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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • quantumtouchflquantumtouchfl Member Posts: 35
    Has anyone experienced a very hard (jammed) shift lever on the column? If so... do you know what caused it? The shifter cable somehow became kinked. It happened to me after the transmission shop replaced the selector shaft seal on the transmission.

    Thank you,

    TJ
  • jpmccrjpmccr Member Posts: 31
    Ok this is a multiple question question. What would make the lights in my 2001 Blazer go out? Talking about the lights for the radio, the control buttons, etc. Pretty much the lights for the center dash console. Not all of them mind you. They seem to be going out a little at a time. Part two is can they be replaced??? I would love any help . . . . .
  • pilot1122pilot1122 Member Posts: 2
    98 Jimmy 4.3 Vortec 4 WD. Vibration appears to be comming from the rear end at 30 mph, then dissappears above that speed. At slow speeds up to 30 mph, a whirring sound is heard from an undetermined direction. At speeds nearing 60 mph, a rear vibration is felt again.

    Would this be the beginning signs of universal joint failure or rear differential failure? any takers??

    pilot 1122
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    "Would this be the beginning signs of universal joint failure or rear differential failure? "

    Very possibly. The whirring at low speed plus the vibration would certainly point in that direction. Get it checked out, because you really, REALLY don't want the joint to let go while driving. If it is the rear one, you just bang up the underside until you get stopped. If the front one, lot's of stuff is going to get messed up.

    Just pull the driveshaft and rotate the u-joints by hand. If they are to the point of vibration, it should be easy to find. If you find a bad one, change them both. After all, they have the same amount of miles on them, and were installed at the same time. So if one is bad, the other won't be far behind.
  • a90myersa90myers Member Posts: 9
    I have a 96 S-10 Blazer. The nise just started. I had the oil changed and had some particles in the oil. When the Blazer is strted it is quiet but starts tapping whewn the engine gets hot. I put 5w-30 when I had the oil change. I don't have alot of money . Do I need a new engine or rebuild?? What is this going to cost.? The car has 154000 other wise a great ride. HELP
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    A tap could be a lot of things. You need to get someone to locate it for you. A rod knock would be *very* apparent. That's a very sharp, very loud noise. Tippity tapping could be a collapsed valve lifter or a worn camshaft. The fact that it starts when hot rather than cold suggests to me a lifter noise.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    5W30 is a bit lightweight for an engine with that many miles, especially if you are in a hot climate. I have always gone with 10W30 with good results.

    If on a tight budget, you can get a 5 quart jug of Castrol GTX 10W30 for less than $12 at WalMart. Excellent oil, very good price.

    I agree with shifty, it sounds like a lifter leaking down.
  • quantumtouchflquantumtouchfl Member Posts: 35
    I have a 96 Blazer too... 190K miles... very pleased with the service it provides me. I had the same thing happen to me with my 1981 Pontiac Grand Prix with a Chevy V8... its a transplant... just happened one morning when I got in and started it up... once warmed up... lifter noise... which I isolated to number 8 cylinder. Pulled valve cover... everthing looked good. Compression test... good. I took it out.. ran it on the Highway... and it worked itself out... Finale conclusion... a lifter may have gotten an air bubble somehow... or a piece of debris. Prior to this happening... the plug wire came unsnaped off the spark plug... not all the way off the plug... but I was getting a backfire every once in a while. This went on for two weeks... after the third backfire... I made a complete inspection... and found the loose wire. If your budget permits... upgrade your ignition system to a brass contact cap and rotor... well worth the money. Note: I use AmsOil 10w-40 full synthetic in both my vehicles... I have been using this oil since 1978... hey... I live in Florida. I hope this helps.

    Take care,

    TJ
  • psychropodpsychropod Member Posts: 4
    I'm in here because the server hosting www.blazerforum.com crashed. This was my one-stop-shop for all my Blazer questions. I can comfortably say it has been turning me into a Blazer expert. LOL

    The second thing I want to say is that you should purchase a service manual (e.g. Haynes, Chiltons) specific to your vehicle. They cost ~$15 and are a worthwhile investment. They answer a lot of these questions. For those questions I still can't find the answers to, I post on the Web. Haynes actually includes a list of the trouble codes with the answer next to it. You're lucky, because I happen to have my Haynes manual right in front of me. ;-)

    Now, to answer your question: There is no PO410 code. There is also no such thing as an air injection system. There is a FUEL injection system, and there is an AIR INTAKE that funnels air into the engine to promote combustion. I suspect what you really meant was:

    PO401: Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system flow insufficient.

    This most likely means you need to replace the EGR valve. It's an emissions device. It appears to be an easy repair, and a service manual will tell you how to do it. Hope this helps.
  • psychropodpsychropod Member Posts: 4
    I am trying to drop my gas tank to replace the fuel pump. 1st i am having problems draining tank by siphon from gas fill tube. There is a stopper of some sort blocking my hose. Next I am wondering how to get to gas lines to disconnect. I assume thay are on the top of the tank. Do I drop tank and then disconnect?
    ------------

    The answer is yes. I ran into the same problem three days ago. This really sucked, since I had just filled the tank the same day my pump failed. LOL

    But don't worry. Just be sure that when you disconnect the tank, you lower it slowly, using a block of wood and a jack. This prevents the extra-heavy tank from falling and spilling gas all over the place. You can then support the tank on cinder blocks and pour the gas out into another container after it's off the truck. That's what we did. Another option is to siphon it after removing the fuel filler hose, but IMO the first method is faster and easier.

    Oh yeah...regarding the second question. We had to cut the fuel filler and recirc hoses. It was the only way. A sharp razor will get it off in seconds. IMPORTANT: They must be replaced by FUEL hoses of the same rating, NOT any other type of hose. This is because fuel eats through rubber, unless it is made out of a special material. We went to four different parts stores, and nobody had the right one. We had to go to the dealer and spend more money, but it's worth it!

    Good luck!
  • psychropodpsychropod Member Posts: 4
    Ok this is a multiple question question. What would make the lights in my 2001 Blazer go out? Talking about the lights for the radio, the control buttons, etc. Pretty much the lights for the center dash console. Not all of them mind you. They seem to be going out a little at a time. Part two is can they be replaced??? I would love any help . . . . .
    -------------

    Your most likely culprit is the ignition switch, as it controls multiple things on the dash. This is a common problem on these trucks. If you have a service manual, you can likely do it yourself. If not, your best bet is to take it to a GM dealer. You'll pay a little more money, but it will probably be done right.
  • 20blazer0020blazer00 Member Posts: 28
    Hey all.
    Just wanted to inform you all on a bit of news I just learned of this week. At first I read and heard that Chevy was in no way getting rid of the Blazer/Trailblazer name plate in favor of a cross-over like the Acadia/Outlook/Enclave. Because they said tht Chevy would loose its [non-permissible content removed], on the deal. Namly because the Blazer family is a very big part of their reveneue.
    Well, sadly, they just reversed that decision. This is the last year for this grand family. GM decided it needed 4 of these POS cross overs. I for one think that Chevy
    needs to strike out and leave GM. ell chevy could and would prospire. Because they are the one company that has kept GM alive for years. Sorry, Ill get off my soapbox now!!!
    We as Chevy Blazer owners need to do what ever possible, to keep ours running and let GM keep seeing them. So, the best name plate to Chevy wont be forgotten!!!!
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    A good safety item is to drive a piece of rebar into the ground near the vehicle. Take a set of jumper cables and clamp one pos and one neg to the rebar. Then connect the other pos to the frame of the vehicle, and the other neg to the gas tank. Disconnect the battery, and you will have eliminated the possibility of a static charge building up. You don't want any sparkies when you are pulling a fuel tank. It's the fumes that will blow if there is a spark in the area.

    Also, if using a drop light, be sure to keep it away from the tank. A Ford mechanic in my home town had done everything right before pulling a Lincoln fuel tank, only to have his drop light fall against the tank, break the bulb, and ignite. He was in his 30's.
  • 00jimmy00jimmy Member Posts: 5
    We changed the fuel pump several times on one of our Jimmys, thinking they were going bad. Turned out the problem was a bad connection in the plug on the pump, which sits on top of the tank. You can usually reach the plug if you drop the spare tire. It is worth checking to see if your problem is there....
  • trail1trail1 Member Posts: 1
    It takes me forever to get back into 2 Wheel Drive after being in 4 Wheel Drive. I keep pushing the 2WD button and restarting the vehicle, and finally it goes back into 2WD. What is causing the problem and is this an expensive repair? Help
  • danvossendanvossen Member Posts: 3
    We have also had on- going trouble with the 2/4 wheel drive unit of our 2000 Blazer. It would get stuck in one or the other and you could not change it. The problem was diagnosed as corroded wires and connections in the control module located behind the passenger side kick panel inside the truck. This happened in about 2003 (after warranty had expired) and that unit was replaced.To the tune of about $500.00. The dealer suspected that water leaking into this area had caused the damage. They recommended a leak test which was performed but were not able to find where the water was getting in.They said it would probably happen again. It did, about three years later. This time we had our local mechanic look at it and he was able to clean up the wires and connection and apply dielectric grease to it. It is a temporary repair but effective.. That control box will also emit a re-occurring clicking sound for no reason ( turn signal sound )

    Dan
  • a90myersa90myers Member Posts: 9
    I talked to a friend and they told me to drain1/2 to 1 quart of oil out of the engine then put tranny fluid in. Let the blazer run-idle for 20-30 minutes. Drain it , addd 30 weight oil and "Lucas" oil treatment and that should quiet the noise. Should I try this before going inot the shop for flywheel replacement???
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Well, that is a way to flush a lifter, but I am assuming the flywheel is another issue?
  • duntovduntov Member Posts: 133
    I did that motor flush several times in old cars I purchased to restore. However, I used kerosene and motor oil rather than transmission fluid and motor oil. After I poured the mix in the engines, I drove the cars for about 30 miles no faster than 40 MPH and then drained the oil/kerosene mix and replace it with regular engine oil. It took two times to quiet the lifters in two 1962 Pontiacs. I later used a 50-50 mix of Shaler Risolone and motor oil rather than kerosene and motor oil in two 1963 Pontiacs and it worked much better after about 100 miles of slow driving. On both occasions the engine had more performance afterwards because the lifters were free and were functioning properly which allowed correct valve action.
  • a90myersa90myers Member Posts: 9
    Put the tranny fluid in blazer and ran it for about 1/2 hour. Changed the oil put 30weight and lucas in. Tapping just the same.. I guess it is the flywheel,
  • a90myersa90myers Member Posts: 9
    My blazer is in the shop. They thought the tapping noise was the flywheel. Dropped the tranny, the flywheel is good. Now they are telling me the rear bearring is bad in the engine. Should I have the rocker replaced just to rule that out or get another engine???
  • duntovduntov Member Posts: 133
    The labor replacing the rear main bearing is nearly the same as replacing the engine. Get an estimate from the shop that told you the rear main bearing is bad. I would guess that it would cost from $1200 to $1800 to recondition the crank and install new rod and main bearings, depending on the other parts that are replaced. .

    An aftermarket rebuilt long block (including rebuilt heads) will cost $1000 to $1100 outright less $200 - $300 credit for your old long block.. That will be about $900 -$1000 net for a rebuilt engine plus $1000 labor cost so expect a total cost of $2000..

    A Mr. Goodwrench V6 4.3L (GM-12361243) engine will cost abouut $2100 plus the $1000 labor cost from an independent automobile shop is $3100-.

    A Mr. Goodwrench engine indstalled at a Chevrolet dealership will cost $1600 labor because a dealership usually charges $100 an hour because they want to discourage non-warranty work. Chevrolet dealership have all the new car warranty work they can handle and new car warranty work takes priority over non-warranty work.
  • wvscroungerwvscrounger Member Posts: 1
    I have no brake lights ( all 3 inoperatable) when I press on the brake..
    1.Hazard lights work
    2.turn signals work
    3. all bulbs are good
    4, wiring harness under rear bumper is ok

    is this a possible bad brake switch???? where is it located? and how hard to replace?

    or is it something else???
    any help is much appreceiated!
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Probably a bad brake light switch. It is mounted down by the brake pedal arm, cheap part, easy to replace.

    Does your cruise control release when you step on the brake? Be careful, that could get exciting! The release of the cruise comes from the same switch assembly, but may be a different set of contacts in the switch.
  • unt5504unt5504 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 96 S-10 Blazer and it stalled on the highway so i took to a repair shop they said it was my fuel pump, did not believe them because it had it replaced 3 years ago so i took it home and worked on it replaced the dist cap starter cleaned the fuel injection system and replace the in line fuel filter, and before all this i had a slight knocking noise like the guy had in his s10 but now the engine will not crank at a certain part we tried to turn it over manually with a wrench and it is gets stuck and it really tough to get past that part any suggestions
  • quantumtouchflquantumtouchfl Member Posts: 35
    How many miles on your Blazer? Do you smell fuel? Has the fuel regulator valve been replace? Remove all spark plugs and see if the engine cranks freely... Have someone watch from the front to see if any fuel comes out of any cylinder. Pull plentum... watch fuel regulator... it will probably be leaking.

    Hope this helps,

    TJ
  • adamstrattonadamstratton Member Posts: 2
    hi i have a 98 chevy blazer and my transmission makes a howling noise and the floor boards get hot and somtimes it makes a grinding noise as im driving but the transmission still shifts and drives and my rpm gauge also stopped working i need help i dont wanna have to change the trany
  • adamstrattonadamstratton Member Posts: 2
    i have a 98 chevy blazer and the trany makes a howling noise i can feel it on the floor and the floors in the front get hot and somtimes it makes a little grinding noise can some one tell me wahts wrong with it
  • quantumtouchflquantumtouchfl Member Posts: 35
    How many miles on the transmission? I had over 160,000 on my when I lost the 3/4 clutch pack (final drive gear)... no noise... just didnt go anywhere when you applied throttle.

    It just may be time for a rebuild... do your homework and find someone good. The dealership would not touch mine because of the milege... go figure. The shop I went to had all the equipment for testing the solenoids, valve body, etc under operating temperatures and conditions... so when they put these components back into the tranny... they knew for sure that they work. Also... they insisted on using synthetic transmission fluid... or no three year warranty... I was using Amsoil anyway... so I had no problem with that.

    I had them do one upgrade to the tranny... 3/4 clutch pack originally has seven clutch plates... they suggeste an upgrade to one that had nine clutch plates... Tranny feel just like original... very pleased with work.

    Hope this helps,
    TJ
  • mwolf9000mwolf9000 Member Posts: 29
    The water pump on my '96 Jimmy (4.3L V-6) is leaking badly (from the back on the right side). But I'm having difficulty removing the fan clutch so that I can get the fan off first. How does it come off? I can see that it has a coil spring on the end. Is this it?

    Please help.
  • jpmccrjpmccr Member Posts: 31
    2001 Blazer 4X4, 120140 miles, replaced the battery 10/05, new alternator 8/06. Problem is there are no lights (dash, radio, etc.). No horn headlights; absolutely no power at all. My wife jumps me with her car and after about 10 minutes of letting charge it finally turns over. Once the cables come off, it runs but then stalls when I drop it into drive and then back to square one. Absolutley no power to anything. Is it the ignition switch or a bad battery. A little frustrating. PLEASE HELP ME! It is almost paid off and I really don't want another car payment!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :cry:
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Find a volt meter and measure across the battery when the engine is running. Anything less than 13.6V and you have a charging problem. If that was a new alternator two years ago, it should be fine. If a rebuilt, all bets are off. I have seen high quality rebuilts last as long as the OEM. I have seen other rebuilts barely make it past one year.
  • jpmccrjpmccr Member Posts: 31
    Ok here's the poop. Found my delapidated volt meter and used my wife's car to jump start my Blazer. Hers of course was right on 14V. My truck started and mine was also 14V - altenator was not the problem. Disconnected and tried to pull out and it stalled. Took the battery to Advance Auto and put it on their analyzer. End result - bad battery. So bought a new one and installed it. Runs like a champ!!!!!! We like simple fixes!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :shades:
  • johnss10johnss10 Member Posts: 46
    The fan and clutch come off as an assembly, This assembly screws onto the water pump with left-hand threads (reverse of normal) so that is tightens as the engine runs. There is a special open end wrench for this(I foprget the size) but it can be rented at many parts stores. Put it on the nut and whack it with a big hammer, then the whole thing screws off.
  • johnss10johnss10 Member Posts: 46
    The heater core replacement isn't hard, just really time consuming, like all day, or maybe 2 days. Chiltons or one of the other repair books have directions. Lots of screws to keep track of.
  • johnss10johnss10 Member Posts: 46
    When you do this (or get it done) buy the best heater core you cna get, like the Delco one. The labor to replace a cheap core again will more than offset the extra cost of the core.

    Also, a mix of orange and green coolant will contribute to this, as well as leaking water pump seals. The seals in the water punp were changed to be compatible with the Dexcool, not so compatible with the green stuff.

    Use the Dexcool ( orange stuff) but be sure to replace it completely no more than every three years.
  • johnss10johnss10 Member Posts: 46
    One thing to check is the battery cable connection at the battery. I had a situation where either the bolt in the cable was too long or the hole in the battery was too shallow. Either way , the battery cable wouldn't tighten down correctly. I put a washer under the battery cable bolt, then put the cable on the battery and tightened the connection. No more problems. Another battery wold probably also fix it, but the washer was cheaper.
  • johnss10johnss10 Member Posts: 46
    It's supposed to work this way. The purpose is to assist with the defog of the interior of the windshield with dry, de-humidified air that is created by the A/C. Not so important in AZ, but really helpful in the humid southeast.
  • quantumtouchflquantumtouchfl Member Posts: 35
    The fan/clutch assembly comes off the water pump together. Do not mess with the spring. It takes a special tool set to loosen and remove this assembly... unless you are very creative with your tools. When you put the assembly back together... do not tighten excessively... just a tweek... and use plenty of anti-sieze on the treads of the pump and the fan/clutch assembly... this way... the next time you need to remove... you only need an adjustable wrench to loosen the nut... the belt should be tight enoutg to hold the water pump from turning.

    Take care
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Two things that can kill a weak battery are extreme cold and extreme heat. I just replaced the battery in my '02. It had shown no problems at all until last week when I turned the key, it started to crank, and then stone dead.

    There are six cells in a 12V battery, approx 2.2V each. When you measure a battery and get 10.4ish volts, two of the cells have shorted. In my case, I measured 5.6 volts, which basically means the guts came apart in the battery.

    Now, boys and girls, here's a neat trick. If you get caught somewhere with no jumpers, turn on the lights and note how bright they are. If very bright, but go out when you turn the key, the battery has a partial short. If the lights are just dim and go dimmer when you turn the key to start, the battery has run down, possibly from a weak or failed alternator.

    But for the big trick, if the battery has been working fine and suddenly did a face plant, find a wrench and loosen the battery anchor. I know everyone here always has the battery anchored down, right? Anyway, once the battery is loose, lift it about an inch or so and drop it. Don't get the goo from the battery on your clothes, unless you really like the grunge look.

    Dropping the battery like this can dislodge the pieces of lead plate that have shorted and give you another start. This is a great trick, and I have used it successfully several times. Now, it doesn't fix the battery, you are still going to shell out for a new one, but it can get you to the parts house to do so.

    Jim
  • 380kmiles380kmiles Member Posts: 1
    have you considered THE CATALYTIC CONVERTER ?? I HAD THAT PROBLEM..RAN FINE UNTIL THE TRUCK WOULD WARM UP ... then i would have to wait until the car cooled down a bit and it would be ok until another 5 miles or so...replaced the catalytic converter and that took care of the problem...
  • sam1969sam1969 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 Chevy Blazer, it keeps locking itself into 4 Lo. I put it back into 2 HI but today, it locked itself into 4 Lo and wouldn't come out. The Service 4WD light is on and my mechanic kept pushing the buttons on the dash until he got it into 2 Hi then he unplugged the 4X4 pushbutton switch on the dash. Is this a costly item to replace???
  • james1000james1000 Member Posts: 1
    My 1998 Blazer has problems switching from 2wd to 4wd. When the 2wd light is on I can switch to 4wd sometimes. The 2wd had switched to 4wd by itself when starting the car. When this happens the buttons stop working and the car is stuck in 4wd. The lights are unpredictable, sometimes on sometimes off, they change while I'm driving. I've been told to disconnect the battery, ground the cables, reconnect the battery if I push the buttons and nothing happens. Most of the time this works, but you can emagine the headache this is! I'm looking for a fix that doesn't require several failed attempts at finding the right solution. We all know how expensive and time consuming it is to keep guessing at what the problem is. Anybody had this problem?
  • jpmccrjpmccr Member Posts: 31
    2001 Blazer 4X4, 120,630 miles. Problem: refuses to start. New battery, altenator; starter is turning over engine. It sounds like it wants to start however it will not "catch". Where should I check first? Wires, plugs, distributor cap, rotor??? I have changed any of the above in a while (really long while). Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!!!!!! I really need to get this thing up and running.
  • jpmccrjpmccr Member Posts: 31
    Now for the strange thing. It sat since Friday morning when this all started. It didn’t start. We took off for the weekend in my wife’s car and came back Sunday. Tried again. No luck. Got up this morning and again it wouldn’t start. Then I got thinking did I hear the fuel pump “whine up” as I call it. Well I tried it and sure enough it was, which to me meant at least the pump was doing something. I did it twice. Then just for grins and giggles, I tried to start it. It fired right up!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Have no idea unless my fuel filter was clogged and I broke something loose. So this weekend I am going to replace the fuel filter and run a fuel treatment/injector cleaner through the system.
  • jpmccrjpmccr Member Posts: 31
    Ok, it has to be the fuel pump. It did start and ran great for three days. Then the same thing. I did get stranded but it was at work so no foul. I finally got it to turn over so the wife and I went back to my office and I drove it home. Now that it is here, I can search for a fuel filter and if I am lucky have it start just one more time so I can drive it to the shop and not have to have it towed there. Any suggestions on where to look and what a good price would be? Thanks.
  • duntovduntov Member Posts: 133
    NAPA has good products. The NAPA premium 65 lb. output fuel pump is $95 including seals. NAPA fuel pump strainer is $8 and fuel pump wiring harness is $10. All those items should be replaced when the fuel pump is replaced or the new fuel pump will prematurely fail again.
  • kennethgkennethg Member Posts: 1
    I am trying to change the passenger side head light with little success - tried to remove the battery to get to it with no success - can you help resolve my issue ?

    Lights out in missouri
  • duntovduntov Member Posts: 133
    I can change a 1991 Blazer headlight blindfolded. They can b e replaced from the front just like all GM headlights have been replaced as far back at 1948. All you need is a wire coathanger with a little hook on the end, a long, thin, flat-blade screwdriver and a little stool to sit on. Reach in with the hooked-end coathanger to pull out the headlight spring and unhook it from the headlight retaining ring, unscrew the two headlight ring attachment screws from the headlight ring , pull out the headlight and unplug it from the wiring harness. . Then reassemble it in reverse. Don't remove or unscrew the headlight aiming screws.

    You probably have the "new and improved" headlight assemblies.. I have never replaced the whole headlight assembly on one of those but the little bulb is the twist in type that twists into the socket hole in the headlight assembly. I assume you are having a problem finding the headlight socket hiole. The headlight bulbs on the other later model cars I have replaced does not require removing the whole headlight assembly. Don't touch the new bulb with your fingers or it will prematurely fail. Those little twist in headlight bulbs burn hotter and the oil from your fingers will cause the glass to fracture.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    What year model? The newer (96 and newer) just use two tabs that are pulled up and release the headlight assembly. Bulb change takes less than 5 minutes.
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