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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    Check the connector at the tank, it has been such and issue that GM has a repair connector. Look for corrosion and burnt terminals.
  • twopolarbearstwopolarbears Member Posts: 2
    Repairdog (and anyone else),
    Thanks for the info on the the plug locations, and the oil weight.

    I also kinda figured the hubs, u-joints, etc... but I guess I was posing the question to see if this is a common thing, to narrow down my search based on what others have experienced.

    About the fuel gauge. I was curious as to what the others had found out. I've got one that's only erratic when empty, or close to empty, and last year, it started only lowering to half a tank... meaning, at empty, I'm at a half tank on the gauge. I've been using my odometer to measure the milage, and I just go get gas about every 250 miles.... but it looks like when it's full, the gauge reads full, when its empty, the gauge reads half... and the rate of decline is about half of what it should be. It's like there's some resistance (electronically speaking) in the wires, and the load on the sensor for the gauge to operate off of is different than it should be. I was going to just replace my fuel pump/sending unit (Roger on the one peice unit...) and go from there. I found a salvage yard that has one for 175 bucks, with less than 25k miles on it. New, those babies are about 350! Yikes!
    Later all...
    Thanks for any input anyone can give me on the hum...
  • southbluessouthblues Member Posts: 1
    The handle on the passenger side seat back adjustment also broke off, rather easily. But it wasn't the handle that failed. It was the metal piece that the handle attaches to that sheared in half. Dealer answer: Seat hinge assembly, $400 P&L. :cry:
  • efk4755efk4755 Member Posts: 4
    I recently had the same problem with my 98 Blazer. I found it to be the multi-control switch (turn signal-cruise, and wiper control assembly). Don't purchase it from a dealer-very expensive from them. I purchased from Auto Zone in my area for about $140. Not to difficult to replace. More aggrevation taking the old one off than putting new one on.
  • efk4755efk4755 Member Posts: 4
    Ironically, I was just looking on Ebay and found replacement handles that fit over the sheared pin. Check out item # 8046673749 in auto parts on Ebay. Kit includes 2 handles for $14.95 + shipping.
  • birtchbirtch Member Posts: 1
    First question my digital odometer will go off then come back on and is sometimes faded, no other electrical problems.

    Second, When i start the jimmy from rest after it has been sitting about 1 hour or more i here a few little "clonk" sounds coming from under me!!, i recently had the ball joints replaced at a local dealership could this be the problem or just that it is below zero and it may just be frozen a little, the sound stops short with in 5 second and happens just as i start moving. open upon start up.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Just the odometer or the entire dash goes out? Has the dash been taken out for a heater core? Sounds like the electrical connector. As for the clunk sound, is this a 4wd(torsion bars vs springs)?
  • tonnyxtonnyx Member Posts: 8
    I am having the same coolant problem on my '98 Jimmy. Air from the heater goes cool - hot - cool, etc. The engine tends to overheat, then the temperature suddenly plunges and then it'll run a little bit cold (~155 F), then normal (~180 F), then hot, all over the dial. However, these two phenomena don't seem to behave in direct correlation to each other (hot air or cold air may come out regardless of the current engine temperature).

    I suspect that I need a coolant flush. Or is there more to it? Input, anyone?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    sounds like a thermostat issue.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    While all the posts sound similar, often they have different causes such as:
    1. Temp swings on the gauge are probably the thermostat but if the coolant is dropping may be the intake manifold gasket leaking, a head gasket, or any combo of them.
    2.If you smell dex cool in the cab vents probably the heater core which often reseals itself due to small pin hole leaks but will have to be changed.
    3. If temp in cab vents swing hot cold could also be the heater core clogged and a flush will clear it and this often has a water slushing noise with it.
    4. If temp swings and you have Climate Control with the temps marked in degrees on the center dial, the electric blend motor may be bad.
    That's the biggies I think - hope that helps.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Possible ignition switch problem cause all power runs thru there.
  • tonnyxtonnyx Member Posts: 8
    Wow, thanks for the detailed reply, r'dog!
    My coolant isn't leaking, but it's probably clogged, and while I'm at it, it sounds like a thermostat replacement is in order, too.
  • newfynewfy Member Posts: 12
    Howdy again,my battery icon comes on when i press the accelerator. it stays on for a while then goes off,and back on again when i speed up. If I am using cruise it comes on whwen the speed increases.Dosen't seem to discgarge the battery,just annoying. Wassup? :mad:
  • grizzlyamosgrizzlyamos Member Posts: 1
    my electronic dash quit working on my 92 jimmmy i took it to get fixed they said it was burnt up so i got another one put it in didnt work took it back out put the old on back in drove it a couple day and it started working again for about 2 month last week it quit again does any one know what could cause it
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    You have a charging system fault, most probably alternator is going, battery , or corroded terminals/cables. If this is a 98 then you should have a volt gauge on the dash - is it showing about 14 (straight up) on the gauge cause that's the running charge voltage the alt should be putting out. If you have a volt or multimeter with the vehicle off the battery sould read about 12.6 volts and if less you may have that bad alt or lost a cell (6 of them at about 2.1 v per cell) so if 10.5 range you lost a cell. Check (take off) the side terminals and no corrosion should be present if not clean with baking soda/water (make sure the radio Loc (thats a Lock feature for stealing protection) is not on/enabled. Starter could be pulling a huge draw and then the battery is recovering but doubt this one. Always possible connections and cables failing.
    Simple solution go to any auto store for a free check of the charging/strating system and replace the correct item.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Circuit board shorts/opens/connections and there are many non dealer repair companies so send it off as I found below with a few keyboard strokes:
    1989-94 Jimmy/S-Series/Sonoma - Symptoms: Dark, Intermittent, Smoking, Burning Smell, Missing Sections, Odometer is Dark, Missing Segments or displays "Error". Repair Cost $159
    Lots of problems on those older units - but the newer 1st year Trailblazers also had their dashes go and a free replacement so...
  • impalacabimpalacab Member Posts: 11
    Hi. Got a problem with my 4wd on a Blazer S10 1998.
    When I hit the 4 HI button, the the motor activate the the transfer case and I can´t rotate the drive shaft by hand (which I can when it´s in 2 HI). But there´s no power to the front wheels, just rwd. Where´s the problem? Are the problem the transfer case, or something in the front axle, or...???
    If anyone knows something about this, please let me know.
    Thanks, Magnus, Sweden.
  • blazermomblazermom Member Posts: 3
    hi raftdart, I'm new to this forum because I have the same headlight problem and I'm searching for answers. I've replaced the relays in the glove box like you did, replaced the on & off switch so the next thing to try is the multi function switch that controls the dimmers , wipers etc.Please reply and let me know if you've resolved your problem and if you didn't maybe we can find an answer together. Thanks
  • erniepowererniepower Member Posts: 5
    Ok, here we go. I have 2000 Chevy blazer zr2 4.3l v6 2dr 4wd. I have been having problems and I am at wits end trying to fix them. The truck started hesitating and hiccuping on takeoff. I ran a scan tool and received no codes. I checked the fuel pressure and it seemed just a tad low. (58 psi) I replaced the fuel filter. No change. I then looked for leaks and noticed that the fuel filter was leaking around one of the seams. I replaced the fuel filter again. The truck seemed to run fine for 2 days. Then in the morning the truck would not start. I couldn’t hear the pump turn on, and eventually ran the battery dead trying to start it. I charged the battery replaced the fuel pump and tried everything again. It started and ran great for 2 days other than the gas gauge was wrong now. Then in the morning it wouldn’t start again. I checked for pressure in the lines and found that when I turned the key on the pressure would spike quickly to around 30 psi then drop quickly to 0. I checked for voltage at the relay and found 12 volts. I then bypassed the relay with a jumper wire to turn the pump on. The pump then turned on but the pressure wouldn’t get above 35 and it would oscillate up and down 3-4 psi right around 30 psi. And when I disconnected the power it would drop back down to 0. Next thing I did was disconnect the fuel line at the filter and attach my pressure gauge to the line at that point. I put a plug in after the pressure gauge to eliminate anything after the filter in the system. I then connected the jumper wire across the relay and got the exact same results. With the power on, if I pressed the release in the pressure gauge, I could hear the pump turn on and the fuel would pump out of the release hose. Next I went back and disconnected the ground for the pump cleaned it up and reconnected it. Still no change. I am out of ideas. I don’t think it is the pump as I just replaced it. Is there something else I should be checking. I was going to drop the tank again check things there, but when I tried to siphon the gas out there seems to be a safety strainer or something else near the tank, that won’t let me get a hose all the way into the tank. And of course now the tank is full of gas. Also what would cause the pressure drop after the voltage is released. I can’t find gas leak anywhere and isn’t there supposed to be a check valve somewhere that prevents the pressure from being released?
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Pressure should be 60-65 psi and there is a pressure regulator on the injection spider assembly under the plastic upper intake cover (the assembly under where the fuel rail plugs in. Low pressure on cold start will not let it fire up when it needs to be rich as you know. Never changed this myself yet but had the spider assembly off when I did the intake gasket. I,ve read about intermittant problems caused by the ignition switch - lots of heavy keys and junk hanging on it destroy the tumbler. How many miles on this 00? Also you might check the crank sensor on the front under the harmonic balancer or ignition module in the dist if the pressure is reading 60 and it won't start.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    That front drive shaft always is engaged and the transfer case only switches a gear for 4Lo. When you push 4Hi (or Lo or auto) the left (passenger side) CV axle is then coupled to the front differential via a vacuum actuated switch under the battery that pulls the cable to the axle coulper. So, you have a motor (encoder), a computer (transfer case control module-TCCM), switches, sensors, actuators and vac hoses that all must work and sent proper signal to the TCCM. On a 98 first look at the vac hoses from the intake to the reservior can on the drivers side for rot and then trace down to the actuator - most common. After that it gets harder to find/fix.
  • erniepowererniepower Member Posts: 5
    my question is this, I am not getting any pressure even when the regulator is out of the equation. I have a "T" that attached to the output of the fuel filter. The filter is on one side the gauge on the center and I plugged the other side. And I am bypassing the relay so the key has no effect on whether or not the pump is getting voltage. I have 65k on the truck. With this setup I am still only getting around 30 psi. It should be able to get much higher than that. It would be like clamping off the return hose from the regulator so that it can't release the pressure.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Interesting setup but if you T the line the regulator wil still control the pressure cause its a closed circuit with a supply and return. If you simply put the pressure gauge on the output of the filter then you would get full pressure from the pump but not sure how safe this is - 2 person test with fire suits! The fuel rail test port is the correct place to test this and this will give you the real operating pressure.
  • erniepowererniepower Member Posts: 5
    I found the problem. Quite by accident. I was using the fuel pump to empty the tank so I could lower the tank and check for correct voltage at the pump connection, and while I was doing that I was removing the skid plate and loosening the support rails. I slipped and the wrench hit the exhaust pipe. when this happened the pump revved up. I did it again and got the same result. I reconnected all the fuel lines and had my roommate try to start the truck while I held a wrench from the frame to the exhaust. The truck started up, pressure was fine and there were no problems. I removed the wrench and it died. Long story short, the ground from the battery to the frame needed to be replaced. Now it runs fine. Thanks for your help though.
  • jimmyowner1jimmyowner1 Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I have read a lot about Ball joint problems in this vehicle. I have just replaced the front ball joints because of a clunking noise on the right side of the front. Two different mechanics told me this was the problem. I still have the same noise in the same place. It is a loud and irritating noise. Does anyone have any ideas what the problem really is? I don't have the funds to keep trying any more. I really love the vehicle otherwise and have had no other problems. I have the diamond edition and would like to solve the problem rather that giving it up. Please help me. This is my first forum so have patience with me. Thanks.
  • nicanica Member Posts: 4
    Thank you for that information, it is helpful!! Could there be a chance that the noise could just go off by itself? Also My service engine soon light keeps coming on reading code 00446 which indicated that it needed new spark plugs so they were fixed but the service engine code still comes on reading the same code any suggestions?
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Doubt it but maybe - turn the radio up!
    The P0446 has nothing to do with spark plugs, the code means: "Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Control Circuit Malfunction" so it could be the gas cap or the canister up front or the vent above the gas tank that may be defective. Posted this answer a few weeks ago. For all readers these codes are easily found with a simple search and most auto stores do free code readouts and clears - if you get a code write down what it was and then have them clear it as a first free test cause it may not come back!
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    I'll remember this one - the switches in the doors have this same problem and the windows and locks quit till a ground is added to the door from the frame due to the crappy pins/bushings we all replaced at least once! Good find!
  • burnout3burnout3 Member Posts: 1
    I bought this 91 S-15 Jimmy and i can get it to start after sitting a day or two. After that it won't stay running it dies right after it starts. I've changed the plugs, plug wires, cap and rotor. Oh and fuel filter. I pulled the plug from the #4 and it was blacker than well you know. It looked liked it was in there for ever, A new plug looked like that. After that I checked the oil and it was 4-5 quarts over. I drained it and put new oil and filter on it. It still does not want to stay running or start up half the time. I looked at the end of the tail pip and it rusted away so under the right rear corner its black like it was in a fire. A ralitive said it might be the O2 sensor or the EGR valve. What is the problem.
  • mongo1mongo1 Member Posts: 49
    Hi Jimmyowner, Yes, ball joints are a problem on these vehicles. But a more prevalent problem is the wheel bearing hub. These are not like NORMAL wheel bearing set ups. They are a press fit into a separate hub and, depending who you talk to, go bad anywhere from 35,000 to 75000 miles. I just replaced my right front bearing assembly at 100,000 miles. Lucky I guess. My Jimmy is a 2000 4WD and was making a similar noise as you describe. To check, jack up the front end and spin each wheel. It should spin free with no noise. If you get a clicking sound, or the wheel does not spin freely at least one revolution, you probably will need to replace the hub. You can do it yourself, but if it has seized to the spindle, you are going to be in for the fight of your life. Avg. cost to have it replaced is about $400.00 per side. GOTTA LOVE THEM #$@%& GM ENGINEERS. :confuse: By the way, you need to check this out quick, it is dangerous to drive around if the bearing is bad. Hope this helps, good luck
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    There are now 2 little cone shaped washers the dealer sells that go on the hood hinge bolts that often fix this dealer part #12383460 about $5 each and easy to install. Try these before anything else! Easy test is to open hood and put small towels in the hood/fender gaps and close - if noise goes away thats wghere it came from.
    Then there are the brake caliper slides worn or needing grease, the sway bar mounts, the shocks, a-arm bushings, hubs as you were warned (but these are usually a grating sound and if you turn left putting most weight on the right front wheel it would be louder - opposite for the other side). There are also the the spring isolator pads (2wd) or torsion bars (4wd) that can clunk. Then on the 4wd also have the CV axles, front diff, and transfer case. As an added item if you have the 4 button Autotrac 4wd, the transfer case fluid has been a problem and is now blue dealer only item and the clutch packs in the transfer case can clunk. And finally, on my 99 4wd, after backing up and on speed bumps, after I checked all these and replaced many - still have the small clunk, so..... possible body or fender hardware problem. I am used to it.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    No way 4-5 qts over - if so those plugs are probably fouled out so replace again. Do you have any fuel pressure at the TBI (throttle body) cause sounds like starts and then stalls may be fuel pump. Rust in the tank? Which motor is this cause the 4.3 had fuel injection problems and leaking regulator all located under the plastic intake cover. 91 so do you even have a spark at the plugs? Need more info - could be coil, ignition module, etc and this baby ain't too new is it and wasn't taken care of it sounds - at all.
  • pete6266pete6266 Member Posts: 1
    Replaced water pump,thermostat,antifreeze.Only time I get heat is when temp control is fully clockwise.
  • zippo99zippo99 Member Posts: 1
    I have a pulsing/clunking noise when braking coming from my front right wheel on my 1999 Chevy Blazer 2-door 4wd V6. Normally I would assume that a pulsing means a "warped" rotor, however, I replaced the front two rotors and pads with no change. Then I thought that the guide pins/bushings might be allowing the caliper too much play to "jiggle around" so I replaced the bushings, no change. Then I noticed that the caliper was very rusted, but after changing the right front caliper, surprise, no change. I even tried removing the ABS fuse to no avail. I had the rotor checked to see if it was "true" and it is. The rotor I replaced on the front right side had a lot of glazing and pits on the inner side. Also, the tire has a good deal of wear on the inner tread but not on the outer. After an exhaustive search on the net and this thread, I think it might be either the control arm bushings or the wheel bearing or hub. This only happens when braking. When I go to step on the brake at around 35+mph, it pulses violently and quickly, and as it slows down, a clunking noise gets louder as the pulses get slower. Any suggestions?
  • impalacabimpalacab Member Posts: 11
    Hi, I´ve checked switches and sensors, they seems to be ok, and have power. I´ve checked the vacuum actuator, and it seems ok, pulls the wire real strong. I´ve raised the car and, but still no rotation on the front wheels. Since the the vacuum actuator works and pull the wire, should the problem be in the front differential?? I don´t have an exploded view over the front differential. How do the wire activate the differential? Is it possible to fix at home? Is it fixable without taking it away from the car? Could I download an exploded view over the front differential from somewhere? Etc? Have a nice day.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Did you flush the heater core? Most Blazers lose this at some point and GM knows that the Blazer line is the most prone to Dex Cool core clogs due to air getting in the cooling system. So, to flush, my method (opinion, not GMs) is to remove the ends of the heater hoses at the engine side (follow the 5/8 and 3/4 hoses from the firewall) and unclamp them, then using a garden hose simple hold the hose end on one hose and let the water run out the other. (don't get the dist all wet so cover with a plastic trash bag if you make a mess like me) Why this way - a chemical flush always takes the core out within a short time (pin hole leaks start) and you will smell the Dex cool in the air vents - not very good for you and Dealer charges about $600 to replace - dash has to come out. This limits the water pressure too so you don't blow the core yourself.
    Hope you did a good flush before the new WP, cleaned the reservior out, and changed to an after market cap. Keep the reservior at the Hot level when the Blazer is Cold to ensure no air in the system - and speaking of air - is the temp OK now cause air in the system causes temp swings so watch that - may have to bleed the system.
    Next, is this a Climate Conrol Blazer (temps on center dial) cause the electronic blend motors fail and the control head can too big $$ so search earlier posts.
    Another thing is rent (free) at an auto store a cooling system pressure tester and pump the system up and see if it does not leak - another possible area.
    Let us know what else you need or the fix for others.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Did you check all 4 discs? Rears can sound/feel like fronts. Rears need turning with the fronts and the single piston calipers are junk so get rebuilts on a brake job. To check the hub jack the Blazer up and support under the lower a-arm so the CV axle can freely turn - you will feel and hear the grating if its bad - really bad can clunk but did you do the lower ball joints yet - #1 Blazer clunk area and you can't usually feel any movement with the front jacked up. Most alignment shops can test these and then alignmnet should help the wear - run at 35 psi and rotate regularly on Blazers. The idler arm can allow wear on Blazers too - frame to tie rod arm and you can see/feel movement with a side to side tire hand wiggle (all have alittle I mean see/feel the arm flex up) -again the shop.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Yes, there are diagrams on some online parts stores but I am not allowed to give you the links per this sites rules. After looking at the first post, what makes you think the 4wd was not working - will the selector on the dash engage and the light go solid on 4Hi and then 4Lo? Means alot to resolve. On that front axle coupler the cable pulls a gear to connect that passenger side right axle - seen posts of the gear sheared/worn bit again more indications?
  • taiu476taiu476 Member Posts: 2
    Can anyone tell me where all (3) O2 sensors are located on my 2001 blazer? I know where 1 on the air intake is located but I have no clue about the rest of them. Also, does anyone have any ideas on what could be causing vibrations at about 65 mph? I dont think it is suspension or tires, etc. Are CV joints a possibility? What about all this talk about ball joints going bad on Blazers? Well, I am very new to this posting of questions, but I will thank all of you in advance for any responses I get.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    That one on the air intake is an air temp sensor, not O2, and the other is the MAF. Look on the exhaust for all the O2 sensors - see them 3" long screwed into it. 1 on each side right below the exhaust manifolds and the other behind the cat converter. The SES light will come on if they go bad normally, so has mileage dropped or what? As to ball joints and vibrations, search the forum for many recent posts on them, in fact scroll up a few pages and many are there.
  • impalacabimpalacab Member Posts: 11
    The selector on the dash turns to solid light on both 4Hi and 4Lo. When I have the car raised and engine running and put in gear in 2Hi, the rear drive shaft rotate and the rear wheels turning. When I put in a gear in 4Hi or 4Lo, the front and rear drive shaft rotates, but only the rear wheels spin... There are no visable damage anywhere on the front differential, axle, tubes and so. The vacuum activator pulls the wire, and I can pull the wire by hand when I disconnect it from the activator (but it´s hard to move).
  • taiu476taiu476 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks repairdog, for the info. Yes the service engine light has come on and I have lost a lot of gas mileage. Could O2 sensors be responsible for running slightly rough too? Is there any way of testing o2 sensors or do you just go ahead and replace em any way? I have almost 90,000 miles on Blazer so is it a good idea to go ahead and replace em? Also, I am planning a tunep. planning on new spark plugs, New K and N filter element (Old one hopelessly dirty), and replace o2 sensors. Is there anything else anyone can think of that would be a good idea to check into? Thanks repairdog and all else who reply.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    First go to the auto store and get the codes read out to tell you if one is bad. If that air filter is that dirty a new one may be the fix, plus your MAF sensor is now probably really dirty so spray it with MAF cleaner (or electriacl contact or brake cleaner) and that may fix mileage too. The K&N works great but don't over oil it or it sucks onto the MAF sensor. Plugs (platinum) and a new cap/rotor, PCV, fuel filter (every 30K min)and check the plug wire resistance and be careful and rotate the ends before pulling off the plugs or you will be buying wires!
    Hope you flushed that Dex cool by now and got a new cap too - many posts on that issue. Don't forget the trans (and xfer case if 4wd)fluid change.
  • repairman1repairman1 Member Posts: 2
    Have 92 S10 Blazer V-6 4X4-It was hit on side and totaled. I found a 92 donor without eng or trans w/ good body. I have already removed eng from one wrecked. The wiring harness on donor has been cut in eng compartment. Looking at eng. compartment and to the left and below A/C you have A wire harness that enters the vehicle. How do I go about removing that harness? I am also going to pull ECM.
    Thanks for any help. :confuse:
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Mine are 98up 2nd gen Blazers but most of the harnesses come thru a firewall grommet and the plug end (ends) is behind the dash or kick panel - not much help here. Hope someone replys with help but keep searching. Seems like mostly newer Blazers on this forum. Splicing may be risky cause thats a high moisture/heat area with AC and wheel well splash.
  • jimmy94jimmy94 Member Posts: 6
    vortec 4.3 in a 94 blazer has no power
    it takes me several miles to get the thing up to 55 mph
    and it does not go over 65 mph
    rpms and temperature are good, so is compression and fuel pressure
    the engine sucks down the gas because i have to keep the pedel on the floor when on the highway
    the trany seems to be shifting ok, overdrive, locking torque, and is in 2wd
    i also checked timing and spark
    i am guessing TPS or maybe something wrong with the cpi and the popet nozzles
    if any ideas please let me know
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    That actuator pulls a gear to couple the right pass axle so from what you say I would suspect that is the area to examine. When that axle is coupled and the front drive shaft is turning you should have at least one axle/wheel turning thru the front diff -if that was bad then you would have grinding. Its a 98 so 3 button 4wd I assume (not Autotrac or 4 button cause that is not engaged until wheel slippage sensed via the ABS sensors if selected and the transfer case has clutches in it).
  • james2006james2006 Member Posts: 6
    hey can anyone help me on this i am trying to figure out how u replace the front side turn and parking lights. i throught i could get to it by takeing the battery out but there is still no room to reach it . is there an easier way of doing this . ? thanks
  • blazermomblazermom Member Posts: 3
    Hi all! I own a 96 blazer with a miraculous amount of miles on it and it's been a good vehicle but my DRL's flicker when the lo beams are on, and when I use my turn signals. It doesn't do it when the hi's are on. It also doesn't do it when only the DRL's are on in the daytime.The relay also clicks to match the flickering which is alot like a strobe light. I've replaced the relays,bulbs,on/off switch and checked the wiring.Could it be the multi function switch that controls the dimmers, wipers, etc.?Please help! I actually have people pull off the road for me because they think there is an emergency lol.
  • impalacabimpalacab Member Posts: 11
    Yes, it´s a 3 button 4wd. And there´s no abnormal sounds at any speeds, no humming, grinding or anything. I suppose there´s some kind of fork or something like that, that´s pulled by the wire and couple the right axle? I think next step for me would be to drain the front diff and open it to have a look inside.
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