Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

bbuilder · June 2005

Something similar happened to me. The battery was dead after I forgot the headlights on for a few hours. Frustrating, but no big deal, right? As soon as we connected my wife's '97 Jimmy's battery to my cousin's car using jumper cables, the alarm started going on. I tried to start the car right away hoping it would stop, but no luck there, the passlock or whatever it is called had disabled the starter.

To make a long story short, my father-in-law who is the main driver of the car told me that this happened to him a few times and the way to get the car to start is to push this tiny button under the steering wheel while turning the key. In our Jimmy, the button is located to the left of the steering wheel, right above the connecter plug to connect diagnostic equipment. You won't see the button sitting at the steering wheel, though, you will have to kneel on the ground next to your driver's seat and stick your head in where the pedals are to see it. Anyway, once you find it, simply hold it down for 15-30 seconds and then turn your key normally to start the engine.

Good luck!

redgray · June 2005

I have just removed the gas tank on my '97 Jimmy (4.3, 4 x 4, 4 door) and had a problem. was removing the tank to put in new fuel pump--tough but accomplished. My only problem was while I was removing the tank, there was a hose with maybe a pressure regulator (???) attached that broke off. I can't find the part and don't know what I should be asking for and where to get it. I'm assuming I need to contact a dealer because auto zone, pep boys, and murrays did not recognized the part. HELP PLEASE....

regordo · June 2005

Hi, I'm Rick from New England. I have a '98 Jimmy that has been pretty good since buying it last year, but alas, a problem...

Brought it to the mechanic with suspicion of a transmission problem (slow to start up from stop and seemed like I was pulling a tractor trailer behind me) also suggish when trying to pick up speed when merging into traffic. Plenty of rpm, just not much reaction.

The "check engine" light came on last week (why I brought it to mechanic) and he put it on the computer and said there was a "selenoid code" showing up. I then took it to a transmission place but his computer showed NO code problem at all. Of course, he was more than happy to pull the transmission and rebuild it.

But,,,a couple of other weird problems have just developed in the past couple days. Yesterday, when pulling out of the driveway, all the gauges when to flat or "0"; gas, speed, oil, everything. Battery seemed fine and when I restarted the car a few minutes later it was fine. Also, the wipers tend to stop in mid-swipe every once in while, for about 20 seconds, then start again. This happens erratically, not like the normal time-delay option.

Right now the car is still under warranty with C.A.R.S. but only for another 400 miles or so.

Could this be a computer or electrical problem and not the transmission at all??

thanks for you help!

rick

northerner · June 2005

I had this exact problem, it only happened when i was turning in a specific direction. The light would not go on when i first started the engine, but would later go on when i made a turn. Your problem would most likely be your ABS sensor, the cables are not made very flexible so they do have a tendancy to crack and give out through time.

proux · June 2005

I found out what it was. Something blew a fuse next to the fuel pump fuse (EMB, or something like that). I took the car to the dealership and the jerks charged me $200 to tell me that something must be wrong, fuses don't blow for any reason, well it blew again 2 days later. And guess what? After $200, they "don't know what could be causing the fuse to blow, maybe the fuel pump or fuel filter. They are not 100% sure". Well, knowing that money doesn't grow on trees, I replaced the fuse again myself and learned a lesson. NEVER take you car to a dealership. I went there because my car insurance would reimburse the towing fee if it went to the nearest dealership. That was a waste. Now I need to figure out why the fuse keeps blowing. Anyone have a clue? Has this happened before? I asked them if they tested the voltage for the fuel pump to see if it was taking too much/ or not enough and they didn't even test it. By that point, I had to leave the dealership before I punched the guy in the face. That was a darn expensive fuse!

rileythedog · June 2005

new update.

I finally found a GM document that addresses the drivability issues I am concerned with. ID# 1561407 Front axle grind whine noise in 2wd gone in 4wd.
Date Oct 29 2004
I am a little miffed that after two months the truck is still at the dealer and both TAC and the dealer could not look in their own computer and find this document.

The document says to confirm the noise is coming from the front diff, check the ride height and if all is okay, replace the carrier/case assembly, spider gears pilot bearing thrust washer and right axle bearing. They already have replaced the axle and axle bearing.

Everything is still under GMPP.

hopefully this fixes it....

lilsherm51 · June 2005

HELP! how do i remove my starter on my 92 gmc jimmy, i got the 2 bolts undone but now i cant get it out....it seems that there isnt enought room!

PLS HELP!!!

madmaxd2001 · June 2005

hi.. am having the same problem as you above... plus many more..if u were able to solve or have suggustions on how to, please give me a shout.....thank u... Brian

alcan · June 2005

RWD or 4WD?

vtgmcjimmy · June 2005

I have a 2000 GMC Jimmy LT 4x4 with about 120k on it. Recently it has had problem changing gears. When ever it gets to the point where it needs to change gears it feels like the car is stalling out, won't accelerate, and the car rattles. This last for a couple seconds or so then it will finally change gears. Any ideas on what this could be? Fuel filter, transmission, trans fluid? I dont know?

proux · June 2005

Did you check the level and condition of the fluids? When was the last time the fuel filter was changed? Also check out the spark plugs.

lilsherm51 · June 2005

4wd

fkvbab · June 2005

Help please
Can anyone tell me where the interior lamp control module is located on this
vehicle. I went to the dealer and they said it was under the lower center of
instrument panel but there is nothing there but the flashers. I did find one box
on the left side of lower panel but it has an FCC ID number on it so I don't think
that's it.
thanks for any help I get..

alcan · June 2005

Starter
GM Blazer/Jimmy/Typhoon/Bravada 1983-1993 Repair Guide
FOUR WHEEL DRIVE TRUCKS

When necessary for access from underneath the truck, raise and support the vehicle safely using jackstands.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

On some vehicles access to the wiring may be easier from above. Before raising and supporting the vehicle, check to see if the solenoid wiring is accessible. If so, tag and disconnect it at this time.

2. On 2.5L engines, remove the brush end mounting bracket from the starter motor.
3. Tag and disconnect the solenoid wiring.

If the wiring is difficult to access with the starter installed, remove the bolts and partially lower the starter for access to the wiring. If this is done, be careful not to stretch or damage the wiring.

4. If not done already, raise and support the front of the truck safely using jackstands.
5. If equipped, loosen the retaining bolts and remove the skid plate.
6. Remove the retainers and the brackets holding the brake line to the crossmember located just behind the oil pan. Reposition the brake line slightly in order to clear the crossmember.
7. Remove the crossmember retaining bolts, there are usually 3 on each side, then carefully lower the crossmember and remove it from the vehicle for access.
8. As applicable and necessary, remove the bracket holding the transmission fluid cooler lines to the flywheel housing, brace rod to the flywheel housing and/or the lower flywheel housing.
9. Remove the starter-to-engine block bolts. When removing the last bolt, be sure to support the starter to keep it from falling and possibly injuring you.

On some vehicles, even with the crossmember removed, clearance for starter removal is tight. As the starter is lowered, it may be necessary to rotate it upside down in order for the end to clear the motor mount, then lower the nose behind the bell housing and rotate it back so the solenoid is on top and the starter may be removed.

10. Carefully lower the starter and shims (if equipped) from the vehicle.

To install:

11. Position the starter in the vehicle (along with any shims which were removed) and support while threading the starter mounting bolts. Tighten the starter mounting bolts to 30-33 ft. lbs. (40-45 Nm).
12. If removed, install the lower flywheel housing.
13. If equipped, install the transmission cooler line bracket and/or the brace rod to the housing.
14. Install the crossmember to the frame and secure using the retaining bolts.
15. Carefully reposition the brake line and secure to the crossmember using the retaining brackets.
16. If equipped, install and secure the skid plate.
17. Remove the jackstands and carefully lower the truck.
18. For the 2.5L engine, install the brush end mounting bracket.
19. Connect the solenoid wiring as noted during removal.
20. Connect the negative battery cable.

idrivethechevy · June 2005

I just recently replaced the starter on my blazer, after getting the two mounting bolts off i had to pull start away a bit to get to two wires, after disconnecting the wires to get it out of the tiny space i had to turn it and twist it in the area that it is in when installed correctly. I think i got it out with the selenoid on top and to the back, with the cone end coming out first while twisting and pulling, is difficult but with determination it will come out, much easier to get back in but hard to reconnect the two wires, and then after all that i found out that it wasnt even the starter that was the problem

idrivethechevy · June 2005

I saw the problems about the rear windshield wiper arm not going back completely into its place and not letting the rear window open, but my rear windshield wiper will not come loose from its little holder thingy to clean the window it sits there and makes a clicking noise. the only way to release it is to jump out of the truck and run back there and lift it up towards you and let it sit on the window and then it works but then afterwards it goes back into its little holder and wont come back out again any ideas on how to fix it??

kurbster · June 2005

I have a 1986 Jimmy 2-door Auto 2.8/3.4 conversion and I need to replace the wiring harness. It has nothing to do with the motor swap. My truck was stolen and the bad guys messed up the harness in several places and now it smokes and
melts all over the place. I'd just like to find a "new" wiring harness and install a new wiring harness on my Jimmy. Does anyone know the best place to purchase a wiring harness for my truck? Thanks for any and all help!

Kirby Martin
Dallas, Texas
kurbster@swbell.net

phreaking · June 2005

When thieves tried to steal my '96 GMC Jimmy they left a mess. I found the top cowling torn off. A file broken off in the ignition switch and two wires pulled out and their ends stripped. One of the wires hung free while the other was stuck in the ignition switch. I've replaced the damaged ignition/tumblers and put a new cowling on, but I don't know where the two wires go. The vehicle starts fine but I've noticed that my new battery runs down if the truck sits for a week. Is that natural or could those two wires be draining the battery down? I don't see anything else (dome light,etc.) on.

asclepeus · June 2005

I recently purchased a 97 jimmy when I looked at it at the dealership the check engine light was on I was told this was due to a O2 sensor which they replaced. I was doing some Hiway driving today and I noticed my RPM's would randomly drop 200-300 rpm. I stoppped to get gas and as I left the station the Check engine light came on and the rpm drop stopped (ran better after light came on)At this point my sister informed me she had run out of gas earlier today (coasted into the station) could any of this explain the engine light, and the rpm drop? and what would I need to do to fix it?

eli98 · June 2005

I have a 95s-10 Blazer that idles at 3000rpms in park. How can I adjust the idle. I also have a problem with the brakes. The brake pedal get's really hard and I have to stand on the pedal to stop. If anyone can give me some feed back it would be greatly appreciated. The check engine light is also on. Could that be causing all my other problems

dereck · June 2005

I see a issue like this has been posted before but I never got to see the answers. I have a 2000 Chevy 4x4 Blazer and I hoping someone can tell me what I need to do and what the cost will be to fix. Yesterday when turning left or right, after the turn the signal flasher on the dash turned off but the tick, tick, tick continued. I hear the noise coming from (relay for signal) switch in the glove compartment. When I use the brakes the ticking stops and then when release breaks, the ticking starts again! Without spending a lot of time and money does anyone know what I need to do?

phs39 · June 2005

I have a '96 4x4 jimmy that no matter which direction of air delivery I choose, it only comes out of the floor and windshield vents. It does this at the same time. Nothing comes out of the panel vents. The air conditioner and heater work as far as providing cold or hot air as well as the fan speed If anyone knows what might be causing this problem I would appreciate a reply.
Thanks

doorway · June 2005

I have exactly the same problem with the A/C and the 4WD. when i turn on the A/C it sometimes works and sometime the A/C led is blinking and the A/C will not turn On. I have 1998 Jimmy SLT.

I just replaced the A/C Controller but the same problem returned back two days after.

help will be appricated

hdmech1 · June 2005

I own a 97 blazer with a vortec 4.3 i am having problems with it bogging down under load pulling hills, towing etc. the check engine light will come on well climbing a hill and the engine will throttle down, after you have got up the hill the light goes out and everything is fine. The ecm won't log the code so i can scan it the condition does not occur well using cruise. any ideas??

thanks :confuse:

h00ch · June 2005

:confuse: I took my '99 Jimmy (with 65,000kms) in to get new rotors and pads on all 4 wheels and after getting this done I get a VERY bad vibration that shakes my whole vehicle. This only happens after reaching about 90km/h and just gets gradually worse from there. I took Jimmy back to the garage and they were very accomidating (Speedy Muffler) and took it out for a test drive, rotated the tires to see if the vibration moved, balanced all the wheels, out for another test drive, but nothing worked.

They said it must be a coincidence that something went wrong with at least one of my tires within the past week and has nothing to do with the brake work they did. There was about 3 or 4 days before and after getting the brake work done where I didn't go above 90km/h so I don't know for sure if it happened on the day they fixed the brakes. Anyways, they think that the steel belt in one of the tires must have slipped a little and all I could do is buy a new set of tires.

Can anyone tell me of anything else that may be causing this vibration and specifically if there's something that may have happened by putting on new rotors or pads?

hdmech1 · June 2005

have your wheel bearings checked

amanda3 · June 2005

I have the same year blazer and everything... I am having the same problem with it.... Have you figured out what it is yet.... Because I replace both rear calipers, rotors, pads, and hardware.... the only thing that I didnt replace was the emergency brake pad shoes....I think that they are the problem... :lemon:

rodr · June 2005

I had a similar problem with my 99 blazer. I added AC Delco fuel injector treatment purchased from the GM dealer. The gauge seems to be working fine now.

rodr · June 2005

ACDelco fuel injector gasoline detergent purchase from the GM dealer fixed the problem on my 99 Blazer

bruiser919 · June 2005

Hope this reply does not come too late. Save your money honey. I am also a single mom and have been doing my own brakes for years. I went from Camaros, to a Jimmy and have had no problems doing them myself. If you have past experience and feel confident with doing it, then I have to say definately the way to go. So many other things you could spend the money on. I would even offer to do them for you at n/c if you lived in my area? It's great to hear of another independent woman, I don't think there is enough of us willing to get into the coveralls.

gm4life1 · June 2005

I have a 1999 Jimmy 4x4 with Auto-Trac.

2Hi, 4Hi and 4 Lo all work. However, when in Auto 4WD, there is a shudder from underneath when starting from a dead stop, turning left or right from a dead stop, and when coming to a stop. I have know idea why 4hi works perfect, and Auto 4WD does not. I just changed the fluid in the front and rear diff so the levels are fine.

ALSO......is it normal for the transfer case to seem to slip when operating in 4 Lo when starting off. Today was the first time in 6 years i tried 4-lo, so i don't really know how it feels in comparison to other 4WD's. My 1981 Jimmy never did that in 4-lo, but its ancient compare to this one.

kevin53 · June 2005

It sounds as if it is the same problem. I have had the same issue with the wipers also. Even though I finally got the clicking to stop, the wipers still won't function from time to time. This happened both before and after I cleaned the circuits in the control arm. Since the wiper function on the control arm is limited to a plastic rotating sprocket that then turns something else further under the steering wheel column, I wasn't able to reach it and try to fix it. There are a ton of posts on this subject, but I short of replacing the control arm completely (~$300), I haven't seen any definitive fix-all.

fixmyown · June 2005

I own a 1999 Blazer 4X4. In 3 years I have replaced the left hub-bearing assembly 2x and am getting ready to replace the right side. Don't let a mechanic order the part for you. I made that mistake the first time and paid almost $500.00 for the part and labor. If you order the part from a parts store on the internet it will cost you between $125.00 & $175.00. Meineke will install the part for about $50.00. I ordered mine from partsamerica.com and it was 159.99 plus 8.00 for shipping. The part I ordered online is warrantied for twice as long as the other part was. Good Luck - I hope this helps.

jimmy97 · June 2005

You need to replace the wiper motor..I have a 97 Jimmy and mine went last winter had to replace it..You can get one for about $75.00 from a parts store..

donc3 · June 2005

I recently bought a 91 Jimmy with the control for the 4 wheel drive on the floor. It was set in nuetral. I placed it in 4 wheel drive and now it won't return to the nuetral position. I set the parking brake and had the transmission in nuetral. Is there a trick to this or something wrong with the transmission? Any suggestions is appreciated.

jlv2 · June 2005

Derek---
I bought a 2000 4X4 Blazer about 6 months ago. The car has been great, but about 2 weeks ago, the exact same problem you describe started. Did you ever receive a solution to this problem?

kevin_lee · June 2005

I had a 91 s10 blazer that had problems like that. I can't remember exactly how to do it (a hanes manual will tell) try adjusting your 4wd shift linkage it stretches when you get some miles on it.

jimmysulle · June 2005

well , heres my story used to own a 95 sls s-10 with a four cyl. and got 268,000 miles out of it , now a bought a 98 blazer from my boss 4 door beutiful truck and it had 213,000 miles on it and i paid 2500.00 bucks for it . Truck is just nice interior and body, runs really good it has alot of power for a vehicle with 213000 miles on it , have put it up to 10.000 miles on it allready in 3 monthes so that should tell you how reliable it is.

obxfisherman · June 2005

Helping my son replace the shocks on his 98 Jimmy 4WD. Rear shocks were easy, but I can't seem to find sockets/wrenches to fit the bolts/nuts holding the front shocks. Anyone know what sizes I need?

fueltank · June 2005

I am trying to open the 6 inch diameter fuel tank opening in the top of the tank. I can see some slots (3) and what appear to to locking tangs (2). How do I get it open to replace fuel pump???? How does it unlock? Does it rotate CCW to release? 1987 S-10 Blazer.
HELP... I REALLY NEED SOME HELP!!

timbemis · June 2005

an someone please help I have a 96 blazer 4x4 and all the sudden i have no Drive or overdrive.

It shifts from 1st to 2nd with no problem and reverse is no problem either but when attempting to go into drive its like it goes into a neautral state.

What should I look for before going to a garage?

dereck · June 2005

I replaced my relay switch behind the glove department and that still didn't fix the problem. After talking to a few other people and making a couple of calls it sounds like I have to replace my Multifuction switch. GM part # 2610-0837. It cost about $110.00 for a new one. I'm hoping this will fix the problem...

dereck · June 2005

New Question. 2000 Chevy Blazer: Does anyone know where to look for the Flasher under the dash? Or even know what it looks like?

dnoll · June 2005

I had the same problem. The service engine light comes on and it runs like it is getting to much gas. The only thing that would cure the problem for me was murphy's magic oil. I used it for years as a temporary fix. I got online about a year ago and found out that the problem is the EGR valve. It accululates carbon build up and causes it to malfunction even if you have a new one. There is a company in N.C. that charged me $10.00 for a screen that you mount at the point where the seal is on the egr valve. After 5 years of problems i fixed it with a $10.00 part. The guy that works on my blazer has sold about 5 more of these screens to fix the same problem.

adhdadoption · June 2005

Ill try to make this short. 1999 GMC Jimmy 4.3L Vortec engine, 4 wheel drive, 75000 miles. Bought used from dealer 3 years ago. Covered by a crappy, no name, 3rd party extended service plan, also bought from dealer. Car was financed with $11,000 still outstanding on the loan

I brought it in for service in February. I told the service manager that no non-covered repairs should be started until he called my husband and discussed it. It needed upper and lower ball joints (again), and a hub bearing assembly (again). Dealership also noticed a leaking lower intake manifold gasket. (I verified that the part number on the invoice was for the lower intake manifold gasket). All work authorized by us. Total bill was $1011.22 (the intake manifold gasket was $328.00, of which $229.00 was covered by the service contract.) We were not charged for flushing the coolant system or replacing coolant, and we were not charged for an oil change.

2000 miles later, the #6 rod bearing spun. The engine is a total loss. The service plan company requires a teardown, which we authorized because the car was well maintained. Coverage is denied because inspector found a radiator that was partially restricted with rusted Dex-cool, and because he noticed fairly new oil and oil filter, and claimed the oil was changed after the breakdown.

There is no oil visible in the coolant, or coolant in the oil. The oil was checked weekly, and was never low. The oil was changed a week before the bearing spun, and was not low then. The oil was not low after the bearing spun, and even when we heard it start knocking, the oil pressure gauge was OK. The temperature gauge was fine, too.

(We checked the coolant level in the reservoir tank at every fill-up, as required by the owners manual. It never needed a drop added. Why? Because the hose from the tank to the radiator was completely blocked with rock solid dexcool. Because it looked so perfect, we never opened the radiator cap.)

We look at the car after its been towed to independent mechanics lot. Take off
the radiator cap, and its disgusting, much worse than any pictures of dexcool contamination Ive seen on the web. The radiator itself is equally bad. The first thing I do is ask the service manager at the dealership why they didnt flush the coolant or replace the cap, since they MUST have seen the horrible condition of the thing when replacing the lower intake manifold gasket. (I dont think you can replace that gasket without losing coolant.) He said the radiator and cap were fine at that time, and we werent charged for coolant because they poured the old stuff back in. Well, one thing I am sure about is that that level of contamination didnt happen in 2000 miles. No way.

Questions I am desperate to have answered are:

How did they manage to replace the intake manifold gasket without noticing a BIG problem with the coolant? If they saw it, shouldnt they at least have said something or noted it on the invoice? (I have pictures of this stuff, and Im not exaggerating, believe me! I dont know how to upload them, but I can email them)

Is it even possible that they didnt replace the gasket at all? That would explain a lot (like why I wasnt charged for even a gallon of coolant), but would be unbelievably dishonest. Who would do such a thing for a measly $330.00?

If the car overheated, it did so without registering on the gauge, without smoke or smell, and without significant heat damage to the engine. If there was a lack of lubrication, it wasnt enough to register on the gauge or leave the car low on oil afterwards. So what happened? What could have caused this?

At least one bearing shell (is that the right term?) is badly scored, with little scratches all over the place. Could that be significant?

Are there any labs that will run tests on an oil filter, so I can prove the filter was there when the bearing spun? The oil is long gone, but the filter is still there.

How can I find an ASE certified mechanic that is experienced and honest and impartial to take a look at this thing and maybe suggest alternative causes? If I could find someone like that, how much would it cost? I live just south of Boston. If anyone has any suggestions or recommendations, my email is adhd@speakeasy.net.

I would be forever grateful for any information or insights you might have about all this.

SusanW

nyblazer · June 2005

I watched the mechanic replace my pump when I got stuck on I-95. He used a screwdriver on an angle with a hammer and gave medium taps on all 3 slots. Took him about 10 minutes to get the ring off. Cost me 900 bux to get back on the road! THIEVES!

fortheboat · June 2005

Is there a fuse for the fuel pump (mine is not activating with ignition) in the engine compartment? If so, where is it? I looked in the main fuse panel under the dash and could not find one marked fuse pump.

Thanks,.

ktmfreak99 · June 2005

Would any one happen to know where the blower motor might be.....under the hood?.......Under the dash? Cant seem to find it and have searched up and down and must be overlooking it or it is very well hidden but i dont think it is because the mechanics rate is only for 8/10 of an hour.

alcan · June 2005

Year and model?

ktmfreak99 · June 2005

sorry......it is a 1996 GMC Jimmy SLT 4x4 4.3L

Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

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