Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
1) check the oil pressure... it should be no less then 275kpa at idel 600 - 800 rpm.
2) check the belt tentener. if its sitting on a angle or if you can move it with your hand then its bad. also try poping the hood when its running and rev the engine up and then let go while looking at the belt tentener see if there is any thing hitting (the inner to outer housing hitting each other).
if you the first to things dont show anything up... then while the engine is running check and making the clicking noices use a long screw drive as a prob and touch different areas of the motor all over and listen through the screw driver to try to pin point the soure of the noise.
as for the clicking blinker... mostlily the switch! mine dose the same way.. will be fixing that soon!
As for your rebuild, don't forget to look at the oil cooler lines (crimps leak)and then the secondary air injection system (on exhaust manifolds are 2 check valves and hoses, then under the radiator is the electric air pump and vac switch) cause these pick up water and DTC P0410 code shows - if you get an exhaust noise feel the 2 hoses for burn thru - extend the air pickup hose on the pass side of radiator 2' and put it in the area between the battery and coolant reservior so it won't suck water in. Both my 99 and 01 have had problems. Also change that transfer case fluid and if Autotrac (4 button) use the GM only syn fluid thats blue (2qts)- will help the life of it.
1) disconnect the wires from the wiper motor.
2) remove the black cover off the motor ( 2 or 3 screws)
3) remove the circit board from the wiper motor
Now look at the circit board for any signs of a circit pealing off or burnt out.
Look at the connection block where the wire harnass plugs into. Usall the soider joints go bad there as well as a 1cm or 1/4" of a very small circuit not far from the connector block on the bottom...
now to fix the circit problem:
1) use your finger nail to peal or scrap off the bad area of the circuit.
2) get a small peice of spaker wire and jumper the bad area of the ciruit and soider it.
3) re-soider the connection block even if it looks good and check all other soider joints.
Re-install the board, replace the cover and plug the wire connection back in. Now try your wipers.
I had done this to mine, now the wipers stop where they should, they work at all speeds and not problems for over 60,000kms I live in canada and get lots of rain and snow so the wipers are well used!
save your self money and fix the board that you have or have a friend fix it for you and it will alast forever! well almost but longer then a stock replacment will!
thanks.
TIA,
Jon
Jon
Does anyone have a solution or have experienced this problem.
I have cleaned/ replaced EGR valve. Replaced all 6 plugs in the vortex 6 cylinder engine (must admit one of them on the drivers side middle was quite the chore!@) Stills backfires, runs like !@$)#, :mad: and gets about 8 miles to the gallon when I can keep it running! I am at the end of my frustration level. last backfire blew out the rearend of my new muffler. anyone wants to email help stoman82@yahoo.com Need this thing to work so I can work.
Here's info I pulled for you on how to check:
You can remove the IMTV (Intake Manifold Tuning Valve) from intake manifold. Once the IMTV unit is removed, visually inspect the inside of intake manifold. The manifold and injector unit should be very carboned up and dirty. Any clean areas indicate a fuel leak internal to the manifold plenum. Most times this is caused by the fuel pressure regulator leaking fuel from vent hole in the regulator body. Other factors may be present (such as a cracked inlet fuel line) but usually the regulator unit has failed. If no leak is detected through the IMTV hole, but a faulty unit is still suspected then you must pull the upper plenum to get a full view of the inside of the intake.
If the assembly is bad then it must be replaced. A bad leak will dump so much fuel that it will get into the oil and cause engine damage. It is recommended that the CPI and Nut kit be replaced at the same time.
I have a 1998 Chevy Blazer. The Idle is fine, the acceleration is fine.
But when you get it up to a steady speed it Misfires.
I have changed spark plugs, and plug wires. Replaced the fuel filter.
Ran injector cleaner time and time again.
I don't know what else to do. Can you PLEASE help me?
thank's
John
"It appears that the secret to getting the EGR valve to relearn the closed position is to reset the trouble codes with the valve disconnected and immediately turn the key off so it doesn't have time to set the "EGR Circuit" code. Then connect the valve and turn the key back on and PRESTO!"
That P0404 is related to EGR position and the relearn should fix that also. Post how it goes.
Also my ABS light is continually on - could you provide insight as to why?
I will like to know possible issues and solutions so I sort of know what I am talking about when I take it in -- any advice is very much appreciated.
Thanks.
As to ABS light you have a sensor in each front hub (98up) and one on the trans (2wd) or transfer case (4wd) that are required to work - so if the light is on get the ABS codes read out (special scanner) and that should tell you why.
unrelated - had rear end rebuilt about 3 months ago due to a failed pinion bearing. (It in turn munched the whole diff.) $1640 - a rip off? new gears, carrier, shafts, bearings, seals but old axle housing... now rear brakes surge. Could they have failed to clean the rotors after working near them?
Also if you look back up and search the posts GM has small hood cone washers because the hood shifts and clunks. Try those first then I have many others to look at.
Rear brakes surge - assume you mean pulse/grab when the brakes are applied. Are you sure its the rears and not the fronts, and if so the rear calipers are single piston lightweight with a special plastic piston and on geting new pads should be replaced with rebuilts due to sticking internally often occurs after the piston is pushed back in. Rotors can only be turned once on most and are the main cause of the pulsing as they get hot - the calipers slides need to be greased too a thing lots forget and they bind and can eat the rotors and cause this too. Bottom line is the rears need to be taken apart and examined and repairs made accordingly to correct. To do it yourself is loaded calipers with pads $55 eacd x 2 and rotors $35 each x 2 so under $200. If you destroyed the rear end you could have effected those brakes.
Rear ends are expensive to rebuild totally as yours was. I would have gotten a used at the junk yard and put in for under $400 - but I do most of my own and have tools and jacks. You can look up the parts prices online and see.
You never said 2wd or 4wd and mileage, but the 2wd zerk tells if ball joint bad and the 4wd requires loading to see (old pull top and bottom of wheel only works in extremely bad joints) - many posts on 4wd lowers being bad and high speed vibration and the clunk are tell tale signs.