Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Thank you,
TJ
Would this be the beginning signs of universal joint failure or rear differential failure? any takers??
pilot 1122
Very possibly. The whirring at low speed plus the vibration would certainly point in that direction. Get it checked out, because you really, REALLY don't want the joint to let go while driving. If it is the rear one, you just bang up the underside until you get stopped. If the front one, lot's of stuff is going to get messed up.
Just pull the driveshaft and rotate the u-joints by hand. If they are to the point of vibration, it should be easy to find. If you find a bad one, change them both. After all, they have the same amount of miles on them, and were installed at the same time. So if one is bad, the other won't be far behind.
If on a tight budget, you can get a 5 quart jug of Castrol GTX 10W30 for less than $12 at WalMart. Excellent oil, very good price.
I agree with shifty, it sounds like a lifter leaking down.
Take care,
TJ
The second thing I want to say is that you should purchase a service manual (e.g. Haynes, Chiltons) specific to your vehicle. They cost ~$15 and are a worthwhile investment. They answer a lot of these questions. For those questions I still can't find the answers to, I post on the Web. Haynes actually includes a list of the trouble codes with the answer next to it. You're lucky, because I happen to have my Haynes manual right in front of me. ;-)
Now, to answer your question: There is no PO410 code. There is also no such thing as an air injection system. There is a FUEL injection system, and there is an AIR INTAKE that funnels air into the engine to promote combustion. I suspect what you really meant was:
PO401: Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system flow insufficient.
This most likely means you need to replace the EGR valve. It's an emissions device. It appears to be an easy repair, and a service manual will tell you how to do it. Hope this helps.
------------
The answer is yes. I ran into the same problem three days ago. This really sucked, since I had just filled the tank the same day my pump failed. LOL
But don't worry. Just be sure that when you disconnect the tank, you lower it slowly, using a block of wood and a jack. This prevents the extra-heavy tank from falling and spilling gas all over the place. You can then support the tank on cinder blocks and pour the gas out into another container after it's off the truck. That's what we did. Another option is to siphon it after removing the fuel filler hose, but IMO the first method is faster and easier.
Oh yeah...regarding the second question. We had to cut the fuel filler and recirc hoses. It was the only way. A sharp razor will get it off in seconds. IMPORTANT: They must be replaced by FUEL hoses of the same rating, NOT any other type of hose. This is because fuel eats through rubber, unless it is made out of a special material. We went to four different parts stores, and nobody had the right one. We had to go to the dealer and spend more money, but it's worth it!
Good luck!
-------------
Your most likely culprit is the ignition switch, as it controls multiple things on the dash. This is a common problem on these trucks. If you have a service manual, you can likely do it yourself. If not, your best bet is to take it to a GM dealer. You'll pay a little more money, but it will probably be done right.
Just wanted to inform you all on a bit of news I just learned of this week. At first I read and heard that Chevy was in no way getting rid of the Blazer/Trailblazer name plate in favor of a cross-over like the Acadia/Outlook/Enclave. Because they said tht Chevy would loose its [non-permissible content removed], on the deal. Namly because the Blazer family is a very big part of their reveneue.
Well, sadly, they just reversed that decision. This is the last year for this grand family. GM decided it needed 4 of these POS cross overs. I for one think that Chevy
needs to strike out and leave GM. ell chevy could and would prospire. Because they are the one company that has kept GM alive for years. Sorry, Ill get off my soapbox now!!!
We as Chevy Blazer owners need to do what ever possible, to keep ours running and let GM keep seeing them. So, the best name plate to Chevy wont be forgotten!!!!
Also, if using a drop light, be sure to keep it away from the tank. A Ford mechanic in my home town had done everything right before pulling a Lincoln fuel tank, only to have his drop light fall against the tank, break the bulb, and ignite. He was in his 30's.
Dan
An aftermarket rebuilt long block (including rebuilt heads) will cost $1000 to $1100 outright less $200 - $300 credit for your old long block.. That will be about $900 -$1000 net for a rebuilt engine plus $1000 labor cost so expect a total cost of $2000..
A Mr. Goodwrench V6 4.3L (GM-12361243) engine will cost abouut $2100 plus the $1000 labor cost from an independent automobile shop is $3100-.
A Mr. Goodwrench engine indstalled at a Chevrolet dealership will cost $1600 labor because a dealership usually charges $100 an hour because they want to discourage non-warranty work. Chevrolet dealership have all the new car warranty work they can handle and new car warranty work takes priority over non-warranty work.
1.Hazard lights work
2.turn signals work
3. all bulbs are good
4, wiring harness under rear bumper is ok
is this a possible bad brake switch???? where is it located? and how hard to replace?
or is it something else???
any help is much appreceiated!
Does your cruise control release when you step on the brake? Be careful, that could get exciting! The release of the cruise comes from the same switch assembly, but may be a different set of contacts in the switch.
Hope this helps,
TJ
It just may be time for a rebuild... do your homework and find someone good. The dealership would not touch mine because of the milege... go figure. The shop I went to had all the equipment for testing the solenoids, valve body, etc under operating temperatures and conditions... so when they put these components back into the tranny... they knew for sure that they work. Also... they insisted on using synthetic transmission fluid... or no three year warranty... I was using Amsoil anyway... so I had no problem with that.
I had them do one upgrade to the tranny... 3/4 clutch pack originally has seven clutch plates... they suggeste an upgrade to one that had nine clutch plates... Tranny feel just like original... very pleased with work.
Hope this helps,
TJ
Please help.
Also, a mix of orange and green coolant will contribute to this, as well as leaking water pump seals. The seals in the water punp were changed to be compatible with the Dexcool, not so compatible with the green stuff.
Use the Dexcool ( orange stuff) but be sure to replace it completely no more than every three years.
Take care
There are six cells in a 12V battery, approx 2.2V each. When you measure a battery and get 10.4ish volts, two of the cells have shorted. In my case, I measured 5.6 volts, which basically means the guts came apart in the battery.
Now, boys and girls, here's a neat trick. If you get caught somewhere with no jumpers, turn on the lights and note how bright they are. If very bright, but go out when you turn the key, the battery has a partial short. If the lights are just dim and go dimmer when you turn the key to start, the battery has run down, possibly from a weak or failed alternator.
But for the big trick, if the battery has been working fine and suddenly did a face plant, find a wrench and loosen the battery anchor. I know everyone here always has the battery anchored down, right? Anyway, once the battery is loose, lift it about an inch or so and drop it. Don't get the goo from the battery on your clothes, unless you really like the grunge look.
Dropping the battery like this can dislodge the pieces of lead plate that have shorted and give you another start. This is a great trick, and I have used it successfully several times. Now, it doesn't fix the battery, you are still going to shell out for a new one, but it can get you to the parts house to do so.
Jim
Lights out in missouri
You probably have the "new and improved" headlight assemblies.. I have never replaced the whole headlight assembly on one of those but the little bulb is the twist in type that twists into the socket hole in the headlight assembly. I assume you are having a problem finding the headlight socket hiole. The headlight bulbs on the other later model cars I have replaced does not require removing the whole headlight assembly. Don't touch the new bulb with your fingers or it will prematurely fail. Those little twist in headlight bulbs burn hotter and the oil from your fingers will cause the glass to fracture.