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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

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  • timbemistimbemis Posts: 6
    an someone please help I have a 96 blazer 4x4 and all the sudden i have no Drive or overdrive.

    It shifts from 1st to 2nd with no problem and reverse is no problem either but when attempting to go into drive its like it goes into a neautral state.

    What should I look for before going to a garage?
  • dereckdereck Posts: 3
    I replaced my relay switch behind the glove department and that still didn't fix the problem. After talking to a few other people and making a couple of calls it sounds like I have to replace my Multifuction switch. GM part # 2610-0837. It cost about $110.00 for a new one. I'm hoping this will fix the problem...
  • dereckdereck Posts: 3
    New Question. 2000 Chevy Blazer: Does anyone know where to look for the Flasher under the dash? Or even know what it looks like?
  • dnolldnoll Posts: 1
    I had the same problem. The service engine light comes on and it runs like it is getting to much gas. The only thing that would cure the problem for me was murphy's magic oil. I used it for years as a temporary fix. I got online about a year ago and found out that the problem is the EGR valve. It accululates carbon build up and causes it to malfunction even if you have a new one. There is a company in N.C. that charged me $10.00 for a screen that you mount at the point where the seal is on the egr valve. After 5 years of problems i fixed it with a $10.00 part. The guy that works on my blazer has sold about 5 more of these screens to fix the same problem.
  • I’ll try to make this short. 1999 GMC Jimmy 4.3L Vortec engine, 4 wheel drive, 75000 miles. Bought used from dealer 3 years ago. Covered by a crappy, no name, 3rd party extended service plan, also bought from dealer. Car was financed with $11,000 still outstanding on the loan

    I brought it in for service in February. I told the service manager that no non-covered repairs should be started until he called my husband and discussed it. It needed upper and lower ball joints (again), and a hub bearing assembly (again). Dealership also noticed a leaking lower intake manifold gasket. (I verified that the part number on the invoice was for the lower intake manifold gasket). All work authorized by us. Total bill was $1011.22 (the intake manifold gasket was $328.00, of which $229.00 was covered by the service contract.) We were not charged for flushing the coolant system or replacing coolant, and we were not charged for an oil change.

    2000 miles later, the #6 rod bearing spun. The engine is a total loss. The service plan company requires a teardown, which we authorized because the car was well maintained. Coverage is denied because inspector found a radiator that was partially restricted with rusted Dex-cool, and because he noticed “fairly new” oil and oil filter, and claimed the oil was changed after the breakdown.

    There is no oil visible in the coolant, or coolant in the oil. The oil was checked weekly, and was never low. The oil was changed a week before the bearing spun, and was not low then. The oil was not low after the bearing spun, and even when we heard it start knocking, the oil pressure gauge was OK. The temperature gauge was fine, too.

    (We checked the coolant level in the reservoir tank at every fill-up, as required by the owner’s manual. It never needed a drop added. Why? Because the hose from the tank to the radiator was completely blocked with rock solid dexcool. Because it looked so perfect, we never opened the radiator cap.)

    We look at the car after it’s been towed to independent mechanic’s lot. Take off
    the radiator cap, and it’s disgusting, much worse than any pictures of dexcool contamination I’ve seen on the web. The radiator itself is equally bad. The first thing I do is ask the service manager at the dealership why they didn’t flush the coolant or replace the cap, since they MUST have seen the horrible condition of the thing when replacing the lower intake manifold gasket. (I don’t think you can replace that gasket without losing coolant.) He said the radiator and cap were fine at that time, and we weren’t charged for coolant because they poured the old stuff back in. Well, one thing I am sure about is that that level of contamination didn’t happen in 2000 miles. No way.

    Questions I am desperate to have answered are:

    How did they manage to replace the intake manifold gasket without noticing a BIG problem with the coolant? If they saw it, shouldn’t they at least have said something or noted it on the invoice? (I have pictures of this stuff, and I’m not exaggerating, believe me! I don’t know how to upload them, but I can email them)

    Is it even possible that they didn’t replace the gasket at all? That would explain a lot (like why I wasn’t charged for even a gallon of coolant), but would be unbelievably dishonest. Who would do such a thing for a measly $330.00?

    If the car overheated, it did so without registering on the gauge, without smoke or smell, and without significant heat damage to the engine. If there was a lack of lubrication, it wasn’t enough to register on the gauge or leave the car low on oil afterwards. So what happened? What could have caused this?

    At least one bearing shell (is that the right term?) is badly scored, with little scratches all over the place. Could that be significant?

    Are there any labs that will run tests on an oil filter, so I can prove the filter was there when the bearing spun? The oil is long gone, but the filter is still there.

    How can I find an ASE certified mechanic that is experienced and honest and impartial to take a look at this thing and maybe suggest alternative causes? If I could find someone like that, how much would it cost? I live just south of Boston. If anyone has any suggestions or recommendations, my email is adhd@speakeasy.net.

    I would be forever grateful for any information or insights you might have about all this.

    SusanW
  • nyblazernyblazer Posts: 2
    I watched the mechanic replace my pump when I got stuck on I-95. He used a screwdriver on an angle with a hammer and gave medium taps on all 3 slots. Took him about 10 minutes to get the ring off. Cost me 900 bux to get back on the road! THIEVES!
  • Is there a fuse for the fuel pump (mine is not activating with ignition) in the engine compartment? If so, where is it? I looked in the main fuse panel under the dash and could not find one marked fuse pump.

    Thanks,.
  • Would any one happen to know where the blower motor might be.....under the hood?.......Under the dash? Cant seem to find it and have searched up and down and must be overlooking it or it is very well hidden but i dont think it is because the mechanics rate is only for 8/10 of an hour.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Year and model?
  • sorry......it is a 1996 GMC Jimmy SLT 4x4 4.3L
  • jal012773jal012773 Posts: 63
    I have a 2001 Blazer 4x4 that I have a question about. My 2 year old son loves for me to gas the Blazer then brake hard, bouncing us back and forth. I know that is murder on the gas mileage, but question concerns the transmission. Yesterday, as I was playing this game with my son, I heard a loud clank each time I hit the gas. Would this be an idication of a transmission problem? Since my extended warranty company (Platinum Warranty aka Warranty Wizard) just declared Chapter 11, I want to be prepared for what my lay ahead.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Here you go:

    Blower Motor
    GM S-Series Pick-ups and SUV's 1994-1999 Repair Guide

    Utility Models

    1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
    2. If equipped, remove the Vehicle Control Module (VCM) from the engine compartment.
    3. Remove the coolant recovery reservoir.
    4. Disconnect the blower motor cooling tube.
    5. Unplug the electrical connector(s) from the blower motor, as necessary.
    6. Remove the blower motor-to-case screws (the lower screw is on the bottom front of the cover).
    7. Disconnect the harness from the blower motor.
    8. Use a razor or utility knife to cut through the cover on the cut line as neatly as possible because the access cover has to be reinstalled.
    9. Starting with upper half of the cover, tear the remaining part of the access cover from the remaining portion. Then remove the lower half of the cover in the same manner.
    10.Remove the blower motor assembly.

    To install:

    11. Install the blower motor assembly.
    12. Connect the two halves of the access cover together using the three flange clips.
    13. Using black duct tape, place a piece of the tape along the bottom lower edge of the lower half of the lower cover only The tape has to be the full width of the cover.
    14. Install the access cover onto the case.
    15. Install the screw and align the cut areas.
    16. Seal the cut areas using black weaterstrip adhesive. Do not use RTV to seal the assembly. The weatherstrip adhesive bead should be as straight as possible to ensure a neat and professional finish to the cover. Allow the adhesive to set at least 15 minutes until it skins over.
    17. Attach the electrical connections.
    18. Attach the cooling tube and install the coolant recovery reservoir.
    19. If removed, install the VCM.
    20. Connect the negative battery cable and refill the coolant reservoir to the proper level.

    http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/jpg/small/0900823d8018be2f.jpg
  • hoserdudehoserdude Posts: 1
    My Jimmy's Electric Locks are going crazy. They keep locking the truck every two seconds! As soon as you unlock it, they lock it and the system keeps trying to lock it even when it already locked. help!
  • jandsamanjandsaman Posts: 1
    I have a '98 Blazer. It's been great and has only 94,000 miles on it. Lately, when I try to start it, sometimes it does nothing as if there is no power, or the gauges all go crazy and the messages flash on the dash as if it has been taken over by aliens! Sometimes it starts okay, and then it does this once I get going. It usually stops after a few seconds, but it is getting harder to start. Does anyone have any idea what could be causing this?
  • i have a 1986 full size jimmy and have recently lifted it 4 inches with 32s when i drive only while coasting , not braking or accelerating there is a noise like rubbing and grinding. i jacked it up in my driveway and let it coast and i think the driveline is at to much of an angle after the lift does anyone else have the same problem if so is there anyway to keep the stock driveline or should i wait until it brakes to buy a new one?
  • mr_nitzmr_nitz Posts: 3
    Bought a year ago - it is my first 4WD vehicle. 158,000Km. The thing that I noticed is that when I have it in 4WD Hi or Low, it seems as if it has to fight to move at low speed. For example when I turn into a parking spot, I really have to give it the gas to get it to move the last few feet, especially when turning at the same time. Same thing happens in reverse ie. backing out of the driveway. Anyone have any ideas what this could be a sign of or what could be in need of repair? Thanks in advance.
  • dtldtl Posts: 2
    Did you get an answer? If so what was the solution? I have a similar problem; My car does not start in the morning! I live in Aruba and we have day temperature of 85/90degrees. I suspect a condensation problem because at noon it start perfectly fine for the rest of the day, but the next morning same problem again, the motor turns, no battery, boegie, no cables, no fuel problems. two technicians checked out the car, fuel pump renewed approx. 1 year ago. Who can help me with this, please advice where or what to look for!! Thanks in advance for your help!!!
  • dtldtl Posts: 2
    My Chevy Blazer 97 does not start in the morning! I live in Aruba and we have day temperature of 85/90degrees. I suspect a condensation problem because at noon it start perfectly fine for the rest of the day, but the next morning same problem again, the motor turns, no battery, bougie, no cables, no fuel problems. two technicians checked out the car, fuel pump renewed approx. 1 year ago. Who can help me with this, please advice where or what to look for!!
  • I am having the exact same problem with my 2001 Blazer. Got any suggestions yet. I am afraid it is going to be the alternator.
  • you can look in the main fuse box under the hood on the drivers side after you open the fuse box look inside it and it will tell you. (Mabey)

    Thanks I hope this helps,
    Jared
  • wooddog52wooddog52 Posts: 2
    :cry: My 94 Jimmy stalls when its hot out while driving... its a 4.3L engine...It seems to run fine then it just stalls...it used to restart itself but lately I've had to pull over and put it into park and restart it [which it restarts without a problem]...At first I thought there was a water problem in the gas but have since ruled that out with Dry gas applications..We drove home 90 miles a few weeks ago and every 10 miles it would stall,later in the trip it was like every 2 miles....CAN ANY BODY HELP???? I hate to take it to our local mechanics as they just replace things till they seem to get them "right"...It seems to happen more when it's over 75-80 degrees...THANX
  • mr_nitzmr_nitz Posts: 3
    My 98 did the same thing. Found that it was the fuel pump. Keeping the tank more than a 1/4 full at all times when it's hot will help if this is the same problem as I had. Pump was noisy, made a whirring sound when under a quarter tank. Filling it up with nice cool fuel from the underground tanks quiets it and stops it from cutting out. Hope that helps.
  • wooddog52wooddog52 Posts: 2
    Thanx for the info but I'm not sure about it being a gas problem...it almost acts like a sensor or something electronic is getting too hot or overheated possibly causing the animal to stall then when its restarted it clears ...I'm not sure but I'm thinking this way...Though it does act similar to a vapor lock but then it does start right back up...Darn gremlins!!!!!!! I'm pulling my already thinning hair out in clumps!!!!!
  • auto9999auto9999 Posts: 86
    You do not have to worry about it in my opinion.

    I own my 2000 Blazer 4WD Trailblazer trim and I bought it as a new vehicle. My Blazer acts exactly as you described from the day I purchased. My previous Blazer, 1998 LS 4WD was the same.
  • I have a '96 Blazer and it just recently started doing the same thing...at low speeds and in reverse it tends to take a little more effort. I also had a question on what color my Radiator fluid is supposed to be. If you have help or any advice was given to you please help me out.
  • I had the same problem. My thermostat's gasket became warped and began to allow for small ammounts of fluid to be released over time. To repair it all I did was replace the themostat and gasket with a new one...cost about $8.00. Before you walk out of the store with a new theormostat, make sure there is one already in the package, or buy one to go with.

    To get to the thermostat follow the top right (looking at the motor from the front) coolant hose to the top of the engine. The thermostat is actually on the top of the engine, not the radiator.

    You'll need two deep socket drives to get the bolts out/loose. I found the best way to do it was to remove the air intake manifold (just unscrew the oversized butterfly nut)...the whole thing from where the airfilter is and back. Once you do that use the deep socket drivers to remove the nuts and bolts. You'll also benifit greatly using an extention (8") to get to the bolts.

    The piece that attaches to the motor/thermostat is hard metal, not rubber, the hose attached to that thing.It's also attached with only two bolts. Once the bolts are out you'll need to give it a good tug upwards to expose the thermostat.

    The thermostat lifts right out. Make sure to pay attention on how the thermostat was in because you'll need to stick a new one in the same way.

    Just reverese the steps to get it together and ...whalla!!!

    Oh...make sure you drain about a gallon of anti-freeze from the radiator or else it'll go everywhere when you pull the thermostat covering off.
  • The air conditioning in my Blazer works fine sometimes, but once in a while the A/C light on the dashboard will blink (3 times) and then it will not work for a while. It will blow out air, but it won't be cool.

    I actually stopped in at the dealership the other day when it wasn't working, and as soon as the car pulled onto the lot it started working again. Go figure....

    Any idea what this is and if it can be fixed cheaply?
  • warrenmanwarrenman Posts: 1
    I recently purchased a 00 Jimmy 2dr 4x4. Its a great truck, runs strong. One problem i have encountered (at least i think it may be a problem), is a rattle coming from under the hood. When accelerating or revving the engine, a slight rattle begins to make noise at about 2500 rpm. This happens whether it is sitting in park or if there is a load on the engine. It does not affect the performance at all. I have been unable to detect the exact point it is coming from. Has anyone had this ,and if so what did you do.
  • mr_nitzmr_nitz Posts: 3
    Mine is orange. It's called Dex-Cool. The right kind for your truck would be listed in the owners manual, but I'm reasonably sure if you have the 4.3L V6, it's Dex-cool as well.

    Cheers! :)
  • ddwriterddwriter Posts: 1
    Hi, I own a 1988 Chevy S-10 Blazer and the phantom wipe(r) deal is driving me nuts. When I put the turn indicator on, it wipes. Sometimes I'm driving down the road and a phantom wipe crops up. Any suggestions on how to fix?

    Thanks ddwriter
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