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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

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  • I had that problem too. It's because there's a rod attached to the motor which unlocks the latch. On the end of that rod is a stupid little plastic "hook" that attach to the latch. It broke off. How was I able to release the upper window hatch from the tailgate?? A pain in the [non-permissible content removed] process. I had to get inside the truck up to the tailgate and I used some big wedges to pry open the tailgate panel where the window meets the tailgate in the middle plus I used a ratchet strap with S hooks on them to pull the panel back as far as I could go without breaking the panel, just enough for me to look inside. I had to use a screwdriver, you might have to bend it to make it like a curved and it took me 15 minutes to find the latch which I released it with the screwdriver which popped my window open. From here, I was able to manually open my tailgate. You might need a shoplight or a flashlight to look in there to unlock it.

    Once I had the tailgate opened, I removed the panel and saw the problem. In order to replace the plastic endpiece to the latch rod, I just took the old plastic endpiece off and removed the motor. I worked on the rod that comes out of the motor and took a foot long wire and bent it in half to double strength it. Then I made a hook out of it to attach to the latch. It worked. Never had a problem since then.

    It's been 3 or 4 months ago when I done this so my memory isn't that great but at least I gave you some general idea. When I get a chance, I'll pop my panel off and take some pictures of it and could e-mail it to you. You can e-mail it to me as my address is in my profile.
  • check my post#1783. I fixed mine.
  • You mentioned that once the Central Sequential Port Injection System goes out, it's replaced with Multiport Injection System. I was told by my mechanic that in order to replace with Multiport Injection would requires replacing the computer and the wiring harness. Is that true? Or is the Multiport Injection Assembly still compatible with the existing computer/wiring harness?
  • Hi, I'm actually going through the same problem. Every time I try to start my car, it spudders and then just shuts off. The problem is becoming more and more frequent, but it always starts....at least right now. At first it took 3 times to start, but now it is up to like 12 tries until it starts up...and is gradually getting worse...
    Anyone have any solutions to this problem? Please let me know before I go blow $$$$ at a garage....
    Thanks, JC
  • I have a '98 with 82K miles. Same problem. I bought the thermostat, but flushed the heater core first before installing it. That did the trick, so now I have an extra thermostat on the shelf. Give that a try.
  • I have a 1993 GMC Jimmy LT 4x4 w/ the 4.3 z code motor. I had a problem getting it to start one day, so i decided to check the spark. Wasn't there so I checked it at the coil. Not there either. Pulled cap off and decieded to replace the cap, rotor, coil, module. Had spark but not fuel at the intake manifold. Checked pressure before fuel filter, was good there, decieded to change out fuel filter. Now I have fuel at the rail, I have spark at the plugs, and I know that I have compression since it was running like a purebreed just a day before. Uses very little oil, and is changed religiously every 2800 miles. I've got 160,000 on this old dude and it does go off road. What now, does anyone have an idea on which direction to go to now?
  • few2few2 Posts: 2
    I have a 1995 GMC Jimmy 4WD and have leaky oil cooler line, not the one that goes underneath towards the transmission but the one that goes to the radiator.
    I cannot find this part or a part number anywhere, the closest thing I could find online was an "oil cooler pipe" for a 1996 Jimmy which from what I can tell looks like the part I need. The only one I find anywhere is Dorman p/n 625103 or similar from differn't manufacturers.
    Can any one point me in the right direction?
  • Hey guys,

    I'm pasting my posts from another forum so I can share them with you. There are two posts. LONG ONES but well worth the readings.

    POST #1
    ==========================================================
    I've got a good challenge for you if you're up for it and see if you can help me figure out the root case of my problem without causing me to drain my bank account. If you do have the answer, I would be forever grateful and will show my appreciation accordingly.

    I have been sitting here looking through another forum and this forum and am no closer to finding my answer. I decided to stop trying to second guess and chase down a problem in the dark and draining my bank account.

    I've noticed a lot of people had similar problems to mine but no true solution.

    I have a '96 4x4 4-doors BLAZER with CSFI and Eng Code W, of course 4.3L Vortec, what else would it be???

    I've decided to stop wasting time pouring through the forums with no answers in sight. I probably could spend a whole week and not find any answer. I mean, I figured that's what this forum is for, to seek help. Plus I figured that since it's a 1996 truck and now this is Year 2005, I would think that in those 9 years that has passed, SOMEBODY would have the answer which is why I'm here. I'd really appreciate the answer because I want to get my truck fixed ASAP so I can get through this winter season.

    Here's the symptoms I'm currently experiencing:

    1) hard to start if I turned the key and hold it but if I turned the keyquickly in like three short bursts then it starts up fine.
    2) random erratic idle
    3) sometimes don't accelerate smoothly from stop and had to mess with the gas pedal to get it going.
    4) sometimes misfire at 55mph
    5) service engine lights on sometimes it goes away
    6) got the misfire P0300 code (multi-cylinders)
    7) Cyl 2 and 3 are misfiring very high
    8) excess gas smell (possibly running rich due to #2 and #3 misfiring and possibly running lean, causing other four cylinders to run rich)
    9) also got Fuel Trim codes Bank 1 and Bank 2 which I think are P0171 and P0172.

    Here's the list of parts that I've replaced but no success in solving the problem. In fact, they are the common parts being replaced by other Blazer owners while trying to track down the root cause without success. I'm trying to go through process of elimination to further narrow down to the root cause.

    Coolant Temperature Sensor
    Throttle Position Sensor
    Ignition Coil
    Spark Plugs
    Spark Plug Wires
    Rotor
    Cap
    Camshaft Sensor
    Fuel Pressure Regulator (my old one was faulty cuz the diagphram ring around was ripped, like a blown speaker).

    My problem is exact the same as DANNK's problem but the postings has stopped back in Feb 2005 and I was hoping that he found a solution so I'm not sure what's up with that.

    He replaced the following items which didn't solve his problem:

    Replaced fuel filter (6 months ago) - seperate issue
    Replaced fuel pump (5.5 months ago) - seperate issue
    replaced plugs and wires (3 months ago)
    replaced distributor cap and rotor (2.5 months ago)
    replaced ignition coil pack (2 months ago)
    replaced ENTIRE fuel injection system (2 weeks ago) ($350!!!) (not easy)

    My fuel pressure is within spec.
    Key on, 60 psi pressure held steady
    Engine running approx 56 psi. pressure held steady when idling.
    Fuel pressure held steady after shutdown.
    Therefore, that rules out fuel filter.

    Seafoam cleaner does nothing for me. It was recommended by my mechanic but he's full of sh*t.

    Any suggestions? It got to be ONE SINGLE PART that is causing all of this. I'm at a dead-end. Thought I would replace fuel injectors but after reading the forums, it doesn't seem that it's the problem. And plus I haven't see any solutions anywhere. Nobody seems to really have any solutions.

    I've seen that EGR replacement has fixed it but I've also seen that it was only temporary and problem came back.

    I've seen Crankshaft Sensor replacement has solved the problem but not always.

    Gas stations is not relevant since it has nothing to do with gas in my case. I've been using 87 octane which is what the manual recommended anyway.

    What about the Catalytic Converter being bad? Any way I can tell if it's bad or not?

    It could be MAP sensor, it could be MAF sensor, it could be Idle Air Valve assembly, it could be Top Dead Center sensor located on tranny's bellhousing. Hell there's too many possibilities and I don't want to waste money on those if it turns out NOT to be the culprit.

    My hunch is telling me that it's probably more likely a combination of three things, maybe four........ Crankshaft Sensor, EGR valve, Catalytic Converter (due to bad fuel regulator which is replaced), and MAP sensor. Hell if I know.

    That's why I need your help. I'm hoping that there is actually someone out there WITH THE SAME PROBLEM as mine and have FIGURED OUT THE ANSWER to the problem would respond to me so I can get over with my ordeal.

    I don't want any second guessing or whatsoever, if you KNOW FOR SURE that you got the answer, please do share with me. If you are not SURE then I'm willing to listen to your suggestion because I'm at my wit's end.

    Thank you very much.

    POST #2
    ==========================================================
    Here's my latest update on my '96 Blazer problem.

    Folks.....please forgive me if this is rather long message but I want this to be informative and share my experience as well as my perspective and opinions. However, I really appreciate all of your comments that you have provided to me. Thank you for taking the time to do that.

    I felt it would be unfair to those who may join this forum or continue to experience same problem as mine by not sharing my experience with everyone.

    I'm not saying that the way I fixed my problem will work for everyone. But at least I I think I would probably be safe to say at least try this approach first as the best starting point instead of wasting your money on those other unnecessary parts like everyone and I did when you might want to try the ones I've done first before trying the rest of the parts.

    I just want to spare everyone the financial and emotional heartaches that I had to suffer and others before me as well and to spare those from getting ripped off by dishonest mechanics. There are such honest mechanics out there and a big salute go to them for conducting honest business.

    If someone disagree with me with anything I said below or wish to add additional information, I welcome your reply. I'd like this to be educational for other unfortunate vehicle owners with same situation since the Big Three are so incredibly unreliable in help their customers out. I'd like for this to be the first stop before blowing all kind of money on various parts that I mentioned in my first post.

    One last thing..... for those who are new to this and are experiencing same problem.....please read my first post above.

    Here we go..
  • Have you tried AutoZone.com website? I looked it up for my '96 Blazer by going to Shopping link, put in the word "cooler" and found an item that said "COOLER LINE - ENGINE OIL", clicked on it and got the part list.

    DORMAN COOLER TUBE part# 625-100 3 MO warranty for $25.99.

    From what I've read, there seems to be a common problem with the crimping area going bad. I've seen recommendation to replace with a regular hose and clamps. I've had some experience with other certain crimped hoses coming apart at the crimp area in my other cars and I just cut the hose near the crimp, used Dremel with cutting wheel to cut the aluminum pipe to remove the crimped part off and just slided the hose on the pipe and put clamp on it and it worked for me. That's my poor man's method. You might want to flare the pipe a bit and remove any burrings before reattaching the hose. The flare will provide a better seal inside the host to prevent any leakage. Good luck!!!

    --Ralph
  • few2few2 Posts: 2
    Thanks for the help lowrider. That seems to be the part I need but I need it for a 1995 Jimmy, in which I can't find it listed anywhere for a 95. It's almost like it doesn't exist. I'm tempted to get the part listed for a 96 and see if it works on my truck.
    Or I may try what you suggested, but the way I feel about it I may as well buy a new part if I'm going to be laying under my truck in 20 degree weather. If it were warmer out that would be another story.
  • I have a 1996 SLE Jimmy 4x4. When I turn the wheel to the right, I get this strange noise from the right front wheel area. I don't even have to turn the wheel but a 1/4 inch off of center and I hear this sound like rubbing tires. There is nothing the tire touches at any point of the turn, but that's what it sounds like. It's not a grinding like a Cv Joint. I know some about vehicles, I've had 12 and I'm only 27, but this is a mystery and I've only had this truck a week. Any ideas?
  • 4WD don't turn well at all...not designed for that.they will do fine on road curves just fine, but if you're in a parking lot moving around, you're screwed. the joints won't move that far. Plus, make sure you don't use 4WD on dry pavement..it will wear it out a lot quicker. If you have push button, turn it on 2HI in low speed, sharper turn areas ( i.e.: parking lots, drive thrus, etc. )
  • I did a search and found many comments about broken seat recliner levers, but couldn't find recommended solutions. I have the same problem. I looked on eBay and found a lot of replacement handles for sale for the Jimmy. The sellers claim these are perfect for fixing the well-known defect in these handles (brittle metal). Anyone ever try one of these cheap fixes? How did it work, if at all? Seems like a much cheaper alternative than having the dealer replace the entire seat mechanism, if it works.
  • Hello! This summer, my left front axle snapped while I was driving - cost almost $1,200 to repair. Now, the right front axle is hard to turn - trying to get it repaired before it snaps. Please inform me what the cost to repair this should be- ball park. And is there anyone near Roswell/Alpharetta GA that you would recommend? Thanks!
  • Could it be the wheel bearing? I had to replace mine last year, and the symptoms sounds the same.
  • is it normal to hear a clunk when shifting from 2 to 4 hi and back
  • what is the normal price to replace a fuel pump in a 95 jimmy think i got taken
  • No. The 4wd doesn't have wheel bearings, but cv joints. the boots are in great shape, the tires are new and balanced and is aligned. It even makes the rubbing type of sound if i go from the left lane to the right lane. never seen..or heard anything like it before.
  • My truck won't start after just ging through that major ice storm 48 hrs ago. It cranks over and the engine gives that little jerk like it normally does when it starts except it's not starting. Also, after cranking it i smell gasoline. I thought maybe my gas lines were frozen but then I wouldn't smell gas. So, I assume something is wet. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

    Andy :(
  • Hmm. That's strange that you say there are no wheel bearings. I have a '98 Jimmy SLS, 4wd, and it definitely had its front right wheel bearing replaced.

    Here's a link to what you might need:
    AutoZone link to front wheel bearing/hub assembly
  • Just meant that they wee not the exact same thing. 2wd and 4wd have different components on the front. bearing are fine. thanks for the heads up though. pulled it ALL off today...everything checks out, even though i did replace the rotor. Noise is still present. guy at the shop said it may be the steering gear box. $230 for that. i'm going to do some more checking though. between that and cv joints, i hope the problem doesn't cost a lot.
  • I don't have a Blazer, but I've had a couple cars with bad plug wires that wouldn't start after it rained. If that's the case, you would smell gas after it got flooded.

    Good Luck,

    Matt
  • I'm looking to trade in my crappy 2000 Windstar on a 2000 Blazer. It's a 4dr, LT package, loaded, 71k miles. What problems should I look for? The dealer said he just replaced the module in the transfer case at $600. I just spent $1600 to have the trans rebuilt in my Windstar and can't afford another lemon. The vehicle looks immaculate, but looks can always be deceiving, especially from a dealer. Any advice is greatly appreciated.
    Thanks,
    Matt
  • You can get the replacement handles at AutoZone for $25 in the Help section. I haven't got one yet, but they look like a good design.

    Matt
  • Change your ignition switch wiring in the steering column
  • If you "can't afford another lemon" you should run as fast as possible from any and all Blazers. Not to mention safety concerns.

    :lemon:
  • Does anyone know How to wire the electronic speedometer for a 91 Blazer. There are two wires on the sending unit and four on the speedometer. Thanx, dagarnold
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    The 2 wires from the VSS go to the Digital Ratio Adapter Controller. The DRAC converts the A.C. input from the VSS to a digital signal which is sent to the speedo, cruise control module, and ECM. It's in the right lower corner of this diagram:

    http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d8012b28f.gif
  • ckk4ckk4 Posts: 13
    Hello All;
    OK, I've got the codes for my 97 Blazer, but I need advice on what to do/how to fix. Thanks - Dave
    P0146 O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 1 Sensor 3)
    P0304 Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected

    Part numbers & location of parts would be helpful as well. Thanks again.
  • I have plenty power coming through but the engine won't crank over. Anyone have any advice. Last time this happen it had something to do with the car not being in Park. Is there any key turning sequence to reset the car to thinking it is in park. It will not start from neutral either?
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