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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • maineboymaineboy Member Posts: 4
    I own a 95 Blazer bought about 4 years ago, the door had the same problem, dropping down and bit when opening and a little trouble closing. I just had the pin replaced in the hinge, oil change along looking over the truck for less money than you paid. But I think my Blazer is a money pit, I have spend more on repairs in 4 years driving only 20,000 miles than I have on my Honda Accord in 10 years while driving 187,000.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Carquest has both for $89.(4x4) and GMs will leak again anyway - been there. This is for a 4x4 and you have to remove the left drivers side engine mount bolt and jack the engine up 1/2 inch or so to pass the lines thru. If a 2wd the 1 set is cheaper and easy to put in. Remove the air filter box for both cause it saves time.
  • petetepetete Member Posts: 2
    I’ve found the solution, for the problem with the SECURITY (PASSLOCK) system of my 2000’ CHEVY BLAZER, symptoms as described:
    .-Illumination of the SECURITY LIGHT while driving (not a problem itself, but a warning)
    .-Many times, after starting the engine, it died, followed by the SECURITY LIGHT blinking. Any other subsequent start attempts gave the same results. But, after waiting for approximately 10 minutes, everything worked fine, as if nothing had happened (this behavior fits exactly for the PASSLOCK system protection: engine starts, but fuel feed is interrupted, then after 10 minutes normal operation is restored)

    After some research, I’ve found that the probable cause is that the system fails to recognize the ignition key as a valid one. After reading many possible procedures, I’ve made this recipe, AND IT WORKED PERFECTLY FOR MY BLAZER, for more than a week, so far. And I think it’s enough time, the problem was present everyday, to consider it as a successful solution. Hope it will work fine as it did to me:

    1.- Disconnect the battery for 15 minutes
    2.- Reconnect the battery, insert the key in the ignition switch, and turn it to the “RUN” position (Don’t start the engine, move it just to where the “warning” lights turn on) AND LEAVE IT UNDISTURBED FOR 15 MINS
    3.- Turn the ignition Off, remove the key, and wait for another 15 minutes before inserting it again

    After doing this simple and costless procedure the problem disappeared, I hope that forever.
    I would appreciate that, if you use this method, whether it works or not, please write me a line or two with your comments, so I can evaluate the reliability of this “recipe” and make it available for others.

    Carlos Romero
    Caracas, Venezuela
  • petetepetete Member Posts: 2
    I have a 00' Blazer, the brakes look as if I've never touched the pedal. It has only 50.000 Kms, but the pad wear is minimum.
  • ckk4ckk4 Member Posts: 13
    Hello All. 97 Blazer, 126K, original owner. I was driving it last night at it simply died after driving for about 15 minutes or so. Here's possibly the key info.....after it sat for roughly 5 minutes, I tried to start it again, and again. While I was trying to start it (when the key was past accessory) the inst panel lights did not illuminate.....then I turned the key, the inst panel lights illuminated, and it started (then subsequently quit after 10 seconds). So I let it sit for 20 minutes or so, same thing happened...did not want to start when key is being turned and the inst panel lights are not on. THEN finally, I turned the key - inst panel lights turned on, and it started...I drove it home thereafter. NOW it's sitting in my driveway and I don't know what the problem could be, abd I don't want to drive it in case it dies again. HELP????????

    Just thoguht of something else. You know when you turn the key and the inst panel light come on, and you can hear the fule pump kicking on? Obviously the times when I tried to start it, the insp panel light were not illuminating and the fuel pump did not kick on, thus not starting. But the thing that puzzles me is that it quit while I was driving it.
  • lowrider71lowrider71 Member Posts: 12
    I just bought a 96 Blazer this past summer back in May 2005 and am now having similar problem to yours. Misfire on Cyl 2 and 3, got three error codes:
    Misfire multi cylinder
    Fuel Trim bank 1
    Fuel Trim bank 2

    Did you ever get your problem figured out? I thought about fuel injectors but am not too sure if that's the problem.

    Replaced the following items but didn't fix anything:
    Spark plugs
    Spark plug wire
    rotor
    cap
    camshaft sensor
    ignition coil
    coolant temp sensor
    throttle position sensor

    Have you done any more part replacements? If so, what are they? I'm intersted in finding a solution and the more we figure it out the closer we can get to the culprit.

    I'd appreciate your response.

    Thanks a bunch!!!! And I'm pissed off at my Blazer cuz this is my second SUV I've owned. My first one, '89 Ford Bronco II was a nightmare. May not ever buy another SUV again.

    --Ralph
  • lowrider71lowrider71 Member Posts: 12
    Did you ever find out the problem is? I have EXACT same problem.
  • lowrider71lowrider71 Member Posts: 12
    Hey bud,

    I'm having same problem right now. EXACT same codes.......did you ever get it fixed or figured out?

    --Ralph
  • lowrider71lowrider71 Member Posts: 12
    did replacing the catalyic converter solved your problem? I didn't realize that the catalyic converter could cause backpressure to put the valve open at idle and flooding. I'm experienceing this:
    1) hard to start if I turned the key and hold it but if I turned the key quickly in like three short bursts then it starts up fine.
    2) rough idle
    3) sometimes don't accelerate smoothly from stop and had to mess with the gas pedal to get it going.
    4) sometimes misfire at 55mph
    5) excess gas smell
    6) service engine lights on sometimes it goes away
    7) got the misfire P0300 code (multi-cylinders)
    8) Cyl 2 and 3 are misfiring very high
    9) also got Fuel Trim codes Bank 1 and Bank 2 which I think are P0171 and P0172.

    Any suggestions? It got to be one part that is causing all of this. I'm at a dead-end. Thought I would replace fuel injectors but after reading the forums, it doesn't seem that it's the problem. And plus I haven't see any solutions anywhere. Nobody seems to really have any solutions.

    I noticed you've been tracking this forum for quite some time so I thought you might know something that I don't know.

    Any help would be kindly appreciated.
  • lowrider71lowrider71 Member Posts: 12
    Did you ever get your problem figured/fixed?
  • lowrider71lowrider71 Member Posts: 12
    I had that problem too. It's because there's a rod attached to the motor which unlocks the latch. On the end of that rod is a stupid little plastic "hook" that attach to the latch. It broke off. How was I able to release the upper window hatch from the tailgate?? A pain in the [non-permissible content removed] process. I had to get inside the truck up to the tailgate and I used some big wedges to pry open the tailgate panel where the window meets the tailgate in the middle plus I used a ratchet strap with S hooks on them to pull the panel back as far as I could go without breaking the panel, just enough for me to look inside. I had to use a screwdriver, you might have to bend it to make it like a curved and it took me 15 minutes to find the latch which I released it with the screwdriver which popped my window open. From here, I was able to manually open my tailgate. You might need a shoplight or a flashlight to look in there to unlock it.

    Once I had the tailgate opened, I removed the panel and saw the problem. In order to replace the plastic endpiece to the latch rod, I just took the old plastic endpiece off and removed the motor. I worked on the rod that comes out of the motor and took a foot long wire and bent it in half to double strength it. Then I made a hook out of it to attach to the latch. It worked. Never had a problem since then.

    It's been 3 or 4 months ago when I done this so my memory isn't that great but at least I gave you some general idea. When I get a chance, I'll pop my panel off and take some pictures of it and could e-mail it to you. You can e-mail it to me as my address is in my profile.
  • lowrider71lowrider71 Member Posts: 12
    check my post#1783. I fixed mine.
  • lowrider71lowrider71 Member Posts: 12
    You mentioned that once the Central Sequential Port Injection System goes out, it's replaced with Multiport Injection System. I was told by my mechanic that in order to replace with Multiport Injection would requires replacing the computer and the wiring harness. Is that true? Or is the Multiport Injection Assembly still compatible with the existing computer/wiring harness?
  • jcblazerjcblazer Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I'm actually going through the same problem. Every time I try to start my car, it spudders and then just shuts off. The problem is becoming more and more frequent, but it always starts....at least right now. At first it took 3 times to start, but now it is up to like 12 tries until it starts up...and is gradually getting worse...
    Anyone have any solutions to this problem? Please let me know before I go blow $$$$ at a garage....
    Thanks, JC
  • makpiettemakpiette Member Posts: 5
    I have a '98 with 82K miles. Same problem. I bought the thermostat, but flushed the heater core first before installing it. That did the trick, so now I have an extra thermostat on the shelf. Give that a try.
  • findleyfindley Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1993 GMC Jimmy LT 4x4 w/ the 4.3 z code motor. I had a problem getting it to start one day, so i decided to check the spark. Wasn't there so I checked it at the coil. Not there either. Pulled cap off and decieded to replace the cap, rotor, coil, module. Had spark but not fuel at the intake manifold. Checked pressure before fuel filter, was good there, decieded to change out fuel filter. Now I have fuel at the rail, I have spark at the plugs, and I know that I have compression since it was running like a purebreed just a day before. Uses very little oil, and is changed religiously every 2800 miles. I've got 160,000 on this old dude and it does go off road. What now, does anyone have an idea on which direction to go to now?
  • few2few2 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1995 GMC Jimmy 4WD and have leaky oil cooler line, not the one that goes underneath towards the transmission but the one that goes to the radiator.
    I cannot find this part or a part number anywhere, the closest thing I could find online was an "oil cooler pipe" for a 1996 Jimmy which from what I can tell looks like the part I need. The only one I find anywhere is Dorman p/n 625103 or similar from differn't manufacturers.
    Can any one point me in the right direction?
  • lowrider71lowrider71 Member Posts: 12
    Hey guys,

    I'm pasting my posts from another forum so I can share them with you. There are two posts. LONG ONES but well worth the readings.

    POST #1
    ==========================================================
    I've got a good challenge for you if you're up for it and see if you can help me figure out the root case of my problem without causing me to drain my bank account. If you do have the answer, I would be forever grateful and will show my appreciation accordingly.

    I have been sitting here looking through another forum and this forum and am no closer to finding my answer. I decided to stop trying to second guess and chase down a problem in the dark and draining my bank account.

    I've noticed a lot of people had similar problems to mine but no true solution.

    I have a '96 4x4 4-doors BLAZER with CSFI and Eng Code W, of course 4.3L Vortec, what else would it be???

    I've decided to stop wasting time pouring through the forums with no answers in sight. I probably could spend a whole week and not find any answer. I mean, I figured that's what this forum is for, to seek help. Plus I figured that since it's a 1996 truck and now this is Year 2005, I would think that in those 9 years that has passed, SOMEBODY would have the answer which is why I'm here. I'd really appreciate the answer because I want to get my truck fixed ASAP so I can get through this winter season.

    Here's the symptoms I'm currently experiencing:

    1) hard to start if I turned the key and hold it but if I turned the keyquickly in like three short bursts then it starts up fine.
    2) random erratic idle
    3) sometimes don't accelerate smoothly from stop and had to mess with the gas pedal to get it going.
    4) sometimes misfire at 55mph
    5) service engine lights on sometimes it goes away
    6) got the misfire P0300 code (multi-cylinders)
    7) Cyl 2 and 3 are misfiring very high
    8) excess gas smell (possibly running rich due to #2 and #3 misfiring and possibly running lean, causing other four cylinders to run rich)
    9) also got Fuel Trim codes Bank 1 and Bank 2 which I think are P0171 and P0172.

    Here's the list of parts that I've replaced but no success in solving the problem. In fact, they are the common parts being replaced by other Blazer owners while trying to track down the root cause without success. I'm trying to go through process of elimination to further narrow down to the root cause.

    Coolant Temperature Sensor
    Throttle Position Sensor
    Ignition Coil
    Spark Plugs
    Spark Plug Wires
    Rotor
    Cap
    Camshaft Sensor
    Fuel Pressure Regulator (my old one was faulty cuz the diagphram ring around was ripped, like a blown speaker).

    My problem is exact the same as DANNK's problem but the postings has stopped back in Feb 2005 and I was hoping that he found a solution so I'm not sure what's up with that.

    He replaced the following items which didn't solve his problem:

    Replaced fuel filter (6 months ago) - seperate issue
    Replaced fuel pump (5.5 months ago) - seperate issue
    replaced plugs and wires (3 months ago)
    replaced distributor cap and rotor (2.5 months ago)
    replaced ignition coil pack (2 months ago)
    replaced ENTIRE fuel injection system (2 weeks ago) ($350!!!) (not easy)

    My fuel pressure is within spec.
    Key on, 60 psi pressure held steady
    Engine running approx 56 psi. pressure held steady when idling.
    Fuel pressure held steady after shutdown.
    Therefore, that rules out fuel filter.

    Seafoam cleaner does nothing for me. It was recommended by my mechanic but he's full of sh*t.

    Any suggestions? It got to be ONE SINGLE PART that is causing all of this. I'm at a dead-end. Thought I would replace fuel injectors but after reading the forums, it doesn't seem that it's the problem. And plus I haven't see any solutions anywhere. Nobody seems to really have any solutions.

    I've seen that EGR replacement has fixed it but I've also seen that it was only temporary and problem came back.

    I've seen Crankshaft Sensor replacement has solved the problem but not always.

    Gas stations is not relevant since it has nothing to do with gas in my case. I've been using 87 octane which is what the manual recommended anyway.

    What about the Catalytic Converter being bad? Any way I can tell if it's bad or not?

    It could be MAP sensor, it could be MAF sensor, it could be Idle Air Valve assembly, it could be Top Dead Center sensor located on tranny's bellhousing. Hell there's too many possibilities and I don't want to waste money on those if it turns out NOT to be the culprit.

    My hunch is telling me that it's probably more likely a combination of three things, maybe four........ Crankshaft Sensor, EGR valve, Catalytic Converter (due to bad fuel regulator which is replaced), and MAP sensor. Hell if I know.

    That's why I need your help. I'm hoping that there is actually someone out there WITH THE SAME PROBLEM as mine and have FIGURED OUT THE ANSWER to the problem would respond to me so I can get over with my ordeal.

    I don't want any second guessing or whatsoever, if you KNOW FOR SURE that you got the answer, please do share with me. If you are not SURE then I'm willing to listen to your suggestion because I'm at my wit's end.

    Thank you very much.

    POST #2
    ==========================================================
    Here's my latest update on my '96 Blazer problem.

    Folks.....please forgive me if this is rather long message but I want this to be informative and share my experience as well as my perspective and opinions. However, I really appreciate all of your comments that you have provided to me. Thank you for taking the time to do that.

    I felt it would be unfair to those who may join this forum or continue to experience same problem as mine by not sharing my experience with everyone.

    I'm not saying that the way I fixed my problem will work for everyone. But at least I I think I would probably be safe to say at least try this approach first as the best starting point instead of wasting your money on those other unnecessary parts like everyone and I did when you might want to try the ones I've done first before trying the rest of the parts.

    I just want to spare everyone the financial and emotional heartaches that I had to suffer and others before me as well and to spare those from getting ripped off by dishonest mechanics. There are such honest mechanics out there and a big salute go to them for conducting honest business.

    If someone disagree with me with anything I said below or wish to add additional information, I welcome your reply. I'd like this to be educational for other unfortunate vehicle owners with same situation since the Big Three are so incredibly unreliable in help their customers out. I'd like for this to be the first stop before blowing all kind of money on various parts that I mentioned in my first post.

    One last thing..... for those who are new to this and are experiencing same problem.....please read my first post above.

    Here we go..
  • lowrider71lowrider71 Member Posts: 12
    Have you tried AutoZone.com website? I looked it up for my '96 Blazer by going to Shopping link, put in the word "cooler" and found an item that said "COOLER LINE - ENGINE OIL", clicked on it and got the part list.

    DORMAN COOLER TUBE part# 625-100 3 MO warranty for $25.99.

    From what I've read, there seems to be a common problem with the crimping area going bad. I've seen recommendation to replace with a regular hose and clamps. I've had some experience with other certain crimped hoses coming apart at the crimp area in my other cars and I just cut the hose near the crimp, used Dremel with cutting wheel to cut the aluminum pipe to remove the crimped part off and just slided the hose on the pipe and put clamp on it and it worked for me. That's my poor man's method. You might want to flare the pipe a bit and remove any burrings before reattaching the hose. The flare will provide a better seal inside the host to prevent any leakage. Good luck!!!

    --Ralph
  • few2few2 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the help lowrider. That seems to be the part I need but I need it for a 1995 Jimmy, in which I can't find it listed anywhere for a 95. It's almost like it doesn't exist. I'm tempted to get the part listed for a 96 and see if it works on my truck.
    Or I may try what you suggested, but the way I feel about it I may as well buy a new part if I'm going to be laying under my truck in 20 degree weather. If it were warmer out that would be another story.
  • covah23covah23 Member Posts: 14
    I have a 1996 SLE Jimmy 4x4. When I turn the wheel to the right, I get this strange noise from the right front wheel area. I don't even have to turn the wheel but a 1/4 inch off of center and I hear this sound like rubbing tires. There is nothing the tire touches at any point of the turn, but that's what it sounds like. It's not a grinding like a Cv Joint. I know some about vehicles, I've had 12 and I'm only 27, but this is a mystery and I've only had this truck a week. Any ideas?
  • covah23covah23 Member Posts: 14
    4WD don't turn well at all...not designed for that.they will do fine on road curves just fine, but if you're in a parking lot moving around, you're screwed. the joints won't move that far. Plus, make sure you don't use 4WD on dry pavement..it will wear it out a lot quicker. If you have push button, turn it on 2HI in low speed, sharper turn areas ( i.e.: parking lots, drive thrus, etc. )
  • makpiettemakpiette Member Posts: 5
    I did a search and found many comments about broken seat recliner levers, but couldn't find recommended solutions. I have the same problem. I looked on eBay and found a lot of replacement handles for sale for the Jimmy. The sellers claim these are perfect for fixing the well-known defect in these handles (brittle metal). Anyone ever try one of these cheap fixes? How did it work, if at all? Seems like a much cheaper alternative than having the dealer replace the entire seat mechanism, if it works.
  • gadrivergadriver Member Posts: 1
    Hello! This summer, my left front axle snapped while I was driving - cost almost $1,200 to repair. Now, the right front axle is hard to turn - trying to get it repaired before it snaps. Please inform me what the cost to repair this should be- ball park. And is there anyone near Roswell/Alpharetta GA that you would recommend? Thanks!
  • tonnyxtonnyx Member Posts: 8
    Could it be the wheel bearing? I had to replace mine last year, and the symptoms sounds the same.
  • rschmitrschmit Member Posts: 2
    is it normal to hear a clunk when shifting from 2 to 4 hi and back
  • rschmitrschmit Member Posts: 2
    what is the normal price to replace a fuel pump in a 95 jimmy think i got taken
  • covah23covah23 Member Posts: 14
    No. The 4wd doesn't have wheel bearings, but cv joints. the boots are in great shape, the tires are new and balanced and is aligned. It even makes the rubbing type of sound if i go from the left lane to the right lane. never seen..or heard anything like it before.
  • painkiller1990painkiller1990 Member Posts: 2
    My truck won't start after just ging through that major ice storm 48 hrs ago. It cranks over and the engine gives that little jerk like it normally does when it starts except it's not starting. Also, after cranking it i smell gasoline. I thought maybe my gas lines were frozen but then I wouldn't smell gas. So, I assume something is wet. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

    Andy :(
  • tonnyxtonnyx Member Posts: 8
    Hmm. That's strange that you say there are no wheel bearings. I have a '98 Jimmy SLS, 4wd, and it definitely had its front right wheel bearing replaced.

    Here's a link to what you might need:
    AutoZone link to front wheel bearing/hub assembly
  • covah23covah23 Member Posts: 14
    Just meant that they wee not the exact same thing. 2wd and 4wd have different components on the front. bearing are fine. thanks for the heads up though. pulled it ALL off today...everything checks out, even though i did replace the rotor. Noise is still present. guy at the shop said it may be the steering gear box. $230 for that. i'm going to do some more checking though. between that and cv joints, i hope the problem doesn't cost a lot.
  • mkunklemkunkle Member Posts: 4
    I don't have a Blazer, but I've had a couple cars with bad plug wires that wouldn't start after it rained. If that's the case, you would smell gas after it got flooded.

    Good Luck,

    Matt
  • mkunklemkunkle Member Posts: 4
    I'm looking to trade in my crappy 2000 Windstar on a 2000 Blazer. It's a 4dr, LT package, loaded, 71k miles. What problems should I look for? The dealer said he just replaced the module in the transfer case at $600. I just spent $1600 to have the trans rebuilt in my Windstar and can't afford another lemon. The vehicle looks immaculate, but looks can always be deceiving, especially from a dealer. Any advice is greatly appreciated.
    Thanks,
    Matt
  • mkunklemkunkle Member Posts: 4
    You can get the replacement handles at AutoZone for $25 in the Help section. I haven't got one yet, but they look like a good design.

    Matt
  • jomammajomamma Member Posts: 2
    Change your ignition switch wiring in the steering column
  • sockpuppet1969sockpuppet1969 Member Posts: 308
    If you "can't afford another lemon" you should run as fast as possible from any and all Blazers. Not to mention safety concerns.

    :lemon:
  • dagarnolddagarnold Member Posts: 1
    Does anyone know How to wire the electronic speedometer for a 91 Blazer. There are two wires on the sending unit and four on the speedometer. Thanx, dagarnold
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    The 2 wires from the VSS go to the Digital Ratio Adapter Controller. The DRAC converts the A.C. input from the VSS to a digital signal which is sent to the speedo, cruise control module, and ECM. It's in the right lower corner of this diagram:

    http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d8012b28f.gif
  • ckk4ckk4 Member Posts: 13
    Hello All;
    OK, I've got the codes for my 97 Blazer, but I need advice on what to do/how to fix. Thanks - Dave
    P0146 O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 1 Sensor 3)
    P0304 Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected

    Part numbers & location of parts would be helpful as well. Thanks again.
  • debiasdebias Member Posts: 1
    I have plenty power coming through but the engine won't crank over. Anyone have any advice. Last time this happen it had something to do with the car not being in Park. Is there any key turning sequence to reset the car to thinking it is in park. It will not start from neutral either?
  • cpfeifercpfeifer Member Posts: 1
    I have a '99 GMC Jimmy 4x4. My 4WD was not working. The light would flash but not engage. I took it to a transmission shop who changed the motor in the transfer case. The problem is the 4WD lights on the dash do not light and the Service 4WD light now appears. The transmission shop said there is power to to the motor, but they can't figure out how to get the 4WD lights to work - or to engage. They suggested going to a dealer who might have a "tech 2 diagnostic scanner" which could figure out the problem, but I am reluctant to go to a dealer and get raked over the $$$$ coals. Has anyone seen this - if so, suggestions on how to fix it?? Thanks!!
  • ckk4ckk4 Member Posts: 13
    Also, does anyone know where the bank 1, sensor 3 is located on a 1997 blazer?
  • steve96steve96 Member Posts: 7
    Ever see something called the 4X4 Posi-Lok? It's a mechanical (cable) linkage that does away with a lot of the engagement problems associated with the vacuum and electric systems. I was thinking of putting one in my 96. Anyone have any experience with this? It looks good and simple to install.
  • dremonasdremonas Member Posts: 1
    I HAVE 1995 BLAZER 4WD STARTED GETTING COLD OUT & DIDNT WANT TO START UP RIGHT AWAY. CHECKED ALT. & BATTERY {NEW} THEY WERE BOTH OK. I HAD THE STARTER REPLACED AND THOUGHT IT WAS A DONE DEAL, NO., SAME PROBLEM THAT NIGHT AFTER IT HAD SAT FOR 4HRS. IT EVENTUALLY STARTED & WENT STRAIGHT TO AUTO ZONE TO RETURN OLD STARTER & HAVE IT CHECKED. THINKING IT WAS GOING TO BE GOOD & BECAUSE CHANGING IT DIDNT FIX MY PROBLEM, IT WAS BAD. TOOK IT TO HAVE IT LOOKED AT WHERE I HAD MY OIL CHANGED AND THEY HAD MY TRUCK FOR A WEEK AND HAVE KNOW IDEA WHAT COULD BE WRONG. THEY CHECKED EVERYTHING INJECTORS, FUEL PUMP, DISTRIBUTER, THEY HAD TO LEAVE IT OUTSIDE OVERNIGHT SO THEY COULD SEE IN THE A.M. WHAT IT WAS DOING FROM BEING OUT IN THE COLD. {ONCE I GET IT RUNNING FOR THE DAY IT STARTS PERFECTLY.} THEY THOUGHT ALL IT NEEDED WAS A TUNE UP,HA! DON'T I WISH, IT'S STILL NOT FIXED & THEY DON'T HAVE A CLUE & ARE STILL HELPING ME SEARCH FOR THE SOLUTION. ANY INFO WILL HELP & GOOD LUCK! FORGOT TO MENTION, WHEN I TURN THE KEY OVER I WAIT TO LISTEN FOR THE INJECTORS & 5 OUT OF 10 TIMES NOTHING HAPPENS. AFTER REPEATED ATTEMPS TO START IT WHEN ITS COLD THE BATTERY GOES DEAD BUT AFTER LETTING IT SIT FOR A WHILE THE BATTERY WILL BE FINE. LIKE IT RECHARGES ITSELF??? ALSO, A VERY STRONG GAS SMELL WHEN I DO GET IT TO START
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    I suggest turning off your CAPS LOCK. People tend to ignore posts written in ALL CAPS. Kinda hard on the eyes ...!

    tidester, host
  • tburttburt Member Posts: 1
    I have a 98 blazer that cranks well, gets a spark has a charged battery and a fairly new starter with tight connections and no corrosion. I live in MI so its cold and the gas was around 1/4 tank, I tried adding more gas and some drygas and it still won't start. I noticed it was getting sluggish before it stopped starting. I can hear the fuel pump buzzing fine, I am going to replace the fuel filter but don't have any ideas after that without pulling up codes. Any ideas would be appreciated.
  • llxl_69_llxllllxl_69_llxll Member Posts: 4
    i cant figure this darn forum out. *new user* I recently replaced oxygen sensors in my 1998 blazer everyone has told me there are 4 of them but i can only locate 3 of them. i need help locating 4th. *2 on Y pipe 1 after each exhaust manifold* and 1 directly after cat. 4th MIA Please help
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Are you sure there are four?

    monkeyhead, "Chevy Blazer/GMC Jimmy: Problems & Solutions" #649, 14 Feb 2003 10:33 pm

    Try a Search This Discussion for sensor; maybe some of those posts will help while waiting for responses.

    Steve, Host
  • llxl_69_llxllllxl_69_llxll Member Posts: 4
    No im not sure iv looked everywhere but 2 napa's , 2 auto zones and a o'reilys told me there where 4 of them so i dunno, gonna check with chevy dealer after holidays if anyone hasent solved problem on here
  • llxl_69_llxllllxl_69_llxll Member Posts: 4
    reason for changing O2 sensors, after reading your post im worried :( refering back to post #649 by monkeyhead, having similar problems, but not exact on my 98 blazer i do not have rough idle idles fine. but when i get on it *mainly in cold weather* it has slow acceleration at pretty much any speed reves high but very slow speed gain at around 4500 rpm's will start sputering the other nite i could barly run 50 down the interstate *15 degrees outside*. service engine light would come on and off roughly every other day?? diagnostics told me at local dealer all O2 sesors are lean and need replaced, posible bad fuel pump.... replaced 3 out of who knows how many O2's now lol last nite ran great after replacing but this morning only did it on initual take off fine rest of day , any ideas?
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