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Anyway, I did replace the motor, and so far, so good. Keeping my fingers crossed still though....
Linda
Any help is much appreciated~
We'll theyhave road force tested 12 "set's" of tires till they found a perfect set of good-year. Still had the vibration. District service manager takes it for a drive. Yep its tires try Michelin tires. Cost me 150 bucks for my brand new jimmy. Still vibrating even worse now. They are going to put back the "Perfect" Tires and have the service manager drive it again on the 18th of this month then he is going to likely tell me that they all have a vibration. Wrong!!!!!!!!!!!! I took a total of seven other Jimmy's out and found three that were as smooth as glass!
I have been cruising the Toyota dealers ! oh My Dad has sold his 2000 chev Silverado and has purchased a Toyota Tundra. He has been through three trucks with countless problems compared to my mothers Camry
Let youknow what he the district service manager has to say!
Evaorator unit: Not Ready
Oxygen Sensor Heater: Not Ready
EGR something: Not Ready
Today, it had 2 more Not Ready messages for a total of five!
Has anyone else had a similar problem? If yes, PLEASE give me some ideas on how to stop the nightmare. Ive had the truck for 3 weeks now and havent been able to drive it. SOMEONE PLEASE HELP!
I have managed to take the panel loose from the dash and it seems to be comming from the center of the unit.
Something electrical is burning I just can't get it tore apart far enough to find it.
Is there any links to disasembly instructs on this.
And / Or has anyone else had this problem.
Thanx
Dave :confuse:
My problem started last year when I lost my 4WD. It is the push-button system(NP-233).
The 1st thing I checked was the switch. It checked out ok. Next I checked for trouble codes. The only code was for an erratic speed sensor.
I came to find out that I had a bad wheel hub on the front left wheel. I replaced that.
After that, I replaced the ECM for the transfer case. Still nothing. So I break down and take it to the dealer to have it diagnosed. After a $100 bill, I was told that the mechanic replaced a fuse and tested and returned it to me.
That night when I was comming home from work, the fuse blew, the lighted switch for the 4WD went out, as well as the dash lights and the tail lights.
I looked in the fuse block and replaced the bad fuse, all seemed OK.
Since I hardly ever drive the Blazer after dark, I had no further problem.
When my son started his 1st job, I was required to pick him up as he had not gotten his drivers license. I started blowing that fuse almost nightly. Tonight it happened twice. It seemed to happen when I put on the brakes.
After thinking back to other repairs I had done that could have been related, I remembered that I did replace the brake booster about a year or so ago.
I'm not sure if this might have anything to do with it, but I thought I shoould mention it.
Thanks for any help you have,
Don Solomon
Durango, CO
Occasionally all the lights in the console light up like a christmas tree up (kinda like when the car starts up), then guages all go to zero and do not work and then when you accelerate you have to press the pedal down considerably to accelerate. Any ideas?
Also I would like to know what damage could have been done becuase when I bought the Blazer they had the tranny fluid in the differental and the differental in the tranny. I since have replaced ALL fluids and the dealer ship has reimbursed me for doing that. I dont know how long it was in there as far as we can tell there isnt any signs of damage showing up now.
Can't find any loose wires or connections. If anyone has an idea, please let me know.
Axle Shaft, Bearing and Seal
GM S-Series Pick-ups and SUV's 1994-1999 Repair Guide
1. Raise and support the rear of the vehicle safely using jackstands.
2. Remove the rear wheel and brake drum.
3. Using a wire brush, clean the dirt/rust from around the rear axle cover. This should be done to help prevent foreign material from entering the rear axle and possibly damaging the differential.
4. Place a catch pan under the differential, then unscrew the retaining bolts and remove the rear cover. When removing the cover, a small prytool may be used at the base of the cover to gently pry it back from the axle housing, breaking the gasket seal and allowing the lubricant to drain out into the container. Be careful not to use excessive force and damage the cover or housing.
5. Remove the rear pinion shaft lockbolt and the pinion shaft from the differential.
http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/medium/0900823d8018c464.gif
6. Push the axle shaft inward, then remove the C-lock from the button end of the axle shaft.
http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/medium/0900823d8018c466.gif
7. Remove the axle shaft from the axle housing by pulling straight back on the shaft hub, be careful not to damage the oil seal with the shaft splines.
8. If the bearing and/or oil seal is being replaced, use a medium pry bar to carefully pry the old oil seal from the end of the rear axle housing. DO NOT score or damage the housing oil seal surface.
9. If the wheel bearing is being removed, use the GM slide hammer tool No. J-2619, along with adapter No. J-2619-4 and the axle bearing puller No. J-22813-01, or the equivalent tools to pull the bearing from the tube. Be sure to install the tool assembly so that the tangs engage the outer race of the bearing, then use the action of the slide hammer to withdraw the wheel bearing from the axle housing.
To install:
10. Clean and inspect the axle tube housing.
11. If the bearing was removed, thoroughly clean the wheel bearing using solvent, then blow dry with compressed air. DO NOT spin the bearing with the compressed air or damage may occur. Inspect the wheel bearing for excessive wear or damage. If it feels rough, replace it.
12. With a new or the reused bearing, place a blob of heavy grease in the palm of your hand, then work the bearing into the grease until it is thoroughly lubricated. Using an axle shaft bearing installer such as No. J-34974, J-23765 or equivalents, drive the bearing into the axle housing until it bottoms against the seat.
13. If the bearing and/or seal was removed, use an axle shaft seal installer tool such as No. J-33782, J-23771 or equivalents to drive the new seal into the housing until it is flush with the axle tube. If a seal installer is not available, a suitably sized driver or socket may be used, just make sure the surface in contact with the seal is smooth so that it won't damage the seal.
14. Using gear oil, lubricate the new seal lips.
15. Using a putty knife, clean the gasket mounting surfaces on the housing and cover. Take care to keep material out of the differential housing. If necessary, place a rag or paper towels over the differential while cleaning the housing flange.
When installing the axle shaft(s), be careful not to cut the oil seal lips.
16. Slide the axle shaft into the rear axle housing, taking care not to damage the seal, then engage the splines of the axle shaft with the splines of the rear axle side gear.
17. Install the C-lock retainer on the axle shaft button end. After the C-lock is installed, pull the axle shaft outward to seat the C-lock retainer in the counterbore of the side gears.
18. Install the pinion shaft through the case and the pinions, then install a new pinion shaft lockbolt. Tighten the new lockbolt to 27 ft. lbs. (36 Nm).
When adding oil to the rear axle, be aware that some locking differentials require the use of a special gear lubricant additive.
19. Install the rear cover using a new gasket and sealant. Tighten the retaining bolts using a crosswise pattern to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).
20. Refill the rear axle housing using the proper grade and quantity of lubricant as detailed in Routine Maintenance of this repair guide. Install the filler plug, operate the vehicle and check for any leaks.
Thanks for the Help
Thanks
"I don't have access to a diagnostic reader so if any one knows how to jumper the connector to get a reading through the display let me know"
Nope. A code reader or scanner is required.
You can hear the lock working...actuator and sylenoid seem to be going good....replaced batter in key module just in case...didn't work. it is as if the glass part is just jammed for some reason. You can not take the back pannel off without opening the gate......am I just out of luck??
Heather
http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/medium/0900823d8018b80a.gif
I own a 1999 GMC Jimmy 4x4, 4 dr. 4.3 and last week the overheat warning came on while I was driving on I-95. The vehicle over heated and died before I could pull over. I had it towed home and replaced the water pump, thermostat, flushed the radiator, changed the oil and spark plugs. After all of that my vehicle will not start. It cranks but will not start. There was no radiator fluid in the oil and no oil in the cooling system. The Hayes repair manual does not seem to help much so can anyone please assist me in this major problem?
Thanks :sick:
Remove the plastic air intake cover and try to strat your engine (have someone else crank it) you'll see the spark arcing across to the heater hose. Put a new wire on and insulate it by covering it with a 3/8" dia rubber hose where it contacts the heater hose. It's arcing out to the water in the hose.
My 1998 Chevy Blazer has been doing this for the last 5 days. Man, I have been to several auto-electrical shops and have replaced the flasher twice.
Your explanation has been the best and makes the most sense of all. Just when I had reached the end of my rope. Thanks for the knot. I'll get back with you to let you know how it worked out. Peace out. Ebs57