Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

repairdog · January 2007

Lines are additional usually and called a nut kit for some reason that eludes me. As for the 4wd if its 3 button np233 case (tag on transfer case) then it could be many things such as vac line leak, 3 port vac switch on case, front vac actuator, sensor on axle, encoder motor on case that activates the 3 port and front drive shaft, or the TCCM or 4wd computer.

blaze98boy · January 2007

havr had that same problem but my heater core was the problem it would clog found that by cutting the end of a water hose and plug it in to the passenger side entry tube on fire wall for the heat core it should blow out anything cause it to not flow or slow the flow of the coolant

auto9999 · January 2007

My 2000 Blazer 4 door 4WD Trailblazer trim 62,500 original miles has its hood latch release lever not working. I can pull the lever and the wire is still attached and I see the wire being pulled, but the hood does not open. How can I fix this?

repairdog · February 2007

Pull the lever and with a flat side of your fist rap the hood above the release (not so hard you dent it) and it should pop open - then spray that latch above the grill with white lithum grease so it operates.

tenpinarm · February 2007

I'm sorry I took so long to get back to you. I unplugged the TCCM and the car is accelerating fine. I've tried cleaning the plug connections on the TCCM and harness but I still don't get any lights on the dash shift buttons, so I guess the problem is the board or the wiring.Because the 4wd has started working on its own twice now I'm thinking it's a wiring problem(maybe a ground)? The service engine soon display is now off.

torid · February 2007

have 95 S 10 : replaced fuel pump/ filter/fuel pressure sencior / air valves checked lines ..bleaded lines still no fuel to start..can pour gas in and will start till it runs out..now I am not a Mech..I am reading most of how to do on line due to not much funds to work with..single Mom and all..I was told there is a shut off switch for this now some where? That could have been the problem from the start? can some one tell me? If so where I can not find one in the book or on line?

auto9999 · February 2007

Hi Repairdog,
Your instructions worked perfectly. Thank you as always.

larenz71 · February 2007

I have a strong engine in my blazer that claps.i have replaced vacuum hoses,spark plugs and cables. problems occur with loss of power which i found that some plug cables were not correct. been told to checkk distributer. what else must i look into. Like i said engine is strong does have high miles(140,000)

repairdog · February 2007

Do you mean misfires or backfires? Timing is #1 to check so need a timing light and set to spec which means loosen the dist holddown and turn to set - assumes wires connected in right order. Need more info if not what you meant. Only 20+ years old.

doubting1 · February 2007

I have a 2000 GMC Jimmy 4.3L 4WD with the Tow/Haul switch on selector and was wondering if it could tow a boat that weighs 3000 lbs?
I have towed a smaller boat and I am concerned if it could handle a larger load through the hills from N Carolina to New York. Does the Tow/Haul switch realy make a difference
or is it just for towing at your local marina?
Is there anything I should be aware of so I don't burn up a tranny? Thank You...

mom1dad · February 2007

I have a 91 Jimmy 4.3l 4wd. It has no crank and the headlights don't work. All other lights work. Where do I start. Battery is good.

repairdog · February 2007

Specs are listed in the owners manual based on hitch type. The switch alters trans shift points. For extended towing need to add a trans cooler that mounts in front of the radiator, change the fluid and filter every 30k miles are when it smells burnt, and as for the weak point its the sun shell that is a weak piece and goes when a large load or shock and the neck breaks and lost rev/2/4 - been there.
Bog boat big truck - never tow antthing heavier than the tow vehicle. You may have to go thru the brake system also and add high heat pads like cermanics to stop it.

repairdog · February 2007

Battery cables and ground OK, relays, fuses (ECM bat, ECM ign, Eng 1), starter OK (give it a wack with a hammer and see if it then starts), and finally are you sure that battery is really good and fully charged?

skippybob · February 2007

My 98 Blazer headlights quit. Marker and turn lights all work.
I tried to ground the circuit at the lights, one light came on and the other 3 came on but dim (highbeams too) Highbeam indicator on dash doesn't come on. Where is the ground for the headlight circuit? I had no probs with this vehicle until 130,000 miles, now it's constant elec. problems. Thanks.

repairdog · February 2007

All runs thru that light switch on the left side dash - try rotating the DRL switch to force/turn the lights on. Those dash switches do fail. Have to take the dash bezel off to get to it - 1 screw above the steering column and some under the bottom column trim, then pops out but do not break the hazard switch button off as you pull the bezel out.

cairns · February 2007

:confuse: Yes I agree this is od as I can not find the source either. I have a 1996 4 x 4 Jimmy with 269,000 miles and it started the churping bird thing on accelleration a few days ago. It will go into the shop tomorrow and I will let you know.

girafferrt · February 2007

I have a new battery, had the alternator checked, belts are relatively new, starter doesn't show that it is failing, fuel pump is working. Had new plugs, wiring harness, rotor, and distributor cap put in about 4 months ago, new water pump about 6 months ago, the fuel pump was put in about 18 months ago, and a new fuel filter(within the past week). When I turn the key the starter engages but engine does not turn over. If I can get it to start it runs fine. I just ran some fuel system cleaner through it to with the last tank of gas. Any suggestions as to what could be wrong

repairdog · February 2007

Sounds like the starter is trash - the bearings are really bushings and the whole assembly drops internally as it wears. When it happens hit the starter with a 3 lb hammer and if she starts thats it. Also look at the primary ignition wire from the key and see if the little nut is tight on the starter. Local alternator/starter/gen shops do only that and usually are very helpful.

bklynblazer02 · February 2007

Hello. This is my first post as a question. The board is great I have gotten lots of info off of it already. Just could not find the below question asked after looking for about a week here and there.

I have a 2002 Blazer LT 4wd 78k miles. The truck is awesome and love to drive it.
When I drive at high speeds I hear air noise in the cabin. It seems the drivers side window is not sealing correctly. The passenger side is fine are the other 4. I was wondering if there is anything I can do to end this. Not a huge problem but still would like to know. Also if I buy those Thule Wind Rain guards for the truck which I like. Do they cut back on this wind noise?

I did a search on the board for a previous post but could not find any.

Maybe my problem is not really a problem. Lol.

Hope to hear from you guys soon.

Thanks in advance.

BklynBlazer02 :shades:

cairns · February 2007

They say it is the Catalytic Converter, may be, as my friends who have a 95 and a 97 both say that was the problemo. I will get it changed and see if that is the deal.

Mr_Shiftright · February 2007

You could try this experiment---take a dollar bill and place it anywhere along the weatherstripping for the door, then close the door. If you can pull the dollar bill out, your weatherstripping is probably not keeping wind noise out at that point. You may have to test various spots along the door opening. I think door seal noise is more likely than window seal noise.

bklynblazer02 · February 2007

Thanks for the reply.
I will try that. But I feel the air coming in the window. And when I push the window out it stops it a little of makes the air come in more.
Is there anything I can do?
Should I try cleaning the seal?

Mr_Shiftright · February 2007

well good you are experimenting...excellent. Sometimes you can re-adjust the window from inside the door...well the dealer can I mean.....I suppose as an experiment only you could put a little piece of black electrical tape along the window edge and then run it up and see if that helps.

Sure clean the seal out, why not.

Worst case scenario is a new window seal. Maybe you can shine a light in there and see if the seal is distorted or torn.

bklynblazer02 · February 2007

Thanks for the reply. Gonna clean it and apply a little tape on the edge before buying a new seal.
Do you think those rain wind guards that get attached to the door would cut down on the wind noise?
Thanks for your response.

girafferrt · February 2007

Thanks, once my son gets home from school I guess we will try that. I think with Chilton's and the two of us maybe we could do a starter replacement if that is it. Anything to save me from having to take it to a shop because they certainly see all women as not knowing anything. The one I go to isn't bad but the more I know going in the less likely they are to try and get me to do things I might not need to do.

Mr_Shiftright · February 2007

Well those rain guards are supposed to cut down wind *turbulence*, yes, but if you look at them, you wonder how much they can really accomplish at 60 mph... and who's to say they might not create noise of their own?

repairdog · February 2007

Often the upper outside lip of the window seal bends in and as the window closes it gets bent in and thus a noise so look up at that - if thats it get a new door seal as those window guards actually have an adhesive that seals to that outer window seal and if its deformed it will always peel away from your new guard - had that happen and tried to cut , reseal etc and never worked.

ibrokeit · February 2007

speaking of window guards, I managed to (accidentally) crack the one on my friend's car tonight. I've run a few searches, but I can't seem to find a price on one. I'm not that good at finding car-related information online, either. Anyone know where (if it's possible) I could order a replacement?

repairdog · February 2007

Come as a set so have to buy the front 2 or all 4.

jlflemmons · February 2007

After reading all the horror stories about DexCool, I decided to get the system flushed and refilled on the little used '99 I bought for the kids. Haven't had any problems, but buying used gave me no indication of when or if it had been done, and the vehicle has 77K on it. After reading the recommended process to follow, I let the dealer do it. Took almost two hours.

I asked the service guy about the history with DexCool and all the class action lawsuits. He told me that when they get one that has gone bad, they sample the antifreeze for analysis. Almost without fail, the analysis shows cross contamination with ethylene glycol antifreeze. He said that what they have found is that many times the quicky oil change places, or other "big box" auto centers, do not properly train their folks on how to identify what is in the cooling system. And that if you add so much as one pint of "green" antifreeze to ANY of the long life coolants, you are hosed. The process to properly clean and restore a cooling system after this happens takes over four hours. He also said that even if GM wanted to make folks believe the coolant was good for five years and 100K miles, it didn't make it so. Said that while the DexCool did last longer than ethylene glycol, he still wouldn't go longer than 4 years and 50K.

I asked about converting from DexCool to ethylene glycol and he said their shop had not had much success with it. If the system is in good, non-contaminated condition, it was far cheaper to stick with the flush and fill DexCool. And if it had been contaminated and driven for a while, the damage was already done. Seems the ethylene glycol acts as some sort of catalyst in the DexCool and makes it form sludge.

When I saw what was involved in the proper method of draining, flushing, refilling and purging the air from the cooling system, I decided it was well worth the $118 it cost.

jnohr · March 2007

I had 131,000 miles on my 2001 Blazer when one of the lines wore through by rubbing on the plastic piece that is supposed to protect each line. One line wore through the other. Ha.

bklynblazer02 · March 2007

I spoke to the Mechanic i bought the truck from.
He is going to fix if for me in the Spring.
I put electrical tape on it as suggested and it sealed the window. I put the tape along the whole window edge.

Good temp fix. Thanks to all.
:shades:

ibrokeit · March 2007

Is it possible to order the parts online, or would I need to visit a dealer? If they are available, does anyone know where I should order from?

repairdog · March 2007

All auto stores sell the wind deflectors as a set of 2 or 4.

mrhuman · March 2007

I just bought one and cant find the horn anywhere. when i first tried it i heard it once but i cant make it sound anymore. i have checked everywhere under the hood and cant seem to find it. i noticed in my manual it shows a picture of a horn near the battery but i dont see it there. anyone know where it would be? Thanks.

repairdog · March 2007

Behind the battery in the inner fender area - take battery out to access.

jlflemmons · March 2007

And if it has two, the second one is in the other front fender.

mrhuman · March 2007

Thanks a million!

mmmkaye · March 2007

I have a 2000 Jimmy 4.3L V6 Auto Trans. 2dr 4wd with 175k. It idles and rev's fine until it's under load. From start there is slow acceleration, and won't properly downshift. When climbing even the smallest hill it will only get to about 80km/hr and it takes several minutes to even reach that speed. Passing on level highway, Jimmy downshifts too much it seems and even slows down. With the pedal floored, Jimmy downshifts with high RPM's (4500+) but won't snap out of it at all unless you completely release.

In cruise control, seems to continuously switch between gears on level ground, and when climbing a small hill, will downshift too late, again rev at around 4500, but not release at all when cresting the hill. I have to turn off Cruise and release the gas completely to slow the RPM's and switch to a higher gear.

No indicator lights, and several mechanics have run diagnostics with no codes indicating a problem. Tranny shop says it needs a tune-up, the Tune up shop says it needs a tranny specialist. Fuel filter, plugs and wires recently replaced, no vac leaks and fuel pressure is normal even under load according to the info I have. I'm guessing a sensor... but that opens a whole pandoras box of possibilities. Any advice or suggestions?

repairdog · March 2007

TPS on the throttle body could be defective - that tells the PCM where the throttle is aand commands shifts based on load. Also trans has internal set points if TPS/PCM commands never come. Also when was the cap/rotor changed - hope it was recently or do those first - you could have some arching you can't see (did they put it on a scope or use a full scanner? Then if that all fails I would look at the coil, ign module, and the crank sensor. Assume trans filter was just changed if went to a trans shop.

jessjess1 · March 2007

I AM HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM I HAVE BEEN TRYING TO FIX FOR 4 MONTHS OR LONGER IT IS DRIVING ME CRAZY. DID YOU EVER FIGURE IT OUT.... IF SO PLEASE LET ME KNOW WHAT IT IS..

mmmkaye · March 2007

After 5 mechanics, I finally figured it out. For some reason my vehicle wasn't showing any trouble codes and no indicators would come on. Lazy [non-permissible content removed] Mechanics wouldn't touch a thing unless an error message came up on their diagnostic. What ever happened to look, feel, and listen? Anyway...my Catalytic converter was plugged really bad. I suggested a while back that could be the problem, but the mechanic didn't want to screw around with emmissions standards, etc. Finally found someone willing to replace it (which involves cutting out the old and welding in the new). Jimmy runs like a rocket now. My shifting problems, torque issues, everything is back to normal (and MUCH better gas mileage now too) Cautionary note... if anyone suggests you cut the cat converter out completely be wary. I've been told it will cause back-pressure problems and screw up your injectors in the long run. Hope this helps...

jlflemmons · March 2007

Along a similar note, I was told by a couple of different "authorities" that my cat was the source of noise in the exhaust. I got under the Blazer and found a large dent in the muffler. Got a neighbor to hold the throttle just above idle where the noise was occuring. Lo and behold, the rattling noise isn't in the cat, it is quite obviously coming from the baffle knocked loose in the muffler!

Sometimes we need to look and listen with our own senses, instead of trusting what a book or computer tells us.

auto9999 · March 2007

My dealer says that my 2000 Blazer, 4WD Trailblazer-trim 65,000 original miles, needs repairs on rear pinion leak and loose idler arm, both to be replaced. They say that they can be replaced at the next engine oil change. Their quote is about $300 (including wheel alignment) and $160, respectively. My question is how urgent these repairs are? I do not hear any grinding noise or anything, and the truck is running very smoothly.

repairdog · March 2007

Are the tires wearing up front and does it pull or wander - then should, be done. Idle is on the pass side and a $25 part and align is $75 so thats some labor on replacement. I would think the lower ball joints also are really loose by now more than the idler arm! Known Blazer weak point.
The rear pinion leak - where the front seal where the driveshaft comes out - look under at amount leaking - if really minor then no hurry (see the 1/2" plug halfway up the rear thats the fill plug so use a 1/2' drive extension, just the square end, and open and 80-90 gear oil should be to that level - stick finger in to feel. If leaking thru the rear cover again depends on amount and if thru an axle out the brakes that need to be done now so brakes work correctly.
By 65k you should have also had the trans filter/fluid done and the transfer case fluid (if AutoTrac 4 button then transfer uses blue syn fluid not red Dexron as the transmission does). Hope you have had the Dex cool changed too or you will soon be facing some major cooling system sludging - no matter what the dealer says the GM 5/100 Dex cool has so many suits its not funny but changing and staying on top (watching) the reservior level is key.

auto9999 · March 2007

Thank you , Repairdog, for your quick reply. I will investigate these items.

jlflemmons · March 2007

Is the lower ball wear primarily a 4WD issue? The used 2WD Blazer ('99) I picked up appears to have the original ball joints at 78K and the wear indicator looks good and the steering is tight after replacing the center link.

repairdog · March 2007

Yes 4wd issue. The 2wd ones are larger design. The 4wd have to clear the CV axle so are smaller and thus weaker. My daughters 2wd has 170k and original ball joints while my 4wds all had them by 80k.

fixingwhatnow · March 2007

Hi I read all the messages and just laugh inside with sheer fustration of seeing alot of the same prob.s. Well right now I am looking to find some info on throttle cables or Accelerator Cables which ever you would like to call them as long as i get some were with this i dont care to much as to what you call them. I have a 96 gmc jimmy and need one! as well as many other parts even ones i have replaced not to long ago. but for now where to look and what size to know when finding this part if any one has any insight? I plan to call a few places tomorrow when people get back to work for it is late in maine and we all need our long needed sleep.haha. Of corse it seems to happen when its to late.

jlflemmons · March 2007

Thanks. That clears up my confusion. Here in Texas we see a lot of 2WD and I haven't heard any complaints about premature ball joint wear. Now doesn't it make sense that the vehicle you build for offroad would have smaller joints???

:confuse:

Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

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