killing my battery (I am on my third one in 4yrs 70000miles. Been keeping them as clean as I can as often as needed.
    Thanks again for the help
    scott
  • troop2shostroop2shos Member Posts: 235
    My '04 fridge white 4 cyl AWD appliance has a personality with a very high level of performance: Subaru Forester XT. Combined with my '00 Troop, my driving, storage, towing, etc. needs are pretty much covered.
  • sdavitosdavito Member Posts: 71
    My 2000 Trooper had the same exact symptoms, and it was the fan motor.

    David
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Forester is FAR from an appliance. It's got the underpinnings of the WRX and handles and has way more character than a Toyota or Hondah.

    Being an appliance has nothing to do with 4cylinders, but more the chassis/feel/personality of the vehicle...

    I have 3 subies :)

    '92 SVX
    '94 Legacy Turbo 5MT Sedan
    '96 Impreza L Race Prepared 4EAT

    -mike
  • troop2shostroop2shos Member Posts: 235
    The Forester XT is perceived as an appliance to those who are totally unaware of its performance utility & stealth advantage... :)
  • schrochemschrochem Member Posts: 5
    Thanks for the reply. Yea I think it is the motor. I just checked with a voltmeter. The battery terminals showed 14V, the line going to the fan motor also showed 14V and the fan wouldn't turn on. The only curious thing was it gave 14V no matter if it was on low or high. I thought it varied the voltage according to fan speed. If it is supposed to, could something else be bad? If not where is a good place to get a fan motor? Are these suckers only available through Isuzu?
    Thanks again for the help
    Scott
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Member Posts: 377
    check with your local salvage yard for a used fan. If no luck there try on-line or St. Charles in Mo.

    or try http://www.car-part.com/
  • dnestrdnestr Member Posts: 188
    Saying about Toyotas and the Land Cruiser you probably forgot to mention one more good thing. I mean the Lexus GX 470. Have I guessed right? Also Toyota sales it on the European market as a Land Cruiser Prado with 4,0 and 4,7 gasoline engines. Unfortunately newer diesel Prado is not yet available here, but an earlier model had a perfect 3,0 diesel engine. It could eat the worst diesel fuel you had ever filled. The most popular middle-sized SUV in Europe and Russia.

    This is the view of the earlier Prado.

    http://www.cars.auto.ru/view/?nomer=KA26146
  • schweikbschweikb Member Posts: 111
    Just wondering if you got the paint and how it looks.
  • seanreidseanreid Member Posts: 152
    Phase 2 of the Trooper audio install is now done. I changed to a different Eclipse HU that has an aux in jack which allows me to connect a Sirius satellite docking receiver to it. You can pick up a Sirius tuner transmission via the FM tuner on almost any HU but you lose a lot of sound quality that way. I bought a Clarion Sirius tuner with an auto docking kit and a home docking kit (in fact its playing right now). Soon, I'll get one more auto kit so that I can use it on my motorcycle (sometimes I finish leading a tour and want to make a fast, direct highway run home - great time for music). I like the docking kit idea because I pay just one monthly fee and can use the unit in different vehicles.

    The satellite antenna is mounted on the left side of the Trooper just ahead of the rear spoiler. The cable feeds down against the gasket on the small door and then behind various panels up to the dash. The little well in the center console (just ahead of the gear selector) was just the right place for the receiver bracket. With the signal from the Sirius tuner going directly to my HU via an audio cable, the sound is great. I picked up an Eclipse CD5441 for about $200 on E-Bay and it feeds a McIntosh amp and then CDT component front speakers. It took a lot of cutting and drilling but I managed to modify the Trooper to take the latter pieces.

    With some mods, the amp fit in the well beneath the rear seat. I unscrewed the various screws holding the plastic liner and lid of the well to the body and removed it. Lo and behold the actual cavity in the body extends back under the floor another 6" or so. I tried placing the amp in there and it fit! So I made some measurements and marks and then went to work on the plastic liner with a drill and skill saw. First I cut about a 12" by 3.5" slot in the rear of the plastic liner so that the amp could be tilted into the well and slide partly through the slot into the body cavity. Then I drilled about forty 3/8" or so holes in the lid of the well liner and then made various holes around the sides so that air could move freely below the seat, in and out of the body cavity, etc. The Trooper has a fairly thick acoustic mat mounted between the metal floor of the well and the plastic liner. What ended up as an amazing coincidence was that the mat's irregular shape extends beyond the plastic liner floor into exactly the area where the rest of the amp will sit. In other words, about 2/3 of the amp sits on the plastic floor of the liner (bolted to it) and then the remaining 1/3 of the amp body passes through the slot and rests directly on the acoustic mat. That acoustic liner adds some good isolation from vibration, shock, etc. I cut away the carpet over the lid so that the amp could have airflow through the lid holes I drilled. Power to the amp comes via an 8-gauge wire that runs straight to the battery via a grommet mounted in the firewall. Actually, I removed the plate that is bolted to the firewall just above the brake pedal, drilled it, mounted a grommet and then routed the wire through that - works great (found that tip either here or on that "other" list).

    The 6.5" CDT midwoofers I have are just too large and deep to fit in the Trooper's front doors without building the door out a lot. So I bought some used CDT 5.25" mid- woofers and made rings from MDF to add 1/2" mounting depth to the speaker openings. It was a perfect fit, with the woofer magnets right up against the plastic basket. I also covered most of the rear of the basket with sheet plastic to protect the woofers from water, etc. when the windows are rolled down. I then used the stock speaker grills as a base for new mesh/fabric grills that allow room for the depth of the new speakers. I mounted the crossovers in the hollows formed by the inside of the door armrests (inside the door panels of course) and, temporarily, mounted the CDT tweeters in the stock Trooper locations.

    It sounds really good and so far I'm very happy with Sirius, especially their traditional jazz channel. My last two mods, when time allows (these have been my weekend fun projects) will be to move the tweeters to surface mounts just above the woofers and to line both surfaces of the front doors with "Brown Bread" to damp them acoustically.

    Cheers,

    Sean
    '99 Trooper w/ Lux Package
  • djweberdjweber Member Posts: 18
    I've read through some old posts regarding the blower but they don't seem to fit my issue exactly.

    The fan does not work at all in any position. If I turn on A/C or defrost the compressor kicks on, but not the blower. I have power to all the way to the blower connector IF I GROUND TO CHASSIS and REGARDLESS of fan switch position, but not if I ground to connector. The blower works when removed and given direct 12v power. I can only assume this means the dash blower switch switches the ground side, yes?

    I am not familiar with the 'resistor pack' in the dash or the 'relay' under the hood and ran out of time tonight, does the hot side or ground side run thru those? If so the I can eliminate them possible problems, yes? If not, is it likely one of these is the problem versus the dash blower switch? How much time is involved in getting to the dash switch? Any tips on removal?...I see a few screws and am hoping it's not too involved.

    btw...kudos to Isuzu for making the blower so accessible and easy to drop!

    Thanks for any input/help.
  • djweberdjweber Member Posts: 18
    BTW I recently installed Timbrens (chose over air bags for simplicity) to aid with towing my boat. I am very happy...tows nice and level.

    The Trooper has something similar to the Timbrens already in the exact same location, but the rubber was softer AND I was missing the one on the passenger side completely!...the one still there on the driver's side just kind of rested on a 'nub'.

    I did have to grind down part of a large mounting washer to give clearance for the install however.
  • bradestokesbradestokes Member Posts: 7
    Found a deal for $5700 for a 96 Trooper SE (the high end model fully loaded) with only 70k miles. What do you all think? Good deal? Anything I should look for in regards to issues on this year, make, model, mileage.
    Thanks
  • djweberdjweber Member Posts: 18
    I found the Resistor pack, but not sure how I am supposed to test. It is of the 'heat sink' variety and seems bomb proof. I read post #8669 by ostaz but how do you test it with it plugged in? I guess I can access the back a little bit, but I don't know which terminal is what number.

    I also took most of the dash off to reach the fan switch. Continuity test results are:

    Off - nothing to nothing
    1st position - Black/Orange
    2nd position - Black/Yellow, B/O and O/Y
    3rd position - Black/Red, B/O and O/R
    4th position - Black/Red & White, B/O, O/RW

    I'm a little over my head with the power check. One it appears that the switch switches the ground side. And Two, I've got a lot of stuff disconnected and unplugged!

    Regarding above...if B/O are connected in all positions but 'OFF' it follows whatever connects to Black will always connect to Orange as well.

    I guess I am going to try to put all this back together now and try to replace the Resistor pack when I can and go from there. If that doesn't work I'll order a fan switch and at least I know how to take the dash apart now!

    There is also a 'mystery' plug just above and to the left of Resistor pack. Made by Zexel as well it's long and narrow...possible some type of thermostat? 0.5 (degree sign)C stamped on it.
  • djweberdjweber Member Posts: 18
    By the way...this is a 1999 Trooper 'Luxury'.

    I've heard mention of some relay under the hood, but I can only see one for the A/C in the under hood fuse box. Any info appreciated.
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