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I am embarrassed to say I could not trace down the spark plugs. I need someone to tell me where they are located at on the engine. Also the best way of pulling each of them.
It is the 4.3L, V6.
Thank you
Be sure and put platinum tip plugs back in. They will last a good 75K miles or more. Also be sure to change the rotor and cap. The rotors will cook off twice as fast as the plugs. Easy to change, and should be done every 50K at least.
I am looking on how to improve the gas mileage and performance. Are there other things we can do ourselves to the engine?
Any additives that actually work out there as well?
Use a premimum NAPA distributor cap with brass electrodes. The AC Delco distributor cap is equipped with aluminum electrodes which will oxidize and fill the cap with alumium oxide dust which will cause spark scatter, especially with the factory high voltage electronic ignition systems.
I am new to the forums and as such don't have much of an idea how it works. I recently bought a 95 GMC Jimmy and have noticed that the truck seems to dart to the left of right when I am driving. There is also quite a bit of play in the steering wheel. I have also noticed that the truck seems to lean to the passenger front side when turn sharp corners. I am wondering if anyone would have a general idea of what could be causing this problem. The truck is in mint condition other than having 314,000 km, but the engine and transmission were re-built at around 170,000 km. I will be taking it into a shop soon, but i don't want to get ripped off, so I though I would ask here first. Thanks, in advance, for your time and help.
If this is OK, get the Haynes or Chilton manual (I have both) to see how the shifter motor is attached.
There is no such thing as an "overdrive bearing" in an engine.
I had to buy a new remote the other day. But as of yet, havent gotten it to work.I called several Chevy dealers an found out that the one I bought was the only one for my year blazer. So, that is not a problem. IS there a set way to get the camputer to learn the new one,besides using a hand comp plugged in.?
I did find out that someone changed the remote before and the old one I had was never for the blazer( but they did get it to work)
The same dumb azz had an aftermarket alarm put into. (but this doesnt work and hasnt since I got it. ( dealer probally unplugged it.)
So, I hope yall can help me here, because I miss using he remote.
2000 blazer LS 4x4 :confuse:
Thanks for any help and suggestions.
I just had to buy a remote last weekend, and have the same problem, I can't get it to program. The only thing I can figure is that the remote I bought changes "codes"each time it's pressed (to keep other remotes from opening my door) it's a security feature of my opener. I think the blazer is not capable of this feature, therefore isn't compatible. Just a guess on my part though. I just go ahead and use the remote clipped to my visor.
p.s. the last remote I had programmed just fine and I had been using the overhead button for the last 5 years! I lost the remote because I never used it..
see this all the time. The main 2 reasons this happens is the cable that drives the door is loose, broken, or unattached. 2nd, is the control head itself.
1. Close all vehicle doors.
2. Insert the key into the ignition.
3. Hold down the power UNLOCK button on the driver’s door panel-continue to hold down until instructed
to release in step 9.
4. Perform steps 5 through 8 in fairly rapid succession.
5. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position (as far as you can go without starting the engine).
6. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
7. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
8. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
9. Release the power unlock button on the door panel. The vehicle will lock and unlock the doors automatically.
10. Hold down the LOCK and UNLOCK buttons on the transmitter simultaneously until the door locks and unlocks.
This step may take up to 30 seconds.
11. Repeat step 10 NOW for each additional transmitter (including any existing transmitters).
12. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position in order to exit the transmitter programming mode.
I have done it to get more than one transmitter to my Blazer, and it works.
Good luck, Magnus, Sweden.
1998 Blazer LT
But, now for the bad part, that remote and its replacement are no longer made.
It took a Chevy Parts man 4 hours to figure everything out. I went to places where alarms are sold and put in. About 15 of them and it was like, they just stared at me like I had something wrong with me. Came home and searched online remote outlets like keylessride and the like and still no luck. One gu told me I could just search for the FCC number instead of the P/N. But would that work? Find one that ues the same freq range?
AU0 : LOCK CONTROL, REMOTE ENTRY – KEYLESS ENTRY (DOMESTIC)
If the vehicle had this installed at the factory, the OEM key fob for that year model would work.
I even took my 2002 which did not have RKE originally, installed the receiver (harness is already there, just plugs in above the parking brake), ordered a couple of fobs, had the dealer "tell" the body control module that the RKE was there, programmed the fobs, and voila, everything works perfectly.
I did hear about buying the chip and box to have remote working, but, how much is it and how hard is it to install?
So you get a big ATTABOY from me!!!
I've got a 1998 GMC Jimmy with 260000 miles. Car has been nonstop. Minor repairs. Been using Amzoil for a couple of years.
Wife went to start and it suddenlly stopped with quite a jar.
After that it would crank but backfire through intake.
I set #1 at TDC and distributor was facing #4
Pulled distributor and gear is in tack.
I have pulled the timing chain cover and all is well there. Marks line up on crank gear and cam gear. So I'm pulling motor. But was hopefull someone might have experienced this. Could cam gear have slipped or is it machined to cam?
Can distributor have enough lateral travel that cam and distributor shaft would disengage?
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Buzz
Don't pull the engine... I had a similar experience with a Chevy V8... Just as the engine started to crank... it stopped with quite a jar... just like you described. Any further attempts to start at that time... and the engine acted like it was locked up. I let it sit for a couple of hours... then it started... but had a lifter noise in #8. I noticed that the plug wire had come loose... but was still on the plug. The engine eventually started again... but took half a tank of gas before the lifter quieted down.
I have been using Amsoil since 1978... I use it in my 96 Blazer... and my 81 Grand Prix.
Suggestions: Pull all the plugs... see if the engine will crank... if so... see if any fuel comes out of any of the cylinders... particularly 5 or 6. If so... the most likely cause is a leaking fuel regulator inside the plentum.
Let me know what happens...
TJ