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I have photos if you need them.
Good Luck...
Can anyone tell me what is involved in replacing the crank seals, front and rear. Also, would this be cost effective considering it's 20 years old with 190,000 mi. Had some issues earlier this year but now running very well. Trans. has aprox. 20,000 mi., This summer installed complete new AC system, ball joints, complete new front axles w/ CV joints. New radiator last year. New seals or a complete rebuild? I bought it new and hate to see it go.
All opinions appreciated.
The seal kit is GM part number 14088556 with a MSRP of $66.43. The kit is STILL AVAILABLE as of this date. It is a one piece seal and housing with the pan studs already installed in the seal housing. The engine does not have to be removed to install the one piece seal kit like the 2 -piece seals found on the 1986 and earlier V6 and V8 Chevrolet engines. The front of the block does not have a seal like the rear crank seal so it is probably the front timing cover gasket or timing cover crankshaft seal that is leaking. The radiator, serpentine belt and front balancer/pulley assembly must be removed and the crank seal must be replaced. It is located in the metal timing chain cover. If you are in the used car business, this not cost effective since the resale value of the car is about $2000. It is a good investment if you plan on keeping the car for another five or six years.
Since the one piece rear cranshaft seal is still available at any GM dealership (special order) I will buy a couple of spares for my '91 S10 Blazer 4x4. That is because every time I start liking a product, it is not around very long. If it is discontinued, it will not be long before an aftermarket company starts making it. However, I try not to buy anything but AC Delco or Genuine GM parts, even if they are made in Mexico and China. Unlike American manufacturers, the Chinese have excellent quality control......they chop your head off if you make a mistake.
I have rebuilt a .030" OS 4.3L V6 engine for my 1991 S10 Blazer 4x4 with forged 350 V8 pistons and a high-performance comoputer compatible camshaft. I am the original owner and the vehicle is in showroom condition with only 150,000 miles on the odometer. . I am continually replacing parts on that vechicle not because they have failed, but just because they are 19 years old . I am not in the used car business so I do not worry about making a profit if I someday sell the vehicle. I sold my '63 Pontiac Catalina 421 HO for $16,000 and I had $50,000 invested in it. That is what happens when two fools meet.
I had no thoughts about doing this one myself. Wanted to be somewhat educated before approaching a shop. I can't say mine is anywhere near showroom appearance but not bad and has served me well. I am surprised at your estimate. Being so labor intensive, I feared much more. The ball joints and axles cost $663. The operative word is HONEST.
The other question is "pay me now or pay me later". I have no way of knowing the condition of the rest of the engine. Since you guys helped me back in July, the truck is running very well. Gas consumption about as always before. Not good but no different. Oil pressure 40 +/- 5. No evidence of burning oil. Never had to add before this leak. Always changed oil and filter religiously. It still has the power to, easily, pull my 26 foot boat up a steep ramp. Low range 4X4 of course.
Thank you
My 98 Blazer has 210,000 on 4.3 V6. I haven't needed to replace the rear seal yet.
I did replace the timing chain and cover. Rockauto had the cover complete with gaskets for $20, and the gasket set alone was $12. Since the truck is 4WD, another source of leaks was the hose assembly for the remote oil filter, so I had it replaced also.
For any part that is labor intensive, buy the best parts you can get. Don't want to do the labor twice because of cheap parts.
Good luck with the Blazer.
Thanks for your comments.
At 120,000 miles, I also replaced my o2 sensor and the EGR valve and it nearly felt like a new engine in about 100 miles when the computer reprogrammed itself to the new parts. The OE EGR valve was completely coked up with carbon deposits. I cleaned out the intake manfold EGR ports before I installled the new EGR valve. The old cliche "If it ain't broke don't fix it" does not allways apply to some parts on automobiles. For automobiles it should be: "If it ain't broke, fix it before it is broke" That is called "maintenance". Many parts on tmodern cars nowdays are "wear parts" and should be replaced according to the mortality of the part or before they fail completely. Shock absorbers, ignition coils, ignition wire, ignition module, EGR vavle, spark plugs, distributor caps, rotors, ect. are just some of the thing that need routine replacemnt. Of course, you must take the over-all condition of the vehicle into consideration and what you want to do with it. I have a fresh engine ready to install in my 1991 S10 Blazer that cost about $3000 to build. If I wanted to sell my 1991 S10 Blazer the day after I installed the engine, I could not ask more than $3000 for it.
I recently junked my 1998 Ford Crown Victoria with 90,000 miles that had a broken timing chain. The timing chain broke and bent some valves. I figured up the cost to fix the engine and it would cost more than the car is worth. I should have spent $500 and replaced the timing chain at 60,000 miles just as Ford recommended, before it broke and ruined the engine. .
I have used the SeaFoam in my 1996 Blazer... 210800 miles... in the gas only. Most likely what happened to cause your seals to leak... same as when you start using synthetic oils on higher mileage vehicles... I use Amsoil only... is the false seal created by crude was dissolved away... allowing for a temporary gap in the seal and the surface that it was sealing... this will most likely seal itself... as the seal will return to its original position before the crude build up. I have experienced this when converting high mileage vehicles... over 80K to synthetics (Amsoil). Hope this helps.
TJ
New subject; Why would it cost $500.00 +, to replace the motor mounts. One under the Trans., Two under the engine? Again, I have no clue.
No clue on the cost of the motor mounts, other than maybe it's mostly labor because GM's fine engineering made them so hard to get at.
The one piece crankshaft seal housing adapter retains the rear crankshaft seal. The seal can be replaced without replacing the housing adapter but it is easier to replace the whole assembly as a unit. It was probably not that that failed because it would have cost more than what you paid to replace it. The one piece crankshaft seals rarely fail.
On a 4x4 Blazer , the oil leak you had was probably the remote oil filter / oil cooler hose adapter gaskets or the oil cooler / oil filter hose O-rings seals. That adapter bolts to the block with two bolts where the oil filter is located on 2WD Blazers. The oil cooler and oil filter hoses are attached to the adapter with one bolt with a gasket and have "O" ring seals that can fail. . The oil filter and oil cooler hose adapter itself cannot fail but the oil hose O-ring seals and adapter to block gaskets can. fail. The hose ends of the oil filter and oil cooler hoses are aluminim and can crack easily and leak. In that event the hose assemblies must be replaced with new O-ring seals. The oil filter and oil cooler hose assemblies are similar to A.C. hoses but are not high pressure hoses.
On a 4x4 Blazer, the oil filter and adapter is located on the left fender behind the radiator support. The oil filter adapter is connected to the oil filter and oil cooler hose adapter with two hoses paired together, one in and one out and come in two assemblies, the front assembly is from the oil filter to the oil cooler and the rear assembly is from the oil filter to the oil hose adapter that is attached to the engine block. The front and rear hose assemblies are pre-assembled with aluminum connectors and they are avaliable from Dorman for about $50. Those hose assemblies are also a wear item and should always be replaced when the engine is rebuilt or if they leak.
As to the motor mounts; your reason is close to what the shop told me. Almost all labor due to design.
Where do I start looking to find the problem and how do I override when I want to use the car until I find the problem.
the Jimmy is 4wd, 4.3L V6, automatic.
Recently it began not starting. If left alone long enough ( 8-9 hrs ), I could get it to eventually start. So from the recommendation of a mechanic, I had the fuel pump replaced ( twice ) on my Blazer. The first one, I was told was faulty from the factory because it did not solve the problem.
Now ( with the $350.00 fuel pump repair ) it is slow to start ( which is a new sympton ) but unlike before NOW it DOES eventually turn over ( with enough cranking) and then it runs fine.
It NEVER did any of this stuff before. The battery is only 9 months old. The battery terminals are clean. There is NO service engine soon light on. Although it will start, I am wondering how long it will be until it doesn't, again. I can't seem to find anyone who knows what is up with the damn thing.
Any sound, solid advice would be MUCH appreciated !
Fustrated female in Michigan !!
i have 2000 chevy blazer 4x4 (4 button) I am having a problem when I push any of the buttons (AUTO OR 4-HI OR 4-LO) the light blinks but it goes back to 2-Hi
I tried changing four wheel drive computer and the 4 button switch and still the same thing (i also have 2001 gmc jimmy with the 4 button switch and 4x4 computer had same part numbers and the 4x4 works fine on my 01 jimmy)
Thanks In Advance for any help with this problem
If you lie under the front of the car while someone else presses the buttons, you may be able to track down the malfunction. You an see the actuator and cable. they should move as the vehicle is shifted into and out of 4WD.
I had the same problem with my 01. Look under the hood near the fire wall and almost direclty above the distributor cap. There is a sloelnoid switch there that has two air lines (one in and one out) and an electrical connector. I replaced this and it has worked fine ever since. Came in handy as we got over 64" of snow just after replacing it. It is a DEALER ONLY part and cost about $56.
I can't remember what it is called though. The air lines (on mine anyway) were a bit hard to get off but once they broke loose they came off easily. I did the same that thing "johns" mentioned and checked the actuator under the battery. There were no tears or damage. So I replaced the solenoid.
Hope this helps.
I took the one off my 01 gmc jimmy same part number and switched it and still the lights blink I took the one off my 2000 blazer and put it my 01 jimmy and it worked so it wasn't that
I will look under the battery in the morning and try that since i have the 01 gmc jimmy which the 4x4 works fine
Any more ideas or help I would be thankful
also note the i noticed it was not working after the alternator went which I replaced it and then i noticed the 4x4 I am not sure if that means anything
Have a safe holiday
thanks again
Smiley
IF anyone else has ideas with this matter please help me thanks
Do post when you find the problem.
And how is the easiest way to do it? Time frame?
It won't engage and I have discovered that the problem is inside the diff, it won't engage even if I pull the fork out max by hand.
Do anyone have a clue what the problem can be?
I have a 95 Blazer 4.3 that we're having major issues with. Right now, there is oil in the lower intake, runs fine for a couple of miles and then starts to act like it wants to cut off, finally, we think it has a bad main bearing and considering that this may be the cause for the cutting out of the vehicle. What do you think? Thank you
Just from prior knowledge, if the chain had jumped, you may have bent a valve or more and I believe that you must be at exact TDC when you put the timing chain on, if it’s not TDC, you should have asked before putting it together to be sure. If it had jumped time, the valves should have been checked and by the chain jumping, everything could be out of whack.
I had a Chevy van that I couldn’t keep good time on and brought it to someone to get the chain replaced. He told me there was plenty of life left in the timing chain. On the way home it cut out, so I put it in neutral and revved it up to clear it out and threw the chain. Cost me the price of a rebuilt motor, the over inflated charges he made and then more to check the valves because he didn’t do that when he took the heads of the motor he caused to get screwed up.
Please post when you do figure this out, as I’d like to know the answer for sure. I’m just going by a couple bad experiences.
How many miles and how did you determine the timing chain needed to be replaced?
Probably not related, but when the timing chain jumped on my Toyota pickup at 65 MPH, it was like someone dropped an anchor. Ran great till you hit a certain RPM then cut out big time. If it is cutting out at certain RPM/speed, the timing is probably off.
Rick
Had you jumped time before you replaced all the parts?
Did you have the head checked - all the valves, to see if any were bent. That could cause problems with valve seats.
The reasoning on us replacing the timing chain was due to the oil pump going out and spinning a rod bearing. We replaced the crank, oil pump, oil pressure switch, new timing chain and gears. Sense then, we have been trying to get the timing right. It's almost there!!!! Now we think it may have a main bearing loose and we're going to have to take all of this back off. What fun it should be, especially trying to get the timing back right.
If the timing chain is not correct, the distributor will not be correct.
If the timing chain is correct, possibly the distributor is not inserted correctly.
How many miles were on the motor before these problems started? Did you check the valves to see if they were bent or check the valve seats to see if they were worn? Also, did you use a new gasket for the intake?
Did you get smoke from the exhaust when you tried to keep it running.
If you list everything you've done, step by step it would be better to help you.
Coil Wires: No
Distributor Cap and Modulator: Yes
Rotor: Yes
Are any of the plug or coil wires touching metal or each other?
Don't touch the wires when trying to start or while the Blazer is running!
We do have another question, if the upper seal is leaking oil and getting into the lower intake, what kind of problems would you say this would cause, if any?
We just bought this truck a couple of months ago. We drove it for about 4 months after replacing 1 lifter the day we bought it. Never had a problem out of it until one day we decided to drive down the interstate to go see some friends and that's when we lost oil pressure and slung a rod.
The head has been checked and everything seemed fine in that area.
Thank you for all of your help and hopefully we can get this truck running again by the end of today. Knowing my husband he will have me all this thing all day long to make sure what we're doing seems like the right thing too do. I'll let you guys know.
None of the plugs or wires are touching each other or metal.
What else might it be??? God, I hope we get this truck running today.
As far as the oil in the lower intake, aside from a leak, I have no idea. It's been a long time since I got that far into a motor and I'm just trying to remember possible reasons. Does smoke come out of the exhaust when it runs?
Does it run at idle?