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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

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  • bcarter3bcarter3 Posts: 145
    While changing the A/C accumulator on my wife's 96 Blazer I noticed pieces of the evaporator housing had broken out. When I touched the area more pieces fell off. The entire housing is brittle and falling apart. No one other than myself has ever worked on this vehicle and no chemicals have been used in the engine compartment that would contribute to the condition. The engine has never been washed. The vehicle is garaged and only has 60,000 miles. The housing is only about $100 but I'll probably replace the evaporator at the same time.
       Last week I replaced the right wheel speed sensor for an anti-lock failure. The left one failed last November. The dealer had them in stock both times. Could it be that there is a problem with them????
       My wife keeps her Blazer immaculate and really likes it so I guess I'll keep fixing it. Beats payments!!!
  • cage47cage47 Posts: 17
    The only thing is that I bought mine used, an off-lease unit. Will this affect their willingness to replace the board? Is there anything online I can download (like the TSB) that I can show the sales/or service guy about this? If I can get them to replace it I'd be jazzed. I basically pleased with my blazer.
  • canddmeyercanddmeyer Posts: 384
    Just noticed one thing. The recall stops with 1997 vehicles. You'll probably have to pay for it on your '98. I received a letter in February 2003 referred to as a campaign, not a recall. The campaign# is C02054 for replacement the windshield wiper motor controller circuit board if I had experienced wipers that worked intermittently or not at all. I had this trouble, which the dealer took care of in about 10 minutes. The letter does not state you have to be an original owner, but rather just the owner. The letter states that owners will get special warranty coverage within 7 years of the date the vehicile was originally placed into service or 70,000 miles, whichever occurs first, OR, for vehicles currently outside of this coverage, until February 2004. The condition will be repaired at no charge & must be performed by a Chevrolet dealer. Any ?'s contact your dealer or Chevrolet at 1-800-222-1020. If I had a scanner I'd post it. Later this turned into a recall. Fyi - my 1997 Blazer also known as an S-10.

    You can always complain to the NHTSA. You might be reimbursed down the road if enuf folks have the same issue. Changing it takes 5 minutes. Its a circuit board on the back of your wiper motor. Easy to do. When I replaced the same part on my '91 K10 is cost $60. Probably not much more now. You can try the dealer anyway as GM may know more than is publicly known.

    http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/recalls/recallsearch.c- - - - - - - - - - - fm

    NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number : 03V159000 Recall Date : APR 28, 2003
  • canddmeyercanddmeyer Posts: 384
    The NHTSA link I posted is strictly for recalls. You can also see "complaints" on that website by clicking on it & inputting your vehicle info. You can also go to Chevrolet.com owners link at

    http://www.chevrolet.com/gmnav/owners/index.html

    & register your vehicle there. This might get you on a mailing list for any current &/or future problems.
  • cage47cage47 Posts: 17
    Yeah, that's what I thought. I've seen the NHTSA site and couldn't find anything for the '98. I priced the whole motor and mine is $78. Gonna take a look at the circuit tonight. I read in here that someone fixed theirs by resoldering the connections. If that's all it is I can fix that. Funny thing, my dad has a Geo Prism and it has the same problem I asked him to look at the motor and it has a similar looking motor. Maybe a bigger problem for GM. with such an easy fix why couldn't they just include all vehicles (rhetorical)?
  • pbr1pbr1 Posts: 3
    When I first noticed the problem the reading was off by 10 or 20 degrees based upon the radio temperature or the temperature posted by a local bank. When the temperatuer is 60 or so and the gauge is reading 80 its pretty obvious that something is wrong. The gauge is now reading well over a 120 degrees.
  • dale3n8dale3n8 Posts: 3
    I just bought a 99 Jimmy with 58,000 miles on it. When you mash the gas pedal, the thing takes off, but there is a bad vibration/shudder that shakes the mirrors. It just seems like it is not getting the power to the ground, like there is something slipping somewhere. It has been back to the dealer several times, where they claim to have replaced the driveshaft, run the engine on the computer, put injector cleaner in it, with no luck. To me this is in the tranny or the transfer case. Please help! I'm getting near the end of the used car warrantee and this thing still isn't fixed.
  • 1choice1choice Posts: 20
    Many of us have experienced the same problem you have and have made several trips to our dealer, all to no avail. Mine does the the same thing both taking off on a hard acceleration and while at highway speeds has a shudder coming out of the transfer case/tranny area. We have all hoped for solutions and gotten none. My dealer told me that what I felt was normal for a 4 wheel drive Blazer.
    If you find a solution at your dealer, let the rest of us know.
    So far most of us have given up and just decided to keep driving the vehicle or like peterson33 said, he traded in his "washing Machine" (Blazer/Jimmy) for something better. That so far seems to be the only solution.
  • spoomspoom Posts: 85
    cage47-Have you talked to your dealer about the wiper being covered under the Service Bulletin? It's possible that they can work something out. If your condition is bad enough to happen often there is an easy test. When the wipers are refusing to come on there will usually be a buzzing noise coming from the wiper motor area. Leave the wipers turned on and raise the hood as gently as you can to avoid jarring anything. Press gently on the connector where the wiring harness plugs into the wiper motor assy and see if you can get the wipers to go on/off by pressure in different directions. If so it is probably the board. The pressure on the connector is flexing the PC board and making the intermittant connection. It lead many folks (and dealers) to suspect a bad pin/socket in the connector at first, and much time and $ was wasted before it became common knowledge of the board problem.
  • fenndfennd Posts: 10
    I've read many posts about the vibration in Blazer/Jimmy models and am leary about being sucked into the void of never-ending parts replacement in fear of not solving the problem.

    Unless I didn't do a good search, I didn't read anything about the transfer case itself. Could this be it? Also, has anyone heard of "Grand Am G/T multi-mile" tires? I bought my Blazer used (it didn't vibrate then) and these tires were on it. They've been rotated and re-balanced, but the shake is still there. Could these tires just be junk? A Google search yielded no reviews for the tire.
  • cage47cage47 Posts: 17
    Thanks. The last time it did it was three days ago in a light rain. I left work and the wipers were non-working right from the get go. I pulled under an overpass and popped the hood. All it took was to touch the connector and with a definite "click" the wipers engaged. They worked fine the rest of the way home and again last night. But I haven't had them on constant. Only the 4th click up the delay settings. But since the truck was running I couldn't hear a buzzing. I'm going to take the motor off this weekend and look at the board myself to see if it's something I can tinker with. If it's a simple solder I can get that. But after that I'll check with the dealer. Of course I had a new glitch yesterday. The passenger window motor jammed. When I hit the button I could hear it draw on the engine. I had to pull the panel off and give it a tap with a screw driver to get it to move. That one is annoying. I thought it was the switch at first. My old grand am had a switch on the passenger side that the electrical connector broke. The actual contacts. I was hoping a slam of the door would jar it but no good. I had to take the panel right off.
  • 1choice1choice Posts: 20
    I could be your tires, however, most of us have been down that road also. I am on my 3rd set of tires, which was supposed to cure the problem.

    There is a Technical Service bulletin at Alldata.com (at least there is for my 2000 Blazer) that specifically addresses a transfer case shudder and according to the bulletin the shudder will also cause premature clutch wear.

    There are two bulletins that talk about the transfer case shudder, with two different tests that the dealer can perform to see if there is a problem.
    My dealer performed them and said that everything read normal.

    However, over the duration of the shudder, it has now advanced to a more noticeable shudder upon starting off from a stop and even seems to be slow in responding while shifting from 1st to 2nd gears.

    If you find the problem let the rest of us know. We all would love to have the cure for the shudders!!!!

    Take Care! God BLess!
  • chstr1000chstr1000 Posts: 32
    I have a 99 Blazer LT 4x4. I do my own maintenance. Today I changed oil and greased it. Just wondering if the eight grease fittings on the front are all there are... Also I have never run synthetic oil before, but opted to run Castrol Syntec 5W-30. I figure since I need to keep this rig a while, it couldn't hurt.
    Any answers or comments will be appreciated.

    Thanks, David
  • 1choice1choice Posts: 20
    Yes, the ones in the front are all you get. At least you have eight. In the newer ones (2000), there are only 6. Most of all the parts on the newer models have sealed parts. That includes the U-joints, which you used to be able to grease. Hope that helps you. Take Care! God Bless!
  • fenndfennd Posts: 10
    Boy, I hope this is just a switch somewhere...

    The truck fails to engage 4WD at any time, be it in park, drive, neutral, reverse, or vertical. The 4WD (hi and lo) buttons briefly illuminate while I have them pressed in, but quickly fade to darkness and without engaging the 4WD. I took the dash switch apart and noticed a simple circuit board and 3 lamps. In my examination, I noticed the 2HI bulb is blown. Would this matter? Does the bulb complete a circuit necessary to engage the 4WD?

    There hasn't been a cheap fix yet with this truck...I'M DUE!
  • alahirialahiri Posts: 17
    I bought it new. Now it has 55K miles on it. Here are my observations:

    (1) The truck has been very reliable. It has failed just twice: (1) at 22K transmission leak was repaired under warranty (2) at 47K the shorted alternator and dead battery needed replacement, fuel line needed to be cleaned. $600. The funny thing is that on both occasions I could drive to the dealer! There were also some minor rattling issues, some were taken care of under warranty.

    (2) Gas Mileage is improving since I switched to Castrol (If you go to Sears for oil change, your blazer will also get this super engine oil). I am now getting 19 - 21 mpg with a/c on, 20 - 23 mpg with a/c off. I used to use 87 grade. Recently I have switched to 89 grade --- mileage has not changed. Officially, 4.3L V6 is rated at 16 - 20 mpg. Probably, Goodwrench oil has some problems.

    (3) Shudder/ Vibrations at speed --- I experienced this once (at 48K miles). But after I got my wheel alignment done, the problem went away. $55.

    I am happy. I know that this not the best SUV available. But I love this vehicle a lot --- the victory red color and deep-tinted windows look just cool, the 6 speaker AM/FM/CD is excellent, the huge heated side mirrors are too good, equally good is the lovely driver's seat equipped with lumber support, external temperature & direction display is very handy, more handy are the rear seats that fold flat creating huge room for cargo (good for carrying 6ft tall bookshelf from Office Depot or 27" TV from Best Buy!), the 4WD helps on snow (I live in Rochester, NY). Guess what --- I still have plenty of life left on my original tires and brakes.

    I wish that GM stops 0% deals that really drives the resale value very low, and improves the quality of interior components. People spending $25K on a Blazer deserve more than those spending $13K on a Cavalier.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,109
    I live in Rochester, NY

    Rochester IS the pothole capital of the WORLD! You'll need a sturdy vehicle there.

    tidester, host
  • jdfrmkyjdfrmky Posts: 15
    My Blazer is a '99 with 85k miles bought new.Very few of those miles off road and needing 4wd.I discovered this site a few months ago and the problems I've had have all been discussed,the ones I've not had yet are waiting in the wings I suppose,probably the coolant woes(smell of anti-freeze prevades the vehicle lately.Lower ball joints,left hub assembly,transmission and oil cooler lines,replacement batteries (4).All service done by dealer(my bro.in law)all service expensive.Whew what an education i've gotten from this site.Thanks to all for providing this wealth of information.
  • Thanks for the info. Just wanted to be sure I wasn't missing any.
  • Hi. I just bought a 1998 Blazer 2wd 2dr. Both seat reclining handles are broken. The seats are in a pretty good position but, if it doesn't break the bank, I'd like to get them fixed. I did a search and found some who had had the same problem but I found no info on cost of repair. Would needle nose pliers or vise grips let me adjust the seat angle? Was there a recall maybe?Thanks in advance.
  • cage47cage47 Posts: 17
    Man, whoever does the soldering for those printed circuit boards would have failed circuit board design at Rochester Institute of Tech. Those are some of the sloppiest solder joints I've seen since I helped my friends in lab. I could see that mine weren't too bad. Probably why my wipers quitting wasn't as bad as others have described. But it really is easy to fix, if you know how to solder. All you need to do is take out three small hex-screws from the black cover on the motor. Unplug the wire connector and pry out the circuit board straight out. It is only connected inside by 3 prongs that push in right next to the wire connector socket. And two pressure tongs in the center. After checking another sight I also kept and eye out for a burned out circuit. And sure enough, about one inch up along the edge next to the three prongs there was one less than a quarter inch long that looked partially burned out. I used a piece of stripped telephone cord wire and made a new circuit to another solder joint right next to it that made the connection. Now with it as dry as it is here in texas right ow it'll be a while before I can give the wipers a good test. But one thing I did notice. That since making those quick (5 minutes) fix the wipers go all the way to the bottom at the end of the swipe and stay there. Before they used to go down and come back up 1-2 inches. Now they stay. And all settings seem to run at correct speeds. Especially continuous slow, which was the worst speed for cutting out. Saves a $200 dealer repair or an $80 motor replacement on my own.
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,625
    Nice work, Cage47.

    Steve, Host

    Moderator
    Minivan fan. Feel free to message or email me - stever@edmunds.com.

  • Well, I thought the blazer I was planning to buy tomorrow-was just a different feel-since I'm currently driving a 2001 Saturn L200 sedan. But I have driven 3 new(Blazer) & 1 used(GMC) & thought I felt "SOMETHING" but wasn't sure what it could be with these being new vehicles still on the lot. Now, I'm definitely having second thoughts-anyone heard of this on brand new 2003 models? And for some advice...would I have to constantly take it back to that specific dealer? If under warranty any problem coudl be repaired at other Chevy dealer? (not conveniently located for me is why I'm asking) Thanks to everyone-for any help/advice you can offer!
  • palmoyaspalmoyas Posts: 14
    New one!
    About every two or three times I try to start the Blazer I turn the key to the starting position and none of the dash lights will light up. Of course when this happens the truck will not start. It turns over great but will not start.
    Sometimes I can turn it back in the off position and then back, everything lights up, it starts, and I'm good to go.
    Other times I really have to mess with the ignition turning it back and forth before it will "catch" and start.
    Anyone have a diagnosis?
    Thanks in advance!
  • canddmeyercanddmeyer Posts: 384
    I'd suspect the ignition switch. Could be lots of things, but the ignition switch is my best guess,
  • alahirialahiri Posts: 17
    Too many potholes ... more than my 55000 mile old Blazer can take. Last winter has been brutal, snow-cleaning has resulted in millions of potholes and cracks.

    Bye the way, I remember getting a broken recliner replaced under warranty. It costs $100 (labor+parts) at a Chevy dealer. I am not sure if the recliner broke because it was not strong enough or it broke because my friend applied too much strength in a wrong direction :-) Anyway, I paid nothing.
  • spoomspoom Posts: 85
    a while back in this thread there was discussion about driver door fires from the lock/window/mirror assy. I see that it finally went to the recall stage so if you haven't had the update here is the info:
    General Motors Corporation Models: Chevrolet Blazer Year: 1997 GMC Jimmy Year: 1997 Chevrolet Astro Year: 1998 GMC Safari Year: 1998 Chevrolet C/K Series Year: 1998 GMC C/K Series Year: 1998 Chevrolet Suburban Year: 1997-1998 GMC Suburban Year: 1997-1998 Number Potentially Involved: 507,171 Dates of Manufacture: March 1996 ? May 1998 Defect: Under certain conditions, some sport utility vehicles, mini vans, and pickup trucks, may develop a short circuit in the electric outside rearview mirror switch. If this happens, it could result in an inoperative switch, heat damage to the driver?s door, and/or ignition of components in the driver?s door and a subsequent vehicle fire without prior warning. Remedy: Dealers will install a fused jumper harness to the electric outside rearview mirror switch. The manufacturer has reported that owner notification is expected to begin during April 2003. Owners may contact Chevrolet at 1-800-222-1020, or GMC at 1-800-462-8782.

    [NHTSA Recall No. 03V093/GM Recall No. 03006]
  • houcwbhoucwb Posts: 1
    Previously posted:
    Hi. I just bought a 1998 Blazer 2wd 2dr. Both seat reclining handles are broken. The seats are in a pretty good position but, if it doesn't break the bank, I'd like to get them fixed. I did a search and found some who had had the same problem but I found no info on cost of repair. Would needle nose pliers or vise grips let me adjust the seat angle? Was there a recall maybe?
    ------------------------------------------------
    Good luck!!....I have the same problem in my 99 Blazer...both handles broke after the 36K warranty ran out....the screws they used are too short and put too much stress on the cheap shafts..(almost looks like they used Peuter!!)
    I think replacement is about $300 per seat...all for a 10cent piece of metal they didnt want to spend 25cents on...and the right screw (which is detailed in a TSB put out...but no recall!)

    My 89 Blazer outclassed my current 99 Blazer:
    the AC in the older one was better (R12 of course), the mileage was better (24-25 on the highway instead of MAYBE 20! This is progress? thanks to the pitiful ratio they put in for trailering...WHO needs that all the time???),
    the front hub bearings you have to replace entirely...(unlike the 89 where you could repack them easily)...and Chevy wants $475 PER TIRE + LABOR to change them...I can get the parts at HiLO for $170 each tire but then I have to find someone who can press them together...what a rip!!!

    This is the last GM SUV I buy....time to go to Toyota or Mitsi.....no more GM products in my driveway....for 30+ years I have bought American made products...but no more.

    C
  • abc246abc246 Posts: 305
    I read today that Ford is recalling the Explorer for just 2 customer complaints on the seat reclining bolt breaking. We need to complain to NHTSA and GM. We know GM will not do anything about it, but let them know what we think of this American designed and made POS. I would think that the recliner handle would be a safety problem. If the handle breaks when the seat is in a reclined position it could cause more injuries or even make it unsafe for the driver. It is a safety issue and lets get them to recall it. I have one broken too right now.

    http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/

    is the site to file a complaint. There on 12 complaints on this problem now for the 99 alone. Lets all complain and see if they will fix this problem. GM needs some "help" in providing customer assistance.
  • cage47cage47 Posts: 17
    Well I pulled that board for the wiper motor out and reheated the solder joint and fixed that one burnt circuit. Took until today to get a good rain to test the wipers on. On the way to the store I checked all settings. No quitting whatsoever. Even on the continuous low setting, which was the worst in my wipers.
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