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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • boopster1970boopster1970 Member Posts: 1
    OMG!!! Wish we would have found this article a month and $$'s earlier. My husband was having the same exact issues with his 96 Jimmy. I told him about your aritcle and the solution. He went out unplugged the plug and presto everything works and no more blown fuses!! Thank you for all the help this has given us!!!!!
  • mfloreamflorea Member Posts: 5
    Did you find a solution to this problem? My 2001 blazer is doing exactly the same thing, except the right blinker doesn't work either.
  • fixitmanfixitman Member Posts: 2
    I had the same thing on my 2000 Jimmy. It turned out to be the multifunction switch on the steering column. It's the one that has the turn signal, cruise control, emergency flashers and high beam switches. It developed an internal short that not only caused the power to remain on, but also turned on the brake lights constantly. The switch is readily available but replacement is not so easy. Good luck.
  • mfloreamflorea Member Posts: 5
    Thank you. We will try that.
  • mfloreamflorea Member Posts: 5
    OK, the multifunction switch has fixed the problems. They do tell me that the right blinker is blinking too fast (this is the one that didn't work at all prior to the multifunction switch replacement). Thank you again for your help.
  • mfloreamflorea Member Posts: 5
    New problem now, when I turn on the blazer, sometimes the radio light, direction and temp light and dashboard lights work, sometimes they don't. Sometimes they will turn on after I've driven awhile. What could this be?
  • johnss10johnss10 Member Posts: 46
    My first guess would be a dying ignition switch. Do the lights come on when you turn the key on, but before you start? Do all the warning lights come on then, or just some of them? Do the gauges work properly all the time?
  • mfloreamflorea Member Posts: 5
    Just had the ignition switch replaced a few months ago, along with the multi-purpose switch. Yes all lights work before starting. Sometimes they work after starting, but about half the time. All the gauges are working correctly. Could it possibly be a short in the new ignition switch?
  • glentrsglentrs Member Posts: 1
    check out this site, new rockies.com, they have a security bypass module , they say is easy to install. readabout the issues and ill bet the TDM will be the cause of all these GMC starting and stalling issues.
  • truck_mdtruck_md Member Posts: 1
    Hello I saw your old post my son has a 96 GMC Jimmy that is having the same problem. I was curious if you ever figured it out? Thanks md
  • awkleesawklees Member Posts: 1
    I have a Kelsey hayes 310 on my 1995 chevy Cheyenne c3500hd truck but can't get the rear brakes to bleed how do I get the abs motor to engage and self bleed? I tried to use the dirt road method and it didn't work although I hear the motor engage and run for a few seconds each time I hit the brakes. Do you have any ideas? The garage wants $150.00 to bleed the brakes and I am not working....otherwise I would gladly pay that.
  • duntovduntov Member Posts: 133
    I have a 1991 S10 Blazer with the EBC4 ABS and the only way to bleed the brakes is to use a GM Tech 1 scan tool and cycle the modulator as you bleed it.Then bleed the brakes in the normal manner.

    I have never found a auto repair shop that still had a GM Tech 1 scan tool. I am sure repair shops use the "slam the brakes on a gravel road" method to bleed the ABS modulator. Did you ever wonder why repair shops will not let you watch them work on your car?

    The ABS brakes the later models is much improved over the first EBC4 4WAL brake system. Repair shops should have the correct tools to bleed those brakes.
  • evolk1evolk1 Member Posts: 11
    Any help on these issues is greatly appreciated! My wife drives it now and I'd like to take care of these issues before we give it to my daughter to drive. We replaced the transmission at 110k miles. It has 160k now.

    1.) lights behind the left-most 4 preset radio station buttons are out

    2.) Every time I get in or out of the car, there is a loud creaking / squeaking noise. I was told these are bushings most likely. Are those hard to replace or lubricate?

    3.) Right front door doesn't close correctly all the time. It looks like the door has a tendency to sag / droop below it's intended track / path, so it sometimes closes all the way, sometimes not. Of course, my daughter and wife's solutions for it are to slam the door harder.

    4.) 3 of the 4 speakers are blown. Anyone else have this problem? Daughter hates loud music, as does my wife. They seemed to go out when we had the intermittent turn signal buzzing problem a few years ago.

    5.) Discoloration of the front wheels...brake dust? How to fix that? or can it be fixed?

    6.) Any suggestions on a good replacement stereo and speakers? What type speakers does it require?

    Again, thanks much for the input!
  • johnss10johnss10 Member Posts: 46
    Hi;

    In order my suggestions are

    1. If your radio has the speed controlled volume (which I really like) I would find a junkyard replacement, could be cassette or cd.

    2. Squeaking could be a lot of things. I would check the ball joints first, since they are pretty prone to wearing. A front end alignment at a locally owned shop (not a chain) would rule them in or out. Some can be lubed and some cannot, ask the alignment shop.

    3. The right front door is probably a worn hinge or bushings. Open the door and look at the hinge at the front (upper and lower). If you caught it in time it will just need bushings. The parts are just a few dollars, but installing can be tricky the first time you do it. A body shop will probably charge an hour labor to do it for you. If the bushings are worn through into the hinge, then it needs new hinges, bigger issue. If the hinges on yours are bolt on, it's a doable fix, if they are welded on, it's a major deal.

    4. The front speakers are really small, like 2 inches. The door speakers are bigger, can get aftermarket replacements, but I would go with junkyard parts from the same as the radio above.

    5. If it is brake dust on the front wheels, a white-wall tire cleaner like bleach-whyte and a scrub brush will clean them. If not, hard to say.

    recognize that this is probably a $1500 vehicle, so I wouldn't spend a lot on fixing these items.
  • hurtc423hurtc423 Member Posts: 5
    I have a 93 GMC jimmy  but on my glovebox it says Sierra why is that and the guy I bought it from said that it has a 2.8 in it but everyone I look up says it's got the 4.3 how do I tell which one it is
  • hurtc423hurtc423 Member Posts: 5
    Ok I need help I have a 93 GMC jimmy 4x4 that has a Jasper 2.8l v6 in it I was driving down the road and it sputtered and died and would not start back until I sprayed some carburator choke in the carb held the gas to the floor cranked it and it fired up but even after I got it started it still sputters and trys to stall out 
  • hurtc423hurtc423 Member Posts: 5
    Yes I have a 93 GMC jimmy but it doesn't have the 4.3 in it it's got a Jasper 2.8 v6 I was driving down the road today and it started sputtering and then it died I checked everything the fire fuses fluids i even checked to see if it was getting fuel it was dark by that time so I couldn't really tell so I sprayed down the carburator with carburator choke spray and I got back in the Jimmy held the gas pedal to the floor and cranked it and it fired up but I had to keep revving it up to keep it from dying again what could be my problem
  • Blazer1__Blazer1__ Member Posts: 8
    rccrazybill said:
    I have a beautiful 1997 Gmc Jimmy which i have had for 7 years .The problem is it does not start at all. For the past few weeks as it was getting colder here it was taking longer and longer to turn over , but now it cranks and cranks until the battery goes dead. I put a new fuel pump in about a year ago and you can hear it pushing fuel while it cranks. I have it right now at a mechanic in town who after 5 hours still cannot get it to start??? he put a new cap / rotor ( they were carbon fouled so i guess it needed them ) and told me it's getting spark but it still will not start. The problem was getting worse with the cold weather but especially if i drove it in the rain. The last time it started i had to drive home in bad rain and even after being in the garage for a few days it will not start. The sad part is even with the hard starting for the past few weeks , once it started up it runs like new. Anyone who has any ideas I would appreciate it more then you could know. I will relay any answers to my Mechanic RcCrazyBill~ :sick:
    The gear connecting the distributor to the cam are notorious for going bad.  I had the same problem and solved it with a new distributor assembly.  
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