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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

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  • demexdemex Posts: 2
    I have a 1985 V6 chevy S10 Blazer. it has the 2.8L engine, and it is an automatic, as well as four wheel drive.

    At random it will begin to slowly loose power as you drive it. This usually happens when you vary how hard you press on the gas pedal, for reasons such as when you go up a hill, or ease off the gas when you come up to a slower vehical. This problem gets to the point where you loose all power and pushing on the gas pedal does nothing. While driving, putting the pedal to the foor, it will only gear down and rev really high. Putting it in neutral, and putting the pedal to the floor will only rev it up to about 2000rpm and stay there. From a start it will go from 0-30kph (0-18mph) in about 5min! then when it at random, it will get all power back, and floor it as if everything was normal. It usually does this when you have to go somewhere, like school in the morning, or going home tired. it will do this off and on without warning. time/season does not matter. it doesn't do this in regular intervuls, so, its not every day. some times it will go for days, some its every day.

    This engine was just rebuilt, and i've put 5 different carbeurators on in (used). The fuel pump, distributer, spark plugs/wires, fuel filter, exhaust and a few extras were either replaced, checked, redone. There is not catalytic converter on the tuck aswell. i've checked, and there is no pick up screen in the tank, so that can't be clogged, plus how full the tank is, doesn't matter.

    If anyone has any idea what could be wrong with this vehical and causing it to do this, please tell me. i've been working on this truck for months, and 3 different experienced mechanics could not figure it out and i am fed up. I would Highly Appreciate all feedback.
  • newfynewfy Posts: 12
    Howdy,I suspect the MAF sensor may also be called the IAT sensor(intake air sensor).I have the Haynes repair manual no. 24071 and the only place i can find reference to the MAF is in the error code section.do you use the same book and am i missing something?thanks in advance.
  • I have a 1990 chevy blazer that is having (has been having...) some really bizarre electrical problems. It started with what i thought was a bad install of an aftermarket alarm system that was making the radio be on constant scan in FM mode and the cigarette lighter was making the dome lite go on... I disconnected the box to the alarm, re wired the stereo and those went away.
    Then, I noticed the oil pressure gauge was bouncing up and down as if it had a loose wire... i found none. The interesting part was that when it was showing good pressure, the truck ran fine. When the gauge dropped to almost zero, the truck started to run horribly. I knew that the oil pressure itself was not really low because of the way the gauge bounced back and forth like it wasn't connected well... but why would the truck think it was supposed to run bad just cuz the gauge said so? Even more bizarre... if the gas tank is running close to empty, and the oil pressure gauge drops low again, the truck will start to stall at idle and the "check gauges" light will come on. Anyone know what might cause this?

    I now have an even greater problem,unfortunately, because now the truck just won't even turn over. Started with it not reacting to turning the key in the ignition and had the starter tested. Was told it was bad and put in a new one. I worked for all of about a minute! Took it back to Autozone and they said I had gotten a faulty one. Got yet another one which worked for about 2 days! The other problem with the check gauges light and the oil pressure gauge continued. Two days later the original problem with the key turning and having nothing happen had returned intermittently. Usually it only took 3 or 4 tries and it worked again... as if the battery had been re connected! a few days later and the truck stalled again from the low oil pressure right in the middle of the street and has not started again since. I'm stuck! I was told the computer needed to be replaced but I don't know if that is really it... Does the computer have something to do with ALL of the weirdness going on with my truck? Please... somebody tell me they've seen this before and know what i need to do! Thanks!
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    I have that Haynes too and for 98up it is pretty poor but the next one is Helm at $100 so...
    No, the MAF is not the same as the IAT but in the intake next to it. It is right next to the air filter housing and is the round metal 2-3" thick piece with an electrical connector plugged in - remove the hose clamp from the intake box and you will see the MAF mounting in the middle of the metal in a honeycomb structure. Clean it with electrical contact cleaner or brake cleaner to fix poor performance - it feeds air flow data to the computer and if dirty can lean out the fuel.
  • Thanks repairdog,
    I got it fixed, it was the fuel pump. Does anyone know if there is a forum here to sell parts on? I had just put a sending unit into my 2000 Jimmy about 4 months ago, and figured id take it off the old pump and see if anyone needs one for a fraction of the cost of a new one.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    This goes way back but that 2.8 was known for having vapor lock. Have you checked the fuel pressure at the carb also? Line from the tank up and no leaks/air sucking in instead of fuel? There are several sensors feeding the ignition module also but sorry I only have the 4.3 motors.
    Lots of info out there on it.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Check the ignition switch assembly (key/tumbler)cause everything feeds thru it. Battery terminals all clean, the positive cable to the starter good, the negitive cable good, and make sure the grounds are all good. After that I would look at the ignition module in the distributor - easy to replace and can cause stalling but that doesn't explain the starter issue.
  • newfynewfy Posts: 12
    hey,repairdog, i finally found a picture of the maf in Chiltons bok no. 28624 for gm full size trucks 88 to 98 but this book is also published by haynes. so,i suppose i have to take the hoses off and spray the 3 wires inside which look like heating elements? there are also window like openings on the outside,should they be sprayed too?
    by the way,i'm chatting from St.John's. newfoundland and labrador,Canada.
    regards
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    Does anyone know if there is a forum here to sell parts on?

    No, we are not set up for buying and selling in the forums.

    tidester, host
    imageDrive on over to my place!
  • The Olds Bravada is mostly identical to Chevy Blazer so I wonder if anyone can help with a heater problem in my 2000 Bravada. I love the car but this problem is getting me ready to sell it. The heater is designed so I set a temperature and it tries to maintain that temperature, but it either blasts hot or cold. I would much rather an old fashioned system where I just have slider to adjust the temperature that comes out of the vents. Does anyone know a solution?

    Thanks!
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Actual sensor is in the middle of that honeycomb so spray that and good to go. Keep warm, I'm in Florida!
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    I have the same in the LT Blazer and if its climate control with the marked temps on it you can overcome it by setting the fan to the speed you want, the temp to any setting you want, select where you want the air to go, but never use the AUTO positions on the right or left controls cause they will constantly change and drive you crazy! To shut off the outside air flow select recirc (in cab pic) on lower left or select outside pic for fresh air. If you want cooler than outside turn the AC on. That works. The system uses an electric blend motor on the AC/Heater box to maintain the auto temp and if that fails about $700 to replace and the system constantly switches hot to cold searching - all Chevy dealers can easily find and fit this - bring $$ - try above first hopefully cures it.
  • monascomonasco Posts: 1
    My Blazer will be going down the highway and all of a sudden die and is losing power at 60mph when i pull over let it sit for about 15 min it starts right up for about 3blocks then do the same again i can put fuel injector cleaner in the tank and it stops for a couple of weeks the fuel pump ,air filter, and fuel filter has already been replaced and fixen to replace the fuel regulator but cant find where it is does anyone know what is causing this problem and how to fix it and where the regulator is located at
  • demexdemex Posts: 2
    Thanks repairdog. thats something i havn't attempted yet. i didn't know that the 85 had several sensors.. i do know that the 2.8L has had many problems... like if you over-rev it, you throw the main almost instantly, and the oil pump is faulty and the list goes on... if anyone thinks of more to add please reply.

    hey.. a little off topic.. how good are those 4.3L engines? and i heard that a 5.7L can bolt right in place of one, and meet up with the tranny too, cuz its the same block minus 2 cylinders.
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 40,560
    St. John's? I loved my visit up there via the Trans Labrador Highway in Aug. '99. Not sure I'm ready for a visit this time of the season. ;-)

    Is everyone using a block heater most days there right now?

    Steve, Host

    Moderator
    Need help navigating? stever@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    The press reg is under the plastic upper intake cover on the spider injector end and you can check the pressure on the fuel rail before you do this- should be approx 60 lbs. That reg may leak and flow/over richen the engine but I would have a mechcanic look at it first cause stalling could be caused by many other things, ie pump heats up and quits, sensors, wires, dirty cap, plugs, etc. Must be some codes with the SES light ON so what were they?
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    1. Well, 4.3 is great but the intake manifold gaskets all leak by 100k thanks in part to orange Dex Cool. 5 years/100k is for fools - change that every 2-3 years and replace the cap with an after market and keep the overful full to hot mark when cold - air in a Dex Cool system clogs heater cores too.
    2. 5.7 will have space and weight problems so much work needed to change - many articles on that out there.
  • sumsbratsumsbrat Posts: 2
    I HAVE A 97 CHEVY BLAZER THAT WAS RUNNING FINE TIL RECENTLY.NOW WHEN I TRY TO DRIVE IT SHE DONT WANT TO SHIFT OUT OF FIRST GEAR .IS IT THE TRANNY OR SOMETHING ELSE?PLEASE HELP. THANKS
    FROM SUMSBRAT OF GARDENA,CA.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Maual trans could be linkage or clutch.
    Automatic could be many things - hope you have been changing the fluid and filter (Chevy says 20K miles) but at least every 50k and you are in CA with hot stop and go. Check the dipstick in the rear of the engine compartment that says trans on it - fluid should be to the correct line and red, not brown and should not spell burnt. Most transmission shops give a free checkout. Oh, see if you have reverse, if this is gone too you probably broke the sun shell in the trans (no rev, 2nd, 4th).
  • sumsbratsumsbrat Posts: 2
    REPAIRDOG,I ALWAYS KEEP MY FLUIDS FULL,& IM NOT A DUMB BLONDE.I HAVE REVERSE & I CAN MANUALLY SHIFT INTO SECOND GEAR WHICH LETS ME GO AT LEAST 40 MPH,I THINK MAYBE IT CAN BE A TRANNY CYLANOID OR MAYBE THE FORWARD CLUTCH PACK,A TECH 2 DIAGNOSTIC SHOULD BE ABLE TO FIGURE IT OUT, WHAT DO YOU THINK?
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    Welcome aboard!

    I do recommend that you turn off your CAPS LOCK. People tend to ignore postings typed in ALL CAPS because they are hard to read.

    tidester, host
    imageDrive on over to my place!
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 872
    Sounds like you lost voltage to the transmission, the most likely cause is the ignition switch, not the key one.
    Kill the caps.
  • newfynewfy Posts: 12
    Couple of ?'s for repair dog. Haynes book specs lists spark plug AC41-948 gap 0.060,owners manual lists AC41-932 gap 0.045,emition control info label lists AC41-932 gap 0.060. I know we should follow the info label,but here could be a reason for poor gas mpg.I wonder what would happed if I readjusted the gap to .045 for a few test runs.AC41-932 are installed now at .060,I just finished cleaning the MAF.
    For Steve,if you visited St.John's you would have had to travel the trans canada highway and take the ferry at North Sydney NS to Port aux Basque,NL and drive to St.John's which would be a little over 500 miles,but a beautiful trip through 500 miles of Moose country.
    Being retired I am not so much in a hurry anymore so I normally plug my Jimmy in for about 2 hours before I go anywhere when its -5*C (23*F).but I will assume that our neighbors in Labrador do daily plug in. They average around -10*C (14*F) to-30*C (-22*F),but it is beautiful this time of year for sking and snowmobiling.It's worth the trip.
    regards
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 40,560
    My notes are a bit fuzzy but we drove overland to Goose Bay/Happy Valley and took the ferry to Lewisport - we like the remote drives. :-)

    Steve, Host

    Moderator
    Need help navigating? stever@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Looks like the correct plugs for the vehicle and looked up and 0.60 was correct - the samaller gap would decrease the spark and would lower mileage even more (bigger gap hotter spark) assuming your plug and coil wires are good. Did you ever say if it is running smoothly or roughly? Water in the gas/lines effects mileage - sure you deal with this. Gas mixures change about 4 times a year too varying the smaller starting with larger mileage molecules.
    Any of the gear train (4wd) locked on and causing the drag? You might want to get it to a dealer (heated shop) and let them take a look and on an analyzer to save yourself alot of searching.
  • newfynewfy Posts: 12
    Right you are Steve,you took the long scenic route to get here. Did you return the same route?If yes then you missed some lovely country from Lewisport to Port aux Basque,Nova Scotia and New Brunswick.But none the less I'm sure it was a holiday to remember.
    Tom
  • newfynewfy Posts: 12
    No,no drag.no water in gas,(I am going to change Cap,rotot,plugs and wires to be on safe side)seems to run smooth.I just finished having all a complete brake job and a new actuator put in for FWD.everything works fine.after the cap/rotor/plug/wire job it will be going to the dealer for a complete analysis.
    Never been to Florida,maybe some day (I hope)
    Tom
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 40,560
    Cruised around for a month and took the Smallwood to NS. Great trip. I may have to post some pics on my imagealbum.

    Even better, you could set up your own album and post some pics of your Jimmy in the wind and snow. :shades:

    Steve, Host

    Moderator
    Need help navigating? stever@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • fixitmanfixitman Posts: 2
    Aimie My 2000 Jimmy also has the eratic fuel gage. After some troubleshooting, the problem has been isolated to the wiring harness between the fuel sender and the computer. There is a ground on the lead from the sender (the sender is not grounded on the 2000). I also have a problem with the four wheel drive. It is locked in 4x4 now. The problem started as a Service 4 Wheel Drive light after engaging 4 wheel drive. I suspect there is a common thread between all the electrical problems on Jimmy's. Has anybody seen any recalls on wiring harness problems?
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Did the fuel gauge get fixed and how?
    As for the 4wd many problems can cause the locked on condition as your searches have found. My 01 locked and I released it by disconnecting the vac when running to the switch on the firewall (hear the release) - check all vac lines from the intake manifold to the left fender mounted reservior can, that switch on the firewall, then down the right side to the front axle actuator located under the battery tray. There is a sensor on the right axle that verifies the axle is coupled that sticks too. Then some have a cut wire to the xfer case motor or encoder. Then there is the computer/TCCM that gets all the signals. It can freeze like a windows PC so disconnect power from battery to clear (30 min I read) and many had this replaced - expensive. Wish mine had the old floor mounted lever!!
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