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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • 20blazer0020blazer00 Member Posts: 28
    I have a question for you all. I have just noticed that my blazer leans on the driver's side( or its somehow lower on that side). Now is this common for blazers? I just happened to look at the parking lot at work which is flat and level, but my blazer was sloping on the drivers' side.

    2000 Blazer LS 4x4
  • johnss10johnss10 Member Posts: 46
    This is not uncommon in 4X4's they use torsion bars in the front suspension, since the front drive axle's go through where the coil springs would be. There is a ride height setting procedure in the Haynes or Chilton repair manual. Also, a front end shup will do this as part of the alignment. The alignment may well be out as well, so probably best to take it to an independent, locally-owned shop.
  • johnss10johnss10 Member Posts: 46
    These two things might be related. The high speed miss could be a weak fuel pump or clogged fuel filter. Cheapest/easiest is the fuel filter.

    The gauge is either a poor connection, or more likely a worn float assembly. The float assembly and fuel pump come together for these vehicles, so replacing the fuel pump/fuel sender may fix both problems. About $130 for the parts. I'd check with Rock Auto on the net first, ususlly have best prices.
  • victor60victor60 Member Posts: 1
    My 96 GMC Jimmy keeps blowing the #9 fuse. which control the fuel pump, fuel control relay sensor, the ecm. All of these have been changed and yet it still blows the fuse. Stopping the engine from running. After they were changed it started but when i put it in reverse it shut off. And blow it again. Now when i put the key in the position it blows the fuse. :cry:
  • 20blazer0020blazer00 Member Posts: 28
    To me that sounds as if you either have a short or a bare wire exposed.Maybe in the fuel system, like between the tank and body. I'd guess that when you put it in gear it viberates and shorts out or maybe just cranking it causes enough to short the wire(s) out. I'd have to start there, and run down the wires until you find it.
  • duntovduntov Member Posts: 133
    Whenever the fuel pump is replaced, it is recommended to replace the fuel pump wiring harness and the screem. The wiring harness and screen usually does not come with the fuel pump and must be purchased separately.
  • stewart_h25stewart_h25 Member Posts: 1
    My 99 2dr 4wd Jimmy makes a popping noise in the the front. It is happening more and more often. It gets much worse during wet conditions. I replaced the ball joints on both the driver and passenger side wheels within the past year. I put new brakes and rotors on less than 6 months ago. I cannot figure out what keeps making the noise. Can anyone give me any ideas?
  • duntovduntov Member Posts: 133
    Check the front wheel bearing/hub assemblies.Premium Timken bearing/hub assemblies cost about $160 a pair at auto parts stores but you can find cheap Chinese made bearing/hub assemblies for less on e-bay. The Chinese parts may be just as good as Timken but I would not use them.
  • 1986blazer1986blazer Member Posts: 6
    check your cv axles and u-joints
  • sealteam8sealteam8 Member Posts: 11
    You can check the sway bar end links in the front end as well! They go bad and make a popping or clunking sound
  • jimbob98jimbob98 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 98 Jimmy 4wd that was working basically fine. Suddenly, on way to work, 3rd gear stopped working. Shifts smooth through 1st & 2nd, but then acts like it shifts from 2nd to Neutral. Reverse works fine. I drained fluid (milk chocolate color) and magnet had abt 1/4" of sludge on it (not gritty at all, but only on magnet). Replaced filter, topped up fluid, no change. What is likely issue? I'm needing to get this back on the road w/ as few $$ as possible, willing to put my time into it. Do I get a rebuild kit for it? (Never rebuilt tranny, but did an engine).

    Thanks for your help.
  • kylecassadykylecassady Member Posts: 1
    I have replaced the spark plugs spark wires and battery every thing is hooked up right it turns over but doesn't start. can any one help?
  • johnss10johnss10 Member Posts: 46
    The 3/4 clutch pack is the notorious weak link in these transmissions. Yours are gone. These vehicles don't have any kind of a transmission temperature gauge, so it is hard to know that it is slipping and getting hot until it's too late. This transmission will require either replacement or complete rebuild, because the burned up clutches have spread grit throughout the entire trans, including the torque converter, which you will never get cleaned out.

    I know this is not what you were hoping for, but been there, done that. Design life is about 75,000 miles, anything beyond that you are living on borrowed time.

    There are several rebuild kits around and most have upgraded 3/4 clutch parts (Google). There are DVD videos available to take you through the rebuild process, and some Barnes and Noble stores or Amazon have books. Like you, I have never done one of these. I kept the old transmission to rebuild when I had a used one installed, so I will build it with the upgraded parts.

    Running in 4th is a large part of the problem, because the low engine RPM's don't turn the pump fast enough to build up real good pressure to hold the clutches engaged. That's why the recommendation is to to only tow in 3rd gear. I drive around town in 2nd, so the 3/4 clutches don't even get used part of the time.
  • quantumtouchflquantumtouchfl Member Posts: 35
    Thats about the size of it... my 96 Blazer got 160K miles before the 3-4 clutch pack burned up... no warning... just started as I was accelerating on the onramp to 275 in Tampa... engine RPMs screaming but going no where. Called the dealership the next day... they would not touch it because it had over 100K on it. I believe I got the high millege do to flushing the transmission myself at the dealership I worked at. I purchased the vehicle with 81K... was a lease vehicle to an A/C business. The dealership recommended a local trans rebuild shop... I checked them out... they had every piece of equipment for checking all internal parts of the transmission under operating conditions... before reusing in a rebuild... said it saved time knowing that everything worked before they put back into vehicle. I got a three year warrantee... if I used synthetic ATF. As I have been using Amsoil since 1978... I had no problem with that. They also upgraded the
    (3-4) 7 clutch (clutch pack)... to a 9 clutch (clutch pack)... Jeff said it would last longer. Those are the only two upgrades I have make. Transmission felt the same as before... very happy with their work. Price was about $2100.00

    TJ
  • auto9999auto9999 Member Posts: 86
    My 2000 Blazer 4wd Trailblazer trim 87,000 original miles has SES light steady on. The codes are P0171 and P0174. I removed the MAF sensor and cleaned it with MAF cleaner spray. I put the MAF sensor back. I restarted the car and the SES is still on.

    The next thing I want to check is vacuum and PCV hoses.

    Can anyone tell me exactly where they are? Can I inspect those hoses easily without removing any parts?
  • skiextreme2skiextreme2 Member Posts: 30
    Just a thought, but did you clear the codes after you cleaned the MAF sensor and reinstalled it?
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    I'll bet you a nickel you have a vacuum leak. Check the vacuum lines up by the brake booster. There is a large line coming from the intake manifold over to a check valve (small, about the diameter of a nickel). From there, it goes down to the vacuum resevoir in the fender, and down to a hard line. Change all three of the lines. I had these lines on both of my blazers go bad, one at 76K, the other at 84K.

    For the PCV hose, a little trick to save you some money. You have a hard plastic line with a straight vacuum line on one end, and a molded right angle hose on the other. For whatever reason, the parts houses around here don't carry that assembly, it is listed as a dealer item. $$$$$

    But they do carry the PCV hose assembly for the 5.7L V8 for about $5-6. The hard plastic portion is too long for the 4.3L. Simple, just buy the assembly for the 5.7L, but DON'T TRY TO PULL THE HOSES OFF! Instead, try to push them further onto the hard plastic. This will cause the hose to bulge out and break the glue seal holding them onto the hard plastic. Do the same thing on the original PCV assembly from your Blazer, then just put the new rubber pieces from the 5.7 onto the shorter hard plastic piece from your 4.3L. There you go, a perfectly good PCV vacuum hose assembly for a lot less money than what the dealer would charge!

    :)
  • auto9999auto9999 Member Posts: 86
    Hi skiextreme2 ,

    Thanks for your message. I did not clear the code, and that was what I was wondering about. I presumed that the code would renew itself... Do I have to clear the code to see if my cure worked?
  • auto9999auto9999 Member Posts: 86
    Hi jlflemmons,

    Thank you again for your kind message. I have read your message carefully and will print it out and do what you suggested.

    Again, thank you for your help based on your experience.
  • nlc1139nlc1139 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 99 blazer it starts fine but when i step down on the gas pedel a little bit hard it seems like it's fluding but when i let off of it and it ideals ok but i have to barly step on the gas to even go
  • auto9999auto9999 Member Posts: 86
    Hi everyone,

    Here is my update. My Blazer's SES light is turned off after I cleaned the MAF sensor with a sprayed a few days ago. I was planning to have the SES light cleared at Autozone today but when I started the engine the SES was no more lit. I did a lot of homework about the vacuum and PCV hoses and I will keep my research for the next time I need it.

    Thank you again for your help. Have a good Memorial Day weekend.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    If you turn your AC on and it will only blow out the heater/floor vents, the vacuum line has collapsed. But now you know what to look for!

    Have a great weekend
  • kifkif Member Posts: 1
    i have the same problem what did u come up with?
  • pkirwinpkirwin Member Posts: 1
    My 04 Blazer with the big V-6 has an AC Clutch that is stalling and squeeling. I thought that the problem just might be low freon, but I can find no leaks and the systems is still putting out ice cubes.
    I need to know what kind of tools and the proceedure for doing this myself. I have worked with AC before, own two classic cars, and have a wife with an extensive first aid kit.
    While I am there, I plan to replace the water pump and the big rubber band.
    Pat
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    COMPRESSOR CLUTCH PLATE AND HUB ASSEMBLY REMOVAL (V7 - DIRECT MOUNT)

    TOOLS REQUIRED

    * J 33013-B Hub and Drive Plate Remover/Installer
    * J 33027-A Clutch Hub Holding Tool
    * J 41790 A/C Compressor Holding Fixture

    COMPRESSOR CLUTCH PLATE AND HUB ASSEMBLY REMOVAL (With RPO Code HT6/HD6/HU6)

    TOOLS REQUIRED

    * J 34992 Compressor Holding Fixture
    * J 33013-B Hub and Drive Plate Remover/Installer

    This is all done off-vehicle of course so you'll need to evacuate and recharge the AC as well.
  • 95jimmy95jimmy Member Posts: 1
    I have a 95 2door jimmy. It has about 194k on it. For the most part it runs great but when it shifts from second to third the truck jerks forward a little bit. Is this a big deal or no?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well hard to say. As a car ages the seals in the trans get old and less flexible, and the valve body might be sticking---and then there's the usual wear and tear on clutch packs, etc. If you are really concerned, you could drop the pan and check for excessive amounts of metallic debris. That would be a warning sign. Also some nice clean fluid and a filter, and perhaps a good conditioner, might help you along.
  • bden1bden1 Member Posts: 2
    A shop just changed the lower gasket on my intake manifold and the spider fuel injector on my 2000 cheverlot blazer. Before I took it in the heater worked. The next day when I got it back the heater did not work. The shop checked and said the heater core is clogged. They flushed the cooling system but said the core is bad. Can the work they did somehow contribute to the heater core getting clogged?
  • bden1bden1 Member Posts: 2
    2000 Chevy Blazer ABS problems, engages even with normal breaking. pumping the breaks helps. Could this be a bad master cylinder?
  • auto9999auto9999 Member Posts: 86
    It may be a bad speed sensor. It is a relatively cheap fix. It happened to my 2000 Blazer, too. Good luck.
  • auto9999auto9999 Member Posts: 86
    My 2000 Blazer also had bad heater core and I had to replace it. The heater core can be clogged over weeks or months. In my case the symptom was the gurgling sound in the heater core. Then the coolant leaked from the heater core to inside cabin and then to the outside of the vehicle.

    Looks like your heater core is just clogged and is not leaking. If I were you, I would bring the vehicle to another shop (maybe a reputable dealer or someone you can really trust) and have it examined. They might be able to flush your heater core.

    Good luck to you.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    They may have gotten debris in the cooling system. Quick repair attempt would be to pull the hoses off the core and backflush the core with a garden hose. Note what comes out of the core. If it backflushes to clean water, and forward flushes okay, hook the hoses back up and top off the cooling system with Dexcool or equivilent (long life antifreeze. Don't mix with the 12 month stuff, bad things happen!), assuming that's what was put in after the gasket repair.
  • danvega13danvega13 Member Posts: 1
    2002 BLAZER with a stuck steering wheel. key goes in and makes "bong" noise but will not turn at all. steering wheel is locked and won't turn either.HELP!!
  • johnss10johnss10 Member Posts: 46
    Some debris could easily have been knocked loose during the maintenance work. GM's Dexcool will form crud in the cooling system if it isn't flushed and replaced every two years. Also, mixing other antifreeze with the Dexcool will cause the gummy stuff to form.

    I've never had any luck clearing a clogged cooling system with flushing,. The chemicals just don't eat away the stuff. The only sure cure is to Remove and Replace. Your radiator and heater core may begin to leak due to the corrosion of the aluminum. This is usually due to the electrical current created between the aluminum radiator and iron engine block by the weak antifreeze (same as above).
  • johnss10johnss10 Member Posts: 46
    Two common problems create this. 1) worn/broken ignition switch or 2) the front wheels are turned when the key is turned off, creating tension on the steering wheel lock pin. It can take a lot of effort on the steering wheel to relieve the tension enough to allow the key to move.
  • bagwanbagwan Member Posts: 1
    Could you tell me the location of the A/C drainhole on a 1995 jimmy? thanks.
  • blackrottieblackrottie Member Posts: 1
    Does anyone know where the drains are for the moonroof? My 2002 2-door blazer smells of mildew. I think my moonroof drains are clogged but I can't seam to find them so that I can blow them out with a compressor.

    There are no signs of leaks, I just smell mildew when it rains.
  • 0dynasty240dynasty24 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 98 Chevy blazer LT and just about a month ago only the day time running lights would work, and at night they will shut off. me and my friend figured out you can make the DRL's stay on with a flashlight up against the photocell. but I still cant get the actual headlights to work, also the brights wont come on, not even the indicator light telling me that its on.
    What do you think could be the problem?
  • carchick29carchick29 Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem! No power to the cab at all. I have power at my starter and my alternator but no power at my ignition. Someone told me that it could be a bad fusable link too but I had power to the cab before I changed my engine. If you get any help with this or find the problem let me know. thanks
  • johnss10johnss10 Member Posts: 46
    I haven't dealt with this problem myself, so all I have is general advice.

    Since the DRL work with the flashlight and in daytime, the photocell must be OK and the body control module (computer) is correctly switching the DRL off, but the headlights aren't coming on.

    Could be fuse for headlights or headlight relay. A wiring diagram (mine is in another state right now) would let you track down the headlight relay wiring, and then follow the wiring to the trouble spot.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    When DRL was first coming to the US, I remember that there was a module that was in series with the headlights that switched the voltage from low to high for the DRL circuit. I don't know if such a module is still used, or if this is handled in another way, but your sensor is working, and something is switching the DRL off and on, so the "control" circuit is good.

    I just checked a GM parts listing for a '98 S series Blazer, and there is a DRL module listed. It is mounted on a bracket next to the headlight relay. There is also a diode listed in the circuit. I wish I could be more help, but the detail on this is very sketchy. I did just find a DRL "typical" schematic for GM, and it shows that if the headlight switch is bad, the DRL will work, but not the headlights. They are fed from different sources.
  • mdiaz0429mdiaz0429 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Chevy Blazer that I took into a local dealership in Miami for exchange of the ignition switch. They returned the car to me with the steering wheel slightly out of center to the left. If you center the wheel while driving the car veers to the right. It did not do this before I had the ignition repair done. Now the dealership tells me that the steering wheel cannot be re-installed out of center since there is a pin that prevents this from happening. They say that the car needs a front end alignment and want to charge me $85 to do it. Are they trying to fool me or does their explanation make any sense? Thanks in advance!
  • skiextreme2skiextreme2 Member Posts: 30
    Tell them you are speaking with an attorney/lawyer. If you have the money to do so, please do. Then send a registered letter that has to be signed for to GM/Chevrolet that is very carefully and respectfully worded, explaining the end result of the repair.

    Try not to be demanding, but explain that this was a problem caused by the dealer and you should not have to pay to correct something they caused.

    If you bought the Blazer new, that is in your favor and add that to the letter, as well as any GM/Chevrolet purchased new by you or your family.

    After you've sent the letter, you might try calling, but expect many delays in contacting anyone that has the authority to make them fix the problem.

    This is just a suggestion because I did that for my mother once and it did work at that time.

    Good luck and let us know how this turns out.
  • duntovduntov Member Posts: 133
    The front suspension is out of alignment in relation to the steering wheel. The car will not wander or drift in one direction if you don't mind looking at a off - center steering wheel.

    If it was not that way before you took it to the dealership, they may have hit a curb or something while moving it around b ecause the steering wheel is not going get off center by itself. The dealership is correct in saying that the steering wheel cannot be realigned without realigning the front wheels.

    When you aligned the front end of the cars before the late-1970s, you seldom got the car back from the shop with the steering wheel centered when the vehicle was traveling straight ahead. That is because the shop technician did not use the special tool that holds the steering wheel in the correct position while the technician aligns the front wheels. When that happened to me, I just removed the steering wheel and realigned it on the splined steering shaft. That is not the proper way to do it but it achieves the same thing as doing it the correct way by realigning the front wheels. The end of the steering shaft has a "pip" mark at the steering wheel retainer nut and a pip mark on the center line of the steering wheel under the horn button assembly and those should be in alignment. There is also a "pip" mark on the steering shaft at the steering coupler . The coupler is mounted on the centerline of the steering shaft and should be aligned with the pip mark on the end of the steering shaft and the pip mark on the steering wheel. The flexible steering coupler connects the steering shaft to the steering sector.

    It is more complicated on modern cars because the wheel alignment alone determines the steering wheel position.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Assuming the wheel has be reinstalled correctly, a simple toe in check should be made. The alignment of the steering wheel is a function of setting the tie rod adjustment in a balanced fashion, ie if four turns are needed, you take two on each adjustment, not four on one side or the other.

    That being said, this vehicle DOES NOT use an alignment slot, though some cars do. And if the steering wheel is installed just one tooth off, it will definitely be turned when the car is going straight.

    How about this; take it back to the shop and tell them to remove the airbag cover and air bag. This will allow a visual inspection of the steering wheel and shaft. If the alignment marks are not lined up, they pull the wheel and make it right and you should owe them nothing. If the marks are lined up properly, then you need to find out how the alignment became altered.

    One other question; have the tires been rotated? It is not uncommon to have a bad tire cause a slight pull on the steering, resulting in the wheel being turned slightly when the vehicle is going straight. I have a BFGoodrich Radial T/A on a '99 Blazer right now that is doing this. Tire is smooth, wearing properly, but if I rotate it to the front, the vehicle will pull slightly in the direction it is installed. Put it on the rear, no problem.
  • johnss10johnss10 Member Posts: 46
    The dealer service department is usually the worst place to get your car repaired. Use someone else if at all possible.

    You are going to have to be really firm with these people. The service writer's job is to generate as much work and income as possible. Customer Satisfaction is not on their list of things to do. As a matter of fact, they are experts at stonewalling, to minimize the amount of "come back" work, since it reduces the incoming cash flow.

    Demand to speak to the service manager, and don't take "no" for an answer until they have taken the necessary steps to resolve the problem. It doesn't hurt to reference the regional service organization, and the better business bureau. If this steering wheel was straight when you took it in, then they are obligated to return it in that condition, one way or another.

    If it has to have an alignment, I wouldn't have the dealer do it. Take it to a locally owned, independent alignment shop.

    I think the suggestion to pull the airbag and check the marks is a really good one.
  • royglenroyglen Member Posts: 2
    I took the starter off of my deer lease blazer a couple of months ago and had it tested at Autozone. It passed and I am just now getting around to installing it again and my memory is failing. The solenoid has 1 large post in the middle and 2 small posts, one of the small posts has an S beside it. I know that the heavy positive cable from the battery goes on the large post and I think the small purple wire goes on the S terminal. I don't remember where the other two wires go (they are joined together). The connector on those 2 is large enough to go on the large post and I think that is where they go. I seem to remember the second small post didn't have anything on it. Before I put these other 2 wires on the large post, I am hoping to get some advice from someone who knows the correct connection. Thanks. Roy
  • dunrightdunright Member Posts: 2
    I'm stuck in costa rica with my 98 S-10 blazer 4x4. i need a new pitman arm, but they tell me they have to raise/lift the engine to replace it. it makes no sense to me, but i'm far from being any kind of mechanic. a friend recommended this forum. thanks for any advice.
  • mporubcanmporubcan Member Posts: 2
    I replaced the pitman arm on my 98 Blazer w/o lifting the engine. It was a bear to get the arm off (even with the right puller).

    Maybe they do not have the right tools to do the job.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    No you don't have to raise the engine, but of course you have to lift the car and you need to get a few things out of the way to pull the arm off. Having the right tools helps a lot.

    * Tools Required:
    * J 24319-B Steering Linkage Puller.
    * J 29107-A Pitman Arm Puller.
    * J 6632-01 Pitman Arm Remover.
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