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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • lyndsaytlyndsayt Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1997 GMC Jimmy. The minute you get in it smells like a wet gym bag. It is nothing I have put in the vehicle or left on the carpet.
    I was told by a repair man that worked on it and commented that the mildew smell is from a part that needs to be replaced. Unfortunately, I forgot what it was. He said it is a very common thing with Jimmy's and not expensive. I could do it myself. Has anyone had this problem? Do you know what this part is that causes the smell?? Please help!
  • skiextreme2skiextreme2 Member Posts: 30
    Not sure of the exact name or part number, but could it be the filter for the fresh air system?

    I have heard of this before, but my manual does not show where that filter is and I would like to know also.
  • skiextreme2skiextreme2 Member Posts: 30
    I have 2002 Blazer, 4.3, auto, 4WD, 95K and have had one problem for over a year, the other problems started a couple months ago. I have had different guess's but they don't seem to fit or solve the problems.

    The first problem was the gas gauge. I can have a full tank of gas and the gauge will drop to empty. Sometimes, if I put the shift lever into neutral it will go back to where it should be and sometimes I have to rev the engine up a bit to make the gas gauge get back to where it should be. The only suggestions were, wiring or the sending unit in the gas tank. Oh yes, the trip computer seems to be fairly accurate as far as the amount of gas used compared to the mileage. This bugs me to no end and I could use some help with this problem.

    The second problem I need to get solved is a trouble code P0440. Everyone told me it was the gas cap. I had a new locking gas cap on it from the day after I bought it two years ago. I did keep the old cap, so I put that back on and erased the code. It worked for a few days, then came back on.

    I don't know if the two problems are related and because I changed the gas cap and the problem was OK for a few days then the CEL came back on, I am thinking it is not the gas cap.

    Have to get through inspection son and need to get that taken care of.

    One thing I should mention is that the smaller vacuum hoses had to be replaced several months ago. I am referring to the ones that control 4WD, and the fresh air system. They were all around 3/16ths size hoses.

    Any chance something could be plugged or another hose that is bad?

    The manual mentions the charcoal canister, but doesn't have a photo. It also mentions the EVAP purge control valve and mentions a couple tests, but not in good enough detail (I'm better with mechanical problems) for me.

    I posted the gas gauge problem here a long time ago, but probably worded it differently because I got no response at all.

    Help!
  • stealthnystealthny Member Posts: 25
    I have 2 problems. I purchased a 1997 Blazer. AS I was buying it the heater stopped. When I direct wire the fan motor to the battery the fan runs fine. I then replaced the fan speed switch and it worked fine for a week. Now it works sometimes and it doesnt work sometimes. I also noticed that the different doors do not open for heat options. I live in upstate NY (16 degrees today ) so i need this to work any suggestions?
    Also when I purchased the truck it needed a new battery. I installed one and after driving 40 miles tried to get it inspected. the mech said it was to soon to read the computer and told me to drive it more. 3 days later the service engine light went on and stayed on all afternoon. The next morning the light was off and has been since. When I reached 145 miles I tried to get it inspected and again the mech. said his message still read not ready to read. I have noticed small electrical items not working IE compass is backwards, gas and temp gauge dont seem to work, could they all be computer related?
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Not a filter, the evaporator core drain is plugged. Water collects where it shouldn't and you get mildew. Easy way to tell is on a warm humid day, turn on the ac and see if you get any dripping under the car.

    Fairly common problem, the drain just needs to be cleaned. I know it is behind and below the dryer (that big silver thing by the firewall) but I can't tell you exactly where.
  • lbeasleylbeasley Member Posts: 3
    emydee23, did you every get your blazer starter replaced? I'm in the process of replacing my 1998 blazer 4x4 starter now and cannot figure out an easy way to unbolt the wires connected to the solenoid.

    After a bunch of twisting and moving around, I finally got the starter to a point to where I can pull it out, but it wont come out unless the wires connected to the solenoid are disconnected. How in the heck do you get a socket to these bolts?
  • edmccedmcc Member Posts: 1
    I've read a number of posts about the vacuum lines, but nothing happens when I push the 4HI or 4LO buttons on the dash - no clicks, no nothing. The 2LO and 4LO lights on the buttons didn't work when the 4WD worked last year, I get that they may just be burned out. The 4HI light still turns on and off when pressed. So is this still a vacuum problem? There was another post that there is a separate electronic control module that controls the shifting between 2 & 4 wheel drive that may need replaced. Should I look to replace that first? It just snowed here about 15", but better late than never.
  • 2manytoyz2manytoyz Member Posts: 7
    Did you get it fixed?
  • murderfacemurderface Member Posts: 1
    This fan problem is the same on the 97 Jimmy. I live in Calgary Ab and It hit -34.6 degrees the other day and sure enough the f-ing thing stoped working. I have tried switching out the speed switch as well and its not that. I think it is something wrong with the fan its self. Somtimes if you do not use the fan for a while like me (never use it in summer at all) it tends to build up with crap and doesn't work. Problem is that in the Blazer as well as the Jimmy you have to cut away at it to get in there and patch it up after. Not sure if thats your problem but it worked for mine. Good luck man.
  • sticky23sticky23 Member Posts: 2
    Hi guys I've got a problem with my blazer?This problem is not so bad that I can't drive the truck or anything like that.The truck rides very nice on a smooth road.It pulls to the left just a little.Now when a get on a road with a lot of little bumps or potholes it kinda cuts left and then back right and can be kinda difficult for some to drive.REMEMBER this not terrible but not 100% right,it's maybe 90% percent right.Its like the steering is a little loose or something?I dont know if this is a steering stabilzer,ball joints,tierod ends or maybe even shocks which the truck NEEDS REALLY REALLY BADDDDDD!!!!!!!!!!!!! :cry:
  • dp2226dp2226 Member Posts: 28
    I had trouble finding this info and though it may help someone. Ordered a new cover and neglected to see it did not include the bolts.

    This was on a 99 Chevy Blazer 10 bolt and believe was the same for 12 Bolt.

    Min Grade 5 5/16 - 18 x 3/4

    5/16 is the diameter, 18 would be threads per inch, 3/4 lenght

    Found 3 packs of the bolts at Lowes for $1.04 Grade 8, Washers Grade 8 $1.04 per 5 pack
  • dp2226dp2226 Member Posts: 28
    This is just based on experience with my 99 I just picked up. I replaced all items noted except the sway bar. Looked new. Plus the wheel hubs, idler, pitman arm. My steering wheel is a little off center after a computerized alignment and notice sometimes at higher speeds tends to pull a little in the lane each way. Think most is just the fact it is an older truck.

    When I first bought the vehicle as soon as I turned on the truck, the wheel would sink to one side and the same side the wheel was wearing poorly. (Very unsafe ball joints)

    Turns out the ball joints, were very poor quality, one wheel hub was bad, pitman and idler arms were bad.

    To check wheel hubs, put the front end on some stands or even a side at a time may work. Grab the tires on the side and shake up and down. There should be no movement. Even a little is too much and heard these go frequently. Luckily they are $99 each at Autozone including the sensor which is another issue. plus $20 to replace the nut which is suggested. A garage replacing one side is around $450

    To check Pitman and Idler arms I believe there would be play on tires if you grab it and move it side to side. These are about $35 each. Is a little tough to install because of the location. I had to take off the steering box.

    To check if its a ball joint take the tire off grab the rotor and pull out on it if it moves its bad get it replaced. They range from $24 for the value brand and $45 each for the higher brand. Remember 2 per side. A garage gets 2.5 hrs per side plus double the cost of the parts.

    For the tierod someone wiggle the steering back an forth 10 to 2 o'clock should be enough to see play in the pitman arm,drag link, tie rod ends. If its a sealed boot around the inner tie rod end you can still check it, But just a little more difficult, Still takes anyone that can move the steering wheel back an forth.while you observe the steering knuckles move, No movement at the joint should be scene. No clunking, (if these are fine you may want to avoid replacing, can be a pain to thread the nut on the stud)

    If you can do the work yourself depending when any of these were last replaced, it would make sense to do them all at once because you will need an alignment and I paid around $75 .

    Make sure you are careful, ball joints will pop right out of place and spring the control arm, that is once you are lucky enough to get them off. Plus the more you take off the easier all this will be.

    I paid a Garage $80 to diagnosis the problems unintentionally because I was very new at this. They wanted $1000 for ball joints and 1 wheel hub. I was able to do all this work myself for $800, (not counting shocks, that does not sound like your problem.)

    It was very tough work the first time but learned a lot and could do so much faster now. You need good tools. Min 1/2" drive rachet, some PB Blasters, joint pry bar tools, a 24 inch breaker bar, possibly a cheater pipe, I used a 6ft metal fence post.
    Wear gloves to protect your hands. Most of the sizes are metric, one of the caliper bolts is 18mm, drove me nuts and almost stripped a nut.

    It is easier to loosen the wheel hub while, truck is on the ground, not to take off fully, just loosen.

    Hope any part of this helps, this is a ton of research and self expereince I found in many different places.
  • stealthnystealthny Member Posts: 25
    Hello I have purchased a 1997 blazer. I have had it about 1 month now but cant get it inspected. All he gets are incomplete and not ready codes IE: Evaorator unit: Not Ready
    Oxygen Sensor Heater: Not Ready
    EGR something: Not Ready
    Someone please help I already have 1 ticket for no inspection.

    Thanks
  • clunkerowner88clunkerowner88 Member Posts: 6
    Try taking the EGR valve off and cleaning it. It will cause the same symptoms
  • edortizr6edortizr6 Member Posts: 10
    My '00 Jimmy squeaks all the time. I decided to change the belt tensioner to see if that will fix it. Are there any online guides or anything that I can refer to if needed? I searched around but couldn't find anything.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    You don't have to change the whole tensioner, you can just change the wheel and bearing. First take the belt off and see if the bearing is bad.

    Also, I had this problem and was going crazy trying to figure it out. I could spray a little belt dressing on the serpentine and the squeak would stop for a while, then come back. Finally figured out it was the Gates belt (new) I was using. Changed to a Goodyear Gatorback belt and never hear another peep.
  • edortizr6edortizr6 Member Posts: 10
    Well, I already have the tensioner, but I'll check the bearing first. I didn't know I can just get the bearing.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Finally figured out it was the Gates belt

    One theory is that the painted Gates logo on their belts can cause the squeak. Belt dressing fixes for a while but it comes back, at least until the paint wears off.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Yep, that's what I found. Also, the grooves in the Gates belt are continuous and can trap dirt/oil. The Goodyear Gatorback belt has a segmented groove pattern that is "self cleaning".
  • dfiskedfiske Member Posts: 2
    I had the same problem with my 95 S-10. I found the tan wire w/ black stripe on a wiring harness coming out of the ECM (computer) under the dash on the passenger side. I had to remove the panel under the dash on the passenger side, lower the computer and found it as a loop on the side of the wiring harness. It has a jack you can disconnect.
  • dfiskedfiske Member Posts: 2
    My idle speed surges intermittantly when in gear. I have changed the throttle position sensor and purge canister solenoid. I think my next step is to clean the idle control valve.
    Any suggestions?
  • jefe63jefe63 Member Posts: 5
    Carlos, Thank you for your post. My 2000 s-10 blazer had the same exact problem, and after trying your 3 step procedure, It is working right. Sometimes when I am driving tho, all my warning lights will illuminate, or the security light comes on, yet it keeps running. Jeff
  • brunsfxrbrunsfxr Member Posts: 1
    Anybody have any secrets for replacing upper ball joints. I need to replace the driverside upper ball joint on a 82 jimmy.
  • marblazemarblaze Member Posts: 16
    all of a sudden my turn signal does not work checked the fuse it is good and has power when switched on but the turn signal does nothing when i raise the lever up or down its dead, any suggestion , i havent shecked the turn signal flasher yet
  • marblazemarblaze Member Posts: 16
    my fwd doesnot work and the cvc is leaking i thought i would remove them would this cause any other problems?
  • smileyfedexsmileyfedex Member Posts: 9
    MY 2001 GMC JIMMY 4.3L
    MY PROBLEM WHEN I START IT IT POPS (BACKFIRES I GUESS YOU WOULD CALL IT) AND A LITTLE SMOKE COMES FROM UNDER HOOD BUT IF PUSH GAS PEDAL ALITTLE WHILE STARTING IT WILL START RIGHT UP RUNS ALITTLE ROUGH FOR ABOUT 30 SECONDS AND THEN RUNS FINE IT DOES IT MORE WHEN IT COOL (FLORIDA) AND IT WILL DO IT WHEN THE ENGINE IS WARM (AFTER DRIVING) SOMETIMES
    THANKS IN ADVANCE FOR ANY HELP WITH THIS MATTER

    SMILEY
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    No caps, please!

    To answer your question, this sounds like a classic fuel regulator failure where the regulator is leaking, adding additional fuel into the engine. The additional fuel causes the backfire/hard start, followed by rough idle. Once the excess fuel is burned off, the engine will run normally as it can deal with the small amount of leakage coming in.

    This repair can be performed by a skilled doityourselfer, otherwise needs to be professionally repaired as the regulator is part of the "spider" fuel delivery system in the intake manifold used by the 4.3L and other GM V8 engines. I had this failure on a 6.0L v8, with the exact symptoms you describe.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    This is probably the best write up on GM's CPI fuel system operation and repair I have come across, written for automotive repair students:

    Tomorrow's Technician
  • 82mustangs82mustangs Member Posts: 5
    coolant temp sensor 10.00 part at advance :):)
  • 82mustangs82mustangs Member Posts: 5
    sender in the take taking a crap . tony
  • 82mustangs82mustangs Member Posts: 5
    82mustangs@bellsouth.net probabaly heater control switch or a vacum line more like the first.tony
  • 82mustangs82mustangs Member Posts: 5
    try coolant temp sensor 10 part makes injectors run wide open if not working right . tony
  • 82mustangs82mustangs Member Posts: 5
    could be module distribur.
  • smileyfedexsmileyfedex Member Posts: 9
    Hi
    Sorry about the caps.
    Thanks for the reply
    I will let you know how it turns out
    thanks
  • 00jimmy00jimmy Member Posts: 5
    I have a 2000 Jimmy. Someone was able to break into my truck by jamming something under the door handle while I was shopping. In under 10 mins they cleaned out my car. I don't know if these locks are particularly easy to open, but if you read this, be careful about what you leave in your truck.

    Not repair related, I know, but I wanted to let you other Jimmy owners know.
  • t2mbbct2mbbc Member Posts: 1
    edited March 2010
    My throttle cable broke right at the gas pedal tonight. The pedal went right to the floor without accelerating or springing back. How do you fix that? I can feel the top of the pedal and the cable itself that is no longer connected. I am guessing that I have to replace the cable but I can't find any instructions anywhere. Can you tell me how to replace the cable if that is what I should do?
    Thanks!
  • kingstonsman53kingstonsman53 Member Posts: 44
    can any one help my 1998 jimmy has been acting up. i changed acuator acuator cable encoder motor and dash switch. didnt have four wheel drive sometimes untill i changed the dash switch. now it goes into four high and dont want to shift back. any suggestions?
  • hewybohewybo Member Posts: 10
    bought my 95 last summer -am pleased so far........except - I can't find the dang door lock solenoid by feeling around inside the door! Where the heck is it? I'm thinking back by the door latch mechanism, but cannot be sure. How to remove/replace? :confuse:
  • johngjrjohngjr Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Blazer w/ V6 4.3,the engine has 126K on it. There is a rubbing noise coming from the distributor. With your hand on the distributor, you can feel it while the engine is running. The frequency of the noise increases as the rpm increases. The cap and rotor have been replaced with no change in the noise. Is it the distributor or something more internal with the engine?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Might be a bearing in the distributor. You might need to pull it to test the play in it and also check the drive for damage.
  • johnss10johnss10 Member Posts: 46
    This could be a lot of things. I think the only way to know is to pull the distributor. Some of the older vehicles, 1996-1998, had a soft dist. drive gear at the bottom, so there could easily be other bearing/bushing wear issues.

    If you do this, be sure to mark all the relative positions. Also may require going through the timing set procedure for the engine computer, especially if you have to replace any parts.
  • beaches2beaches2 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 99 jimmy, it would not start and the battery light was alway on, so me being a women and my husband deployed, I went and bought a new battery, it starts, but the battery light is still on, and it seems to be draining the battery slowly. Any ideas on how to fix this, or whats wron?
  • hewybohewybo Member Posts: 10
    most likely, it's your alternator - you could go to a reputable auto parts store (AutoZone, etc.), and they will check it for you for free.....good luck, and our thanks and prayers to you and your husband.
  • duntovduntov Member Posts: 133
    edited April 2010
    The charge indicator light will be illuminated if the charging voltage is too high or too low. . Make certain the intergral voltage regulator terminal output wire is fully connected to the terminal that is located in the side of the alternator. The alternator is not serviceable and no periodic maintenance is required. The alternator should never be disassembled for any reason.

    However, over a period of time, the intergral regulator voltage output Weather-Pak terminal connector located in the side of the alternator can become loose and can illuminate the charge indicator light, even if the voltage output is only slightly low. The charge indicator light has no dim or bright stage to show the rate of charge or discharge. The charge indicator light is either fully lit or it is off. If the output voltage terminal Weather-Pak connector is loose or damaged, it can be blown off by the force of air from the radiator cooling fan, especially after driving at higher speed. You should NEVER operate the alternator with the output terminal disconnected. The voltage output Weather-Pak connector has a black rubber boot to protect the connection . You can request that a service station attendant or a parts store employee check the alternator voltage regulator out put terminal connector to see if the connector has become loose. If it is loose or disconnected, it can be pushed back on the alternator connection. If the connector was loose, the GM Weather-Pak alternator voltage output connection should be checked often or the Weather-Pak connector replaced.

    That happened to my 1991 S10 Blazer 4x4 because the plastic locking tab on the GM Weather-Pak connector was sabotaged by someone and it would not lock onto the alternator voltage output terminal connection.. My S10 Blazer has a digital instrument panel with no indicator light. When the connector came loose, the battery charge rate indicated less than 10 volts. (I found that the air flow from the radiator would blow the Weather-Pak connection apart every time I got up to freeway speeds....... or higher. That led me to the problem and I replaced the plastic GM Weather-Pak terminal connector but only after I got tired of pushing it back on the alternator voltage output terminal.

    Replacing a GM Weather-Pak connector is not a job for a novice because it takes patience and special tools. A dealership could replace the Weather-Pak connector for about 0.5 hour flat rate labor cost. Be advised, you should NEVER lubricate GM Weather-Pak connectors with WD-40 because the "secret sauce" in that product will attack and ruin GM Weather-Pak seals. The main ingredient in that product is mineral spirits which will ruin the silicone Weather-Pak connector seals. Always use a dielectric silicone lubricant in a tube but on the seals only and not on the conductors. The term di-electric means "insulator" or non-conductor and using di-electic grease can reduce full electrical connection. . .

    I hope this tip saved you about $200 for a rebuilt alternator.
  • johnss10johnss10 Member Posts: 46
    I really sounds like the alternator is not charging for some reason. It could be the Alternator, a connection, or the belt may be slipping. The larger chain auto parts stores (Advance, Autozone, Checker) will test both the battery and alternator for you. Call them first and ask if they offer the service. If the alternator is not charging, the battery WILL slowly drain down due to the electrical usage of the car during normal operation. If the alternator needs to be replaced, ask the auto parts store to recommend a shop. They will know who does honest work. Do not take it to a dealer unless there is no other choice. Even a chain auto repair shop (Firestone, Midas, etc. ) would be better than the dealer, but I would prefer a locally owned independent garage, since they have to do have a good reputation to stay in business.

    The previous battery may have been OK, just low due to the bad alternator or connection, but don't panic over that. A really good battery is always good to have
    Hoe this helps. If you need anything further, just post again. .
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    edited April 2010
    For some good news, if the alternator is bad and needs replacing, the job is very simple and quick (as in low labor cost).

    With your husband deployed, and in support of our troops, if you were within 100 miles of central Texas I would come do the job myself, no charge. My nephew is currently in Iraq in special forces.

    Tell us your general area and I will challenge my online associates to step up.

    Jim
  • duntovduntov Member Posts: 133
    If you determine it is in fact the alternator that is at fault and not the voltage output wire connector, the cost of the alternator alone will be from $80 to $184 plus tax, depending on where it is purchased. Be advised, alternators seldom fail and they will usually last for the life of the car.That excludes Ford alternators which fail regularily.

    The average flat rate labor cost in Texas is $65 per hour at an independent garages and $90 per hour at Chevrolet deaerships.. The flat rate time will only be applied to 1/2 hour labor no matter who does the work and how long it actually takes. That is in addition to the cost of the alternator. A new car dealership will charge from $150 to $184 for a rebuilt 105 amp alternator whereas a independent garage may charge as little as $80 for a rebuilt 105 amp alternaotror, plus the applicable 1/2 hour labor cost and sales tax. Total cost of parts and labor is :
    Dealerships: $229.
    Independent garages ...$115
    You will get a 90 day to a one year day gauarantee if a professional car repair facility does the work and that is worth something.

    New car dealerships discourage non-warranty work by charging higher labor and parts costs. That is because a dealership has all the work they can handle just doing warranty work on the cars they have already sold and warranty work takes priority over non-warranty work. Avoid a new car dealership,even if they give you all the free coffee you can drink or a loaner car to use.
  • sparky5870sparky5870 Member Posts: 2
    i'm having trouble finding the starter, i just hear clicking when i turn the ignition, how can i check if the starter is defective?
  • johnss10johnss10 Member Posts: 46
    This could be a lot of things, least likely is the starter. Most likely is a low battery or poor connection.

    With the headlights on, turn the key to start. If the lights go out, low/bad battery, or poor connection. First, clean battery cable connections, be sure connections are tight after cleaning. Also, many parts stores (Autozone, Advance, Checker, etc) will test the battery. Or, try jumping with another battery in a running car. If it still just clicks, may be bad starter solenoid.

    With the headlights on, turn the key to start. If the lights stay on, is probably bad solenoid. Good news, parts are cheap, bad news is hard to get to, have to remove the starter to change the solenoid.

    Once the starter is out, parts store will test solenoid and starter.

    What year is your Blazer?
  • mudluvermudluver Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1995 Blazers when I give it gas to go its fine until I have to increase speed. Its fine to just role away but trying to get on the high way or when I need it to get up and go it bogs out. Any ideas to what it could be please let me know. I've change spark plugs, wires, MAF, Fuel pump, full lines, expected on the engine that is the only fuel line I haven't checked. :sick: :confuse: :cry::( :lemon:
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