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GM has a serious problem with these turn signal switches and I would report any failures to
http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov
My Blazer has a problem most people will not detect but is very dangerous. If I use the lane change feature (push turn signal level to activate signal but not far enough to latch the signal on) one turn signal may not be operating. In other words, when I change lanes to the right, my dash indicator operates, the right front turn signal operates, but the rear turn signal is NOT operating!!!!! I have found this type of condition on many GM cars. The reason this happens is because GM uses a switch with many contacts in the steering column. As the switch ages some contacts start to "make" connection before the others. This can cause different things to happen. One of my friends has a 98 Yukon that in some lane changes the flasher module operates but no indicators light. In other words, when you hear the flasher module operating you are not guaranteed to have the turn signal illuminated. I would bet many GM car and trucks will have these type of problems when the switch ages enough (most likely out of warranty). The real problem is most people will not even know they have a very dangerous condition that my cause a serious accident.
I contacted GM with my concerns but my 99 Blazer has 38,000 miles and is out of warranty. GM gave me the usual, WE DON'T CARE, the truck is out of warranty and your problem.
I would not buy a GM Blazer/Jimmy, new or used. These trucks have poor overall quality and very poor offset crash test results. GM has not reached bottom yet. The engines and transmissions are excellent. The body build quality and just about everything else is junk. In the last year these parts have been replaced (under warranty), ball joints, idler arm, belt tensioner, battery, power steering pump, door hinge, radio, speaker, rear brake rotors, heater core. That is a lot of trips to the dealer. This list doesn't include driveline noises they could not fix.
Save time and money, pass on a Blazer / Jimmy. The question is will the new models be better? I think they will be better but still no match for a Toyota. I have a new Silverado that was just towed back to the dealer with 2000 miles on it. It is a much better truck then the Blazer but is "in no uncertain terms" the quality of a Toyota. Even though I want to buy American, I will buy the manufacture that builds excellent vehicles next time, sorry GM.
http://forums.vmag.com/suvblazer0199/messages/4596.html
Hope this helps.
I'll keep an eye out for the the problem you've seen with the non operating lights. The big one that I've seen and my father is experiencing is the engine knock/ping on the 1999 Blazer. It makes my turn signal problem seem like nothing!!!
Then I got the tipoff:
"I'd recommend it, the dealership is right here in town, which is great for WHEN you need service."
My answer to that was: "I have a Honda. I don't need service."
I think the same parallel generally applies to all American and Japanese car brands.
Is this a common problem? Will the new switch also fail?
Peter
2. The engine stalls in traffic and when shifting from R to D on an intermittant basis (never at the dealer).
Neither event ever sets a trouble code. Could they be related to the problem listed in #63?
Peter
brakes. It turns the casual stop into an adrenaline rush. The minute the tires sense a little different road surface...look out!. Still happens after two recalls and fixes. They OPERATE AS DESIGNED is their standard line. Yeah...designed to hit another car...or someone in a crosswalk. It's stupid and Chevy knows it! I no longer trust American made cars.
In addition...have you seen the crash tests? Pleeze! Put some pressure on Chevy to redesign this 'death trap' body style. It's not something you could LIVE with...gang. Chevy has lost its edge in the SUV market...big time! Too bad too. Don't buy one... Admittedly they've got some neat bells and whistles...but it's only mirage.
I'm trading this one...and it will be a beautiful looking truck. Clean...just like new. Uh huh...and I won't personally sell it...WHY? I don't want the "guilt complex" for the people who buy it. I won't even let my kids drive this thing.
I am thinking of trading my in because of the brake situation.
I must admit after going through the recalls it ran very good. But there is a problem with the brakes and the brakes wear out extreamly fast.
Obviously, as previously posted, our trucks are kindred spirits. I'm trading mine in on an MDX. Worries are almost over for me. It's a shame...the kids are having a fit because it's clean and looks showroom new. And...I'm taking a bath on the trade because I won't sell it to anyone. I'm delivering all the paperwork/repairwork...let someone else figure it out. I think it should be salvaged for parts. Anything but "brake" parts, that is.
Three months after I got it, I wrote a letter to Chevy. My response? A $2,500 credit on another one. They're putting families in danger and don't even care. The crash ratings are horrible, it's a shame. I'm forever done with american made cars.
You then state you have purchased a MDX which has a base price of $34,320 (Cheapest Model), is in its first year of production, and is made in Canada. Does this make any sense? First you compare a low end SUV (Chevy)to a very high end SUV in price and manufacturer. You then state you want reliability, but buy a first year production vehicle, and from a manufacturer that doesn't have a history of making SUV's, and you buy the SUV which uses the same labor pool i.e. North American (USA & Canada) that GM uses.
If you were really interested in purchasing a SUV which had a highly rated history, wouldn't a Toyota 4 Runner or a Nissan Pathfinder have been the logical choice, and both of these SUV's are less expensive than the MDX. I haven't investigated where the Toyota or Nissan are made, but they have been around for years. (I know Honda makes the CRV, but Honda hardly is known for off setting the standards for road vehicles or even SUV's.)
I suspect a personal grudge had more of an influence in your purchase of the MDX rather than logic, for your requirements don't match your decision.
Hi. My decision to purchase the Blazer in 95 was because I did not want a van and did want to be "higher up' for safety...etc. Cost was not much of a factor. In 1995 Chevy Blazer had the best (touring) suspension (SUV-wise); topping even Toyota. Everything comparable at that time was very truck-like and I hated the ride. When I got the Blazer...I loaded it with 3k in after market toys. I'd planned to drive it 10 years. What happened?
After my purchase...within a few months...I noticed the brake issue. I took it to the dealer...complained...found an area where the anti-lock/anti-stop worked every time...and took the service manager there...for a test drive. They knew...I knew...and I got hot on GM's trail. After an unusual amount of persistence...I found out that THEY KNEW about the potential problem and "fixes" were already in the works. I don't know how many intersections with a Blazer full of kids that I nearly flew through because of those brakes...but it was several. Two recalls later...the problem still exists during certain road conditions. Conditional brakes are not OK. 'nuff said.
My decision to look at alternatives was strictly because the Chevy Blazer brakes were dangerous but I delayed my immediate search for another SUV because they all rode like trucks. So...I learned which conditions would provoke the brake defect...and which were safer...and drove it accordingly. Hoping that somebody would not violently stop or pull out and cause an emergency braking situation on anything other that the perfectly smooth road surface.
Before I began looking for a replacement and because the suspension is a hot button for me...I knew which SUV's tended to ride like a truck...and the ones which were more car-like. Since '95 many have joined the SUV market. Your auto suggestions are great...but the suspension and other amenities do not compare to the MDX.
Price was not much of a factor in my decision...so I was not locked into the Blazer's price range. I do believe a loaded Blazer will run right around 32K. My loaded MDX is just under 40K.
The decision to buy "first year" is again based on trust and the fact that once you drive the MDX...little compares. In addition, Acura has a decent track record. I looked at BMW...MBZ...Lexus. Lexus was closest to the MDX ride. The others, no matter what the cost, were still too truck-like.
People will continue to purchase Blazers and I think you should explore all avenues. I also think you should check out the MDX because it is the definition of "common sense".
Thank you
I had developed a oil leak, and had one oil cooler line (P/N 15726903) and two seals (P/N 15701719) replaced in April '00, @ 34,409 miles.
Well, last week I noticed oil spots on the garage floor... guess what? Same area, and as I found out today, the oil cooler lines are leaking again!!! (When I brought it in, I made a prediction to the service advisor that it was probably another oil line leak, and he rolled his eyes...) The truck now has 46,600 miles on it. Although I have a third party 6 yr./60K extended warranty through LIBERTY NATIONAL WARRANTY CORP, Miami, Fl, which was sold by the Oldsmobile finance guy as "supposedly" bumper-to-bumper, the warranty company does NOT cover it. Why? Because it is a rubber hose. Hah! Since when are oil cooler lines a normal maintenance item??? I can see radiator hoses being a normal wear item, but not oil cooler lines. If that's so, then do I need to worry about the high-pressure rubber fuel lines, too?
But I digress... I am waiting for the oil cooler lines, as well, as they are on "national backorder". I was told they would be in stock in one week... hmmm, is my service advisor a little optimistic???
Well, at least with this repair, I have at least equalled the amount spent on the warranty coverage to the amount of service work done... that's not saying much for the reliability of this vehicle. Too bad, because I am overall satisfied with the comfort and ride of the Bravada.
I haven't had an issue with the transmission. Have you changed the fluid yet? The poor design of the dipstick & tube allows water into the tranny internals, causing rust to form on the dipstick. I believe contaminated fluid has shortened the life of many S-truck transmissions.
A Service Bulletin exists that uses a different dipstick and tube. I had this SB completed around 30K miles, and have not had any tranny problems. I change the fluid at least every 30K miles, sometimes 15K miles depending on conditions.
Back to pinging. Maybe a different heat range for the spark plug or some aftermarket computer chip for the control module. I am going to try a independent garage for a second opinion. Anyones HELP would be appreciated.
It sounds like you have a very dangerous lack of braking. But apparently not enough to look into pulling a fuse to disable the anti-lock controller.
I don't know the fuse specifics for a 95 Blazer, but they were pullling fuses on mid 90's chevy cabs to disable the anti-lock brakes.
Thought of that...but was told there is no fuse in this 95. Also...there can be some question as to equipment issues in the event of a wreck. Insurance companies are all over that kind of stuff and routinely look for modifications. If they're not used as designed...you can cause yourself some problems.
But...thanks for the tip!
RE: Gas tank issues
My 95 Blazer has the same size tank. I had problems with the car cutting out when the gauge just hit the orange section. I noticed that if I went up a small hill (tipping the vehicle slightly) the engine would sometimes cut out and found myself sputtering into the gas station. On level ground, you can usually restart it and drive it level...to the gas station. I never thought the gauge was properly synced with the "floater/or whatever" in the tank. Or, it's possible that the tank itself is shaped in such a way that it doesn't ever efficiently use that last gallon.
We live in hilly terrain so, I try to avoid letting it go below a quarter tank. You are probably aware of how FAST that last half tank of gas goes! I don't think I've ever received a receipt with more than a 17gal fill.
But I am going to sell it to whoever wants it ..buyer b ware...aunty lock brakes recently let me down in a snow storm and I slid into a slip and fall dude. I wasn't even goin fast, now he has a sore neck and there was not even damage on his vehicle.
I have driven like an ole lady for sex years bcause of this wreck and now I am still b hind duh dark ball.
What to drive next.. Who knows what's lurking out there...
I talk about how the American auto makers are completely failing compared to Foreign auto makers in the last 5 years. When I say "American" I mean American companies (the 'big 3'), many "Foreign" companies make their cars here in the U.S. but don't seem to have the same quality design and manufacturing problems. Toyota, Honda and Subaru are all making quality vehicles using U.S. labor, why can't GM, Chrysler, and Ford?
The big difference is that the Big 3 use UAW labor and the others don't. If you have to pay a line worker with barely a high school education $20 to $30 an hour, then you have to cut corners in other areas to keep the price of the car competitive with the "foreign" cars. Simple economic fact.
Maybe the aftermarket needs to take notice and design a custom set of oil lines for the 4.3 S-trucks???
Thanks,
Brandon Morgan
So its probably the encoder?
I'll let you know what happens next.