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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair



  • demexdemex Posts: 2
    I have a 1985 V6 chevy S10 Blazer. it has the 2.8L engine, and it is an automatic, as well as four wheel drive.

    At random it will begin to slowly loose power as you drive it. This usually happens when you vary how hard you press on the gas pedal, for reasons such as when you go up a hill, or ease off the gas when you come up to a slower vehical. This problem gets to the point where you loose all power and pushing on the gas pedal does nothing. While driving, putting the pedal to the foor, it will only gear down and rev really high. Putting it in neutral, and putting the pedal to the floor will only rev it up to about 2000rpm and stay there. From a start it will go from 0-30kph (0-18mph) in about 5min! then when it at random, it will get all power back, and floor it as if everything was normal. It usually does this when you have to go somewhere, like school in the morning, or going home tired. it will do this off and on without warning. time/season does not matter. it doesn't do this in regular intervuls, so, its not every day. some times it will go for days, some its every day.

    This engine was just rebuilt, and i've put 5 different carbeurators on in (used). The fuel pump, distributer, spark plugs/wires, fuel filter, exhaust and a few extras were either replaced, checked, redone. There is not catalytic converter on the tuck aswell. i've checked, and there is no pick up screen in the tank, so that can't be clogged, plus how full the tank is, doesn't matter.

    If anyone has any idea what could be wrong with this vehical and causing it to do this, please tell me. i've been working on this truck for months, and 3 different experienced mechanics could not figure it out and i am fed up. I would Highly Appreciate all feedback.
  • newfynewfy Posts: 12
    Howdy,I suspect the MAF sensor may also be called the IAT sensor(intake air sensor).I have the Haynes repair manual no. 24071 and the only place i can find reference to the MAF is in the error code you use the same book and am i missing something?thanks in advance.
  • I have a 1990 chevy blazer that is having (has been having...) some really bizarre electrical problems. It started with what i thought was a bad install of an aftermarket alarm system that was making the radio be on constant scan in FM mode and the cigarette lighter was making the dome lite go on... I disconnected the box to the alarm, re wired the stereo and those went away.
    Then, I noticed the oil pressure gauge was bouncing up and down as if it had a loose wire... i found none. The interesting part was that when it was showing good pressure, the truck ran fine. When the gauge dropped to almost zero, the truck started to run horribly. I knew that the oil pressure itself was not really low because of the way the gauge bounced back and forth like it wasn't connected well... but why would the truck think it was supposed to run bad just cuz the gauge said so? Even more bizarre... if the gas tank is running close to empty, and the oil pressure gauge drops low again, the truck will start to stall at idle and the "check gauges" light will come on. Anyone know what might cause this?

    I now have an even greater problem,unfortunately, because now the truck just won't even turn over. Started with it not reacting to turning the key in the ignition and had the starter tested. Was told it was bad and put in a new one. I worked for all of about a minute! Took it back to Autozone and they said I had gotten a faulty one. Got yet another one which worked for about 2 days! The other problem with the check gauges light and the oil pressure gauge continued. Two days later the original problem with the key turning and having nothing happen had returned intermittently. Usually it only took 3 or 4 tries and it worked again... as if the battery had been re connected! a few days later and the truck stalled again from the low oil pressure right in the middle of the street and has not started again since. I'm stuck! I was told the computer needed to be replaced but I don't know if that is really it... Does the computer have something to do with ALL of the weirdness going on with my truck? Please... somebody tell me they've seen this before and know what i need to do! Thanks!
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    I have that Haynes too and for 98up it is pretty poor but the next one is Helm at $100 so...
    No, the MAF is not the same as the IAT but in the intake next to it. It is right next to the air filter housing and is the round metal 2-3" thick piece with an electrical connector plugged in - remove the hose clamp from the intake box and you will see the MAF mounting in the middle of the metal in a honeycomb structure. Clean it with electrical contact cleaner or brake cleaner to fix poor performance - it feeds air flow data to the computer and if dirty can lean out the fuel.
  • Thanks repairdog,
    I got it fixed, it was the fuel pump. Does anyone know if there is a forum here to sell parts on? I had just put a sending unit into my 2000 Jimmy about 4 months ago, and figured id take it off the old pump and see if anyone needs one for a fraction of the cost of a new one.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    This goes way back but that 2.8 was known for having vapor lock. Have you checked the fuel pressure at the carb also? Line from the tank up and no leaks/air sucking in instead of fuel? There are several sensors feeding the ignition module also but sorry I only have the 4.3 motors.
    Lots of info out there on it.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Check the ignition switch assembly (key/tumbler)cause everything feeds thru it. Battery terminals all clean, the positive cable to the starter good, the negitive cable good, and make sure the grounds are all good. After that I would look at the ignition module in the distributor - easy to replace and can cause stalling but that doesn't explain the starter issue.
  • newfynewfy Posts: 12
    hey,repairdog, i finally found a picture of the maf in Chiltons bok no. 28624 for gm full size trucks 88 to 98 but this book is also published by haynes. so,i suppose i have to take the hoses off and spray the 3 wires inside which look like heating elements? there are also window like openings on the outside,should they be sprayed too?
    by the way,i'm chatting from St.John's. newfoundland and labrador,Canada.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    Does anyone know if there is a forum here to sell parts on?

    No, we are not set up for buying and selling in the forums.

    tidester, host
    imageDrive on over to my place!
  • The Olds Bravada is mostly identical to Chevy Blazer so I wonder if anyone can help with a heater problem in my 2000 Bravada. I love the car but this problem is getting me ready to sell it. The heater is designed so I set a temperature and it tries to maintain that temperature, but it either blasts hot or cold. I would much rather an old fashioned system where I just have slider to adjust the temperature that comes out of the vents. Does anyone know a solution?

  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Actual sensor is in the middle of that honeycomb so spray that and good to go. Keep warm, I'm in Florida!
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    I have the same in the LT Blazer and if its climate control with the marked temps on it you can overcome it by setting the fan to the speed you want, the temp to any setting you want, select where you want the air to go, but never use the AUTO positions on the right or left controls cause they will constantly change and drive you crazy! To shut off the outside air flow select recirc (in cab pic) on lower left or select outside pic for fresh air. If you want cooler than outside turn the AC on. That works. The system uses an electric blend motor on the AC/Heater box to maintain the auto temp and if that fails about $700 to replace and the system constantly switches hot to cold searching - all Chevy dealers can easily find and fit this - bring $$ - try above first hopefully cures it.
  • monascomonasco Posts: 1
    My Blazer will be going down the highway and all of a sudden die and is losing power at 60mph when i pull over let it sit for about 15 min it starts right up for about 3blocks then do the same again i can put fuel injector cleaner in the tank and it stops for a couple of weeks the fuel pump ,air filter, and fuel filter has already been replaced and fixen to replace the fuel regulator but cant find where it is does anyone know what is causing this problem and how to fix it and where the regulator is located at
  • demexdemex Posts: 2
    Thanks repairdog. thats something i havn't attempted yet. i didn't know that the 85 had several sensors.. i do know that the 2.8L has had many problems... like if you over-rev it, you throw the main almost instantly, and the oil pump is faulty and the list goes on... if anyone thinks of more to add please reply.

    hey.. a little off topic.. how good are those 4.3L engines? and i heard that a 5.7L can bolt right in place of one, and meet up with the tranny too, cuz its the same block minus 2 cylinders.
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,968
    St. John's? I loved my visit up there via the Trans Labrador Highway in Aug. '99. Not sure I'm ready for a visit this time of the season. ;-)

    Is everyone using a block heater most days there right now?

    Steve, Host
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    The press reg is under the plastic upper intake cover on the spider injector end and you can check the pressure on the fuel rail before you do this- should be approx 60 lbs. That reg may leak and flow/over richen the engine but I would have a mechcanic look at it first cause stalling could be caused by many other things, ie pump heats up and quits, sensors, wires, dirty cap, plugs, etc. Must be some codes with the SES light ON so what were they?
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    1. Well, 4.3 is great but the intake manifold gaskets all leak by 100k thanks in part to orange Dex Cool. 5 years/100k is for fools - change that every 2-3 years and replace the cap with an after market and keep the overful full to hot mark when cold - air in a Dex Cool system clogs heater cores too.
    2. 5.7 will have space and weight problems so much work needed to change - many articles on that out there.
  • sumsbratsumsbrat Posts: 2
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Maual trans could be linkage or clutch.
    Automatic could be many things - hope you have been changing the fluid and filter (Chevy says 20K miles) but at least every 50k and you are in CA with hot stop and go. Check the dipstick in the rear of the engine compartment that says trans on it - fluid should be to the correct line and red, not brown and should not spell burnt. Most transmission shops give a free checkout. Oh, see if you have reverse, if this is gone too you probably broke the sun shell in the trans (no rev, 2nd, 4th).
  • sumsbratsumsbrat Posts: 2
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