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Briefly, here's the problem again: Upon highway driving, the transmission slams from frist to second gears (sometimes second to third gear). If you turn the key off for a minute or two, the transmission "resets" itself and returns to a smooth shifting transmission.
I've seen other posts with this same problem, and they state there are repair parts - anyone know what they are?
Briefly, here's the problem again: Upon highway driving, the transmission slams from frist to second gears (sometimes second to third gear). If you turn the key off for a minute or two, the transmission "resets" itself and returns to a smooth shifting transmission.
Do you know what the part was, or have a P/N ?
Recently, my serpentine belt has been sqeaking and I have been smelling something burning when I immediately exit my truck. It comes from the engine area and goes away very soon after opening the hood. I noticed a green coolant-looking sludge on the pass. side of the AC compressor. It was mixed with a rubbery black "spackling".
This past weekend when I turned on the defrost, it steamed up my windows (never defrosted) and smelled strongly like antifreeze.
My truck does have heat and AC and runs at a normal operating temperature. The water pump/thermostat was replaced last year and the system flushed.
Intake manifold gasket? Heater core? Both (NOOOO!)?
All advice appreciated!
Thanks
Make sure you change your oil after you replace the regulator as you probably have raw fuel mixing with your oil. Part cost 45 dollars at advance auto. Good luck to you.
We can't all be rhodes scholars like you.
http://www.transmissionspecialty.com/parts/parts/77754-Combo.htm
Generally, hosts aren't here to dispense professional advice. However, we are here to help you get the answers you need and I suggested means by which you could more readily accomplish that. If you have any further questions on hosting policy please take it to email.
Meanwhile, the "Roads Scholars" who frequent these boards can be an awesome source of knowledge! Good luck.
tidester, host
Thanks again for the advice!
OOPS, one more. Believe it or not, I think my diffriential cover has cracked...yes cracked. No I didn't hit anything - I think it's protected by the spare. It looks like the metal has just corroded thus causing leakage. I didn't think this was possible. Is this common? And do you know where to pick up another cover?
The 77754 kit adresses a worn TCC regulator valve bore in the valve body, and is more often the culprit. Reamer size and specific kit # depends on whether the valve body is original or a GM reman.
I don't have specific reamer sizes for any of the applications, suggest you prowl Sonnax's site or talk to your local independent trans shop.
Corrosion forms and migrates under the sealing surface, causing the leak. Removal of the cover and a tube of high quality silicone sealer usually fixes it.
Any help would be great. thanks Randy
Well I had the district service manager dealer service manager and the service rep all out for a drive at the same time. The DSM agreed my jimmy's vibration was excessive but said there is no fix. He offered me an additional $1000.00 with "the trade inn value" of my jimmy for a canyon. I freaked!!!!!! they wanted me to trade my Jimmy inn only to get into bed with them for a truck that is almost twice as much? to hell with that! #1 I would not except anything but a full refund. #2 They didn't have any Toyota's on the lot!
Well they pretty muched ****ed me over told me that that was the best they could offer. I declined the offer and am still driving the "Jimmy" (great name for it eh). But I did manage to get an extended warranty of 5yrs 100,000 km. If you want to band together to get it fixed i'm all for it. rambo has my email.
Good Luck
FLEXY
Sorry i am having a delay to your question, last week was crazy for me inspecting and registering this 95 jimmy. Anyway when my mechanic first checked out the codes with his "old" computer, he came up with P0441. He didn't exactly know what that was, thought is was related to the bad gas somehow---he suggested that I put octane booster in it to clean out particles or water. (?which i did?) Then i found out through caylorray that the code(P0441) was the evap. system, incorrect purge flow. The Jimmy passed NYS inspection last week, The service light is still on, and I had to go out of town for business this week, so had to re schedule another mechanic until monday, 10/17. sorry about the confusion.
p.s.---- the octane booster did seem to give the jimmy a little more boost, but SES still on.
daveyboy--if you are still out there-- did you have a any codes in the P0441 vicinity when you changed the fuel pressure regulator (was SES light on?) or is it just a good idea to change it for fuel economy and better running engine?(my 95 jimmy does run a little rough at times) I am going to mechanic on monday, so it would be a big help to know. Also, is it a big job for the mechanic? or could i maybe do it myself? Hope everything went ok with your car. maybe you could share with all of us here about what happened. is your service light still on? any further advice you or anyone could give regarding the fuel regulator would be greatly appreciated. Hope everyone and everyone's vehicle is well. thanks
Does anyone have any information on what this is / how to fix?
Thanks
HELP..........
sj
Now 5 days later the "Service Engine Soon" light has come on. Is this related to fuel sensor replacement?
Thanks!!!!
Windshield Wiper Motor
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the wiper arms from the linkage so the cowl may be removed.
3. Remove the cowl vent grille and screen. On some vehicles, the windshield washer hose may be connected to a hard plastic fitting located under the cowl grille. If the hose connection is very tight it may make removing the cowl grille difficult. Take your time if difficulty is encountered. If possible, reach underneath the grille to disconnect the hose from the fitting.
4. Remove the wiper transmission from the wiper motor drive link using J-39232 or an equivalent tool.
5. Unplug the wiring from the wiper motor.
6. Remove the wiper motor-to-cowl screws. Carefully rotate the motor and guide the drive link from the hole in the cowl, then remove the motor from the vehicle.
To install:
7. Guide the motor drive link through the hole in the cowl, then install the motor and secure using the retainers.
8. Install the drive link socket onto the crank arm ball using J-39529 or an equivalent tool. The wiper transmission assembly must be installed to the crank arm PAST the 2nd detent so that the seal is compressed to a maximum height of 1 in. (25.5mm)
9. Attach the wiring to the wiper motor.
10. Install the cowl vent grille and screen. On vehicles equipped with a plastic fitting attached to the cowl grille, the washer hose should be connected as the grille is positioned. Make sure the hose is not pinched or damaged as the grille is fastened.
11. Install the wiper arm and blade assemblies to the transmission linkage.
12. Connect the negative battery cable and verify proper operation.
http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d8018bf26.gif
I was wondering how you got the extened war? And did you have to pay for it? I tried fighting to get one with gm head office and they will not even give me a discount on one. If you could help me out that would great
I changed the flasher located behind the glove box, problem stoped for a week, now it is back.
Transmission shop checked it out and said it had an engine miss, and maybe it was
the cap and rotor, I changed that, but no help, I am now going to replace the coil and ignition module mounted on intake, fortunately I have an extra one, so I will see if that cures it.
anybody got an idea, you think Im going in the right direction?
It seems strange that you can only feel the miss when it is in lockup between 42-54 MPH, I respect the Tran shops diagnosis, I dont think he is giving me runaround, if the coil dont fix it , then I will change the plugs, it has 52000 mi. on it.
Thanks in advance for any help. Henry
plugs and wires are my next move, the cap/rotor, and coil/module didn't fix it .
I will let the fourm know how this turns out. Henry
Other info on the Jimmy – 75k miles, 2 wheel drive, 4 door, used for towing only once from IL to FL.
Any ideas what may be wrong?
Guy
Thanks!
You are a victim of the dreaded DexCool curse. I have had exactly the same problem with my '96 Blazer and went through two heater cores and an expensive six hour flush of the cooling system before I said "enough" and went to a local rad shop instead of the dealer. They knew right away what the problem was, back-flushed a load of crud from the system and put in the regular green ethylene glycol coolant. Not a problem in over a year. Soon after the rushing water sound started (it's water trapped in the core) I lost virtually all heat and in Ottawa, Ontario you sure need heat in winter. That will be your next symptom. As I said I'm new to this Forum and am shocked at the identical problems that many of us appear to have. My early '96 seems to be the cauldron in which the all the curses were brewed.