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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • friend2friend2 Member Posts: 2
    I recently bought a '96 Jimmy for my son. We have been looking at fuel economy and I thought we should look at the spark plugs to see what kind of shape they are in. This is a 4 x 4 with 87600 miles on it.

    I am embarrassed to say I could not trace down the spark plugs. I need someone to tell me where they are located at on the engine. Also the best way of pulling each of them.

    It is the 4.3L, V6.

    Thank you
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    It's a Chevy engine, and the plugs are under the exhaust manifolds instead of above. Most are easy to get to, except the #3. That's the middle plug on the drivers side. Easiest way to get that one out is to disconnect the steering shaft from the steering gearbox and move the shaft out of the way an inch or so.

    Be sure and put platinum tip plugs back in. They will last a good 75K miles or more. Also be sure to change the rotor and cap. The rotors will cook off twice as fast as the plugs. Easy to change, and should be done every 50K at least.
  • johnss10johnss10 Member Posts: 46
    Also, get a good brand cap and rotor, like Delco. The house brand ones don't last very long.
  • friend2friend2 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for your input.

    I am looking on how to improve the gas mileage and performance. Are there other things we can do ourselves to the engine?

    Any additives that actually work out there as well?
  • duntovduntov Member Posts: 133
    The 3.4L Chevrolet V6 is very limited to performance up-grades. It was about optimum in performance when it left the factory. The exhaust system is very good and the ignition system is excellent. The S10/S15 Blazer/Jimmy fuel injection system can support up to 300 HP without any modification.

    Use a premimum NAPA distributor cap with brass electrodes. The AC Delco distributor cap is equipped with aluminum electrodes which will oxidize and fill the cap with alumium oxide dust which will cause spark scatter, especially with the factory high voltage electronic ignition systems.
  • beneycebeneyce Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I have a 1995 GMC Jimmy. I have replaced the water pump and thermostat due to a percieved overheating problem. I have a snapon mt2500 that I hooked up to the computer. The temperature is running from 185 degrees to about 195 on the scan took. No over heating. It is cooling just as it should. The gauge reads about 250 degrees. Is this a common problem? How can I fix this problem. temp sending unit? or different gauge cluster? Any ideas? Thanks -Ben
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    The sending unit is more likely the culprit. If you have access to an ohm meter, you can check the resistance of the sending unit. It should read around 2.5K to 5K cold, and below 200-300 ohms hot (170 to 200 degrees).
  • deniceddeniced Member Posts: 1
    Last week while driving my 97 Blazer i noticed the volt gauge dip down to about 12 and the running lights went out. It immediately went back up to 14 but the lights never came back on. When i restart it the lights come back on again. I had the alternator replaced even tho it tested fine. The battery also tested fine. It continued to happen about 3 times on my 20 mile drive to work every day for the last week. This morning i started it and was backing down the driveway and it died. It restarted and i got it back up the drive. It died again. Now when i try to start it i dont hear the fuel pump. Are these problems related?
  • johnss10johnss10 Member Posts: 46
    This really sounds like a loose connection. Alternator is 14 volts, battery is 12 volts, so the alternator is going offline when the voltage drops to 12. Could be alternator or battery, or ground. I had a similar situation and it turned out that the hole in the battery for the positive cable bolt was too shallow, so the bolt bottomed out and was not really tight. A washer under the bolt fixed it.
  • dbraganzadbraganza Member Posts: 1
    Hi

    I am new to the forums and as such don't have much of an idea how it works. I recently bought a 95 GMC Jimmy and have noticed that the truck seems to dart to the left of right when I am driving. There is also quite a bit of play in the steering wheel. I have also noticed that the truck seems to lean to the passenger front side when turn sharp corners. I am wondering if anyone would have a general idea of what could be causing this problem. The truck is in mint condition other than having 314,000 km, but the engine and transmission were re-built at around 170,000 km. I will be taking it into a shop soon, but i don't want to get ripped off, so I though I would ask here first. Thanks, in advance, for your time and help.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Ouch! If a 4WD, probably ball joints. Also should have a close look at the tie rod ends, centerlink, and idler arm. Idler arm, tie rod ends, and center link are easy to change. Ball joints, you need to know what you are doing as the springs are involved and care must be taken to compress them safely during the repair.
  • kmb6013kmb6013 Member Posts: 3
    Does anyone have any info as to why my 4X4 comes and goes as it pleases? The lights on the dash blink or go out completely and the truck runs like garbage and now the service engine soon light comes on. It feels like the brake is on until it gets into second gear (auto trans). If I manually shift gears it's not as bad, though (again...auto trans). I've been searching for related issues for 4X4 problems but can't find any. I'm trying to diagnose this myself so I don't have to pay a mechanic a couple hundred bucks just to look at it. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • kmb6013kmb6013 Member Posts: 3
    the anti-theft system is full of bugs. there is only one way to fix it and that's by bypassing the system. however, the only way to do that is by having a remote starter put in. i went through the same thing and replaced the ignition and switch but it still happened. after i put the remote starter in i never had the problem again and that was 2 years ago.
  • johnss10johnss10 Member Posts: 46
    Slop in the steering could be a lot of things, as mentioned. Also, if 4WD the axle hubs and wheel bearings may need to be replaced. Thats a lot of miles, and most people don't lube the front end parts very regularly, so a lot of wear is not suprising. I would go to a front end alignment shop first, preferably non-chain, and have them check the alignment, usually $25 or so. Stick around while they do it, and they can show you where the free-play is. Once you know what is needed, then you can get some estimates on repairs. For parts, I've been using Rock Auto, online store, good prices, quick shipping, usually name brand parts. I don't have any vested interest in the store, just good results. Tie rod ends are less than $10, not too tough to do at home, ball joints less than $20 each, much harder to do at home.
  • duntovduntov Member Posts: 133
    Unfortunately, most repair shops will charge you a diagontic fee and it may be as much as $90. It may be waived if the shop does the work, but then you must trust them to install the better quality parts and not just charge you for the better parts and install junk parts made of Chineseium. Rock Auto is an excellent source of good quality name brand parts and I use them quite often in my restorations. However, but you must intstall the Rock Auto parts yourself. If there is a job above my pay grade, I have a younger gauy I found on Craigs List who will install my parts while i watch. I pay him $40 per hour and I still come out cheaper than taking it to a crooked repair shop. I would estimate that 85% of the auto repair shops are crooks. That is the only way they can make a decent profit.
  • chevguy1chevguy1 Member Posts: 6
    I have a 99 blazer 4x4 that I put in 4 low and the light on the dash just kept blinking, althought the vehicle felt like it was in low I don't believe the front was working. I then put it in 4 high and the light wouldn'tstop flashing also. when I put it back in 2 high all was wll. I tried this a couple of times and had the same result. Whaddaya think? Thanks Lorenzo
  • mwolf9000mwolf9000 Member Posts: 29
    Your Blazer needs vacuum pressure from the manifold to shift into 4wd. So I'd start by checking the vacuum lines from the manifold.
  • elaney1981elaney1981 Member Posts: 16
    I would change the dimmer/headlight switch. i had no dash lights only my aftermarket radio.
  • johnss10johnss10 Member Posts: 46
    The first thing to check is that the front drive axle is engaging. The most common failure is the vacuum that activates it. There is a vacuum line that goes to the shift mechanism passes under the battery on its way to the front axle. Fumes tend to disintegrate this line. Crawl under the front while someone inside switches from 2wd to 4wd and see if the actuator moves. Unplug the vacuum line and see if you feel vacuum. If not,replace the line.

    If this is OK, get the Haynes or Chilton manual (I have both) to see how the shifter motor is attached.
  • scruffieladscruffielad Member Posts: 1
    I may have a slightly bent front lower control arm that may be causing alignment problems. If so, could this be adjusted to some degree?
  • johnss10johnss10 Member Posts: 46
    I think the answer is Maybe. It depends on direction and how "slight" the damage is. The only way to know is to take it to an alignment shop. I would go to a non-chain (individually owned) shop and have them check it.
  • chevygirl77chevygirl77 Member Posts: 2
    I took my Blazer to a buddy for him to look at and they told me it was the over drive bearing. I have never heard of an over drive bearing They told me that my whole engine had to be replaced and that just didn't sound right to me. Because Overdrive has everything to do with the transmission now if there is such thing as over drive bearing it would be in the gear box or somewhere in the tranny right? and how would I fix it
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Forget the "buddy" and find a reputable garage to look at the vehicle. Might cost you $100 for their diagnostic services, but save you thousands in an unwarranted repair.

    There is no such thing as an "overdrive bearing" in an engine.
  • chevygirl77chevygirl77 Member Posts: 2
    ok so let me ask u this is there anything along those lines in tranny the blazer won't move so i can't take it to a shop its 4 wheel drive
  • 20blazer0020blazer00 Member Posts: 28
    Hi all,
    I had to buy a new remote the other day. But as of yet, havent gotten it to work.I called several Chevy dealers an found out that the one I bought was the only one for my year blazer. So, that is not a problem. IS there a set way to get the camputer to learn the new one,besides using a hand comp plugged in.?
    I did find out that someone changed the remote before and the old one I had was never for the blazer( but they did get it to work)
    The same dumb azz had an aftermarket alarm put into. (but this doesnt work and hasnt since I got it. ( dealer probally unplugged it.)

    So, I hope yall can help me here, because I miss using he remote.

    2000 blazer LS 4x4 :confuse:
  • rushfan1rushfan1 Member Posts: 2
    Hey Folks! I have a 1999 Blazer and am wanting to replace the OEM speakers. I can easily get the front and rear door speakers, however when I'm looking at the crutchfield site, it doesn't show anything for the dash speakers. I belive they are 4x6 but all of the 4x6 speakers they have shows the they don't fit my vehicle. Any reason why? Has anyone replace all 6 of thier speakers and if so what with? I'm also interested in replacing the head unit with maybe a power amp and a sub. I'd be interested in what folks have done. I'm not going to spend a bunch of money, not interested in showing or anything, just a good system.

    Thanks for any help and suggestions.
  • rushfan1rushfan1 Member Posts: 2
    Hey 20blazer00 ,

    I just had to buy a remote last weekend, and have the same problem, I can't get it to program. The only thing I can figure is that the remote I bought changes "codes"each time it's pressed (to keep other remotes from opening my door) it's a security feature of my opener. I think the blazer is not capable of this feature, therefore isn't compatible. Just a guess on my part though. I just go ahead and use the remote clipped to my visor.

    p.s. the last remote I had programmed just fine and I had been using the overhead button for the last 5 years! I lost the remote because I never used it..
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Well, not an "overdrive bearing" per se, but there is a sun gear that will shut things down if it breaks. Did this come on suddenly, or were there earlier symptoms?
  • 20blazer0020blazer00 Member Posts: 28
    +This may be too late but just read this post. As I work for a car rental comp. We
    see this all the time. The main 2 reasons this happens is the cable that drives the door is loose, broken, or unattached. 2nd, is the control head itself.
  • johnss10johnss10 Member Posts: 46
    yes, there is a procedure to enter programming mode, using just the ignition switch. I used it to reprogram the 2 used remotes I bought off the net, I won't be able to look for it until the weekend. If I find it I'll let you know,
  • johnss10johnss10 Member Posts: 46
    The dash speakers are tiny. like 2 inches, with a big bracket. If you look on ebay for used blazer speakers, you'll probably find a picture. I haven't found any aftermarket speakers that will fit.
  • impalacabimpalacab Member Posts: 11
    Hi, This is the procedure to program the remote:
    1. Close all vehicle doors.
    2. Insert the key into the ignition.
    3. Hold down the power UNLOCK button on the driver’s door panel-continue to hold down until instructed
    to release in step 9.
    4. Perform steps 5 through 8 in fairly rapid succession.
    5. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position (as far as you can go without starting the engine).
    6. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
    7. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
    8. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
    9. Release the power unlock button on the door panel. The vehicle will lock and unlock the doors automatically.
    10. Hold down the LOCK and UNLOCK buttons on the transmitter simultaneously until the door locks and unlocks.
    This step may take up to 30 seconds.
    11. Repeat step 10 NOW for each additional transmitter (including any existing transmitters).
    12. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position in order to exit the transmitter programming mode.
    I have done it to get more than one transmitter to my Blazer, and it works.
    Good luck, Magnus, Sweden.
  • impalacabimpalacab Member Posts: 11
    I can't get the front axle to engage when changing into 4wd. I have checked the relays, they work. The switch work, and when pressing 4HI when driving, you can feel it engage. 4LO changes the transmission into low gear, but still not 4wd. When raising the vehicle and go to 4wd, the drive shaft to the front axle start to rotate as well. The vacuum actuator under the battery tray works and pulls the wire real strong. But the front wheels still wont rotate. I think the problem must be inside the front axle!? Do anyone have any suggestions? Please help, I need the 4wd when the snow start to fall.
    1998 Blazer LT
  • 20blazer0020blazer00 Member Posts: 28
    Ok, after some digging, and twisting arms and pulling hair, I finally got told the deal as to why my new remote wouldnt program. As it turns out, it does have to do with the after-market alarm. Its a GM after market alarm, and the old remote was for it.
    But, now for the bad part, that remote and its replacement are no longer made.
    It took a Chevy Parts man 4 hours to figure everything out. I went to places where alarms are sold and put in. About 15 of them and it was like, they just stared at me like I had something wrong with me. Came home and searched online remote outlets like keylessride and the like and still no luck. One gu told me I could just search for the FCC number instead of the P/N. But would that work? Find one that ues the same freq range?
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Did the vehicle originally have remote keyless entry installed at the factory? Look on the white tag in the glove box for the code AU0.

    AU0 : LOCK CONTROL, REMOTE ENTRY – KEYLESS ENTRY (DOMESTIC)

    If the vehicle had this installed at the factory, the OEM key fob for that year model would work.

    I even took my 2002 which did not have RKE originally, installed the receiver (harness is already there, just plugs in above the parking brake), ordered a couple of fobs, had the dealer "tell" the body control module that the RKE was there, programmed the fobs, and voila, everything works perfectly.
  • 20blazer0020blazer00 Member Posts: 28
    no, It didnt come with one. Thats why it has what they call a dealer installed alarm or remote system. There for It has a remote that they put with it. ANd since I didnt have it put in, it was in when I bought it, I have no Idea which dealer did. So, Im out of luck there.I guess I could go to a dealer and get another put in to replace this one. Or just get a viper or another brand put in.
    I did hear about buying the chip and box to have remote working, but, how much is it and how hard is it to install?
  • sealteam8sealteam8 Member Posts: 11
    The 02 sensor has nothing to do with the heater. Either the thermostat doesnt work or it could be low on antifreeze. As well as the heater core might be cracked. ANy smell of antifreeze in the cab of the truck? If not check the thermostat...
  • brian352chevybrian352chevy Member Posts: 1
    my parking brake release is broken on my 1998 4 door chevy blazer.the parking break is stuck on any idea on how to take it off with out the release handle
  • sealteam8sealteam8 Member Posts: 11
    You can try to crawl under the truck and pull on the cable by hand really hard to get it to release. But BE CAREFULL WEAR SOME GLOVES! It will be tight, if that doesnt work try to get it to release from under the dash i know the release is broken but u might be able to put a screw driver in there and pop it loose as well
  • pvanamanpvanaman Member Posts: 3
    95 Blazer, when trying to put it in 4 hi or lo, lights flicker and it stays in 2 wheel drive, also no heat or a/c coming from the 4 vents above the radio. The reason: PCV valve was bad. Obviously, the 4 wheel drive and the heat-a/c get their vacuum source from the PCV valve, While I was tracing the vacuum lines I accidently pulled the PVC valve from the valve cover. I noticed it wasn't rattling when I shook it so I replaced it ($5) and now everything works!
  • larryylarryy Member Posts: 1
    Another time saver is run a light from your ground on the battery and other end to a ground,,light should turn on if short. If on, go to fuse box and pull one fuse at a time and replace. Do this until the light goes out,,this will at least isolate the problem.
  • zetrozetro Member Posts: 1
    My blazer starts and stalls alot when the dash lights come on before starting it starts up just fine now the lights don't come on just the radio and dome light ot turns over but never cranks up just replaced the battery it started for about an hour then the dash lights went out and nothing. I need some help!!!
  • sierraredsierrared Member Posts: 5
    My 2001 GMC Jimmy SLE has cruise control and I thought there was a light on the instrument panel that lit up when cruise control was on. There is one on my 2004 Sierra. But, either the light is burned out, or there isn't one. I can't find it in the owner's manual. Does anyone know if there is supposed to be a light? :confuse:
  • johnss10johnss10 Member Posts: 46
    No Light.
  • sierraredsierrared Member Posts: 5
    Thanks for the quick reply. Now I can quit looking for what isn't there! :)
  • olddaveolddave Member Posts: 21
    I purchased my 1998 Jimmy 4X4 in May this year. When I got it, I only received ONE igntion key for it. I had 2 more keys cut immediately to have some spares. But it had automatic door locks and power windows, etc., so I thought it might have been set up for keyless entry. Sure enough, I found on this forum the info that if it had an "AU0" build code on the glove box door, it should be all set for RKE. I found the AU0 code, and then I found your instructions of how to program the RKE fob. So I ordered 2 new fobs from gmpartsdirect.com for about $40 each, and by using your procedure, "SHAZAMM", I now have keyless entry for my Jimmy withourt having to pay a hunk of money to a GM dealer to make it work.
    So you get a big ATTABOY from me!!!
  • jennydelviscojennydelvisco Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Blazer I got for free from my mother in law. Sounds great, except it's ruining my life. The anti theft system works sometimes and sometimes it doesn't. It has a mind of it's own. I would recommend taking it out all together. Mine is a little bit newer than yours. The anti theft system is probably an upgrade compared to your old anti theft system and it still gives me problems. I think they all should be discontinued. Take it out and just get a club.
  • lacatlacat Member Posts: 1
    I don't believe this is happen to my 95 Blazer,cost me a motor and new oil cooler,garage said they could not leave it off or change it out.ended up paying over 2000,to get everything fixed they should recall.
  • buzzhbuzzh Member Posts: 3
    Hi,
    I've got a 1998 GMC Jimmy with 260000 miles. Car has been nonstop. Minor repairs. Been using Amzoil for a couple of years.
    Wife went to start and it suddenlly stopped with quite a jar.
    After that it would crank but backfire through intake.
    I set #1 at TDC and distributor was facing #4
    Pulled distributor and gear is in tack.
    I have pulled the timing chain cover and all is well there. Marks line up on crank gear and cam gear. So I'm pulling motor. But was hopefull someone might have experienced this. Could cam gear have slipped or is it machined to cam?
    Can distributor have enough lateral travel that cam and distributor shaft would disengage?
    Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Buzz
  • quantumtouchflquantumtouchfl Member Posts: 35
    Buzz,

    Don't pull the engine... I had a similar experience with a Chevy V8... Just as the engine started to crank... it stopped with quite a jar... just like you described. Any further attempts to start at that time... and the engine acted like it was locked up. I let it sit for a couple of hours... then it started... but had a lifter noise in #8. I noticed that the plug wire had come loose... but was still on the plug. The engine eventually started again... but took half a tank of gas before the lifter quieted down.

    I have been using Amsoil since 1978... I use it in my 96 Blazer... and my 81 Grand Prix.

    Suggestions: Pull all the plugs... see if the engine will crank... if so... see if any fuel comes out of any of the cylinders... particularly 5 or 6. If so... the most likely cause is a leaking fuel regulator inside the plentum.

    Let me know what happens...

    TJ
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