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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • mclowemclowe Member Posts: 8
    First off, thanks for all the help from this forum. It has saved me much money from mechanics. I've got a 1990 s10 Blazer with 4.3L TBI engine. It has had a bad transmission and thus has been not running for about a year. Just got the trans. rebuilt and back in. Now, transmission works. Had to change the fuel pump/filter just before this to get it started so both are less than a month old. Took to emissions-failed. Did tune up including oil/filter, air filter, spark plugs/wires, PCV valve and oxygen sensor. Passed emissions with no problem.

    Now, it hesitates severely on acceleration. It does OK if you very slowly accelerate. Also, once it overcomes the hesitation it takes off and has no more problems until you slow down again. The hesitation occasionally produces what sounds like a quiet backfire. Hesitation is much worse when the car is warm. It doesn't really hesitate at all when it is cold. (Runs quite well until it warms up after a few minutes.)

    I've had a couple of thoughts. EGR valve or throttle position sensor? Any other thoughts about what this could be and how to proceed. Also, the Chiltons has a flow diagram to test the EGR valve. When I apply a vacuum to the EGR solenoid it does not move the EGR (also does not hold a vacuum). Next step was to ground the diagnostic test terminal, but no indication as to which terminal this is on the EGR solenoid. Anyone know?

    Thanks for your help.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    EGR port gets clogged so unbolt it and clean it first. Any codes or SES light on.
  • mclowemclowe Member Posts: 8
    Sorry, forgot to mention, no codes. I only get the 1-2 code (diag mode entered.)
  • mclowemclowe Member Posts: 8
    Update: Tested the EGR today, seems to work properly. Cleaned out the ports for the EGR-had some build up, but clearing this did not fix hesitation. Checked Throttle position sensor-has good voltage change and seems to be working well.

    Any other thoughts on things to check? Thanks.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Is this 2wd? Check the vac lines and see if all connected and not rotted. Was the cap a Delco - seen bad aftermarket Wells caps/rotors which are sold at Autozone and Carquest. Any fuel smell would point to leaking CPI and lines (nut kit) under the intake.
  • bigbear3bigbear3 Member Posts: 2
    I recently traded for this Blazer. Obviously, no owners manual. Does anybody know how to reset the drivers side power seat from moving into a different position when I unlock the vehicle? This vehicle also has a AM/FM/CD/AUX for the radio. Where can you plug in the AUX(for my MP3 player)? Is it on the back, if so will the theftlock lock it up if I partially remove the radio? I don't have the code and I don't know how to reset the code. Had the dealer reset it on my last vehicle. Appreciate any help.
  • mclowemclowe Member Posts: 8
    It's a 2wd. Vacuum lines all intact. I'll have to check the rotor/cap. I didn't replace them when I changed the wires. There's no definite fuel smell, but the exhaust has a faint fuel smell to it, a little more noticeable than I'm used to.
  • moniraemonirae Member Posts: 1
    This is my first time on this site-I'm hoping someone can help me. The rear hatch on my 2004 Blazer rattles and seems to leak a little bit when it rains. I was told there is a way I can adjust the hatch myself. Is that right?
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    If this is a CPI system (not TBI with the 2 spray nozzles in the top of the throttle body or carb) then look that up and it tells how to check that for leaks - common.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Check the top pins and weather stripping then the striker on the base has 2 torx headed bolts that do adjust. You will need the correct size torx head socket cause those are tight and a screw driver style will not do it. Sure its the hatch and not another quality part back or under there? Check that the jack inside and the spare are secure.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Put seat where you want then press SET and then #1 or #2 and then within 5 seconds the UNLOCK button on remote - chime will sound you are done. Can set eack remote to a diff seat position that way. If you want a manual ebay has them and remotes - match the remote code ptinted on it for correct one.
    That CD AUX switches between CD and then the radio FM-AM when a CD is in thats all. No MP3 connection so you need to buy the cheapo transmitter that goes on MP3 and tune FM to it.
  • mojo23mojo23 Member Posts: 4
    to reset the seat, just set it to where you want it, then push the, set, #1, set, and it should be good to go. not sure about the radio as I took my radio out, shortly after I got my truck and put my sony in
  • suvivr4suvivr4 Member Posts: 2
    Hello,

    My 2001 4x4 Blazer has been blowing cold air. I've replaced the already fine thermostat, and have checked the coolant and levels are fine. still making the kids wear ski pants and toques in the truck though. lol. Can someone tell me whether it would benificial to have the coolant flushed? I'm going home to check the heater dials, the heater doors and the hoses coming off the heater core (if I can find it). Any other suggestions would be so greatly appreciated.

    Signed: Cold in Canada
  • rafike32rafike32 Member Posts: 4
    I have an odd issue and was wondering if anyone has run across this, my tail lights on one side are not working, the break lights on that side however work fine. I wish I could find a Wiring diagram to see how that circuit works however I haven't had any success. It is a 2000 Chevy Blazer 4X4, has had the Recalled switch replaced (the one that made the breaklights not work). Any thoughts or guidence to where I can find a wiring diagram would be helpful. If I can't get that then maybe someone can tell me what fuse box controls the Tail light operation and if the two sides (not the top) are different circuits and if/where they split off? And as for the obvious question, Yes I tried replacing the bulbs already :)
  • rafike32rafike32 Member Posts: 4
    I actually had this happen to me, when it did happen it was because the Coolant had turned to sludge and plugged the Heater Core. So if you have not had the system flushed (as it says the fluid is good to 100,000 or 120,000) then most likely that could be the issue.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Depends on if the core is clogged - if you have never done it or had a full coolant flush/replacement that's the first step. Is the fan clutch working - after start up the noise drops off and doesn't sound like a jet taking off? Does the temp gage shows running temp around 195 after warm up? Dex cool lasts a max of 3 years so forget the GM promise of 5/100 or 5/150 cause their warranty was 3/36 - got us all on that one! Finally, have you checked that the cap is holding pressure - just buy a Stant and put it on - GM cap was junk and clogged. Hope that warms you up cause I remember -35 when my fan clutch froze and so did I in Canada one winter - love FL now!
  • gbagsgbags Member Posts: 2
    We have a 2001 Chevy Blazer that has begun an intermittent rough starting problem. When the problem ocurrs, the engine starts immediately as always but the idle is rough and if you try to move in reverse or drive the engine stalls. To make the vehicle move you have to give it a lot of gas pedal and hold the pedal down. If you let up on gas pedal, the vehicle stalls and completely shuts down. It seems to do this until the engine has been running for 10 to 15 minutes and then all is OK. This strange problem only happens once every 2 weeks or so at all other times the vechile starts and moves properly.

    Any ideas?
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Could be many things, so check:
    1. fuel pressure
    2. cap/rotor/plugs/wires
    3. other electrical such as coil
    4. sensors
    5. filters gas and air
  • pspiesmanpspiesman Member Posts: 6
    Hey Repairdog,
    I've been having a similar problem - no heat from only the defroster though. My blazer is a 2001 with about 82k on it and the coolant has never been flushed. The vents seem to put out heat (although its not super warm air, its definitely warmer than what comes out of the defroster). Do you think its the same problem or could it be something else? Also, if I do get the cooling system flushed, does that automatically flush the heater core as well(if that indeed is the problem) ?

    Thanks.
    PS
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Could be and yes flush that out and put a new thermostat and Stant cap on. Sometimesa chemical flush will actually create a leak in the core or the crap gets in the water pump seals and that goes. The 4.3s have a weak lower intake gasket that most find leaking by 100k. I separately use two 3 foot sections of heater hose 5/8 and 3/4" to do the core with a garden hose and hold it to them with my hand to limit pressure and do in both directions till runs freely and clean. With too much Dex cool in the system a voltage diff of a few tenths volts can occur in the fliud and eats the core and radiator especially if the grounds are bad.
  • mclowemclowe Member Posts: 8
    So here's the latest. I changed the rotor and cap (both needed it) and the fuel filter again. Then, the blazer failed to start at all. I found that it had a bad ignition coil. After changing this it fired right up and now seems not to hesitate (although I haven't really given it a solid test drive yet.)

    Would an ignition coil in the process of failing cause a hesitation on acceleration (especially around 20-30mph when accelerating at any speed more than a crawl)? Or... is it likely that I'll still be dealing with the hesitation issue in the future?

    Thanks for all the help.
  • pspiesmanpspiesman Member Posts: 6
    I started by flushing the heater core per your suggestion and it fixed the problem. It was easy and the heat works great now. I will probably still follow through with your suggestion of flushing the whole system and replacing the the cap as well. I was surprised however how little "sludge" came out. There was just a little browish-pink water then it ran clean. It definitely fixed the problem though.

    Thanks Repairdog!!
  • sarge10sarge10 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Blazer in the shop right now and it has been there for a week. The tech does not seem to be able to find the problem. It will run fine then it will stall. The engine does not hesitate before it stalls or give any indication that it is about to stall. I stalls both when idling, and when driving down the street. After it stalls it starts right back up as if nothing was wrong. The engine light does not stay on. I have changed the fuel pump, fuel filter, spark plug wires, had the injectors cleaned. The tech claims that everything checks normal on the diagnostic machine but then the engine stalls. He is not getting any codes. Any ideas?
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    This at a GM dealer - if not might want to do that. Could be many things as easy as a defective cap/rotor if an aftermarket one - change with a Delco to rule out. Assume coil was tested and with a scan tool all sensors can be looked at. Possible crank sensor failing but dealer can pinpoint.
  • mswillia1mswillia1 Member Posts: 3
    I am also having this problem. When ever I turn the heat to go to the floor it blows out the windshield defrost. All other settings work fine. Please help!
  • cfreelandcfreeland Member Posts: 2
    hi can anyone help me i have a 1986 s10 blazer 4wd 2.8lt
    and i just put a fuel pump and a fuel line filter in it and when i start it up after i get about 2 miles down the road it stops and when i go to mash the gas pedal it wont do anything the engine wont even rev and then it will eventually cut off and about a hour later u can crank it back up and it will do the same thing does anyone now what it could be
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Possible choke cutting off air, sensor, coil heating up. That baby is 20 years old.
  • suvivr4suvivr4 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for all the great help. I had the system flushed (decided against the 50/50 chance of all those leaks from a chemical flush) and its blowing more heat than I can stand.

    THANKS AGAIN and HAPPY HOLIDAYS.

    signed: Now warm in Canada.
  • rollerking420rollerking420 Member Posts: 1
    hey i have a 1994 GMC Jimmy and i replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, spark plugs, and spark plug wires and now its not getting fuel to the engine the pump works and i got 60psi of fuel and the check velve but car still won't start and it has spark but still won't start what could it be please i have to get this car fixed A.S.A.P is it the CPI, ECM, what? :sick: :confuse: :mad: :cry:
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Cap and rotor next. Wires in right firing order? CPI you smell gas.
  • scout6scout6 Member Posts: 1
    i have a leak in the oil cooling line that runs to the oil filter (guess it runs to the oil filter because its right besied the oil filter...this is going by what the mechanic told me) and i was wonder how i would go about fixing the leak and how difficult it is to fix/replace the line?? thanks!
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    All the factory lines leak at the crimps. Do it soon cause if it suddenly blows all oil will be pumped out and engine will freeze up. Dorman makes replacements sold at most auto stores ands under $50. If a 2wd theres only 1 set and if the filter is on the engine thats your case so a simple job but at the radiator end there are spring C clips that hold the lines in. Remove or slide the round plastic quarter sized retainer back off the lines where they go into the radiator, remove the C clip, pull lines out of radiator. Need to remove the air filter black plastic housing to get to them.
    For the 4wds have 2 sets of lines and a remote oil filter and the engine side lines require lifting the engine up one inch and are a pain to reach.
  • maasy13maasy13 Member Posts: 6
    Hey thanks for the information repairdog. I just opened up the valve to the air injection pump and there was a ton of water that came out. I then ran the hose out the fender and now the light only comes on once in a while! thanks!
  • chevyhater1chevyhater1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 blazer with a new battery and starter. When I went to start it today; the fuel gage moved to the extreme left and then nothing. The dash board is dead, no power at all. Dome lights don’t work. Battery has a full charge. There is no security system other than the system in the stereo.
    Any suggestions other than a sledge hammer?
  • newfynewfy Member Posts: 12
    Hi rd,just sent a msg to GM about the poor gas mileage and signal clicking behind the glove box. also told them that i have been informed that (98) jimmy and blazer are known for both problems.
    They say they are unaware of any problems which i have mentioned.i wonder if its also going to snow in Florida.
    how can i fwd GM's reply msg to you.
    Tom ;)
  • daylyndaylyn Member Posts: 12
    I posted on another thread, but wanted to try here as well.
    I have a '97 Jimmy. I had the tranny rebuilt 23k ago. I had no problems until driving on the highway a few days ago. Check engine light came on, went off, and I lost power. After that, could not go more than 50K, and the truck was over revvving up to 4500K. Got home, and tranny was really low on fluid, and smelled a little burnt.
    Took the truck to dealer, says the computer code reads "misfiring cylinder". Dealer says that I "should replace transmission". Does this sound at all related to a misfiring cylinder? Seems odd that there were no "faults" in the tranny, but Dealer thinks it should be replaced, and what about the misfire? I'm confused and I feel like I'm being hosed. Another mechanic friend says this could be a torque converted lock up, and to replace tranny filter, flush tranny, do oil change, and drive it.
    Any opinions or advice would be greatly appreciated.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Probably the check valves on the exhaust are stuck open and then the 2 vac actuators maybe bad - then if the pump was full it may also be failing internally or have some crude in it.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Would point o bad starter install on the main power cable or the hot lead to the starter from the ignition key switch - look under and check (disconnect the battery cables first and this also allows you to make sure they are good (terminals too).
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    3/36 warranty so do not waste your time and energy. Flasher switch is probably bad and then mileage could drop from many things - cap/rotor/plugs/wires/sensors so #1 is claen the MAF sensor in the air intake and make sure the engine temp is running at 195 (thermostat).
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    97 so first install the known defective ignition switch which is actually the connector and harness in the column then see if any problems and post the codes that you can get read out at Advance or AutoZone. Yes a trans filter every 50,000 miles is best and may help but most rebuilds do not replace all the shiht solenoids or converter lockup solenoid and then 4L60E has a TCC that can stick.
  • daylyndaylyn Member Posts: 12
    Thanks so much for your reply. I've had that "known defective ignition switch" replaced three times. Each time, it came up on the computer as faulty. This time the only code we're getting is 0300 - multiple engine misfire. New Cap & rotor should fix that. I just don't understand what the has to do with the tranny. Except for what you said about not all rebuilt tranny's have replaced parts. Should I just have another rebuilt put in - or do you think there may be a way of finding out what the real problem is before I go that far? Would there not be a fault code for the tranny if that was really the problem? Maybe the computer in the truck is not working?
  • mrcrazywolfmrcrazywolf Member Posts: 1
    '94 S-10 Blazer Tahoe CPI won't start once it gets around the freezing mark. It starts fine if it's plugged in (Northern Canada:). Added 2 cups Methyl Hydrate & ran 40 miles, still no difference. If I pour in some fuel, it runs on that, then dies. If it doesn't get warmed up first it hesitates on acceleration like no fuel (engine will die if I keep my foot into it.) I've replaced plugs, cap, rotor, wires, & fuel pump & fuel filter. (No fuel smell around intake) I've also checked wiring connections looking for a bent pin or??
    Dave :confuse:
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    If the switch is dealer installed it should be free after the first one or I'd change dealers. P0300 can be many things and cap/rotor is only one. Vac leak leaning it out, plug wires or plugs, cam sensor, coil low voltage, injectors, stuck valves, etc and I fought one in mine that was an intermittant crank sensor and no code flipped but my timing was off so valve rattle at full throttle - good luck.

    Any good trans shop can hook up their analyzer up and oinpoint the trans problem.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Sounds like engine does not know its cold so not in start mode or rich. Check injectors and temp sensor, as well as EGR stuck open.
  • gbagsgbags Member Posts: 2
    We have a 2001 Chevy Blazer that does something that seems odd. When you turn the ignition off all the dials on the Instrument Panel Cluster (IPC) start to fall to a zero reading but after 10 to 15 seconds some of the IPC dials (oil pressure, voltage, temperature) rise back up; the oil pressure settles to ablut 40 psi, for example. This happens whether you open a door or not to kill the power to the radio, etc.

    Is this action standard operating procedure for the 2001 Blazer? Is this a problem that should be fixed?

    Thanks
  • wuddarushwuddarush Member Posts: 3
    I had the same problem, mine would work for about 5 minutes then just stop half way. Very annoying and dangerous. I ordered the new circuit board from www.1aautomotive.com I found them on ebay and they sell the replacement board for the wipers. It was very easy to take off and reinstall. Probably about five minutes. Everything is up front by the windshield. When i pulled my old one out it was coverd in grease and if i would have thought to just clean off the two long contacts that stick up from the board and wipe out all the grease in the housing it probably would of fixed the problem but I went ahead and installed the new one and it works great. At first i thought it was a little screwy because when i turned my wipers to off they still will run for about three more strokes then they shut off. I guess its just the way the new board is setup. Anyhow im just thankful that they work again. HOpe this helps anyone else that is having wiper blade issuses. They part was only 25 bux and it was easy to do it yourself. The only thing you need is a star style screwdriver, i forget the name but you will what i mean when you look at the type of screw it takes. There were only 3 to take out.
  • daylyndaylyn Member Posts: 12
    Thanks very much! I guess it's off to the tranny shop for me.
    I did replace cap & rotor and got rid of the 0300 fault. Am having the catalitic converter taken care of tomorrow. I'll make sure to post what I come up with.

    Thanks again!
  • jennibjennib Member Posts: 1
    Just purchased a '95 4dr LT 4wd w/125,000 miles as a temporary vehicle while the deer is being removed from my 1500 z71. I have a couple questions. First, from reading these msgs, it is clear the blazers get poor mpg, but 10-12??, Is there anything I can do to improve to at least 17 or 18? Also, the service engine light went on and I didn't get the code, yet, but am curious if its related. Otherwise its runs great! .......except, why does the buzzer keep going when the key is out of the ignition and all the lights are off? :confuse:
  • duckmanjwduckmanjw Member Posts: 2
    did you ever determine what the problem was?
  • duckmanjwduckmanjw Member Posts: 2
    ust had transmission rebuilt about 3000 mi ago, it will act up after about 20 min driving it feels like TCC is disengaging and ingaging at a rapid pace, you can actually see the tach jumping about a 100 RPM.
    Transmission shop checked it out and said it had an engine miss, and maybe it was
    the cap and rotor, I changed that, but no help, I am now going to replace the coil and ignition module mounted on intake, fortunately I have an extra one, so I will see if that cures it.

    anybody got an idea, you think Im going in the right direction?

    It seems strange that you can only feel the miss when it is in lockup between 42-54 MPH, I respect the Tran shops diagnosis, I dont think he is giving me runaround, if the coil dont fix it , then I will change the plugs, it has 52000 mi. on it.
    Thanks in advance for any help. Henry
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