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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • agentmjzagentmjz Member Posts: 1
    How do I go about removing the dashboard and stereo in a 2001 Jimmy? I bought a plug that will enable me to hook up my iPod to the AUX port in the back of the stereo.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Radio Replacement (RPO Code UM6, UM7)
    Removal Procedure

    Caution: Before servicing any electrical component, the ignition key must be in the OFF or LOCK position and all electrical loads must be OFF, unless instructed otherwise in these procedures. If a tool or equipment could easily come in contact with a live exposed electrical terminal, also disconnect the negative battery cable. Failure to follow these precautions may cause personal injury and/or damage to the vehicle or its components.

    Disconnect the battery negative cable.
    Remove the left instrument panel sound insulator.
    Remove the knee bolster trim panel.
    Remove the screws that retain the instrument panel accessory trim plate to the instrument panel.
    Remove the instrument panel accessory trim plate by releasing the retaining clips.
    Position the instrument panel accessory trim plate in order to remove the control switches.
    - Remove the selectable 4WD switch (if equipped). Refer to S4WD Select Switch Replacement .
    - Remove the inflatable restraint IP module switch. Refer to Inflatable Restraint Instrument Panel (I/P) Module Disable Switch Replacement in SIR.
    - Remove the headlamp switch.
    Remove the radio mounting screws.
    Remove the radio.
    Disconnect the electrical connector and the antenna lead.
  • xbdg101xbdg101 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1994 GMC Jimmy my first vehical. it ran great until like a month ago it started to run bad so i gave it a tune up. it helped alot but now it blows alot of smoke from the exhaust i mean alot. when it idals it idals ruff. It has some smoke showing. When you rev it up it hesitates and blows alot i mean alot of smoke. Enough of it to make the truck not visible after holding it at a high rpm for like 10 seconds. the smoke is like bluish grey, in between of blue and grey. also some of the gas is getting into the oil pan and mixing with the oil. does anyone know what my problem could be?

    i havent done a compresion test yet.
    im going to do that tomorrow

    I hope you have some ideas what this could be
  • n2chin2chi Member Posts: 2
    New to this forum, so sorry if I''m not using it correctly. Friend has a 99 Blazer LT with 4.3 engine and 52K miles. It dies for no reason while moving in traffic. Posts no codes. Gas has been changed numerous times since it began some months ago. Friend is pretty good amateur mechanic, fixes others' cars for money and they're satisfied, but he can't figure this one out. He's checked the obvious, connections, etc.
    Thanks, Dave
  • rich25rich25 Member Posts: 6
    My 1997 Jimmy has a dead battery last night and it just did all of a sudden. It just would not start. I just bought and installed a new battery and it seems that it's taking up the power of the battry so fast. I just want to know if what is the usual voltage for a newly installed battery because it's showing in the voltmeter at about 14volts and what is the reading of a almost dead battery and good battery on the voltmeter. I don't know much about cars that's why i'm looking for a advice. Thanks...
  • 1mobiusdiesil1mobiusdiesil Member Posts: 13
    First things First...

    Don't ever use starting fluid in a gasoline engine!

    Your problem very well could be a serious one. When using starting fluid in a gasoline engine the fluid ignites before the piston has reached the the power stroke... Therefore melting the piston head. The piston has rings around it which act like a seal for compression. If you melt the rings (which can be easy to do in a Jimmy) you will lose compression in that cylinder and that will cause your ECM to send a signal to dump more fuel into that cylinder which counter-acts the ignition timing.

    Advancing the timing to a point where the fuel will NOT be ignited and pushed through the exhaust and burnt at the Catalitic converter.

    White smoke... lots of it...

    Get a compression test done before you decide to start pulling rods.

    hope this information is useful to you.

    Mobius
  • 1mobiusdiesil1mobiusdiesil Member Posts: 13
    14 volts is very good.
    anything below 12.5 volts is bad...

    A power drain from a battery is only caused by one thing... Your Truck.

    Now what recharges your battery when it is running??? Alternator.

    To check an alternator to see if it is generating power to supply your battery, you need an ammeter to check amps.

    Or remove positive cable from battery while engine is running and test voltage at the cable end... (NOT RECOMMENDED!, DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME!) but, if you do... lol voltage will increase rapidly if it is working ok, and if the alternator is dead the voltage will stay the same. Which is zero

    Alternators are expensive brand new and usually new doesn't mean good...

    I personally recommend buying a used one.
    Yellow pages under automotive you can find wreckers that sell used parts for cheap.

    Alternator usually 50$ for a Jimmy 6cyl.
  • 1mobiusdiesil1mobiusdiesil Member Posts: 13
    When diagnosing a problem with a vehicle, Information about the problem is Imperative.

    A dead Jimmy can be caused by many different problems as most of us Jimmy owners have found out.

    However... When a vehicle dies like that, the first thing you should check is your battery voltage guage.

    Second... Check for a large animal or possibly a concrete block under your wheel that might be preventing your vehicle from moving.

    Hope this information has been helpful
    Mobius
  • 1mobiusdiesil1mobiusdiesil Member Posts: 13
    Check-out message #1099

    Fuel injector cleaner acts in the same way as starting fluid.

    it doesn't burn as fast though... It won't cause ring failure, but it does change the burn rate of the gasoline.

    What happens is the octane has been increased. (a.k.a. burn rate) doesn't burn hotter... just slower... Yes, I said Slower. If this makes any sense at all that should tell you that your spark plugs have just been melted, because your ignition timing has changed. The gas being injected into your cylinders is burning before the power stroke.

    replace your spark plugs and don't use that cleaner again. It does what the bottle says it will, but what it doesn't tell you is that it will also cause things not related to your fuel system to FAIL!

    Did you say 195 degrees for your thermostat?
    is that farenheit? or celcius?

    If your talking Farenheit and havn't replaced anything like a radiator for a bigger one then your thermostat is set too high...

    average thermostat opening temp is 160 degrees Farenheit for a 4.3 lt Jimmy cooling system.
    125 degrees Celcius is Redlined.

    hope this information has been helpful
    Mobius
  • 1mobiusdiesil1mobiusdiesil Member Posts: 13
    Depending on how many miles your Jimmy has...

    Synthetic oil is not good for older or high mileage engines that havn't been using synthetic oil before.

    Why?...

    Synthetic oil is made using additives...
    additives like... penethanol-sulphate.
    Which seals cracks.

    Also includes different types of detergents. This stuff doesn't like conventional oil. It will make all your original oil seals in your engine LEAK. (eats away old oil)

    This "crack" sealer can and in most cases will seal the wear spots in cam shafts and crank shafts.

    Why this is bad?...
    Bearing movement... The bearings have formed a comfortable seat where they are in your engine using conventional oil.

    When a sealer is added the bearings can become compressed causing excessive wear (forced to make a new seat again)

    At first noticable power loss... then... Snap! goes a rod... then... Booom! goes the intake...

    The only problem is that Synthetic oil is great!
    only in new and unabused engines.

    If your engine has been running on conventional oil for up to 50,000mi... don't switch oils.

    But, if you choose to anyway. Don't drive hard for atleast 5000mi. Sucks eh?
  • 1mobiusdiesil1mobiusdiesil Member Posts: 13
    WORKS GUARANTEED!!!
    TO TRY AT HOME WITH A BEER!!!

    Step#1 open hood...

    Step#2 move body to driver side of engine...

    Step#3 listen for a clicking sound...

    Step#4 if you hear clicking, look for a shiny little valve on top of rocker cover...

    Step#5 open beer and sip

    Step#6 Phone mechanic

    Step#7 ask mechanic what that valve is and what can happen if it fails?...

    problem solved

    hope this information was helpful.
    Mobius
  • n2chin2chi Member Posts: 2
    You're right. He did mention something about his voltage gauge reading low...about 9 volts. I don't get the "connection", though. What would cause that? I had thought maybe his gauge was just cheap consumer technology.
    Thanks, Dave
  • blaze100blaze100 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1999 blazer and for a while, about three months, the 4wd on the dash goes from 2wd to 4wd hi by itself. Right now, I'm also having the turn signal malfunction switch problem where the flasher stays on, so I ordered that part. Are the two problems related somehow? The 4wd module is located by the passenger side kick panel, real close to the signal flasher. Any ideas or help would be greatly appreciated. Julian
  • 1mobiusdiesil1mobiusdiesil Member Posts: 13
    Dave... Read message #1100 That message is for the same problem your friend is having.

    Alternator failure.

    Hope this information has been helpful
    Mobius
  • 1mobiusdiesil1mobiusdiesil Member Posts: 13
    Blaze... Diagnosing your 4x4 trouble is not going to be easy.

    An electrical shifting 4x4 is one of the most difficult things to diagnose even for the best transmission specialists.

    One thing I can tell you is that your Transfercase control module is fine.

    Where you should start looking is at the electrical trasfercase shift motor mounted on the side of the trasfercase itself...

    The motor is similar to the starter motor for your engine, a solenoid on the motor. With a wiring harness that goes to the Transfercase control module. If the control module senses a break in the signal to the transfercase it will select the next gear that is working... in your case it is 4x4 hi.

    Good thing the module isn't to blame eh? @ about 600$ u.s.

    check for corroded wires on the wiring harness.

    Now for your turn signal...
    Replace the relay in your glove box.
    you know... the one that is clicking when the signal is flashing?

    not related to the 4x4 system.

    hope this info has been useful.
    Mobius
  • blaze100blaze100 Member Posts: 3
    Mobius,
    Is that the correct name for that part? I can't seem to find it by name in the alldata diagram.
  • 1mobiusdiesil1mobiusdiesil Member Posts: 13
    Yes it is the correct name for the part.

    Depending on the diagram you are referring to, in most cases, transfercase information is very limited. Like in a Haynes do-it-yourself guide book you won't see any schematics or motor details at all for the 4x4 system.

    If you decide to lower your skid plate and check the transfercase yourself... !note! disconnect battery first. You don't want to deep fry that module and eat it for dinner.
  • blazergirl22blazergirl22 Member Posts: 1
    My blazer wont start, it will turn over and attempted to start. My brother is a mechanic and has replaced the fuel pump, ignition coil, ignition module and battery. It ran fine for about 5 or 6 months then this week its died on me 3 times and i figured it was because it was idling low but went out to start it today and it didn't start. I sprayed some starting fluid and still didn't start. It hasn't had a tune up in about 2 years. If you guys have any ideas on what to do next please let me know.
  • 1mobiusdiesil1mobiusdiesil Member Posts: 13
    blazergirl...

    First pull the oil dipstick... smell the oil to see if it smells like gasoline.
    Why your doing this is to check for a fuel leak.

    one more thing... Read message #1099.

    another thing you can do is remove one of the spark plugs, (doesn't matter which one) and inspect it to see if it has gasoline on it. Why your doing this is to confirm ignition and fuel flow to the cylinder.
  • christopher71christopher71 Member Posts: 8
    I went on a road trip for the first time last weekend. In heavy stop and go traffic, my blazer started shifting hard. I went to a GM dealer and they told me, it was the valve body on the transmission. It would be 700.00 to fix. They didn't have the part, so I went on my way. By the way the code was 1870. Now that I am back home the problem is gone. Can someone give in advice on this issue? I don't leave town very often,but I was told if it is not fixed it will come back when I get on the highway again.
  • 1mobiusdiesil1mobiusdiesil Member Posts: 13
    Chris...

    Your GM Dealer has probably diagnosed the problem with your shifting correctly.
    Driving your Blazer at high speed (if you consider 70mph high speed) with a leaking valve can be hard on the clutches causing them to over-heat which will make them brittle like crackers. I don't recommend driving your Blazer that hard until you can get the part you need.

    But what he or she didn't tell you is that you can easily find the valve body at a wreckers for 50$-100$.

    Check one out in your local yellow pages listed under automotive.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    P1870 = Transmission Component Slipping

    Usual symptoms are harsh 1-2 shift after high speed driving, ok after key off until next time it's driven at higher speed. The most common cause is a worn torque converter clutch regulator valve bore in the valve body (controls apply of the lockup clutch in the converter). Sonnax has developed a kit which provides a less expensive and permanent fix. Any decent transmission shop will be aware of the problem and fix. Click here for more info:

    http://www.transmissionspecialty.com/parts/parts/77754-Combo.htm

    P.S. Don't waste your time with junkyard parts. They're likely to be in the same condition as what you're replacing.
  • jim9418jim9418 Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem with my 1997 Jimmy. I hear the electric latch trying to work, but nothing. One other time I couldn't open the hatch... the reason was the rear wiper had been used and didn't put itself "home" when turned off. I guess GM put a safety device that won't let the hatch open if it thinks the wiper is active. So, today it is raining and my son borrowed my Jimmy (never again). Of course he just had to use the rear wiper. Now my rear hatch won't open. Any suggestions on how to maybe reset this thing?
  • christopher71christopher71 Member Posts: 8
    Thank you so much for the information!!!!!! GM wants to repalce the whole valve. I can't afford that.
    Thank you again.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    You're welcome. Let us know the outcome.
  • ike2ike2 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1986 Jimmy 2.8 litre, While driving the vehicle lost all power and shut down. I cannot restart the vehicle. I still have power to the headlights, horn & interior lights , but no power to the ignition system, my 4 way flasher does not work. what could be the problem.
  • rileythedogrileythedog Member Posts: 5
    My Dealership has given up on troubleshooting this one.
    We bought this one used with 60,000 Kms and a extended warrenty(140,000kms) from the dealer. We noticed a pronounced driveline howl between 80 and 100 kph in 2wd that would disappear when 4W Hi was selected and returns in 2WD. Quite audible from the passenger seat and felt a vibration in the floor.
    We managed to replicate the problem and the dealer began by changing the Hub Bearings that were bad. Low speed noise gone but not the Highway howl. They then said the ride height and alignment was out, but found to be okay. Next they ordered "microphones" to place around the driveline to pin point the source of the noise. They R&R'd the front diff and told me they changed an axle bearing and front axle that was scored. The result was quieter but still there.
    Now at 105,000 Kms the howl is back same as before. This time the dealer has had it a week and said my tires needed rotating, but that did not fix it. They asked the GMPP rep to come test drive it but he/she was a no show. I got a phone call this morning from Quantrill Chev Olds in Port Hope and was told that they could not fix it and come get your truck.
    I drove it home and it still howls.

    any ideas?
  • rich25rich25 Member Posts: 6
    My jimmy 1997 has problem with the aircon/heater dial, the aircon and heater are both working fine except that the dial seems not working. I can't change the mode of the aircon/heater exhaust. I can turn the dial but the mode does not change, it is stuck on the exhaust near the windshield.

    If someone has this problem or knows what is the solution to this can you please give me an idea what is the cause of this trouble and the solution.

    Thank you very much and I appreciate any information.
  • xbdg101xbdg101 Member Posts: 3
    my 94 Jimmy blows alot of smoke out of the exhaust. it started to do it after i gave it a tune up. i gave it the tune up because we were cranking on it alot and it wouldn't start. after the tune up you can tell it was flooded but i got it to start but now when it runs it blows alot of smoke. i hear that it can be a bad diagram in the intake manifold or it could be something with the engine its self (piston-rings, piston, etc.) i do alot of work on engines (change heads, replace rings, etc.) is there a way i can tell for sure before i do a compression test or have to tear the whole engine apart?
  • rileythedogrileythedog Member Posts: 5
    Here is an update.
    I drove this home in the 6 inches of snow we got on the 2nd of April. I was stuck in our level driveway. I put it in 4WH and could not get moving, noticed the front wheels were not even moving. I finally drove out in 2WD.
    Today I raised the rear end off the ground untill both rear wheels cleared the ground. I put it in both 4WL and 4WH and carefully tried to drive forward with just the front wheels, nothing.
    My conclusion is that the 4X4 is not working as the truck should have driven forward. Am I wrong? I can here the relay clicking in and the 4X4 selector lights up.

    Any ideas or comments?
  • 1mobiusdiesil1mobiusdiesil Member Posts: 13
    Don't give up...

    Get all you can out of that warranty.

    They will eventually find the problem.
  • rmnrmn Member Posts: 1
    Bought my 96 Jimmy about 1 and 1/2 years ago with 140,000kms on it. Has the
    same problem you described. I have put 60,000kms on it with the noise. Tried new
    tires, replaced the right front wheel bearing twice & was told recently by a driveline specialty shop that the problem was the thrust washers in between the right drive
    shaft and differential. I haven't tried this as yet. I would also like anyone elses input.
  • bwolfordbwolford Member Posts: 1
    Three weeks ago I was going to the store. Went out to the blazer, and turned the key, nothing happened. The battery was fully charged, but there was no sound when I turned the key. Poked around a bit, but could not get truck to start. Left alone, and tried it the next morning, and it started fine. No problem since until this morning, now it won't start again. Any Ideas?
  • dipdotdipdot Member Posts: 1
    HI! Our college daughter drives this car and is having occasional problems
    with the car not starting...........because she lives away at college, I really need
    (for her safety!) to find out what the problem is and fix it once and for all!

    Most of the time, it seems that the car starts fine.
    Then, sometimes, it won't start at all. Won't turn over.....I think she said it begins
    to start and the just won't. The lights work, etc......so doesn't seem to be the
    battery. To get it started, she waits a few minutes, or a few hours or a day or so.......goes out, tries it again, it seems fine!

    Yes, she has gas! (I asked!) Someone told us they ONLY way to diagnose this is to have a mechanic look at it WHEN it won't start. If I knew when this was going to happen, it would be a lot easier! ;)

    ANY advice or ideas would be appreciated! :) THANKS THANKS THANKS! :mad:
  • efalconefalcon Member Posts: 4
    Hi, anyone know how I can get the radio on my Blazer unlocked??? I just bought a1999 Blazer and had to do some repairs on it. Finally it is all done but i can't get the radio to work, it seems to be locked somehow is there any safe way to unlock it if I don't have the original password or should I just give up and buy a new radio??

    Thanks,
  • 92blazer92blazer Member Posts: 1
    I have a problem with blower motor. I have replaced the relay,still same problem. The fan goes on when the relay is taped on. It only works in one speed HI. :sick: ">link title
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Easy, just take the vehicle registration document to your closest GM dealer. They'll be able to provide the code for a fee.
  • efalconefalcon Member Posts: 4
    Thanks
  • efalconefalcon Member Posts: 4
    Is the procedure for engaging 4X4Hi the same as in all traditional 4WD vehicles???
    1.- Stop
    2.- Shift to Neutral
    3.- Press 4XHi button
    4.- etc, etc

    that Sort of thing, or can I just press the button any time I please???
  • ahmedsujuahmedsuju Member Posts: 1
    I gotta 95 Blazer, i baught it recentley it has about 183,000km my problem was not gettin a warantee in it,ONE day I was driving fine, and then the car stalls, it shut off on me, i knew i had gas, constantly i tried to start it till i fedup, checked for oil, coolant, everything seemed fine, called my friend, and he looked at it, and he said the gas is not goin through to the engine, he tryed to hit it from underneeth where the gas tank is, and still didn't work, he told me i need a new Fuel Pump, i paid 400 bucks for it and i gotta a year warantee ..I guess these things happen alot in Blazers, get your warantee bumber to bumber thanks
  • shep1shep1 Member Posts: 1
    Recently my 96 S10 jimmy ahs been slow to start(fire). :sick: It cranks good just won't fire.Usually have to try starting 3-6 times before it does start.I have 170k vortec 4.3.Any ideas would be appreciated.I've thought I might change the spark plugs and go from there. :confuse: ">
  • kaydence0824kaydence0824 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1994 jimmy sle. Since christmas is been stalling, when idling and when you go to give it gas, it will die, not all the time but most times. I have replaced wires, plugs, egr, coil, timings fine. Dad replaced the fuel filter yesterday, when he went to start the truck, it wouldnt start, He placed the battery on a charger and today it wouldnt start. He took the battery in to be tested, he touhgt maybe it had a dead cell. The battery is fine.....so why all of a sudden would my truck not start?? please give me some ideas that I can pass on to him. Hes not shady mechanic and knows what hes doing but hes stumped, he didnt touch anything electrical, he mentioned something about ignition starter may need to be replaced. Anyone have any ideas?
    thanks for any help
    Me :):)
  • xbdg101xbdg101 Member Posts: 3
    i had the same problem with my 1994 jimmy
    you have a vacume line off
    start the truck and listen for a whistle
    if you vin code has the "W" in it or its a 4.3 liter v6 with fuel coming in through throttle body not port injection the check for a vacume line off its connector right behind the throtle body in between the throtle body and the fire wall on the passenger sige of the truck

    im sure its around the same area for the other engine
    "Z" in the vin code or direct port injection

    hope this helps it fixed my 4wd drive not engaging like it said it was
  • j9sjimmyj9sjimmy Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Jimmy and I had the exact same problem, both gas gauge and signal noise problem.

    I just took it in and they said it was my multifunction switch that was screwed with regards the signal problem. Which was covered under my extended warranty.

    The fuel gauge was fixed too. They just added some sort of cleaner to the tank which was about $15.00.

    Hope that helps!
  • efalconefalcon Member Posts: 4
    Hi there,
    You might want to check for the correct fuel pressure, Vortec engines need at least 55psi to run, otherwise it wont start. If gas pressure does not meet the 55psi then you will probably need to replace the fuel pump. But before you get in to that, you might want to make sure you are getting a spark from the Spark plugs and a signal to the fuel injectors. (if there is no spark or signal to the fuel injector then the ignition starter is probably the problem).
    Now getting back to the fuel system, if you have enough fuel pressure, spark and a signal to the injectors, you should check for clogged Fuel Injectors.

    Please let us know how it went.
  • jmaxejmaxe Member Posts: 198
    I hear a whine in the rear end at about 50 mph that I can actually change the pitch by pressing and then releasing the accelerator. I've changed tires so that doesn't seem the likely cause. Could it be the differential, U-joint?
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Classic symptoms of crown and pinion gearset noise. First check, is there any vertical or side to side play in the pinion yoke? If so, probably needs pinion bearings. If not, the gearset can be re-shimmed IF the problem hasn't been present long enough to cause excessive wear on the gear teeth. Best bet, find a shop which specializes in 4X4 and off-road stuff, they usually have lots of experience setting up rear axle gearsets.
  • radiomanradioman Member Posts: 1
    Check the hinge pins on the door that is making the noise, mine did the same thing and what I found is that the hindge pins were rubbing the door spring, so I drove them back up and everything is fine. I worked for a dealer in SC and their body guy raised hell with a mechanic for Yanking on a door like that, he said it would prematurely wear the bushings. I believe this because I ended up replacing my bushings too.

    My 96 jimmy right front noise was teh computer beating the top of the coolant tank. I thought it was the battery, but I fixed it and it makes no more noise. see the last post that I made to correct it.
  • jmaxejmaxe Member Posts: 198
    Does anyone know if I can bleed air from the radiator? I recently had to top off the coolant in my '00 Jimmy and now there is a distinct gurgling sound in the area of the heater core. I suspect air is in the system.
  • jmaxejmaxe Member Posts: 198
    Thanks Alcan. I'm not familiar with these terms(c & p gearset) but I'll look into it and let you know the outcome.
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