Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

1626365676872

Comments

  • buzzhbuzzh Member Posts: 3
    Thanks TJ, I'll take a look.
    I've negelected Jimmy far to long. Pulled the radiator and the lower half was clogged. I'll pull the accessory brackets and pull plugs, it needs a tune up something bad. l just want it last till next summer when we'll buy something newer.
    Thanks for the advice and I'll post what I find, sometime this week.
    Buzz
  • quantumtouchflquantumtouchfl Member Posts: 35
    OK... good luck... I am in the Tampa Bay area in Florida... Looking to share experiences I have had with my 96 Blazer. I have kept up maintenance... all synthetic lubricants including grease.

    The transmission went down at the 162,000 mile mark... 3-4 gear clutch pack finally went. I purchased vehicle with 81,000 miles in 2004... flushed the transmission three times before it went down. I found a shop that had all kinds of test equipment... for testing the solenoids, valve body, etc... all the parts inside so that they knew everything was working before the put anything back in the tranny. They also insisted that the transmission be filled with Synthetic ATF... I had no problem with that... as I had never had the opportunity to use the Amsoil ATF. Trans runs about 50 degrees cooler.

    I currently have 182,000 miles... about two years ago I wanted to put a dist cap on with brass contacts. I order my wires, cap and rotors from Jacobs Electronics. The cap and rotor I orderd two years ago... turned out to have aluminum contacts when I opened it this last June. I did not change it right away... because I had just changed out the cap, rotor, and wires with AC Delco parts... I should have done so right away. Anyway... about six months ago I called around looking for a cap with brass contacts... AutoZone and Advanced Auto gave me a price of $65.00... too rich for me... so I just put it on the back burner. I checked again two weeks ago... Neither store carries them... so I ended up at NAPA... $41.00... I will be buying another dist cap next mount to keep on the shelf... my point is... the brass contacts made a big difference in idle and performance... still getting numbers on miles per gallon... but before I did the change... I was getting 20-21 MPG.

    Take care,

    TJ
  • quantumtouchflquantumtouchfl Member Posts: 35
    Does anyone have a diagram that shows the wiring harness to the shifter... plug has about six wires... locks the shifter when in park... grey is instrument lights... for the selector window... black is usually ground... I need to know what the other four are... one is pink... one is yellow... one is purple... if I remember correctly.

    Thank you,

    TJ
  • pilot1122pilot1122 Member Posts: 2
    Every time I'm towing a load ( tent trailer or utility trailer ) with moderate loads, going up hills causes the engine to misfire and lose power. Eventually, the check engine lights comes on to indicate P300 ( misfire undetermined ). What is the first course of action to take except an expensive tune up?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    An expensive tune up! :P

    Misfire under load is almost always an ignition problem. You could buy spark plugs and try that. I don't recall if your year/model uses coil packs or actual distributor cap and wires, but if the latter you could replace those, too.
  • johnss10johnss10 Member Posts: 46
    First, be sure the #1 cylinder is on the compression stroke at TDC. If so, and the dist is pointing to #4, there has to be a break in the valve train. First thing to check is that the timimg marks still line up on the timing gears, cuz it sounds like the thiming chain has jumped teeth. If timing gears/chain are good, and distributor is good, then must be camshaft related, but I've never heard of this actually happening, it's usually the chain/gears.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Pull the cap off the distributor and see if it turns when the engine is cranked. At 260,000 miles, you may have snapped a camshaft. Not common, but at those kind of miles you never know.
  • jpmccrjpmccr Member Posts: 31
    Here's the poop: 2001 Blazer LT, 122,000 miles. Had the fuel pump replaced (11/25) and the fuel pump relay was checked (same time) and it works fine. Ok,I have driven it daily since the pump was replaced. Drove it to work and home on Tuesday. Took the wife's car to my Mom's Wednesday morning and got home Saturday. Got in it this morning (Monday) and low and behold it WILL NOT start. It sat for five days. It rained all day Sunday. I popped the hood and it looked like everything was covered with moisture to include the distributor cap. Turns over but won't catch. I hear the pump prime up but it will not catch. My wife tried it this afternon (sat for about 4 hours).I have absolutley no idea what is wrong or where to look. I am so over workng on this thing, I can't stand it!!!!
    :mad:

    PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    :cry:
  • buzzhbuzzh Member Posts: 3
    Stup[id me,
    Being an old school 'wrench' I was accustomed to a normal distributor cap.
    I didn't realize that the actual contact for #4 was opposite from the #4 wire.
    I pulled the timing chain cover off and all was well. So I pulled the accessories off and cleaned everything.
    Bought all new tune up parts, plugs, wires, cap, rotor,
    Still no start and I hear that dreaded sucking sound coming out of the intake like a bad valve. Plus the backfire through the intake.
    So we're looking for another rig. I want another Blazer, but she wants a frickin' Pontiac Vibe......................:(
    Thanks for the replies. But think it'll sit till next summer. Thinking about a 350 CI for it. Be a long term project a real sleeper.
    Buzz
  • bladams13bladams13 Member Posts: 2
    i have a 96 chevy blazer that i recently had a new engine put in with 110k on the motor. it was sitting for about 5 months beofre the new engine was put in and driven again. when i got it back i put it into nuetral and put it into 4 hi and when i put it back into drive i went forward and every quarter turn of the front tires spinning it would make a loud clunking noise like something was grinding in the drivetrain. im not sure if its the front differential axles or something ive heard about the acuator?? any information and help is appreciated.
  • johnss10johnss10 Member Posts: 46
    Boy, I understand the frustration. All I can say is everytime I've had those symptoms (several), it's been the timing chain/gears.

    I'm working on the same idea of the engine swap for my S10 pickup, not my Blazer. should be a lot of fun.
  • bladams13bladams13 Member Posts: 2
    ya might be that but it drives perfect in 2hi only makes the clunking noie in 4wd. just tried it yesterday and it did it again but only when i turn the wheel or accelerate
  • jpmccrjpmccr Member Posts: 31
    Problem solved: gummed up fuel filter. $12.62 later and it runs fine.
  • cobrabascobrabas Member Posts: 1
    I just did the lower intake on my 99 blazer. put it all back together and fired it up. I fired up and i shut it down quickly. Went an ate dinner and returned to move it onto ramps to change oil before i test drove it and no it wont start. It cranks and sputters but wont kick on. Plugs are wet, i dropped the dristributer right back into place and my marks matched. dont know what to do or where to start. :mad:
  • jpmccrjpmccr Member Posts: 31
    Last starting issue was also due to a really bad, messed distributor cap and rotor. Replaced and she runs fine.
  • auto9999auto9999 Member Posts: 86
    Hi all,

    I just wanted to share my recent experience. My 18-year old son crashed my 2000 Blazer. I had to pay more than $3,000 to fix it but the pain was more than the one-time expenditure. My Blazer now has subtle vibration on the steering wheel at acceleration and coasting, and the vibration is accompanied by the loud road noise. I think that the collision caused a misalignment of axles.

    I really miss the smooth, quiet, silky ride of my Blazer. Now my Blazer is driving like a rough, noisy truck. I bought it new in 2000 and it has 83,000 miles on it.

    Just a thought for everyone: if you test drive a used car or SUV, pay attention to any roughness of ride on accelaration and coasting. If you feel any roughness or excessive road noise, it may be because of misalignment of axles from an accident.
  • sealteam8sealteam8 Member Posts: 11
    It will likley be the front wheel bearings.. does it have a humming noise to it at all when u turn the wheel one way or the other? if so let me know and i can help narrow down which bearing it is.
  • auto9999auto9999 Member Posts: 86
    Hi Sealteam8,

    Thank you for your kind words. I will test it and let you know as soon as possible.
  • tenpinarmtenpinarm Member Posts: 8
    I just replaced my 4WD transmission module. I haven't been using 4WD for 2 yrs, but now I can't turn fully easily. If I'm going slowly It acts like I'm applying the brake.Any idea's?
    Doug
  • auto9999auto9999 Member Posts: 86
    Hi Sealteam8,

    I tried and listened to the sound from the front end and feel the vibration on the steering wheel while the vehicle was making right and left turns and moving straight. It sounded like those problems were significantly reduced during the turn, both right and left, even though the weight was on the front wheels. I do not seem to hear humming noise during the turns. In the meantime, the noise and vibration seemed to exist whenever the vehicle was moving and they increased and decreased as the speed went up and down on the straight path and during the turns.

    Do you have any ideas?

    Do you think the noise and vibration could be from over-inflated tires? The body shop seems to have kindly cleaned and inflated the tires for me.

    I will try and hear the noise and feel the vibration when the vehicle is driving on the very smooth road surface, where the tire noise is expected to be minimum. Thank you again for your help. I will post my message again.
  • JeffsLady2008JeffsLady2008 Member Posts: 1
    Ok...my GMC is parked due to expired tags and engine problems. I have a full tank of gas and want to siphon the gas out to put in my van but there is apparently a screen on the tank..is there a way to get the gas out WITHOUT having to drop the tank?? there is skid plate over my fuel tank so it would be a big pain in the keester.....and my fiancee is sick and cant help me do it right now...so i would be emptying the tank.
  • jpmccrjpmccr Member Posts: 31
    2001 Blazer with 122,567 miles. Coming home I got the 0446 code. What is it and where do I need to look and/or need to replace. Solenoid, canister??? Never replaced those so I am not sure where they are. Just replaced distributor cap and rotor two weeks ago. Had it inspected at our local MVC and they tested the gas cap and it passed. Replaced fuel pump and filter two months ago. It seems that when it rains, the SES light pops up. Once cleared it stays gone. Would appreciate all/any advice/help. Thanks. . . . . .
  • a90myersa90myers Member Posts: 9
    I have a 2002 Chevy Trailblazer with 64000 on the vechicle. Yesterday the driving lights did not come on. Are there seperate bulbs for the driving lights? I have low and high beams for the regular headlights.
  • 33duece3333duece33 Member Posts: 1
    my 98 blazer loses power put in neutral turn off restart has power again for minute
    has new fuel pump,fuel filter,egr,maf, dist. cap,rotor,plugs, wires,thought maybe exhaust drop converter still the same
  • sealteam8sealteam8 Member Posts: 11
    It might be the converter or muffler is plugged up. it could also be the fuel pressure regulator.
  • Chris1989Chris1989 Member Posts: 1
    My son just had his dash board cluster replaced on his 1989 Jimmy and a week or so later, his steering wheel started getting giggly and eventually (over the course of a day or so) would flop around like a dying fish and no longer turn the front wheels. Had wires not been connected to it, it literally would have fallen off. We towed it back to the place that replaced the dash board cluster and they claim they never touched the steering column, and that the Jimmy is known for steering column issues like this. Is he getting screwed with here or is it normal to be able to replace a dash board cluster without touching the steering column. And if so, what would cause the internal components of a steering column to fall apart on it's own? :confuse:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    No, you don't have to touch the steering column to replace the dash cluster on this truck.
  • brycetbsbrycetbs Member Posts: 1
    over the past few months my 99 jimmy (4.3L) has had problems starting when it was wet or damp outside. and now over the past few days it has been extremely cold and the car acts like that battery is dead. when i go to start it, the key turns, the starter clicks and then everything is dead, so i pop the hood and the light under the hood is out. After waiting a few seconds the light comes back on, until trying to start the car again, the power leaves again. So I jumped it today and got it running and had the auto parts store do a battery,alternator,starter and load test and it passed without any problems...does any body have any idea what the problem could be, all i can think of is that the battery may have acquired a bad cell, unless this issue is an offspring from the wet condition issue.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I would thoroughly clean the battery cables and check the battery cable ground and positive connections on the other end as well--the chassis and starter.
  • johnss10johnss10 Member Posts: 46
    I think your battery is Dying, but I would certainly clean and tighten all the connections, just to be sure. There isn't any computer stuff between the key and the starter, just old fashioned wire and electrons. If you have a test light or Multimeter, see what they show during the start process. I once had a bolt that was too long for the battery, so It wouldn't tighten properly, and would act sort of like that. It really has to be a connection thing if the battery is really good.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Check the ground cable on the low side of the block. Just follow the large cable down from the battery and you will see it. Not too hard to get to.
  • wubby1wubby1 Member Posts: 1
    The brake lights on my 1997 Jimmy don't work. The lights work and the turn signals work. Also, how do you remove the hydraulic arm on the tailgate? Thanks
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    If everything on the back is working except the brake lights, check the brake light switch down on the brake pedal arm. Easy fix, and cheap, too.

    To remove the hydraulic cylinders, take a small flat blade and pop of the little flat c-clips at both ends of the unit. Watch your eyes, those things will fly when they come off!
  • adamg70adamg70 Member Posts: 1
    YOUR PROBABLY CORRECT,THE PROBLEM IS IN THE FRONT DIFF. LIFT THE VEHICLE,REMOVE THE HOUSING ON THE PASS. SIDE OF THE DIFF HOUSING WHERE THE SHIFT CABLE FROM THE VACUUM ACCUATOR IS ATTACHED. PULL IT OFF ABOUT ONE IINCH AND DETACH THE SHIFT CABLE FROM THE SHIFT FORK. NOW,WITH YOUR HAND, PULL THE SHIFT FORK OUT AS FAR AS YOU CAN. WHILE DOING THIS TURN THE FRONT DRIVE SHAFT[MAKE SURE THE VEHICLE IS IN 2WD SO TRANSFER CASE IS NOT ENGAGED] AND SEE IF THE FRONT PASS WHEEL TURNS. IF IT DOES TURN TOUR SHIFT CABLE COULD BE BAD ALONG WITH THE POSSIBILITY OF A WEAK DIAPHRAM IN THE ACCUATOR ITSELF. IF YOU GET A WEAK TURN OR A RATCHETTING SOUND IT PROBABLY IS ONE OF THE FOLLOWING. BAD SNAP RING THAT HOLDS ACCUATING GEAR IN PLACE--BAD OR WORN GEAR--BAD OR WORN THRUST WASHERS. COST TO PURCHASE PARTS TO REPLACE ALL IS AROUND $300 FROM A CHEVY DEALER. HOPE THIS HELPS. I AM A NEW MEMBER OR I WOULD OF ANSWERED A LOT SOONER.
  • impalacabimpalacab Member Posts: 11
    Hi, thanks for your answer. I've suspected that it would be something like that, but I was hoping to get it confirmed before I disassemblied it, so your answer is appreciated. I have bought a new actuator just in case, but the old one seems to pull real hard. I have lifted the vehicle, started, put it in D, in 2HI, 4HI, and 4LO, but I can't hear any abnormal sounds in the front axle. I will remove the housing as soon as it gets a little warmer here. It will probably cost a bit more than $300 if there's some other problem in the gear, I live in Sweden :) . Thanks.
  • penguintcpenguintc Member Posts: 1
    I know your message is old, but I alos have 97 Blazer with oxygen sensor problems. Are there 3 sensors? Ans were they located where your message said?
    And did you change them? If so, was it a hard project? Any help would be great
  • rfederkeilrfederkeil Member Posts: 2
    my security light is comming on, the truck runs like crap when it is on, hooked a snap on scan tool up to the truck for a no start problem and when ever you start the truck it looses connection, does anyone have any advice?? thank you for your time and advice
    :sick:
  • s10mojos10mojo Member Posts: 2
    Hi this is my first time here. I had a simple question. I have chance to buy a 1993 s10 Blazer 4x4. It only has 63000 miles on it. I was told it has fuel problems or bad fuel pump. Is there any major costly repairs involving full system in the 93s? Is there easy test to determine if its pump. Before i buy it. I figured for 700 bucks i cant loose either way. The main reason i was buying it was for parts for my 91 s10 that was in a wreck. But i may keep the 93. Thanks this is a real cool sight.Have A good night all.
  • auto9999auto9999 Member Posts: 86
    I am thinking of replacing the front turn signal units. My body shop installed the ones without fog lamps for my 2000 Blazer 4WD trailblazer trim. My vehicle was originally equipped with the fog lamps.

    Do you have to remove the bumber, or can you replace them from under the vehicle?
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Well, the fuel pump is inside the fuel tank. Quick way to tell if it is totally dead is to turn the key to on, not start, and see if you hear a buzz/hum come from the gas tank. This will tell you if it is getting power. Then, a pressure test will tell you if the pump is working to spec. Any shop should be able to check this for you. If those are both good, there could be a problem in the "spider" that feeds the fuel injection. At this point, you are probably approaching the purchase price, but if this vehicle is in otherwise good shape, with 63K miles on it, there are still a lot of valuable parts to work with! Salvage parts have gotten very pricey, so weigh your alternatives.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    I am a bit confused with your question. To change the turnsignal bulbs, the grill snaps off and you can access both sides. If you are talking fog/driving lights, they are accessable from underneath.
  • auto9999auto9999 Member Posts: 86
    Hi jlflemmons,

    Thank you for your message.

    I am thinking of taking out the entire turn signal assembly - about 1.5 feet wide, a few inches tall, a few inches deep - with the orange plastic front plate equipped with the turn signal only. Then I would install a replacement assembly with both the turn light and the fog lamp.

    image example: http://ketech-llc.amazonwebstore.com/shared/viewProductImage.html?http://ecx.ima- - - ges-amazon.com/images/I/41X6Z1Jxc-L.jpg

    The assembly seems to be being fixed to the bumper unit by screws but I do not see the screws from in the engine room or from under the bumper.

    The body shop knowingly installed the wrong assemblies - he said that he found a used set of parts without the fog lamp at a discount price. I benefited from the pricing, so I felt I would not ask the body shop to redo the job.

    I would appreciate if you could tell me how to remove the turn signal assembly.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Well, as I type this I am sitting in my garage with the assembly sitting next to me. The grill and turnsignal assembly is all one piece and is held in by snap clips. Open the hood and pull on the top of the grill gently and the top snaps will come out. Pull on the ends of the turnsignals and those snaps will come out. Unscrew the turn signal bulbs and the whole assembly is right there in your hands.
  • auto9999auto9999 Member Posts: 86
    Hi jlflemmons;

    Thank you for your message. Your information based on your real experience is the most valuable. I will try and replace the assemblies on my Blazer.
  • pvanmanpvanman Member Posts: 10
    ok here;s a new one, I replaced the flashers on my 95 s-10 Blazer, now the gear shift indicator light flashes when I put on the turn signals, (column shifter) I bought and installed another new flasher thinking the first new flasher was bad, but the same thing happens with the second new flasher. The gear shift indicator wasn't flashing before with the old flasher installed.
    Any ideas?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    cheap parts maybe? wrong part?

    Did someone hand you this or did you look it up on a chart from a chain store or was this a dealer item?

    What I'm driving at is that if you went to a chain store, you might try something a notch up, like NAPA.
  • pvanmanpvanman Member Posts: 10
    Mr. Shiftright, took your advice, bought another flasher this time at NAPA, and, bingo! Turn signals work and the shifter light is back to working normally. The place I bought the original flasher the guy at the counter didn't speak English too well and I think we had a breakdown in communication. Lesson learned.

    Thanks again for your advice.
  • chevyride22chevyride22 Member Posts: 10
    What is the easiest and best way to remove a starter motor from a 1995 Chevy Blazer 4WD 6 cylinder? Should I remove the connections first? I tried removing the connections from the starter by going through the wheel well.
    I also tried dropping the starter to get to the connections, but could not get the starter to come out. Do I need to take the flywheel cover off, or should I be able to get the starter out without removing the cover? The flywheel cover bolts are very tight (cannot loosen even with air tools). Please advise on how to take starter motor out. Thanks.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    * Place the vehicle on a hoist.
    Remove:

    1. Negative battery cable.
    2. Brush end mounting bracket (if equipped).
    3. Solenoid wiring.

    o Raise the vehicle.
    Remove:
    4. Skid plate (if equipped).
    5. Bolts and the two brackets holding the brake pipe to the crossmember.
    6. Crossmember (three bolts on each side).
    7. Bracket holding the transmission fluid cooler lines to the flywheel housing, brace rod to the flywheel housing, and/or the lower flywheel housing if necessary.
    8. Two bolts holding the starter to the engine.
    9. Starter and the shim (if equipped).

    Install

    1. Starter and shims in their original locations (if equipped) to the engine with bolts.

    Tighten

    * Starter mounting bolts to 43 Nm (32 lbs. ft.) .

    2. Lower flywheel cover (if removed).
    3. Transmission lines bracket to the housing (if equipped).
    4. Brace rod to the housing (if equipped).
    5. Crossmember to the frame end with six bolts.
    6. Two brake line brackets to the crossmember with bolts.
    7. Skid plate (it equipped).
    8. Solenoid wiring
    9. Brush end brace and wiring (if equipped).

    Tighten

    * Brush end brace nuts to 11 Nm (97 lbs. in.) .

    10. Wires to the solenoid terminals.
    11. Negative battery cable.
  • demonhidedemonhide Member Posts: 1
    I read a lot about fuel gauge bouncing, some say possible grounding issues on sending unit. The bouncing needle works fine till half tank then stays there. When i first start the truck it will slowly go to roughly the right spot then bounce up and down. Once I start moving it goes to half a tank and stay there. The whole thing is kind of annoying at best, but can be dealt with. I guess I should state this is a 99 Jimmy with about 130k miles. I have nearly replaced the entire front end ( ball joints, a frame, bearings and hub) Last thing I had to replace was muffler system to cold power loss. But the most important thing I want to fix is the high speed power hiccups. I do 150 miles a day on interstate. Low speeds this vechile is very powerful, But at 70 mph, I am getting this random hesitation or power hiccup. It is rather hard to explain as it is hard to realize unless you push the truck, but if you push it to far it will just shift down and go like a bat of hell. Any ideas what i can look at? Thanks in advance
Sign In or Register to comment.