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Comments
Tom
A rattle can also be ball joints, too.
Since everyone is talking vibration at highway speeds, I'll throw in rear wheel bearing problems, too. At around 46K miles, my dealership found one bearing was bad. And it was unusual because it didn't make an appreciatible amount of noise, either. Strange...
All I can say is WOW! I am surprised with the problems people are having. I am so happy to have been spared at least most of above owners' grief!
I have owned three of these midsize GM S10/15-based SUV's- -the first was a brand new '87 S10 Blazer 2dr, replaced by a new '92 GMC Jimmy 4dr, which was then replaced with the '96 4dr. All were 4x4's; the '87 had a 2.8 V6/5sp manual drivetrain, while the later two had the 4.3 V6/4sp auto setup.
I put a combined total of 450,000 miles on these three rigs, with that total pretty much evenly split among them. As I recall, on the '87 I replaced the clutch once, and on the '92 I had one of the engine valve seals replaced under warranty (exhaust smoke on startup @ 30k miles- -cured). On the '96, I replaced the ball joints at 60K miles, and their Moog replacements were still tight at trade-in/150k miles. Oh yes, there were a few minor things...like having to shim up the rattling door panels on the '92, and dealing with the typical squeaking back hatch glass. But those problems were cured easily with the aformentioned shims (for the '92) and a one time shot of vaseline for the back glass latch (for all three). Following those fixes, all three rigs were solid and tight with no interior noises, even after 150,000 miles apiece and occasional off roading. But beyond the above issues, and the usual replacement of tires, shocks, etc, these vehicles were fantastic! The 4.3 engines provided good power and gas mileage, and the '96 ('95 redesign) was better in almost every way, with one memorable exception, than the earlier design. The exception was turning radius. My '87 and '92 could turn on a dime; the '96 was relatively disappointing.
Oh, I also have a '97 S10 4.3/auto pickup with 100,000 miles and no rattles to be found. And it continues to serve well on our farm.
Anyway, just thought I would relate my experience, too! Very interesting thread!
Tom
Today I was checking level, and it still has some sludgy junk (not much) floating around in reservoir. I was just hoping someone could tell me what this is and why it's there. I've not seen anything like this before.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks, David.
The door pins need to be greased at every oil change or they will fail too. I think water from the windshield runs directly on the door pins and washes away the grease. I had to have the drivers side upper hinge replaced at 30k miles at GMs expense. I keep them well greased now.
I filled every inside panel with foam to prevent rattles. I think this is one of the worst cars I ever purchased. I am not sure what GM was thinking when they made these POS. Every time I hear GM market share goes down I laugh. It seems GMs poor engineering is catching up with them.
1) First of all, abc246 - What kind of foam did you use and do the door panels just pop off? Also, is there a special way to "grease" the door hinges or just plain old WD40? Any other suggestions for interior door noises?
2) I have now started to hear the famous gurgling from the dash. I have had the radiator flushed at Canadian Tire but the gurgling is still there. I have lots of heat and the temp gauge is under 100. In a previous post, a member said that he flushed the heater core with a garden hose. How do you do that? Someone else said that they flushed out the hose from the resevoir tank. Whats involved with that?
3) In some other posts, it was said that the radiator cap should be replaced to prevent air from being sucked in. Any certain kind? Were year 2000s affected?
4) Totally off topic...anybody have any views on products like Duralube or Z-Max?
Besides the interior creaks and the new gurgling noise, everything so far has been fine. Is there anything I should be checking now or changing (fluids, plugs, etc) that could save me some headaches in the future?
Sorry so long!! Thanks in advance!!
For oil on the door pins I use (and go overboard) 90W gear oil and then grease to keep the oil on the pins.
As far as the foam, I used triple expanding Tuff Stuff Foam. You can get it at places like Home Depot. With this foam it is almost impossible to remove a panel, so be careful. I used it in all door panels and behind all cargo panels including the tailgate. It is Lexus like now!
My 97 Blazer (70K miles) shudders at about 30MPH and again at about 65MPH. The wheel doesn't shake, as if the rotors were bent; the body just seems to vibrate a bit at those speeds. It needed an alignment anyway...got one...but it didn't fix the problem one bit. I probably need new shocks, but I can't believe that shocks would be the culprit here. I suspect a hub replacement is in my near future but wanted to get some feedback before I turn down "expensive highway".
Any words of wisdom out there?
Dave
Also, I noticed when looking at my ball joints that my upper control arm on the driver's side was banged up, and I heard that thumping from that wheel well, but only when I turned the wheel all the way to the left in a tight turn. I figured out it was the wheel balancing weights on the inside of the rim catching. The tolerances are just a little too tight for a 15" rim when it is turned all the way. I wonder if that is why a lot of the newer ones seem to sport 16 or 17's. Oh well.
Steve, Host
...or maybe it's just my sluething skills....
I think replacing the ball joints helped for somebody. Replacing the upper and lower ball joints did not help me.
Post the question ever couple of months because you never know if someone will find the answer that helps you.
You will find a lot of helpful info in the thread. But if you read the whole thing, like I did, then you'll probably want to sell the piece 'o crap.
I've been told that my vibration problem (at 60-65 MPH) might be attributed to bad transmission mounts. Could it be true? I've read how nearly every part under the chassis has been replaced, with no luck...could the transmission mount be the culprit?
We just got back from vacation and had rented a 4WD Jeep Laredo, and it most certainly DID NOT vibrate at highway speeds.
I agree with the one guy who said he traded in his Blazer (or as described it "this washing machine"), as to the normality for the vibrations in this vehicle. I do not think it is normal; however, I do not think that any of the dealers know how to fix it either. To all of you out there with the same problem..... Good luck and let the rest of us know if you find the fix to the problems. Take Care! God Bless!
Highway shudder starts at different speeds in the upper 60's to lower 70's. Seems to start at different speeds depending on the temperature outside. Nevertheless, intensity increases with speed. Still no solution.
New Problem:
Vehicle intermittently stalls when at very low speed or shifting into reverse. Sometimes shuts down while at speed, then resumes running after a split second. Until recently, vehicle would start right up with a quick turn of the key. Now sometimes you have to crank a couple times before starting. Is this the IGNITION MODULE?
Thanks, and good luck with the "shudder". Let me know if the tranny mounts help!
As for the vibration, I had a problem too at 65-70 mph. It started after I bought replacement tires for the Michelin XW4s (went to CrossTerrains). My latest attempt was to have a force balance completed on the tire/rim. The mounted tire is spun on rollers, to simulate the load from the vehicle. I also found out a U-joint in the front driveshaft was bad. Much happier now.
Incidentally, the lower and upper ball joints were recalled for the '97 models (did you mention a year?), as those living in the Rust Belt could have instances of ball joint separation. My uppers/lowers/pitman arm, and idler arm were all replaced at around 46K miles, when I developed a popping noise during left turns at 20-30 mph. Do yourself a favor... keep the suspension lubed. I would not go longer than 6 months between lube jobs. I think there is at least 10 places to address. This can be a vibration area, as well.
Battery terminals are clean and tight. Also, EGR, fuel pump, and fuel filter were all recently replaced and are still good.
I'll look into the u-joint and force balance fixes. I also have had the ball joints (not covered-wrong VIN) and idler arm replaced. Need to investigate pitman arm. I recently did the transfer case, differentials, and a full brake job and hit all of those lube points. They looked pretty good.
I'm curious. Just how far off was it and how did you determine it was off?
tidester, host
Polymas - My 2000 Blazer stalled once in reverse, while the weather was cooler outside, however, has not done it since.
I remember reading somewhere in this post, two things that might cause the stalling:
One was the ignition switch which supposedly would not show a trouble code.
The other was an oxgen sensor.
My local dealer also told me that they have a lot of trouble with the EGR valves in the newer models and sometimes get bad ones even when replaced as. Apparently they get clogged up quite easily and the dealer has to clean them out or replace them. The EGR will show a trouble code even after a light goes on then shuts off. An EGR valve can be quite difficult to diagnose, as it will cause a vehicle to run great for a while, then out of the blue will create problems while it is idling, or driving at highway speeds.
Might want to have your dealer re -check the EGR and make sure it is functioning properly.
Take Care! God Bless!
Based on other messages, I am now a member of a not so exclusive club.
I've driven GM vehicles since 1976. This is the first major problem.
Any advice would be appritiated.
Joe